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  1. #401
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    Specialized Command Post Blacklite

    Quote Originally Posted by goffy View Post
    Hi,
    My son has a command post on a recently purchased Stumpy expert,
    the dropper works in all three positions fine, then randomly drops a small amount(maybe an inch or two) from its fully extended position when riding. press the lever and it pops up again.
    on a ride it can happen quite a few times, ride for a mile or so no problems, then it goes again.
    the couple of times he's rode it its been near 0-+3c.
    Any advise please?
    thanks in advance.
    I've noticed mine can get a little funky in the cold- 2 years ago a replaced the grease with Mobil 1 per specialized that worked perfect for two years/ yesterday had to add air- I'd start there 40psi

  2. #402
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    Specialized Command Post Blacklite

    Quote Originally Posted by goffy View Post
    Hi,
    My son has a command post on a recently purchased Stumpy expert,
    the dropper works in all three positions fine, then randomly drops a small amount(maybe an inch or two) from its fully extended position when riding. press the lever and it pops up again.
    on a ride it can happen quite a few times, ride for a mile or so no problems, then it goes again.
    the couple of times he's rode it its been near 0-+3c.
    Any advise please?
    thanks in advance.
    Check the cable tension so there is just a tiny bit of play when you first hit the trigger( you should be able to press the trigger a tiny bit before the cable starts moving) There might be too much tension preventing the pin to return completely and so the collet might not be expanding completely. Then check the air pressure with the post fully expanded to see if it's within specs. When the post is returning to the fully expanded position it should be pretty forceful. If it's returning kind of slow then maybe it's not locking into position completely.

  3. #403
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    How much air pressure do you guys normally use? Do you measure it with the post low or high?

  4. #404
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    Quote Originally Posted by pwu_1 View Post
    Check the cable tension so there is just a tiny bit of play when you first hit the trigger( you should be able to press the trigger a tiny bit before the cable starts moving) There might be too much tension preventing the pin to return completely and so the collet might not be expanding completely. Then check the air pressure with the post fully expanded to see if it's within specs. When the post is returning to the fully expanded position it should be pretty forceful. If it's returning kind of slow then maybe it's not locking into position completely.
    Thanks for your replies,
    I'll do some of the checks you advise tomorrow.
    The post does return really quickly, something i noticed compared to my reverb, when he got the bike.
    I'll have a look at the cable, then double check the pressure.
    cheers

  5. #405
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    Specialized Command Post Blacklite

    Quote Originally Posted by goffy View Post
    Thanks for your replies,
    I'll do some of the checks you advise tomorrow.
    The post does return really quickly, something i noticed compared to my reverb, when he got the bike.
    I'll have a look at the cable, then double check the pressure.
    cheers
    Prolly best place to start- last time I replaced the cable- I did make it too tight and it would self-lower- there should be a barrel adjuster for fine tuning
    The low air has more to do with not extending- the psi spec is 40 max when fully extended

  6. #406
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    I have started loosing air in my Blacklite IR. I pump it up to 30-40 psi to start the ride and within 30 minutes, there is no air in it. Holds positions just fine, but have to manually adjust. I took it apart last week, cleaned it up, put Slick Honey everywhere, and it worked great. Fired up, thought I fixed it. 2 weeks later, now losing air again quickly. I assume the seals are shot and I need to get it serviced? If so, can a Spec shop do this in person, or do they have to send it out? If I can rebuild a RP23 with a new seal kit (not mechanically inclined), I would hope they could do this in house.

  7. #407
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    if I recall there isn't any o-ring for the air seal, but a plastic bushing. I would make sure to take it off and clean/regrease then maybe replace if you don't see any grooves in the inner tube or not leaking at the valve (use soapy water to see where the air leak is).

    I'm amazed it's an air shock, yet weights more than my old mechanical Gravity dropper post did...

  8. #408
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    There is an o ring on the bottom cap of the standard BL, not sure about the IR.

  9. #409
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    IR is a bit different as the collett stays in the post and does not come out.

  10. #410
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    Finally disassembled my Blacklite after over three years (Dec '11 purchase) of year-round usage in the dry SW. It's been sluggish on the return for a while now, but it's always come up on it's own.

    Comes apart easy enough, with only a couple parts that can fall out without grease to keep them stuck in and the whole process only takes a few minutes. It was slightly grungy, not as dirty as the post in the dis-assembly video though, and one petal of the collet had broken off. Kinda curious about how long it's been broken and when/if more will break off and when/if it will stop holding position.

    Now it's back to snapping back up with ball-threatening authority, should have done it a while ago.

    When it eventually stops working one day, I'll probably get another since they're still only $275 retail.

  11. #411
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    Quote Originally Posted by richde View Post
    Finally disassembled my Blacklite after over three years...one petal of the collet had broken off. Kinda curious about how long it's been broken and when/if more will break off and when/if it will stop holding position.
    once you brake a couple it won't hold position anymore. reducing the rebound speed (or sit to slow it down) will reduce the chance to brake the collet. Do yourself a favor and order one now if you plan on replacing it (they are really hard to remove even with heat gun (used red thread) especially with most petals broken off) as it took Spec 2.5 months to get one! I ended up buying a spare used post so I wasn't waiting...

    word of warning when cleaning. If you remove the white bushing, DO NOT move the dust seal near the groove or it will pop and that will be the end of it. I've learned it the hard way. 2+ month for the $5 'tool' to replace with a new $30 seal kit. Agrrr...

  12. #412
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    Just curious were you able to get the tool and the seal kit from specialized?

  13. #413
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    Quote Originally Posted by adumesny View Post
    once you brake a couple it won't hold position anymore. reducing the rebound speed (or sit to slow it down) will reduce the chance to brake the collet. Do yourself a favor and order one now if you plan on replacing it (they are really hard to remove even with heat gun (used red thread) especially with most petals broken off) as it took Spec 2.5 months to get one! I ended up buying a spare used post so I wasn't waiting...

    word of warning when cleaning. If you remove the white bushing, DO NOT move the dust seal near the groove or it will pop and that will be the end of it. I've learned it the hard way. 2+ month for the $5 'tool' to replace with a new $30 seal kit. Agrrr...
    Also interested about this $5 dollar 'tool'. You have any pics? I got 3 bikes all with this post(and a spare sitting around) so if the tool is only $5 bucks might be worth it for me to get it...

  14. #414
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    Quote Originally Posted by pwu_1 View Post
    Also interested about this $5 dollar 'tool'. You have any pics? I got 3 bikes all with this post(and a spare sitting around) so if the tool is only $5 bucks might be worth it for me to get it...
    the 'tool' is just black 2 shims I believe - it's back ordered for a couple months last I checked so I had to improvise and build some ramp up ones to de-stuck my dust caps.
    Using a spare post for now. You can see the 'tools' in the specialized video - vimeo.com #56110028 at 2:44

    Note: you don't need those black shims unless you plan to replace your dust seal (or get it stuck in the white bushing groove like I did!)

  15. #415
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    Quote Originally Posted by adumesny View Post
    once you brake a couple it won't hold position anymore. reducing the rebound speed (or sit to slow it down) will reduce the chance to brake the collet. Do yourself a favor and order one now if you plan on replacing it (they are really hard to remove even with heat gun (used red thread) especially with most petals broken off) as it took Spec 2.5 months to get one! I ended up buying a spare used post so I wasn't waiting...

    word of warning when cleaning. If you remove the white bushing, DO NOT move the dust seal near the groove or it will pop and that will be the end of it. I've learned it the hard way. 2+ month for the $5 'tool' to replace with a new $30 seal kit. Agrrr...
    Honestly, I'd upgrade to the new model just for the improved seat clamp. Not worth it while the current one still works, but having to adjust the saddle every couple rides is a bit of a letdown.

  16. #416
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    Quote Originally Posted by richde View Post
    Honestly, I'd upgrade to the new model just for the improved seat clamp. Not worth it while the current one still works, but having to adjust the saddle every couple rides is a bit of a letdown.
    Didn't know they changed the seat clamp shells (I have old and new with cable quick release and new lever which are much better). Either way I use sanded paste (has little particles like sand) and crank the heck out of both - solved most issue even though I have the seat all the way back, unless I land hard on the back during a jump.

  17. #417
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    Quote Originally Posted by richde View Post
    Honestly, I'd upgrade to the new model just for the improved seat clamp. Not worth it while the current one still works, but having to adjust the saddle every couple rides is a bit of a letdown.
    Carbon paste fixes that problem. The only time my seat moved on my was when I made a mistake that brought me down hard on the nose of my saddle. Otherwise it's been on 3 bike over 2 years and hasn't moved.
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  18. #418
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    I cracked the shell of my Fizik Gobi and the seat clamp didn't move at all.

  19. #419
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    I've had my Blacklite for 3 years now, luckily with no issues whatsoever including the seat clamp. That said, I really torque it to spec (120 pounds inch), which is pretty darn tight and I don't think I would ever torque it that high without a torque wrench.

  20. #420
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    Getting the seat clamp to not slip is easy and has been posted on this site many times. It has likely been posted in this thread. Just takes a bit o mechanical know-how.



    I own two of the BL posts since they've come out which have worked great. There are many miles on each of them. The newer IR post is also good but have not riden it much yet. Have to admit that IR routing is sort of a hassle compared to the non-internal routing. The feel of the IR is smoother but I doubt I'd go that route again.

  21. #421
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    I have to agree, I've had my Command Post for about four years. I am also a clyde, I have never had an issue with the seat clamp moving. I have always greased it, and torqued it per the instructions , even with normal grease and not the gritty carbon paste.

  22. #422
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    Quote Originally Posted by dawgman25 View Post
    I have started loosing air in my Blacklite IR. I pump it up to 30-40 psi to start the ride and within 30 minutes, there is no air in it. Holds positions just fine, but have to manually adjust. I took it apart last week, cleaned it up, put Slick Honey everywhere, and it worked great. Fired up, thought I fixed it. 2 weeks later, now losing air again quickly. I assume the seals are shot and I need to get it serviced? If so, can a Spec shop do this in person, or do they have to send it out? If I can rebuild a RP23 with a new seal kit (not mechanically inclined), I would hope they could do this in house.
    FWIW, the IR is only supposed to have 25psi max. I've started having this same problem- where I put air in, and then after a couple of hours of regular use and/or a couple of days, it's losing pressure. The Spec manual says this issue is the Seal Head assembly and it needs to be serviced by a Spec dealer. Pretty bummed as this post is only a couple of months old. I've had several other Command Posts and nary an issue. I'm planning on also pulling the valve core out, putting a little slick honey on it and seeing if that helps (if that's where it might be losing air).
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

  23. #423
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    I got the PSI from old command post and my new one mixed up. Yes, around 25 psi. Had to send it back, Specialized warrantied it and turn around time was less than a week. They gave me a brand new post. This is my 3rd post and 3rd generation of posts I have had and the first time I have had an issue. Pretty dependable and good customer service.

  24. #424
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    ^great to hear that it was only a week. I hope I'm that lucky.
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  25. #425
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    Quote Originally Posted by dawgman25 View Post
    I have started loosing air in my Blacklite IR. I pump it up to 30-40 psi to start the ride and within 30 minutes, there is no air in it. Holds positions just fine, but have to manually adjust. I took it apart last week, cleaned it up, put Slick Honey everywhere, and it worked great. Fired up, thought I fixed it. 2 weeks later, now losing air again quickly. I assume the seals are shot and I need to get it serviced? If so, can a Spec shop do this in person, or do they have to send it out? If I can rebuild a RP23 with a new seal kit (not mechanically inclined), I would hope they could do this in house.
    Anyone know for sure if you can buy a seal kit and fix the leaky air issue in the Command Post IR yourself? I'm having the same problem as dawgman25 but I bought used so I'm probably SOL for warranty.

  26. #426
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    I bought used too, but got lucky with my LBS as they warrantied it. I took care of them with a good case of beer. Took about 10 days round trip and works perfect again. I never did hear exactly what was wrong with it, they just ended up giving me a brand new post. Good luck.

  27. #427
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    ^I just dropped mine off end of last week and asked the LBS to ask if they could just order the seal kit. Haven't heard back anything... time for a follow-up call...
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

  28. #428
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    Quote Originally Posted by fanderson View Post
    Anyone know for sure if you can buy a seal kit and fix the leaky air issue in the Command Post IR yourself? I'm having the same problem as dawgman25 but I bought used so I'm probably SOL for warranty.
    Seal kit ($30) should do the trick - if you plan to replace the dust seal as well (which comes in the kit) make sure to also get the tool kit ($6) that includes 2 black shims that are required to pull the dust seal out past the groove where the white shims goes (learned that the hard way) - see vimeo.com number 56110028

  29. #429
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    adumesny, great info and video. Thanks.

    alshead, interested to know if your shop can get the parts for you. I don't have a dealer nearby, so I'd really like to just order direct.

  30. #430
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    Quote Originally Posted by adumesny View Post
    Seal kit ($30) should do the trick - if you plan to replace the dust seal as well (which comes in the kit) make sure to also get the tool kit ($6) that includes 2 black shims that are required to pull the dust seal out past the groove where the white shims goes (learned that the hard way) - see vimeo.com number 56110028
    My dealer has told me that the seal kit and seal head kit are back-ordered until sometime in June.

    I damaged the quad ring inside the seal head while trying to remove the seal head and clean it... My bad, I should have watched the entire video. I ended up finding a regular o-ring from the hardware store to get me by temporarily that appears to be holding pressure, we'll see for how long though, fingers crossed.

    When it came time to get the seal head back on instead of using there black shims (which my dealer also said where on B/O) I left the white bushing in place in it's grove and took a thin strip of electrical tape cut to the width of the grove in the collet head and wrapped it in the groove until it was filled up flush with the diameter of the stanchion. Then lubed everything up with Slick Honey and slid the seal head back on. I had to rock the head slightly to get it past the white bushing but got it back on without too much fuss.

  31. #431
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    My Blacklite has been going strong since 2011, it's been pretty trouble free, but every now and again the action becomes slow/sticky despite full air pressure, and it won't go from the middle to top position on its own. When this happens I take the strap wrench to it, get the slider post off, clean and re-grease the collet/slider, and it's good to go again.

    Last ride, it stopped going from middle to top position, so I figured it's time for another re-grease, it's been 6 months. The post was last in the full drop position. However, it's now stuck there. There is plenty of air pressure and the cable is fine. With the lever fully depressed, it absolutely will not come up, no matter how hard you pull up on the seat.

    I don't think there is anything else I can do other than take it to the LBS so it can be sent to Big S to see if the post can be salvaged (or just totaled since it's 4 years old and the repair cost may exceed its value, I'm sure it's out of warranty.) However has anyone had this happen, and what was your result?

  32. #432
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    Mine old one got stuck and the collet broke off a few pieces. Most likely need to get a new collet.

  33. #433
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    Quote Originally Posted by zuuds View Post
    The post was last in the full drop position. However, it's now stuck there. There is plenty of air pressure and the cable is fine. With the lever fully depressed, it absolutely will not come up, no matter how hard you pull up on the seat.

    I don't think there is anything else I can do other than take it to the LBS so it can be sent to Big S to see if the post can be salvaged (or just totaled since it's 4 years old and the repair cost may exceed its value, I'm sure it's out of warranty.) However has anyone had this happen, and what was your result?
    if you're sure your internal cable is still connected (spring pressure to fully depress) then likely you have some broken collet pieces preventing the paws from compressing.
    You could try removing the air valve on the other side and putting some de-greaser to help unstuck any pieces and see if you hear some rattling or can dislodge whatever is loose. Replacing the collet (which I did) is a PAIN as you need a heat gun to brake the red glue and a very good wrench (groove is tiny) or their specialty tool if you have enough unbroken holes to hold on. collet is not cheap, so not that much saving vs sending it in (or getting a used one). bad design in so many ways... I've had to do 2 major repair.

    Slowing rebound, or using your butt to stop will help prevent broken collet (don't slam it up!)

  34. #434
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    I was a black lite fan as mine worked great for almost 4 years- it died a few days ago of a broken collet. Specialized wouldn't fix it- got a Thomson to replace it we'll see

  35. #435
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trackho View Post
    I was a black lite fan as mine worked great for almost 4 years- it died a few days ago of a broken collet. Specialized wouldn't fix it- got a Thomson to replace it we'll see
    They wouldn't fix it at all or they wouldn't fix it for free?

  36. #436
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    4 years is very good for a dropper post. It typically costs about $75 to fix and replace a new collet. If you needed to do this in the first year, that would be a bummer. But after 4 years, a $75 service is reasonable.

  37. #437
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    Anyone break the bolt that tightens the seat tube clamps? Broke mine right in the middle of the bolt, and yes I was using a torque wrench. Can I pick one up at a hardware store or do I need to order from Specialized?

  38. #438
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    Quote Originally Posted by jpo1 View Post
    Anyone break the bolt that tightens the seat tube clamps? Broke mine right in the middle of the bolt, and yes I was using a torque wrench. Can I pick one up at a hardware store or do I need to order from Specialized?
    I broke mine in the middle too. Can't say I was using a torque wrench, though I do now. I was and still am using the promax ST clamp that has the cable routing ring. I just got a new clamp.

    Promax DP-1 Dropper Seat Post Clamp > Components > Handlebars, Headsets and Saddles > Seatpost Collars | Jenson USA

    Do you find that no matter how much you tighten it, the post gradually slides down the shaft? I feel like that is the case. A hard hit while seated or some serious grinding uphill in the saddle and I notice it has slid down a bit. Not sure if that is the seat tube or post diameter being off. I'm on an alloy Stumpjumper Fsr 29er (2012).

    Anyone know if Friction paste would be a solution? I usually only use that with carbon parts.
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  39. #439
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    You know what my description wasn't very good. Let me try again, the bolt I broke tightens the clamps that holds the rails of the saddle. Its the torque bolt.

    LaCostaClydesdale, I have used paste on my stem and steerer tube and that worked, wouldn't hurt to try with your seatpost.

  40. #440
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    LaCostaClydesdale, I had a problem where a Loaded XLite clamp wasn't big enough (vertically) to keep proper tension on the post, in the frame, of my bike. It mostly didn't move but it sure creaked. I swapped it out for a Cromag and the the post has never slipped and it doesn't creak in the frame either.

    Carbon assembly paste is fine to use too, may or may not prevent the creak-ies over time though. Depends too much on frame+post fitment.

  41. #441
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    My post was dropping for no reason - SOLVED

    Hi, I thought I might share with you, as I got this used Specialized Command Post IR with a problem. It was dropping during my rides from Power position (fully extended) to middle position without any interaction with the cable.

    First I disconnected the cable to see if that was the problem, but didn't solve it. I assumed it had to be something inside.

    I disassembled the post following the Specialized videos on Vimeo (links shared all around this thread) and found that the distance between the collet and the center yellow piece was less than spec.

    I went on and adjusted the height, and first I went too much, which yielded the post with another problem: it was not returning when activating the lever. I opened it again and found I was out of spec this time being greater distance. I adjusted back and now is working great.

    Hopefully this will help more people.

    Specialized Command Post Blacklite-collet-height-adjust.png

  42. #442
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    Loosen broken collet

    Anyone have any tips on loosening a broken collet? I blasted mine with a heat gun for about 5 mins but can't get it to budge.

    Also how about clamping the post? I've been using a bike workstand but it doesn't seem to grip enough.

    Any tips on gripping the collet? The notch for a wrench doesn't seem to provide enough surface.

    Specialized has several tools to clamp the post and grip the collet but my dealer says they are not available i.e. they don't have them either to do the repair. Thanks!
    Last edited by freeefunk; 06-01-2016 at 05:39 PM.

  43. #443
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    had the same problem. ended up using a small torch (might have been a candle type lighter) to precisely heat just one part (separate expansion) and a very sharp wrench a mech friend had to finally get it off. I clamped the shaft with something to protect it. It was very hard... I had given up, but he refused to!

  44. #444
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    Thanks adumesny, I'll keep at it. Do you think it's possible to overheat?

  45. #445
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    Will Specialized sell service parts to poor ole bike owners or do you need to be a Specialized shop and go through all that business?

  46. #446
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    Naturally, they don't. Frustrating. Take a cue from Fox, it's 2016 and people want to work on their own bikes/parts. Bike shops are great if that's your thing but for me it's a huge waste of time and money.

  47. #447
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    Quote Originally Posted by glano View Post
    Naturally, they don't. Frustrating. Take a cue from Fox, it's 2016 and people want to work on their own bikes/parts. Bike shops are great if that's your thing but for me it's a huge waste of time and money.
    As much as I love my command posts, have a couple, I need a new post for my Mojo and I'm going with a Fox. This is one of the reasons.

    I was looking for a saddle, Specialized is out of stock online, local shops don't have one in stock, but their stupid ass shipping rules- I can't get a shop that does have it to ship it to me.
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  48. #448
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    Quote Originally Posted by glano View Post
    Naturally, they don't. Frustrating.
    It's a huge PIA. I really would like to do some simple service on my posts (i have 3) but can't since Spec won't sell me a $1.50 tool. I have to finagle my LBS to pull strings in order wrangle one from them. I don't like wasting my LBS time.

  49. #449
    Dab-O-Matic
    Reputation: Simplemind's Avatar
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    Jul 2006
    Posts
    846
    Anyone tried to install a carbon rail saddle on their command post? I have an Ergon saddle with carbon rails which are almost rectangular in cross-section and it wouldn't come close to fitting, not because of the shape of the rails, but because of clearance issues. The Ergon saddle has a lower profile rail height and it doesn't seem to have enough room with the stock clamp. Any Ergon carbon users here?
    ASRc X0
    SB5c X0
    Cannondale Black
    (roadie)
    '07 575 XT
    SB95c (retired)
    SB95a (retired)

  50. #450
    mtbr member
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    Jul 2011
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    5,580
    Quote Originally Posted by Simplemind View Post
    Anyone tried to install a carbon rail saddle on their command post? I have an Ergon saddle with carbon rails which are almost rectangular in cross-section and it wouldn't come close to fitting, not because of the shape of the rails, but because of clearance issues. The Ergon saddle has a lower profile rail height and it doesn't seem to have enough room with the stock clamp. Any Ergon carbon users here?
    Maybe: https://www.specialized.com/us/en/co...adapter/105011
    Ibis Mojo 3
    Carver 420 TI
    Lenz Lunchbox punkass

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