Page 5 of 8 FirstFirst 12345678 LastLast
Results 401 to 500 of 711
  1. #401
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    1,027
    I've had mine repaired / replaced once...so far so good. Still think it is the best post available.

  2. #402
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    13
    Quote Originally Posted by VR46 View Post
    Has anyone tried to use a different cable like Jagwire with the Thomson?
    I Changed my cable to a Jagwire- mainly because the cable was too short on a new bike. Much smoother and better fine control. Would recommend it.

  3. #403
    mtbr member
    Reputation: ironbelly's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    39

    Thomson Elite Dropper Post Thread

    Finally!!! It was delivered ti me yesterday, i mounted it on my mojo, and it seem to work perfectly, but..... In the rush of exitement i realized i forgot to put the sferic ferrule at the end of the cable into the remote lever.
    Do U think i'm having issues for that?
    if you have time left after a ride...you could have ridden more!

  4. #404
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Posts
    434
    for a while it will be ok, but that ferrule allows the cable tend to pivot. The cable will break at the lever end eventually if you don't have that there.

  5. #405
    mtbr member
    Reputation: ironbelly's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    39

    Thomson Elite Dropper Post Thread

    Thanks, I will put it right.
    if you have time left after a ride...you could have ridden more!

  6. #406
    Scott is a tool.
    Reputation: waldog's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    858
    How's everyone's reliability of their posts going?

    I just received my second post as a warranty replacement and it's broken out of the box.

    I'm finding it hard to consider going for a third repair/replacement.

    I've had the same issue with both posts, side to side play and up and down play.

    What are people's thoughts?

    I've had a LEV, and had endless problems with it, 7 posts in total. Maybe it's time to try a reverb.

    Cheers.

    Sent from my HTC_0P6B using Tapatalk

  7. #407
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    419
    Quote Originally Posted by waldog View Post
    Maybe it's time to try a reverb.
    I'm on my third Reverb in one year, this one has held up since January without issue though. Previously had a CB Joplin that was warrantied a couple times. All dropper's have issues, seems like it's just hit or miss if you get one that works for an extended length of time.

  8. #408
    mtbr member
    Reputation: bubba13's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    960
    Quote Originally Posted by waldog View Post
    How's everyone's reliability of their posts going?

    I just received my second post as a warranty replacement and it's broken out of the box.

    I'm finding it hard to consider going for a third repair/replacement.

    I've had the same issue with both posts, side to side play and up and down play.

    What are people's thoughts?

    I've had a LEV, and had endless problems with it, 7 posts in total. Maybe it's time to try a reverb.

    Cheers.

    Sent from my HTC_0P6B using Tapatalk
    Not much luck here with long term reliability for the Reverb or the Thompson. I have had the Reverb replaced three times in the past three years. The current one is a 2013 and is starting to act up due to air getting in the system. It may just need a remote rebuild and line change. My experience is the Reverb will work well for about a season before it starts to require frequent bleeding or a full rebuild.

    I also have two Thompson droppers and both have been replaced under warranty. These were early release posts with the short cables. At the moment the replacements are working great. Time will tell.

    I cannot say I love the look or action of the Gravity Dropper, but it may be the next dropper I purchase. Full up or down version only.
    Portland Off Road Navagators

  9. #409
    Pivoteer
    Reputation: tiSS'er's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    3,447
    I've had both of my V1 Thomson posts replaced under warranty. The V2 is much better and I have had no issues at all with either.
    Employed by Pivot Cycles - www.pivotcycles.com

  10. #410
    Scott is a tool.
    Reputation: waldog's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    858

    Re: Thomson Elite Dropper Post Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by tiSS'er View Post
    I've had both of my V1 Thomson posts replaced under warranty. The V2 is much better and I have had no issues at all with either.
    How can you tell which version post you have?

    Other than the short cable.

  11. #411
    Pivoteer
    Reputation: tiSS'er's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    3,447
    Quote Originally Posted by waldog View Post
    How can you tell which version post you have?

    Other than the short cable.
    The short cable and the little 2mm grub screw that secures the cable to the post. Speaking with Thomson, they made some minor changes to the design.
    Employed by Pivot Cycles - www.pivotcycles.com

  12. #412
    mtbr member
    Reputation: dump's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    288
    Quote Originally Posted by waldog View Post
    How's everyone's reliability of their posts going?
    Starting my second season on my original early v1 post. No problems here... smooth and solid as the day I bought it.

  13. #413
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Mountain Cycle Shawn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    12,658
    So the v2s are looking more reliable?

  14. #414
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    367
    For those looking for reliability and considering changing posts, I would suggest keeping the one you like the most, i.e. Which post has the features you like outside of reliability problems.


    The reason I bring this up is because none of these posts will have the reliability many of you are looking for. In fact, all of the hydraulic posts have pretty much the exact same design. I know for a fact that the Kind Shock dropper posts and Reverb do have the exact same design right down to the same diameter internal hydraulic tubes.


    Does this mean it is a poor design or these companies put out a crap product? I would say no, in my humble opinion. The failure problem that they all share are the o-rings that separate the air and oil. They eventually fail. Could be in a year, could be in a week. O-rings are cheap and don't have tight manufacturing tolerances. That's just the nature of the beast. Manufacturers could use higher quality materials of construction for the o-rings, but that would increase the price of an already high priced item. What is interesting to me is that people expect the o-rings in forks and shocks to eventually fail and need servicing, but hydraulic posts are expected (by some) to last a long time. The difference is forks and shocks "appear" to continue to work properly when their seals fail but it is painfully obvious when the seals fail in a hydraulic post. In addition, the seals in forks and shocks are constantly in a dynamic situation. They get to move all the time unless the suspension is locked out. The seals in these posts are asked to be both static and dynamic constantly. That is an extreme amount of stress placed on a very small part.

    So, what to do?

    You have 2 options. You can continually send in your post for warranty work. This is not a bad plan. Usually you don't get a rebuild in this situation and end up with a brand new post. That's very nice as every single part on your post is now brand new. The problem with this is that you have a significant amount of downtime without your post (unless you have a backup).

    The other option is to fix it yourself (my preferred option). Every company with exception to SRAM doesn't want you to crack open your post since they don't think you could possibly understand the complexities of their 'black magic' hydraulic cartridge (ahem, the same exact cartridge that they all use). That's BS. It is actually quite simple, you just need to take the time to figure it out. These companies think the general population is stupid, but I do not. I think the general population (especially of mountain bikers) is smart and can do their own maintenance if given the chance. Thankfully, SRAM released instructions on how to rebuild their cartridges and that method is easily applied to Kind Shock seat posts (at least). Again, my guess is that Thomson uses the same hydraulic cartridge.

    O-rings are CHEAP. Have a problem with your seat post sagging? Your o-rings have gone bad and the air is getting past them and mixing in the oil. This is a 100% guarantee. I've seen it too many times on many Reverbs and Kind Shock posts. Does this mean they are junk? No. The actual parts of the post that are manufactured by SRAM, KS and Thomson are actually quite nice. Those parts last a very long time. The o-rings do not. Open up your posts, take measurements and figure out what size o-rings you need. Buy the o-rings and replace them. Bleed your post with Rockshox 2.5wt oil or some other shock oil in the 2.5wt to 5wt range. Need help understanding how to do this? Go to the Reverb thread in the All Mountain section or the DIY Kind Shock LEV thread. Both threads are filled with a wealth of shared knowledge on how to service your post.

    If you don't want to service your post and you are tired of sending it in for warranty, there are two more options, but I don't find them to be as attractive. First, you can start using a mechanical dropper. I personally will never go this route. Mechanical droppers aren't completely immune to failure, and secondly, they have set points where they can be dropped. I can't stand that. If you don't click into a set point on a mechanical dropper, the post is coming right back up. Massive pain in the ass (and other areas). I'll stick to hydraulic posts. The other option is to lose the dropper post completely. Problem solved. The only issue I personally have with that is I am now addicted (and have been for 3 years now) to dropper posts. I don't want to go back to how it was before. It is too much fun to have one on the trail. So I personally will deal with constant failures and rebuilds to continue to use a dropper on my rides as I find my rides to be a lot more fun with a dropper post.

    Lastly, if you are having problems with fore/aft play due to the collar loosening, just tighten it back up. Get a strap wrench and torque that thing down. If that doesn't fix it, the internal bushings have worn down and need to be replaced. Again, they all have the same design. There will be brass bushings inside that key into the telescoping post. They are a wear item and eventually need to be replaced. The other thing you can do is live with the fore/aft play. It personally doesn't bother me, but that doesn't mean it doesn't bother you. I get that. Just understand that every single one of these posts will develop fore/aft play over time.

  15. #415
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    4,751
    Quote Originally Posted by Laterilus View Post
    too long.
    Have you ever seen the inside of a Reverb? It looks nothing like a Thomson. The Thomson has a self contained cartridge whereas the Reverb and Lev are not, there is no "cartridge".

  16. #416
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    367

    Thomson Elite Dropper Post Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by the-one1 View Post
    Have you ever seen the inside of a Reverb? It looks nothing like a Thomson. The Thomson has a self contained cartridge whereas the Reverb and Lev are not, there is no "cartridge".
    Yes, I've rebuilt many Reverbs. I've broken them down to each individual part.

    KS also says that they use a 'self contained' cartridge, but it isn't. It can be taken apart. I also assumed the same could be done to a Thomson. Please show me a picture of a Thomson cartridge. I could be wrong that it can't be broken down, but I suspect that it can.

  17. #417
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    367
    I stand corrected, the-one1.

    You are correct, Thomson indeed uses a self-contained cartridge that they outsourced. Interesting. I did not know that.

    Still, how self-contained is it? I don't see any sort of manufacturing techniques (on the pictures I've seen) that would lead me to believe that it can't be opened. Looks like the design is slightly modified from SRAM and KS where they separate the air and the oil chambers on either side of the piston shaft. Either way, that piston shaft will be going into and out of the the oil chamber while pushing an IFP up and down. In that regard, the design still remains the same.

    Yes, the air chamber is filled with nitrogen. Doesn't matter. That can be changed to air and there won't be a loss of performance. The pressure would just need to be checked from time to time. The end cap to the nitrogen chamber looks like it can be unscrewed using a pin spanner while the chamber is held in a vise (using soft jaws). The tricky part would be to figure out how to re-charge it with air.

    As for the oil chamber, Motul oil can be found anywhere. Save the oil that comes out of the cartridge, run it through a viscosity cup, then figure out which Motul oil they are using. As for the o-rings, you simply measure them and buy new ones for cheap.

    Someone with a Thomson will eventually have their warranty run out. Instead of throwing it away, pop it open and start figuring out how this thing works.

  18. #418
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    4,751
    The thing I don't get about the Thomson post is why don't they just send the end user the cartridge if the post is having issues going up/down. Looks easier to swap it out than all the other posts,

  19. #419
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    367
    Quote Originally Posted by the-one1 View Post
    The thing I don't get about the Thomson post is why don't they just send the end user the cartridge if the post is having issues going up/down. Looks easier to swap it out than all the other posts,
    They already do not trust the end user to do any maintenance on the post, so I doubt they would trust the end user to replace the cartridge. The pictures I've seen have the piston shaft completely exposed with the cartridge removed from the post. It would be very bad if that shaft got scratched. Thomson is taking the all or nothing route (which I can understand from their standpoint). Either let the user service the post, or don't let them touch it at all.

  20. #420
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    31
    Quote Originally Posted by tiSS'er View Post
    I've had both of my V1 Thomson posts replaced under warranty. The V2 is much better and I have had no issues at all with either.
    How can you tell which version post you have?

    Other than the short cable.

  21. #421
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    419
    Quote Originally Posted by tiSS'er View Post
    The short cable and the little 2mm grub screw that secures the cable to the post. Speaking with Thomson, they made some minor changes to the design.
    This is the difference between V1 and V2. I haven't built up my new bike yet, I'll have to pull the dropper out of the box and see what I've got.

  22. #422
    Pivoteer
    Reputation: tiSS'er's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    3,447
    Quote Originally Posted by mayonays View Post
    This is the difference between V1 and V2. I haven't built up my new bike yet, I'll have to pull the dropper out of the box and see what I've got.
    Thanks. I understand they are also going to put a grub screw on the collar to prevent it from loosening up. Not sure if this is out there yet though.
    Employed by Pivot Cycles - www.pivotcycles.com

  23. #423
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Mountain Cycle Shawn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    12,658
    Bump for more info.

  24. #424
    Scott is a tool.
    Reputation: waldog's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    858
    Hey

    Quick question, are any of you noticing any up and down movement when the post is fully extended?

    I'm talking 1-2mm, with a hard stop, not spongy. If that makes sense.

    Cheers.

  25. #425
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    93
    Quote Originally Posted by waldog View Post
    Hey

    Quick question, are any of you noticing any up and down movement when the post is fully extended?

    I'm talking 1-2mm, with a hard stop, not spongy. If that makes sense.

    Cheers.
    I just got this post a few days ago. I went with it because out of all of them, this seems to be the best out of the bunch. I did noticed the small 1mm movement that you're describing but since I only feel it when I lift my bike up and the thing is rock solid when riding, I'd be happy if this is the only issue I have with it.

    Loving this post, my first dropper. How did I ride for so long without one?
    Santa Cruz Tallboy LTc

  26. #426
    Scott is a tool.
    Reputation: waldog's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    858

    Re: Thomson Elite Dropper Post Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by max_croft View Post
    I just got this post a few days ago. I went with it because out of all of them, this seems to be the best out of the bunch. I did noticed the small 1mm movement that you're describing but since I only feel it when I lift my bike up and the thing is rock solid when riding, I'd be happy if this is the only issue I have with it.

    Loving this post, my first dropper. How did I ride for so long without one?
    Thanks Max.

    Anyone else noticing this movement? Can you feel it when you're on the bike?

  27. #427
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Luke555's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    12
    Quote Originally Posted by waldog View Post
    Thanks Max.

    Anyone else noticing this movement? Can you feel it when you're on the bike?
    Yes! Damnit.

    Got mine in December. A month ago, I thought it was my DU bushing or something in the shock. Few days ago realised it was the dropper. About 2mm of VERY noticeable play when I'm on flat dirt, say, and I hit a bump too small to activate the suspension. Thunk. I also have the side-to-side movement. So boo.

    Have sent mine back. Living in Australia may make this hard. Very discouraging to see other people with the same problem. Also kind of discouraging to email David Parrett and be told 1-2mm of play ANYWHERE in the post is to be expected...

  28. #428
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    1,027
    I had that on my previous post. I just raised it about 1mm in the frame and it was fine. Never got worse; and I never noticed it while riding. Still very happy with it.

  29. #429
    mtbr member
    Reputation: bubba13's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    960
    Off to warranty again. Own two Thompson droppers that were recently warrantied. Rode this one for a month and it started making a popping sound when it bottomed out after lowering. Now return is very slow. Dropper posts should be called aggravation sticks!
    Portland Off Road Navagators

  30. #430
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Trail_Blazer's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    2,162
    I have a post with some play but on the trail i can't feel it so I don't care.

  31. #431
    I have Flat Pedal shame.
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    529
    Mine had some small vertical play, but sent it in and had a new one in two weeks. Thomson also send an additional cable with it, which is friggin awesome. Still very happy with my investment, especially with the level of customer service they provide.
    We don't ride to add days to our life, we ride to add life to the days we have left here.

  32. #432
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    215
    I just got off phone with Thomson. 1 to 2 mm vertical play is normal for post to work. If it is side to side or forward and back. The black ring at bottom may not have received loctite . so you can either send it in or unscrew it clean threads and apply loctite. I have only the small vertical play when I sit down moves 1 to 2 mm to a stop. They are extremely helpful, all you have to do is call
    17' Riot
    12' Horsethief
    96' Killer v

  33. #433
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mfa81's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    824
    Quote Originally Posted by sdm74 View Post
    I just got off phone with Thomson. 1 to 2 mm vertical play is normal for post to work. If it is side to side or forward and back. The black ring at bottom may not have received loctite . so you can either send it in or unscrew it clean threads and apply loctite. I have only the small vertical play when I sit down moves 1 to 2 mm to a stop. They are extremely helpful, all you have to do is call
    do you notice the small vertical play when riding or just when you sit down, is that something noticiable as you unweight the saddle a bit?

  34. #434
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    215
    Quote Originally Posted by mfa81 View Post
    do you notice the small vertical play when riding or just when you sit down, is that something noticiable as you unweight the saddle a bit?
    No, only when sitting. Very slight, at first I thought it was just saddle giving a little.
    17' Riot
    12' Horsethief
    96' Killer v

  35. #435
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    550
    Hi, guys, has anyone have this happen. The seal at the collar has come out and cannot put it back, is there a trick to getting it back in. I contacted Thomson and they ask me to send it in . I am not the original owner and I assume that means no warranty for me. i would like to try to fix this myself, before I send it in and pay to have it fixed. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Jesse.

  36. #436
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Posts
    93
    Just got my post replaced. Can someone post some pics that will help me to find if I got V2?

  37. #437
    Five5hot
    Reputation: RyeBokeh's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    236
    I'm looking to replace the inner wire and housing for my dropper. After researching I found that the Thomson dropper uses a 5mm brake housing and a 1.1/1.2mm inner shift cable.

    Should I be looking at a brake or derailleur housing?

    Anyone that replaced their cable confirm any of this? Thanks.

  38. #438
    mtbr member
    Reputation: OldHouseMan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    3,646
    Quote Originally Posted by RyeBokeh View Post
    I'm looking to replace the inner wire and housing for my dropper. After researching I found that the Thomson dropper uses a 5mm brake housing and a 1.1/1.2mm inner shift cable.

    Should I be looking at a brake or derailleur housing?

    Anyone that replaced their cable confirm any of this? Thanks.
    I had to replace my cable and asked Thomson. This is the response I received from David Parrett...

    "5mm brake housing and a shifter cable will do it."
    I only ride bikes to fill the time when I'm not skiing.

  39. #439
    mtbr member
    Reputation: rscecil007's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    2,592
    Shimano SP41 housing and shifter cable works well also.
    If jackasses could fly this place would be an airport.

  40. #440
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    1,125
    Quote Originally Posted by RyeBokeh View Post
    Should I be looking at a brake or derailleur housing?

    Anyone that replaced their cable confirm any of this? Thanks.
    I used derailleur housing and derailleur cable on my original post that shipped with the too-short housing. It has worked fine for the past year.

    Ultimately, I think either brake or derailleur housing will work fine, but brake housing is often more pliable, so may do better with the "curve" from top tube to seat post head.

  41. #441
    Five5hot
    Reputation: RyeBokeh's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    236
    Quote Originally Posted by OldHouseMan View Post
    I had to replace my cable and asked Thomson. This is the response I received from David Parrett...

    "5mm brake housing and a shifter cable will do it."
    Quote Originally Posted by rscecil007 View Post
    Shimano SP41 housing and shifter cable works well also.
    Quote Originally Posted by InertiaMan View Post
    I used derailleur housing and derailleur cable on my original post that shipped with the too-short housing. It has worked fine for the past year.

    Ultimately, I think either brake or derailleur housing will work fine, but brake housing is often more pliable, so may do better with the "curve" from top tube to seat post head.
    Thanks for the reply fellas. Good to hear either housing will work, along with the shifter cable.

    I think I'll give the brake housing a go since it's more flexible during the seastposts up and down travel.

  42. #442
    Oaktown Honkey on Strava
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    2,474
    I have about 10 rides on mine now, awesome! I like the KS LEV on other bike too, but I do like the Thomson a bit better. Less left/right play than LEV. Both posts are relatively new and play is minimal on LEV. We'll see which holds up best.

  43. #443
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Hill-Pumper's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    231
    Quote Originally Posted by hoolie View Post
    I have about 10 rides on mine now, awesome! I like the KS LEV on other bike too, but I do like the Thomson a bit better. Less left/right play than LEV. Both posts are relatively new and play is minimal on LEV. We'll see which holds up best.
    I have 3 rides on mine so far, really liking it too. My Reverb was just becoming a real PITA, so I made the switch. I am hoping the Thompson holds up as well.

  44. #444
    how heavy are you ??
    Reputation: Scottay5150's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    1,014
    Would the Thomson handle bar lever work with the standard Gravity Dropper post. Say yes, with some monkey rigging!? Please
    Last edited by Scottay5150; 07-28-2014 at 08:51 PM.
    What does Marsellus Wallace look like, A BIT*H?

  45. #445
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    1,125
    For those folks who have applied their own Loctite and tightened up the collar, what type of Loctite did you use?

    My collar loosened, so I sent it in for "service" and received the same post back two weeks later. After four rides, the collar is loose again, and after aggressive hand-tightening, it still loosens after a couple hours of riding. My "serviced" post was also very sensitive to seat collar torque. If I torque it to spec, the post gets stuck after dropping. There is a fine line of sufficient torque such that the post doesn't slip/twist, and low enough torque to not cause binding in the dropper.

    Is it just me, or is David getting a bit surly in his email correspondence?

  46. #446
    Five5hot
    Reputation: RyeBokeh's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    236
    Quote Originally Posted by Scottay5150 View Post
    Would the Thomson handle bar lever work with the standard Gravity Dropper post. Say yes, with some monkey rigging!? Please
    I'd say it would work with a bit of modifications. The Thomson lever uses the shimano/sram derailleur cable head at the lever. As opposed to the opposite with the Gravity Dropper.

  47. #447
    Five5hot
    Reputation: RyeBokeh's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    236
    Quote Originally Posted by InertiaMan View Post
    For those folks who have applied their own Loctite and tightened up the collar, what type of Loctite did you use?

    My collar loosened, so I sent it in for "service" and received the same post back two weeks later. After four rides, the collar is loose again, and after aggressive hand-tightening, it still loosens after a couple hours of riding. My "serviced" post was also very sensitive to seat collar torque. If I torque it to spec, the post gets stuck after dropping. There is a fine line of sufficient torque such that the post doesn't slip/twist, and low enough torque to not cause binding in the dropper.

    Is it just me, or is David getting a bit surly in his email correspondence?
    I would get in touch with them again upon the on going issue and inform them that you're not satisfied with the "service" of the seatpost and ask for a replacement. I was part of the first batch of seatposts and it sounds like you're part of that crowd as well. First batch were a bit finicky upon loosened collars and seatpost play. From what I read in the forums people were receiving replacements.

    I sent mine in with a 2cm up and down play. David replied to my email within a day and said to send it in. I called several days later for a status update and informed me they're sending me a replacement. Total turnaround time was 1 week (California to Georgia and back). David was pretty short with his answers in his emails but did not get a surly vibe.

  48. #448
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    56
    Hi guys,
    I have had my Thomsen dropper since early winter. I have followed this thread since my purchase. Yesterday, my post was very slow to return. In fact the post would not return without me pulling on it. Interestingly, I have been told that my post needs service. Really? After 7 months? What is this service? Has anybody else had their post "serviced"? I suppose my question will be answered soon enough when I hear back from Thomsen. However I thought perhaps someone here might know the answer.

  49. #449
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Mountain Cycle Shawn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    12,658
    If all it needs is service after 7 months, I think you've been pretty lucky. Mountain bikes are like women, high maintenance.

  50. #450
    Five5hot
    Reputation: RyeBokeh's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    236
    Quote Originally Posted by potterymouth View Post
    Hi guys,
    I have had my Thomsen dropper since early winter. I have followed this thread since my purchase. Yesterday, my post was very slow to return. In fact the post would not return without me pulling on it. Interestingly, I have been told that my post needs service. Really? After 7 months? What is this service? Has anybody else had their post "serviced"? I suppose my question will be answered soon enough when I hear back from Thomsen. However I thought perhaps someone here might know the answer.
    The seatpost doesn't need service, it's defective. The posts internals are not serviceable so they backed it with a two year warranty.

    I had mine the same time as you (December) and like many others, had to send it in for replacement. I'm not sure if it's in my head but my replacement feels more positive and solid going through it's travel.

    As I stated in an earlier post there was an apparent QC issue with the first run of droppers but their second run and beyond has seemed to resolve any problems.

  51. #451
    dpo
    dpo is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    137
    I have had mine for about a year (aug). Have not had a single issue. I say this while crossing my fingers and knocking on wood.

  52. #452
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    56
    Well, I got a reply from Thomson to send it in. It will be in the mail tomorrow.

  53. #453
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    129
    Quote Originally Posted by Scottay5150 View Post
    Would the Thomson handle bar lever work with the standard Gravity Dropper post. Say yes, with some monkey rigging!? Please
    Check out the Thomson Covert switch.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HWGKxL3pjwg
    2011 Dawes Deadeye | 2011 Niner EMD9 | 2014 Santa Cruz Tallboy AL| 2016 Raleigh Merit 3| 2017 Salsa Timberjack 27.5+ GX

  54. #454
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    53
    Does anyone know if the "throw" is sufficient enough with a Thomson Covert switch to activate a Gravity Dropper?
    14 Canfield Brothers - Jedi
    09 Canfield Brothers - The One
    08 Cannondale Scalpel - SoBe Team Carbon frame

  55. #455
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    548

    long term reliability?

    I have been watching this thread for some time. I've always been a fan of Thomson products for the high quality machined parts that seem to stand up well. That said, I current own an old GD and a LEV post. I picked up the LEV as I liked the collar cable attachment point versus the dynamic cable loop of the Thomson and others. It does now have play and the seat clamp creaks and gets loose often.

    It does seem to me that all these posts are buggy and bound to develop issues, more so than modern forks and shocks. My industrial designer friend believes the issue is they are all relying on a little hydraulic cartridge to support all our weight, and that the cartridge is confined by current seat post diameter 'standards'. Add the up and down motion and the side to side stresses and it eventually adds up to wear on bushings and failed suspension cartridges. Seems to make some sense.

    I imagine that a bigger post the diameter of a Cannondale Lefty might have a better chance of survival, but that would mean all frames would need to adopt a bigger seat post standard. If they have to stay to 30.9/31.6 round tubes then we will continue to see failures. Heck, we moved from puny 30mm fork stanchions up to 34-40mm fork stanchions and there are two of those to support 120+ mm of travel!

    We'll see what the long term reliability is in the end. It seems everyone has to send these posts in at least once for a warranty replacement. I imagine David at Thomson is getting a little tired of the real world beatings these are taking, versus the stress testing in the lab scenario. You start to understand why the price is so high if they have to plan in for a high level of warranty returns.

    Just my 2 cents. Still a fan of what the dropper brings to the table, but I always bring my Thomson rigid post in my bag as a backup on road trips.

  56. #456
    Five5hot
    Reputation: RyeBokeh's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    236
    might have to revisit the piggyback dropper post if that's the case.
    Thomson Elite Dropper Post Thread-se258g02.jpg

  57. #457
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Trail_Blazer's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    2,162
    I have had 4 dropper posts each of different mfg and models and have had not needed to send in any for warranty.
    Some work smoother than others but none of mine have failed in the last 2 years

  58. #458
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Posts
    434
    I have had a Thomson dropper since May (bought new), and it just stopped returning to top position this week. It's clean and lubed. I have to release the lever and pull it up manually. I have about 350 XC miles on it.

  59. #459
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    550
    I have had to send my post in for work, but I have to say it was excellent customer service that I received, David Parrett was the contact person. It was the easiest I have ever dealt with a company. I also had concerns about so many having to send their post in, but that was alieviated with the fast repair and quick turnaround and no hassle service. I have no worries now that my post will be around for a long time. As far as the post. It is by far the best purchase that I have made, nice and smooth action, solid post for the seat with no wiggle, and I like the fact that it's mechanical and can use standard a derailleur cable. I would not hesitate to recommend it. It's not cheap, but the quality and service make it worth it. Just my opinions, take it for what its worth.

  60. #460
    mtbr member
    Reputation: rscecil007's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    2,592
    My collar on my Covert came loose over the weekend. I unscrewed it, cleaned the threads and liberally re-applied loctite, and tightened it back down using a rubber plumbing strap wrench. I don't have a think 30mm to fit the collar, so David told me the plumbing wrench would work.

    Anyone used of of these strap wrenches to tighten down the collar before? I guess it's tight, but hard to say. I know at this point it's as tight as I can get it without a proper 30mm wrench, as the rubber strap wrench just spins now when I try to tighten it.
    If jackasses could fly this place would be an airport.

  61. #461
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Posts
    293
    So I really want to add a dropper and can't get the Thomson out of my head. But can get a KS Lev for $100 less. (for 27.2 post)

    Are there still issues with play on the newer batches of Thomsons? That's one of the biggest selling points for me, and the additional 25mm travel. (of course looks too!)

    Thanks!
    Pedal through it!

  62. #462
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    3
    Air NZ has the following notice on its site:
    "Mountain bikes may be fitted with struts containing compressed nitrogen gas. These bikes can only be accepted as checked baggage if the gas pressure does not exceed 200KPa (Kilopascal), or 29 PSI (Pounds per square inch)."

    Does anyone know if this is an issue for the Thomson elite dropper?

  63. #463
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Posts
    18
    Quote Originally Posted by rayninaces View Post
    Air NZ has the following notice on its site:
    "Mountain bikes may be fitted with struts containing compressed nitrogen gas. These bikes can only be accepted as checked baggage if the gas pressure does not exceed 200KPa (Kilopascal), or 29 PSI (Pounds per square inch)."

    Does anyone know if this is an issue for the Thomson elite dropper?
    I purchased a new bike in April with the Thomson elite dropper. The post failed in mid july with not much riding. It stopped returning to the fully extended position. Actually had to pull it up. Sent it back and got a new one. The new one was on for 3 rides and same thing started happening. It is now with the LBS to send back. Frustrating(total first world problem). When it was working it was awesome. Smooth and great to have infinite travel options too.

    thinking I should just ask Thomson for $$$ so I can go buy a LEV or some other post.

  64. #464
    mtbr member
    Reputation: xlash's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    268
    I really want one of these. KS posts seem to be worse when it comes to reliability. Just a general perception based on feedback, articles etc.
    '11 Epic Comp, Shimano SPD M780, Giant Contact Switch-R, Specialized Ribcage, Bontrager Trip 200, Ergon GS1

  65. #465
    mtbr member
    Reputation: xlash's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    268
    Guys - I sometimes use a rear car/SUV rack to transport my bike. Given that it has an odd shaped top tube, I use an adaptor. My questions are:

    1. Is it ok to use the adaptor with the dropper?
    2. Should I leave the dropper extended all the way or compressed?
    3. Where should the adaptor connect to the post? Somewhere below or above the collar?
    '11 Epic Comp, Shimano SPD M780, Giant Contact Switch-R, Specialized Ribcage, Bontrager Trip 200, Ergon GS1

  66. #466
    Who are the brain police?
    Reputation: Locoman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    10,103
    Quote Originally Posted by xlash View Post
    Guys - I sometimes use a rear car/SUV rack to transport my bike. Given that it has an odd shaped top tube, I use an adaptor. My questions are:

    1. Is it ok to use the adaptor with the dropper?
    2. Should I leave the dropper extended all the way or compressed?
    3. Where should the adaptor connect to the post? Somewhere below or above the collar?
    The guys at my shop had no issue with me using an adapter. They said to extend it all the way when transporting or not using. I connect it high, right below the seat.


    .
    The Who - Glittering Girl
    Ween - The Grobe
    Yellowman - Strong Me Strong
    all your base are belong to us

  67. #467
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    56
    Just got my seat post back from warranty. Its not my old post. Does anybody know if it's a new post or a refurbished post? I suppose that it does not matter much either way but I wonder how long this one will last? I really like the post but hope to get more that I get more that 9 months out of it.

  68. #468
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    98
    I made the mistake of taking peoples word on forums that droppers were the way to go. Installed the Thomson myself and found it pretty easy. Works great with no issues so far. Only complaint is I have no use for it. Can slide my but behind my saddle without lowering and never had an issue with cornering with the saddle in my way. Always kept my saddle 1" below optimal climbing height though but thats how I trained. Climbing with the saddle higher doesn't really increase my speed much at all.

    Anyways good product so far. Kind of gimmicky to me and just another expensive part to maintain that adds weight to my bike. I may end up selling and putting the money towards my dream bike right now... A 2015 cannondale 27.5 carbon jekyll.

  69. #469
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    419
    I've been using this post for a few months without any major issues, but I did have to tighten the collar a time or two by hand. The other day I noticed the rubber o-ring under the collar was starting to crack, anyone else have this issue? Thomson Elite Dropper Post Thread-dropper.jpg
    I've got the remote dropper version, picture was used to show what o-ring I was talking about.

  70. #470
    mtbr member
    Reputation: rscecil007's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    2,592
    Yes, one of my older ones is doing that. You can probably just ping David and get the o-ring size and replace it.
    If jackasses could fly this place would be an airport.

  71. #471
    Ow!
    Reputation: clydecrash's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    776
    Quote Originally Posted by Ramborage View Post
    I made the mistake of taking peoples word on forums that droppers were the way to go. Installed the Thomson myself and found it pretty easy. Works great with no issues so far. Only complaint is I have no use for it. Can slide my but behind my saddle without lowering and never had an issue with cornering with the saddle in my way. Always kept my saddle 1" below optimal climbing height though but thats how I trained. Climbing with the saddle higher doesn't really increase my speed much at all.

    Anyways good product so far. Kind of gimmicky to me and just another expensive part to maintain that adds weight to my bike. I may end up selling and putting the money towards my dream bike right now... A 2015 cannondale 27.5 carbon jekyll.
    I understand what your are saying. If your local trails are not steep or just short steeps, like mine, then no need. I recently took off my dropper and installed a straight post (put the dropper on my bigger bike that I am more likely to do steeper and more extended downs). I am finding little difference going from dropper to straight, BUT, on those few sections that I actually used the dropper, I miss it.

    Not certain I will install the dropper again, but I might. On the right trails, droppers are very useful. I even use one on my DH bike for lift service--entended for the flatter sections to get to the steeps, then drop for the steeps. Works very nice.

  72. #472
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Mountain Cycle Shawn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    12,658
    Quote Originally Posted by Ramborage View Post
    I made the mistake of taking peoples word on forums that droppers were the way to go. Installed the Thomson myself and found it pretty easy. Works great with no issues so far. Only complaint is I have no use for it. Can slide my but behind my saddle without lowering and never had an issue with cornering with the saddle in my way. Always kept my saddle 1" below optimal climbing height though but thats how I trained. Climbing with the saddle higher doesn't really increase my speed much at all.

    Anyways good product so far. Kind of gimmicky to me and just another expensive part to maintain that adds weight to my bike. I may end up selling and putting the money towards my dream bike right now... A 2015 cannondale 27.5 carbon jekyll.
    Umm, you actually have to drop a dropper to take advantage of the benefits of a dropper.

  73. #473
    mtbr member
    Reputation: xlash's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    268
    Quote Originally Posted by Ramborage View Post
    I made the mistake of taking peoples word on forums that droppers were the way to go. Installed the Thomson myself and found it pretty easy. Works great with no issues so far. Only complaint is I have no use for it. Can slide my but behind my saddle without lowering and never had an issue with cornering with the saddle in my way. Always kept my saddle 1" below optimal climbing height though but thats how I trained. Climbing with the saddle higher doesn't really increase my speed much at all.

    Anyways good product so far. Kind of gimmicky to me and just another expensive part to maintain that adds weight to my bike. I may end up selling and putting the money towards my dream bike right now... A 2015 cannondale 27.5 carbon jekyll.
    You're not using the dropper post.

    1. "Can slide my but behind my saddle without lowering" - then your saddle is not high enough which means you aren't getting max power out of your legs.
    2. "Climbing with the saddle higher doesn't really increase my speed much at all." This is because you don't climb steep enough hills or you aren't trying hard enough.
    3. "never had an issue with cornering with the saddle in my way" - you aren't going into corners fast enough.
    '11 Epic Comp, Shimano SPD M780, Giant Contact Switch-R, Specialized Ribcage, Bontrager Trip 200, Ergon GS1

  74. #474
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    26
    Quote Originally Posted by xlash View Post
    You're not using the dropper post.

    1. "Can slide my but behind my saddle without lowering" - then your saddle is not high enough which means you aren't getting max power out of your legs.
    2. "Climbing with the saddle higher doesn't really increase my speed much at all." This is because you don't climb steep enough hills or you aren't trying hard enough.
    3. "never had an issue with cornering with the saddle in my way" - you aren't going into corners fast enough.
    ^


    I've been running my dropper for a little over a month, just had an issue where it creeps up super slow in the last 30-40mm of travel. Emailed Thomson, got a reply in less than 10 minutes, these guys are amazing. mailing the post to them today, That is the main reason why I chose Thomson for my first dropper. Warranty and customer service. I'll ride my fixed post for a while no problem, but after riding with the dropper I have no idea how to go back to a standard seat post!

  75. #475
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    340
    Ive had mine for about 6months and no problems at all , ive left it partially dropped when travelling and when ive forgotten to raise after travelling and its been faultless...One thing id like is a revised fatter button....I cant locate the button in a place that feels natural to reach.........yet

  76. #476
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    26
    Quote Originally Posted by Andrewfuzzy View Post
    Ive had mine for about 6months and no problems at all , ive left it partially dropped when travelling and when ive forgotten to raise after travelling and its been faultless...One thing id like is a revised fatter button....I cant locate the button in a place that feels natural to reach.........yet
    I'd like to get my hands on that new remote too, hopefully they have it available to purchase.

  77. #477
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    98
    Quote Originally Posted by xlash View Post
    You're not using the dropper post.

    1. "Can slide my but behind my saddle without lowering" - then your saddle is not high enough which means you aren't getting max power out of your legs.
    2. "Climbing with the saddle higher doesn't really increase my speed much at all." This is because you don't climb steep enough hills or you aren't trying hard enough.
    3. "never had an issue with cornering with the saddle in my way" - you aren't going into corners fast enough.
    Pretty much all this is true. Problem is I have no problems descending without it. I make all my climbs, and yes cornering is my weakness. Dropped or not I still need to develop this technique. I watch guys carve corners like pros without droppers so a dropper is not needed for it.

  78. #478
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    1,125
    Of course nobody NEEDS a dropper post. But that's not the point. For me the relevant question is: do I have more fun with a dropper post? And for me, the answer is a definite YES.

    I have no problem getting my butt behind the seat without a dropper, even when the seat is at optimal height for pedaling efficiency. But the point of a dropper isn't just getting behind the seat. The beauty of dropping your seat 5 inches is that it opens up all kinds of space to move your body around. You can move front-to-back as necessary, all while keeping your center of gravity low, and not have to go up and over a seat. You can move side to side when slaloming through consecutive corners. And you've got all kinds of extra space vertically to absorb hits and landings.

    All those benefits at the push of a button. I love it. Droppers have increased my fun-to-effort ratio on almost all my rides, so I'm a fan.

  79. #479
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jboyd122's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    280

    Thomson Elite Dropper Post Thread

    ^ +1

  80. #480
    mtbr member
    Reputation: xlash's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    268
    Quote Originally Posted by Ramborage View Post
    Pretty much all this is true. Problem is I have no problems descending without it. I make all my climbs, and yes cornering is my weakness. Dropped or not I still need to develop this technique. I watch guys carve corners like pros without droppers so a dropper is not needed for it.
    Physically it would be impossible for a given rider to do better or the same without a dropper post than with. If you have no problem descending without it then you need to find a descend you can't without it (you don't have to but I'm just saying).
    '11 Epic Comp, Shimano SPD M780, Giant Contact Switch-R, Specialized Ribcage, Bontrager Trip 200, Ergon GS1

  81. #481
    mtbr member
    Reputation: xlash's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    268
    Quote Originally Posted by jboyd122 View Post
    ^ +1
    +2. Will never never ride without a dropper.
    '11 Epic Comp, Shimano SPD M780, Giant Contact Switch-R, Specialized Ribcage, Bontrager Trip 200, Ergon GS1

  82. #482
    mtbr member
    Reputation: ChevyM14's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    141
    +3, you don't need front and rear suspension or more then one gear ether, but I have more fun (and go faster) with all of the above. I only use my dropper 2 to 4 time a ride but it make some stuff go from a 8 to a 5 and the scary scale for me. also I can bunny hop about a foot more with the dropper!
    2012 FatBack with BFL tires
    2010 Specialized StumpJumper FSR Expert
    2006 Specialized RockHopper

  83. #483
    mtbr member
    Reputation: OldHouseMan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    3,646
    Has anybody tried the Thomson 27.2? I have the 30.9 and have had no trouble what so ever. From what I understand the 27.2 is slightly different.
    I only ride bikes to fill the time when I'm not skiing.

  84. #484
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Posts
    92
    Quote Originally Posted by OldHouseMan View Post
    Has anybody tried the Thomson 27.2? I have the 30.9 and have had no trouble what so ever. From what I understand the 27.2 is slightly different.
    I rode my 27.2 for the first time today, I've never used the other sizes so I can't compare.

    It is an expensive luxury but I'm loving it thus far. Needs to get properly broken in. The crappy plastic cable guide broke.

    Unfortunately, I need to re-route the cables. I'm out of town sans any cable tools, so had the shop install it. They did an ugly routing along the top tube even though I have space on the down tube since I have no front derailleur.

    My question is, will normal shift cables work for replacement or do I have to get a replacement from Thomson? The cable itself is a heavier coiled type of cable. Maybe that question doesn't make sense, I'll call thomson tomorrow.

  85. #485
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    340
    Quote Originally Posted by shapethings View Post
    I rode my 27.2 for the first time today, I've never used the other sizes so I can't compare.

    It is an expensive luxury but I'm loving it thus far. Needs to get properly broken in. The crappy plastic cable guide broke.

    Unfortunately, I need to re-route the cables. I'm out of town sans any cable tools, so had the shop install it. They did an ugly routing along the top tube even though I have space on the down tube since I have no front derailleur.

    My question is, will normal shift cables work for replacement or do I have to get a replacement from Thomson? The cable itself is a heavier coiled type of cable. Maybe that question doesn't make sense, I'll call thomson tomorrow.
    I used a normal shift cable and housing as I needed a longer cable on my Niner and wanted to piggyback the rear brake cable to route and its caused no problems whatsoever

  86. #486
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    340
    Does anyone know if they are working on one?

    I had thought about swapping to the underseat lever but they stopped making it September 2014.

  87. #487
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    1,125
    Quote Originally Posted by shapethings View Post
    Unfortunately, I need to re-route the cables. I'm out of town sans any cable tools, so had the shop install it. They did an ugly routing along the top tube even though I have space on the down tube since I have no front derailleur.
    If they did a poor routing job, that's a possible cause to your broken cable guide. In my experience, the cable guide is very durable. When routing, you need to be attentive to the housing position in both the up and dropped positions. It shouldn't restrain the extension of the post going up, but when down it shouldn't move into any problem places (rear tire, drivetrain if downtube routing, etc).

    Quote Originally Posted by shapethings View Post
    My question is, will normal shift cables work for replacement or do I have to get a replacement from Thomson? The cable itself is a heavier coiled type of cable. Maybe that question doesn't make sense, I'll call thomson tomorrow.
    This question has been asked earlier in the thread. Any derailleur cable/housing will work fine. But the Thomson one is intentionally more pliable/flexible to aid in routing, so is slightly more optimal.

  88. #488
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Posts
    92
    thanks, I am guilty of not reading the entire thread when looking into the cable replacement. I ordered a replacement guide and will get it sorted when I return home.

    Thomson told me:
    "You can use Brake Housing and a Shifter cable which you can purchase locally."

  89. #489
    smartass
    Reputation: amish_matt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    555
    I swapped out the Thomson remote for an XFusion BAT remote. It's not as clean looking, but the position and cabling are way better. Lighter action as well.

    Thomson Elite Dropper Post Thread-unnamed.jpg

  90. #490
    mtbr member
    Reputation: xlash's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    268
    Quote Originally Posted by amish_matt View Post
    I swapped out the Thomson remote for an XFusion BAT remote. It's not as clean looking, but the position and cabling are way better. Lighter action as well.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	unnamed.jpg 
Views:	786 
Size:	48.6 KB 
ID:	927790
    I wonder if it's as user friendly for riders with a front derailleur. I'll get a Covert or something similar in reliability and price in the distant future when I can afford one but I stayed away from the X-Fusion because of that remote. I didn't want to risk scenarios where I was hitting the remote instead of the shifter and vice versa.
    '11 Epic Comp, Shimano SPD M780, Giant Contact Switch-R, Specialized Ribcage, Bontrager Trip 200, Ergon GS1

  91. #491
    Dab-O-Matic
    Reputation: Simplemind's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    929
    Quote Originally Posted by amish_matt View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	unnamed.jpg 
Views:	786 
Size:	48.6 KB 
ID:	927790
    Curious, what fender is that shown in your photo?
    SB4.5 XX1/XTR
    SB5c X0
    Cannondale Black Di2/disk (roadie)
    '07 575 XT
    ASRc (ret)
    SB95c (ret)
    SB95a (reti)

  92. #492
    smartass
    Reputation: amish_matt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    555
    xlash: The remote works on either side of the bars, and can be positioned on top, below, or anywhere in between just by rotating the mount.

    Simplemind: It's homemade. It's this template and a flexible cutting board from Target: http://rowerowy.tczew.pl/wp-content/...C_MudGuard.pdf

  93. #493
    Dab-O-Matic
    Reputation: Simplemind's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    929
    Quote Originally Posted by amish_matt View Post
    xlash: The remote works on either side of the bars, and can be positioned on top, below, or anywhere in between just by rotating the mount.

    Simplemind: It's homemade. It's this template and a flexible cutting board from Target: http://rowerowy.tczew.pl/wp-content/...C_MudGuard.pdf
    Ah yes, thanks. I have seen that pattern before, but not with the decal!

    RE the cable/remote, were you using the original Thompson remote or the new one (I think they made a change). I'm asking because I haven't installed my Covert yet and if the new remote lever is still an issue, I'll figure out how to use my old XTR front derailleur lever instead.
    SB4.5 XX1/XTR
    SB5c X0
    Cannondale Black Di2/disk (roadie)
    '07 575 XT
    ASRc (ret)
    SB95c (ret)
    SB95a (reti)

  94. #494
    smartass
    Reputation: amish_matt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    555
    My post isn't a covert, so it would have a slightly different remote than yours.

  95. #495
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    555
    I've been running the Covert for 4-5 months now and really like the lever designed to be used with the Covert. There is a separate MTBR thread here for the covert with pictures showing it. The Covert lever has more rounded corners & the cable ends are opposite the non-Covert.

    Cheers,
    Mike

  96. #496
    mtbr member
    Reputation: rscecil007's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    2,592
    Quote Originally Posted by mbcracken View Post
    I've been running the Covert for 4-5 months now and really like the lever designed to be used with the Covert. There is a separate MTBR thread here for the covert with pictures showing it. The Covert lever has more rounded corners & the cable ends are opposite the non-Covert.

    Cheers,
    Mike
    I'm pretty happy with the newer Covert lever as well. The original dropper lever I didn't care for much, I had that on another bike. I recently modded an XT front shifter to use as the lever. Feels pretty good in the garage, but first ride will be today. We'll see how it does, then I'll decide if I will mod another shifter for the Covert lever.
    If jackasses could fly this place would be an airport.

  97. #497
    Dab-O-Matic
    Reputation: Simplemind's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    929
    Quote Originally Posted by rscecil007 View Post
    I recently modded an XT front shifter to use as the lever. Feels pretty good in the garage, but first ride will be today. We'll see how it does, then I'll decide if I will mod another shifter for the Covert lever.
    Please give some feedback on the XT lever, as that's my alternative as well.
    SB4.5 XX1/XTR
    SB5c X0
    Cannondale Black Di2/disk (roadie)
    '07 575 XT
    ASRc (ret)
    SB95c (ret)
    SB95a (reti)

  98. #498
    mtbr member
    Reputation: rscecil007's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    2,592
    Quote Originally Posted by Simplemind View Post
    Please give some feedback on the XT lever, as that's my alternative as well.
    Will do.
    If jackasses could fly this place would be an airport.

  99. #499
    Propr
    Reputation: Lowball's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    1,052
    Quote Originally Posted by Simplemind View Post
    Ah yes, thanks. I have seen that pattern before, but not with the decal!

    RE the cable/remote, were you using the original Thompson remote or the new one (I think they made a change). I'm asking because I haven't installed my Covert yet and if the new remote lever is still an issue, I'll figure out how to use my old XTR front derailleur lever instead.
    check it Pro bike: Jared Graves' Yeti SB6c - BikeRadar
    10 TransAM 1x9
    S-Works M2
    Nomad3cc xx1

  100. #500
    mtbr member
    Reputation: rscecil007's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    2,592
    There is another thread on the Covert dropper where I listed what you need to make a front shifter work the Covert dropper. I got the info listed there straight from Graves' mechanic.
    If jackasses could fly this place would be an airport.

Page 5 of 8 FirstFirst 12345678 LastLast