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  1. #26
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    From what I understand, any of the newest generation Shimano brifters pull a bit more cable than any of the SRAM shifters, and they work much better with the TRP HY/RD brakes. There's a local CX/MTB team here in CO that are using these brakes and they love 'em.

    After tomorrow, I'll be using them, too. I'm replacing my SRAM hydraulic brakes. Why? Love the brakes, don't like the SRAM shifters. Going to DA 7900 w/TRP HY/RD setup instead. (yes, my SRAM shifters/brakes are available )

  2. #27
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    I have been on two rides and one race with the HY/RD brakes and they are perfect. Stopping power feels equivalent to a typical MTB hydro brake. I never used mechanical disc brakes on my MTB, so no idea if they were as bad as the mechanical CX brakes. It seems the fundamental problem is that only one side moved. Maybe some of the models that both calipers move would be an improvement, but this didn't seem to be on the list for the warranty replacement. They are heavy for a caliper, but without a reservoir in the lever, you probably save some weight there.

    Best of all, I can still use my Dura Ace levers. Throw on the rear is slightly longer than the front, but not enough to cause any issues.
    Are we putting air in the tires today?

  3. #28
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    bike thermometer said 11 degrees f in the garage this morning and got down to 5 degrees on the commute. i was worried that they'd be worse in the cold but the stopping power was just about the same.

  4. #29
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    Been riding mine for a month and a half with 105 levers, now the lever throw to get decent braking power on the rear caliper has grown so much that the lever is touching the handlebar. The lock knob can be locked and cables are new with compressionless housing.

    I'm going to try out the "topping off" method to add more mineral oil to the reservoir. Tektro send me a link to this youtube-clip:
    HY/RD Pro Tips With James Sullivan - YouTube

    Has anyone else tried this?

  5. #30
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    How are people mounting them on IS tabs? Do these use an adapter and washer stack like the BB7s or just a adapter. TIA.
    Wreck the malls with cows on Harleys

  6. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by jrm View Post
    How are people mounting them on IS tabs? Do these use an adapter and washer stack like the BB7s or just a adapter. TIA.
    They use the same adapter as the BB7, but no washer stack.

    Checkout this thread at bikeforums.net "Review: TRP HY/RD brakes", last photo depicts the mount:
    Last edited by tietze; 11-27-2013 at 04:40 AM.

  7. #32
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    Thanks for sharing the link. The topping off idea sounds interesting but as soon as the pad wear equals the amount of extra fluid added you are back to where you started. Looks to me the extra travel issue should be sorted out on the cable side which is clearly a different issue with every bike.

  8. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by tietze View Post
    Been riding mine for a month and a half with 105 levers, now the lever throw to get decent braking power on the rear caliper has grown so much that the lever is touching the handlebar. The lock knob can be locked and cables are new with compressionless housing.

    I'm going to try out the "topping off" method to add more mineral oil to the reservoir. Tektro send me a link to this youtube-clip:
    HY/RD Pro Tips With James Sullivan - YouTube

    Has anyone else tried this?
    Have you tried just tightening the cable? Barrel adjusters work (to a point) or you could just reattach the cable with less slack in it. Certainly much easier than messing with the reservoir.

  9. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by psychocross View Post
    The topping off idea sounds interesting but as soon as the pad wear equals the amount of extra fluid added you are back to where you started.
    No the calipers provide "automatic pad wear adjustment" even when topped off.

    Quote Originally Posted by psychocross View Post
    Looks to me the extra travel issue should be sorted out on the cable side which is clearly a different issue with every bike.
    Quote Originally Posted by mudge View Post
    Have you tried just tightening the cable? Barrel adjusters work (to a point) or you could just reattach the cable with less slack in it. Certainly much easier than messing with the reservoir.
    This will close off the hydraulic system. Opposed to topping off it disables the "automatic pad wear adjustment" and you will have to continually adjust the cable length.

    Nb. topping off worked for me :-)

  10. #35
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    I have been using the HYRDs with Shimano Ultegra levers for about four months now. Too much lever throw at first. I have done two adjustments that have worked so far for me. First, I pulled up as much slack as possible with barrel adjust where locking mechanism would still work. Second, adjusted set screw for piston at the back of caliper to achieve desired throw. Been riding for about three months with these adjustments, so far so good.

  11. #36
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    I am also having problems with lever throw

    I think these things are not ready for prime time. I have a set that I would like to sell cheap. Used them for only about five rides. They are in good shape but I just don't like them. I have not tried fancy cable housing or made any adjustments so it could just be my issue but I will sell them cheap; send me a PM if you are interested.
    Mark Farnsworth, Raleigh, NC
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  12. #37
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    I've been using HY/RD's since last July. (That's my review linked to in post #31 above.)

    There have definitely been some issues, but in spite of the pain I still think they're great brakes. The big thing seems to be making sure you've got the redesigned gaskets. With the original gaskets, near as I can tell, the brakes never adjusted for pad wear regardless of what you did or didn't do with the barrel adjuster. With the redesigned gasket I'm pretty sure they do self-adjust.

    Braking power is great and I've never had a disc brake that was quieter in the rain. Some of that is obviously the pad, and the stock pads look like they aren't going to make 1500 miles in the front. I've only used them on my commuter, though they've seen a lot of rain miles. Obviously they'd wear out even faster on a CX course.

  13. #38
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    I have calipers from the first two US deliveries in 2014. Production changes include increased reservoir volume, revised gasket/diaphragm, a set screw on the plunger shaft to discourage manipulation, limiter on the barrel adjuster, and metal sleeves surrounding the pad pistons. The caliper from delivery #2 had long lever pull and vague engagement compared to #1. The top-off & purge procedure https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S0i4aQ8S34w performed on #2 allowed a bubble to escape from the piston cylinder, which shortened lever travel and firmed-up feel a little.



    Note the use of a drinking straw like a pipette instead of syringe.

    I caution against adjusting the cable with barrel adjuster to the point the lock-out bolt is difficult to screw in; there should be minor drag, not resistance. If new cable & housing is installed with the caliper, re-adjust cable tautness after bed-in by screwing the barrel adjuster in, loosen pinch bolt, pull cable, tighten pinch bolt, and adjust using barrel adjuster. The latest barrel adjuster will only make 1.5 turns before spinning in place and that's not enough to accommodate housing bed-in on its own.

    SwissStop green (organic) pads perform well in my application.

  14. #39
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    So the new calipers still require top-off? That's disappointing. I had hoped the new gaskets fixed that problem.

    I did my top-off with the calipers still mounted to the bike. It was a little tricky to get the bike positioned in the stand such that the reservoir was parallel to the floor, but I think it was still easier than removing and re-installing the calipers.

  15. #40
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    Thanks for confirming that other people are having issues.

    I am pretty annoyed. I don't really want to engage in a "project" to make them work.

    I talked to TRP and asked if I could return them for exchange towards the cost of another product that would actually work without becoming a project. The guys at TRP informed me that they would not provide a refund or even credit towards another one of their products.

    They are willing to look at my brakes and will inspect them and make sure they are not defective units but as soon as I get them back from service I am going to sell them.
    Mark Farnsworth, Raleigh, NC
    http://farnsworthbikes.com

  16. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andy_K View Post
    So the new calipers still require top-off?...
    Quote Originally Posted by HillDancer View Post
    ...The top-off & purge procedure...allowed a bubble to escape from the piston cylinder...
    The reservoir had plenty of fluid, the piston/plunger cylinder had a trapped bubble. I'm guessing my habit of tightening the cable enough to make the lock-out difficult to screw in & out was preventing the plunger from withdrawing past the charge orifice, which if allowed to completely retract probably would have allowed the bubble to come out. I'll also guess the bubble was introduced at the factory, if it happens again I'll suspect seals.

    Quote Originally Posted by Andy_K View Post
    ...I did my top-off with the calipers still mounted to the bike...I think it was still easier than removing and re-installing the calipers.
    Removing three bolts seemed to be less work for me. Having the caliper in hand also provided a good view of things for thorough clean-up. I think it's important to clean the pinch bolt clamping bits and cable end also. Spilled mineral oil migrates to near and far places.



    Quote Originally Posted by febikes View Post
    ...I don't really want to engage in a "project" to make them work...
    Compressionless housing elevates the performance of any mechanical brake, not just the Hy/Rd. Having done the caliper packaging and shipping routine (Spyre recall) and the top-off procedure (Hy/Rd maintenance), the troubleshooting effort expended on the Hy/Rd was much less bothersome for me.

  17. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by febikes View Post
    Thanks for confirming that other people are having issues.

    I am pretty annoyed. I don't really want to engage in a "project" to make them work.

    I talked to TRP and asked if I could return them for exchange towards the cost of another product that would actually work without becoming a project. The guys at TRP informed me that they would not provide a refund or even credit towards another one of their products.

    They are willing to look at my brakes and will inspect them and make sure they are not defective units but as soon as I get them back from service I am going to sell them.
    We are happy to accept returns, within 60 days of purchase, on any unused product that has been purchased directly from TRP. Any product purchased from a dealer or other retailer must be returned to them and is subject to their return policies.

    We are more than happy to evaluate any of our products free of charge for defects or other issues and will gladly fix or replace calipers if necessary. We have a two year warranty on all of our products. We even cover the return shipping back to the customer.

    We do highly recommend using compression-less cable housing with any disc brake, not only our own.

  18. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by HillDancer View Post
    Removing three bolts seemed to be less work for me. Having the caliper in hand also provided a good view of things for thorough clean-up. I think it's important to clean the pinch bolt clamping bits and cable end also. Spilled mineral oil migrates to near and far places.
    Maybe I'm suffering residual trauma from using BB7s. Getting those calipers properly aligned was usually more involved than just tightening a couple of bolts. I didn't have any trouble when I first installed the HY/RDs but it just seemed better not to undo something that was working.

  19. #44
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    SRAM's CPS bolts are a little more effected by uneven torque, meaning the caliper can shift if uneven or excessive torque is applied to one or both mounting bolts. However, it's still important to tighten any caliper mounting bolts incrementally in stages, and don't over tighten. A precision lb-in torque wrench is very worthwhile.

  20. #45
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    I pulled my brakes off and checked the fluid level. Both were low. The front took 5 or 6 drops to top it off, the rear took 10-12. Lever feel was greatly improved & the lever travel was cut in half. I'm pretty happy w/ the performance from the short ride I had after the service!
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  21. #46
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    Switched over to the Spyre. Hy/Rd may work great for cross, but not reliable for long rides.

    Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
    Are we putting air in the tires today?

  22. #47
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    Re: Anyone Here Using TRP HYRD's?

    Quote Originally Posted by EBrider View Post
    Switched over to the Spyre. Hy/Rd may work great for cross, but not reliable for long rides.

    Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
    Interesting, what makes those calipers unreliable for long rides? (and on a sidenote what is a long ride?)
    Last edited by tietze; 05-11-2014 at 02:58 AM.

  23. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by EBrider View Post
    Switched over to the Spyre. Hy/Rd may work great for cross, but not reliable for long rides.

    Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
    Could you elaborate? What aspect of their reliability/performance isn't suited for long rides?

  24. #49
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    I've used mine on a 50 mile gravel ride and didn't experience anything that made me think a longer ride might be a problem.

    I have had issues with failure to adjust to pad wear that might make me not trust them on an extended tour.

  25. #50
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    Maybe not the distance alone, but maybe distance and retain. I take my bike through what I normally ride on a mountain bike. So the problem may only occur after 100+ miles

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