Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 100 of 137
  1. #1
    ARCHQUEST
    Reputation: fjyang's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    152

    Any Whyte PRST-1, 4 Owners Out there?

    Anybody out there still ride the rare Whyte PRST-1 or the later PRST-4 models? Love the hear from the PRST owners out there about their bike and share feedbacks or modifications they done to this odd duck of a mountain bike design. Own the PRST-1 for couple of years and enjoy it immensely but would love the hear from owners of later PRST-4 with Dual-link (Marin bikes) swingarm out there compared to the single pivot design of the PRST-1.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by fjyang; 09-01-2008 at 03:00 AM.

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation: EGF168's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    3,419
    I’ve still got my dads old Whyte PRST1 XT race bike from 2001. Its had a real thrashing and it’s just the standard V-brake model but everything apart from the gears work fine. As far as the ride goes I think it’s great, it bobs a little more than most modern FS bikes but I see you have A Fox RP23 rear shock so it doesn’t matter much. Somehow it’s still one if the stiffest and fastest bikes I have, the front can feel a little harsh over bumps but I’ve tried others with air shocks and they feel a lot plusher. Have you noticed the very unique sound you get from the frame on this bike? Rather like carbon frames.

    Sorry about the picture quality, I think my camera was having a bad day…



  3. #3
    ARCHQUEST
    Reputation: fjyang's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    152
    I'd agreed its one of the smoothest and solid feeling front and back bike there is. I'd tackle what little bobing there is on the back end with a RP23 platform shock and the stiff front end with a Fox float but with a AVA air canister so the spring rate is more linear with less air. The Fox AVA front shock make the front feel extra plush and it feel like it has more travel then the 4" stock.

    The only front end noise I feel when the fork compress is from the spherical bearing. I have to be carefull not the tighten it too much or too lose to cure the noise. The great thing about linkage forks is that when it compress, it still maintain frame geometry so unlike traditional forks it wont change from 70d headangle to 74d under hard breaking.

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation: superguzz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    61
    Hi, I bought a used Prst-1 frame 6 months ago on ebay.co.uk
    I am buying pieces to complete it but I think I will finish in the next summer....

    I red about Whyte Prst on Mba november 2000 (or 2001?) issue...and I loved it immediately...

    I bought a rear disc brake adaptor in Uk from the distributor; the front adaptor was not more available so I could made one from a pdf file I received from fjyang....a real friend.....thanks!! :-)

    So I will ride it next year and I will post my impressions... :-)

    <table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.it/lh/photo/R96_ZtnGspP3c92xvO8JLg"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/eros.pedron/SMgmNmtie_I/AAAAAAAAAWE/m_jqVIdhTks/s800/whyte_prst1_ero.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">Da <a href="http://picasaweb.google.it/eros.pedron/WhytePRST1">Whyte PRST-1</a></td></tr></table>

    <table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/oGPOr7Yb9p0iUYkOLWAt5w"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/eros.pedron/SMgqhRCPX_I/AAAAAAAAAWM/r8f1fPUnmIc/s800/004.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">Da <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/eros.pedron/WhytePRST1">Whyte PRST-1</a></td></tr></table>

    <table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/c9HjOUfZYMzE1zRQWfpwig"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/eros.pedron/SMgqhf5mGMI/AAAAAAAAAWU/6AzGvUExhX4/s800/002.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">Da <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/eros.pedron/WhytePRST1">Whyte PRST-1</a></td></tr></table>


    PS Hi Frank, how are u? What are u building now? :-)
    Last edited by superguzz; 09-11-2008 at 11:54 AM.

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation: EGF168's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    3,419
    Just a word of warning, we’ve both got the same model that was know to have frame failures, just from looking at the bike I’m sure you can guess where, exactly on the H & Y of Whyte which is not a place you want a bike to break. It’s fortunately a fairly uncommon problem on our early models that was fixed on fjyang’s later model. As you can see the front shock mount is slightly different on all the bikes here, mine is the original the broke many times, yours was the second attempt that had a much lower failure rate and fjyang’s bike is the one they got it right with. I’m just saying this because I know a rider who was injured when it happened, most likely it won’t happen but don’t take too many bigger hits on the front, should be fine on XC and trail riding though.

  6. #6
    ARCHQUEST
    Reputation: fjyang's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    152
    At least now I know there are more then two Whyte PRST-1 owenrs out there ;-) I wonder about the production number of these bikes. The shock mount was an issue from the info I gather but didn't realized there were two design attempts to rectified the issue, maybe you can contact ATB sales in England when and if it fails for a replacement frame. The three different production frames pictured on this thread is what I hope this thread could be.

    The front fork lower shock Fox bushings suppose to wear out pretty fast and Whyte sell a replacement ball bearing bushing kit which is overkill (in a good way) but at least you don't have to worry about that pair of bushings wearing out. I added a small mud flap/fender under the front shock to keep dirt and water away from the shock and I highly recommended. Go ride without a mud fender on a damp day and you'll be suprised how much crap it gathers down there around the front shock.

    Hey Superguzz or as I remember the Italian Architect! ;-) How are you? Hope the disc brake adapter plans work out for you. My bike projects are all over the place but Mrazek FS is my latest creation but at 7 bikes my girl is threaten to leave me so putting on the breaks for now
    Last edited by fjyang; 09-11-2008 at 01:27 AM.

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation: superguzz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    61
    I am thinking about the three different ammo links....it's very interesting argoument...mmmmh
    fjyang's bike has the best link...the V3 frame....mmmh...

    @fjyang: yes...the italian architect!! thanks a lot for adaptor diagram....I made two of 6061 alu....next summer my prst will slow down with a pair of disks.... :-)

    good luck, bye

  8. #8
    mtbr member
    Reputation: leshark's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    16

    Absolutly Addicted

    Yeh, I came across my PRST1 nearly four years ago, I was previously an engineer, and the design will always win over a trad fork, doesn't matter how good a telescopic fork is it doesn't stand a chance, it just goes to show how much looks play a part or this design would have seen off all its competition, thought I would never sell it.... until I was talking to my local Whyte dealer on how the only flaw I saw was that I would regularly jam the chain when selecting the granny ring on steep accents, and he mentioned the PRST4, which had just reached the end of its production life.... but he mentioned that ATB had 4 frames hanging about in their warehouse.... I knew then that one had my name on it!

    New and old!

    Sorry to anyone out there that paid the RRP, I managed to get this brand new babe for a grand with all the warrentees, true it had LX on it (except the 2008 XT brakes) I have since replaced Crank, front and rear mech and changers with 2008 XT, DMR V12 mag peddles and it also came with a rather plush SDG i-beam seat & post, I also swapped my Carbon Easton bars from the PRST1, and on both upgraded both shock bushes to the lifetime ones, and now added a Blackspire bash ring, and tie-wrapped a black mouse mat to protect the rear arm from chain slap

    The only negative I have for this (which is probably the use I make of it) is that I run the sus quite low and that makes the quad like do absolutely nothing, there are only two things I'd like to do to her now, replace the shocks with Fox with remote lockout and upgrade to XTR.... but these are both hyper critical and I am in no rush to do, I have another bike for DH, but to me this bike is the best designed bike ever, no question, I have never had a bad ride on it! ooh the bash ring is due to my sway towards free riding, which this bike also does fantastically (even with only 4" of travel)

    I have stripped both of these bikes several times, so anyone got any questions fire away
    -------------------------
    Whyte PRST 4
    EPX Terrashark
    Specialized Hardrock (Modified)

    -------------------------

  9. #9
    ARCHQUEST
    Reputation: fjyang's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    152
    Hi leshark

    Finally someone out there rides a PRST-4! and you own both PRST-1 & 4 with both bike together in one picture is a rare sight indeed. Does the dual link PRST-4 rear end ride significantely different then the PRST-1 single pivot? Did you buy the bike from ATB directly?

    My PRST-1 rear end bob a bit with the stock Fox float R and a RP23 take care most of issue, supposely with dual link suspensions you don't need a platform shock to control bob. The front end provoke a either love it or hate it reaction but if you're from a engineering or design background, you'll appreciate the design even more. For me its love at first sight with PRST's. The front end track the terrain like no other fork and the feedback just solid and really communicate to the rider what the front end is doing. The latest 32-36mm stanchions forks with 20mm throu axil come close to PRST linkage front rigidity that was design 1999-2000 and I can't imagine what the front end will be like if Whyte have 8 years of developement & refinement to their linkage design?

  10. #10
    mtbr member
    Reputation: superguzz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    61
    hi, i own a PRST-1 but I have to finish to buil it; so I did not ride it but I am asking the same question.....is PRST-4 better than the 1??
    bye

  11. #11
    ARCHQUEST
    Reputation: fjyang's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    152

    Whyte PRST'S Predecessor

    Hi Guys, I think I found the grand daddy of Whyte's PRST design. Its a company call Muddy-Fox, model Interactive Comp also a British company? The front end design is vary similar to PRST's and I got a feeling that John Whyte got a lot of inspiration from that bike. I'd also inlcude a pic of BMW's Televeler front end mountain bike for comparison.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by fjyang; 11-12-2008 at 05:27 AM.

  12. #12
    mtbr member
    Reputation: leshark's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    16
    Quote Originally Posted by fjyang
    Hi leshark

    Finally someone out there rides a PRST-4! and you own both PRST-1 & 4 with both bike together in one picture is a rare sight indeed. Does the dual link PRST-4 rear end ride significantely different then the PRST-1 single pivot? Did you buy the bike from ATB directly?

    My PRST-1 rear end bob a bit with the stock Fox float R and a RP23 take care most of issue, supposely with dual link suspensions you don't need a platform shock to control bob. The front end provoke a either love it or hate it reaction but if you're from a engineering or design background, you'll appreciate the design even more. For me its love at first sight with PRST's. The front end track the terrain like no other fork and the feedback just solid and really communicate to the rider what the front end is doing. The latest 32-36mm stanchions forks with 20mm throu axil come close to PRST linkage front rigidity that was design 1999-2000 and I can't imagine what the front end will be like if Whyte have 8 years of developement & refinement to their linkage design?

    Alas no more, I sold the PRST1 to make way for a DH/Jump bike, the rear end is only different if you set them up properly, which is with a relatively high pressure, as you would for X-country, but I use mine more of an all mountain and epic riding, they both ride extremely light, as if they are about 5 lb lighter, I have ridden both on 6+ hour rides without problem, and I am not among the fittest, however I digress, I run then with about 40% sag, this is below the benefit of Quad link, so I really don't notice any improvement, although I never had a problem with bob on the PRST1, the main reason for the upgrade was the chain slap on the chain stay and just couldn't miss the opportunity, I bought it through Bike in Bristol who are White distributors although it came direct from ATB, but you are unlikely to get one now, I bought her in March, and there were 2 left. I really think White have missed a trick, I ride with guys on supposed all mountain bikes (Specialised and Marin) and on tricky down hill switchbacks, rocks (in fact all surfaces) I leave them standing
    -------------------------
    Whyte PRST 4
    EPX Terrashark
    Specialized Hardrock (Modified)

    -------------------------

  13. #13
    mtbr member
    Reputation: leshark's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    16
    Quote Originally Posted by superguzz
    hi, i own a PRST-1 but I have to finish to buil it; so I did not ride it but I am asking the same question.....is PRST-4 better than the 1??
    bye
    The only difference is the quad link and the rear triangle has no chain stay, although if you can live without the big gripper quick release, and you have a PRST1, look out for an old Marin rear end, that way you can get rid of the chain stay, which caused me grief with chain jam in the granny ring
    -------------------------
    Whyte PRST 4
    EPX Terrashark
    Specialized Hardrock (Modified)

    -------------------------

  14. #14
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    2,501
    hey FJ, that's called a (modified) Hossack fork, BMW's recently reintroduced them on their high end sportbikes (K1200S or R or something I think?)

    You're right, Whyte may have actually been designing for Muddy Fox a couple years earlier.
    Some brits with better memories than me might weigh in on the subject.

    Whyte licenced his rear suspension design to Marin and they're still building them. Not the Whyte fork though.

    Sidenote: BMW's Telelever system was ripped off from the British Saxon design.
    (designer gave BMW a good couple months with his prototype, he forgot to have it patented first, they patented it, now he can't use his own design).

  15. #15
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    2

    Broken rear swing arm

    Hi Guys,

    I'm a PRST-1 owner, but mine's rather sickly so I'm in need of some help.

    The rear triangular swing arm has cracked on the chain ring side through the weld for the bearing. So I'm looking for one of the following:

    - Someone with a rear swing arm for PRST-1 they no longer want.
    - Someone with a PRST-1 frameset they no longer want
    - Some guidance on how successful welding the frame will be (an engineer friend of mine says it can be done).

    I'm pretty sure the rear swing arm is the same for all frame sizes and that I want part number PRES20SA, so if anyone knows where I can get one that would be great.

    Thanks
    Attached Images Attached Images

  16. #16
    ARCHQUEST
    Reputation: fjyang's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    152
    Sorry to see that happen on you PRST-1. It crack right around the single pivot so I recommend fixing it right away. I think your best bet is to try to get warrantey through ATB Sale who distribute Whyte in England. I'm sure they still have parts for the PRST's just not sure how much they want to charge you. Do you know what caused the crack?

    I seen a PRST-1 fitted with a elevated chain stay swingarm of the later JW-1 model's also from Whyte which is another options for you. I also think early 2000 Marin models which use the same single pivot rear swing arm as the Whyte's are interchangeable.

  17. #17
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    2
    A warrantee replacement would be ideal apart from 2 things: -
    1. Whyte only offer a 5 year warrantee
    2. They haven't got any in stock

    Having said that I'll try calling ATB myself, and maybe get some recommendations from good dealers who might have a frameset or something knocking about in the store room.

    Tell me more about the Marin option, and if you know which models might be compatible so I can start search EBay and the other forums.

    Thanks for your comments.

  18. #18
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    4

    prst1 owners

    Hi,

    i've just bought a prst1 , after many years of searching, for a decsent example, so another owner joins the ranks of the few..
    Apparently i am in need of a whyte setup template for the rear suspension, they were made from cardboard, so my question is has anyone still got one and if so could you please send me a photo, with the relevent diamensions on so that i could fabricate one.

    thanks in anticipation

    kevin

  19. #19
    ARCHQUEST
    Reputation: fjyang's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    152
    Quote Originally Posted by andyhyde66
    A warrantee replacement would be ideal apart from 2 things: -
    1. Whyte only offer a 5 year warrantee
    2. They haven't got any in stock

    Having said that I'll try calling ATB myself, and maybe get some recommendations from good dealers who might have a frameset or something knocking about in the store room.

    Tell me more about the Marin option, and if you know which models might be compatible so I can start search EBay and the other forums.

    Thanks for your comments.

    Sorry for such a late feedback but here it is, I know the 1999-2002 approx. Marin Mount Vision/East Peak rear swing arms are interchangeable with PRST-1's and Marin and Whyte all share the same bearing size and also Marin and Whyte have always joint develope rear suspension design's since late 90's. Even now you'll see that all carbon rear end of the Whyte E-120 have come across the atlantic and show up in 2009 Mount Vision after two year since its introduction in England.

    The rear disc adapter have since long gone from Whyte for the PRST-1's but I got a feeling if the Marin still have some adapter's left for their Mount Vision 99-2002 frames, it should bolt right on.

    Some like the clearance that was provided by the elevated chain stay design of the Marin's and Whyte JW-2's so many were transplanted by hardcore racers. Hope this helps.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by fjyang; 01-17-2009 at 07:28 PM.

  20. #20
    ARCHQUEST
    Reputation: fjyang's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    152
    Quote Originally Posted by jblackburn
    Hi,

    i've just bought a prst1 , after many years of searching, for a decsent example, so another owner joins the ranks of the few..
    Apparently i am in need of a whyte setup template for the rear suspension, they were made from cardboard, so my question is has anyone still got one and if so could you please send me a photo, with the relevent diamensions on so that i could fabricate one.

    thanks in anticipation

    kevin
    Whats wrong with your rear end? I think it'll be hard press to get some kind of CAD files release from ATB sales regarding the PRST's. Your best bet is to get a early 1999-2002 rear end from Marin directly if they still have some left or find one off ebay.

  21. #21
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    4

    set up template

    Hi,

    thanks for the reply, but the template i am enquiring about, is to set up the rear suspension, it states in the owner's manual, that you sit on the bike, put pressure into the rear shock and then check with the template, for correct travel, as for CAD files, that would'nt be a problem, as my brother has a wicked computer system linked to a lathe/cnc machine.

    thanks

    kevin

  22. #22
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    4
    Hi,

    thanks for the reply, don't need new rear end, just need setup template which was supplied with all new whyte's prst1's to set up the rear suspension.

    thanks

    kevin

  23. #23
    ARCHQUEST
    Reputation: fjyang's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    152
    Quote Originally Posted by jblackburn
    Hi,

    thanks for the reply, but the template i am enquiring about, is to set up the rear suspension, it states in the owner's manual, that you sit on the bike, put pressure into the rear shock and then check with the template, for correct travel, as for CAD files, that would'nt be a problem, as my brother has a wicked computer system linked to a lathe/cnc machine.

    thanks

    kevin
    You really don't need the template to setup your rear suspension, I think I have the cardboard stash somwhere. 20-25% sag is the rule, I go with 20% myself and you suppose to pump the rear shock to match your weight so 185lb person should use 185psi in their rear shock as a rule. Like everything else, these are just guidelines to get you started and one should adjust up or down to suit their riding style and terrain.

    Some newer rear shock and fork from RockShox already have the sag measurement printed on the shock pistons or stanchions so its even easier to setup.

    Hope this helps

  24. #24
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    4
    Hi,

    thanks for the info.
    does anyone know what the frame colour is called,apart from grey???and where can it be bought, for touching up stone chips.

    thanks

    kevin

  25. #25
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    119
    Quote Originally Posted by byknuts
    You're right, Whyte may have actually been designing for Muddy Fox a couple years earlier.
    Some brits with better memories than me might weigh in on the subject.
    I remember the Muddy Fox bike from my youth, but the muddy fox was originally designed by Dave Smart in the very early 90s, he then licensed the design to MF. Jon Whyte was a very famous Formula 1 race car designer before he created Whyte bikes. He was the head suspension designer for Benetton in 1994 when Schumacher won his first F1 championship. Amazing bloke who bought real fresh ideas to the bike world. He really revolutionised the full suspension market in the UK as his bikes were the staple of many riders in the mid 90s.

  26. #26
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    1,537
    IIRC about 4 or so years ago there was a dealer here in so cal had a number of these on ebay, new, a couple different builds, going for $500-600 or so, complete. Closeouts or somethin. Looked interesting, super cheap for the quality, but, (no offense of course) scary weird. You just don't know at the time what you passed up.
    Up close in photos they look pretty respectable.
    All bikes weigh 50 lbs. a 50lb. bike doesn't need a lock. a 40lb bike needs a 10lb. lock. a 30 lb. bike needs a 20lb. lock.

  27. #27
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    1
    Seems you can luck out occaisonally too - having scoured e-bay and classifieds for a PRST-4 in decent nick (having previously owned a PRST-1); I finally stumbled upon the ATB Sales ex-demo / sale bikes page; where I picked up this PRST-4 / JW-4 - I'm not sure if it's the last one they had left; but they must be onto pretty low stock by now !



    amazing bike to ride; the 4 definately cured all the problems I experienced with my 1 - namely chainsuck and the terror of destroying a swingarm on a passing rock

    If you're still around leshark; I'd be interested to know of any improvements / preventative maintenance it's worth doing on the quads; I'm planning on getting a decent quality spherical bearing as a 1st job when the original fails.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  28. #28
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    2
    Hi, I've managed to get a 2003 prst1 in really good condition. I've stripped it all the way down and rebuilt it with a lot of new parts. It was cable rim brakes but I've got a set of hydrolics for it. Whyte don't do the adaptor plates for the big gripper dropouts anymore but they were kind enough to provide me with the original cad drawings and I'm getting a set made up. Anyone else interested? I'm waiting on costs. Also, does anyone have a copy of the rear shock sag template at all so I can complete the setup please?

    Mark

  29. #29
    mtbr member
    Reputation: leshark's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    16
    Quote Originally Posted by thesphine
    Seems you can luck out occaisonally too - having scoured e-bay and classifieds for a PRST-4 in decent nick (having previously owned a PRST-1); I finally stumbled upon the ATB Sales ex-demo / sale bikes page; where I picked up this PRST-4 / JW-4 - I'm not sure if it's the last one they had left; but they must be onto pretty low stock by now !



    amazing bike to ride; the 4 definately cured all the problems I experienced with my 1 - namely chainsuck and the terror of destroying a swingarm on a passing rock

    If you're still around leshark; I'd be interested to know of any improvements / preventative maintenance it's worth doing on the quads; I'm planning on getting a decent quality spherical bearing as a 1st job when the original fails.
    I have managed to get through 2 Spherical bearings and both Shocks have been replaced, one just blew but the other was due to dirt getting into the seal, to try and stop this happening again I fitted a mudguard

    I also have had some bad cable rub on the front forks which I have sorted by redirecting the cables and adding cable ties to keep the cable from the frame.

    Also I fitted a neoprene chainstay protector to stop chain slap, although it wasn't scratching the frame the noise was annoying me (I used a mouse mat)

    I would really recommend a stripdown of the front sus and headset on a regular basis (this should be done on any top end bike) and regular replacement of cable inners, and the PRST's are super simple to stripdown an re-grease, unlike traditional forks!

    Hope this helps

    Rich
    -------------------------
    Whyte PRST 4
    EPX Terrashark
    Specialized Hardrock (Modified)

    -------------------------

  30. #30
    mtbr member
    Reputation: superguzz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    61
    Quote Originally Posted by Ceemac
    Hi, I've managed to get a 2003 prst1 in really good condition. I've stripped it all the way down and rebuilt it with a lot of new parts. It was cable rim brakes but I've got a set of hydrolics for it. Whyte don't do the adaptor plates for the big gripper dropouts anymore but they were kind enough to provide me with the original cad drawings and I'm getting a set made up. Anyone else interested? I'm waiting on costs. Also, does anyone have a copy of the rear shock sag template at all so I can complete the setup please?

    Mark
    Hi there.
    I am very very interested in original cad drawings so I could do its myself in a factory near my home.
    I am also interested in rear shock sag template 'cause I also do not own it.

    Thanks a lot for help.
    Kind regards.

  31. #31
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    2
    I've been riding my PRST-1 since the bike was first introduced. Love it. I'm just back from a weekend of riding in the Brecon Beacons and it still soaks up the rocks and tracks without being deflected.

    Where I'm not as happy is in the tight and twisty singletrack. The PRST-1 (Preston) is at home in the rocks but wallows too much in the hardpack and turns. Is there a fix?

    Would a platform shock (RP-23?) rejuvinate my bike in the woods whilst leaving its rocky performance untouched. I'm out of the loop on shock developments over the last few years but it would be great to find a techno fix for the only flaw in my bike's armoury.

    Cheers,

    P&R

  32. #32
    mtbr member
    Reputation: superguzz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    61
    Quote Originally Posted by pieandrun
    I've been riding my PRST-1 since the bike was first introduced. Love it. I'm just back from a weekend of riding in the Brecon Beacons and it still soaks up the rocks and tracks without being deflected.

    Where I'm not as happy is in the tight and twisty singletrack. The PRST-1 (Preston) is at home in the rocks but wallows too much in the hardpack and turns. Is there a fix?

    Would a platform shock (RP-23?) rejuvinate my bike in the woods whilst leaving its rocky performance untouched. I'm out of the loop on shock developments over the last few years but it would be great to find a techno fix for the only flaw in my bike's armoury.

    Cheers,

    P&R
    Hi there...
    I own a 2005 Turner Burner that was factory assembled with a Manitou; last year I changed to a fox RP-23 and the bike became impressive, hard when needed, soft over rock sections....

    The RP23 is very good, you can really feel the difference between the 3 propedal positions, and the unlocked option is useful in dh sections......also remember that the PRST single pivot scheme needs a stable platform suspension...

    kind regards
    sg, Italy

  33. #33
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    2
    As you may have noticed from other posts was lucky enought to get a 2003 Whyte PRST1 not that long ago. Since then it's been massively upgraded. The rear shock is a fox rp3 not the 23 but it certainly does a good job and I can't complain at all about it. The propedal works really well and I prefer that it's either on or off. An easy switch while on the move.

    Just to brag. Mine's now got new wider carbon bars with ergon grips, new Cane Creek headset, new XT 2009 front mech, rear mech, casette, hollow tech2 cracks and bottom bracket. New but 2008 xtr disk brake calipers with gear shift combo levers, Titanium discs (very flash,get me) fox rp3 rear shock with heavy duty ss top bushes and whyte upgraded bottom bushes (those make a big difference by the way). Easton xc2 wheels with slime tubes (not a big fan) and panaracer fire xc pro tyres, special self sealing silicon tape to protect the chain stay, lizard skin neoprine protectors on the shocks, fox float r on the front but that might get upgraded further. Replaced roll pins in the big grippers, SRAM 9 spd chain with powerlink (a dream for cleaning and maintaining) and helicopter tape anywhere that might rub. I think that's it. Oh and a bell! I'd forgotten that.

    Regards

    Mark

    Mark

  34. #34
    ARCHQUEST
    Reputation: fjyang's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    152
    I was surprise on how well the PRST's respond to shock mod's. The Fox RP23 or RP3's are a step up on the orignal Float R. I put a AVA canister on the front shock and it allows the shock to use most of its travel with a more linear spring rate, you need to squeez every inch you can get with a fixed 100mm/4" travel. I've also tried a X-fusion PVA shock on a Mrazek FS and vary impress with it and think it will perfrom better then my 07 Fox RP23, not sure about the latest RP23.

    I'd also got the CAD files for the rear disc plate but my source at the machine shop is gone so if anyone can get it made again, make a few more spars.

  35. #35
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    3
    Does anyone need a replacement frame or parts?

    My neighbor bought this Whyte PRST-1 in 2001 from his friends at the Electra Bicycle Warehouse. It's been ridden it to get coffee a handful of times. Everything is original, frame size is 18" and it needs a good home. The only part that's been replaced are the tires "too much friction", note the original spoke protector!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Any Whyte PRST-1, 4 Owners Out there?-img_5074.jpg  

    Any Whyte PRST-1, 4 Owners Out there?-img_5075.jpg  


  36. #36
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    2
    Good to hear the PRST-1 responds well to a bit of shock technology. Thanks.

    I think I'll give TF Tuned a go and see what I can achieve. Trust such an upgrade will also make me a better, fitter rider!

    I'll post back here with the result.

    Cheers,

    P&R

  37. #37
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    59

    If for sale how much?

    Does anyone need a replacement frame or par
    My neighbor bought this Whyte PRST-1 in 2001 from his friends at the Electra Bicycle Warehouse. It's been ridden it to get coffee a handful of times. Everything is original, frame size is 18" and it needs a good home. The only part that's been replaced are the tires "too much friction", note the original spoke protector![/QUOTE]

  38. #38
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    3

    asking price

    $800 obo.

  39. #39
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Velobike's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    6,561
    what's for sale, just the frame or whole bike?
    As little bike as possible, as silent as possible.
    Latitude: 57º36' Highlands, Scotland

  40. #40
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    3

    frame or whole bike?

    velobike + all:
    I'm selling the whole bike for $800.

  41. #41
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    1
    Hello all good to find some other keen PRST owners!

    my issue- I recently tried to fit a float RP23 shock to the front and the leaver balks on the frame. So i fitted to the rear. Now over 6 years ago just before i bought my bike I tried one at Noahs and it had a lockout fitted to the front shock.
    So has anyone managed to fit say a Fox float RPL? the modern ones seem to slightly larger in diameter. any views welcome.
    ncidentally I have changed all the Sus bearings FOC and sperical. Like some others I run with a small plastic mudguard to shield the front shock and both shocks are fitted with lizard skin boots.

  42. #42
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    1
    Just completed Mountain Mayhem 2010. Stacked my PRST-1 on the first lap, but restored my pride and completed 3 further laps. Team of 4 did 18 laps, so need to train for next year to break 20 lap ceiling ;-)

    Regretted doing test/practice rides on the Friday night (all on my own, in the mud!) and Saturday morning - but ho hum, will just ride at full tilt next year and discover the trail at race pace. Had some mods for the Race - new XT shifters, Gore Ride-On sealed gear cables which did me proud! Was bemused by the number of spectators (and riders - some passing me, others as I blasted past) commenting - "what the f**k is that!!!??" and "interesting steed..." Such an original bike - love her madly, considering she's just hit 10yrs old & gives young ,uns a damn good run...

  43. #43
    mtbr member
    Reputation: leshark's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    16

    Improvments......

    Quote Originally Posted by thesphine
    Seems you can luck out occaisonally too - having scoured e-bay and classifieds for a PRST-4 in decent nick (having previously owned a PRST-1); I finally stumbled upon the ATB Sales ex-demo / sale bikes page; where I picked up this PRST-4 / JW-4 - I'm not sure if it's the last one they had left; but they must be onto pretty low stock by now !



    amazing bike to ride; the 4 definately cured all the problems I experienced with my 1 - namely chainsuck and the terror of destroying a swingarm on a passing rock

    If you're still around leshark; I'd be interested to know of any improvements / preventative maintenance it's worth doing on the quads; I'm planning on getting a decent quality spherical bearing as a 1st job when the original fails.
    Hi, only just saw this comment..... I've tried to get better quality or different sorce of spherical, but I can get them from ATB for about a tenner, so I have two spare and clena it out every couple of months, I got mine from new so all the other bearings (inc. the shock ones) are lifetime bearings, I have stuck with split gear cables as its not my only bike its much easier to clean them after each ride and re-grece before a ride. I have a trimmed mud guard on the front, but no direct protection on the shocks as I clean the bike after (almost) every ride, I destroyed the front shock by not doing so. I have considered swapping the rear shock for a Fox RP23 to get heavy pro-peddle and keep my 40% sag I like and I believe with 40% sag the quad four rear is past its advantage. other than that good tyre choice is important, must be folding (for weight advantage) currently running Panaracer Fire XC pros, but too severe for dry riding, this is a light bike (riding) and seems to work best when crisp if you know what I mean!
    -------------------------
    Whyte PRST 4
    EPX Terrashark
    Specialized Hardrock (Modified)

    -------------------------

  44. #44
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    4
    Just been offered a PRST-1 in a straight swap for a Fender guitar. I'm going to ask the present owner if I can have the bike for a week to try it out given what I have read here.

    Any advise any of you would give me on this? Anything specific to look out for (other than the usual wear'n'tear things)?

    I look forward to your replies.

    Andy.

  45. #45
    mtbr member
    Reputation: leshark's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    16
    Quote Originally Posted by Andy Dobson
    Just been offered a PRST-1 in a straight swap for a Fender guitar. I'm going to ask the present owner if I can have the bike for a week to try it out given what I have read here.

    Any advise any of you would give me on this? Anything specific to look out for (other than the usual wear'n'tear things)?

    I look forward to your replies.

    Andy.
    Andy, on any bike check the following:
    Turn the bike upside down and spin the wheels, check they spin free and smooth and check for how straight they are, also roughly check the spokes are all tight
    check all the gears are cleanly selectable, no jumping, turning the bike back up, hold on the front brake and push the bike forward and feel for headset play. If its disc brakes run your finger over the rotors and check for bad wear.

    Other than that and more specific things to check, compress the suspension and hold each bearing/pivot area (only one on the rear, four on the front) and compress the suspension and feel for slight amounts of play, do the same with the upper and lower shock bushes (again front and rear), none of the bushes/bearings are particularly expensive, but if there's any play then they should be replaced.

    One to pay particular attention to is the rose bearing (or spherical) one on the front this can wear out in a very short amount of time, riding it will help, but it's important to setup the suspension properly, I work with about 1/4 compression at rest.

    Also look for excessive cable rub, there not expensive bikes to maintain, but can be if you take it to a shop, I have a couple of spherical bearings and there about a tenner a shot, I have also just replaced all my quad link bearings (PRST4) and there's 8 of them and they would have cost about (£45) but I would not expect these to go very often, shock bushes are only a few quid, again I have only replaced them once in the last few years.

    Hope it all works out, these are becoming rare and are now fetching reasonable money (considerably more than there Marin equivalents!)

    Lastly careful in granny ring, as the chain can jam on the chain stay if the running gear is not smooth
    -------------------------
    Whyte PRST 4
    EPX Terrashark
    Specialized Hardrock (Modified)

    -------------------------

  46. #46
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    4
    Thanks Leshark.

    I have to say I'm looking forward to getting my hands (and feet!) on this beast. I've never been one to follow the herd in either my musical career or with the MTB's or the motorbike's I've owned.

    Out of interest, I found this http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...=STRK:MEWAX:IT
    And this http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...=STRK:MEWAX:IT
    On ebay at the weekend. Expected them to go for far more than the final price!

    Thanks again for the info.

    Andy

  47. #47
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    1
    hi there just got another whyte prst1 and joined the forum.i had one before but didnt ride it much due to work commitments and sold it in a moment of weakness! found this one by accident while searching fleabay for parts for a kona build and it was only ten minutes down the road so rude not to have a bid! now im skint! a friend set the old one up for me so i am at a loss as to what pressures to run i have a fox pump in the post so wondering if anyone can shed some light on realistic starting point? i am 15 1/2 stone so a bit chunky! i am getting it down though so i am hoping for some sort of ballpark psi per stone estimate so i can lower the pressure as time goes on.finally got a job i can cycle commute so the future is bike shaped!!!

  48. #48
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    1
    Hi All, been reading the thread as i have also just purchased a PRST1 Works special with Discs. What tyres work best for XC, my understanding is to go for a wider aggressive front tyre & a norrow less aggressive tread in the REAR, does this apply to the PRST1.

  49. #49
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Bertie Bassett's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    2
    Hi all, I've just joined the forum and noticed the cracked frame around the main bearing of Andyhyde66's Whyte, had a look at mine and scared myself silly. I was out riding last night at warp-speed and hate to think what would have happened if it had let go. I think MTBR might have just saved me a trip to hospital! I hope ATB have got some stock left or I'm in the market for a new bike. I've already had a new frame and two new sets of forks, so the rear triangle, top link for the front forks and the steerer tube are the only original bits left of the original bike. Just for info, it isn't just the main frame that underwent a redesign, the plus fours were beefed up too to accomodate the additional strains of disc brakes. Mine curved backwards slightly at the bottom and showed fatigue cracks down the fronts of the legs. The pictures posted by leshark of the PRST-1 ans PRST-4 side by side show the differences at the bottom of the fork (more weld and gussetting on the -4)

  50. #50
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    4
    At last!!! PRST-1 is in da house:-).

    Needs a damn good clean and is still only on loan until the owner and I finally agree on our PX deal.

    Quick question, does anyone know where I can get some spare bobbins for the big grippers? I've got a really nice set of spare wheels and it would be cool to have a set of wet weather and a set of dry weather wheels that can just drop straight in.

  51. #51
    mtbr member
    Reputation: superguzz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    61
    Quote Originally Posted by Andy Dobson
    Quick question, does anyone know where I can get some spare bobbins for the big grippers? I've got a really nice set of spare wheels and it would be cool to have a set of wet weather and a set of dry weather wheels that can just drop straight in.

    Hi, I 2 years ago bought spare parts here:
    info@airevalleycycles.com

    bye
    "Walk softly and carry an armored tank division, I always say..."
    (Col. Nathan Jessup, "A Few Good Men", 1992)

  52. #52
    ARCHQUEST
    Reputation: fjyang's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    152
    Quote Originally Posted by stevew510
    Hi All, been reading the thread as i have also just purchased a PRST1 Works special with Discs. What tyres work best for XC, my understanding is to go for a wider aggressive front tyre & a norrow less aggressive tread in the REAR, does this apply to the PRST1.
    Tire wise, typically I put a at least a 2.1 on the front and up to 2.3 if the terrain warrant it and on the back a 2.0 or 1.95 size. The Panaracer Fire XC pro is a good tire and won't cost an arm or leg and I have good experiance with it in loose pack and muddy conditions. Continential Race King is also a good tire with little rollin resistance and good grip. Tire choice is vary personal thing with variables like region, climate, riding style, soil type etc. so maybe its best to talk to the local bike shop to find out what tires riders in your areas like.

  53. #53
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Bertie Bassett's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    2
    You could try ATB sales, they deal with Whyte and if the current big grippers are the same they'll be able to get you some.

  54. #54
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    4
    Sorted.

    As it happens, one of my local shops is a Whyte dealer. Parts should be here tomorrow.

  55. #55
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    1
    Hi, have just joined MTBR & thought I'd comment on this thread as I bought a second hand but immaculate PRST-4 a few days ago.
    A couple of things....
    1. How often should I get the front pivot joint of the front suspension serviced/greased?
    2. What's the best type/value air shock pump?
    3. Are there any known problems I should be looking out for?

    Thanks,
    CLockhart

  56. #56
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Mountain Cycle Shawn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    12,658
    These are cool! Anyone else out there have one? How is maintanence on them?

  57. #57
    mtbr member
    Reputation: superguzz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    61
    Hi there.
    I have one Prst-1 used but in good conditions, size L

    I SELL it because I own too many bikes (mc moho sts, turner burner, niner air9, a custom carbon 29er and a kona stinky)


    let me know about if interested
    superguzzAThotmailDOTcom


    thanks
    bye
    "Walk softly and carry an armored tank division, I always say..."
    (Col. Nathan Jessup, "A Few Good Men", 1992)

  58. #58
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    132
    here is mine ,, has been a single speed for most of it's life,, then in the winter it gets an alfine


  59. #59
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    132
    forgot to say it also runs a 24 inch front wheel,, as I think it needs more weight /grip on the front

  60. #60
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Mountain Cycle Shawn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    12,658
    That's nice! I want one. Couldn't you dial that out with different bar, stem and shock pressures.

  61. #61
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    132
    possibly but it was at the time a quick thing to try out ,, it worked so well that all my prestons have had a 24 inch front wheel

  62. #62
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Mountain Cycle Shawn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    12,658
    Right on! Do you have pictures of more of them? How do you like the ride. I'm about 5'9" tall, what size do you think would be best for me?

  63. #63
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    132

  64. #64
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Mountain Cycle Shawn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    12,658
    Nice bikes! What size do you think for me at 5'9"?

  65. #65
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    132
    Quote Originally Posted by Mountain Cycle Shawn View Post
    Nice bikes! What size do you think for me at 5'9"?
    Hi Shawn i am 5.10 and used to ride a 16" preston that one was stolen and was given an 18 to replace it ,,

    i prefered my 16 as you felt more in the bike than on it,, the top tube was short which ment a longer stem ont he 18 I run a shorter stem,,

    actualy i run a short high stem rather than the std 5 deg rise stem with the massive long std steerer , this is needed to clear the top link of the suspension but my short high stem does the job without the long steerer

  66. #66
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    28
    anyone on here an expert on PRST's i bought a whyte prst-1 works edition and i have some question about my new bike. the bike shops around here don't seem to know s*** about it and tell me if it brakes your f***ed.. i feel like they are angry i didn't a new bike from them...

    i want to know if their is any upgradable parts and where to buy parts if i need them, and what is the max pressure the fox float r shocks can handle. i'm 260lbs what should i put in the front and back.

    right now i bottoming out the rear if i go off curbs, and thats fine for now but i'm going to want more from it sooner or later.

  67. #67
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    132
    you should be able to get parts from your local Marin or whyte dealer,,
    as for setting up the suspension both ends should sag 25-30 % of the shock travel with you on it,,
    good luck with it

    i have three of them

  68. #68
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Mountain Cycle Shawn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    12,658
    Quote Originally Posted by ade ward View Post
    i have three of them
    You have 1 to many and I have none!

  69. #69
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    24

    650b?

    That gives me an idea, would it make sense running a 650b on the rear do you think?
    Quote Originally Posted by ade ward View Post
    possibly but it was at the time a quick thing to try out ,, it worked so well that all my prestons have had a 24 inch front wheel

  70. #70
    mtbr member
    Reputation: leshark's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    16
    Hi Bertie, there are only two differences between the PRST1 & 4 the four has a gusset at the top, but more importantly, the 1 was hand welded in the cotswalds (sounds great eh) where'as the 4 is robot welded in Taiwan, both exactly the same weight, but unfortunatly the hand welding was far inferior to the more precise robot welding, the early PRST1's suffered badly from frame breaks, the later ones not so bad, but I have not heard of any 4's breaking, the toggle for the big gripper is more sculptured on the 4 which give the impression of the lower being more bulky, hope you get the parts you need, remember the rear triangle is the same as several Marins, which were sold in much larger numbers, so I hope you get it back into order, as its still one of my favorite bikes for long treks!
    -------------------------
    Whyte PRST 4
    EPX Terrashark
    Specialized Hardrock (Modified)

    -------------------------

  71. #71
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    132
    Quote Originally Posted by leshark View Post
    Hi Bertie, there are only two differences between the PRST1 & 4 the four has a gusset at the top, but more importantly, the 1 was hand welded in the cotswalds (sounds great eh) where'as the 4 is robot welded in Taiwan, both exactly the same weight, but unfortunatly the hand welding was far inferior to the more precise robot welding, the early PRST1's suffered badly from frame breaks, the later ones not so bad, but I have not heard of any 4's breaking, the toggle for the big gripper is more sculptured on the 4 which give the impression of the lower being more bulky, hope you get the parts you need, remember the rear triangle is the same as several Marins, which were sold in much larger numbers, so I hope you get it back into order, as its still one of my favorite bikes for long treks!
    This is not actualy true , there were only 4 prototypes built in the Cotswolds , everything else was made in the apro factory in Taiwan ,
    The 1 had a very different swiningarm that came under the bb ,the rest had versions of Marin stuff

  72. #72
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    24
    Mine needs a new spherical bearing. Have you or anyone on here still got a spare?

  73. #73
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    4
    Hi all I'm new here from the uk.
    Just to say I bought a prst1 frame last summer and have just finished building with some lovely new components,once I figure how to post pics you will see mine

  74. #74
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Mountain Cycle Shawn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    12,658
    Store them at photobucket.com then copy and paste the img code, it's really easy.

  75. #75
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    4
    I can't.it says I have to post ten times before I can post pics.how silly

  76. #76
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    4
    I have managed to buy a spare prst-1 frame.i think I'm going to try fit a different swing arm on it.i wonder if a whyte 46 will fit.i know a jw arm will fit as there is a prst1 on eBay with one fitted.

  77. #77
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Mountain Cycle Shawn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    12,658
    Start posting!

  78. #78
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    4
    Hi there.
    Is there any one out there with a prst4 or alike rear end

  79. #79
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    2
    Another PRST-4 owner checking in.

    Just acquired a JW-4 frame to go along side it in the stable; unfortunately this one was sans-shocks. Any suggestions on where I can buy/obtain replacements?

    front: 165mm x 38mm
    rear: 160mm x 35mm

    Suitable shocks for the front (i.e. Fox Vanilla R) pop up occasionally on Ebay but its the rear shock that's stumping me. Was this a custom shock for these bikes?

  80. #80
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    24

    X Fusion - like fox but cheaper!

    A 165mm on both front and rear is what i have. I've just upgraded from a fox float to a X Fusion O2-RC (with pro-pedal adjust) on the rear and am very pleased with it. Got it off ebay for £50ish, cant say fairer than that!

    Basically any 165mm shock will suffice, tho they say coil is better on the front but air is better for the rear. However my vanilla bottomed out a bit on the front and its small bump compliance was nothing special, moving the float from the rear to the front resolved both these issues.

    Quote Originally Posted by ach1000 View Post
    Another PRST-4 owner checking in.

    Just acquired a JW-4 frame to go along side it in the stable; unfortunately this one was sans-shocks. Any suggestions on where I can buy/obtain replacements?

    front: 165mm x 38mm
    rear: 160mm x 35mm

    Suitable shocks for the front (i.e. Fox Vanilla R) pop up occasionally on Ebay but its the rear shock that's stumping me. Was this a custom shock for these bikes?

  81. #81
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    2
    Quote Originally Posted by killerisation View Post
    A 165mm on both front and rear is what i have. I've just upgraded from a fox float to a X Fusion O2-RC (with pro-pedal adjust) on the rear and am very pleased with it. Got it off ebay for £50ish, cant say fairer than that!

    Basically any 165mm shock will suffice, tho they say coil is better on the front but air is better for the rear. However my vanilla bottomed out a bit on the front and its small bump compliance was nothing special, moving the float from the rear to the front resolved both these issues.
    Sir, you are completely correct; its 165mm front and back. This makes life considerably easier (unfortunately it also means the rear shock on my PRST-4 needs servicing, sigh).

    Do you still have the Fox Vanilla? Out of curiosity what spring where you using?
    Last edited by ach1000; 08-03-2012 at 01:35 AM.

  82. #82
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    24
    I sold the vanilla. dunno what spring it was im afraid.
    Considering your rear shock should compress around 10mm just due to sag then i dont think you've got any serious problems with it.

    Quote Originally Posted by ach1000 View Post
    Sir, you are completely correct; its 165mm front and back. This makes life considerably easier (unfortunately it also means the rear shock on my PRST-4 needs servicing, sigh).

    Do you still have the Fox Vanilla? Out of curiosity what spring where you using?

  83. #83
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    15
    Just seen this incase it helps anyone and did a quick search to find out about this oddity.
    WHYTE PRST-1 X-Country Mountain Bike Warborough - OX10

  84. #84
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Posts
    2
    Hello all, great page and really useful to learn about my WHYTE PRST-1, here she is, had her about a month and sits nice in my collection...all get ridden.


  85. #85
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Posts
    2
    Have to admit I'm a bit worried about the frame cracking issue on these 2nd generation PRST-1 but it will never get airbourne

  86. #86
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    24
    That gusset should stop the cracking issue. From the fact that there are no visible paint chips it looks like this has pretty much never been ridden! You've done well. If upgrading anything go for disc brakes first, though it looks like you'd need new wheels for that, so seeing as you're not doing anything too extreme then you can probably just stick with what you've got.

  87. #87
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Posts
    1
    Just tagging onto this awesome thread about the Whyte PRST-1. I purchased a 2001 off Ebay and have been riding it for 13 years with minimal modifications. I am finally ready to sell this unique bike, and it will be hard to see it go...I am just ready for disc brakes and 29" wheels!! I have absolutely NO IDEA what this bike is worth these days, so we'll see if I get any bites on Craigslist. Glad to hear that so many others have had great experiences with theirs. Absolutely right that this thing steers like no other bike I have ridden.

  88. #88
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Hank Moody's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    54
    Any Whyte PRST-1, 4 Owners Out there?-img_1045.jpgAny Whyte PRST-1, 4 Owners Out there?-img_1044.jpgHey guys,
    Well I am now an owner of a Whyte prst-1, I always loved the look of these bikes, I seen one pop up on ebay and I think I just blanked out and put an offer on it and the seller accepted, so that means I paid too much. But its cool and I love it. I seem to be collecting all the bikes I could never buy when I was younger.

  89. #89
    Old school
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    1

    Just bought a PRST-1 Works Special

    Hi guys,I used to own a JW2. I thought it was perfect for light xc with the front suspension very smooth and reacts to the smallest bumps.You don't get that with normal forks.

    So i invested in a PRST-1 Works Special. I was looking for an original one with not too many miles on.I found this one with a few upgrades.i'm looking to change it back to the original spec for the Works Special.Do any of you know what the O.E. spec was?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Any Whyte PRST-1, 4 Owners Out there?-whyte-prst-works-special.jpg  

    Any Whyte PRST-1, 4 Owners Out there?-whyte-prst1.jpg  


  90. #90
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    24
    Try this. Page 22.
    Tip: dont convert it back to v-brakes.

    Quote Originally Posted by LEE MC View Post
    Hi guys,I used to own a JW2. I thought it was perfect for light xc with the front suspension very smooth and reacts to the smallest bumps.You don't get that with normal forks.

    So i invested in a PRST-1 Works Special. I was looking for an original one with not too many miles on.I found this one with a few upgrades.i'm looking to change it back to the original spec for the Works Special.Do any of you know what the O.E. spec was?

  91. #91
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Posts
    22
    Hi all
    Just bought a Prst 4 ? The fella on eBay called it a whyte jw 4 , anyway I collect it tomorrow can't wait , I know nothing about them other than what I've read on tinterweb , but saw it and thought that is the mutts nuts paid £470 don't know if it's a good price or not ? Has anyone got any ideas as to what upgrades to do or is stock the way to go?

  92. #92
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Posts
    22
    Love it !!

  93. #93
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Hank Moody's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    54
    Hey guys,
    That seems like a good price, I just sold mine a few months ago for 1,300.00. witch is good because I paid too much also, so it worked out for me. didn't want to sell it but I had to let it go too get something else I wanted more.

  94. #94
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    19
    It may well be a JW-4. The last bikes were a bit of a mix of parts.

    Both use the same frame triangle upper and lower wishbones and general geometry, the differences were in the components, and the bits at the ends of the frames;

    JW-4 has the tubular fork with standard Quick Release dropouts. The rear swingarm takes standard dropouts too. The PRST-4 uses a fabricated fork and has "Big Gripper" dropouts.

    If you're building up from a bare frame there's little choice between the two, both will serve you well. The big grippers are nice to have, and the fabricated fork of the more expensive bike adds to the look, but when riding I suspect you'd never know the difference.

    JW-4 / PRST-4 frames use rather more bearings than the single pivot JW-2 / PRST-1, which makes replacement a bit more expensive, however it's worth doing, since sticky bearings ruin the feel of the frame.

    The single most essential upgrades I've found are lightweight wheels, which allow that front end to work more effectively, and a pair of up to date shocks with selectable damping characteristics. This allows you run the right sag without blowing through all the travel when you hit the brakes.

    I am the happy owner of two of these fine bikes. Love them to bits.


  95. #95
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Hank Moody's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    54
    My prst-1 had the big gripper drop outs.

  96. #96
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    19
    Quote Originally Posted by Hank Moody View Post
    My prst-1 had the big gripper drop outs.
    The PRST1 was where the big gripper made its debut. Interestingly, Whyte have only recently phased the big gripper out in favour of the quick release through axle designs now common on new MTB's. Of course since the PRST / JW bikes ceased manufacture, they were only able to offer it on the rear of their bikes...

    The JW2, which was introduced as a "budget" version of the PRST-1, did without the big gripper, utilising instead a tubular fork at the front and the rear swingarm from the Marin range of MTB's, which were also a Jon Whyte design. The same thing happened on the PRST-4 / JW4 redesign, when the more sophisticated quad link "virtual pivot point"setup was adopted from the Marin's of the time. The PRST-4 got a bespoke swingarm, the JW-4 got one from the Marin parts bin. Geometry is identical, the big grippers are the only meaningful difference.

    Big gripper "bobbins" and axles are still available from Whyte, although only in rear axle size. It's easy enough to convert them though, simply run a die nut of the correct size (I think it's an M6) down the supplied axle and then cut off the excess to match your existing front axle. The rear derailleur hanger is also still freely available, since it was incorporated into a far wider range than the PRST's.

    What is not available from Whyte are any spare parts of note. Wishbones are all gone, with perhaps a fork or two still still kicking around the warehouse. When I spoke to them last year they had just built the "final" PRST-4 to take to trade shows etc. since it still pulls a crowd even now.

    There's also little in the way of information. Paint codes are a mystery, the best Whyte could do was tell me that it was a Mercedes colour on the PRST-4, and that the actual colours had some very wide variation on the finished bikes. The graphics used on the frames are similarly not available. The original artwork was probably paper based, and lost in the move between factories some time ago. This is problematic if you want to restore your bike to its former glory and want to use the original water slide decals.

  97. #97
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Posts
    22
    It is indeed a jw4 I much prefer the look of the forks on yours . Both shocks on mine are X Fusion 02 R do you know if these are any good? What's the difference between std drop out and big gripper . Forgive all my questions but I'm not clued up at all on the technical side of biking .

  98. #98
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    19
    I know nothing of of X-fusion, other than they are a budget brand of suspension components.

    Personally, I'd upgrade to something a bit more modern to take advantage of some the fairly major leaps in technology that have occurred since Whyte discontinued these bikes, since the suspension design is uniquely place to take maximum advantage of them. A pair of 165mm Fox shocks like the float RP23 work very well indeed, and are leagues ahead of the old float R's that I removed from my bikes.

    The Big gripper was a design that used two 20mm diameter "bobbins" that were bolted to the axles of a pair of normal wheels. These were then clamped into the bike with large hinged clamps on the frame and forks, and were a alternative way of gaining big increases in stiffness without resorting to through axles, which were pretty rare and expensive downhill racing parts when the PRST first came out. It's a clever design, and nice to have, but it's not essential by any means. You can't "upgrade" to big grippers with changing to a PRST frame, so it's a moot point anyway. Buy yourself a set of light wheels instead. I have a set of Spinergy's and Some Mavic's to choose from on mine, the original Hope wheels now live on my electric Hardtail. By far and away my favourite wheels for this bike are my Crank Brothers Cobalts, which share the "engineering oddity" of the PRST frame... I only wish I'd bought a pair in black...


  99. #99
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Posts
    22
    They suit the bike very well . 1st on the list will be the shocks I think then think about some wheels , thanks for your advice really appreciate it .

  100. #100
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    19
    Quote Originally Posted by Robbo73 View Post
    They suit the bike very well . 1st on the list will be the shocks I think then think about some wheels , thanks for your advice really appreciate it .
    Don't forget the bearings. There's two main types. The Swingarm and front wishbone bearings use a KP6A type which is usually pretty reliable. It was originally designed as a bearing for aircraft control surfaces. That might seem to be a bit if of a long way from a bicycle, but since both ailerons and swing arms have a limited range of motion and need to be sting, hard wearing and light, it's an inspired choice.

    Once the shocks are off then it's easy to feel if any are tight or rough in operation.

    The joker in the pack is the spherical bearing in the steering. It's a plain spherical bearing type PBA, size 10. However, there's a multitude of manufacturers, materials, and load ratings.

    Buy a cheap one and you'll get 6 weeks out if if you're lucky. The loading on the bearing is in the "wrong" direction, so it needs to be something special. I will be using flouro.de bearings in my bikes this year. The standard series PBA10 "GL" can cope with 7.5kN of axial load. That should be plenty, but sadly the cheaper bearings seem to fail due to the grit and crud that gets in them. The "GLRSW" spec is made from stainless steel, and is rated for loads over three times higher. That's what I'll be buying.

    Finally, if you're to have any confidence at all in the steering, don't forget to strip and rebuild the headset. It does very little actual work on a PRST, at least compared to normal bikes, but if it's worn or sticky, the steering really really suffers. It needs to be silky smooth so that it doesn't add to much stiction to that already supplied by the spherical bearing below it.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Members who have read this thread: 15

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •