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Anyone Here Using TRP HYRD's?

30K views 98 replies 39 participants last post by  threepin 
#1 ·
I saw a few comments, but no feedback on anyone that is actually using them?

Thinking of buying a set rather than waiting form my Shimano CX 75 recall replacement.
 
#40 ·
Thanks for confirming that other people are having issues.

I am pretty annoyed. I don't really want to engage in a "project" to make them work.

I talked to TRP and asked if I could return them for exchange towards the cost of another product that would actually work without becoming a project. The guys at TRP informed me that they would not provide a refund or even credit towards another one of their products.

They are willing to look at my brakes and will inspect them and make sure they are not defective units but as soon as I get them back from service I am going to sell them.
 
#42 ·
Thanks for confirming that other people are having issues.

I am pretty annoyed. I don't really want to engage in a "project" to make them work.

I talked to TRP and asked if I could return them for exchange towards the cost of another product that would actually work without becoming a project. The guys at TRP informed me that they would not provide a refund or even credit towards another one of their products.

They are willing to look at my brakes and will inspect them and make sure they are not defective units but as soon as I get them back from service I am going to sell them.
We are happy to accept returns, within 60 days of purchase, on any unused product that has been purchased directly from TRP. Any product purchased from a dealer or other retailer must be returned to them and is subject to their return policies.

We are more than happy to evaluate any of our products free of charge for defects or other issues and will gladly fix or replace calipers if necessary. We have a two year warranty on all of our products. We even cover the return shipping back to the customer.

We do highly recommend using compression-less cable housing with any disc brake, not only our own.
 
#44 ·
SRAM's CPS bolts are a little more effected by uneven torque, meaning the caliper can shift if uneven or excessive torque is applied to one or both mounting bolts. However, it's still important to tighten any caliper mounting bolts incrementally in stages, and don't over tighten. A precision lb-in torque wrench is very worthwhile.
 
#51 ·
Maybe not the distance alone, but maybe distance and retain. I take my bike through what I normally ride on a mountain bike. So the problem may only occur after 100+ miles
I understand the concern, and I have it too. But I have yet to discover "the problem".

After having topped-off and installed new gaskets I've had no issues. Riding road, gravel, and MTB-paths with my cyclocross bike.
 
#54 ·
It is more related to terrain than distance. I can go 100+ with no issues, but sketchy stuff can kill them in a hurry. In any event, I am doing the Dirty Kanza in a fee weeks and don't have the confidence in these brakes to ride them for the event. Maybe I will experiment more later as I do think they have a good feel when working.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
 
#56 ·
That's encouraging.

I've put about 200 miles on my HY/RD's since they sent me the replacement calipers, but it's been mostly on pavement on dry days. I think my original calipers went 600 miles or so in similar conditions before I started having problems.

In fact, other than excessive lever pull (which isn't an issue with the new ones) I didn't really start having problems until it got cold and rainy. I probably won't have complete confidence in these brakes until I've worn through a set of pads and replaced them without any trouble.
 
#63 ·
I didn't notice any visual difference between the ones that didn't work and the ones that worked for me. I was talking to one of the mechanics from Sellwood Cycle at a race this weekend and he seemed pretty confident that he's figured out the necessary tricks to make even the original models work.

I will say that throughout my troubles with these brakes TRP tech support was very responsive and reasonably helpful. I could tell early on that they were still trying to figure out the problems themselves, but I think they understand it now. The new model will probably be reliable.
 
#64 ·
I have an early set from last year.
They now have around 4 thousand miles of dirt road rides and races and heading into their 2nd season of cross racing. Ridden in rain, mud and heat...with plenty of descending.

The rear got the long lever throw early on. Added fluid and they have been fine.
The stock pads are good....but I like the Shimano b01S pads a little better.
I have run the EBC gold sintered pads in muddy races.

I tried all the mechanical brakes....these were the best overall.
But they aren't as good as the Shimano r785....but nothing is.
 
#70 ·
This is an old thready, but as an update to my original post, TRP was good enough to swap out my first generation HY/RD brakes with the newer model. I have not had any of the issues with fluid over heating that I had with the first generation brakes. They have been pretty well tested at this point, including a long technical single track descent that surely would have fried the old ones. I feel completely comfortable with the new brakes.
 
#71 ·
I had a used pair of Hy/rd calipers on my bike, but took m off for a while.

I always screwed up my pads. I thought it was the caliper leaking oil or something, but I read a German review that the B01S pads loose power when they got wet. That is also my experience. After putting them on and bedding them in, the pads and brakes work flawless. But after a ride in the rain or puddles, the brake gets a bit spongier and does not brake anymore. When I remove the pads, the surface looks very shine, like they are polished.

When I was trying around with one of them, a piston fell out and oil seeped out too.

My bike is always has to be outside. At home it is covered, but still exposed to moist air etc. At work its sitting outside exposed to sun, rain and everything in between.

I have Avid G2CS rotors 200/160mm which I always clean with acetone when putting new pads on.

Questions that I have now:
-Which pads are good alternatives for the B01S pads?

-Does anyone have the same experience/issues with the B01S pads?

-Is there an alternative bleed kit that I could use? The original TRP one is quite pricey...

Hoping for some answers here. I admit that during the time they work, I love them and I would really like to get them back on the bike.
 
#72 ·
-Which pads are good alternatives for the B01S pads?
I have used SwissStop and Superstar Kevlar. The SwissStop have more 'bite" but costs quite a bit.

-Is there an alternative bleed kit that I could use? The original TRP one is quite pricey...
You don't need any bleed kit, do the topping off procedure as in the above video.

  1. Remove pads
  2. Insert the bleed block: either use a Shimano bleed block (Y-8J712000) or make one yourself with bits of old plastic cards
  3. Level the caliper
  4. Wrap in paper to catch overflow
  5. Remove the top cap
  6. Pump the caliper
  7. Fill it up with Shimano/TRP mineral oil for brakes
  8. Put on rubber sea and top cap
  9. Clean with isopropyl alcohol

If the old pads are contaminated and/or squealing and not braking well you can throw them out or try the following: Clean with isopropyl. Sand the brake pads. Heat/burn the brake pads with flame (cheap crème brûlé burner worked for me). Clean the discs with isopropyl. Sand the discs. Install and bed in the brake pads again.

Contaminated pads - eliminate disc brake squeal: Tech Tuesday - Silence That Squeaky Disc Brake - Pinkbike

DIY bleed block: How to Make a Bleed Block/Pad Spacer | Epic Bleed Solutions

Shimano bleed block (cannot go all the way in, but works)
Yellow Product Orange Plastic Square


I have Avid G2CS rotors 200/160mm which I always clean with acetone when putting new pads on.I have Avid G2CS rotors 200/160mm which I always clean with acetone when putting new pads on.
Use isopropyl aclohol instead, it leaves less risidue.
 
G
#75 ·
I've got them on my 2014 Diamondback Century. Set them up per the instructions. Broke them in (burned in) using the instructions on pinkbike and have had no issues. Rode all last season on them, no worries and no readjustments. May have the newer ones but that doesn't seem likely (based on age of bike). Rear is slightly softer than front but not problematic. My bike has the140mm discs and road tires, so not a apples to apples comparison perhaps.
 
#77 ·
I've used the original SRAM hydros (the recalled ones). They were better than anything cable actuated at the time, but nothing compared to the XT/685/785 brakes from Shimano. Haven't tried the new SRAM offerings, I imagine they're good but they're too expensive for me to try them.

I've also used the HyRd brakes and find them to be, in many ways, the best of both worlds. They work much better than BB7s, even better than the original SRAM hydros IMO. Not as nice as the Shimano offerings, but unless you're using the 785 version, you're stuck with that goofy shifting issue with the small lever not working if there's even the slightest pressure on the big lever, which of course is common when trying to shift on a CX bike.

Biggest selling point for me, drum roll... you can use them with any shifters you want, or no shifters at all.
 
#78 ·
Thanks for the tips again

I currently have the TRP Spyres installed which use the same type of shimano compatible pad. The new Swisstop pads arrived yesterday, were installed and broken in immediately. Braking power is now a bit better, when I squeeze hard, I can lock up the rear wheel. Still I expected a bit more. I did not sand the rotors yet though. Will try that tonight or tomorrow.

BTW this is how I came up with the pads issue. I thought the Hy/Rds's were leaking some oil and contaminating the pads, but I had the same issue with the Spyres as well, even with new pads and cleaned rotors. That is where I realised that it had to be the B01S pads themselves. Still strange though, I believe even in this thread I have read that they perform flawlessly in dry, wet and muddy conditions over months.....ah well, I always seem to have something "special"

Will probably install 1 Hy/Rd caliper next weekend. One is working and will try to get the other one going as well, If I make it to the LBS to get some mineral oil. Otherwise I will contact the TRP support to see if they can help me.

I'll keep you all posted.
 
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