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Thread: Rotwild R.C1

  1. #1
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    Rotwild R.C1

    I was looking around for a new endurance/adventure racing frame. I have previously test rode and shopped for a 29r - for almost a year - and concluded that I do not care.

    Sensible thing would be to get a complete from one of the bigger firms, but I am not a big fan of buying factory builds. Even as they are usually a good deal and perfectly functional - I am never able to restrain myself from "upgrading", so I end up paying twice for many parts - and I already have enough bits for a very decent build. I was not keen on paying full retail for the newest thing, and do not really need the latest features, like tapered headtube and press-fit BB either.

    Noticed an odd frame on Ebay - 2009' Rotwild R.C1. Google translate and German discussion boards did not raise any obvious red flags. Newer versions of this model seemed to get a shorter stroke shock - which probably reduced bob, but for a person on the fatter side of things is a bit harder to tune. I assume they are Taiwan made, which is completely fine with me. Will probably pair it up with Magura Durin 120mm.

    Anybody knows something about 2009 R.C1 that I do not?

    I did write to "us @rotwild.de" and hooked up with Klaus, who is apparently a U.S. distributor. He was appropriately effusive in his praise for the item; would have been odd if he was not. Ordered, sight unseen.

    So I think in the worst case scenario (frame not arriving or breaking on the first ride) I will be out of some moneys - would not the worst mistake I have done with MTB purchases. In the best case I will have a good bike for a few years.

    Will post my build here as/if it happens.

  2. #2
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    Santa dropped off a box that says to contain a "German Cycling Device".



    Did not yet look what is inside. I have a bigger problem. Can not decide on what fork to use.

    F120 RLC, SID 120 15QR, Reba...

  3. #3
    local trails rider
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    I've understood that Rotwild is a respected brand, so the frame should be OK for its intended use.

    German brands often seem to put pretty tall seat tubes on their frames, which is not really ideal for my dimensions.

    "it IS possible that you are faster or slower than anybody else who is having at least as much if not more or less fun"

  4. #4
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    Yep, seat tube is relatively tall. Not sure it will work with an adjustable post for me, if I decide to put one on.

    Medium frame with Fox RP23 came with a nice Acros headset already installed and weighted 3.22kg with it, without 42g seat collar (Rotwild branded, very nice looking). Clearly on the heavy side for its travel, but weight seems to be put to a good use in the rear triangle. Stout looking pivots and hardware. Very trick machined BB shell, internally and externally butted tubes. Does not look like they exaggerated stretching the intended use graph all the way to All Mountain. Probably as stout as most good 140mm frames.

    I guess I could have saved a pound or even two with all the recent carbon trickery, but probably I would go there in another five years or so.

    Overall, an apparently well made and good looking frame. Not the very best welding I have seen, but nothing to complain about, and they have clearly thought about various details.

    All cable routing is on down tube with bolt-on full housing guides. I like it.

    I want to put needle bearing kit from Enduro in the upper shock eye. It seems to rotate a lot. I wonder if it could accommodate 2.25" stroke (stock is 2.0 - they went to 1.75 in '10 version of the frame). IIRC, Float can be internally convertible.

  5. #5
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    Installed RWC's (Enduro) needle bearing kit into the upper shock eye - where there is a lot of rotation against the link. 2185R fits just right it seems - and drag and stiction reduction is noticeable. Not sure how it will affect actual riding, but this seems to be the proper way to mount shock.

    Finally decided on a 120mm fixed travel Durin Marathon - got it with a 9mm Hadley through axle and 9mm TA adapters for Hope hubs..

    2.25" stroke shock may fit, but that is close, I have measured eye to eye distance when link hit the seattube at 5.5", and 7.875 - 2.25 = 5.625 for ~3mm at shock. With this link that is about 5mm to spare. With bottom out bumper added that may be a sufficient margin. Will think again couple year from now when sending shock to a major service and upgrade.

    Somehow misplaced upper cover from the installed headset (44mm zero stack Acros Ai-03). Argh. That may be $60 for a new one, or just upper part from another.

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