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  1. #1
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    Anyone Here Using TRP HYRD's?

    I saw a few comments, but no feedback on anyone that is actually using them?

    Thinking of buying a set rather than waiting form my Shimano CX 75 recall replacement.
    Are we putting air in the tires today?

  2. #2
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    i have them on my new race bike. i've had the bike for 2 weeks and have done a few singletrack rides, lots of fire road climbing and descending, lots of road miles and 2 CX races so far....all in dry conditions.

    they work well for me and have a good feel at the lever. pads seems to be wearing well with my 210 lbs. a buddy of mine has the force hydraulic and i personally didn't like the mushy feel, but it could be his setup.

    they are plenty strong. i can be on the hoods all race/ride except for the really steep/techy descents. i'm still getting used to braking later and later into corners but it's coming along.

  3. #3
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    I just installed these today and noticed that the rear brake has quite a bit longer lever throw than the front, I'm running gore housing with I assume is mid level quality, I plan to upgrade to yokozuna compressionless full length housing for both front and rear. Anyone have luck with any other housing brands or have similar issues with a longer throw out back? Maybe the rear needs a bleed? The front performs flawlessly and has a perfect lever throw.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by alias33 View Post
    I plan to upgrade to yokozuna compression-less full length housing for both front and rear. Anyone have luck with any other housing brands or have similar issues with a longer throw out back?
    I used Yokozuna on a Raleigh RXC Pro disc and found the cable action very nice compared to Gore RideOn Professional and sealed low-friction. The drawback I found was that the stiffness of the cable housing made it difficult to make the bend from the exit point on the rear stay to the caliper (Shimano CX75) which resulted in a stiffer lever throw for the rear. I took a suggestion on another thread about mechanical disc brakes and started using a hybrid cable system essentially replicating the Gore Ride-On using Jagwire Racer cable kits coupled with Jagwire L3 brake cable liners with the advantage that these cables don't have the teflon coating that flakes off with the Gore cables. Our current builds use the new Shimano 9000 PTFE cables with the Jagwire L3 liners which I think works as good or better than the hybrid Jagwire cables - just not as many color choices.

  5. #5
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    I've also noticed the stiffer lever action from my rear brakes on my trek madone road bike and thats not even full length housing, so much so I had to crank the spring tension way up to get the brakes to retract fully. Would you say the jagwire setup is a better option for feel and performance? I have to run full length on my super-x regardless of housing type.

  6. #6
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    I just got a pair in yesterday at my shop.
    The finish looks quality.

    I look forward to installing them on my new frame which should ship today or tomorrow.
    I am currently using BB7 roads on a dirty disco and have been less than satisfied.

    With the HyRds paired with sram levers, I read that the lever throw is quite long. I am interested to see if that is true. I prefer to brake on my hoods and have the lever not bottom out on my knuckles(with ring finger and pinky wrapped around hoods)

    After examining my brake, it seems I may be able to modify the cable actuated lever arm to make it shorter. A shorter lever arm will have shorter throw at the lever, but potentially less modulation and power.

    Ill let you know what I decide when I install the brake.

    @alias, is the cable tight when the brake isnt being used? If its loose, there is your problem. If the cable is too tight, the reservoir wont fill and the pistons wont protrude to account for pad wear.
    Also, give the brake a squeeze and examine your housing. Does it squish and squirm? Make sure none of the pieces of housing are too short.
    Oh, and check the cable fixing bolt at the master cylinder. Is the cable routed the same way with both brakes? Or is one cable mounted a little further away from the cable seat? That would increase throw.

    And, if all else fails, I guess it may need to be bled...
    Raised in a Chicken-Coop by Chickens

  7. #7
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    Very impressed with them so far. Great feel, plenty of stop, surprisingly quiet in the rain. extra special bonus: they use the same shimano pads as my mtn bike disc brakes! and the pads are cheap!

  8. #8
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    Thanks for the replies. I ordered a pair and will install them after my race tomorrow. Should be a nice upgrade. I did read on road bike review that the pads wear very quickly in the mud, so I will swap them out before they are close.
    Are we putting air in the tires today?

  9. #9
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    YOOO,
    Just got mine in. Still waiting on my new frame, but got ancy and installed the front brake on my soon to be warrantied On One dirty disco.

    So, properly set up, it has a medium length lever stroke with sram force brakes. I was actually able to grip the hood with my pinky and ring finger, while applying full braking force with my pointer and middle, without bottoming out on my knuckles. My bb7s would bottom out on my knuckles even when properly set up.

    Big plus to those who prefer to ride on the hoods. I personally swap between the hoods and drops, and like to have options!

    As for braking feel and performance, the lever feel is just the same as my BB7s. Whatever. Makes sense. You are still dragging a cable though housing and pivoting a lever arm. My Bb7s are installed with Gore Ride On Sealed Cables and Housing, and always felt fine at the lever. The Hyrd does not feel as light action as a true hydraulic system

    Modulation- much better than my BB7s. Not as great as some MTB brakes I have used, but nothing to complain about. Much better than my bb7s is all I care about.

    Bite- bites well initially, not as grabby as BB7s with metal pads. My bb7s were downright scary with their bite and lack of modulation.

    Ultimate power- about the same as my BB7s, but with a little less force required. My bb7s would toss you over the bars if you tell them to.

    Overall, very impressed. These will be a great addition to my soon to be Fisticuff Monstercross.
    Raised in a Chicken-Coop by Chickens

  10. #10
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    I've been impressed with mine after a couple of months of steady riding. I found the lever throw too much, so I "over charged" the reservoir and all is good. I know this affects the pad adjustment, but feel is more important.

    I haven't had mine in the mud yet, but Sundays 'cross race is calling for heavy rain...I'll report back.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Overkill View Post
    I've been impressed with mine after a couple of months of steady riding. I found the lever throw too much, so I "over charged" the reservoir and all is good. I know this affects the pad adjustment, but feel is more important.

    I haven't had mine in the mud yet, but Sundays 'cross race is calling for heavy rain...I'll report back.
    What kind of shifters are you using? Curious as to why your setup has so much lever throw.
    I pulled out the instructions a second ago just to go over them again and read this "If lock knob can be threaded into arm, this means the actuator arm is in the correct position and hydraulic system is open"

    After reading this, I was able to tighten my cable and still thread the lock knob into the actuator arm. So now my lever throw has gone from medium to medium/short. Even better IMO.

    I wonder how tight you have to pull the cable before you close off the fluid refill system. Obviously the lawyers say you have the have the knob threaded, but I bet you can go a bit further with no issues.

    @overkill, if you have been riding for a few months with the system closed, Im sure you have had to account for pad wear. Right? Or not? Think its refilling? Or are you opening the system, pumping the pistons out manually, and closing the system again?

    Sheepo
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  12. #12
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    I'm using sram force shifters - well the right one anyway - the left is a sram brake only lever.

    I haven't had to adjust anything with regards to the pistons - only the cable. Now, I'm not sure if that's taking up cable stretch or pad wear? I guess I need a muddy ride to get some significant pad wear to really know. I can't tighten down the lock knob, so I must be operating with a "closed system'?

  13. #13
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    Try looening you cable arm, and pumping out your pistons. once cable tension is slack, are the pads still close to the rotor? Or have they developed a gap?


    That should tell you whether you have been taking cable slack or accounting for pad wear.
    Raised in a Chicken-Coop by Chickens

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    how did you 'over-charge' the system?

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sheepo5669 View Post
    Try looening you cable arm, and pumping out your pistons. once cable tension is slack, are the pads still close to the rotor? Or have they developed a gap?


    That should tell you whether you have been taking cable slack or accounting for pad wear.
    Thanks I'll try that out.

    It didn't end up raining in my cx race yesterday, so I wasn't able to test the brakes in the mud.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by alias33 View Post
    how did you 'over-charge' the system?
    There is a small allen key adjustment on the caliper that you screw in - it will imporove lever throw, but does effect the hydrolic system. You'll have to get someone else to explain exactly how this effects things.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Overkill View Post
    There is a small allen key adjustment on the caliper that you screw in - it will imporove lever throw, but does effect the hydrolic system. You'll have to get someone else to explain exactly how this effects things.
    ^^That is not over charging the system

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by the mayor View Post
    ^^That is not over charging the system
    Thanks for the correction - what is 'over charging' the system then?

  19. #19
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    Anyone Here Using TRP HYRD's?

    Quote Originally Posted by Overkill View Post
    There is a small allen key adjustment on the caliper that you screw in - it will imporove lever throw, but does effect the hydrolic system. You'll have to get someone else to explain exactly how this effects things.
    If I am thinking about this correctly, screwing that arm adjustment knob to make the arm perpendicular to the cable increases lever throw and makes the brake work in a more linear fashion.

    I haven't adjusted mine yet, but I believe that's how it should work.
    Raised in a Chicken-Coop by Chickens

  20. #20
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    It worked on mine. I did this after my first ride 1200km ago. If that's not what over charging is, then that must refer to something else.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Overkill View Post
    It worked on mine. I did this after my first ride 1200km ago. If that's not what over charging is, then that must refer to something else.
    Overcharging the system is where you add additional mineral oil to the reservoir. You effectively over fill the reservoir which then pushes the pistons out and the pads sit closer to the rotor. Now when you grab the lever the pads are sitting closer so the throw feels shorter. It is tricky because if you add too much oil then the pads starting point will be too close to the rotor. Also, we are talking about very small amounts of oil, so if you get it wrong you will have oil everywhere. If you go this route, get an experienced mechanic to do it.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sheepo5669 View Post
    If I am thinking about this correctly, screwing that arm adjustment knob to make the arm perpendicular to the cable increases lever throw and makes the brake work in a more linear fashion.

    I haven't adjusted mine yet, but I believe that's how it should work.

    ^ is anyone able to confirm this? I want to make sure that adjusting any of the 2 set screws doesn't effect the hydrolic system.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by spacemanrides View Post
    Overcharging the system is where you add additional mineral oil to the reservoir. You effectively over fill the reservoir which then pushes the pistons out and the pads sit closer to the rotor. Now when you grab the lever the pads are sitting closer so the throw feels shorter. It is tricky because if you add too much oil then the pads starting point will be too close to the rotor. Also, we are talking about very small amounts of oil, so if you get it wrong you will have oil everywhere. If you go this route, get an experienced mechanic to do it.
    Gotcha - I certainly wouldn't want to do that. Thanks for the info.

  24. #24
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    From my understanding of the 'technical bulletin' that is available, if you can still screw in the locking mechanism, the hydraulic system is working correctly. Only one of mine screws in and locks, so I likely turned the set screw on that one just a little more (I needed to do this to get the same lever throw between the two).

    It seems there is "some" adjustment there without affecting system.

  25. #25
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    My right hand lever has a ton more throw than my left. The housing is compressing. I have a set of Zokozuna C+H on the way, it should solve that problem and provide solid braking.
    Raised in a Chicken-Coop by Chickens

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