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Thread: 6 Point photos

  1. #401
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    Quote Originally Posted by r-kelly
    Hi!

    Hopefully you guys can help out...I have a new 6point frame coming and I have some stupid questions...

    1.5 or 1.125" head tube?
    if 1.5" can i use a reducer to run a fork with a 1.125" steerer? - Which one? you should know the frame is coming with headset cups already pressed in

    next... regarding the rear shock
    its coming with the dhx5.0 and i've read the comments about the easy fix so it works well. But how does an RP23 work? If performance is the same i would rather go with the lighter and less complicated shock.

    Thanks in advance!
    It has a 1 1/4 zero stack headset. FSA makes a cheap very high quality headset.

    Shock wise, (I've tried MANY on the 6point) Van RC, Roco WC, Roco TST, Romic, feel the best. Any shock with a type of platform feels like wood on a DW linked bike.

    The RP23 will work as long as you are not jumping, dropping, or freeriding in general.You wont get the small bump compliance as you would with one of the shocks listed above but for AM it will work fine, I ran a Float R for a good amount of time, it was 'great'. The DHX 5 Air was by far the worst riding shock on the 6point. I could never get it set up to feel even remotely right.

    Hope that cleared some stuff up.
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  2. #402
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    The stock DHX-air is not a great shock for this bike. In fact any 'large volume' air shock won't really work well. You will find that the bike will 'wallow' and use up too much travel when you pedal which leads to your pedals smacking off rocks and energy wasted. The DHX air is improved a great deal if you switch the large cannister it comes with with a small RP3 canister. You can order the small can from FOX for about $25.00 or so. It lets you drop the air pressure down giving you better small bump comliance without blowing through the mid stroke.

    Although, I have to say, theres nothing like a Fox vanilla or Roco on this bike. It makes HUGE difference in the performance and is worth the weight penalty in most cases. The bike comes alive this way, buttery smooth up top and only uses mid stroke when it needs to.....

  3. #403
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    Quote Originally Posted by DirtDiggler
    The stock DHX-air is not a great shock for this bike. In fact any 'large volume' air shock won't really work well. You will find that the bike will 'wallow' and use up too much travel when you pedal which leads to your pedals smacking off rocks and energy wasted. The DHX air is improved a great deal if you switch the large cannister it comes with with a small RP3 canister. You can order the small can from FOX for about $25.00 or so. It lets you drop the air pressure down giving you better small bump comliance without blowing through the mid stroke.

    Although, I have to say, theres nothing like a Fox vanilla or Roco on this bike. It makes HUGE difference in the performance and is worth the weight penalty in most cases. The bike comes alive this way, buttery smooth up top and only uses mid stroke when it needs to.....
    Anyone ever sent a DHX air from a 6point to PUSH and let them work their magic? The smaller sleeve sounds easy, adding plastic to take up volume just kinda bothers me.

  4. #404
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    Unless things have changed, Push doesn't work on DHX-air shocks.

  5. #405
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    Quote Originally Posted by DirtDiggler
    Unless things have changed, Push doesn't work on DHX-air shocks.
    wow, that surprises me, but I just looked at their site and you are correct. I wonder why they don't tune DHX airs?

    they do sell air sleeves though, high volume $70 and standard is $50. i'm actually glad i checked it out because I need a seal kit for my old float R.

  6. #406
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    Thanks for the responses. I cant even wait to build the frame up.



    Does anybody have any thoughts about a non piggyback air shock like a rp3 vs the dhx air? It seems like the mod for the DHX Air is intended to reduce the shocks volume to increase bottom out resistance. I would rather skip the modification process and just run a rp23 with the propedal turned off. I couldprobably save weight and money. But if the rp23 sucks for this frame I over it.

  7. #407
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    R-Kelly,

    The mod for the DHX air is intended to improve the mid-stoke, not just the bottom out. Trust me.
    The float will work fine but 1.) The closest size is an 8.5" X 2.5" which will lower your BB and change the geometry of the bike. Stock shock is 8.75 X 2.5" 2.) The RP23 generally uses a large-volume sleeve which is the same one on the stock DHX-air, so it will feel similar to the stock DHX-air but bottom out on big hits.
    You're much better off trying the DHX-air the way it comes delivered on the bike and if you need more mid-stroke support just order a low-volume air sleeve for it. In general bottoming out is a non-issue with the DHX-air.
    Last edited by DirtDiggler; 05-13-2009 at 11:39 AM.

  8. #408
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    Thanks DD. I appreciate the opinion/explanation.

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    You got it man. You're going to love the ride!

  10. #410
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    Got my first ride on it today. Felt unbelievably smooth on a very familiar trail. Did some drops and jumps and was hitting them with more speed than usual and felt really stable in the air. Only two minor issues right now. Fisrt, the usual "midstroke wallow" (at this point I'm not sure if it's my head cuz I've read too much, or if it's real). Second is a little bit of play in the front wheel when installed in the fork, kinda thinking tolerances in the hub because they're no-names.

    btw, the minions that came with it are probably the heaviest tires I've ever seen, and a b*tch to get off the rims.
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  11. #411
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    Florida Fish

    The bike is looking nice!

    I have the same rims and hubs and they have zero play in them after over a year riding...so you might just try tightening the skewer up a little more.

    The wallow on the stock DHX is not in your mind, it wallows unless you pump it way up or add air into the piggyback, or change out the sleeve. It's not the suspension design but the shock itself.

    You can really improve the suspension depending on what shock you use. I would say almost anything is better than the DHX-air in stock form.... but once it's tweaked it works good enough.

  12. #412
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    Quote Originally Posted by DirtDiggler
    Florida Fish

    The bike is looking nice!

    I have the same rims and hubs and they have zero play in them after over a year riding...so you might just try tightening the skewer up a little more.

    The wallow on the stock DHX is not in your mind, it wallows unless you pump it way up or add air into the piggyback, or change out the sleeve. It's not the suspension design but the shock itself.

    You can really improve the suspension depending on what shock you use. I would say almost anything is better than the DHX-air in stock form.... but once it's tweaked it works good enough.
    I've tightened the maxle as much as possible (qr skewer and threaded axle) so I pretty sure it's the hub. I'm guessing the ID in the hub and the OD of the maxle are at opposite ends of their tolerance, leading to unfavorable interface. I did a little searching and maxle systems seem to have trouble with Hope hubs especially, but others too.

    as for the DHX, your links have been helpful, not sure which way I'm gonna go but probably do something.

  13. #413
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    hmmm, hub play seems to be mostly in the "end caps" that fit over the hub axle and the bearings. I just tried a different set that I had from an easton havoc wheelset and there was very little play between the end caps and the maxle. I'll probably talk to rscycle, but i may just get a new hub and skip this all in one step.

  14. #414
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    Quote Originally Posted by FloridaFish
    . Only two minor issues right now. Fisrt, the usual "midstroke wallow" (at this point I'm not sure if it's my head cuz I've read too much, or if it's real). Second is a little bit of play in the front wheel when installed in the fork, kinda thinking tolerances in the hub because they're no-names.

    btw, the minions that came with it are probably the heaviest tires I've ever seen, and a b*tch to get off the rims.
    Quote Originally Posted by FloridaFish
    hmmm, hub play seems to be mostly in the "end caps" that fit over the hub axle and the bearings.... I'll probably talk to rscycle, but i may just get a new hub and skip this all in one step.
    Dude maybe you should stop thinking about it and just ride the bike!

    A. You cannot feel the play in the hub when you're riding it, if you do then it's in your head.

    B. Mid-stroke smid-stroke you can't put a smaller can on it, try adjusting the pressure, ect...

    C. You're riding in Florida, dont tell me your trails require such fine tuning.

    D. Those tires roll so good, better than that what you put on there. Send them to me so I have a back up set!

    E. It's a freeride bike yes it's heavy, for a reason.


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    Yeah that's great advice... it's all in your head....LOL!!

    BTW. Some of the DW-link Turner guys are now doing the exact same mod on their shock that I recommended to improve mid-stoke support. Even DW (The designer) has said this before in a post, to use the smallest air volume shock you can find.
    http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.ph...13120#poststop
    Last edited by DirtDiggler; 05-18-2009 at 09:43 PM.

  16. #416
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    Quote Originally Posted by gunnirider
    Dude maybe you should stop thinking about it and just ride the bike!

    A. You cannot feel the play in the hub when you're riding it, if you do then it's in your head.

    B. Mid-stroke smid-stroke you can't put a smaller can on it, try adjusting the pressure, ect...

    C. You're riding in Florida, dont tell me your trails require such fine tuning.

    D. Those tires roll so good, better than that what you put on there. Send them to me so I have a back up set!

    E. It's a freeride bike yes it's heavy, for a reason.

    a. yes, i can feel the play in the hub while riding, everytime the wheel leaves and comes back into contact with the ground. RScycles was great and is sending a new set of bearings for the hub, hopefully it will clear it up.
    b. i think mr. diggler has addressed this already, but if i were a spelling/grammar nazi, i'd have a nice can of zyklon b potpourri for you.
    c. you don't know **** about florida.
    d. i never said anything about rolling resistance, i don't like heavy tires. send me some $$ and they're yours.
    e. if we're dealing with labels, and I assume a person of your caliber likes to label things as simply as possible, then it's actually an All Mountain/Freeride bike, and I didn't comment on the weight.

    so there you go, now **** off.

  17. #417
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    Quote Originally Posted by FloridaFish
    b. i think mr. diggler has addressed this already, but if i were a spelling/grammar nazi, i'd have a nice can of zyklon b potpourri for you.
    :
    So you're calling me out on my spelling and grammar?

    What can I say? My spelling and grammar is terrible and annoying on these forums, I can't argue that. I'm in my mid 30's and I'm still working on improving it!

    I also see other people making grammar and spelling mistakes all the time on these forums. I just don't think it's useful to call people out on it. People write fast to get their point across and sometimes make an error or two in return, it happens.

  18. #418
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    Quote Originally Posted by FloridaFish
    a. yes, i can feel the play in the hub while riding, everytime the wheel leaves and comes back into contact with the ground. RScycles was great and is sending a new set of bearings for the hub, hopefully it will clear it up.
    b. i think mr. diggler has addressed this already, but if i were a spelling/grammar nazi, i'd have a nice can of zyklon b potpourri for you.
    c. you don't know **** about florida.
    d. i never said anything about rolling resistance, i don't like heavy tires. send me some $$ and they're yours.
    e. if we're dealing with labels, and I assume a person of your caliber likes to label things as simply as possible, then it's actually an All Mountain/Freeride bike, and I didn't comment on the weight.

    so there you go, now **** off.
    well it's not the bike it's the rider... enjoy. I try to simplify things for tool bags who spend more time posting than riding and over analyze their bike cause they cant ride to save their life.

  19. #419
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    Quote Originally Posted by gunnirider
    well it's not the bike it's the rider... enjoy. I try to simplify things for tool bags who spend more time posting than riding and over analyze their bike cause they cant ride to save their life.
    huh? Sorry for "over analyzing" a brand new bike and suspension system that I've never ridden. I guess I should just "go balls to the wall" and get "gnarly extreme" without ever taking the time to try and tune my bike. I enjoy a troll just like anyone else but you're really not that good at it, try some "your momma jokes", maybe that'll get to me.

  20. #420
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    Quote Originally Posted by DirtDiggler


    So you're calling me out on my spelling and grammar?

    What can I say? My spelling and grammar is terrible and annoying on these forums, I can't argue that. I'm in my mid 30's and I'm still working on improving it!

    I also see other people making grammar and spelling mistakes all the time on these forums. I just don't think it's useful to call people out on it. People write fast to get their point across and sometimes make an error or two in return, it happens.
    sorry for the friendly fire, you were not the intended target. just wanted to get a nazi joke in there after gunni's mid-stroke schmid-stroke schtick.

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    Quote Originally Posted by FloridaFish
    sorry for the friendly fire, you were not the intended target. just wanted to get a nazi joke in there after gunni's mid-stroke schmid-stroke schtick.
    No worries FF, my wife is an English professor so I'm used to the criticism

  22. #422
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    Like I said...

    Quote Originally Posted by FloridaFish
    huh? Sorry for "over analyzing" a brand new bike and suspension system that I've never ridden. I guess I should just "go balls to the wall" and get "gnarly extreme" without ever taking the time to try and tune my bike.

    Yes set it up. duh! But you should just go and ride the bike and not have any preconceived notions about it, that's my point. You're over tech-ing before you have any clue how the bike is going to act-react. good luck

  23. #423
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    what kind of sag are you guys finding to work best?

  24. #424
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    well, got my new front bearings today (after more than 2 weeks) from RScycle and the wheel is solid. Now I'm just waiting until I can take this baby into the mountains and see how she does on the DH at Beech Mtn.

  25. #425
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    Quote Originally Posted by 92SE-R
    what kind of sag are you guys finding to work best?
    Regardless of the Bike make and model, Travel amount or rider 33% sag is what DAVE factored into his suspension.

  26. #426
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    Probably a stupid question, but is the right-side of the rear triangle supposed to be bent like this?



    I've looked a bunch of photos of other 6 Points, and it looks others are like mine and that it's part of the design. But I just want to make sure that I didn't somehow bend my frame this weekend.

  27. #427
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    Yes...it has that bend in it to line up with the link at the top.

    Hey just a suggestion: you should really use a chainstay protector. By the looks of it your going to chip away at the aluminum really quick. I use the stick on velcro wherever the chain makes contact with the bike (fuzzy side up). It quiets up the ride nicely too.

  28. #428
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    Quote Originally Posted by divisadero
    Probably a stupid question, but is the right-side of the rear triangle supposed to be bent like this?



    I've looked a bunch of photos of other 6 Points, and it looks others are like mine and that it's part of the design. But I just want to make sure that I didn't somehow bend my frame this weekend.
    Its the design, your golden pony boy
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  29. #429
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    Quote Originally Posted by DirtDiggler
    Yes...it has that bend in it to line up with the link at the top.

    Hey just a suggestion: you should really use a chainstay protector. By the looks of it your going to chip away at the aluminum really quick. I use the stick on velcro wherever the chain makes contact with the bike (fuzzy side up). It quiets up the ride nicely too.
    Thanks. Stupid question, I know. I figured it was the design, but I couldn't verify it otherwise.

    As for the chainstay guard, yeah, my Iron Horse one flew off a couple weeks ago. I'm just going to wrap part of an old tire around it with some zip ties.

  30. #430
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    New wheel set. Now this thing weighs a TON!!!
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  31. #431
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nagaredama
    Nothing since the stock shock is 8.75" x 2.5". Using an 8.5" x 2.5" shock will lower the BB and slacken the head angle.

    Hi Guys,

    Okay so changing to an 8.5x2.5 rear shock won't reduce the rear travel of the frame. Can anyone tell me exactly what HA and BB height i'll get if i run:

    1) 8.5 x 2.5 rear shock?
    2) 8.5 x 2.5 rear shock plus an Enduro headset extender?

    Thanks!

  32. #432
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    Quote Originally Posted by DarKmaN
    Hi Guys,

    Okay so changing to an 8.5x2.5 rear shock won't reduce the rear travel of the frame. Can anyone tell me exactly what HA and BB height i'll get if i run:

    1) 8.5 x 2.5 rear shock?
    2) 8.5 x 2.5 rear shock plus an Enduro headset extender?

    Thanks!
    I don't recall what fork you have.
    Typical 160mm fork is 545mm A2C.
    Stock shock and stock 160mm fork is 68 deg HA.
    I run a 180mm fork with a A2C of 565mm. This put the HA right around 67 deg and a BB height of 14.2". I just switched to a 8.5" i2i shock yesterday and measured the BB height at 13.8". Not sure on head angle. Obviously is less than 67 deg. Probably around 66 deg.

    I know you asked for EXACTLY but this is all I can give...
    Stock BB heigh is 13.8". Changing shock to 8.5" i2i should drop it to about 13.3-13.4".
    Add 15mm (externalizer) to 545mm = 560mm. 5mm less than my 180mm 66. This would put HA near 67 deg and BB height should be around 14".
    Now add the shorter i2i and you will be near 66 deg and a BB height around 13.6".
    Bear in mind that I am just extrapolating these numbers based on my bike but I am fairly confident in my estimation.

  33. #433
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    Quote Originally Posted by wormvine
    I don't recall what fork you have.
    Typical 160mm fork is 545mm A2C.
    Stock shock and stock 160mm fork is 68 deg HA.
    I run a 180mm fork with a A2C of 565mm. This put the HA right around 67 deg and a BB height of 14.2". I just switched to a 8.5" i2i shock yesterday and measured the BB height at 13.8". Not sure on head angle. Obviously is less than 67 deg. Probably around 66 deg.

    I know you asked for EXACTLY but this is all I can give...
    Stock BB heigh is 13.8". Changing shock to 8.5" i2i should drop it to about 13.3-13.4".
    Add 15mm (externalizer) to 545mm = 560mm. 5mm less than my 180mm 66. This would put HA near 67 deg and BB height should be around 14".
    Now add the shorter i2i and you will be near 66 deg and a BB height around 13.6".
    Bear in mind that I am just extrapolating these numbers based on my bike but I am fairly confident in my estimation.

    Thank you for explaining that to me. I'm not too good with Axle to crown measurements are new to me but I seem to get your point. I have a van36. 66-66.5 deg HA sounds good to me but the 13.6 BB height sounds a bit too low for my taste... Thanks again!

    To those who have used a headset extender, will any external headset fit (e.g., CK) or do I really have the get the Enduro? thanks

  34. #434
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    Need the Enduro - the standard ones don't fit.

    FWIW I've tried ALL the different combos on mine. The 8.5 i2i takes the DW link out of the resting leverage zone and your bike will bob while pedalling uphill. For some this won't matter and the lower c of g helps rail corners on downhills but you WILL clip rocks with such a low BB height. Adding the headset extender with the shorter shock slackens the HTA too much unless you just plan to use it for DH. I went with a 2.75" stroke 8.75" i2i coil over and the bike pedals like a dream as well as take the big hits MUCH better. I do use the headset externalizer so that gave me 2/3 of a degree more slack so I am right at 66.8 or so which is perfect for what I use it for (freeriding). Very happy with this setup, never clip rocks anymore, and bike pedals much better than with a 8.5" i2i shock.

    Have FUN!

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  35. #435
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gman086
    Need the Enduro - the standard ones don't fit.

    FWIW I've tried ALL the different combos on mine. The 8.5 i2i takes the DW link out of the resting leverage zone and your bike will bob while pedalling uphill. For some this won't matter and the lower c of g helps rail corners on downhills but you WILL clip rocks with such a low BB height. Adding the headset extender with the shorter shock slackens the HTA too much unless you just plan to use it for DH. I went with a 2.75" stroke 8.75" i2i coil over and the bike pedals like a dream as well as take the big hits MUCH better. I do use the headset externalizer so that gave me 2/3 of a degree more slack so I am right at 66.8 or so which is perfect for what I use it for (freeriding). Very happy with this setup, never clip rocks anymore, and bike pedals much better than with a 8.5" i2i shock.

    Have FUN!

    G MAN

    Thanks GMAN. Damn, No Enduro's were I live and taxes will kill me if I buy online.

    So that's about a 66.8 HA with a Lyrik up front plus an externalizer and an 8.57x2.75 rear..got it..thanks!

  36. #436
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    Quote Originally Posted by DarKmaN
    Thanks GMAN. Damn, No Enduro's were I live and taxes will kill me if I buy online.

    So that's about a 66.8 HA with a Lyrik up front plus an externalizer and an 8.57x2.75 rear..got it..thanks!
    With a 8.5 shock it will be slacker than that.
    Here is my old 6point with a 8.5x2.5 Float and a Magura Wotan


    It felt like 65ish. No where near 67.

    You'll tag pedals, bash guard etc. It will feel like a mini dh rig.

    With the externalizer it will be even slacker!
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  37. #437
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    Quote Originally Posted by motormonkeyr6
    With a 8.5 shock it will be slacker than that.
    Here is my old 6point with a 8.5x2.5 Float and a Magura Wotan


    It felt like 65ish. No where near 67.

    You'll tag pedals, bash guard etc. It will feel like a mini dh rig.

    With the externalizer it will be even slacker!

    Thanks for the picture. I actually plan to convert my 6point into a light duty DH bike... The slack HA is very appealing but I'm a bit worried about the low BB height if I use an 8.5x2.5 rear shock. I am hesitant to go 8.75x2.75 because I have a 160mm fork up front and it will only make the HA steeper than it already is (even with an externalizer)... I guess my best bet would be to stick to a 8.75x2.5 coil rear shock if I can find one over here...Fox doesn't make one too..darn.

  38. #438
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    Quote Originally Posted by DarKmaN
    Thanks for the picture. I actually plan to convert my 6point into a light duty DH bike... The slack HA is very appealing but I'm a bit worried about the low BB height if I use an 8.5x2.5 rear shock. I am hesitant to go 8.75x2.75 because I have a 160mm fork up front and it will only make the HA steeper than it already is (even with an externalizer)... I guess my best bet would be to stick to a 8.75x2.5 coil rear shock if I can find one over here...Fox doesn't make one too..darn.
    Throwing a 8.75x2.75 shock on there will slacken it out as well. You sit in more of the travel compared to a 2.5" stroked shock.

    Never was the bottom bracket to low with a 8,5 shock that it inhibited my riding. I got use to the low bb after the 1st or 2nd ride. I then switched over to a Turner DHR that had an even lower bb
    Gamut
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  39. #439
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    Quote Originally Posted by motormonkeyr6
    Throwing a 8.75x2.75 shock on there will slacken it out as well. You sit in more of the travel compared to a 2.5" stroked shock.
    I never thought of that but you're right! I'd guesstimate my HTA is more in the 66-66.5 deg range. I really like that setup. How do you like the Turner? You still have the 6 point frame for sale? Sent you a pm on ridemonkey.com.

    Have FUN!

    G
    "There's two shuttles, one to the top and one to the hospital" I LOVE this place!!!

  40. #440
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gman086
    I never thought of that but you're right! I'd guesstimate my HTA is more in the 66-66.5 deg range. I really like that setup. How do you like the Turner?

    Have FUN!

    G
    I ran a gaggle of shocks and sizes on the 6point. 8.75x2.75 Roco WC and Fox Van RC as well as a 8.5x2.5 Fox Float R, Van RC, Fox DHX 5 Air and a DHX 5 Coil, RS Pearl 3.1 and a 5th Element Coil.

    By far, they best feeling shock was the 8.5x2.5 Van RC (old school yes, but felt amazing) 2nd to that shock would have been the 8.75x2.75 Roco WC. Finding a shock with no propedal is key!

    The Fox DHX 5 Air and the DHX 5 Coil and the Float R felt like garbage.

    I loved the Turner, had a good crash that killed the bike alittle over a month ago. Totalled the drivetrain and the fork, knocked myself out real good too. So I sold everything I owned bike related and am in the process of getting a motorcycle.
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  41. #441
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    Quote Originally Posted by motormonkeyr6
    I ran a gaggle of shocks and sizes on the 6point. 8.75x2.75 Roco WC and Fox Van RC as well as a 8.5x2.5 Fox Float R, Van RC, Fox DHX 5 Air and a DHX 5 Coil, RS Pearl 3.1 and a 5th Element Coil.

    By far, they best feeling shock was the 8.5x2.5 Van RC (old school yes, but felt amazing) 2nd to that shock would have been the 8.75x2.75 Roco WC. Finding a shock with no propedal is key!

    The Fox DHX 5 Air and the DHX 5 Coil and the Float R felt like garbage.

    I loved the Turner, had a good crash that killed the bike alittle over a month ago. Totalled the drivetrain and the fork, knocked myself out real good too. So I sold everything I owned bike related and am in the process of getting a motorcycle.
    Aren't you a lighter rider as I recall? I think that along with the fact that DW link bikes need custom tuned compression damping (about a third of what comes with out-of-the-box shocks) may have swayed your thinking. That 5th on mine was gutted and internals replaced with all Avalanche internals spec'd to my weight and riding style. And now includes hi and low speed comp damping with no platform. Before that I was getting frustrated myself with rear shocks on a 6 Point.

    Good luck with the MX scene; have some buddies who are pro and keep trying to get me over to the dark side but I get my gearhead fix during winter months with 200 HP snowmobiles. Softer landings, lol

    Have FUN!

    G
    "There's two shuttles, one to the top and one to the hospital" I LOVE this place!!!

  42. #442
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gman086
    Aren't you a lighter rider as I recall? I think that along with the fact that DW link bikes need custom tuned compression damping (about a third of what comes with out-of-the-box shocks) may have swayed your thinking. That 5th on mine was gutted and internals replaced with all Avalanche internals spec'd to my weight and riding style. And now includes hi and low speed comp damping with no platform. Before that I was getting frustrated myself with rear shocks on a 6 Point.

    Good luck with the MX scene; have some buddies who are pro and keep trying to get me over to the dark side but I get my gearhead fix during winter months with 200 HP snowmobiles. Softer landings, lol

    Have FUN!

    G
    Very light indeed. 125 fully geared... That is why the Van RC's felt so darn good. There is little to no compression damping. To make a IH DW bike feel top notch you really have to get a custom tune like you have done. Or go with an old school Van RC or a Romic.

    Actually I'm getting a street bike. Alot safer... haha. There is something about 0-60mph in 2.9 seconds that makes me happy in the pants. Its almost as good as dropping a 15 footer to tranny, almost...
    Gamut
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  43. #443
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    Quote Originally Posted by motormonkeyr6
    Throwing a 8.75x2.75 shock on there will slacken it out as well. You sit in more of the travel compared to a 2.5" stroked shock.
    I was thinking totally the opposite.. Thanks for the info!

  44. #444
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    Quote Originally Posted by motormonkeyr6
    By far, they best feeling shock was the 8.5x2.5 Van RC (old school yes, but felt amazing) 2nd to that shock would have been the 8.75x2.75 Roco WC. Finding a shock with no propedal is key!
    Okay... can you please provide a list of rear shocks that you think will work best on the 6pt (besides the Rocco WC and Van RC)? Thanks!

  45. #445
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    Quote Originally Posted by DarKmaN
    Okay... can you please provide a list of rear shocks that you think will work best on the 6pt (besides the Rocco WC and Van RC)? Thanks!

    Ow and why is less damping better on the 6pt? Just curious...

  46. #446
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    Because the leverage ratio is very different for DW link bikes. Without a custom DW tune(or "Sunday tune" as they're sometimes called) you're pretty much screwed.

    Have FUN!

    G
    "There's two shuttles, one to the top and one to the hospital" I LOVE this place!!!

  47. #447
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    Quote Originally Posted by DarKmaN
    Ow and why is less damping better on the 6pt? Just curious...
    All shocks have a minimum amount of damping. So that's a given.
    It's about where the range of damping occurs that's most important to a dw link bike. Just cause the dw link design reduces unwanted suspension movement during pedaling does not mean you do not need more compression at certain times.
    It depends on the terrain. If I am riding a very bumpy trail with no drops or jumps, I would want very little compression or rebound. I want the shock to move quickly over the bumps.
    But this won't help if I suddenly drop off a 8 footer. Most likely I would bottom out. I might need to add more compression and rebound resistance for those types of events. It's sometimes a tradeoff with basic shocks like a Fox Float R. Some higher end shocks have BO protection independent of low speed compression. It helps keep the overall feel plush but still able to take big hits.

    But the dw link has a very low leverage ratio and this fact sometimes puts the minimum damping of some shocks too high. So you cannot go lower to make the rear plusher which can affect small bump compliance.
    The shock has to be revalved to lower the range to get the least amount of damping needed to make the bike perform as desired.

    The best shocks for a dw link bike IMO are ones that have externally adjustable compression and rebound and are custom valved to provide a suitable range for the leverage ratio and rider preference.

  48. #448
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    Quote Originally Posted by wormvine
    All shocks have a minimum amount of damping. So that's a given.
    It's about where the range of damping occurs that's most important to a dw link bike. Just cause the dw link design reduces unwanted suspension movement during pedaling does not mean you do not need more compression at certain times.
    It depends on the terrain. If I am riding a very bumpy trail with no drops or jumps, I would want very little compression or rebound. I want the shock to move quickly over the bumps.
    But this won't help if I suddenly drop off a 8 footer. Most likely I would bottom out. I might need to add more compression and rebound resistance for those types of events. It's sometimes a tradeoff with basic shocks like a Fox Float R. Some higher end shocks have BO protection independent of low speed compression. It helps keep the overall feel plush but still able to take big hits.

    But the dw link has a very low leverage ratio and this fact sometimes puts the minimum damping of some shocks too high. So you cannot go lower to make the rear plusher which can affect small bump compliance.
    The shock has to be revalved to lower the range to get the least amount of damping needed to make the bike perform as desired.

    The best shocks for a dw link bike IMO are ones that have externally adjustable compression and rebound and are custom valved to provide a suitable range for the leverage ratio and rider preference.
    Good post but I'll add that the DW link goes from progressive to linear. This means that you can dial in the right amount of high speed compression but still bottom out easily UNLESS you have BO control as you stated. That is critical for this bike in FR/DH applications. My Avy tuned 5th has it's resy nitrogen charged with adjustable volume (I'm at 1.5 turns in) so I was able to have my cake and eat it to. Compression is perfect for normal riding and I don't bottom; my Lyrik will bottom before the Avy does. Custom tuning is the only way to go for these darn DW bikes but once you're dialed they RAWK!

    Have FUN!

    G MAN

    PS - Some XC riding with the Avy tuned 5th looking for "funner" lines:
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    "There's two shuttles, one to the top and one to the hospital" I LOVE this place!!!

  49. #449
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gman086
    Good post but I'll add that the DW link goes from progressive to linear. This means that you can dial in the right amount of high speed compression but still bottom out easily UNLESS you have BO control as you stated. That is critical for this bike in FR/DH applications. My Avy tuned 5th has it's resy nitrogen charged with adjustable volume (I'm at 1.5 turns in) so I was able to have my cake and eat it to. Compression is perfect for normal riding and I don't bottom; my Lyrik will bottom before the Avy does. Custom tuning is the only way to go for these darn DW bikes but once you're dialed they RAWK!

    Have FUN!

    G MAN

    PS - Some XC riding with the Avy tuned 5th looking for "funner" lines:
    Yeah good point. Leverage curves need to be factored in as well. I def know what you mean. I have a volume modified dhx 5 air and I run main and boost pressure fairly low but I have the BO volume at the lowest. It works and is fairly plush.

    I bought a ROCO WC air for my wife's new Glory FR and I slapped it on the 6point for a ride. Good range of compression and dedicated BO. I kind of don't want to give it back.
    An Avy 5th would be great. Such a good idea. So would the new DHX modified with avy internals by PUSH.

  50. #450
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gman086
    Good post but I'll add that the DW link goes from progressive to linear. This means that you can dial in the right amount of high speed compression but still bottom out easily UNLESS you have BO control as you stated. That is critical for this bike in FR/DH applications. My Avy tuned 5th has it's resy nitrogen charged with adjustable volume (I'm at 1.5 turns in) so I was able to have my cake and eat it to. Compression is perfect for normal riding and I don't bottom; my Lyrik will bottom before the Avy does. Custom tuning is the only way to go for these darn DW bikes but once you're dialed they RAWK!

    Have FUN!

    G MAN

    PS - Some XC riding with the Avy tuned 5th looking for "funner" lines:
    Gman- are your riding a 160mm fork with the externalizer.

  51. #451
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    Quote Originally Posted by nadinno78
    Gman- are your riding a 160mm fork with the externalizer.
    Yes, the Lyrik Solo Air; great fork!
    "There's two shuttles, one to the top and one to the hospital" I LOVE this place!!!

  52. #452
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    Thanks for all the replies guys, now i know what to do!

  53. #453
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    in action at alpe d'huez during the megavalanche week


  54. #454
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    Quote Originally Posted by drLEE
    in action at alpe d'huez during the megavalanche week

    Great picture!.....perfect bike for that event I bet.

  55. #455
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    Dang. The panning on that shot is fantastic!
    Meh.

  56. #456
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    Quote Originally Posted by DarKmaN
    Okay... can you please provide a list of rear shocks that you think will work best on the 6pt (besides the Rocco WC and Van RC)? Thanks!
    Roco RC
    Roco WC
    PUSH'ed DHX 5
    Van RC
    RS Vivid with the A tune

    Those are the only shocks I would run on a DW link'd bike
    Gamut
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  57. #457
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    I always thought the 6 point would be perfect for the mega.

    How did it fare and what spec did you built it with?

    Cheers

  58. #458
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    Quote Originally Posted by motormonkeyr6
    Roco RC
    Roco WC
    PUSH'ed DHX 5
    Van RC
    RS Vivid with the A tune

    Those are the only shocks I would run on a DW link'd bike
    Can anyone vouch for the Vivid on the 6 Point? Also what size would be best to go with?
    ------------------------------------------------------------

    He who dies with the most toys wins...

  59. #459
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    Quote Originally Posted by motormonkeyr6
    Roco RC
    Roco WC
    Were these the coil versions of the roco? Anyone try the roco air?

  60. #460
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    Quote Originally Posted by FloridaFish

    btw, the minions that came with it are probably the heaviest tires I've ever seen, and a b*tch to get off the rims.

    HOLY CR*P are these tires a pain to get off the rim, Got my first flat last night, working on these heavy beasts trail side.... what a pain.

  61. #461
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    6point in action

    mid stroke-smidstroke
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  62. #462
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    Quote Originally Posted by snownow
    HOLY CR*P are these tires a pain to get off the rim, Got my first flat last night, working on these heavy beasts trail side.... what a pain.
    All the tires that I've put on have been a pain. I haven't needed levers to change a tire until my 6 point.

  63. #463
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    I hope you're running tubeless there gunni, you look really close to a pinch flat on that landing

  64. #464
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    So I called fox this morning trying to get a smaller volume air sleeve, like I keep reading about here on MTBR. But according to the CS rep they don't have anything in that size.

    Maybe the rep is wrong but I wanted to know, specifically, what everyone else has been ordering.

  65. #465
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    Quote Originally Posted by nadinno78
    So I called fox this morning trying to get a smaller volume air sleeve, like I keep reading about here on MTBR. But according to the CS rep they don't have anything in that size.

    Maybe the rep is wrong but I wanted to know, specifically, what everyone else has been ordering.
    Pretty sure that people are ordering the Float air sleeve. I could be wrong...
    Gamut
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  66. #466
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    Quote Originally Posted by motormonkeyr6
    Pretty sure that people are ordering the Float air sleeve. I could be wrong...
    I was looking at getting a Float sleeve also, but there I couldn't find an exact match on the size. Specifically there isn't a Float with the same eye-to-eye as the DHX, if I remember correctly. I think I'm gonna try the cutout foam method to take up volume in the extra air chamber.

  67. #467
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    Quote Originally Posted by FloridaFish
    I was looking at getting a Float sleeve also, but there I couldn't find an exact match on the size. Specifically there isn't a Float with the same eye-to-eye as the DHX, if I remember correctly. I think I'm gonna try the cutout foam method to take up volume in the extra air chamber.
    Dont put Float fluid in the shock. :9 Been there, done that. No good.
    Gamut
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  68. #468
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    I blew up some o-rings in my Lyrik Solo Air (came with bike) and RockShox is replacing it under warranty, seems to be a known issue. Happened on the first serious beating that I gave the bike on the downhill course at Beech mtn in NC. Anyway, just passing it along.

  69. #469
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikodude
    I hope you're running tubeless there gunni, you look really close to a pinch flat on that landing
    nope just 2.5 minions...

  70. #470
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    better late than never

  71. #471
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    Small Volume

    Quote Originally Posted by FloridaFish
    I was looking at getting a Float sleeve also, but there I couldn't find an exact match on the size. Specifically there isn't a Float with the same eye-to-eye as the DHX, if I remember correctly. I think I'm gonna try the cutout foam method to take up volume in the extra air chamber.

    You can definitely get the 2.5" float small volume sleeve that fit's on the 2.5" DHX air, but I have never called to see if they make a 2.75" length sleeve. I assume not since the Fox Float doesn't come in 2.75" stroke.

    Filling the small outer sleeve with plastic is an easy way to reduce the volume, and it's easy to undo. I actually removed the small outer sleeve altogether and carefully sealed/plugged the tiny air hole with some really strong glue. I have been riding the shock this way hard all summer without any leaks or issues. I've even bottomed out the shock and the glue hasn't popped out. You can see the pic below, the zip tie is just to stop the glue in the pin sized hole from accidentally projectiling into my leg if it comes lose!

    I noticed that the 2009 Fox DHX uses a small volume sleeve now. Look at the picture I attached. There is no 2nd outer sleeve like the one we have on our shocks. It also looks like that new sleeve would fit the older DHX air as it looks exactly same as the float sleeve. It might be worth asking Fox if the 09 dhx-air sleeve will fit the 07-08. They might tell you it won't either way, but I bet it does. Fox realized this shock works better with less volume.


    -Dirt
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    Last edited by DirtDiggler; 09-10-2009 at 10:14 PM.

  72. #472
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    Quote Originally Posted by tfree120
    better late than never
    VERY nice.
    Gamut
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  73. #473
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    That setup looks awesome!

    What's the weight on that?

  74. #474
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    love the raw look!

    I'm getting my 6point powder coated today, semi flat black to match the lyric. it should look pretty sick when done.

    Is the 6point ISCG '05 or old? Im pretty sure it's '05 but cant find it on the website. thanks!
    nothing witty here...

  75. #475
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    Thanks, I LOVE the bike. It is ISCG 05. Weight is 33 lb 1 oz. I would love to see the bike in flat black.

  76. #476
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    Quote Originally Posted by DirtDiggler
    You can definitely get the 2.5" float small volume sleeve that fit's on the 2.5" DHX air, but I have never called to see if they make a 2.75" length sleeve. I assume not since the Fox Float doesn't come in 2.75" stroke.

    Filling the small outer sleeve with plastic is an easy way to reduce the volume, and it's easy to undo. I actually removed the small outer sleeve altogether and carefully sealed/plugged the tiny air hole with some really strong glue. I have been riding the shock this way hard all summer without any leaks or issues. I've even bottomed out the shock and the glue hasn't popped out. You can see the pic below, the zip tie is just to stop the glue in the pin sized hole from accidentally projectiling into my leg if it comes lose!

    I noticed that the 2009 Fox DHX uses a small volume sleeve now. Look at the picture I attached. There is no 2nd outer sleeve like the one we have on our shocks. It also looks like that new sleeve would fit the older DHX air as it looks exactly same as the float sleeve. It might be worth asking Fox if the 09 dhx-air sleeve will fit the 07-08. They might tell you it won't either way, but I bet it does. Fox realized this shock works better with less volume.


    -Dirt
    thanks for the update, I think I'm gonna try to plug the hole and see if that works, it not then I'll just get the new 09 sleeve.

  77. #477
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    Damn man that is light!

    Good job.

  78. #478
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    No good

    Quote Originally Posted by FloridaFish
    thanks for the update, I think I'm gonna try to plug the hole and see if that works, it not then I'll just get the new 09 sleeve.

    Just an FYI on plugging the hole. Make sure you clean the hell out of the surface of the can with rubbing alcohol before you glue it. I cleaned the inside and outside of the canister and used Q-tip to clean out the tiny hole. You can put a piece a tape on the other side of the hole (inside the cannister) to stop the glue from getting in. You don't want any glue leaking and drying up inside the can or you will have major issues.

    I glued in layers. I filled the hole at first with crazy glue while holding the tape inside with my finger. I let it dry then put another layer over that. I did this about 15 times through the night untill it the glue was built up, then I let dry over night. After that just wrap a zip tie over the glue and around the can to keep it from popping out into your leg incase it dislodges.

    You may want to give JB weld a try, but the super glue did the job for me. You need to make it thick enough and overlap around the hole so it bonds to enough surface area of the can. Any rubbery glue won't work, I tried, it needs to dry hard like crazy glue.


    Edit: I accidently gave my reply a thumbs down..oops!
    Last edited by DirtDiggler; 09-11-2009 at 02:23 PM.

  79. #479
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    Quote Originally Posted by DirtDiggler
    Just an FYI on plugging the hole. Make sure you clean the hell out of the surface of the can with rubbing alchol before you glue it. I cleaned the inside and outside of the canister and used Q-tip to clean out the tiny hole. You can put a piece a tape on the other side of the hole (inside the cannister) to stop the glue from getting in. You don't want any glue leaking and drying up inside the can or you will have major issues.

    I glued in layers. I filled the hole at first with crazy glue while holding the tape inside with my finger. I let it dry then put another layer over that. I did this about 15 times through the night untill it the glue was built up, then I let dry over night. After that just wrap a zip tie over the glue and around the can to keep it from popping out into your leg incase it dislodges.

    You may want to give JB weld a try, but the super glue did the job for me. You need to make it thick enough and overlap the hole so it bonds to enough surface area on the outside of the can. Any glue rubbery won't work, I tried, it needs to dry hard like crazy glue.

    Edit: I accidently gave my reply a thumbs down..oops!
    yeah, my first thought was to try JB weld. I'll probably take a look around ACE hardware to see if I can find anything else, but I'm guessing any epoxy type will do the trick. Good idea about the tape on the inside, and the tie wrap for any catastrophic failures, I'd hate to have a glue bullet in my calf.

  80. #480
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    Quote Originally Posted by FloridaFish
    yeah, my first thought was to try JB weld. I'll probably take a look around ACE hardware to see if I can find anything else, but I'm guessing any epoxy type will do the trick. Good idea about the tape on the inside, and the tie wrap for any catastrophic failures, I'd hate to have a glue bullet in my calf.
    2 part epoxy might work if it's mix really well prior. Sometimes if you have to much of the hardner or the glue it leaves a residue and doesn't stick very well to aluminum. I think JB might work a little better here but it's hard to say. That's why super glue works well because it bonds to practically anything. You might want to put some super glue down as the base surface and JB to fill and support it....just a thought.

  81. #481
    yeah, uh............bikes
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    Quote Originally Posted by DirtDiggler
    2 part epoxy might work if it's mix really well prior. Sometimes if you have to much of the hardner or the glue it leaves a residue and doesn't stick very well to aluminum. I think JB might work a little better here but it's hard to say. That's why super glue works well because it bonds to practically anything. You might want to put some super glue down as the base surface and JB to fill and support it....just a thought.
    true, i seem to have it stuck in my head that the air cans are plastic, everytime I take one off I'm surprised that they're metal..... again.

  82. #482
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marshall Willanholly



    Sweet rig, diggin' the great photochop on the stand though!
    "It's never just a game when you're winning."
    George Carlin (1937-2008)

  83. #483
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    ... and if we just ... my little pony

    Just waiting for next season to upgrade front and rear susp and change her over to a 7 light!

  84. #484
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    here's my 6point with a fresh paint job. if anybody know where to find pivots and/or links, please let me know.



    nothing witty here...

  85. #485
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2w4s
    here's my 6point with a fresh paint job. if anybody know where to find pivots and/or links, please let me know.



    great looking bike.

    what kind of chainguide is that?

  86. #486
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    Thanks, Fl Fish! The chainguide is an e13 DS with Truvativ Stylo bashguard. I used to run the e13 DRS but decided i wanted to go lighter. I havent hit anything with the DS yet but it seems like it's pretty flimsy, I would stick with a DRS is you hit stuff, go with the DS if you just need a roller set up to keep your chain on and already have your own BashGuard.
    nothing witty here...

  87. #487
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    For those of you with the 6points what size did you get?

    I'm a 5'10" guy with a standover height of about 30". I just had brain surgery and would like to treat myself to a 2008 6point6 with a 17" frame. Wondering if this would be too small.

  88. #488
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    I'm just over 5'-9" and got a 17" the tt was shorter than my previous bike, so it felt a little tight. After a couple of rides I thought the fit was perfect.

  89. #489
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    Groovy.

    Thanks for sharing that. I'm going to pull the trigger on the 6point6 next week.

  90. #490
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    i would recommend you get the 19".

  91. #491
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    Quote Originally Posted by rjcornelia
    i would recommend you get the 19".

    Get the 17", widen-up the handlebars and put a 50-60mm stem with a rise to your pref. I like 30"/762mm.

  92. #492
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    Quote Originally Posted by Uncle Jemima
    Get the 17", widen-up the handlebars and put a 50-60mm stem with a rise to your pref. I like 30"/762mm.
    the eff TT length is measured with a layback seatpost. if he doesn't plan on running the layback paired with a 50mm stem i would recommend the 19", it would fit him perfectly. IH sizes run small.

    it's a shame you can't test ride the bikes at your LBS since they are only sold online now. i made my decision during the test ride.

  93. #493
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    I am 5'10" and rode a Large 6point. It was a fun bike, but for being 5'10" the large felt to big to be a mini dh rig. It even felt to big to be a AM bike. TT was a tad bit long for me.

    If I could have done it all over, I would have picked up another bike. After riding the 6point for a few months it never felt "right" It rode well, was very stiff, but never felt right. I tried a gaggle of shocks and forks.

    Maybe the medium would have been better... haha
    Gamut
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    Formerly: motormonkeyr6

  94. #494
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    Quote Originally Posted by yogreg
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Acadian
    Im 510 and like to run a short stems on all my bikes (e.g. between 55 and 65 but my DH has a 45).

    My 7Point is indeed a 17, but it has a 23 Effective TT (with a 55mm stem)
    My Sunday has a 23.5 Effective TT (and thats a DH bike)
    My MkIII has a 23.25 Effective TT (with a 65mm stem)

    See the pattern? I like effective TTs that are about 23. The 19 6Point offers a 23 TT without the setback seatpost, which I wont be running. The 17 is 22 I cannot see myself do long epic rides on a bike that has a 22 TT. Maybe if I wasnt doing much climbing, but the 6Point is designed to be pedaled up the mountain.

    so in short...I "assume" the 19" is what I need. The Wheelbase is a bit longer than my MkIII but pretty much on par with my 7Point - should make for a super stable bike on those fast fun descents, which is what I will be seeking on this bike!


    Luc.
    I am also 5-10 and like to run shortish stems as well. The 17" 6 point felt on the small side to me after ripping it around the neighborhood for a few. I would also opt for the 19.
    good luck!

  95. #495
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    Quote Originally Posted by rjcornelia
    the eff TT length is measured with a layback seatpost. if he doesn't plan on running the layback paired with a 50mm stem i would recommend the 19", it would fit him perfectly. IH sizes run small.

    it's a shame you can't test ride the bikes at your LBS since they are only sold online now. i made my decision during the test ride.
    Wider the handlebar on the 17" frame is more inviting to alter the total size than making narrow on a bigger bike. 2+ inches with a bit-shorter than the 70mm stem on the bike will make a more dynamic ride than a 19inch bike. Totally dependant on to what severity the riding will be.

  96. #496
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    Quote Originally Posted by JIJO
    For those of you with the 6points what size did you get?

    I'm a 5'10" guy with a standover height of about 30". I just had brain surgery and would like to treat myself to a 2008 6point6 with a 17" frame. Wondering if this would be too small.
    i am also 5'10". i was looking for a new frame, and based off this thread and a few other posts i found, i decided to try a 6 point. i PM'ed motormonkeyr6 and told him im debating between the 19 and a 17, but leaning towards 17. he tells me noooo you are 5'10" the 17 is just wayyy too small, buy my 19 i swearrrr its perfect for you!!

    so my dumbass buys the 19" frame from him, and i put it together... sure enough the 19 is too big. i login tonite and see ^^^^the above post from him.. now, im selling a 19 (thats been crashed with a double crown fork on it) to get a 17. thanks motormonkey

  97. #497
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    17"

    i'm another 5'10"'er and I am absolutely in love with my bike. I rode a bike that was too big for me for too long so now the "smaller" bike is just tons of fun.

  98. #498
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    Heres mine finally at his new home in Arequipa PERU! Its stock except for the Azonic Fusion magnesium pedals and the Blackspie Stinger chainguide
    everytime I see it nd ride it I can only say to my self that I made the right choice. and that the bike is eager to be ridden.


  99. #499
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    New Rig

    Took it out for a ride last week going out today.
    6 Point photos-6point6-004.jpg

  100. #500
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    New Rig

    Different angles


    [ATTACH]6 Point photos-6point6-004-1.jpg[/ATTACH]
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 6 Point photos-6point6-002.jpg  


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