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  1. #1
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    2014 Rove or JTS?

    Planning to test ride both this weekend, then buy one. I love konas (own 2 MTB), but have been wanting a cross bike forever.

    I don't plan to Mount racks, i do plan on a few century rides. Maybe some single track, otherwise road/paved trail use. maybe next year might try a race, well see.

    I have no idea how the group sets compare and am confused on that, also not sure of I can run tubeless in the factory setup.

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  2. #2
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    just my 2cents: the rove weighs a lot more. that gives it a bit of a freight train effect once you get it rolling which is great on gravel.

    rove will be like riding a dh bike on trails- awesome "fire and forget" bash through the potholes fun, jts will be like riding a xc racebike- so anything that requires you to bash over stuff will have you dancing, but it's your call for quicker handling fun.
    If steel is real then aluminium is supercallafragiliniun!

  3. #3
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    How about the shifters/detailers? I have never used SRAM anything before.

    Anyone know the weight of the new Rove? I heard it lost some weight. I'm not looking for sub 20 or anything like that

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  4. #4
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    I was in the market for a CX / gravel bike this spring. I couldn't get past the Rove's weight. Has huge tubes for steel. It's a tank. Ended up with a JTS.
    '02 Kona Bear - '01 Schwinn Homegrown Comp - '12 Giant Defy 1 - '14 Kona Jake the Snake

  5. #5
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    I am a weak old guy, so I would think that the Rove is way too heavy for racing cross. It is great, however, for single track and gravel. It is an excellent descender. The Sram works fine, but it also works like low level sram. I am having issue with noise off the front brake; I think the only solution at this point is to face the disc tab, which does not look that straight. I think Kona needs to do a better job with placing the shifter housing stops further down on the down tube; it is a tight mess going around that fat head tube. The bike has a short reach and short stem and a bit of a high BB for gravel, I think, but a plus on single track. It has taken me longer to get use to this bike than any other, but all my other road and mountain bikes have been stretched out and speed orientated. I have changed out a few parts, but none of the drive train or wheels. Not sure how heavy it is, around 25 easily. I really only feel the weight on the climbs and I am a good climber. The stock gearing is sufficiently low. Overall, it is a great and fun bike and I have beat the crap out of it. It is starting to look like it a bit, but with my maintanance it still rides like new.

  6. #6
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    Thanks.

    I haven't ever had a road bike and am coming off a 2003 Kikapu that was about 2 sizes to small for me, so i think i will feel stretched out on either.

    Im really leaning towards jts because i have always wanted one, but it might change. Going to ride a few tomorrow. Maybe i will end up on a giant tcx slr2. Or all city macho man, so im hoping my kona love doesn't force me to not like anything else.

    Also really want the secondary brake levers, not sure what they are called at this point. What does everyone else do if you dont have your hands down and need to brake quick?




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  7. #7
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    The brakes work pretty well from the hoods; even on technical terrain that would only require slowing down I find myself riding the hoods or risking it a bit on just the tops. Anything sketchy, and I have taken my Rove off some rather technical stuff, I am always in the drops. I am use to a large saddle to bar drop, and with the short reach on the Rove, I find it easy to be in the drops. During your test ride you should probably see how comfortable your are in the drops. Bent over while trying to avoid rocks, roots, and ruts can be pretty rough on the lower back.

  8. #8
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    Will do, any other advice on what to specifically look for during the test ride? I test rode a few last summer, but can't even remember what I liked or what to look for fit wise on a road bike. Now I have the cash in hand so I will be buying

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  9. #9
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    I have a 2008 Major Jake, 2013 Jake, 2013 JtS, 2006 Kula and 1999 Muni Mula, so don't count on me talking you out of your Kona fixation.

    For CX racing, the JtS is the better choice. It's lighter and a bit more nimble. The Rove is more about stability and comfort. I believe the Rove also has a bit more tire clearance. Either one is plenty tough. The JtS is Di2 ready, so that tells you something about its target market.

    Personally, I really like the Jake-series geometry. I commute 20-miles round trip on my Jake and have used it for 50+ mile gravel rides. I mention this so as not to give the impression that it would be bad for centuries and such. On the other hand, I have a friend who has a Ti Rove, and he loves it for just about any type of ride.

    I've heard people claim that Apex is at about the same level of quality as 105, but mostly from SRAM fans. Really SRAM vs. Shimano is a very personal choice. Both work great, but they're fairly different.

  10. #10
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    Keep in mind that the Rove is not really a road bike, or a cross bike, or a gravel bike, or a mountain bike. A fit-wise limitation is that they don't have much extra steer tube to work with, so you might not be able to get the bars much lower or especially higher with the stock stem. The Rove has room for wider tires, I think, which has been fun for me. But if you really think you are going to race cross, better lift the bikes side to side. The Rove is heavy. If it were not, I would already be on my second fork. I like Sram better for mountain and Shimano better for every thing else. It takes a bit more effort to shift the Apex front (I find the front mech stiff and brute and cheap) while the rear is better. Still, I don't think about the shifting much. Please post what you get.

  11. #11
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    Will do!

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    2003 Kona Kikapu

  12. #12
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    Well I only rode a 56 & 59 rove, and a 59 JTS. They all feel very stretched out for me, but I am used to my 18" Kikapu and probably should have a 20". Honestly to me they pretty much felt the same. The 56 rove had me the most upright.

    I liked the both roves but didn't like the shifters, I liked that I wasn't quite as stretched out on it ( more likev what I am used too). For ride quality I couldn't tell much difference over a 5 min ride, maybe over 60+, but obviously I didn't have that luxury. W/o pedals the 59 rove weighed 26lbs, really not to bad!

    I ended up buying the JTS, bought a shorter stem and they flipped it for me. That helped. I think I just need to adjust to the lower overall positioning. I liked the lower weight. I might try racing next year after I drop some more weight.

    Brakes on both were the same, both seem really weak to me, but I am used to shimano hydro's. Bike shop guys said they will get better as they burn in, I hope so, or I will get the trp ( I think that's the brand) cable hydro combo

    I need to get used to drops, I still want those secondary brake levers, salsa cowbells are very intriguing to me. Might find some faster tires too.

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  13. #13
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    The brakes on my JTS were quite disappointing at first. Then they bedded in. I can do stoppies now. They are plenty strong. Give them time......

    And Cowbells are AWESOME. The drops are so comfy. The drops are significantly wider than equivalent width conventional drop bars.
    '02 Kona Bear - '01 Schwinn Homegrown Comp - '12 Giant Defy 1 - '14 Kona Jake the Snake

  14. #14
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    How do i size them out? Everyone pretty much says cowbells are awesome so i really want them.

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  15. #15
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    The part of the bars where the levers attach are sized the same as normal road bars. I.e., a 42 cowbell will be the same as a normal 42 road bar. It's the drops that are so different. The ends are flared, and end up ~5cm or 2" wider than an equivalent normal road bar.

    When I first got the JTS, and the trail/road got sketchy, I always wished for wider bars. So I got 44's to replace the 42's. The levers are out just a tad wider, and the drops are super wide. Perfect....
    '02 Kona Bear - '01 Schwinn Homegrown Comp - '12 Giant Defy 1 - '14 Kona Jake the Snake

  16. #16
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    Thanks

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  17. #17
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    keep in mind that to hold onto drops that are flared out probably will require you to bend over even a little further (unless the drop on the cowbells are less than the stock). Still, you should find the wider grip more stable. If these are your first drop bars just give it time. Off road on drop bars is just fun. As Manning stated, the brakes will get better. I have a 160mm rotor in the back which has never left me wanting for more power. The pads have such a small surface area that they don't last long in the wet, but somehow they last pretty well under fair conditions. Hayes brand pads for these brakes are really affordable. Have fun.

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