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  1. #1
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    Anyone Here Using TRP HYRD's?

    I saw a few comments, but no feedback on anyone that is actually using them?

    Thinking of buying a set rather than waiting form my Shimano CX 75 recall replacement.
    Are we putting air in the tires today?

  2. #2
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    i have them on my new race bike. i've had the bike for 2 weeks and have done a few singletrack rides, lots of fire road climbing and descending, lots of road miles and 2 CX races so far....all in dry conditions.

    they work well for me and have a good feel at the lever. pads seems to be wearing well with my 210 lbs. a buddy of mine has the force hydraulic and i personally didn't like the mushy feel, but it could be his setup.

    they are plenty strong. i can be on the hoods all race/ride except for the really steep/techy descents. i'm still getting used to braking later and later into corners but it's coming along.

  3. #3
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    I just installed these today and noticed that the rear brake has quite a bit longer lever throw than the front, I'm running gore housing with I assume is mid level quality, I plan to upgrade to yokozuna compressionless full length housing for both front and rear. Anyone have luck with any other housing brands or have similar issues with a longer throw out back? Maybe the rear needs a bleed? The front performs flawlessly and has a perfect lever throw.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by alias33 View Post
    I plan to upgrade to yokozuna compression-less full length housing for both front and rear. Anyone have luck with any other housing brands or have similar issues with a longer throw out back?
    I used Yokozuna on a Raleigh RXC Pro disc and found the cable action very nice compared to Gore RideOn Professional and sealed low-friction. The drawback I found was that the stiffness of the cable housing made it difficult to make the bend from the exit point on the rear stay to the caliper (Shimano CX75) which resulted in a stiffer lever throw for the rear. I took a suggestion on another thread about mechanical disc brakes and started using a hybrid cable system essentially replicating the Gore Ride-On using Jagwire Racer cable kits coupled with Jagwire L3 brake cable liners with the advantage that these cables don't have the teflon coating that flakes off with the Gore cables. Our current builds use the new Shimano 9000 PTFE cables with the Jagwire L3 liners which I think works as good or better than the hybrid Jagwire cables - just not as many color choices.

  5. #5
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    I've also noticed the stiffer lever action from my rear brakes on my trek madone road bike and thats not even full length housing, so much so I had to crank the spring tension way up to get the brakes to retract fully. Would you say the jagwire setup is a better option for feel and performance? I have to run full length on my super-x regardless of housing type.

  6. #6
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    I just got a pair in yesterday at my shop.
    The finish looks quality.

    I look forward to installing them on my new frame which should ship today or tomorrow.
    I am currently using BB7 roads on a dirty disco and have been less than satisfied.

    With the HyRds paired with sram levers, I read that the lever throw is quite long. I am interested to see if that is true. I prefer to brake on my hoods and have the lever not bottom out on my knuckles(with ring finger and pinky wrapped around hoods)

    After examining my brake, it seems I may be able to modify the cable actuated lever arm to make it shorter. A shorter lever arm will have shorter throw at the lever, but potentially less modulation and power.

    Ill let you know what I decide when I install the brake.

    @alias, is the cable tight when the brake isnt being used? If its loose, there is your problem. If the cable is too tight, the reservoir wont fill and the pistons wont protrude to account for pad wear.
    Also, give the brake a squeeze and examine your housing. Does it squish and squirm? Make sure none of the pieces of housing are too short.
    Oh, and check the cable fixing bolt at the master cylinder. Is the cable routed the same way with both brakes? Or is one cable mounted a little further away from the cable seat? That would increase throw.

    And, if all else fails, I guess it may need to be bled...
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  7. #7
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    Very impressed with them so far. Great feel, plenty of stop, surprisingly quiet in the rain. extra special bonus: they use the same shimano pads as my mtn bike disc brakes! and the pads are cheap!

  8. #8
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    Thanks for the replies. I ordered a pair and will install them after my race tomorrow. Should be a nice upgrade. I did read on road bike review that the pads wear very quickly in the mud, so I will swap them out before they are close.
    Are we putting air in the tires today?

  9. #9
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    YOOO,
    Just got mine in. Still waiting on my new frame, but got ancy and installed the front brake on my soon to be warrantied On One dirty disco.

    So, properly set up, it has a medium length lever stroke with sram force brakes. I was actually able to grip the hood with my pinky and ring finger, while applying full braking force with my pointer and middle, without bottoming out on my knuckles. My bb7s would bottom out on my knuckles even when properly set up.

    Big plus to those who prefer to ride on the hoods. I personally swap between the hoods and drops, and like to have options!

    As for braking feel and performance, the lever feel is just the same as my BB7s. Whatever. Makes sense. You are still dragging a cable though housing and pivoting a lever arm. My Bb7s are installed with Gore Ride On Sealed Cables and Housing, and always felt fine at the lever. The Hyrd does not feel as light action as a true hydraulic system

    Modulation- much better than my BB7s. Not as great as some MTB brakes I have used, but nothing to complain about. Much better than my bb7s is all I care about.

    Bite- bites well initially, not as grabby as BB7s with metal pads. My bb7s were downright scary with their bite and lack of modulation.

    Ultimate power- about the same as my BB7s, but with a little less force required. My bb7s would toss you over the bars if you tell them to.

    Overall, very impressed. These will be a great addition to my soon to be Fisticuff Monstercross.
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  10. #10
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    I've been impressed with mine after a couple of months of steady riding. I found the lever throw too much, so I "over charged" the reservoir and all is good. I know this affects the pad adjustment, but feel is more important.

    I haven't had mine in the mud yet, but Sundays 'cross race is calling for heavy rain...I'll report back.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Overkill View Post
    I've been impressed with mine after a couple of months of steady riding. I found the lever throw too much, so I "over charged" the reservoir and all is good. I know this affects the pad adjustment, but feel is more important.

    I haven't had mine in the mud yet, but Sundays 'cross race is calling for heavy rain...I'll report back.
    What kind of shifters are you using? Curious as to why your setup has so much lever throw.
    I pulled out the instructions a second ago just to go over them again and read this "If lock knob can be threaded into arm, this means the actuator arm is in the correct position and hydraulic system is open"

    After reading this, I was able to tighten my cable and still thread the lock knob into the actuator arm. So now my lever throw has gone from medium to medium/short. Even better IMO.

    I wonder how tight you have to pull the cable before you close off the fluid refill system. Obviously the lawyers say you have the have the knob threaded, but I bet you can go a bit further with no issues.

    @overkill, if you have been riding for a few months with the system closed, Im sure you have had to account for pad wear. Right? Or not? Think its refilling? Or are you opening the system, pumping the pistons out manually, and closing the system again?

    Sheepo
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  12. #12
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    I'm using sram force shifters - well the right one anyway - the left is a sram brake only lever.

    I haven't had to adjust anything with regards to the pistons - only the cable. Now, I'm not sure if that's taking up cable stretch or pad wear? I guess I need a muddy ride to get some significant pad wear to really know. I can't tighten down the lock knob, so I must be operating with a "closed system'?

  13. #13
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    Try looening you cable arm, and pumping out your pistons. once cable tension is slack, are the pads still close to the rotor? Or have they developed a gap?


    That should tell you whether you have been taking cable slack or accounting for pad wear.
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    how did you 'over-charge' the system?

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sheepo5669 View Post
    Try looening you cable arm, and pumping out your pistons. once cable tension is slack, are the pads still close to the rotor? Or have they developed a gap?


    That should tell you whether you have been taking cable slack or accounting for pad wear.
    Thanks I'll try that out.

    It didn't end up raining in my cx race yesterday, so I wasn't able to test the brakes in the mud.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by alias33 View Post
    how did you 'over-charge' the system?
    There is a small allen key adjustment on the caliper that you screw in - it will imporove lever throw, but does effect the hydrolic system. You'll have to get someone else to explain exactly how this effects things.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Overkill View Post
    There is a small allen key adjustment on the caliper that you screw in - it will imporove lever throw, but does effect the hydrolic system. You'll have to get someone else to explain exactly how this effects things.
    ^^That is not over charging the system

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by the mayor View Post
    ^^That is not over charging the system
    Thanks for the correction - what is 'over charging' the system then?

  19. #19
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    Anyone Here Using TRP HYRD's?

    Quote Originally Posted by Overkill View Post
    There is a small allen key adjustment on the caliper that you screw in - it will imporove lever throw, but does effect the hydrolic system. You'll have to get someone else to explain exactly how this effects things.
    If I am thinking about this correctly, screwing that arm adjustment knob to make the arm perpendicular to the cable increases lever throw and makes the brake work in a more linear fashion.

    I haven't adjusted mine yet, but I believe that's how it should work.
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  20. #20
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    It worked on mine. I did this after my first ride 1200km ago. If that's not what over charging is, then that must refer to something else.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Overkill View Post
    It worked on mine. I did this after my first ride 1200km ago. If that's not what over charging is, then that must refer to something else.
    Overcharging the system is where you add additional mineral oil to the reservoir. You effectively over fill the reservoir which then pushes the pistons out and the pads sit closer to the rotor. Now when you grab the lever the pads are sitting closer so the throw feels shorter. It is tricky because if you add too much oil then the pads starting point will be too close to the rotor. Also, we are talking about very small amounts of oil, so if you get it wrong you will have oil everywhere. If you go this route, get an experienced mechanic to do it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sheepo5669 View Post
    If I am thinking about this correctly, screwing that arm adjustment knob to make the arm perpendicular to the cable increases lever throw and makes the brake work in a more linear fashion.

    I haven't adjusted mine yet, but I believe that's how it should work.

    ^ is anyone able to confirm this? I want to make sure that adjusting any of the 2 set screws doesn't effect the hydrolic system.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by spacemanrides View Post
    Overcharging the system is where you add additional mineral oil to the reservoir. You effectively over fill the reservoir which then pushes the pistons out and the pads sit closer to the rotor. Now when you grab the lever the pads are sitting closer so the throw feels shorter. It is tricky because if you add too much oil then the pads starting point will be too close to the rotor. Also, we are talking about very small amounts of oil, so if you get it wrong you will have oil everywhere. If you go this route, get an experienced mechanic to do it.
    Gotcha - I certainly wouldn't want to do that. Thanks for the info.

  24. #24
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    From my understanding of the 'technical bulletin' that is available, if you can still screw in the locking mechanism, the hydraulic system is working correctly. Only one of mine screws in and locks, so I likely turned the set screw on that one just a little more (I needed to do this to get the same lever throw between the two).

    It seems there is "some" adjustment there without affecting system.

  25. #25
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    My right hand lever has a ton more throw than my left. The housing is compressing. I have a set of Zokozuna C+H on the way, it should solve that problem and provide solid braking.
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  26. #26
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    From what I understand, any of the newest generation Shimano brifters pull a bit more cable than any of the SRAM shifters, and they work much better with the TRP HY/RD brakes. There's a local CX/MTB team here in CO that are using these brakes and they love 'em.

    After tomorrow, I'll be using them, too. I'm replacing my SRAM hydraulic brakes. Why? Love the brakes, don't like the SRAM shifters. Going to DA 7900 w/TRP HY/RD setup instead. (yes, my SRAM shifters/brakes are available )

  27. #27
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    I have been on two rides and one race with the HY/RD brakes and they are perfect. Stopping power feels equivalent to a typical MTB hydro brake. I never used mechanical disc brakes on my MTB, so no idea if they were as bad as the mechanical CX brakes. It seems the fundamental problem is that only one side moved. Maybe some of the models that both calipers move would be an improvement, but this didn't seem to be on the list for the warranty replacement. They are heavy for a caliper, but without a reservoir in the lever, you probably save some weight there.

    Best of all, I can still use my Dura Ace levers. Throw on the rear is slightly longer than the front, but not enough to cause any issues.
    Are we putting air in the tires today?

  28. #28
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    bike thermometer said 11 degrees f in the garage this morning and got down to 5 degrees on the commute. i was worried that they'd be worse in the cold but the stopping power was just about the same.

  29. #29
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    Been riding mine for a month and a half with 105 levers, now the lever throw to get decent braking power on the rear caliper has grown so much that the lever is touching the handlebar. The lock knob can be locked and cables are new with compressionless housing.

    I'm going to try out the "topping off" method to add more mineral oil to the reservoir. Tektro send me a link to this youtube-clip:
    HY/RD Pro Tips With James Sullivan - YouTube

    Has anyone else tried this?

  30. #30
    jrm
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    How are people mounting them on IS tabs? Do these use an adapter and washer stack like the BB7s or just a adapter. TIA.

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by jrm View Post
    How are people mounting them on IS tabs? Do these use an adapter and washer stack like the BB7s or just a adapter. TIA.
    They use the same adapter as the BB7, but no washer stack.

    Checkout this thread at bikeforums.net "Review: TRP HY/RD brakes", last photo depicts the mount:
    Last edited by tietze; 11-27-2013 at 04:40 AM.

  32. #32
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    Thanks for sharing the link. The topping off idea sounds interesting but as soon as the pad wear equals the amount of extra fluid added you are back to where you started. Looks to me the extra travel issue should be sorted out on the cable side which is clearly a different issue with every bike.

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by tietze View Post
    Been riding mine for a month and a half with 105 levers, now the lever throw to get decent braking power on the rear caliper has grown so much that the lever is touching the handlebar. The lock knob can be locked and cables are new with compressionless housing.

    I'm going to try out the "topping off" method to add more mineral oil to the reservoir. Tektro send me a link to this youtube-clip:
    HY/RD Pro Tips With James Sullivan - YouTube

    Has anyone else tried this?
    Have you tried just tightening the cable? Barrel adjusters work (to a point) or you could just reattach the cable with less slack in it. Certainly much easier than messing with the reservoir.

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by psychocross View Post
    The topping off idea sounds interesting but as soon as the pad wear equals the amount of extra fluid added you are back to where you started.
    No the calipers provide "automatic pad wear adjustment" even when topped off.

    Quote Originally Posted by psychocross View Post
    Looks to me the extra travel issue should be sorted out on the cable side which is clearly a different issue with every bike.
    Quote Originally Posted by mudge View Post
    Have you tried just tightening the cable? Barrel adjusters work (to a point) or you could just reattach the cable with less slack in it. Certainly much easier than messing with the reservoir.
    This will close off the hydraulic system. Opposed to topping off it disables the "automatic pad wear adjustment" and you will have to continually adjust the cable length.

    Nb. topping off worked for me :-)

  35. #35
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    I have been using the HYRDs with Shimano Ultegra levers for about four months now. Too much lever throw at first. I have done two adjustments that have worked so far for me. First, I pulled up as much slack as possible with barrel adjust where locking mechanism would still work. Second, adjusted set screw for piston at the back of caliper to achieve desired throw. Been riding for about three months with these adjustments, so far so good.

  36. #36
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    I am also having problems with lever throw

    I think these things are not ready for prime time. I have a set that I would like to sell cheap. Used them for only about five rides. They are in good shape but I just don't like them. I have not tried fancy cable housing or made any adjustments so it could just be my issue but I will sell them cheap; send me a PM if you are interested.

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    I've been using HY/RD's since last July. (That's my review linked to in post #31 above.)

    There have definitely been some issues, but in spite of the pain I still think they're great brakes. The big thing seems to be making sure you've got the redesigned gaskets. With the original gaskets, near as I can tell, the brakes never adjusted for pad wear regardless of what you did or didn't do with the barrel adjuster. With the redesigned gasket I'm pretty sure they do self-adjust.

    Braking power is great and I've never had a disc brake that was quieter in the rain. Some of that is obviously the pad, and the stock pads look like they aren't going to make 1500 miles in the front. I've only used them on my commuter, though they've seen a lot of rain miles. Obviously they'd wear out even faster on a CX course.

  38. #38
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    I have calipers from the first two US deliveries in 2014. Production changes include increased reservoir volume, revised gasket/diaphragm, a set screw on the plunger shaft to discourage manipulation, limiter on the barrel adjuster, and metal sleeves surrounding the pad pistons. The caliper from delivery #2 had long lever pull and vague engagement compared to #1. The top-off & purge procedure https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S0i4aQ8S34w performed on #2 allowed a bubble to escape from the piston cylinder, which shortened lever travel and firmed-up feel a little.



    Note the use of a drinking straw like a pipette instead of syringe.

    I caution against adjusting the cable with barrel adjuster to the point the lock-out bolt is difficult to screw in; there should be minor drag, not resistance. If new cable & housing is installed with the caliper, re-adjust cable tautness after bed-in by screwing the barrel adjuster in, loosen pinch bolt, pull cable, tighten pinch bolt, and adjust using barrel adjuster. The latest barrel adjuster will only make 1.5 turns before spinning in place and that's not enough to accommodate housing bed-in on its own.

    SwissStop green (organic) pads perform well in my application.

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    So the new calipers still require top-off? That's disappointing. I had hoped the new gaskets fixed that problem.

    I did my top-off with the calipers still mounted to the bike. It was a little tricky to get the bike positioned in the stand such that the reservoir was parallel to the floor, but I think it was still easier than removing and re-installing the calipers.

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    Thanks for confirming that other people are having issues.

    I am pretty annoyed. I don't really want to engage in a "project" to make them work.

    I talked to TRP and asked if I could return them for exchange towards the cost of another product that would actually work without becoming a project. The guys at TRP informed me that they would not provide a refund or even credit towards another one of their products.

    They are willing to look at my brakes and will inspect them and make sure they are not defective units but as soon as I get them back from service I am going to sell them.

  41. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andy_K View Post
    So the new calipers still require top-off?...
    Quote Originally Posted by HillDancer View Post
    ...The top-off & purge procedure...allowed a bubble to escape from the piston cylinder...
    The reservoir had plenty of fluid, the piston/plunger cylinder had a trapped bubble. I'm guessing my habit of tightening the cable enough to make the lock-out difficult to screw in & out was preventing the plunger from withdrawing past the charge orifice, which if allowed to completely retract probably would have allowed the bubble to come out. I'll also guess the bubble was introduced at the factory, if it happens again I'll suspect seals.

    Quote Originally Posted by Andy_K View Post
    ...I did my top-off with the calipers still mounted to the bike...I think it was still easier than removing and re-installing the calipers.
    Removing three bolts seemed to be less work for me. Having the caliper in hand also provided a good view of things for thorough clean-up. I think it's important to clean the pinch bolt clamping bits and cable end also. Spilled mineral oil migrates to near and far places.



    Quote Originally Posted by febikes View Post
    ...I don't really want to engage in a "project" to make them work...
    Compressionless housing elevates the performance of any mechanical brake, not just the Hy/Rd. Having done the caliper packaging and shipping routine (Spyre recall) and the top-off procedure (Hy/Rd maintenance), the troubleshooting effort expended on the Hy/Rd was much less bothersome for me.

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    Quote Originally Posted by febikes View Post
    Thanks for confirming that other people are having issues.

    I am pretty annoyed. I don't really want to engage in a "project" to make them work.

    I talked to TRP and asked if I could return them for exchange towards the cost of another product that would actually work without becoming a project. The guys at TRP informed me that they would not provide a refund or even credit towards another one of their products.

    They are willing to look at my brakes and will inspect them and make sure they are not defective units but as soon as I get them back from service I am going to sell them.
    We are happy to accept returns, within 60 days of purchase, on any unused product that has been purchased directly from TRP. Any product purchased from a dealer or other retailer must be returned to them and is subject to their return policies.

    We are more than happy to evaluate any of our products free of charge for defects or other issues and will gladly fix or replace calipers if necessary. We have a two year warranty on all of our products. We even cover the return shipping back to the customer.

    We do highly recommend using compression-less cable housing with any disc brake, not only our own.

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    Quote Originally Posted by HillDancer View Post
    Removing three bolts seemed to be less work for me. Having the caliper in hand also provided a good view of things for thorough clean-up. I think it's important to clean the pinch bolt clamping bits and cable end also. Spilled mineral oil migrates to near and far places.
    Maybe I'm suffering residual trauma from using BB7s. Getting those calipers properly aligned was usually more involved than just tightening a couple of bolts. I didn't have any trouble when I first installed the HY/RDs but it just seemed better not to undo something that was working.

  44. #44
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    SRAM's CPS bolts are a little more effected by uneven torque, meaning the caliper can shift if uneven or excessive torque is applied to one or both mounting bolts. However, it's still important to tighten any caliper mounting bolts incrementally in stages, and don't over tighten. A precision lb-in torque wrench is very worthwhile.

  45. #45
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    I pulled my brakes off and checked the fluid level. Both were low. The front took 5 or 6 drops to top it off, the rear took 10-12. Lever feel was greatly improved & the lever travel was cut in half. I'm pretty happy w/ the performance from the short ride I had after the service!
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  46. #46
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    Switched over to the Spyre. Hy/Rd may work great for cross, but not reliable for long rides.

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    Re: Anyone Here Using TRP HYRD's?

    Quote Originally Posted by EBrider View Post
    Switched over to the Spyre. Hy/Rd may work great for cross, but not reliable for long rides.

    Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
    Interesting, what makes those calipers unreliable for long rides? (and on a sidenote what is a long ride?)
    Last edited by tietze; 05-11-2014 at 02:58 AM.

  48. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by EBrider View Post
    Switched over to the Spyre. Hy/Rd may work great for cross, but not reliable for long rides.

    Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
    Could you elaborate? What aspect of their reliability/performance isn't suited for long rides?

  49. #49
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    I've used mine on a 50 mile gravel ride and didn't experience anything that made me think a longer ride might be a problem.

    I have had issues with failure to adjust to pad wear that might make me not trust them on an extended tour.

  50. #50
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    Maybe not the distance alone, but maybe distance and retain. I take my bike through what I normally ride on a mountain bike. So the problem may only occur after 100+ miles

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    Are we putting air in the tires today?

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