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  1. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by EBrider View Post
    Maybe not the distance alone, but maybe distance and retain. I take my bike through what I normally ride on a mountain bike. So the problem may only occur after 100+ miles
    I understand the concern, and I have it too. But I have yet to discover "the problem".

    After having topped-off and installed new gaskets I've had no issues. Riding road, gravel, and MTB-paths with my cyclocross bike.

  2. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by tietze View Post
    After having topped-off and installed new gaskets I've had no issues. Riding road, gravel, and MTB-paths with my cyclocross bike.
    How many miles have you put on them since installing the new gaskets?

    When I installed the new gaskets I really thought that had fixed my problems, but 200 miles later they weren't adjusting to pad wear. When I replaced the front pads, the brakes wouldn't properly engage even after repeating all the tricks. TRP replaced my calipers under warranty. Now I'm curious to see if I just had a bad set or if others are following the same pattern.

  3. #53
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    i've done plenty of hilly centuries and gravel and dirt rides with my Hy/Rds and have yet to have any problems. i'm 210# and have been using the cheapo shimano resin pads.

  4. #54
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    It is more related to terrain than distance. I can go 100+ with no issues, but sketchy stuff can kill them in a hurry. In any event, I am doing the Dirty Kanza in a fee weeks and don't have the confidence in these brakes to ride them for the event. Maybe I will experiment more later as I do think they have a good feel when working.

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  5. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andy_K View Post
    How many miles have you put on them since installing the new gaskets?
    Around 110km on MTB singletrack and 340km on road. Still breaking nicely (no further adjustments yet, but front pads probably soon worn out) :-)

  6. #56
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    That's encouraging.

    I've put about 200 miles on my HY/RD's since they sent me the replacement calipers, but it's been mostly on pavement on dry days. I think my original calipers went 600 miles or so in similar conditions before I started having problems.

    In fact, other than excessive lever pull (which isn't an issue with the new ones) I didn't really start having problems until it got cold and rainy. I probably won't have complete confidence in these brakes until I've worn through a set of pads and replaced them without any trouble.

  7. #57
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    I've been using the newer Hy/rd with Ultegra 6800 levers(800km). Lever pull is perfect and they feel like true hydro system(Probably Shimano 11sp levers helped too). Unbelievable performance gain from Spyre calipers that they replaced.

  8. #58
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    anyone try it with V BRAKE LEVERS on MTB bikes?

  9. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by xuzuohang View Post
    anyone try it with V BRAKE LEVERS on MTB bikes?
    Why would you do that?

    I don't think the results would be good. The cable pull ratio would be all wrong.

  10. #60
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    I just ordered a set of HY/RD and am a bit concerned about my decision. To those that had newer, working properly(?), versions of the HY/RD's. are there any visual differences between the two versions? I'd like to verify that I have the updated version prior to unboxing.

  11. #61
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    The brand new ones have "mineral oil" marked on the outside, see link below.

    TRP Brakes Updates the HY/RD Hydraulic Disc Brake for Cyclocross and Road Bikes - Interbike 2014

  12. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by ds2199 View Post
    The brand new ones have "mineral oil" marked on the outside, see link below.

    TRP Brakes Updates the HY/RD Hydraulic Disc Brake for Cyclocross and Road Bikes - Interbike 2014
    Hopefully these are the ones they are sending me. Mine last pair were apparently the original crap ones. Less than 400 miles on the bike and TRP is replacing the brakes. Thankfully it is not my only bike.
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  13. #63
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    I didn't notice any visual difference between the ones that didn't work and the ones that worked for me. I was talking to one of the mechanics from Sellwood Cycle at a race this weekend and he seemed pretty confident that he's figured out the necessary tricks to make even the original models work.

    I will say that throughout my troubles with these brakes TRP tech support was very responsive and reasonably helpful. I could tell early on that they were still trying to figure out the problems themselves, but I think they understand it now. The new model will probably be reliable.

  14. #64
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    I have an early set from last year.
    They now have around 4 thousand miles of dirt road rides and races and heading into their 2nd season of cross racing. Ridden in rain, mud and heat...with plenty of descending.

    The rear got the long lever throw early on. Added fluid and they have been fine.
    The stock pads are good....but I like the Shimano b01S pads a little better.
    I have run the EBC gold sintered pads in muddy races.

    I tried all the mechanical brakes....these were the best overall.
    But they aren't as good as the Shimano r785....but nothing is.

  15. #65
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    I like the feel of HY/RD brakes than SRAM hydro. I've been using them since Dec. 2013 and they are just awesome. I wonder how well they will work in Canadian winter.
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  16. #66
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    Re: Anyone Here Using TRP HYRD's?

    Thanks all I purchased the Hy/Rds and they are really nice, easy setup and seem to work quite well, I've only got about 40 miles on them though.

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  17. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by HillDancer View Post
    I have calipers from the first two US deliveries in 2014. Production changes include increased reservoir volume, revised gasket/diaphragm, a set screw on the plunger shaft to discourage manipulation, limiter on the barrel adjuster, and metal sleeves surrounding the pad pistons. The caliper from delivery #2 had long lever pull and vague engagement compared to #1. The top-off & purge procedure https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S0i4aQ8S34w performed on #2 allowed a bubble to escape from the piston cylinder, which shortened lever travel and firmed-up feel a little.



    Note the use of a drinking straw like a pipette instead of syringe.

    I caution against adjusting the cable with barrel adjuster to the point the lock-out bolt is difficult to screw in; there should be minor drag, not resistance. If new cable & housing is installed with the caliper, re-adjust cable tautness after bed-in by screwing the barrel adjuster in, loosen pinch bolt, pull cable, tighten pinch bolt, and adjust using barrel adjuster. The latest barrel adjuster will only make 1.5 turns before spinning in place and that's not enough to accommodate housing bed-in on its own.

    SwissStop green (organic) pads perform well in my application.
    I would love to watch the video about topping off but apparently it is private, any chance you can fix that so I can see the process, I am about to have a second go at topping off my front brake and would like to see what you did first.

  18. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by sgisaac View Post
    I would love to watch the video about topping off but apparently it is private, any chance you can fix that so I can see the process, I am about to have a second go at topping off my front brake and would like to see what you did first.
    I don't think you should have to do that anymore. Try contacting TRP support and see if they won't send you new calipers. As I understand it, the top off procedure was necessary because of some design flaw in the early runs of the Hy/Rds. I've never actually seen TRP say that directly, but they do seem to have stopped telling people how to do that and since they sent me replacement calipers (after a few rounds of working through problems with their support team) I haven't had any problems and have not needed to open the caliper for any reason. With my original calipers (purchased in June 2013), the top off procedure provided amazing initial results, but it turned out not to be a satisfactory long term fix.

  19. #69
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    While I agree with Andy_K, there is also this video showing the topping off procedure: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LNaj5l8hUEY

  20. #70
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    This is an old thready, but as an update to my original post, TRP was good enough to swap out my first generation HY/RD brakes with the newer model. I have not had any of the issues with fluid over heating that I had with the first generation brakes. They have been pretty well tested at this point, including a long technical single track descent that surely would have fried the old ones. I feel completely comfortable with the new brakes.
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  21. #71
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    I had a used pair of Hy/rd calipers on my bike, but took m off for a while.

    I always screwed up my pads. I thought it was the caliper leaking oil or something, but I read a German review that the B01S pads loose power when they got wet. That is also my experience. After putting them on and bedding them in, the pads and brakes work flawless. But after a ride in the rain or puddles, the brake gets a bit spongier and does not brake anymore. When I remove the pads, the surface looks very shine, like they are polished.

    When I was trying around with one of them, a piston fell out and oil seeped out too.

    My bike is always has to be outside. At home it is covered, but still exposed to moist air etc. At work its sitting outside exposed to sun, rain and everything in between.

    I have Avid G2CS rotors 200/160mm which I always clean with acetone when putting new pads on.

    Questions that I have now:
    -Which pads are good alternatives for the B01S pads?

    -Does anyone have the same experience/issues with the B01S pads?

    -Is there an alternative bleed kit that I could use? The original TRP one is quite pricey...

    Hoping for some answers here. I admit that during the time they work, I love them and I would really like to get them back on the bike.

  22. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by cyclingdutchman View Post
    -Which pads are good alternatives for the B01S pads?
    I have used SwissStop and Superstar Kevlar. The SwissStop have more 'bite" but costs quite a bit.

    Quote Originally Posted by cyclingdutchman View Post
    -Is there an alternative bleed kit that I could use? The original TRP one is quite pricey...
    You don't need any bleed kit, do the topping off procedure as in the above video.

    1. Remove pads
    2. Insert the bleed block: either use a Shimano bleed block (Y-8J712000) or make one yourself with bits of old plastic cards
    3. Level the caliper
    4. Wrap in paper to catch overflow
    5. Remove the top cap
    6. Pump the caliper
    7. Fill it up with Shimano/TRP mineral oil for brakes
    8. Put on rubber sea and top cap
    9. Clean with isopropyl alcohol


    If the old pads are contaminated and/or squealing and not braking well you can throw them out or try the following: Clean with isopropyl. Sand the brake pads. Heat/burn the brake pads with flame (cheap crme brl burner worked for me). Clean the discs with isopropyl. Sand the discs. Install and bed in the brake pads again.

    Contaminated pads - eliminate disc brake squeal: Tech Tuesday - Silence That Squeaky Disc Brake - Pinkbike

    DIY bleed block: How to Make a Bleed Block/Pad Spacer | Epic Bleed Solutions

    Shimano bleed block (cannot go all the way in, but works)
    Anyone Here Using TRP HYRD's?-shimano-entlueftungs-distanzstueck-fuer-2-kolben-b-58427fc6fb0b633f573cdc0961f7ca5c.jpg

    Quote Originally Posted by cyclingdutchman View Post
    I have Avid G2CS rotors 200/160mm which I always clean with acetone when putting new pads on.I have Avid G2CS rotors 200/160mm which I always clean with acetone when putting new pads on.
    Use isopropyl aclohol instead, it leaves less risidue.

  23. #73
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    Hi tietze,

    Thanks a lot for your extensive reply. Will go through all the instructions over the next time. I just ordered swissstop organic pads, type disc 15 should fit.

    One question though just to be sure: One of my pistons once fell out (my fault), to refill them I really do NOT need a bleed kit??

    Thanks again, positive reputation given.

  24. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by cyclingdutchman View Post
    One question though just to be sure: One of my pistons once fell out (my fault), to refill them I really do NOT need a bleed kit??
    No, just pump them to remove air bubbles, but be sure to put in a bleed block to get the right amount of mineral oil in and prevent it falling out again. Maybe some silicone grease on the sides of the piston.

  25. #75
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    I've got them on my 2014 Diamondback Century. Set them up per the instructions. Broke them in (burned in) using the instructions on pinkbike and have had no issues. Rode all last season on them, no worries and no readjustments. May have the newer ones but that doesn't seem likely (based on age of bike). Rear is slightly softer than front but not problematic. My bike has the140mm discs and road tires, so not a apples to apples comparison perhaps.
    The most expensive bike in the world is still cheaper than the cheapest open heart surgery.

  26. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by cyclingdutchman View Post
    One question though just to be sure: One of my pistons once fell out (my fault), to refill them I really do NOT need a bleed kit??
    While I agree that you don't need a bleed kit with these brakes (and I haven't had a need to bleed them at all since getting working calipers), I would talk to TRP support about the piston having come out. That could be causing a problem with the seals.

  27. #77
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    I've used the original SRAM hydros (the recalled ones). They were better than anything cable actuated at the time, but nothing compared to the XT/685/785 brakes from Shimano. Haven't tried the new SRAM offerings, I imagine they're good but they're too expensive for me to try them.

    I've also used the HyRd brakes and find them to be, in many ways, the best of both worlds. They work much better than BB7s, even better than the original SRAM hydros IMO. Not as nice as the Shimano offerings, but unless you're using the 785 version, you're stuck with that goofy shifting issue with the small lever not working if there's even the slightest pressure on the big lever, which of course is common when trying to shift on a CX bike.

    Biggest selling point for me, drum roll... you can use them with any shifters you want, or no shifters at all.

  28. #78
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    Thanks for the tips again

    I currently have the TRP Spyres installed which use the same type of shimano compatible pad. The new Swisstop pads arrived yesterday, were installed and broken in immediately. Braking power is now a bit better, when I squeeze hard, I can lock up the rear wheel. Still I expected a bit more. I did not sand the rotors yet though. Will try that tonight or tomorrow.

    BTW this is how I came up with the pads issue. I thought the Hy/Rds's were leaking some oil and contaminating the pads, but I had the same issue with the Spyres as well, even with new pads and cleaned rotors. That is where I realised that it had to be the B01S pads themselves. Still strange though, I believe even in this thread I have read that they perform flawlessly in dry, wet and muddy conditions over months.....ah well, I always seem to have something "special"

    Will probably install 1 Hy/Rd caliper next weekend. One is working and will try to get the other one going as well, If I make it to the LBS to get some mineral oil. Otherwise I will contact the TRP support to see if they can help me.

    I'll keep you all posted.

  29. #79
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    What cables are installed for the brake calipers?

  30. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by tietze View Post
    What cables are installed for the brake calipers?
    I have jagwire pro compressionless cables and housings. Mostly renewed a month ago.

  31. #81
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    TRP HyRd user here. Been using it for more than a year on my Cooper cx. Not impressed at all. Inconsistent, and take an awful lot of lever effort from my older 105 levers. But maybe that is partly the levers fault. Just seems like my cable discs never deliver a smooth controllable braking action, like it is going to lock up and judder on me all the time.

    I am switching to the new 105 full hydraulic discs now. I have XT brakes on my Mtn bike and absolutely love them - telepathic, effortless and smooth. Want that on the Cx bike too!

  32. #82
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    Older 105 levers are quite terrible to use from hoods imo, it's hard to get leverage from there.

    I have HyRd:s too (2015 models which were said to be improved from older model). They are an improvement to Shimano BR-CX77 brakes though which I had earlier - much better braking force especially in wet conditions (with same brake discs).

    EDIT If I had to rate them from 1 to 5 where (2013) Shimano 105 levers+BR-CX77 brakes would get 1/5 points and Sram Rival hydros would get 5/5 points then 105/HyRd would get 3/5 points. (no experience of Shimano hydros)
    Last edited by kyttyra; 03-24-2016 at 06:07 AM.

  33. #83
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    I just wanted to throw in my two cents. I have about 1k on my HY RD's that came with a MY2015 bike and finally have them to where they are pretty impressive. For reference, I also have XT brakes on one bike and the recent 685 hydraulic system on another bike. I know what strong brakes should feel like and finally have the HY RD's pretty close if not there. They have less lever pull than my 685's and the power is getting much closer as well after everything below.

    I am using Ultegra 6800 levers with the HY RD's. Here's where I went wrong and also what I changed:

    1) Those barrel adjusters are probably where half their customer service calls probably come from. Even with them adjusted tight enough to barely screw in the 'stopper' of the actuator arm, that's still enough to close off the system. Even though I was sure I had it open enough to compensate, it was still closed. For those just setting up, error on the 'loose' side of cable tension. If the system is open, you shouldn't have to worry about levers hitting the bar.

    2) Do the top-off procedure. This will eliminate any excess throw. Take our your pads, put a bleed block in there. Actuate the arm a few times (with the block in place!) to work out any bubbles or slack in the system. Add the TRP oil (Or Shimano mineral oil is the same thing) until it is 'topped off.' Put the lid back on and there should be a little bit of oil running down the side since you overfilled the reservoir. You don't really need the bleed kit to do all this. Spray rubbing alcohol and clean up the ENTIRE caliper. Do it again. And again. If even a hint of brake oil ends up on your pads or rotors, your brake will suffer. Check out 2:15 of the following video for a visual walk through. The entire video is really good though. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LNaj5l8hUEY


    3) Compressionless housing. OEM housing is getting worse and worse, so that's probably the first upgrade for ANY bike sold now. I'm a big fan of Jagwire compressionless. I have tried Yokozuna and it was too difficult to work with around tight bends and even the handlebars.

    4) Those stock pads were okay, but didn't do well in the wet. I tried a couple pairs of Truckerco pads and they sucked a little less in the wet, but no better in the dry. Just buy the Swisstop Disc 15 pads. They work so much better. There's also a new TRP pad I just started using that's great.

    5) Rotors with lots of holes wouldn't work well. Older Hayes Mud Cutter Rotors worked well. TRP has a 6 bolt version of their TRP 25 rotor that works REALLY well. They are calling it their new 29'er rotor, but I don't see it on the website yet.

    6) Call TRP. Dave Biehler was incredibly helpful. He was one of the coolest people I have talked to from any manufacturer. TRP also has a new pad compound not seen on their website yet. It works VERY well with the new rotors.

    Hopefully those new pads start shipping with HY RD units. Thanks to TRP for your help!

  34. #84
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    I love my HyRd's, used with compressionless Jaguar housing. but anyone have any ideas on getting ride of the squeel I have on the fronts? Maybe I touched (with dirt or oil)the rotors or something during install?.

  35. #85
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    Wow. After reading this thread I'm glad I went with the Hope V-twin. Much less hassle, even taking into account shortening the lines. No bleed necessary, just clipped off the excess hose, installed fresh olives and barb fittings and screwed back together. No bubbles, no fade, even on crazy steep and long descents. I seriously considered the TRP, but based on what I've read it seems like more trouble than it's worth.

  36. #86
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    @Pgm83: THANK YOU for your extensive and very helpful posting!

  37. #87
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    Interesting reading, didn't realize these weren't as good for others as they have been for me. I've got a few thousand miles on my fall 2014 bike and they have been great since day one. Lots of on road/off road, wet and dry, summer and winter riding and no issues at all. Their matched up with 5700 105 brifters which seem to work just fine.

  38. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by michaelrm View Post
    Interesting reading, didn't realize these weren't as good for others as they have been for me. I've got a few thousand miles on my fall 2014 bike and they have been great since day one. Lots of on road/off road, wet and dry, summer and winter riding and no issues at all. Their matched up with 5700 105 brifters which seem to work just fine.

    The second generation HY/RDs are money. Lots of miles over crazy terrain and haven't had a problem. I think the first generation were only on the market for one season and TRP swapped mine out at no charge. Thanks TRP for standing behind your products.

    I would definitely recommend these brakes.
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  39. #89
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    Yeah, the new generation is much better. It was a night/day difference almost but compression-less housing is almost must for them.

  40. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by EddieSmirckx View Post
    Wow. After reading this thread I'm glad I went with the Hope V-twin. Much less hassle, even taking into account shortening the lines. No bleed necessary, just clipped off the excess hose, installed fresh olives and barb fittings and screwed back together. No bubbles, no fade, even on crazy steep and long descents. I seriously considered the TRP, but based on what I've read it seems like more trouble than it's worth.
    I'm not sure if I would call it a hassle. Most of it comes down to not closing off the system (it's too easy to do) and using compressionless housing. I'm not familiar with the Hopes though. Maybe they are the bee's knees.

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  41. #91
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    ^^^Walk me through "closing off the system" please. What is the "stopper" on the actuator arm?
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  42. #92
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    Quote Originally Posted by TiGeo View Post
    ^^^Walk me through "closing off the system" please. What is the "stopper" on the actuator arm?
    They say the barrel adjuster has about 1.5 turns before it closes off the system.

    I've had my HYRDs for quite some time now, the new style, and I love them. Solid stopping power and no brake rub.
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  43. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Pink57 View Post
    They say the barrel adjuster has about 1.5 turns before it closes off the system.

    I've had my HYRDs for quite some time now, the new style, and I love them. Solid stopping power and no brake rub.
    Yep - got that part, the part that I can't seem to get info on is the little allen screw inside the actuator arm that gives you great pad grab adjustment...but TRP says don't touch it and I realize it likely closes off the system.
    Geologist by trade...bicycle mechanic (former) by the grace of God!

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