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  1. #1
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    Caution;  Merge;  Workers Ahead! Thomson Covert Dropper Thread

    Thomson goes stealth!
    Details:

    • 30.9mm & 31.6mm diameters
    • Shares internals with external version - Elite Dropper
    • 125mm travel
    • 400m length
    • 2 year warranty
    • Available from May 2014
    • MSRP: $479.00 ($20 increase on external version)



    Quote Originally Posted by David Parrett
    It was fairly simple, it's the same mechanically, the cartridge is just upside down. There was one mechanical interference that we had to deal with that isn't an issue in the original version. If you like the existing dropper, you're gonna like this one because it's the same, it's just that the cable's hidden, it doesn't move, and off you go.







    Quote Originally Posted by pinkbike
    For a company who took a long time to reach the point where they were happy that their first dropper seatpost was ready for market, to release this follow up version is surprisingly quick. Yet talking to Thomson's David Parrett, the reason is as simple: the only significant mechanical change to the post was flipping the cartridge the other way up inside the post. The actuator is situated at one end, so for the internally-routed version it had to be moved to the bottom. One small side effect of the change can be seen in the lever - before the cable end was in the lever and the free end of the cable was at the actuator, clamped in place by a small grub-screw. For this version that has been reversed and the cable end now sits at the actuator and the free end of the cable is at the lever, clamped by a small grub screw and then fitted inside the body of the lever itself. The housing is too fine to accommodate a crimp on the end of the cable, but once it is positioned there is no scope for it work itself free and fray. All the important features, like the sealing, the movement of the post and the feel at the lever are completely unchanged.



    HOW TO PROPERLY DRILL A FRAME

    Here's the tip from one of the bike manufacturers:

    Drilling a hole in the seat post will void your warranty and will structurally weaken your bike. We do know of a couple of people who have decided to do this regardless to our warnings. IF you were to do it, drill at the 10 o'clock position when standing in the normal riding position. This will allow for the best combination of strength and cable routing. Do NOT drill in directly from the front.

    And here's the manual from Liteville on how to drill their frames:

    Last edited by BikeBert; 01-29-2014 at 09:49 AM.
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  2. #2
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    25mm short for what I want. Wasnt really looking to drill my frame either, but I guess we cant have everything. So want a that thomson seat clamp again.

  3. #3
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    I wish they make another version of this, for frames that do not have a hole for a dropper, with the cable attached on the colar. Similar to where KS LEV has it.
    No way am I drilling my brand new Evil Uprising, although I wish it did have a hole for routing...
    Last edited by tp806; 01-27-2014 at 01:12 AM.

  4. #4
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    Thomson Covert Dropper Thread

    Can't wait!

  5. #5
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    What's the best way to modify ones frame to accept the stealth dropper?
    Todd

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by tp806 View Post
    I wish they make another version of this, for frames that do not have a hole for a dropper, with the cable attached on the colar. Similar to where KS LEV has it.
    No way am I drilling my brand new Evil Uprising, although I wish it did have a hole for routing...
    Thomson already nixed this idea. They say that putting the actuator at the collar creates weak points that lead to failure. And given the record of the KS LEV I think they may have a point...

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by DrewBird View Post
    Thomson already nixed this idea. They say that putting the actuator at the collar creates weak points that lead to failure. And given the record of the KS LEV I think they may have a point...
    Are we talking physical catastrophic failure (multi pieces) or just the thing stopping working (like every other one out there) ?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by -Todd- View Post
    What's the best way to modify ones frame to accept the stealth dropper?
    A drill.

  9. #9
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    Please do not drill your frame folks, it might lead to cracks forming around the hole on alloy frames. Carbon fiber will also delaminate when it is drilled with a conventional bit.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by JuliusHettig View Post
    Please do not drill your frame folks, it might lead to cracks forming around the hole on alloy frames. Carbon fiber will also delaminate when it is drilled with a conventional bit.
    Seriously? What about are frames that are drilled for water bottle mount holes? They are not cracking or delaminating. If done properly it shouldnt be a problem.

    It will probably terminate your warranty though (even though a hole in the seat tube had NOTHING to do with the headtube shearing off)

  11. #11
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    Drill. New bits, starting smaller, working up to about 2mm larger dia. than the hose. That way you have room to pad up around the entry hole. Go slowly so as to not build up a ton of heat.


    In my case, I used a rubber grommet.


    Smoothed the edges with some fine grit wet-dry paper, did a coating of some clear nail polish over the xposed drilled bit, ran the hose and did a fresh bleed.




    While you're about it, you can add a bit of grip tape to your remote lever - mobettah when ride somewhere with nasty humidity.


    I've taken a few pretty close looks at things since then. No delamination or cracks, at least not visibly. Bike has been fine. It's not treated gently.

    YMMV. Obviously it'll most likely void any warranty. If you have seat tube bottle bosses, drilling one of those out large enough to accomodate would be ideal, IMO.

    The only thing I'd do differently is to offset the hole a bit more to the non-drive side so as to be able to give it less sharp of a bend once in the frame. Tube has been fine though - the grommet works well - keeps stff out of the frame, and protects the hose from the cut frame edge, even though it's smoothed and covered. I'd also o a touch higher up. Anyhow, done deal.

    Pick your drilling spot carefully, and if your frame breaks on you down the road, it's not my fault!
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  12. #12
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    Absolutely. If the holes are drilled properly then it shouldn't be an issue. An alloy frame can be drilled easily but must be properly duburred. Carbon gets trickier because drilling with the improper technique or with a slightly dull bit can cause the bit to pull the layers apart. Factories tend to use drill bits that are specially designed for cutting through cf.

    So yeah, it can be done, just a bit risky with cf frames.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by 006_007 View Post
    Are we talking physical catastrophic failure (multi pieces) or just the thing stopping working (like every other one out there) ?
    Just stopping working. Putting the trigger at the collar would require moving seals around in a way that Thomson considers unacceptable.

  14. #14
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    Caution;  Merge;  Workers Ahead! How to properly drill a frame

    HOW TO PROPERLY DRILL A FRAME

    Here's the tip from one of the bike manufacturers:

    Drilling a hole in the seat post will void your warranty and will structurally weaken your bike. We do know of a couple of people who have decided to do this regardless to our warnings. IF you were to do it, drill at the 10 o'clock position when standing in the normal riding position. This will allow for the best combination of strength and cable routing. Do NOT drill in directly from the front.

    And here's the manual from Liteville on how to drill their frames:

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    Anyone know if the covert dropper can be used with the under-seat lever? I don't really like the exposed cable, and also don't really want the remote lever (or drilling a hole in my sb 95a). I'd be stoked if I could use the covert version with the under saddle lever and call it good.

    Just ordered some light bicycle 35mm rims and getting my first wheels built. That and a thomson dropper ought a set me up good.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by gravityridesitall View Post
    Anyone know if the covert dropper can be used with the under-seat lever? I don't really like the exposed cable, and also don't really want the remote lever (or drilling a hole in my sb 95a). I'd be stoked if I could use the covert version with the under saddle lever and call it good.
    How would it? The actuation bits are upside down from the regular post, and would be inside
    your frame besides. If they have made it work, that would be a sweet trick though.

    I suppose you could always e-mail them and ask...
    Florence Nightingale's Stormtrooper

  17. #17
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    This is SO going on my new bike!

  18. #18
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    Via an email from Thomson...Original release date was April 21 but that has been delayed by 12 days. Should be in QBP by mid May...the waiting game...

    Cheers,
    Mike

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by scrublover View Post
    Drill. New bits, starting smaller, working up to about 2mm larger dia. than the hose. That way you have room to pad up around the entry hole. Go slowly so as to not build up a ton of heat.


    In my case, I used a rubber grommet.


    Smoothed the edges with some fine grit wet-dry paper, did a coating of some clear nail polish over the xposed drilled bit, ran the hose and did a fresh bleed.




    While you're about it, you can add a bit of grip tape to your remote lever - mobettah when ride somewhere with nasty humidity.


    I've taken a few pretty close looks at things since then. No delamination or cracks, at least not visibly. Bike has been fine. It's not treated gently.

    YMMV. Obviously it'll most likely void any warranty. If you have seat tube bottle bosses, drilling one of those out large enough to accomodate would be ideal, IMO.

    The only thing I'd do differently is to offset the hole a bit more to the non-drive side so as to be able to give it less sharp of a bend once in the frame. Tube has been fine though - the grommet works well - keeps stff out of the frame, and protects the hose from the cut frame edge, even though it's smoothed and covered. I'd also o a touch higher up. Anyhow, done deal.

    Pick your drilling spot carefully, and if your frame breaks on you down the road, it's not my fault!

    Nice work. I like it when guys throw all caution to the wind and go against all manufacturer's warnings and brave custom mods on their own stuff just to test to see if it works.

  20. #20
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    Like everything about this thread. I am so contemplating doing this, was look at the Crank Bros as well- seems like V2 is working out much better than V1 for them.

    This is Thomson though so I am very interested in the quality.

  21. #21
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    Thomson Covert Dropper Thread

    Just had it installed today. :-)

    Riding tomorrow.
    Thomson Covert Dropper Thread-imageuploadedbytapatalk1400709463.799278.jpg

    Cheers,
    Mike

  22. #22
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    Nice!!! Ordered mine couple of days ago as they had it on their watch list. I'm expecting it by Thur or Fri....

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by WA-CO View Post
    Nice!!! Ordered mine couple of days ago as they had it on their watch list. I'm expecting it by Thur or Fri....
    Took delivery, shop had difficulty getting the post to work properly. I was successful at reproducing their failed efforts. First time I've ever been disappointed in a Thomson product. It was one of the first available. Sent back to the shop, to return to Thomson, not decide next steps.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by WA-CO View Post
    Took delivery, shop had difficulty getting the post to work properly. I was successful at reproducing their failed efforts. First time I've ever been disappointed in a Thomson product. It was one of the first available. Sent back to the shop, to return to Thomson, not decide next steps.
    i just installed one last week on my troy; very easy. the cable and housing supplied is very flexible, helped with the install. rode it twice so far and it has performed flawlessly.

    what was the issue with yours? did you torque the seat tube collar to spec? did you use the supplied cable tension adjuster?

    the craftsmanship on the covert is extremely impressive. i am curious as to what the problem was with yours.

  25. #25
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    2 week update: The post has worked great for me. I did end up moving my post slightly higher. The cable housing caught very slightly on the rubber grommet on the seat tube. I just pushed the cable housing in that matched the amount I raised the post. This is important to do because the cable housing being hung up on the grommet was causing some tension on the cable that resulted in pulling the cable just enough to activate/push the button to drop the post.
    So, when installing this post make sure to error on the side of having the cable housing too long.
    I've ridden about 100 miles of wet & muddy and dry conditions with lots of use of the dropper in the last coulpe weeks. No sign of any wiggle or movement in the post. The only minor concern so far is the trigger is sometimes slow to return to neutral. The speed that the saddle drops and raises has been perfect for my riding style.

    FWIW, this is my first dropper post so I do have a bit of a learning curve in finding the perfect height for each trail I use it on. I am a bit of a clyde with pushing 225 lbs, which is why I waited for the Thomson.

    Cheers,
    Mike

  26. #26
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    Keep the reviews coming. I'm ho-hum on the KS Lev and my Warden has stealth routing built in.

  27. #27
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    2 months and about 500 miles...still working great and no wiggle at all.

    Cheers,
    Mike

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by thefriar View Post
    Keep the reviews coming. I'm ho-hum on the KS Lev and my Warden has stealth routing built in.
    Thomson is the way to go. Far superior to KS. I have 2 regular droppers and they are solid.
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  29. #29
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    Seriously considering this post since price won't be an issue (got a generous gift card to a couple LBS's ). My frame is designed to accept dropping posts with stealth/covert cable routing. I have one question though, does anyone slam their dropper posts (non-hydraulically actuated, aka not a Reverb) with bottom-mounted cable from time to time? I plan on doing this when I ride certain steep sections and was wondering if doing so will interfere with the post's function. I'm worried about the cable bunching up either inside or outside the frame and messing with the actuation mechanism as the post is being inserted further down or pulled further out of the seat tube.
    My other choice is the Lev with the collar-mounted cable because I'd have less of an issue with the cable doing funny things when I change the posts insertion point mid-ride. That or a Thomson with an under the saddle lever.
    Hey man, wanna go for a klunk?

  30. #30
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    I have made some minor adjustments to my saddle height that involved moving the entire seatpost a little higher. The only thing I had to do was slightly push the cable housing in as I moved the post higher. I learned that if you don't adjust it, the cable housing can put enough pressure on the cable which will trigger the saddle to move up and down. Not a big deal.

    Cheers,
    Mike

  31. #31
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    Anyone know how Graves is doing this with his Covert Dropper?

    Jared Graves' Custom Dropper Lever - PIT BITS - 2014 Enduro World Series Colorado Freeride Festival - Mountain Biking Pictures - Vital MTB

    I'm not a huge fan of the Thomson lever. It's ok, but I'd much prefer and under the bar set up like Graves has, or the KS Southpaw, etc. I'm at a lost as to how Graves makes this work, since I think the end of the cable attaches to the bottom of the post, and not at the lever.

    Lars Sternberg has a similar set up to Graves but with a Fox DOSS, but I can see that working since the end of the cable is at the lever.
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  32. #32
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    Thomson Covert Dropper Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by rscecil007 View Post
    Anyone know how Graves is doing this with his Covert Dropper?

    Jared Graves' Custom Dropper Lever - PIT BITS - 2014 Enduro World Series Colorado Freeride Festival - Mountain Biking Pictures - Vital MTB

    I'm not a huge fan of the Thomson lever. It's ok, but I'd much prefer and under the bar set up like Graves has, or the KS Southpaw, etc. I'm at a lost as to how Graves makes this work, since I think the end of the cable attaches to the bottom of the post, and not at the lever.

    Lars Sternberg has a similar set up to Graves but with a Fox DOSS, but I can see that working since the end of the cable is at the lever.
    That is super slick!!!


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  33. #33
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    [QUOTE=rscecil007;11346301]Anyone know how Graves is doing this with his Covert Dropper?

    Jared Graves' Custom Dropper Lever - PIT BITS - 2014 Enduro World Series Colorado Freeride Festival - Mountain Biking Pictures - Vital MTB

    QUOTE]

    Here you go: Pro bike: Jared Graves' Yeti SB6c - BikeRadar

    They used a tiny cable stop to attach the cable to the XTR lever.

    Quote from bikeradar.com
    This hack required a bit more effort than it would have with a Fox DOSS. The Covert Elite Dropper is designed to have the fixed end of the shift cable routed from the seatpost to the lever. This is the opposite routing of a shift cable through a shift lever. Hughes' solution was to add a tiny cable stop, held in place with a set screw, to secure the cable at the dropper end.

  34. #34
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    Awesome, thank you. I normally read bikeradar but missed this.

    Now to find a small set screw cable stop like that, and figure out exactly how/what to modify on a shifter.
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  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by randan View Post
    You are welcome. Check out this link on bikerumor.com where they describe what parts you'll have to remove to convert your shifter to a remote for your dropper seatpost.
    Wow, missed that one too. You are the man, thanks. I owe you one!
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  36. #36
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    You are welcome. Check out this link on bikerumor.com where they describe what parts you'll have to remove to convert your shifter to a remote for your dropper seatpost.

  37. #37
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    Ive got a Thomson dropper with a Sram XX shifter that I converted to be used with the dropper post and wow is it in a much better and more natural position. I ground off the catch that stops the shifter from returning to the small ring and cut off the return lever. It works awesome. Have been wanting to get the covert but couldnt figure how to get the cable to work with the set up. I NEED one of those cable stops and everthing would be golden.

    Sorry about the sideways pics
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Thomson Covert Dropper Thread-20140730_145644.jpg  

    Thomson Covert Dropper Thread-20140730_145657.jpg  


  38. #38
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    JRA, if you find one of those cable stops, or anything similar you get to work, please post and let us know where you got it.

    I checked online a few places today, as we as Lowe's (go right by it on the way home) and didn't find anything. I'll try Ace Hardware tomorrow.
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  39. #39
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    Will do, but I think its going to have to be made or if found online somewhere its one of those items that you have to buy a 100qty at a time.....wait that might not be so bad, I could sell them to members on this forum

  40. #40
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    JRA,

    Any luck finding anything that works? I picked up a XT shifter cheap to modify, but still no luck with the set screw/cable stop piece. Have some stuff I could probably make work if I had access to a machine shop, but it would be a bit of work.
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  41. #41
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    Any tricks to the install? Pulling the trigger this week, my bike has the internal routing necessary but I'm curious about cutting the housing to length correctly for the Section inside the bike. Any hints?

    Sent from my Xoom Wifi using Tapatalk

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    Quote Originally Posted by thomasshawn View Post
    Any tricks to the install? Pulling the trigger this week, my bike has the internal routing necessary but I'm curious about cutting the housing to length correctly for the Section inside the bike. Any hints?

    Sent from my Xoom Wifi using Tapatalk
    When you install the cable and housing, you need to install the little tensioner somewhere on the line. So you just install the post at the approximate height you want it with the cable hooked up and then shorten the housing out in front of your handlebars (make sure not to cut your cable, just the housing). Install the tensioner where you cut the housing and then run a second piece of housing from the tensioner to the handle. It's not very clear in the directions and I'm not sure I explained it very well just now. It took me a second to figure out that I needed the tensioner and where it went. I had to look at pics online to figure it out. I actually want to move my tensioner so it's not so visible right in front of my handlebars, but it's just a personal preference.

    I have 2 of the older Thomson droppers and they feel better than the covert, although I'm on my 3rd 31.6 post and 2nd 30.9 post (warranty). The covert seems to work good enough though on the 3 rides I have on it, but I'm sure there will be a warranty issue soon enough.

  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by masonmoa View Post
    It's not very clear in the directions and I'm not sure I explained it very well just now. It took me a second to figure out that I needed the tensioner and where it went. I had to look at pics online to figure it out.

    I have 2 of the older Thomson droppers and they feel better than the covert, although I'm on my 3rd 31.6 post and 2nd 30.9 post (warranty). The covert seems to work good enough though on the 3 rides I have on it, but I'm sure there will be a warranty issue soon enough.
    Very helpful, was looking for pics and haven't seen any. If you still have links I'd love to check them out.
    As for warranty issues, I'm crossing my fingers.

  44. #44
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    Check out post #21 in this thread. There's a pic of a Santa Cruz bike with the post installed. If you look closely at the cable routing out in front of the handlebars you can see the tensioner. (Once you get the post and see the part in person you'll know exactly what to look for.) It's about 1.5/2" long and half of it is black, other half silver. I can try to take pics of mine, but I'm not very good at posting pics on here.

    As for warranty issues, Thomson is top notch. Dave is super responsive and pretty quick turn arounds. I had one Reverb and when it stopped working after 4 months SRAM tried to say it was user error, which my local mechanic didn't agree with and he argued with them to cover the fix, which they eventually did, but that was the last time I used the post. Last time I emailed with Dave about my 31.6 post I told him I was getting a covert and he told me they had worked out a lot of the quirks from the first round of droppers. Should be more reliable. And for the record, my posts never stopped working like my Reverb did out on a ride. They developed play from the collars coming loose and one later developed 10mm of sag when I sat on it. It's a "comfort feature" they hadn't let anybody know about, haha!

  45. #45
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    Also, one last thing. The covert post itself feels just as solid at the previous version posts. The biggest difference is the feel of the actuation.

  46. #46
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    Awesome. Shipped today. Can't wait.

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  47. #47
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    Pic is great. I had this image of having to cut the housing to perfectly match-up with long piece inside the frame and short piece outside the frame. That's way easier. And a whole lot less complicated.

    Sent from my Xoom Wifi using Tapatalk

  48. #48
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    here's my install installing a Thomson Covert Dropper

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  49. #49
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    Any word if a 150mm version is available yet?

  50. #50
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    I read where a 150mm is in the works. Maybe on bikerumor or something, not sure.
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  51. #51
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    Update on cable clamps to use with front shifter like Jared Graves does. I have been thinking about how to do this since my last post, looking allover the intraweb and asking a couple of machine shops(unfortunatly I dont know anyone who works for one) and they wanted $$$$ for such a small job( has to be a minimum) that was a dead end. A couple of nights ago I was lying in bed thinking about taking some pins of my Harley vest thats when the lightning bolt hit. On the backs of my pins on my vest I use Pin Savers that screw down on the pin and it wont let the pin come off your vest easily. Took one off and opend up my XX front shifter and tried it. Inserted an old cable into shifter and tightend one of the Pin Savers on cable and put into shifter. The Pin Saver is a little long but it fits inside a SRAM front shifter with the cover put back on and no interferance. The Pin Saver could be ground on both sides alittle to get a better fit where the cable end sits but the main thing is it works. So go to your local motorcycle store and get a pack of Pin Savers and your Covert post will work with front shifter. I DO NOT KNOW IF IT WILL WORK ON SHIMANO SHIFTERS. http://pinsaver.com/cart/images/main/373_1.jpg

  52. #52
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    Damn it, I totally forgot to post back here. I actually talked to Graves' mechanic Shawn. What he used are these: moped mini knarp cable stop

    order a few extra, he said they are fragile. Also, he said where the knarp needs to sit in the covert post is about 4mm, you need to oversize this to 5mm, so the knarp fits snugly into the covert opening. Probably easiest to do with a drill bit. and then he used a bit of gorilla tape around the red bit of the covert, just to make sure the cable head didn't fall out.

    I've got the knarps from treatland, I've just not had time to mod it up yet.
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  53. #53
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    I encountered an issue with my Covert last night. It still goes up and down fine, but it doesn't always want to stop if the post is about more than halfway up. I can sit on it and "catch it" once I've hit the lever and then it will stop and stay, but if I don't do that, it wants to slowly keep creeping up. Almost as if the cable tension is too tight or the lever is stuck.

    I don't remember it doing this before. I tried adjusting the cable tension on the trail, both loose and tight, no change. To be fair I've not looked at it anymore since I got home late, but anyone had something similar happen before? I plan on trouble shooting it this afternoon. Thanks.
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  54. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by rscecil007 View Post
    I encountered an issue with my Covert last night. It still goes up and down fine, but it doesn't always want to stop if the post is about more than halfway up. I can sit on it and "catch it" once I've hit the lever and then it will stop and stay, but if I don't do that, it wants to slowly keep creeping up. Almost as if the cable tension is too tight or the lever is stuck.

    I don't remember it doing this before. I tried adjusting the cable tension on the trail, both loose and tight, no change. To be fair I've not looked at it anymore since I got home late, but anyone had something similar happen before? I plan on trouble shooting it this afternoon. Thanks.
    Cable tension w/b my first thought as well. Could you disconnect at the bottom of the post and see if there is a bind in the cable actuation?
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    Make sure there is no cable tension from the cable housing from not being flush against the bottom of the post. I ran into a similar scenario when I raised my entire post up higher and fixed by simply feeding more cable housing into the hole on my frames seat tube (SC Tallboy). That might help...

    Cheers,
    Mike

  56. #56
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    Ok, thanks. I check these things out when I get home later on and report back.
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  57. #57
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    Just got the Covert installed on my Enduro. Here is what I did with the remote and adjuster...
    Thomson Covert Dropper Thread-image.jpg
    Cut down V-brake noodle and a inline adjuster from my old Roubaix.
    Much cleaner routing IMO.
    Thomson Covert Dropper Thread-image.jpg
    Too many toys, not enough time.

  58. #58
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    Sorry for the upside down pics, I blame my Iphone!
    Too many toys, not enough time.

  59. #59
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    [QUOTE=Phierce;11520083]Click image for larger version. 

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    Cut down V-brake noodle and a inline adjuster from my old Roubaix.
    Much cleaner routing IMO.

    Ahh yes, mo betta. Please explain the noodle, and the process to install it?
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  60. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by rscecil007 View Post
    Damn it, I totally forgot to post back here. I actually talked to Graves' mechanic Shawn. What he used are these: moped mini knarp cable stop

    order a few extra, he said they are fragile. Also, he said where the knarp needs to sit in the covert post is about 4mm, you need to oversize this to 5mm, so the knarp fits snugly into the covert opening. Probably easiest to do with a drill bit. and then he used a bit of gorilla tape around the red bit of the covert, just to make sure the cable head didn't fall out.

    I've got the knarps from treatland, I've just not had time to mod it up yet.
    So did you cobble up an XTR lever using the knarp? I think I have everything I need, but it looks like I need to remove the return lever and some internals to get this to work. Did he give you any clues in how to make the mod?
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  61. #61
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    I didn't want to spring the cash for an XTR shifter, so I found a I-spec XT lever I modded. I don't have any pics but you need to take out a few pieces and dremel off the pin holding the return lever. I think I have a page bookmarked at home where someone else snapped a few pics of what pieces they removed.

    FWIW though, I did use the lever on my standard Thomson dropper on another bike. Worked great, and felt much better than the old stock Thomson lever (not the newer one that comes with the Covert.)
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  62. #62
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    To all those the are using a knarp of some sort, 1) are you using the knarp at the lever end or the post end? and 2) have you had any issues with it pulling out?
    My first attempt was not successful as the cable pulled out of the knarp (at the lever end).
    The knarp doesn't fit into the XTR recess where the molded cable stop goes, so assuming you're putting the knarp in the lever end, did you modify anything to make the knarp fit better?
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  63. #63
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    SM,

    Sorry I've not tried my Knarp yet. I was going to with the modded XT shifter I have, but know I'll have to wait. I got new XTR Race levers which have yet another totally different I-spec config that won't work with my shifter.

    But my thinking was to try it on the lever end, as that might be easier than using it on the post end. But sounds like form your experience that's not the case.
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  64. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by rscecil007 View Post
    SM,

    Sorry I've not tried my Knarp yet. I was going to with the modded XT shifter I have, but know I'll have to wait. I got new XTR Race levers which have yet another totally different I-spec config that won't work with my shifter.

    But my thinking was to try it on the lever end, as that might be easier than using it on the post end. But sounds like form your experience that's not the case.
    The problem is the XTR cable attachment, as most, have a pocket that sits in line with the cable. The knarp sits 90* to the cable, and the is little wiggle room. I took the dremel grinder and cut out a pocket to fit the knarp, and so far it's working okay. Not elegant, but quite functional. The problem i had was getting enough slack out. I have the Thompson adjuster as well as the XTR adjuster almost maxed out. What's needed is a self clamping cable stop that wedges tighter as cable tension increases. That way you can pull the slack out of the cable and it would lock down with tension. Guess I'm dreaming.
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  65. #65
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    This might not work, but have you though about removing the XTR pod of the bars, taking the top cover off it, and trying to set the cable tension that way? With the cover off it might give you more room to work and get more cable play out.

    Might not though, I've not tried this and just thinking out loud...
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  66. #66
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    [QUOTE=rscecil007;11568132]This might not work, but have you though about removing the XTR pod of the bars, taking the top cover off it, and trying to set the cable tension that way? QUOTE]

    Yeah, that's what I did, but there is so little room to work, and when you have all thumbs, it especially difficult! I'll probably get this all worked out and then the post will fail...oops, no negative thinking.
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  67. #67
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    Haha, yeah I can see where this might be tricky even this way. LMK how you fare, I'll probably be dealing with this sooner or later myself!
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  68. #68
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    I've looked but can't find the answer: would the KS Southpaw work with a Thompson Covert Elite dropper? Anyone running this?

  69. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by MattMay View Post
    I've looked but can't find the answer: would the KS Southpaw work with a Thompson Covert Elite dropper? Anyone running this?
    Wow...I just made the same recommendation to a friend of mind...anxious to hear if anyone has.

  70. #70
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    And over on the Thomson Elite Dropper Post thread, it looks like the answer is "no." Because the cable direction on the Covert works is opposite.

  71. #71
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    No, it def won't work on a Covert, unless you get a Knarp and run it similar to what Jared Graves does.

    Work all day long on the non-Covert model though.
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  72. #72
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    My Covert dropper was getting persnickety and randomly moving or staying put. I fiddled with the cable and tensioner but nothing seemed to work. I'd had on since 5/21 and put about 2,000 miles on it. Decided to take it my LBS and see if one of my fav bike mechanics and I could resolve this problem with out sending it in to Thomson.
    The red trigger attached to the base was the culprit and not moving smoothly. He tore open the oil reservoir that pushes the buttom on the actually dropper post and said there was a fair amount of air in it. Super cleaned and used Shimano mineral oil (more slippery and less viscous) to rebuild it. Changed out the original cable and housing to shifter ones plus a new tensioner. Works better then new. The trigger seems more crisp & dropper returns to full height a bit faster too when released.

    The shop worked with Thomson on how to tear it down and such. Can be a bit tricky as there is one threaded cap that is reverse threaded.

    The main dropper post was still working fine and am glad we didn't have to send it in.

    Cheers,
    Mike

  73. #73
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    I've been considering moving from a Gravity Dropper Turbo LP to a Thomson Covert Elite. The GD is pretty reliable, but pretty basic. And damn ugly since I still have the boot on it.

    Interestingly, there seems to be low inventory of the 30.9. I see some at CRC and also Thomson direct, but all my favorite web stores like Art's and UC don't have any 30.9 in stock. Anyone bought a 30.9 recently?

  74. #74
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    Thomson Covert Dropper Thread

    I did. Had to get it straight from Thomson. LBS had no luck thru distributors. First ride today. Smooth.
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  75. #75
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    Competitive Cyclist has them in-stock at the moment. Just got mine from them this last week.

    After having two air piston posts, this hydraulic action and speed is quite different in smoothness and speed.

  76. #76
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    Is there any issue in using a KS southpaw as a lever for this or is the shifter hack the only way to do it?
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  77. #77
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    Thomson Covert Dropper Thread

    Shifter hack. Or something like it w southpaw. I posted same q a few posts back. It was answered in another thread, the Thomson Elite Dropper thread, close cousin to this one.
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  78. #78
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    Has anyone successfully sourced just a Covert trigger/ remote lever? I've emaild Thomson though their website 3 times and yet to hear a reply.
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  79. #79
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    Just opened the box and noticed the housing was very heavy duty. Anybody used a lighter shifter housing?

  80. #80
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    Yes, I use Shimano SP41 housing to match my shifter housing. Works great.
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  81. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by rscecil007 View Post
    Yes, I use Shimano SP41 housing to match my shifter housing. Works great.
    Great. Odd that they provide such a heavy cable. Think I'll use coated inner as well.

  82. #82
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    Either you can't or won't, let someone who's good do it. Drill baby drill. With good bits and planning , really nothing will go wrong. Do it clean. And plan it out. I come from a tool maker machinest back ground and I'm an 80's starter in mtb. I've drilled a million purple Ano parts in my time. No fail.
    I've drilled or weld modified every piece of gear I own, and that includes sewing , with no fear. Do it . Your bike will not break.
    That said , I've never messed with carbon.

  83. #83
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    Hi guys,

    How does one easily remove the dropper and put it back quickly without the need of using tools or is this even possible?
    I have to drain water out of the frame after each bike wash hence the question above.

    I've used a KS LEV and removal was pretty easy by just detaching the remote cable located at the seat collar area which allows removal of the dropper post from the frame. So, no tools needed for this feat. Then, I'd drain the water out by tilting the bike upside down. Putting the dropper back is just as simple as snapping it all back.

    Hope to get some tips on this from you guys. Thanks.

  84. #84
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    Would a command post SRL lever like this one work perhaps? That's be a perfect solution for me. Specialized Command Post SRL Lever

    I'm between the typical choices of LEV Integra, Reverb Stealth, and Thomson Covert.
    I can get any of the three for roughly the same price.

    For me the thomson has supposed reliability going for it plus the wonderful seat clamp mechanism. On the downside, I'm not big on the gold and Art's Cyclery lists is as 110g heavier than the equivalent reverb (672g vs. 562g). Is that accurate?

    I'm not a huge weight weanie but 110g is a pretty big chunk o' weight on just a seatpost. I'm going to have to do some long distance racing with this thing so the grams will count at least a little.

  85. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by rusty904 View Post
    I'm between the typical choices of LEV Integra, Reverb Stealth, and Thomson Covert.
    I can get any of the three for roughly the same price.

    For me the thomson has supposed reliability going for it plus the wonderful seat clamp mechanism. On the downside, I'm not big on the gold and Art's Cyclery lists is as 110g heavier than the equivalent reverb (672g vs. 562g).
    I would get the one that disappears on your bike, i.e. one that feels so natural that you forget about it. That's why I decided to do the XTR front shifter conversion.
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  86. #86
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    KS Southpaw with Thompson Covert Elite

    My local expert mechanic (shoutout to Win at Win's Wheels, Westlake Village, CA) was able to do a Graves-like shifter hack using a KS Southpaw, with the hack at the shifter end, not the post end. He took a small aluminum cylinder, ground one end to fit into the Southpaw, drilled a hole for a set screw, and voila! Love it...minimal throw, almost push-button-like.

    Thomson Covert Dropper Thread-img_3838.jpg

  87. #87
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    In my humble opinion, you should possibly be using a smaller frame if you can't even adjust your post five inches. With a smaller frame you'll get greater control, then raise the post up for max power.

  88. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by RASER View Post
    In my humble opinion, you should possibly be using a smaller frame if you can't even adjust your post five inches. With a smaller frame you'll get greater control, then raise the post up for max power.
    What are you talking about?

  89. #89
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    Am I getting old I am seeing double.

    http://forums.mtbr.com/general-discu...ad-810239.html

    What the op starts the same thread every two years? Are we be going to see another thomson thread next year.

    Klurejr I think you are start to slack a little.
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  90. #90
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    Posted in the Elite Dropper thread as well, but thought I'd post here- my Covert stopped working after about 5 rides. Sucks. Have always been super happy with Thomson stuff and expected a much more durable product. Basically, the post won't come back up. Started getting sticky after the first couple of rides, wouldn't come up the last inch, and now doesn't come up at all. I've played with cable tension as well as checking the seat clamp, etc.
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  91. #91
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    so whats the general opinion on the covert dropper, i have a doss on my current bike and thinking i might give the covert a go on the new bike? the doss is perfect apart from the cabling.

    ta

  92. #92
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    Quote Originally Posted by Proxyserv View Post
    Hi guys,

    How does one easily remove the dropper and put it back quickly without the need of using tools or is this even possible?
    I have to drain water out of the frame after each bike wash hence the question above.

    I've used a KS LEV and removal was pretty easy by just detaching the remote cable located at the seat collar area which allows removal of the dropper post from the frame. So, no tools needed for this feat. Then, I'd drain the water out by tilting the bike upside down. Putting the dropper back is just as simple as snapping it all back.

    Hope to get some tips on this from you guys. Thanks.
    I've got the same question as I'm shopping for my first dropper and Thomson is at the top of my list.
    A second question regarding weight. Many sites incl Thomson show about 590g incl lever and cable but Arts says 672g, a big difference. Any feedback on that difference would be appreciated.

  93. #93
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    I'm finally going to get a dropper post, and have decided that the Thomson Covert is going to be it. Sold my old MTB last night, so I have a wad of cash in my wallet begging for some new parts.

    I wasn't really convinced of dropper posts' usefulness while demoing them on my local trails. I always forgot I had one, except for the weird sideways saddle wobble, which I HATED. But I've done two mtb trips this year to real mountains with downhills longer than a few minutes long, and actually felt like I would benefit from a dropper. I have another trip coming up in Sept, so having a dropper for that should be nice. It sure seems like Thomson has addressed the annoying sideways saddle wobble other posts have (I think the ones I've demo'd have all been Reverbs). Plus, I like the longer service intervals on it.

    I should have it sometime next week.

    The rest of the cash in my wallet is going to an I9 wheel build for my wife, with carbon hoops. Gonna surprise her with the purple ano hubs, instead of black (which I can get cheaper).

  94. #94
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    Got my Covert installed this evening. Slick. Can't wait to get it on the trail. Unfortunately, it won't be until next month that I'm on a trail where I can REALLY take advantage of the dropper.

    I might go this weekend to visit one of the local trails where I could make good use of it since I have the whole weekend off. Will have to see how the schedule works out.

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    I ended up kinking the stock cable when trying to slip in a rubber and frame guard. Does anyone know if the OEM housing and cable can be replaced with shimano shifting cables?

  96. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by wrinklefree View Post
    I ended up kinking the stock cable when trying to slip in a rubber and frame guard. Does anyone know if the OEM housing and cable can be replaced with shimano shifting cables?
    OEM stuff, IIRC, is brake housing with shifter inner.

  97. #97
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    Quote Originally Posted by wrinklefree View Post
    I ended up kinking the stock cable when trying to slip in a rubber and frame guard. Does anyone know if the OEM housing and cable can be replaced with shimano shifting cables?
    Yep no problem. I used standard quality shift inner outer. I didn't use the orig as it was too heavy

  98. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snozz View Post
    Yep no problem. I used standard quality shift inner outer. I didn't use the orig as it was too heavy
    Thought I'd add my experience...
    I've had problems with the stock covert actuator because the grub screw doesn't hit the cable full-on. Instead it grabs like 1/3 of the cables the make up the shift cable. After a while they break from being bent over and over as you use the post. This happened to me on a 3-day MTB trip I did solo this summer and thankfully I had a spare dérailleur cable (think it was a miracle) that got me back on the trail.

    So I found some knarps at my local hardware store and went for it. It was like $2.50 for 4 of them. They are a similar shape to the lead stopper at the end of a stock shift cable but a little bigger, like about 6-7mm diameter and 6mm long.

    I have XTR 11 speed shifting, and had a spare XTR LH sitting around. I pulled out the pawl that catches the shift plate (is that the right word? Probably not but if you've opened one of these up you know what I mean) and attached the Knarp inside the shifter while disassembled. It did not fit into the spot where a lead stopper would sit but there were no clearance issues. It just sits outside that little deal.

    I cut off the trigger actuator and voila! Works like a champ and so much slicker than that piece of garbage they sent me with my post.

  99. #99
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    I've just swapped by Thomson Covert remote lever for a Specialized Command Post SRL. It attaches direct to my left SRAM Matchmaker X clamp and is presented like a front shifter paddle (I run a 1x11).

    Feels more natural to me with cable routing and position much more to my liking. The install requires the use of very small set screw cable stop to attach to the post actuator.

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  100. #100
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    Hey guys, I just installed a covert on my insurgent and it takes a bit of force on the lever to get the dropper to engage. And once it engages the post comes up pretty slow. I've ran the non stealth version of the Thomson on my old bike and had no issues with it. Could it be the bend near the bb that might be causing the cable to get caught up? And what's up with the slow movement? Does it just need to be broke in a bit? Thanks


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