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  1. #1
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    2013 CAADX Disc Fork/Brake Problem

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2013 CAADX Disc Fork/Brake Problem-photo-3.jpg  

    Last edited by HillegassCX; 07-17-2013 at 02:57 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by HillegassCX View Post
    I have a brand new '13 Cannondale CAADX Disc Ultegra 54" There seems to be a premature and destructive grinding going on between the hub locknut and the front fork end when the front brake is applied. Photo below.

    A chatter/vibration clued me in, and it's not any normal rotor or assembly chatter. It's a fast repetitive grinding/flexing noise, and when speed is reduced enough, you can actually see the fork ends shudder.

    Stopping power is not affected, skewers have always been tight (very tight now) but the noise, grinding, and shudder persist. I'm 6', 185 lbs so I'm not a featherweight, and am wondering if somehow this disc and carbon fork combo just went south.

    As I mentioned, it's brand new, and it's been in the hills less than a dozen times. I've removed and inspected the front wheel and rotor less than a dozen times. Rotor is true and the Bengal brakes are fine - but somehow the stresses are transferring and twisting the forkend enough to do this damage. Hub is fine, albeit with some visible wear on the knurling/teeth of the locknut.

    Outside side nearest to brake/rotor assembly also has a bit more wear than I'd expect from a 2 month old bike, but nowhere near the hub side of the fork end. Thoughts people?

    2013 CAADX Disc Fork/Brake Problem-photo-3.jpg

    That "damage" looks like stripped paint from removing the hub a few times. Nothing major and it's bound to happen on any bike that has painted clamping surfaces which it shouldn't have. Doesn't have anything to do with the brake in my opinion.
    I have never seen a bike that would have perfect paint finish on the hub attachment surface after several wheel removals and installs.

    Brake shudder or shaking is completely brake related thing and the little paint scratch is not related to that. You want to start by adjusting the brakes properly and making sure everything is tightened properly. Including the rotor to the hub and the hub to the fork.

    Disc brake shudder is usually related to the holes on the brake rotor. Very uneven rotors will have greater shudder because when the pads run over the hole they suddenly have less friction area to grab onto which results in less braking power for a brief moment. This can be felt as jerking or shudder when under heavy braking.

    Grinding sound is most audible when metallic (hard compound) pads are used in conjunction with rotors that have many large holes. Harder pad materials make more sound under braking, but do not wear out as fast as softer compounds.
    For the most silent braking you want to have evenly cutout rotors with fairly small holes and soft brake pad compound. Also mechanical brake adjustment is quite critical so you don't end up with huge amounts of sideways bend on the rotor while braking which could add its own effects.

    What rotors do you have? And what brake pad compound is in use?

    Also most forks will bend slightly under braking. If your brake is going from 80% power to say 60% power due to holes in the rotor even for a brief portion of a second it will let the fork try to regain its unbent shape. When this happens on and off all the time you can see the fork flexing back and forth.

    I'm running Shimano RT-76 (Deore XT) rotors with Avid Elixir 5 brakes and metallic pad compound. They make grinding noises under heavy braking, but damn do they bite hard and brake effectively.
    Same rotors on my other bikes with Avid Elixir CR or X0 brakes with softer compound do not make even nearly as much noise as the metallic pad.
    My bike with the metallic pads has a carbon fork which flexes alot more compared to my other bike with a stiffer aluminium fork and softer pad compound. The alu fork also flexes under braking, but considerably less than the carbon one.

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    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2013 CAADX Disc Fork/Brake Problem-photo-1.jpg  

    Last edited by HillegassCX; 07-17-2013 at 02:56 PM.

  4. #4
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    Hey, just wanted to let you know you're not alone here. Same situation 54in frame 6' 185. Within the first 5min of owning it I grabbed a handful of front brake and the whole wheel went sideways in the fork and ripped the tabs right off. Took it back, Cannondale sent the lbs a new fork.

    Happened again within a few rides.... so my solution.

    I assume it occurred because of the carbon shedding the paint paired with this bike being a first of it's kind (carbon fork *non-ballistic* with disc brakes).
    With the wheel on I scored the paint where it hadn't been ripped off. Removed the wheel, was VERY surprised with how easily it flaked off.
    I probably voided a warranty in doing so but my guess was the QR should have a flat surface to apply even pressure & at this point, would they even give me a 3rd fork without issuing a recall? So I guess we'll have to hope enough consumers complain.
    Anyways, I lathered the damaged side with epoxy let it cure for a few & then cranked the QR on there. It formed nicely to the little teeth and inside of the QR. After it dried I built up the tabs at the bottom a bit & around the QR cause I don't want it to let go when it counts lol..
    So yeah it's been fine for a few weeks now, I've not crushed the brake nor have I been afraid to use it.
    Hope this helps. And I hope we get a recall fix, cause this sucks on a $2000 bike...

  5. #5
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    Last edited by HillegassCX; 07-17-2013 at 02:54 PM.

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    A whole new frame? Wonder what that's all about.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Echo22 View Post
    A whole new frame? Wonder what that's all about.
    With frames and forks becoming increasingly proprietary, most framesets are frame & fork together. Only one part number to inventory.

  8. #8
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    I only got a fork, not a whole frame :-/

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    I was having brake shudder issues (especially on the front disc) and I simply tightened up the thru-axle and it fixed it. Thanks for your help.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by HillegassCX View Post
    I have a brand new '13 Cannondale CAADX Disc Ultegra 54" There seems to be a premature and destructive grinding going on between the hub locknut and the front fork end when the front brake is applied. Photo below.

    A chatter/vibration clued me in, and it's not any normal rotor or assembly chatter. It's a fast repetitive grinding/flexing noise, and when speed is reduced enough, you can actually see the fork ends shudder.

    Stopping power is not affected, skewers have always been tight (very tight now) but the noise, grinding, and shudder persist. I'm 6', 185 lbs so I'm not a featherweight, and am wondering if somehow this disc and carbon fork combo just went south.

    As I mentioned, it's brand new, and it's been in the hills less than a dozen times. I've removed and inspected the front wheel and rotor less than a dozen times. Rotor is true and the Bengal brakes are fine - but somehow the stresses are transferring and twisting the forkend enough to do this damage. Hub is fine, albeit with some visible wear on the knurling/teeth of the locknut.

    Outside side nearest to brake/rotor assembly also has a bit more wear than I'd expect from a 2 month old bike, but nowhere near the hub side of the fork end. Thoughts people?

    Click image for larger version. 

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    My fork on my Cantilever'd 2013 CAADX-Tiagra looks the same there... but that was from tightening down the fork mount rack too much.

    All I can say is... have the LBS get in touch with Cannondale. Maybe there is a design flaw or manufacturing flaw...

  11. #11
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    This is what forward facing dropouts are for.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dirty $anchez View Post
    This is what forward facing dropouts are for.
    Such a simple concept and still new forks arrive with rear or straight facing dropouts..
    lean forward

  13. #13
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    Same Issue - wheel pulled across, fork leg damaged.

    I have had exactly the same problem with my CAADX and it has sheared of the 'Lawyers Lugs' but only on the left hand fork leg.The first sign of hard braking pulled the wheel across and I was lucky not have an accident as I was travelling at 30mph plus.

    Cannondale UK are denying any sort of material or manufacturing failure at present, so the bike has to go back to the shop for investigation. 1500 for 3 weeks of usage, and no offer of a demo while mine is away.

    Update to Saga:
    Cannondale agreed to replace my fork, and returned it to the shop eventually. They gave strict instructions to give me guidance in how to set skewers with reference to the manual. I requested testing the bike before taking it away or even touching the skewer, set by the shop to Cannondale's instructions. Upon riding the bike in the car park and under moderate braking the wheel moved across again. The mechanic reset the wheel and tried it himself, it moved again. The shop after liaison with Cannondale gave me my money back in full. Cannondale have the bike back now, they are investigating the issue, I am awaiting a response.

    So back to bike hunting, but it won't be a Cannondale as there are no changes to the fork for next year 2014.

    Maybe a Giant as they have fitted a 15mm bolt through axle for 2014, there will be no wheel movement with that.


    2013 CAADX Disc Fork/Brake Problem-cannondale-fork-pictures-004.jpg2013 CAADX Disc Fork/Brake Problem-cannondale-fork-pictures-007.jpg
    Last edited by rpeter30; 07-31-2013 at 02:08 PM. Reason: Update to Saga

  14. #14
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    You guys are getting your paint scraped off the dropouts and you demand new forks? What? Just gotta keep those skewers tight!

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudrock View Post
    You guys are getting your paint scraped off the dropouts and you demand new forks? What? Just gotta keep those skewers tight!
    Don't be a clown, any tighter and I'm either crushing carbon or stripping the QR.

  16. #16
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    Last edited by HillegassCX; 07-17-2013 at 02:52 PM.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by HillegassCX View Post
    Echo22, agreed.

    LBS still waiting on the fork from C'dale. Swapped front/rear brake assemblies just to rule out the Bengals. The grinding and noise stopped for a few minutes during a test ride but then came back...

    I switched to Ashima rotors mainly for aesthetic reasons, also dropped a little weight & got a nice even grab ;-)
    In the pic you can also see my epoxy job over the 'lawyer lugs'.

    Attachment 809842

    And a few pics of it turned into a road bike :-P

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  18. #18
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    Just a question guys, you are both 6'0 tall and are riding 54's?

    I am the same height and am looking at the 58 based on specs for the TT length.

    I haven't ridden it yet.
    Mike
    Toronto, Canada
    2014 Giant TCX SLR2
    2013 Trek Stache 8
    2011 Giant Defy Advanced 0

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Swerny View Post
    Just a question guys, you are both 6'0 tall and are riding 54's?

    I am the same height and am looking at the 58 based on specs for the TT length.

    I haven't ridden it yet.




    I'm 6'2" and ride a 58 cm. I would probably put you on a 56 cm, you might want to try one out.

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    This bike was at the top of my shopping list until I saw this thread. Then Giant came out with new bikes with hydraulics, front thru axles, and internal cables. Glad I waited.

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