Is doing this one up for me, in ti. Ok, wll not him, but his farmed out builders, XACD. Burly ti frame for a price I can stomach. No, this thread is not intended to be a domestic vs. overseas thread. If you want t6o turn it into one, go to F=88 and slum it about. I"ve had Gene do work for me before, his own, in steel. Been very happy with the results, and trust him to make sure this gets done right.
A near clone size and geometry wise of my steel Peyto frame. Which I really, really love. But it has a couple dents that I'm not too happy with, and was going to need a repaint/fresh Frame Savering this winter. Just decided to get the burly ti bike I've wanted instead. The Peyto and the old Pike fork will end up getting sold after this thing gets here, and so long as it works out for me after a few test rides.
TT 1/2" longer, and headtube 1/2" taller. Same everything else, though with the ability to lengthen the stays a bit with the sliding drops. Or go with a Rohloff if wanted later. Gusseted front end, ringed headtube, and disc brake rear end. larger diamater seat tube with an insert to downsize to 27.2mm seatpost. Larger diamater top and downtubes, and chainstays. Chain and downtube also with 0.3mm thicker walls. Still lotsa' fatty tire room. Zip tie cable/hose runs throughout, two bottle mounts (though the seattube will likely only fit a small bottle or a light battery) and a chain hanger. I love those things, and they aren't often found on new frames anymore.
Should come in a pound lighter than the Peyto frame, be just as durable, and not have to ever worry about any corrosion now that I'm living and riding in a much more wet environment. Not as easy to fix as steel, should there be a problem, but much more doable to repair than aluminum. The alrger tubing ought to keep things stiff, but yet it still should be a fairly springy frame. Bolt through rear axle helps a bit with that in back, too.
Deposit is paid, and Gene has quoted me 4-5 weeks...
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