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  1. #1
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    Anyone Here Using TRP HYRD's?

    I saw a few comments, but no feedback on anyone that is actually using them?

    Thinking of buying a set rather than waiting form my Shimano CX 75 recall replacement.
    Are we putting air in the tires today?

  2. #2
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    i have them on my new race bike. i've had the bike for 2 weeks and have done a few singletrack rides, lots of fire road climbing and descending, lots of road miles and 2 CX races so far....all in dry conditions.

    they work well for me and have a good feel at the lever. pads seems to be wearing well with my 210 lbs. a buddy of mine has the force hydraulic and i personally didn't like the mushy feel, but it could be his setup.

    they are plenty strong. i can be on the hoods all race/ride except for the really steep/techy descents. i'm still getting used to braking later and later into corners but it's coming along.

  3. #3
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    I just installed these today and noticed that the rear brake has quite a bit longer lever throw than the front, I'm running gore housing with I assume is mid level quality, I plan to upgrade to yokozuna compressionless full length housing for both front and rear. Anyone have luck with any other housing brands or have similar issues with a longer throw out back? Maybe the rear needs a bleed? The front performs flawlessly and has a perfect lever throw.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by alias33 View Post
    I plan to upgrade to yokozuna compression-less full length housing for both front and rear. Anyone have luck with any other housing brands or have similar issues with a longer throw out back?
    I used Yokozuna on a Raleigh RXC Pro disc and found the cable action very nice compared to Gore RideOn Professional and sealed low-friction. The drawback I found was that the stiffness of the cable housing made it difficult to make the bend from the exit point on the rear stay to the caliper (Shimano CX75) which resulted in a stiffer lever throw for the rear. I took a suggestion on another thread about mechanical disc brakes and started using a hybrid cable system essentially replicating the Gore Ride-On using Jagwire Racer cable kits coupled with Jagwire L3 brake cable liners with the advantage that these cables don't have the teflon coating that flakes off with the Gore cables. Our current builds use the new Shimano 9000 PTFE cables with the Jagwire L3 liners which I think works as good or better than the hybrid Jagwire cables - just not as many color choices.

  5. #5
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    I've also noticed the stiffer lever action from my rear brakes on my trek madone road bike and thats not even full length housing, so much so I had to crank the spring tension way up to get the brakes to retract fully. Would you say the jagwire setup is a better option for feel and performance? I have to run full length on my super-x regardless of housing type.

  6. #6
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    I just got a pair in yesterday at my shop.
    The finish looks quality.

    I look forward to installing them on my new frame which should ship today or tomorrow.
    I am currently using BB7 roads on a dirty disco and have been less than satisfied.

    With the HyRds paired with sram levers, I read that the lever throw is quite long. I am interested to see if that is true. I prefer to brake on my hoods and have the lever not bottom out on my knuckles(with ring finger and pinky wrapped around hoods)

    After examining my brake, it seems I may be able to modify the cable actuated lever arm to make it shorter. A shorter lever arm will have shorter throw at the lever, but potentially less modulation and power.

    Ill let you know what I decide when I install the brake.

    @alias, is the cable tight when the brake isnt being used? If its loose, there is your problem. If the cable is too tight, the reservoir wont fill and the pistons wont protrude to account for pad wear.
    Also, give the brake a squeeze and examine your housing. Does it squish and squirm? Make sure none of the pieces of housing are too short.
    Oh, and check the cable fixing bolt at the master cylinder. Is the cable routed the same way with both brakes? Or is one cable mounted a little further away from the cable seat? That would increase throw.

    And, if all else fails, I guess it may need to be bled...
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  7. #7
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    Very impressed with them so far. Great feel, plenty of stop, surprisingly quiet in the rain. extra special bonus: they use the same shimano pads as my mtn bike disc brakes! and the pads are cheap!

  8. #8
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    Thanks for the replies. I ordered a pair and will install them after my race tomorrow. Should be a nice upgrade. I did read on road bike review that the pads wear very quickly in the mud, so I will swap them out before they are close.
    Are we putting air in the tires today?

  9. #9
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    YOOO,
    Just got mine in. Still waiting on my new frame, but got ancy and installed the front brake on my soon to be warrantied On One dirty disco.

    So, properly set up, it has a medium length lever stroke with sram force brakes. I was actually able to grip the hood with my pinky and ring finger, while applying full braking force with my pointer and middle, without bottoming out on my knuckles. My bb7s would bottom out on my knuckles even when properly set up.

    Big plus to those who prefer to ride on the hoods. I personally swap between the hoods and drops, and like to have options!

    As for braking feel and performance, the lever feel is just the same as my BB7s. Whatever. Makes sense. You are still dragging a cable though housing and pivoting a lever arm. My Bb7s are installed with Gore Ride On Sealed Cables and Housing, and always felt fine at the lever. The Hyrd does not feel as light action as a true hydraulic system

    Modulation- much better than my BB7s. Not as great as some MTB brakes I have used, but nothing to complain about. Much better than my bb7s is all I care about.

    Bite- bites well initially, not as grabby as BB7s with metal pads. My bb7s were downright scary with their bite and lack of modulation.

    Ultimate power- about the same as my BB7s, but with a little less force required. My bb7s would toss you over the bars if you tell them to.

    Overall, very impressed. These will be a great addition to my soon to be Fisticuff Monstercross.
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  10. #10
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    I've been impressed with mine after a couple of months of steady riding. I found the lever throw too much, so I "over charged" the reservoir and all is good. I know this affects the pad adjustment, but feel is more important.

    I haven't had mine in the mud yet, but Sundays 'cross race is calling for heavy rain...I'll report back.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Overkill View Post
    I've been impressed with mine after a couple of months of steady riding. I found the lever throw too much, so I "over charged" the reservoir and all is good. I know this affects the pad adjustment, but feel is more important.

    I haven't had mine in the mud yet, but Sundays 'cross race is calling for heavy rain...I'll report back.
    What kind of shifters are you using? Curious as to why your setup has so much lever throw.
    I pulled out the instructions a second ago just to go over them again and read this "If lock knob can be threaded into arm, this means the actuator arm is in the correct position and hydraulic system is open"

    After reading this, I was able to tighten my cable and still thread the lock knob into the actuator arm. So now my lever throw has gone from medium to medium/short. Even better IMO.

    I wonder how tight you have to pull the cable before you close off the fluid refill system. Obviously the lawyers say you have the have the knob threaded, but I bet you can go a bit further with no issues.

    @overkill, if you have been riding for a few months with the system closed, Im sure you have had to account for pad wear. Right? Or not? Think its refilling? Or are you opening the system, pumping the pistons out manually, and closing the system again?

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  12. #12
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    I'm using sram force shifters - well the right one anyway - the left is a sram brake only lever.

    I haven't had to adjust anything with regards to the pistons - only the cable. Now, I'm not sure if that's taking up cable stretch or pad wear? I guess I need a muddy ride to get some significant pad wear to really know. I can't tighten down the lock knob, so I must be operating with a "closed system'?

  13. #13
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    Try looening you cable arm, and pumping out your pistons. once cable tension is slack, are the pads still close to the rotor? Or have they developed a gap?


    That should tell you whether you have been taking cable slack or accounting for pad wear.
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    how did you 'over-charge' the system?

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sheepo5669 View Post
    Try looening you cable arm, and pumping out your pistons. once cable tension is slack, are the pads still close to the rotor? Or have they developed a gap?


    That should tell you whether you have been taking cable slack or accounting for pad wear.
    Thanks I'll try that out.

    It didn't end up raining in my cx race yesterday, so I wasn't able to test the brakes in the mud.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by alias33 View Post
    how did you 'over-charge' the system?
    There is a small allen key adjustment on the caliper that you screw in - it will imporove lever throw, but does effect the hydrolic system. You'll have to get someone else to explain exactly how this effects things.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Overkill View Post
    There is a small allen key adjustment on the caliper that you screw in - it will imporove lever throw, but does effect the hydrolic system. You'll have to get someone else to explain exactly how this effects things.
    ^^That is not over charging the system

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by the mayor View Post
    ^^That is not over charging the system
    Thanks for the correction - what is 'over charging' the system then?

  19. #19
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    Anyone Here Using TRP HYRD's?

    Quote Originally Posted by Overkill View Post
    There is a small allen key adjustment on the caliper that you screw in - it will imporove lever throw, but does effect the hydrolic system. You'll have to get someone else to explain exactly how this effects things.
    If I am thinking about this correctly, screwing that arm adjustment knob to make the arm perpendicular to the cable increases lever throw and makes the brake work in a more linear fashion.

    I haven't adjusted mine yet, but I believe that's how it should work.
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  20. #20
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    It worked on mine. I did this after my first ride 1200km ago. If that's not what over charging is, then that must refer to something else.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Overkill View Post
    It worked on mine. I did this after my first ride 1200km ago. If that's not what over charging is, then that must refer to something else.
    Overcharging the system is where you add additional mineral oil to the reservoir. You effectively over fill the reservoir which then pushes the pistons out and the pads sit closer to the rotor. Now when you grab the lever the pads are sitting closer so the throw feels shorter. It is tricky because if you add too much oil then the pads starting point will be too close to the rotor. Also, we are talking about very small amounts of oil, so if you get it wrong you will have oil everywhere. If you go this route, get an experienced mechanic to do it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sheepo5669 View Post
    If I am thinking about this correctly, screwing that arm adjustment knob to make the arm perpendicular to the cable increases lever throw and makes the brake work in a more linear fashion.

    I haven't adjusted mine yet, but I believe that's how it should work.

    ^ is anyone able to confirm this? I want to make sure that adjusting any of the 2 set screws doesn't effect the hydrolic system.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by spacemanrides View Post
    Overcharging the system is where you add additional mineral oil to the reservoir. You effectively over fill the reservoir which then pushes the pistons out and the pads sit closer to the rotor. Now when you grab the lever the pads are sitting closer so the throw feels shorter. It is tricky because if you add too much oil then the pads starting point will be too close to the rotor. Also, we are talking about very small amounts of oil, so if you get it wrong you will have oil everywhere. If you go this route, get an experienced mechanic to do it.
    Gotcha - I certainly wouldn't want to do that. Thanks for the info.

  24. #24
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    From my understanding of the 'technical bulletin' that is available, if you can still screw in the locking mechanism, the hydraulic system is working correctly. Only one of mine screws in and locks, so I likely turned the set screw on that one just a little more (I needed to do this to get the same lever throw between the two).

    It seems there is "some" adjustment there without affecting system.

  25. #25
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    My right hand lever has a ton more throw than my left. The housing is compressing. I have a set of Zokozuna C+H on the way, it should solve that problem and provide solid braking.
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  26. #26
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    From what I understand, any of the newest generation Shimano brifters pull a bit more cable than any of the SRAM shifters, and they work much better with the TRP HY/RD brakes. There's a local CX/MTB team here in CO that are using these brakes and they love 'em.

    After tomorrow, I'll be using them, too. I'm replacing my SRAM hydraulic brakes. Why? Love the brakes, don't like the SRAM shifters. Going to DA 7900 w/TRP HY/RD setup instead. (yes, my SRAM shifters/brakes are available )

  27. #27
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    I have been on two rides and one race with the HY/RD brakes and they are perfect. Stopping power feels equivalent to a typical MTB hydro brake. I never used mechanical disc brakes on my MTB, so no idea if they were as bad as the mechanical CX brakes. It seems the fundamental problem is that only one side moved. Maybe some of the models that both calipers move would be an improvement, but this didn't seem to be on the list for the warranty replacement. They are heavy for a caliper, but without a reservoir in the lever, you probably save some weight there.

    Best of all, I can still use my Dura Ace levers. Throw on the rear is slightly longer than the front, but not enough to cause any issues.
    Are we putting air in the tires today?

  28. #28
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    bike thermometer said 11 degrees f in the garage this morning and got down to 5 degrees on the commute. i was worried that they'd be worse in the cold but the stopping power was just about the same.

  29. #29
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    Been riding mine for a month and a half with 105 levers, now the lever throw to get decent braking power on the rear caliper has grown so much that the lever is touching the handlebar. The lock knob can be locked and cables are new with compressionless housing.

    I'm going to try out the "topping off" method to add more mineral oil to the reservoir. Tektro send me a link to this youtube-clip:
    HY/RD Pro Tips With James Sullivan - YouTube

    Has anyone else tried this?

  30. #30
    jrm
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    How are people mounting them on IS tabs? Do these use an adapter and washer stack like the BB7s or just a adapter. TIA.

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by jrm View Post
    How are people mounting them on IS tabs? Do these use an adapter and washer stack like the BB7s or just a adapter. TIA.
    They use the same adapter as the BB7, but no washer stack.

    Checkout this thread at bikeforums.net "Review: TRP HY/RD brakes", last photo depicts the mount:
    Last edited by tietze; 11-27-2013 at 05:40 AM.

  32. #32
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    Thanks for sharing the link. The topping off idea sounds interesting but as soon as the pad wear equals the amount of extra fluid added you are back to where you started. Looks to me the extra travel issue should be sorted out on the cable side which is clearly a different issue with every bike.

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by tietze View Post
    Been riding mine for a month and a half with 105 levers, now the lever throw to get decent braking power on the rear caliper has grown so much that the lever is touching the handlebar. The lock knob can be locked and cables are new with compressionless housing.

    I'm going to try out the "topping off" method to add more mineral oil to the reservoir. Tektro send me a link to this youtube-clip:
    HY/RD Pro Tips With James Sullivan - YouTube

    Has anyone else tried this?
    Have you tried just tightening the cable? Barrel adjusters work (to a point) or you could just reattach the cable with less slack in it. Certainly much easier than messing with the reservoir.

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by psychocross View Post
    The topping off idea sounds interesting but as soon as the pad wear equals the amount of extra fluid added you are back to where you started.
    No the calipers provide "automatic pad wear adjustment" even when topped off.

    Quote Originally Posted by psychocross View Post
    Looks to me the extra travel issue should be sorted out on the cable side which is clearly a different issue with every bike.
    Quote Originally Posted by mudge View Post
    Have you tried just tightening the cable? Barrel adjusters work (to a point) or you could just reattach the cable with less slack in it. Certainly much easier than messing with the reservoir.
    This will close off the hydraulic system. Opposed to topping off it disables the "automatic pad wear adjustment" and you will have to continually adjust the cable length.

    Nb. topping off worked for me :-)

  35. #35
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    I have been using the HYRDs with Shimano Ultegra levers for about four months now. Too much lever throw at first. I have done two adjustments that have worked so far for me. First, I pulled up as much slack as possible with barrel adjust where locking mechanism would still work. Second, adjusted set screw for piston at the back of caliper to achieve desired throw. Been riding for about three months with these adjustments, so far so good.

  36. #36
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    I am also having problems with lever throw

    I think these things are not ready for prime time. I have a set that I would like to sell cheap. Used them for only about five rides. They are in good shape but I just don't like them. I have not tried fancy cable housing or made any adjustments so it could just be my issue but I will sell them cheap; send me a PM if you are interested.

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    I've been using HY/RD's since last July. (That's my review linked to in post #31 above.)

    There have definitely been some issues, but in spite of the pain I still think they're great brakes. The big thing seems to be making sure you've got the redesigned gaskets. With the original gaskets, near as I can tell, the brakes never adjusted for pad wear regardless of what you did or didn't do with the barrel adjuster. With the redesigned gasket I'm pretty sure they do self-adjust.

    Braking power is great and I've never had a disc brake that was quieter in the rain. Some of that is obviously the pad, and the stock pads look like they aren't going to make 1500 miles in the front. I've only used them on my commuter, though they've seen a lot of rain miles. Obviously they'd wear out even faster on a CX course.

  38. #38
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    I have calipers from the first two US deliveries in 2014. Production changes include increased reservoir volume, revised gasket/diaphragm, a set screw on the plunger shaft to discourage manipulation, limiter on the barrel adjuster, and metal sleeves surrounding the pad pistons. The caliper from delivery #2 had long lever pull and vague engagement compared to #1. The top-off & purge procedure https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S0i4aQ8S34w performed on #2 allowed a bubble to escape from the piston cylinder, which shortened lever travel and firmed-up feel a little.



    Note the use of a drinking straw like a pipette instead of syringe.

    I caution against adjusting the cable with barrel adjuster to the point the lock-out bolt is difficult to screw in; there should be minor drag, not resistance. If new cable & housing is installed with the caliper, re-adjust cable tautness after bed-in by screwing the barrel adjuster in, loosen pinch bolt, pull cable, tighten pinch bolt, and adjust using barrel adjuster. The latest barrel adjuster will only make 1.5 turns before spinning in place and that's not enough to accommodate housing bed-in on its own.

    SwissStop green (organic) pads perform well in my application.

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    So the new calipers still require top-off? That's disappointing. I had hoped the new gaskets fixed that problem.

    I did my top-off with the calipers still mounted to the bike. It was a little tricky to get the bike positioned in the stand such that the reservoir was parallel to the floor, but I think it was still easier than removing and re-installing the calipers.

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    Thanks for confirming that other people are having issues.

    I am pretty annoyed. I don't really want to engage in a "project" to make them work.

    I talked to TRP and asked if I could return them for exchange towards the cost of another product that would actually work without becoming a project. The guys at TRP informed me that they would not provide a refund or even credit towards another one of their products.

    They are willing to look at my brakes and will inspect them and make sure they are not defective units but as soon as I get them back from service I am going to sell them.

  41. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andy_K View Post
    So the new calipers still require top-off?...
    Quote Originally Posted by HillDancer View Post
    ...The top-off & purge procedure...allowed a bubble to escape from the piston cylinder...
    The reservoir had plenty of fluid, the piston/plunger cylinder had a trapped bubble. I'm guessing my habit of tightening the cable enough to make the lock-out difficult to screw in & out was preventing the plunger from withdrawing past the charge orifice, which if allowed to completely retract probably would have allowed the bubble to come out. I'll also guess the bubble was introduced at the factory, if it happens again I'll suspect seals.

    Quote Originally Posted by Andy_K View Post
    ...I did my top-off with the calipers still mounted to the bike...I think it was still easier than removing and re-installing the calipers.
    Removing three bolts seemed to be less work for me. Having the caliper in hand also provided a good view of things for thorough clean-up. I think it's important to clean the pinch bolt clamping bits and cable end also. Spilled mineral oil migrates to near and far places.



    Quote Originally Posted by febikes View Post
    ...I don't really want to engage in a "project" to make them work...
    Compressionless housing elevates the performance of any mechanical brake, not just the Hy/Rd. Having done the caliper packaging and shipping routine (Spyre recall) and the top-off procedure (Hy/Rd maintenance), the troubleshooting effort expended on the Hy/Rd was much less bothersome for me.

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    Quote Originally Posted by febikes View Post
    Thanks for confirming that other people are having issues.

    I am pretty annoyed. I don't really want to engage in a "project" to make them work.

    I talked to TRP and asked if I could return them for exchange towards the cost of another product that would actually work without becoming a project. The guys at TRP informed me that they would not provide a refund or even credit towards another one of their products.

    They are willing to look at my brakes and will inspect them and make sure they are not defective units but as soon as I get them back from service I am going to sell them.
    We are happy to accept returns, within 60 days of purchase, on any unused product that has been purchased directly from TRP. Any product purchased from a dealer or other retailer must be returned to them and is subject to their return policies.

    We are more than happy to evaluate any of our products free of charge for defects or other issues and will gladly fix or replace calipers if necessary. We have a two year warranty on all of our products. We even cover the return shipping back to the customer.

    We do highly recommend using compression-less cable housing with any disc brake, not only our own.

  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by HillDancer View Post
    Removing three bolts seemed to be less work for me. Having the caliper in hand also provided a good view of things for thorough clean-up. I think it's important to clean the pinch bolt clamping bits and cable end also. Spilled mineral oil migrates to near and far places.
    Maybe I'm suffering residual trauma from using BB7s. Getting those calipers properly aligned was usually more involved than just tightening a couple of bolts. I didn't have any trouble when I first installed the HY/RDs but it just seemed better not to undo something that was working.

  44. #44
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    SRAM's CPS bolts are a little more effected by uneven torque, meaning the caliper can shift if uneven or excessive torque is applied to one or both mounting bolts. However, it's still important to tighten any caliper mounting bolts incrementally in stages, and don't over tighten. A precision lb-in torque wrench is very worthwhile.

  45. #45
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    I pulled my brakes off and checked the fluid level. Both were low. The front took 5 or 6 drops to top it off, the rear took 10-12. Lever feel was greatly improved & the lever travel was cut in half. I'm pretty happy w/ the performance from the short ride I had after the service!
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  46. #46
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    Switched over to the Spyre. Hy/Rd may work great for cross, but not reliable for long rides.

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    Re: Anyone Here Using TRP HYRD's?

    Quote Originally Posted by EBrider View Post
    Switched over to the Spyre. Hy/Rd may work great for cross, but not reliable for long rides.

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    Interesting, what makes those calipers unreliable for long rides? (and on a sidenote what is a long ride?)
    Last edited by tietze; 05-11-2014 at 02:58 AM.

  48. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by EBrider View Post
    Switched over to the Spyre. Hy/Rd may work great for cross, but not reliable for long rides.

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    Could you elaborate? What aspect of their reliability/performance isn't suited for long rides?

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    I've used mine on a 50 mile gravel ride and didn't experience anything that made me think a longer ride might be a problem.

    I have had issues with failure to adjust to pad wear that might make me not trust them on an extended tour.

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    Maybe not the distance alone, but maybe distance and retain. I take my bike through what I normally ride on a mountain bike. So the problem may only occur after 100+ miles

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    Quote Originally Posted by EBrider View Post
    Maybe not the distance alone, but maybe distance and retain. I take my bike through what I normally ride on a mountain bike. So the problem may only occur after 100+ miles
    I understand the concern, and I have it too. But I have yet to discover "the problem".

    After having topped-off and installed new gaskets I've had no issues. Riding road, gravel, and MTB-paths with my cyclocross bike.

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    Quote Originally Posted by tietze View Post
    After having topped-off and installed new gaskets I've had no issues. Riding road, gravel, and MTB-paths with my cyclocross bike.
    How many miles have you put on them since installing the new gaskets?

    When I installed the new gaskets I really thought that had fixed my problems, but 200 miles later they weren't adjusting to pad wear. When I replaced the front pads, the brakes wouldn't properly engage even after repeating all the tricks. TRP replaced my calipers under warranty. Now I'm curious to see if I just had a bad set or if others are following the same pattern.

  53. #53
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    i've done plenty of hilly centuries and gravel and dirt rides with my Hy/Rds and have yet to have any problems. i'm 210# and have been using the cheapo shimano resin pads.

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    It is more related to terrain than distance. I can go 100+ with no issues, but sketchy stuff can kill them in a hurry. In any event, I am doing the Dirty Kanza in a fee weeks and don't have the confidence in these brakes to ride them for the event. Maybe I will experiment more later as I do think they have a good feel when working.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Andy_K View Post
    How many miles have you put on them since installing the new gaskets?
    Around 110km on MTB singletrack and 340km on road. Still breaking nicely (no further adjustments yet, but front pads probably soon worn out) :-)

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    That's encouraging.

    I've put about 200 miles on my HY/RD's since they sent me the replacement calipers, but it's been mostly on pavement on dry days. I think my original calipers went 600 miles or so in similar conditions before I started having problems.

    In fact, other than excessive lever pull (which isn't an issue with the new ones) I didn't really start having problems until it got cold and rainy. I probably won't have complete confidence in these brakes until I've worn through a set of pads and replaced them without any trouble.

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    I've been using the newer Hy/rd with Ultegra 6800 levers(800km). Lever pull is perfect and they feel like true hydro system(Probably Shimano 11sp levers helped too). Unbelievable performance gain from Spyre calipers that they replaced.

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    anyone try it with V BRAKE LEVERS on MTB bikes?

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    Quote Originally Posted by xuzuohang View Post
    anyone try it with V BRAKE LEVERS on MTB bikes?
    Why would you do that?

    I don't think the results would be good. The cable pull ratio would be all wrong.

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    I just ordered a set of HY/RD and am a bit concerned about my decision. To those that had newer, working properly(?), versions of the HY/RD's. are there any visual differences between the two versions? I'd like to verify that I have the updated version prior to unboxing.

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    The brand new ones have "mineral oil" marked on the outside, see link below.

    TRP Brakes Updates the HY/RD Hydraulic Disc Brake for Cyclocross and Road Bikes - Interbike 2014

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    Quote Originally Posted by ds2199 View Post
    The brand new ones have "mineral oil" marked on the outside, see link below.

    TRP Brakes Updates the HY/RD Hydraulic Disc Brake for Cyclocross and Road Bikes - Interbike 2014
    Hopefully these are the ones they are sending me. Mine last pair were apparently the original crap ones. Less than 400 miles on the bike and TRP is replacing the brakes. Thankfully it is not my only bike.
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    I didn't notice any visual difference between the ones that didn't work and the ones that worked for me. I was talking to one of the mechanics from Sellwood Cycle at a race this weekend and he seemed pretty confident that he's figured out the necessary tricks to make even the original models work.

    I will say that throughout my troubles with these brakes TRP tech support was very responsive and reasonably helpful. I could tell early on that they were still trying to figure out the problems themselves, but I think they understand it now. The new model will probably be reliable.

  64. #64
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    I have an early set from last year.
    They now have around 4 thousand miles of dirt road rides and races and heading into their 2nd season of cross racing. Ridden in rain, mud and heat...with plenty of descending.

    The rear got the long lever throw early on. Added fluid and they have been fine.
    The stock pads are good....but I like the Shimano b01S pads a little better.
    I have run the EBC gold sintered pads in muddy races.

    I tried all the mechanical brakes....these were the best overall.
    But they aren't as good as the Shimano r785....but nothing is.

  65. #65
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    I like the feel of HY/RD brakes than SRAM hydro. I've been using them since Dec. 2013 and they are just awesome. I wonder how well they will work in Canadian winter.
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    Re: Anyone Here Using TRP HYRD's?

    Thanks all I purchased the Hy/Rds and they are really nice, easy setup and seem to work quite well, I've only got about 40 miles on them though.

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    Quote Originally Posted by HillDancer View Post
    I have calipers from the first two US deliveries in 2014. Production changes include increased reservoir volume, revised gasket/diaphragm, a set screw on the plunger shaft to discourage manipulation, limiter on the barrel adjuster, and metal sleeves surrounding the pad pistons. The caliper from delivery #2 had long lever pull and vague engagement compared to #1. The top-off & purge procedure https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S0i4aQ8S34w performed on #2 allowed a bubble to escape from the piston cylinder, which shortened lever travel and firmed-up feel a little.



    Note the use of a drinking straw like a pipette instead of syringe.

    I caution against adjusting the cable with barrel adjuster to the point the lock-out bolt is difficult to screw in; there should be minor drag, not resistance. If new cable & housing is installed with the caliper, re-adjust cable tautness after bed-in by screwing the barrel adjuster in, loosen pinch bolt, pull cable, tighten pinch bolt, and adjust using barrel adjuster. The latest barrel adjuster will only make 1.5 turns before spinning in place and that's not enough to accommodate housing bed-in on its own.

    SwissStop green (organic) pads perform well in my application.
    I would love to watch the video about topping off but apparently it is private, any chance you can fix that so I can see the process, I am about to have a second go at topping off my front brake and would like to see what you did first.

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    Quote Originally Posted by sgisaac View Post
    I would love to watch the video about topping off but apparently it is private, any chance you can fix that so I can see the process, I am about to have a second go at topping off my front brake and would like to see what you did first.
    I don't think you should have to do that anymore. Try contacting TRP support and see if they won't send you new calipers. As I understand it, the top off procedure was necessary because of some design flaw in the early runs of the Hy/Rds. I've never actually seen TRP say that directly, but they do seem to have stopped telling people how to do that and since they sent me replacement calipers (after a few rounds of working through problems with their support team) I haven't had any problems and have not needed to open the caliper for any reason. With my original calipers (purchased in June 2013), the top off procedure provided amazing initial results, but it turned out not to be a satisfactory long term fix.

  69. #69
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    While I agree with Andy_K, there is also this video showing the topping off procedure: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LNaj5l8hUEY

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    This is an old thready, but as an update to my original post, TRP was good enough to swap out my first generation HY/RD brakes with the newer model. I have not had any of the issues with fluid over heating that I had with the first generation brakes. They have been pretty well tested at this point, including a long technical single track descent that surely would have fried the old ones. I feel completely comfortable with the new brakes.
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    I had a used pair of Hy/rd calipers on my bike, but took m off for a while.

    I always screwed up my pads. I thought it was the caliper leaking oil or something, but I read a German review that the B01S pads loose power when they got wet. That is also my experience. After putting them on and bedding them in, the pads and brakes work flawless. But after a ride in the rain or puddles, the brake gets a bit spongier and does not brake anymore. When I remove the pads, the surface looks very shine, like they are polished.

    When I was trying around with one of them, a piston fell out and oil seeped out too.

    My bike is always has to be outside. At home it is covered, but still exposed to moist air etc. At work its sitting outside exposed to sun, rain and everything in between.

    I have Avid G2CS rotors 200/160mm which I always clean with acetone when putting new pads on.

    Questions that I have now:
    -Which pads are good alternatives for the B01S pads?

    -Does anyone have the same experience/issues with the B01S pads?

    -Is there an alternative bleed kit that I could use? The original TRP one is quite pricey...

    Hoping for some answers here. I admit that during the time they work, I love them and I would really like to get them back on the bike.

  72. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by cyclingdutchman View Post
    -Which pads are good alternatives for the B01S pads?
    I have used SwissStop and Superstar Kevlar. The SwissStop have more 'bite" but costs quite a bit.

    Quote Originally Posted by cyclingdutchman View Post
    -Is there an alternative bleed kit that I could use? The original TRP one is quite pricey...
    You don't need any bleed kit, do the topping off procedure as in the above video.

    1. Remove pads
    2. Insert the bleed block: either use a Shimano bleed block (Y-8J712000) or make one yourself with bits of old plastic cards
    3. Level the caliper
    4. Wrap in paper to catch overflow
    5. Remove the top cap
    6. Pump the caliper
    7. Fill it up with Shimano/TRP mineral oil for brakes
    8. Put on rubber sea and top cap
    9. Clean with isopropyl alcohol


    If the old pads are contaminated and/or squealing and not braking well you can throw them out or try the following: Clean with isopropyl. Sand the brake pads. Heat/burn the brake pads with flame (cheap crme brl burner worked for me). Clean the discs with isopropyl. Sand the discs. Install and bed in the brake pads again.

    Contaminated pads - eliminate disc brake squeal: Tech Tuesday - Silence That Squeaky Disc Brake - Pinkbike

    DIY bleed block: How to Make a Bleed Block/Pad Spacer | Epic Bleed Solutions

    Shimano bleed block (cannot go all the way in, but works)
    Anyone Here Using TRP HYRD's?-shimano-entlueftungs-distanzstueck-fuer-2-kolben-b-58427fc6fb0b633f573cdc0961f7ca5c.jpg

    Quote Originally Posted by cyclingdutchman View Post
    I have Avid G2CS rotors 200/160mm which I always clean with acetone when putting new pads on.I have Avid G2CS rotors 200/160mm which I always clean with acetone when putting new pads on.
    Use isopropyl aclohol instead, it leaves less risidue.

  73. #73
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    Hi tietze,

    Thanks a lot for your extensive reply. Will go through all the instructions over the next time. I just ordered swissstop organic pads, type disc 15 should fit.

    One question though just to be sure: One of my pistons once fell out (my fault), to refill them I really do NOT need a bleed kit??

    Thanks again, positive reputation given.

  74. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by cyclingdutchman View Post
    One question though just to be sure: One of my pistons once fell out (my fault), to refill them I really do NOT need a bleed kit??
    No, just pump them to remove air bubbles, but be sure to put in a bleed block to get the right amount of mineral oil in and prevent it falling out again. Maybe some silicone grease on the sides of the piston.

  75. #75
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    I've got them on my 2014 Diamondback Century. Set them up per the instructions. Broke them in (burned in) using the instructions on pinkbike and have had no issues. Rode all last season on them, no worries and no readjustments. May have the newer ones but that doesn't seem likely (based on age of bike). Rear is slightly softer than front but not problematic. My bike has the140mm discs and road tires, so not a apples to apples comparison perhaps.
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    Quote Originally Posted by cyclingdutchman View Post
    One question though just to be sure: One of my pistons once fell out (my fault), to refill them I really do NOT need a bleed kit??
    While I agree that you don't need a bleed kit with these brakes (and I haven't had a need to bleed them at all since getting working calipers), I would talk to TRP support about the piston having come out. That could be causing a problem with the seals.

  77. #77
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    I've used the original SRAM hydros (the recalled ones). They were better than anything cable actuated at the time, but nothing compared to the XT/685/785 brakes from Shimano. Haven't tried the new SRAM offerings, I imagine they're good but they're too expensive for me to try them.

    I've also used the HyRd brakes and find them to be, in many ways, the best of both worlds. They work much better than BB7s, even better than the original SRAM hydros IMO. Not as nice as the Shimano offerings, but unless you're using the 785 version, you're stuck with that goofy shifting issue with the small lever not working if there's even the slightest pressure on the big lever, which of course is common when trying to shift on a CX bike.

    Biggest selling point for me, drum roll... you can use them with any shifters you want, or no shifters at all.

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    Thanks for the tips again

    I currently have the TRP Spyres installed which use the same type of shimano compatible pad. The new Swisstop pads arrived yesterday, were installed and broken in immediately. Braking power is now a bit better, when I squeeze hard, I can lock up the rear wheel. Still I expected a bit more. I did not sand the rotors yet though. Will try that tonight or tomorrow.

    BTW this is how I came up with the pads issue. I thought the Hy/Rds's were leaking some oil and contaminating the pads, but I had the same issue with the Spyres as well, even with new pads and cleaned rotors. That is where I realised that it had to be the B01S pads themselves. Still strange though, I believe even in this thread I have read that they perform flawlessly in dry, wet and muddy conditions over months.....ah well, I always seem to have something "special"

    Will probably install 1 Hy/Rd caliper next weekend. One is working and will try to get the other one going as well, If I make it to the LBS to get some mineral oil. Otherwise I will contact the TRP support to see if they can help me.

    I'll keep you all posted.

  79. #79
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    What cables are installed for the brake calipers?

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    Quote Originally Posted by tietze View Post
    What cables are installed for the brake calipers?
    I have jagwire pro compressionless cables and housings. Mostly renewed a month ago.

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    TRP HyRd user here. Been using it for more than a year on my Cooper cx. Not impressed at all. Inconsistent, and take an awful lot of lever effort from my older 105 levers. But maybe that is partly the levers fault. Just seems like my cable discs never deliver a smooth controllable braking action, like it is going to lock up and judder on me all the time.

    I am switching to the new 105 full hydraulic discs now. I have XT brakes on my Mtn bike and absolutely love them - telepathic, effortless and smooth. Want that on the Cx bike too!

  82. #82
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    Older 105 levers are quite terrible to use from hoods imo, it's hard to get leverage from there.

    I have HyRd:s too (2015 models which were said to be improved from older model). They are an improvement to Shimano BR-CX77 brakes though which I had earlier - much better braking force especially in wet conditions (with same brake discs).

    EDIT If I had to rate them from 1 to 5 where (2013) Shimano 105 levers+BR-CX77 brakes would get 1/5 points and Sram Rival hydros would get 5/5 points then 105/HyRd would get 3/5 points. (no experience of Shimano hydros)
    Last edited by kyttyra; 03-24-2016 at 05:07 AM.

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    I just wanted to throw in my two cents. I have about 1k on my HY RD's that came with a MY2015 bike and finally have them to where they are pretty impressive. For reference, I also have XT brakes on one bike and the recent 685 hydraulic system on another bike. I know what strong brakes should feel like and finally have the HY RD's pretty close if not there. They have less lever pull than my 685's and the power is getting much closer as well after everything below.

    I am using Ultegra 6800 levers with the HY RD's. Here's where I went wrong and also what I changed:

    1) Those barrel adjusters are probably where half their customer service calls probably come from. Even with them adjusted tight enough to barely screw in the 'stopper' of the actuator arm, that's still enough to close off the system. Even though I was sure I had it open enough to compensate, it was still closed. For those just setting up, error on the 'loose' side of cable tension. If the system is open, you shouldn't have to worry about levers hitting the bar.

    2) Do the top-off procedure. This will eliminate any excess throw. Take our your pads, put a bleed block in there. Actuate the arm a few times (with the block in place!) to work out any bubbles or slack in the system. Add the TRP oil (Or Shimano mineral oil is the same thing) until it is 'topped off.' Put the lid back on and there should be a little bit of oil running down the side since you overfilled the reservoir. You don't really need the bleed kit to do all this. Spray rubbing alcohol and clean up the ENTIRE caliper. Do it again. And again. If even a hint of brake oil ends up on your pads or rotors, your brake will suffer. Check out 2:15 of the following video for a visual walk through. The entire video is really good though. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LNaj5l8hUEY


    3) Compressionless housing. OEM housing is getting worse and worse, so that's probably the first upgrade for ANY bike sold now. I'm a big fan of Jagwire compressionless. I have tried Yokozuna and it was too difficult to work with around tight bends and even the handlebars.

    4) Those stock pads were okay, but didn't do well in the wet. I tried a couple pairs of Truckerco pads and they sucked a little less in the wet, but no better in the dry. Just buy the Swisstop Disc 15 pads. They work so much better. There's also a new TRP pad I just started using that's great.

    5) Rotors with lots of holes wouldn't work well. Older Hayes Mud Cutter Rotors worked well. TRP has a 6 bolt version of their TRP 25 rotor that works REALLY well. They are calling it their new 29'er rotor, but I don't see it on the website yet.

    6) Call TRP. Dave Biehler was incredibly helpful. He was one of the coolest people I have talked to from any manufacturer. TRP also has a new pad compound not seen on their website yet. It works VERY well with the new rotors.

    Hopefully those new pads start shipping with HY RD units. Thanks to TRP for your help!

  84. #84
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    I love my HyRd's, used with compressionless Jaguar housing. but anyone have any ideas on getting ride of the squeel I have on the fronts? Maybe I touched (with dirt or oil)the rotors or something during install?.

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    Wow. After reading this thread I'm glad I went with the Hope V-twin. Much less hassle, even taking into account shortening the lines. No bleed necessary, just clipped off the excess hose, installed fresh olives and barb fittings and screwed back together. No bubbles, no fade, even on crazy steep and long descents. I seriously considered the TRP, but based on what I've read it seems like more trouble than it's worth.

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    @Pgm83: THANK YOU for your extensive and very helpful posting!

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    Interesting reading, didn't realize these weren't as good for others as they have been for me. I've got a few thousand miles on my fall 2014 bike and they have been great since day one. Lots of on road/off road, wet and dry, summer and winter riding and no issues at all. Their matched up with 5700 105 brifters which seem to work just fine.

  88. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by michaelrm View Post
    Interesting reading, didn't realize these weren't as good for others as they have been for me. I've got a few thousand miles on my fall 2014 bike and they have been great since day one. Lots of on road/off road, wet and dry, summer and winter riding and no issues at all. Their matched up with 5700 105 brifters which seem to work just fine.

    The second generation HY/RDs are money. Lots of miles over crazy terrain and haven't had a problem. I think the first generation were only on the market for one season and TRP swapped mine out at no charge. Thanks TRP for standing behind your products.

    I would definitely recommend these brakes.
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    Yeah, the new generation is much better. It was a night/day difference almost but compression-less housing is almost must for them.

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    Quote Originally Posted by EddieSmirckx View Post
    Wow. After reading this thread I'm glad I went with the Hope V-twin. Much less hassle, even taking into account shortening the lines. No bleed necessary, just clipped off the excess hose, installed fresh olives and barb fittings and screwed back together. No bubbles, no fade, even on crazy steep and long descents. I seriously considered the TRP, but based on what I've read it seems like more trouble than it's worth.
    I'm not sure if I would call it a hassle. Most of it comes down to not closing off the system (it's too easy to do) and using compressionless housing. I'm not familiar with the Hopes though. Maybe they are the bee's knees.

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  91. #91
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    ^^^Walk me through "closing off the system" please. What is the "stopper" on the actuator arm?
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  92. #92
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    Quote Originally Posted by TiGeo View Post
    ^^^Walk me through "closing off the system" please. What is the "stopper" on the actuator arm?
    They say the barrel adjuster has about 1.5 turns before it closes off the system.

    I've had my HYRDs for quite some time now, the new style, and I love them. Solid stopping power and no brake rub.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Pink57 View Post
    They say the barrel adjuster has about 1.5 turns before it closes off the system.

    I've had my HYRDs for quite some time now, the new style, and I love them. Solid stopping power and no brake rub.
    Yep - got that part, the part that I can't seem to get info on is the little allen screw inside the actuator arm that gives you great pad grab adjustment...but TRP says don't touch it and I realize it likely closes off the system.
    Geologist by trade...bicycle mechanic (former) by the grace of God!

    2018 Niner RKT 9 RDO - enduro are #@$%

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