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  1. #1
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    Post your Maverick!!

    Well..........someones gotta kick it off so it may as well be me

    I present my ML7 size small (Called Jibe) with the later air shock upgrade that works so much better, its got a 100mm Fox Float up front.......so far
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  2. #2
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    Here are Peabody and Lantana!
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    RIDE MF RIDE,
    Scotto

  3. #3
    JWB
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    Beckham @ just over 26lbs:



    John

    PS The seat post works very well for me.
    Last edited by JWB; 04-13-2007 at 10:37 PM.

  4. #4
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    Two DUC 32's

    Here is a photo of the DUC's I am currently bashing around on
    While not Maverick Frames I thought this might be OK for this thread
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  5. #5
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    My girls ml7

    build this up for my girlfriend.
    she loves it.
    still have not weighed it.
    the cranks are italian extralight 172.5's
    king hubs, triple ti eggbeaters with short spindles.
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    I was fast once, but then what fast was changed...

  6. #6
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    Question for Crankarm

    Here is a photo of the DUC's I am currently bashing around on
    While not Maverick Frames I thought this might be OK for this thread


    Just wondered how you find the Intense compared with the RIP? I have had a 5.5 set up with DUC's and was thinking about the RIP so all comments will be of great interest!

  7. #7
    1FG
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    Here is Bashful...

    Just got it two days ago, a demo bike from... haven't had time to ride it yet!

    Cheers,

    DC
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  8. #8
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  9. #9
    Hoops - Big and Small
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    Axolotl

    Got a pic of the latest version of my ML7, as you can see from my saddle I've got the new monolink/shock. Kind of miss my old set-up (extra heavy spring w/air assist) running 15-20 psi.
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  10. #10
    Whatever
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    Donkey - ML7/5 from May '06

    Photos are from Porcupine Rim in Moab, 3 weeks ago. Setup for that type of ride...big tires, Mallet pedals. Otherwise I run Candy's and 2.1 Specialized tires and it is a couple pounds lighter...just over 25#s.

    just ride

  11. #11
    Whatever
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1FG
    Just got it two days ago, a demo bike from... haven't had time to ride it yet!

    Cheers,

    DC
    Interesting setup for your Polar sensor. Is that mounted on the bash guard? I have mine mounted on the lower part of the right leg, under the bash guard. I mounted it with zip ties like normal, then screwed the bash guard screws over it and it works just fine. However the big issues is the wireless is not strong enough for the watch to read from the bars... so I have it mounted on the lower fork crown. It seemed wierd at first, but it is nice since I don't always look at it (in the shape I'm in, I don't always want to see my HR!)
    just ride

  12. #12
    1FG
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    Quote Originally Posted by MINImtnbiker
    Interesting setup for your Polar sensor. Is that mounted on the bash guard? I have mine mounted on the lower part of the right leg, under the bash guard. I mounted it with zip ties like normal, then screwed the bash guard screws over it and it works just fine. However the big issues is the wireless is not strong enough for the watch to read from the bars... so I have it mounted on the lower fork crown. It seemed wierd at first, but it is nice since I don't always look at it (in the shape I'm in, I don't always want to see my HR!)
    I had the same problem on my Cannondale with the lefty fork. If mounted all the way at the bottom of the fork the signal isn't strong enough to reach the watch mounted on the bar. On the Lefty I had to make a special mount (see http://home.comcast.net/~ledrocnoc/M...4Jekyll_05.jpg - here for the bike http://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/bik/242752061.html)

    When I looked at the DUC32 fork, I assumed I was going to have the same problem, so I just hanged the sensor on the fork guard. I used a hot wire to poke hole through the plastic, used industrial double sided tape and stainless wire to hold the sensor. I recessed the wire inside the guard so that it would not rub against the fork seal. Worked for the 2 rides I did so far.

    DC

  13. #13
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    Hey thats some great action shots........

  14. #14
    Whatever
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    Polar fork mount "switch"

    Quote Originally Posted by 1FG
    I had the same problem on my Cannondale with the lefty fork. If mounted all the way at the bottom of the fork the signal isn't strong enough to reach the watch mounted on the bar.
    DC
    Someone told me that the fork mount piece has a "switch" inside it which can be set for a stronger signal. I'm bleeding my disc brakes today, so while I have the bike on the stand I'll take a look and report back.
    just ride

  15. #15
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    Fushia

    Sigh...
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  16. #16
    Unit 91
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    I love seeing all these Mavericks! They are truely one of a kind. My LBS is the only shop in Maryland to carry them and they look great. Looking forward to seeing the new models.
    Bikes

  17. #17
    Bike Vigilante
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    Pepe at Mt St Helens

    04 ML7 with an 06 DUC32 on Mt St Helens last summer.
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  18. #18
    Whatever
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    Polar sensor range adjustment

    This is off topic for this thread, but I had mentioned above that I'd reply back...I just heard back from Polar about the speed sensor range adjustment. They sent a document back that says there are 3 settings...however adjusting to the longer ranges could cause interference when riding close to others. Just email their customer service for it... or PM me. My issue is that the signal did not reach the watch unit on the my handlebar with the DUC32 fork....so I have to put the watch on the lower fork crown.
    just ride

  19. #19
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    please send me the infos about the different settings because I have the same problem.
    On my ML8 I use a special sensor holder from cannondale for the lefty. It works fine, but is very complicate to install because there is not much space at the DUC to fix it.. I try to give a photo from this solution.

  20. #20
    mtbr member
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    Massif des Cerces, France, Summer 2006

  21. #21
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    My 7.5

    In size small called 'Snapper' Unusual colour

    Pic Taken after shredding 'sidewinder' at Afan - Wales(UK). At this place the performance of the bike was simply awesome!!
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  22. #22
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    Here's my current ML-7.3 (Zola) - preceded by



    ML-7.2 (Goblin)

    Both from ourTop UK Maverick man - Tim Johnson of SidewaysCycles

  23. #23
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    My ML7

    Added a little NR mount so it looks like my motorcycle =)

    *edit, noticed that it was a pain to tighten the goose neck bolts and the whole thing was flexing so I made new 2 piece bracket, hardly any flex and easy to service*
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  24. #24
    Insanity later
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    The new XXL Durance.

    The seat angle is 1.5 degrees steeper than my XL 7.5, which is a big improvement while riding, and also looks better. Head tube is also slightly longer, as is the top tube. All in all a way better fit for me.
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  25. #25
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    About XXL size

    Hello
    Are they much bigger than the former 2003 ML7 XL ?
    I'm 6 feet 4inches tall, would you recomend an XXL?
    Thanks

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  26. #26
    Insanity later
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    I don't know exactly how the XXL Durance compares to the XL ML7. I suspect a little larger. It's definitely bigger all around than the XL ML7.5, but that bike was smaller than my ML7.

    For your size I'd probably go with the XXL Durance. It's got a looong top tube, but then again I am really long legged (98cm inseam), so it may feel fine for you.

    Either way, it's a great bike.

  27. #27
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    Thank you for your advice. It should fit me even if I'm a little short legged (90cm inseam only!)...
    You're wright, ML7 is a great bike ; 4 years of happy rides and still the state of art...

  28. #28
    T.W.O.
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    Incredible climbers

    Here are 2 of my pride and joy, both climb like true champs. Maverick rocks!!
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  29. #29
    Shattering Glass
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    Quote Originally Posted by mimi1885
    Here are 2 of my pride and joy, both climb like true champs. Maverick rocks!!

    And your favorite is?

  30. #30
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    Honestly both. Bikes at this caliber are great period. strong climber, great descender and good all around. maybe the Mojo because 5.5" travel, but if compared with the durance it will be a really tough call.

    The ML7 has been with me for years and Mojo only been 3 weeks, so to state the obvious I'm riding Mojo more now one reason is because it's my new toy. Both bike really rock!! my ML7 without the 647 pedal and the Speedball post weight in at 25.2 and the same set up with the mojo is 26( the new I9 wheelset will drop about 1.5-2lbs) but I like the post it worth the extra half a pound.

    Thanks for asking

  31. #31
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    Hey! someone else also has a 7.5/Durance and a Mojo.[ And I also have a ML7 from a few years ago!] I love both bikes too, but for me they are really different in feel, the Maverick is like a hardtail with a bit more spring and whip out of a corner, the suspension is less plush even with loads of sag and a better climber than the Mojo whereas the Mojo feels more plush and very smooth...definitely a better descender.......I guess thats why I am keeping both bikes...I love the contrast between the 2! I run the Maverick with SC32 and the Mojo with DUC32...found the DUC's on the Maverick slackened the headangle too much.....enjoy!

  32. #32
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    At the risk of hijacking this thread, I'm needing to replace my L ML7/5 with a larger frame and have pretty much narrowed it down to an XL Durance and an XL Mojo. They have very similar geometry (esp, HA, T-T, front center with DUC). I'm maxed out on my L ML7/5 with a Speedball R (ie, setback) and the saddle all of the way back -and it's comfortable for my upper body- but my knees smack the DUC and I can hardly stand and pedal. Real steep climbs (ie, Slickrock) are not doable, even with the travel turned down.

    Problem for me is, in part, they're separated by $400! And, though I'm pretty sure my medium DUC crown will work on either bike, I don't think my 30.9 speedball will work on the Mojo's 31.6 tube. Looked for shims and nobody seems to see the need to go up from 30.9.

    Any advice out there? Thanks.

  33. #33
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    Demo the Mojo and get a 31.6 Speedball outer tube from Maverick...easy to swap over...one 10mm nut....hey presto!

  34. #34
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    Now that's what I'm talkin about! Thanks. I've been emailing Ethan about my dilemma, in part b/c I'm having trouble tracking down 7/5 geometry so that I can compare numbers, and asked about shimming. He said no problem but didn't suggest the outer tube (maybe it's the $s...). As for the geometry, the Matic won't cut it since its geometry is based on the SC.

    Won't be able to demo a Mojo round Austin, but a buddy has a Lg so I'll get on it this weekend.

  35. #35
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    just wrenched my durance together at 4 in the morning

    sram X0, triggers/der.; xtr 175s; avid juicy ultimates 185mm front and rear (organic pads); candy 4Ti pedals; Brooks Swallow Tail Ti saddle, just breaking in.

    Coming from a rigid 26" singlespeed (ok, I put a 2x9 drivetrain and a FoxF80 on it for the mountians), this bicycle feels like cheating. a 20 mile tech/XC ride yesterday felt like 5. My legs we tired but the rest of my body could have gone another 20 miles easy.

    These full suspension bikes *are* like cheating. Only you get to go much faster and ride much farther.

    I'm hooked.

    She's a small with the lightest parts and weighs in around 25.5 lbs. My custom Ti singlespeed (straightgauge litespeed pisga weighs 24 lbs.) Weight is certainly not an issue.

    The only thing I miss is my Chris King rear hub, which wasn't available in time to ship for this weekend. But the fact that it shifts into granny under heavy load without a hitch is so bonus, that again, it feels like cheating.
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  36. #36
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    this is not mine, but it blows anything i've seen so far completely away - this is just such a cush build ...

    ragetty
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  37. #37
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    ... and if we just ...

    A nice one from Spain.
    My new ML8.

    I only could test it 12 kilometers... but I think I'll be very happy with this bike.
    Hope to confirm my first impressions next weekend.

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  38. #38
    Numerous wiring problems.
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    This is Ego, he's a medium ML7, is a naturalised UK citizen and he doesn't look much like that any more, in fact I should take an up to date pic - now has '07 XTR cranks, shifters, mech, Formula B4 SL brakes, Stan's rims etc...

    Had him for about four years now. I reduced the travel on the fork by 15mm which made the whole bike feel much more balanced and together. Was way too chopperish with the original ML7 geometry.

    Lovely, lovely bike, climbs like a mountain goat :-)

  39. #39
    Schipperkes are cool.
    Reputation: banks's Avatar
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    Digger.
    Rips up the singletrack in the high elevation of the Colorado Rocky Mountains.



    Scoty
    Quote Originally Posted by mikesee
    Better suited to non-aggressive 125# gals named Russell.
    I ride so slow, your Garmin will shut off.

  40. #40
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    Almost too purty to ride. Almost...
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  41. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by sjdiesel
    Almost too purty to ride. Almost...
    the seat post, mono 6Ti with rear disk larger than front ??? .... and the color

  42. #42
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    that doesn't work for me either - but then, beauty is in the eye of the beholder.

    actually, the frame colour is ok, but it needs more "complementary" support (as opposed to just everything apple green) from the peripherals.

    @mimi1885:
    any chance of a pic of the ibis from the side?

    ragetty

  43. #43
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    My old 7/2 (2004) silver anodized, destickered and Hard anodized before to be stickered like original.


  44. #44
    recovering roadie
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    [QUOTE=Alpamayo]My old 7/2 (2004) silver anodized, destickered and Hard anodized before to be stickered like original.

    How do you desticker and resticker? I have a 2004 that needs a little TLC and I called Maverick yesterday and they said it wasn't really possible.... ? ?

  45. #45
    mtbr member
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    [QUOTE=dobbs]
    Quote Originally Posted by Alpamayo
    My old 7/2 (2004) silver anodized, destickered and Hard anodized before to be stickered like original.

    How do you desticker and resticker? I have a 2004 that needs a little TLC and I called Maverick yesterday and they said it wasn't really possible.... ? ?
    High pressure hot water or/and with strong adhesiv. You can also use sand treatment like to remove paint, before hard anodizing. The result is the same you can see on hard anodizing frame ML8 or durance ...

  46. #46
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    Meet Mohawk. He is a 2007 Matic with Speedball R. This is only my second true full suspension bike but I must say this is one freaky cool machine... It makes me want to do stuff I have no business doing
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  47. #47
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    ML7/2 2004 after (re) hard anodizing and original stickers




    Now, all the familly in hard anodized version :


  48. #48
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    Just finished building this....





    Not ridden it yet, put my back out so need a few days off the bike.....

  49. #49
    T.W.O.
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    My Mavericks

    Great climber, great descender.

    I love my Mavs
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  50. #50
    trail demon
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    Here is......

    Xenia (top - ML8)

    Azerbaijan (Middle - ML7.5)

    Zarek (Bottom - ML7.3) now has a new owner & used in the mountains of france.
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    Last edited by d4re; 10-07-2007 at 10:33 AM.

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