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  1. #1
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    2014 Kona JTS, max front rotor size & Tubeless

    can I put a 180mm on the front? anyway other than calling Kona to find out if this is possible or advisable?

    the official Kona specs say Tubeless ready. what does that mean exactly? what would be required to make it tubeless
    2003 Kona Kikapu

  2. #2
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    A 180 will fit with a 180 adapter/mount. Not sure why you would want to...... My JTS will do 1 finger stoppies. with everything stock (I did put Dura Ace 9000 cable on).

    I didn't have much luck with Clement USH tires on the JTS rims and stans's CX kit. I think it was mostly the tires, as the Cements have "tread" in the bead, and they leaked badly. Then one of my USH's had a very porous sidewall. I went back to tubes. Sooo much easier.
    '02 Kona Bear (R.I.P) - '01 Schwinn Homegrown Comp - '12 Giant Defy 1 - '14 Kona Jake the Snake

  3. #3
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    EBC brake pads are cheaper then a rotor and adaptor and , in my experience, are much more effective.

  4. #4
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    How many miles/stops until the brakes will work well? I only have maybe 15 miles, but close to 100 stops and they still suck.
    I am 240lbs and shrinking

    Tubeless? With the right tire and stans/similar it is tubeless ready? Does it require the rim tape?

    Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk
    2003 Kona Kikapu

  5. #5
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    Mine took quite a while to bed in, maybe 75 miles, possibly more. But they are quite good now. But I'm only ~170 lbs.
    '02 Kona Bear (R.I.P) - '01 Schwinn Homegrown Comp - '12 Giant Defy 1 - '14 Kona Jake the Snake

  6. #6
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    My goal weight is 200. I'm down 40 in the last 9 months. I guess we will see. My kikapu with the hydro disc and only 140mm brakes stops way better than these brakes.



    Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk
    2003 Kona Kikapu

  7. #7
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    New brakes/pads/rotors should be "burned in". This is done before regular use and is done by going to a flat surface and decelerating from roughly 15 mph to 2mph 20 to 30 times.

  8. #8
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    After 100 stops, the brakes are probably about as good as they're going to get.

    I offer the following observations:

    -Light riders don't understand the difference in braking that big guys experience. I weigh ~200 pounds. I've got TRP HY/RD brakes on my Jake with a 180 front rotor. It stops pretty well, but I'm rarely in danger of skidding the front wheel accidentally.

    -Road brake levers don't have the leverage of flat bar levers. Are you braking from the hoods? If so, you are probably applying pressure pretty close to the pivot point of the lever. Unless you have really long fingers, this may just be a fact of life. The farther down the lever you can apply pressure, the better the response will be, but chances are you won't match the pull you can put on a MTB lever.

    -Mechanical disc brakes don't perform as well as hydraulics. I haven't used the Hayes CX brakes, but I haven't heard any reviews that lead me to believe they are significantly better than the BB7's that I have used. Compressionless-brake cable housing helps a lot, but I believe the brakes you have only move one pad and so they are very sensitive to precise set up.


    I'd say give yourself some time to adjust to the different feel and response of braking on a CX bike. It will probably never brake like your mountain bike, but you may get used to that. If not, maybe explore some of the hydraulic options becoming available.

  9. #9
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    I was able to get the front adjusted well. The back doesn't adjust as nicely. Both will lock the wheel now with 1/2 the travel to the bar.
    I think the rear still feels squishy, maybe it is the longer cable? I also can't seem to move the rear to get it centered better.

    Trp hyrdos might still be in my future, for at least the rear.
    Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk
    2003 Kona Kikapu

  10. #10
    jrm
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    The dual piston TRP skypes made a world of difference over the bb7s i had on the bike before. The bb7s would fade like crap and glaze over making um damn near dangerous on long descents. Also the trp stuff is a lot easier to center and set up since you can draw both pads in and out unlike the bb7s stationary-adjustable pad set up. Im using a 160 up front and a 140 in back.

  11. #11
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    Thanks definetly a better option.

    Finally got my brakes where i like them for now. Handled 8% grades today fairly well. One corner i wish i had a bit more power but overall I'm happy for now

    Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
    2003 Kona Kikapu

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