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  1. #101
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    Quote Originally Posted by Deme Moore
    That's what I'm talking about. So the dude who bought a Porsche got ripped off because there's a Corvette available for half off? What about things like craftsmanship or design?

    If somebody with money sneers at the budget bikes people call them a snob. What do you call someone who finds it important to point how stupid everyone is for not pinching pennies? Not everyone's priorities are the same nor are their budgets. I'm pretty sure the guy who bought a $3000 bike didn't do so with their last penny. And if they did I applaud them for being hardcore and getting exactly what they wanted even if it gets plopped on a $300 Hyundai to drive to the trails!

    I'm not going to argue with anyone about who is or isn't a "real" biker. This kind of nonsense happens with every recreational pursuit I involve myself with. What I will say is anyone who is concerned about how much or how little they spent is missing the point.

    And no, you can't take all that money you saved with you when you die!

    That's taken out of context. Seriously, which would you buy if there's a ferrari and a hyundai and $$$ isn't a problem? Obviously, the ferrari. You need pay so much more for the technology, status and design because it's unique. I'm not saying you don't pay top dollar for it's worth. Heck.. I'll pay $10k for a bike if it's worth it. But if you compare side to side with bikes, it's pretty simple... they use almost the same components out there, their design are more or less the same and I wouldn't be surprised if they were all from the same factory in Taiwan. Unless one that has a really good design, rigidity and ultralite... really out of the norm, yes.. top $$$ for it. Truly agree, I can't take all that I saved when I die but I can sure put it to good use.

    Spend where it's worth it not blindly paying Besides this thread is about Razzo so I'm not going to go out of line

  2. #102
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ronnie
    Why should I or anyone else take advice from someone who believes it is adequate to use just a back brake. When you apply a brake, front or rear about 75% of your weight transfers onto the front wheel. All you are going to do is skid your back wheel and rip up the trail, not to mention the lack of control using just a rear brake.

    It is obvious that you know very little about biking.

    Ronnie.
    You don't have to take my advice. Everyone develops their own style, mine's that way. I can't say it'll fit you. I won't say rear braking lacks control, it's just when and how you use it. I do XC so it doesn't really matter that much whether it's front or rear. Even in DH, front is seldomly use anyway, I don't even use front during wheelies. Braking is an art by itself and seriously it's quite subjective on the usage.

  3. #103
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    Quote Originally Posted by spyglass
    You don't have to take my advice. Everyone develops their own style, mine's that way. I can't say it'll fit you. I won't say rear braking lacks control, it's just when and how you use it. I do XC so it doesn't really matter that much whether it's front or rear. Even in DH, front is seldomly use anyway, I don't even use front during wheelies. Braking is an art by itself and seriously it's quite subjective on the usage.
    I think you will find an almost complete consensus on this forum about how much more useful front brakes are. Physics aren't that subjective, and there will be people ready to jump with lots of info

    I'm not even sure you could brake strong enough for DH using just the rear brake. There's a reason they are all using 8" front rotors

  4. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by spyglass
    Even in DH, front is seldomly use anyway, I don't even use front during wheelies. Braking is an art by itself and seriously it's quite subjective on the usage.
    You are not really serious! Then why do most DH bikes have 203mm. rotors on the front wheel. Some DH forks will only take an 8" rotor.

    Why would you be using your front brake when you are on your back wheel?

    Ronnie.
    The trouble with having an open mind is that people will insist on trying to put things in it.

  5. #105
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    Quote Originally Posted by boomn
    I think you will find an almost complete consensus on this forum about how much more useful front brakes are. Physics aren't that subjective, and there will be people ready to jump with lots of info

    I'm not even sure you could brake strong enough for DH using just the rear brake. There's a reason they are all using 8" front rotors
    Well... if it's DH, then it's a must to equip both brakes. Anyway, basically it's just my personal riding flair to be on rear. Besides braking really is subjective and it's really on how much you feel about rides. Let's drop the brake topic as it's really not going to go anywhere since everyone differs. Some like this some don't.. why not just stay in line with the thread subject.

    So what's your razzo build?

  6. #106
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ronnie
    You are not really serious! Then why do most DH bikes have 203mm. rotors on the front wheel. Some DH forks will only take an 8" rotor.

    Why would you be using your front brake when you are on your back wheel?

    Ronnie.
    Well, it really depends on the trails. You do need to equip differently, besides I somehow sense you are quite critical of my riding style. Basically, I ride differently from you and our terrains we cycle are different. I can't say for sure that if I do your trails I'll go without front but nevertheless, you might find my trails useless for front. It really is different for each terrain. Besides I don't do DH now, more of a leisure XC rider.

  7. #107
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    Has anybody bothered to read this guys profile?

    He's just Fcuking with you...there is no way he can be serious, no one is that off center

    Sorry dude but your full of sh!t...I'll believe it when I see it, until then I'm calling you out as a phony

  8. #108
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    Quote Originally Posted by spyglass
    I'll be a saint here and disclose my components though I haven't done building completely yet (Too much work!!!). I will tell you how you can build a good and cheap sub 8kg 29er (excl. tires) and where to save and get these. I use SRAM X.9 because Shimano is heavier and I don't like the motion of their rear derailluer. It's really up to you.

    1) Buy a Sette Razzo from Pricepoint ard $200 now (Offer ends this march)
    2) Get yourself a build kit, SRAM X.9 from greenfishsports that'll cost you ard $250
    3) Get a carbon cycle fork from Carboncycle themselves for ard $165 (Personally I'm using the WB rigid carbon fork from treeforbikes ard $270 but I'll suggest you go with Jerry's fork)
    4) Get a crank bros egg beater SL from treeforbikes for ard $75
    5) Get yourself Sette cockpit 1 combo from Pricepoint for ard $85
    6) Get Maddux explorer T2 wheelset from Pricepoint for ard $170 (ard 2kg a pair!)
    7) Get a good rear disc brake BB7 from Greenfishsports for $38
    8) Get speed dial 7 from Greenfishsports for ard $16
    9) Get super lite foam grips for ard $5 from Pricepoint
    10) I pampered myself with a Sette air suspension seatpost from Pricepoint ard $35.
    11) Pay someone to build all these for you for ard $100 or you can be like me and build it slowly like lego. I love my childhood... kekeke
    <snip>
    Cheers...

    Well, I may be a front brake kinda guy, but I sure found your parts list w/ sources to be *very* helpful. Does anyone do anything similar w/ Shimano kits at a similar price?

    Thanks for taking the time!

  9. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by dog.gone
    Well, I may be a front brake kinda guy, but I sure found your parts list w/ sources to be *very* helpful. Does anyone do anything similar w/ Shimano kits at a similar price?

    Thanks for taking the time!
    Well... depends on your shimano build? U like SLX, XT or XTR build kits? I personally recommend the SLX and XT mix (Mechs on XT, Cranks on SLX). You can actually skip the XTR since it's not bang for buck. Entire SLX set (incl. of SLX disc brakes but excl. hubs) should be around US $655.

  10. #110
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    Mmmmyeahhh...

    Quote Originally Posted by spyglass
    I use SRAM X.9 because Shimano is heavier and I don't like the motion of their rear derailluer. It's really up to you.
    I'm pretty sure that SRAM stuff is generally heavier than Shimano stuff... not by a lot, usually like 10-20g per piece. Feel.... matter of opinion. All SRAM bikes I have ridden feel heavy and clunky in action. I can see why folks prefer SRAM, tho.

  11. #111
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    Quote Originally Posted by pimpbot
    I'm pretty sure that SRAM stuff is generally heavier than Shimano stuff... not by a lot, usually like 10-20g per piece. Feel.... matter of opinion. All SRAM bikes I have ridden feel heavy and clunky in action. I can see why folks prefer SRAM, tho.
    Nah.... Shimano is heavier for their mechs but I can't say which is better than which. To me it's a matter of preference. Shimano cranks and rapid rise are good though, and their stuff looks way cooler than SRAM. To be frank, if I were given to choose when $$$ isn't an issue... I will go with Shimano without thoughts... I am shallow... I love the bling look of that X. Wahaha...

  12. #112
    asa
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    My Razzo

    I like front and rear brakes
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  13. #113
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    asa any more pics of that thing?... realy diggin it
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  14. #114
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    Nice bike, your number is cool too.

  15. #115
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    So does anybody else have a ride report on the frame?

    I'm really considering buying this frame, but I just can't find many reviews online, and a lot of people that I've talked say to go with a more well known brand.

  16. #116
    asa
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    I just raced mine at Sea Otter. The bike was perfect. No issues. It built up with no problems at all. The frame was straight, the threads were clean and the ride is amazing. It handles a bit quicker than the Felt that I demoed, and actually feels more like my 26" bikes as far as steering, but the stability blows the 26's away. I am 5'9" and weigh 140, so I cannot say how durable it would be under a larger rider, but for me, the frame is perfect, also, mine is built up as a Single Speed, so I can't say how it works with gears. The only issue that may bug some people is that there is not a lot of clearance for big rear tires, but I didn't notice til I got into some sticky mud that rubbed the frame a bit. Other than that, if you are on a tight budget and still want something light and fast, the Razzo is the way to go.

  17. #117
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    Action shot

    In action at Prairie City.
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  18. #118
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    Spoke to some guys from Sette this past weekend at Sea Otter and I asked about the Razzo. They said the Razzo is the number 1 selling Sette frame. The sales have been so good they're designing a 26" Razzo. I suggested a carbon version... they said it's in the works but a couple of years out. Just thought I'd pass the info along.

  19. #119
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeryang
    Spoke to some guys from Sette this past weekend at Sea Otter and I asked about the Razzo. They said the Razzo is the number 1 selling Sette frame. The sales have been so good they're designing a 26" Razzo. I suggested a carbon version... they said it's in the works but a couple of years out. Just thought I'd pass the info along.
    Thanks for the info. I'm temted to buy one, if I can get enough positive comments from some folks on how durable it will be for a 300 pound Clydesdale.(...maybe down to 260 with some hard work...) I might be temted to ride it at 300 though. That's like asking an elephant to dance in a pair of ballet shoes. ...But maybe it's that strong...
    roccowt.
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  20. #120
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    I just bought a Razzo frame about a week ago and started to build up yesterday. So far, I have the bottom bracket and cranks put on, I have the rear juicy 7 ready to go. I will be picking up my Croxxmax wheelset tomorrow, the Reba fork on Wednesday, and my x-9 rear der. and shifter on Friday. I should be ready to go by middle of next week. I really enjoy the polished look of the Razzo and can't wait to ride it!

    p.s. How you pronounce Sette? Is it "set-tay" or is it "set"?

  21. #121
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    i prob pronounce it wrong but i say "set" like setting the table...
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  22. #122
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    what's the maximum tire clearance on the frame?

  23. #123
    The White Jeff W
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    I read it as set-tee
    No moss...

  24. #124
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    I used the Microsoft speech app and it pronounces it as "Set".

  25. #125
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    Quote Originally Posted by bgraves28
    p.s. How you pronounce Sette? Is it "set-tay" or is it "set"?

    From some on-line Italian pronunciation guide:

    "sette is pronounced like set-teh"

  26. #126
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    Sette is an American run company, so I doubt they use Italian pronunciation.

  27. #127
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    Sette Seven

    Sette is the Italian word for the number seven. Since the Sette company logo includes a number seven, I'm inclined to believe the company name pronunced in the Italian manner.

    There is a .wmv file at the following website that provides the correct pronunciation of the Italian word sette'.
    http://italian.about.com/library/chi...blnumber07.htm
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  28. #128
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    also if you look after the 2nd t is an apostrophe... so i'd suspect it is the italian enunciation...
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  29. #129
    asa
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lambda_drive
    what's the maximum tire clearance on the frame?
    I am running a Schwalbe 2.25 Racing Ralph, which as I mentioned before, gets tight when the mud gets thick, so I would not run anything larger. In dry conditions, it fits fine.

  30. #130
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    The guys at the booth pronounce it the Italian way.

    I have a Rampage up front and by the looks of it, I believe it can clear one in the rear, but it'd be tight.

  31. #131
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    I just got an email from pricepoint. The Razzo uses the same derailleur hanger as the Relic/Riddik, just in case any body wanted to know.

    http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/167...eur-Hanger.htm

  32. #132
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    Razzo podiums at Sea Otter....CAT 1. Time to go ride now....

  33. #133
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    I am thinking of building this up as an inexpensive/beater bike. Any ideas on what a suitable yet inexpensive fork (edit; not frame, doh) for this would be? Ideally, I'd like something with 80-100mm of travel.

    Thanks,
    Vandit
    Last edited by vkalia; 04-22-2009 at 04:29 AM.

  34. #134
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    Quote Originally Posted by vkalia
    I am thinking of building this up as an inexpensive/beater bike. Any ideas on what a suitable yet inexpensive frame for this would be? Ideally, I'd like something with 80-100mm of travel.

    Thanks,
    Vandit
    Do you mean a fork? Probably an 08 Rock Shox Tora if you can find one. I've been looking around for one myself.
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  35. #135
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    Sorry, I meant "fork" not "frame" - doh.

    I am trying to keep the build at under $1k, as I am doing this more for the experience and fun of DIY than anything else. As of now, I am already at around $850 using mostly X7... anything think a sub-$1k build is doable? Maybe I should start hunting on Ebay for X5.

    Vandit

  36. #136
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    Quote Originally Posted by vkalia
    Sorry, I meant "fork" not "frame" - doh.

    I am trying to keep the build at under $1k, as I am doing this more for the experience and fun of DIY than anything else. As of now, I am already at around $850 using mostly X7... anything think a sub-$1k build is doable? Maybe I should start hunting on Ebay for X5.

    Vandit
    I been checking. Cheap 29er suspension forks are slim pikkins right now it appears. Toras and Rebas pop up at auction on ebay still though. I haven't got into Craigslist yet so I dunno. Haven't got into Sram drivetrain stuff either. Someone once told me X7 is better than X5 (all I know)
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  37. #137
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    for inexpensive forks a tora is about your only option it seems ... but it'll def be on the heavy side...

    on a side note... was the geo spec's they give based on an 80mm fork?...
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  38. #138
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    Manitou Drake is also similar in price, but I haven't heard much about it yet

  39. #139
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    Quote Originally Posted by vkalia
    I am thinking of building this up as an inexpensive/beater bike. Any ideas on what a suitable yet inexpensive fork (edit; not frame, doh) for this would be? Ideally, I'd like something with 80-100mm of travel.

    Thanks,
    Vandit
    Icyclesusa.com has the 2008 RockShox Tora 318 Solo Air for $200. [EDIT: This is the 26er version, not the 29er. Sorry]

    2008 RockShox Tora 318 Solo Air Suspension Shock Fork
    http://store.icyclesusa.com/shared/S...unt2=553657174
    Last edited by dog.gone; 04-22-2009 at 10:03 AM.

  40. #140
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    Quote Originally Posted by dog.gone
    Icyclesusa.com has the 2008 RockShox Tora 318 Solo Air for $200.

    2008 RockShox Tora 318 Solo Air Suspension Shock Fork
    http://store.icyclesusa.com/shared/S...unt2=553657174
    That is not the 29er version unfortunately.

  41. #141
    asa
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    Why not go rigid, save up a bit and get a worthy fork?

  42. #142
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    Quote Originally Posted by boomn
    That is not the 29er version unfortunately.
    Whoops. My bad. I should have paid closer attention.

  43. #143
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    Rear tire clearance

    2.35 Rampage with plenty of room see pic

    Budget build coming in just under $900, had some parts was trying to keep it under $800 but splurged today wanting to get it built up i.e. Thomson stem, X7 front derailleur had a XT that was one size too big and didn't want to wait for a shim. Looking forward to finishing the build and trying it out.
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  44. #144
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    Another Pic

    Another pic partial build
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  45. #145
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gravy
    2.35 Rampage with plenty of room see pic
    Are you sure that's a true 2.35? Some tires run a bit on the small side.

  46. #146
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    Ehhhh.. I just splurged on an EMD9, need to upgrade my road bike and am seriously tempted by the Sultan 29er or the new RIP9.

    This is just an inexpensive bike I am building more for the fun of DIY rather than anything else. If going with a rigid fork, then I'll probably look for a steel bike instead. Maybe try to get a Bandersnatch on clearance or something.

    V.

  47. #147
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    I just noticed something.

    How come the headtube areas are different on these bikes?
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  48. #148
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lambda_drive
    I just noticed something.

    How come the headtube areas are different on these bikes?
    Larger frame size uses a longer headtube so the down tube and top tube don't have to overlap

  49. #149
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lambda_drive
    Are you sure that's a true 2.35? Some tires run a bit on the small side.
    Nope, Rampage's are big. Shiggy measured tread width at 2.36" in this thread.

  50. #150
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    Anyone ever build one of these up as a 69er? Any thoughts on how this would work out?

  51. #151
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    would drop the BB... and you'd still have a fairly long wheelbase (compared to a "conventional" 69er... granted you COULD do it... but i doubt it'd be great... you'd be dropping the rear of it... which would rake out the front end unless you tossed on a shorter fork... and then you'd loose a lot of that BB height... i want one...
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  52. #152
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    I'm going to get one. I'm 5'7 and have a 30 inch inseam. Will I be okay with a small?

  53. #153
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    Tire Clearance part duex

    Ran the Rampages with an X7 duel pull FD ran into some rubbing issues so had to switch it out to a XT FD.

  54. #154
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ronnie
    Why should I or anyone else take advice from someone who believes it is adequate to use just a back brake. When you apply a brake, front or rear about 75% of your weight transfers onto the front wheel. All you are going to do is skid your back wheel and rip up the trail, not to mention the lack of control using just a rear brake.

    It is obvious that you know very little about biking.

    Ronnie.
    Don't really want to derail this thread, but braking is much more dynamic than that.
    I beleive he means primarily rear brake.
    I have seen allot of people who are extremely agile that use the back brake quite allot but never skid. It is a constant changing dynamics of your balance and postion on the bike and between the front and rear brake. Over many years I have seen over compensated front braking start many a crash as the front wheel is "usually.....75% of the time" first to go. Sometimes the front brake can be applied much more than the back but the modulation between both brakes as your balance changes is the most important thing to work on.
    No need to insult your fellow posters to make your point. It pretty much nullifies any validation you have.


    Now.......back to the frame.
    I plan on ordering a 16" or 18" (honestly the numbers for both sizes look very similar) at 5'9". This will give me a little quicker handling 29er than I am currently on. (both actual tt lengths are about the same 57/58 cm but sette wtih a lil shorter wheelbase, lil tighter ha ...than my r/x....and 3lbs lighter.)
    Should make for a good riding bike at my size and for my needs......oh yea, and the price and wght makes it a fun experiment.
    Anyone know if the actual toptube measurements are accurate 57cm for small, 59cm for larger etc. Thanks.
    Also, could someone please measure center to top for me and see if the sizing is accurate for any given frame. I have seen numbers at 16 or 16.5 and 18 or 18.5 etc.
    Last edited by ghawk; 04-28-2009 at 07:19 AM.

  55. #155
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    Quote Originally Posted by D1PHAM
    Anyone ever build one of these up as a 69er? Any thoughts on how this would work out?
    If you want a 69er you should start with a frame designed for a 26" rear wheel

  56. #156
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    I almost went with that old Supergo Access frame. Performance satisfaction warranty is beyond reproach. I could not find geometry info for starters and there were just too many good things about the new Sette Razzo.
    Sette Razzo 29er 7k series alum frame (~3.5 lbs) should be here today for 200 bucks. The thinner walled series tubing should give me a pretty lively feel (what most of the heavier hardtales frames lack. (while in theory the 7000 series might be stiffer than lower end alum and steel, once you compensate for strength by making it lighter with the thinner walls, you many times get a nice lively riding lil frame.....and for the price ?)

  57. #157
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    Here is a couple of pics of my friends Sette. He's got a G2 offset RP24 fork on his, it is set to 100mm. Seems pretty happy with the bike. He did mention the stingy tire clearance. He is running a Panaracer Fire XC on the rear.






    The Truth is out there. Here it isThe TRUTH

  58. #158
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    Enoch
    Here is a couple of pics of my friends Sette.
    Enoch, tell your bud he doesn't have to tiewrap all the way around the toptube for the hydro line. (Just around the hydro line and the next door cable housing.)

    Thanks for great pics ! Professionally packaged it took awhile to unpack. (Packed better than my R/X 29er which was much more deniro.) Very nice and 1447grams 3.19lbs (digi alpine scale) with seat collar in a medium. I'd post pics if I can get my usb port driver to work. Nicest 200 bucks on bike stuff I have spent in awhile. Previous post thanks for advice I went ahead and snagged spare hanger. The sizing numbers are pretty much right on amazingly enough, at least for the medium. Good clearance for 2.1 Maxxis Ardents. Would probably not go with anything much larger.
    Edit: okay medium chain stay clearance at maximum point is 63.45 mm (measured with digi calipers) at the max chainstay point width for the ardent 2.15" width tire in it and at that width point so a 2.2 will probably fit but it will be tight.
    Oh yes, as previousl posted. Thread aren't ready and need to be chased/tapped, barely any there don't know about ht.
    Last edited by ghawk; 05-11-2009 at 02:56 PM.

  59. #159
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    Enoch... any pics of the tire clearance and what tires is he using?...
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  60. #160
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    Quote Originally Posted by donalson
    Enoch... any pics of the tire clearance and what tires is he using?...
    It's a Fire XC on the rear, it clears, but there is not alot of room for error. I didn't get a chance to steal but a few photos, sorry no tire pics. Most 2.1 will do fine on this frame
    The Truth is out there. Here it isThe TRUTH

  61. #161
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    how bout a 2.3 exiwolf?
    - Surly Disc trucker
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  62. #162
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    Thank you

    Quote Originally Posted by dog.gone
    Sette is the Italian word for the number seven. Since the Sette company logo includes a number seven, I'm inclined to believe the company name pronunced in the Italian manner.

    There is a .wmv file at the following website that provides the correct pronunciation of the Italian word sette'.
    http://italian.about.com/library/chi...blnumber07.htm
    For all the "no espeecko italian" crowd, seriously, the sticker even has a freaking 7 in it.
    Sit and spin my ass...

  63. #163
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    Quote Originally Posted by Enoch
    It's a Fire XC on the rear, it clears, but there is not alot of room for error. I didn't get a chance to steal but a few photos, sorry no tire pics. Most 2.1 will do fine on this frame
    FireXC? That's not too bad then. I remember BruceBrown posting measurements on those tires and he claims they are actually a true 2.2" in terms of tread.

  64. #164
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    2.3 exiwolf will work... I'm running them up front and in the back with my set up....

  65. #165
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    After tapping the threads the left bb shell still was tricky to line up right. So, don't force it.
    No headset or bb facing needed.
    Other than that, build has so far gone really well been awhile since I built a hardtale vs rear suspension. 26.8 pounds non weight weenie build 9 speed build 09 rock shox reba thru axle u-turn 100-120 at 4 lbs. XTR, Spinergy wheels ghetto ..(i give up a couple of pound cause I use ergonomic bar ends and othodic grips.)
    Btw, XTR m970 bottom bracket, I did 1 - 2.5 & 1 - ~2.3 spacers drive side and a 3 mm non drive. Hopefully that won't bugger the bearings or start creaking.
    With standard 2- 2.5 and 1 - 2.5, drive side non drive for 68mm bb, the driveline was way out to the right (it looked like my right drive arm pedal was about 1.7mm farther out than the left) so I had to get creative. If you don't know what I'm talking about then just do standard and it will be fine.
    Bike scratches very easily, but really looks like allot of bike for the money. If you are picky about that sort of stuff, you might want to clear coat it before you build it. Fun cheap project that is building up 3 lbs lighter than my R/X which as I said at my weight and height was a b*()t on the uphill. The valid compairson for this bike seems to be the niner emd 7k series alum at 3.5 lbs and 500.00 bucks or so. Air 9 Scan might be even better and you would drop about .2 pounds at ~700 ?
    Edit: Oh yea, the other change I did to get a better change line was add a spacer of about 2mm inside the back cassette. Combined with the spacer changes to the xtr bb, my chainline on the medium razzo is much improved. (If you don't do that, you may want to just add a couple of chain lengths to keep it from being a bit tight on your cross-over gearing.)
    The bike is really quite a climbing monster. My R/X was good on most flat stuff but the weight for a small size bike kept it from climbing really well compared to this bike. The Razzo out climbs anything on hilly rolly terrain. Super technical is of course another story because it is a hardtail. But the larger wheels make any up to moderately technical courses a dream. For extremely rocky technical courses of course it can't compete with my 650b 5" travel Mojo SL. But anything that has a fair section of fire roads with long non-technical climbs this bike rides away from anything I have ridden.
    Another Edit: Oh yea, the 27.2 seattube. Should have been a 30.9 but if it keeps the weight lower I am happy iow, fine for us smaller guys.
    I am running 250mm of a carbon post at 170 lbs and it flexes approx 4 mm or even more. (not a bad deal on a hardtail as long as it does not break.)
    You big guys, please run an aluminum seatpost for your own safety if you are running more than 200mm seatpost.
    Last edited by ghawk; 05-15-2009 at 03:45 PM.

  66. #166
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    great race bike

    Quote Originally Posted by Lambda_drive
    So does anybody else have a ride report on the frame?

    I'm really considering buying this frame, but I just can't find many reviews online, and a lot of people that I've talked say to go with a more well known brand.
    I built up one as my race bike after finding my Asylum too slow an heavy. Mine built up just under 25 lbs, 3x9, big tires, biggish fork. It's basically full XT with a F29 RP24 100mm.

    I raced it at the Lemurian, NVDC, and the Pine Nut Cracker and it was great... I didn't really miss the suspension at the rear with the big wheel and big tire (a 2.3 Exiwolf). It climbed great, descended well, and I beat the crap out of it and I weigh about 200. I'd recommend it for sure... although I have no idea if it would work for someone 100lbs heavier than me!

    Well worth the 200 bones! I'm pretty surprised how shaped the tubing is actually...

  67. #167
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    My Razzo

    I built one up earlier this year with the 29er build kit and a Rock Shox Reba SL (fork totally sucks) but bike rides great. I'm 6'1" 200lbs and ride the 18" frame.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  68. #168
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    Has anyone tried to take the stickers off the frame?

  69. #169
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    Quote Originally Posted by Randot
    I built one up earlier this year with the 29er build kit and a Rock Shox Reba SL (fork totally sucks) but bike rides great. I'm 6'1" 200lbs and ride the 18" frame.
    Just curious why you don't like the fork

  70. #170
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    The stickers are under the clear coat. Very thin clear coat that it is. I've considered stripping it and repainting like I have to other frames.

  71. #171
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    Quote Originally Posted by boomn
    Just curious why you don't like the fork
    Well, it's difficult for me to get proper air pressure in it. Also, when in lockout there is still a good amount of sag and it makes a creaking noise when sagging. It needs more travel, probably only getting an inch of travel. I need to pull the legs off and take the spacer off, hopefully, I'll get another inch of travel. I just wish there was a Bomber for a 29er.

  72. #172
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    Quote Originally Posted by Randot
    Well, it's difficult for me to get proper air pressure in it. Also, when in lockout there is still a good amount of sag and it makes a creaking noise when sagging. It needs more travel, probably only getting an inch of travel. I need to pull the legs off and take the spacer off, hopefully, I'll get another inch of travel. I just wish there was a Bomber for a 29er.
    Do you have a proper shock pump, something for high pressure and that doesn't bleed when removed?

    The lockout is designed to still have a small amount of travel. You can adjust how much force it takes to active that extra travel with the Floodgate valve. Its a small hex end under that gold cap on top of he compression knob. Turn it max to the right and you will probably find what you are looking for.

    It definitely shouldn't be creaking. Is it really like a squeaky mattress creaking?

    Do you have matching air pressure in both chambers? Too much positive can prevent the fork from extending all the way. Also, since air is progressive, it will always take much more force to use up that last 1" of travel than the first 2"

    I asked because the Reba is widely considered a really good and reliable fork, and very simple to service. If you are having problems, chances are the collective experience of this forum can help you get it dialed

  73. #173
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    >>Just curious why you don't like the fork
    I'm running the 90-120mm version of the fork (maxle thru axle) as opposed to 80mm fixed qr. It really helps with a hardtale to have a travel adjust fork, and with a 29er the ta. You can ride the bike as meant to be ridden on the climbs at short travel, etc but to give yourself a break from the pounding on the LONG downhills just dial up to 120mm and the thru ax helps handles the 29er wheels extra momentum better that qr version.

    The fork has really been right on with this frame for me.
    I could do with a better travel adjust system than u-turn, but there is no other 29er fork out there>> that I know of << that has as many options for you as does the 09 Reba.
    & I use them all.....
    Nther edit: Well finally got a http://velo-orange.com/ 17 degree drop stem to get me low enough. That really is a problem for smaller riders that like an agressive lower stem setup with these 29ers. Note the Razzo is probably one of the best head tube lengths of the bunch also.
    The ride is so very well on the razzo it is the best climbing bike in my stable.
    Last edited by ghawk; 06-21-2009 at 06:53 PM.

  74. #174
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    Quote Originally Posted by ghawk
    >>Just curious why you don't like the fork
    I'm running the 90-120mm version of the fork (maxle thru axle) as opposed to 80mm fixed qr. It really helps with a hardtale to have a travel adjust fork, and with a 29er the ta. You can ride the bike as meant to be ridden on the climbs at short travel, etc but to give yourself a break from the pounding on the LONG downhills just dial up to 120mm and the thru ax helps handles the 29er wheels extra momentum better that qr version.

    The fork has really been right on with this frame for me.
    I could do with a better travel adjust system than u-turn, but there is no other 29er fork out there>> that I know of << that has as many options for you as does the 09 Reba.
    & I use them all.....
    The Reba does NOT have on the fly adjustable travel. Please explain how yours does?

  75. #175
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    Quote Originally Posted by boomn
    Do you have a proper shock pump, something for high pressure and that doesn't bleed when removed?

    The lockout is designed to still have a small amount of travel. You can adjust how much force it takes to active that extra travel with the Floodgate valve. Its a small hex end under that gold cap on top of he compression knob. Turn it max to the right and you will probably find what you are looking for.

    It definitely shouldn't be creaking. Is it really like a squeaky mattress creaking?

    Do you have matching air pressure in both chambers? Too much positive can prevent the fork from extending all the way. Also, since air is progressive, it will always take much more force to use up that last 1" of travel than the first 2"

    I asked because the Reba is widely considered a really good and reliable fork, and very simple to service. If you are having problems, chances are the collective experience of this forum can help you get it dialed
    I have an older shock pump works (white industries) but definately bleeds when releasing since it screws on. Can you recommend one?

    The floodgate was all the way to the right.

    I put the same amount of air, by the gauge, in both chambers.

    It appears that the creaking sound happens when it is locked out and the sound is coming from friction from the uppers rubbing on the lowers.

    I wish I didn't have to disassemble the fork to adjust the travel.

    Thanks very much for the help. This is my first new mt. bike in 12 years so I need all the help I can get.

  76. #176
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    I heard the Sette shock pump from pricepoint.com is good, according to Mountain Bike Action Magazine. It has a mesh hose, I think, for whatever that's worth. They also said the Rock Shox Boxxer pump can be used on tires as well as shocks. I don't have an air shock yet so I can only tell you what I read.
    roccowt.
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  77. #177
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    Quote Originally Posted by Randot
    The Reba does NOT have on the fly adjustable travel. Please explain how yours does?
    There is a >$800 version that does have "U-Turn" adjustable travel

  78. #178
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    Quote Originally Posted by Randot
    I have an older shock pump works (white industries) but definately bleeds when releasing since it screws on. Can you recommend one?

    The floodgate was all the way to the right.

    I put the same amount of air, by the gauge, in both chambers.

    It appears that the creaking sound happens when it is locked out and the sound is coming from friction from the uppers rubbing on the lowers.

    I wish I didn't have to disassemble the fork to adjust the travel.

    Thanks very much for the help. This is my first new mt. bike in 12 years so I need all the help I can get.
    Happy to provide what help I can.

    Is your Reba currently set up for 20% sag?

  79. #179
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    Quote Originally Posted by boomn
    There is a >$800 version that does have "U-Turn" adjustable travel
    sweetness, obviously didn't know that. I apologize for my ignorance.

  80. #180
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    Quote Originally Posted by boomn
    Happy to provide what help I can.

    Is your Reba currently set up for 20% sag?
    That I do not know. I didn't have an extra hand when I built it up and have totally overlooked that since it's been built. I will get on it. Thanks.

  81. #181
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    Hello everyone, I've just ordered myself a Sette Razzo frame, and I am curious what type of headset fits there?

  82. #182
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    I put a Crank Brother Cobalt in mine
    Greg

  83. #183
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    1-1/8"

  84. #184
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    I am interested in its type specificly, i.e.integrated, internal, semi-integrated *etc?

  85. #185
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    did you not look atthepictures?

  86. #186
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  87. #187
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    kewl lookin pic man
    - Surly Disc trucker
    - '82 trek 560 roadie

  88. #188
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    Quote Originally Posted by nnnn
    You must live in the Northeast.

    Rain rain rain and more rain here!

  89. #189
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    better photo of my razzo


    with new handmade ukrainian cf seatpost =)

  90. #190
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    ^very nice

  91. #191
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    Quote Originally Posted by nnnn
    better photo of my razzo


    with new handmade ukrainian cf seatpost =)
    Nice one! If you don't mind. How tall are you and what size is that frame? Is it a 20"? I'm 6'1" and got an 18" but now I'm afraid it is too small for me. The stand over height is what I was concerned about with the 20". Let me know what you think. Thanks!

  92. #192
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    Hi, I am 190 cm (I guess it will be 6'2") tall and got 20" frame. Feels right to me, I am even concidering buying a longer stem. If you have long feet and 18" seems too small, you can exchange it.

  93. #193
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    Quote Originally Posted by nnnn
    Hi, I am 190 cm (I guess it will be 6'2") tall and got 20" frame. Feels right to me, I am even concidering buying a longer stem. If you have long feet and 18" seems too small, you can exchange it.
    Would you mind posting your build components? Is that an '08 reba on there too? How do you like the handling with that fork

  94. #194
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    new build

    22" Sette Razzo 29er frame
    Reba SL '08
    Maddux T2 Explorer wheels
    Kenda Small Block 8's
    Avid Juicy 5's
    X9 drivetrain build kit
    Truvativ Stylo cranks (in drivetrain build kit)
    Gigatube BB (in drivetrain build kit)
    cheapest Eggbeaters
    WTB Rocket V saddle
    Easton Monkeylite SL CNT riser bar
    Race Face Deus stem 130mm
    Sette carbon seatpost
    Sette red lockon grips

    I got everything from pricepoint and built it up last night.

    Haven't weighed it yet, spent too much time riding today I'm guessing somewhere in the 24 lb range. Very fun bike here on the local hilly trails. I got over some trail obstacles much more easily than with my 26", and I noticed its a lot lighter than my redline monocog
    Attached Images Attached Images

  95. #195
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    another pic of my razzo


  96. #196
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    My derailleur hanger broke. Anybody else have this problem?

  97. #197
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    Quote Originally Posted by Randot
    My derailleur hanger broke. Anybody else have this problem?
    Just doing it's job

    "Derailleur hangers were developed to yield in a crash before your frame does.
    It is much easier to replace a hanger than repair or replace the frame"


  98. #198
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    Does the complete bike from pricepoint have 80 or 100 mm of travel?

  99. #199
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    I've been riding mountain bikes since 1990 and I've never broken one before. I have fatigued aluminum frames so badly they are covered in stress fractures and are unsafe to ride. Steel bikes do not have this problem. The derailleur hanger can simply be bent back in to place if this ever happens. I've had 3 Cannondales, because the first two frames broke, 2 Treks (because the first frame broke), 1 Barracuda Easton Varilite tubing with incorporated hanger. Great frame but too fatigued to ride anymore, that's just what aluminum does. 2 Steel Breezer Lightening frames, never looked back, best thing I ever did. Oh yeah, I once had a steel stumpjumper but sold it because I thought aluminum was the way to go. I built up the Sette Razzo to try a go at the 29ers and am now experiencing the same thing with aluminum. It breaks. Frame will be up on ebay shortly for cheap, going to build up a steel 29er. Life is too short to ride aluminum. My 29er is out of commission until Pricepoint can get a hanger and that will be at least another week.


    Quote Originally Posted by Jake Pay
    Just doing it's job

    "Derailleur hangers were developed to yield in a crash before your frame does.
    It is much easier to replace a hanger than repair or replace the frame"


  100. #200

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