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  1. #351
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    I strongly agree - it is a fantastic post from my 2 years experience with it with no issues, but once you get it set and dialed in I wouldn't want to mess with it unless I had to. The little barrel nut that holds the cable just doesn't seem like something that should be tightened/loosened on a regular basis.

  2. #352
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    After 18 months my 125mm Blacklite went kaput mid-ride. Won't hold position any more, smooth motion is gone, and it feels jammed up. I assume the collet is broken. Oddly enough I could not get it open even though I have a good strap wrench. So I took it in to the shop, and am now switching a single seatpost between two bikes.

    The post has had no problems prior to this.

    The good news was that the bike was still rideable with the busted dropper post; it went down to the bottom position and I just raised the post.

  3. #353
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    Quote Originally Posted by mestapho View Post
    Well, broke a piece off of the collet again.
    It'll be going in for warranty repair for the second time for the same issue.
    Think I'm switching to a Gravity Dropper now.
    Did they actually cover it under warranty? I was just told this morning that it is a "wear item" the and that I would have to pay for the repair even though the post is less than a year old.
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  4. #354
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    Quote Originally Posted by rollertoaster View Post
    Did they actually cover it under warranty? I was just told this morning that it is a "wear item" the and that I would have to pay for the repair even though the post is less than a year old.
    Yep they warrantied mine. I sold it before ever using it again.

  5. #355
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    Quote Originally Posted by rollertoaster View Post
    Did they actually cover it under warranty? I was just told this morning that it is a "wear item" the and that I would have to pay for the repair even though the post is less than a year old.
    Damn that sucks. How much is the repair going to cost?

  6. #356
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    They want $75 to repair and ship it. I'm not gonna do it. I'll just use another post on the bike.

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  7. #357
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    So it's maintenance time on my blacklite. I made the mistake on my old (gen 1) command post of removing the white bushing and getting the seal head stuck in the channel. Had to send to specialized to fix that one. I want to clean the blacklite and lube the seal head with a lighter lube for better cold weather action. If I keep the white bushing in place, would the sealhead be able to slide over this to be removed, cleaned, re-lubed, and reinstalled?

    Or is it pretty much just not a good idea to remove the seal head from the post without have specialized's special seal head reinstallation tool?

  8. #358
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    Hey folks, just resurecting this thread. ive had a blacklite post for about a year now.. i bought it used and its never really functioned properly. wouldnt return from the cruiser position to top. Now the 90 degree noodle has snapped.. ive read on here about peeps doing away with it. has anyone got any pics of an install where theyve done away with the noodle? also what cable would be suitable to replace the standard stuff with?

  9. #359
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    Re: Specialized Command Post Blacklite

    Quote Originally Posted by turbo1397 View Post
    Hey folks, just resurecting this thread. ive had a blacklite post for about a year now.. i bought it used and its never really functioned properly. wouldnt return from the cruiser position to top. Now the 90 degree noodle has snapped.. ive read on here about peeps doing away with it. has anyone got any pics of an install where theyve done away with the noodle? also what cable would be suitable to replace the standard stuff with?
    Grease too thick? Air pressure too low?

    It's a normal shifter cable.

  10. #360
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    Quote Originally Posted by turbo1397 View Post
    Hey folks, just resurecting this thread. ive had a blacklite post for about a year now.. i bought it used and its never really functioned properly. wouldnt return from the cruiser position to top. Now the 90 degree noodle has snapped.. ive read on here about peeps doing away with it. has anyone got any pics of an install where theyve done away with the noodle? also what cable would be suitable to replace the standard stuff with?
    No pictures handy but for the noodle removal, you would just remove it and replace the 2 piece housing with one continuous run from the lever to the seatpost. Basically it would look like a derailleur installation.
    As for the inner cable, any mtb derailleur cable will work fine. Since you want to remove the noodle, you can probably just go get a replacement housing/cable.
    Something like this or similar
    Clarks Stainless Steel Universal Derailleur Cables -

  11. #361
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    I replaced mine with these. Easy swap over... remove old noodle, replace with this: U Z Bike Stainless "Flexie" Flexible V Brake Noodle 2pcs Set Black | eBay

    I think they are the same thing KS uses with their posts.

  12. #362
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    So what is the best kind of grease to lube up these things? Mine functioned great for a for like 9 months with the stock grease in it, and once it started to get stick, I took it apart and cleaned and lubed with wheel bearing grease and it required cleaning again after just a couple of months.

    Thanks

  13. #363
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    I believe Slick Honey is the preferred choice and that's what I have used. But, I wouldn't say it that is the only choice.

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  14. #364
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    Mine requires a few drops of stanchion lube every 3 or 4 rides, or whenever I wash the bike. Otherwise it gets slow to return and eventually won't go to the top position. When it was a year old I took it apart and re-greased it with bearing grease. I still need to use the stanchion lube.

    No complaints, as it otherwise works flawlessly.

  15. #365
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    I've had zero issues with mine over two years now, riding through a pair of stoopid wet Northwest Winters included. It's one of the few bike parts I've paid full retail on (more for warranty piece of mind...) and I'm about to do it again as my new frame takes a 31.6 so my Chameleon SS just got a dropper post....I'm going to do the flexy stainless noodle repalcement. One thing that really helped me especially in the PNWet was switching the cable out to a Jagwire teflon coated cable. I'm sure any teflon coated shifter cable will work, but it really helped my unit.

    In the end I feel better using a mechanical unit that can be raised to full extension if something goes sideways vs. hydraulic fail drop done.

    On that note - anyone selling a 31.6 sized Command Post get in touch, I'm in the market for one now and less reluctant to buy used now that they've got a history and the known bugs and fixes are out there. Cash in hand $$$, you selling? I'm buying!

  16. #366
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    hi people!
    is it safe to use 30.9 seatpost with shim to 31.6

  17. #367
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    Quote Originally Posted by cka3o4nuk View Post
    hi people!
    is it safe to use 30.9 seatpost with shim to 31.6
    I've done it without problem.

  18. #368
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    Is there any way to adjust the travel of the post? For example, I have a 125mm post. The cruiser position is a 35mm drop, the descender position is another 90mm drop. What I would like to do is make the descender position only another 35mm drop OR make the cruiser a +/- 50mm drop and leave descender at the bottom. My problem is that I am a tall rider (6'4" 34" inseam) on an XL frame. The cruiser isn't quite low enough for me descending technical stuff. The descender is WAY too low and is basically not useable for me as it makes pedaling extremely inefficient.

    I might be spoiled as I came off of a KS LEV which has infinite adjustability. That got sold with my old bike. That was good, except with infinite adjustability I found I was always fiddling with the top setting between fully extended and "cruiser-like" psoition.
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  19. #369
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    Well, I'm sure you could if you were a machinist and could machine an additional groove inside for the collett to engage.

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  20. #370
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    Quote Originally Posted by LaCostaClydesdale View Post
    Is there any way to adjust the travel of the post? For example, I have a 125mm post. The cruiser position is a 35mm drop, the descender position is another 90mm drop. What I would like to do is make the descender position only another 35mm drop OR make the cruiser a +/- 50mm drop and leave descender at the bottom. My problem is that I am a tall rider (6'4" 34" inseam) on an XL frame. The cruiser isn't quite low enough for me descending technical stuff. The descender is WAY too low and is basically not useable for me as it makes pedaling extremely inefficient.

    I might be spoiled as I came off of a KS LEV which has infinite adjustability. That got sold with my old bike. That was good, except with infinite adjustability I found I was always fiddling with the top setting between fully extended and "cruiser-like" psoition.
    I need a new dropper and I'm debating another Blacklite or a Gravity dropper. I don't like infinite ones. The interesting thing I found with the GD is that you can chose to have the middle position be a 1 inch or 2 inch drop. I've been thinking that a 2 inch drop might be nice.

    If I can't find someone to trade blacklites with I may go with GD.
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  21. #371
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    Droppers....

    Quote Originally Posted by TwoTone View Post
    I need a new dropper and I'm debating another Blacklite or a Gravity dropper. I don't like infinite ones. The interesting thing I found with the GD is that you can chose to have the middle position be a 1 inch or 2 inch drop. I've been thinking that a 2 inch drop might be nice.

    If I can't find someone to trade blacklites with I may go with GD.
    Go with a 1". 2" is way too much - I know it doesn't sound like it, but it is.

    Both are great posts. I've been on GDs since they first came out. Durability is second to none. I like the Spec 'cause I like set back posts. The GD doesn't really look all that cool either.

  22. #372
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    Might as well post here.

    Anyone have a 75mm that wants to trade for 100mm one? The 100 is too long for my new frame.
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  23. #373
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    Quote Originally Posted by LaCostaClydesdale View Post
    Is there any way to adjust the travel of the post? For example, I have a 125mm post. The cruiser position is a 35mm drop, the descender position is another 90mm drop. What I would like to do is make the descender position only another 35mm drop OR make the cruiser a +/- 50mm drop and leave descender at the bottom. My problem is that I am a tall rider (6'4" 34" inseam) on an XL frame. The cruiser isn't quite low enough for me descending technical stuff. The descender is WAY too low and is basically not useable for me as it makes pedaling extremely inefficient.

    I might be spoiled as I came off of a KS LEV which has infinite adjustability. That got sold with my old bike. That was good, except with infinite adjustability I found I was always fiddling with the top setting between fully extended and "cruiser-like" psoition.
    I think you're missing the point of dropper posts... If the post is dropped, that means you're descending or navigating technical terrain and should not be seated, ever. Pedal standing up. When it's raised, you're either climbing or spinning it out on the flats. Even if your descent or technical terrain mellows out briefly, you should stay standing and be on the pedals until it either A) you climb again or B) it flattens out and is mellow for an extended period.

    Why manufacturers put a silly in the middle position makes zero sense to me. There is no middle ground when it comes to proper fit and proper technique. ATMO...
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  24. #374
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    I like the middle position when descending less technical terrain, or descending fast on smooth terrain. I also use it while pedaling really techy terrain either climbing or sorta flat.

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  25. #375
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattsavage View Post
    I think you're missing the point of dropper posts... If the post is dropped, that means you're descending or navigating technical terrain and should not be seated, ever. Pedal standing up. When it's raised, you're either climbing or spinning it out on the flats. Even if your descent or technical terrain mellows out briefly, you should stay standing and be on the pedals until it either A) you climb again or B) it flattens out and is mellow for an extended period.

    Why manufacturers put a silly in the middle position makes zero sense to me. There is no middle ground when it comes to proper fit and proper technique. ATMO...
    Maybe you should ride the way you want to and the rest of us will ride the way we should.

    But thanks for trying to tell me how to ride like you.
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  26. #376
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    Quote Originally Posted by TwoTone View Post
    Maybe you should ride the way you want to and the rest of us will ride the way we should.

    But thanks for trying to tell me how to ride like you.
    TwoTone, I think Matt came off a bit strong, however I think he makes a good point, and that is why have a middle position. I use the middle position a lot because my usual terrain is quite technical and up-down up-down and I don't have time to be constantly changing seat positions. However when I ride Colo there are long assents and descents, giving to using the top and bottom seat position much more.
    The middle position allows me to still get behind and also gives a platform for climbs, but it IS a compromise, in that it not ideal in either (descend/ascend) but that's the way it is.

  27. #377
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    Re: Specialized Command Post Blacklite

    Quote Originally Posted by TwoTone View Post
    Might as well post here.

    Anyone have a 75mm that wants to trade for 100mm one? The 100 is too long for my new frame.
    I have a 75mm giant dropper post that i would trade. 75mm was to short for me

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  28. #378
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    Quote Originally Posted by retrofred View Post
    I have a 75mm giant dropper post that i would trade. 75mm was to short for me

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    No thanks, Blacklite for Blacklite
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  29. #379
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattsavage View Post
    I think you're missing the point of dropper posts... If the post is dropped, that means you're descending or navigating technical terrain and should not be seated, ever.
    Have you ever done any downhill riding?
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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  30. #380
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    Re: Specialized Command Post Blacklite

    Quote Originally Posted by TwoTone View Post
    No thanks, Blacklite for Blacklite
    Oh no worries. Wasn't sure which you had cause of all the people started talking about all different brands.

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  31. #381
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    i there any manual on the service IR version of coommand post?
    standart can be fount on the youtube
    but ir, im not shure how to dissasemle it

  32. #382
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    Well just had a broken collet. Even though I'm under warrantee still (11 months) Spec will NOT replace it.

    Specialize SUCKS... they will not cover a broken collet under warrantee saying it's a "wear and tear item" (like those holes don't severely weakens the post!) nor will they sell the shop the $18 replacement part. You have to send it in and pay >$90 for service. LAME on a $300 item. never buy spec again. Might have to go back to Gravity Dropper (if only the cable routing was better) who's CS was amazing in replacing a broken shaft no questions asked for me.

  33. #383
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    Quote Originally Posted by adumesny View Post
    Well just had a broken collet. Even though I'm under warrantee still (11 months) Spec will NOT replace it.
    That sucks!

    Maybe I should sell mine before it craters.

  34. #384
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    Quote Originally Posted by adumesny View Post
    Well just had a broken collet. Even though I'm under warrantee still (11 months) Spec will NOT replace it.

    Specialize SUCKS... they will not cover a broken collet under warrantee saying it's a "wear and tear item" (like those holes don't severely weakens the post!) nor will they sell the shop the $18 replacement part. You have to send it in and pay >$90 for service. LAME on a $300 item. never buy spec again. Might have to go back to Gravity Dropper (if only the cable routing was better) who's CS was amazing in replacing a broken shaft no questions asked for me.
    That's and the fact so many Non upgradable parts + their Business practices is why Specialized will never get another dime from me, Other than that I love My Stumpy LOL
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  35. #385
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rakuman View Post
    That's and the fact so many Non upgradable parts + their Business practices is why Specialized will never get another dime from me, Other than that I love My Stumpy LOL
    Good friend has a Spec (I ride a Mojo HD with Ibis amazing CS) which he loves but not when it comes times to replace anything on it. Spec doesn't provide any parts it seems (only complete repair) and even the bolts are non standard threads pitch!... he HATES Spec now.

    Reading this long thread looks like some people have this break repeatedly... why wouldn't it after all - looks like a weak design and leaves a bad taste in my mouth as they expect us to spend $90 every couple years with 'wear and tear' BS... It's a design flaw.

  36. #386
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    Quote Originally Posted by cka3o4nuk View Post
    hi people!
    is it safe to use 30.9 seatpost with shim to 31.6
    Yes but if going in a carbon frame make sure it won't void warranty. That's why I needed to just get the next size up. BTW - someone saw my previous post and got in touch, got my post,its all good!

  37. #387
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    Can I insert cable housing into remote lever?

    Quote Originally Posted by pwu_1 View Post
    I wrote about the same issue with the noodle a while back.
    Removing the noodle was like night and day difference for me. When I got the dropper for my other bike I didn't even bother with the noodle.
    I took out my noodle and put the cable housing straight into the remote lever. I filed the end of my cable housing. This won't damage my lever, right? Thanks Bill

  38. #388
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    I just replace my blacklite with the latest version with the new head clamp, went from 100 to 125. The lever action is a huge improvement. Much lighter and does not disrupt riding. The new head is an improvement, and angle range was not an issue as it was on the enduro that I tested. The new seat clamp is not acting up and does not need crazy torque and wiggling to stay in place.

    But the problem now is that my frame has too long seatpost, and 125 middle position is too high, even when the post is slammed all the way in. I have no idea how this happens since with the 100 I had more than an inch exposed post above the seat tube.

  39. #389
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    So my 2012 Command Post Blacklite is no longer locking in the lowest position. It will lock in the middle position. Is this an easy fix?

  40. #390
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    Re: Specialized Command Post Blacklite

    Quote Originally Posted by toyotatacomaTRD View Post
    So my 2012 Command Post Blacklite is no longer locking in the lowest position. It will lock in the middle position. Is this an easy fix?
    Sounds like something is jammed in the lower groove.
    Disassembly time...

  41. #391
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    Quote Originally Posted by toyotatacomaTRD View Post
    So my 2012 Command Post Blacklite is no longer locking in the lowest position. It will lock in the middle position. Is this an easy fix?
    If it's locking at the mid and top position then it doesn't sound like a broken Colette (which many of us had) but something is maybe limiting the down travel - make sure the shaft lock is tight all the way and not longer which may prevent full travel down.

  42. #392
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    Quote Originally Posted by adumesny View Post
    If it's locking at the mid and top position then it doesn't sound like a broken Colette (which many of us had) but something is maybe limiting the down travel - make sure the shaft lock is tight all the way and not longer which may prevent full travel down.
    My experience as exactly that, actually. Broken collet with one of the broken pieces at the bottom inside preventing full down travel, so the post's shaft wouldn't quite reach the lowest lock point. The upper position worked ok as my collet was still intact enough to work. IT was just one broken piece. Sent to Spec to fix.

  43. #393
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    I ended up fixing the post from not locking into the bottom position by loosening the cable. The post had been on for 2+ years, I'd never adjusted the cable in that time. I was really surprised it fixed it. Thanks to all who offered suggestions.

  44. #394
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    Quote Originally Posted by toyotatacomaTRD View Post
    I ended up fixing the post from not locking into the bottom position by loosening the cable.
    good it was a simple fix.

    Update on my broken colette - took almost 2 months (always delayed 'another 3 weeks', etc...) to get the spare part (shop quoted me $18, which must have been their price as I was charged $36) as apparently Spec keeps them for their warrantee department !! (didn't want to spend ~$75-90 sending it in and have it break again). Taking it off was a PAIN as they use red lockit and the grove is very small. Neighbor mechanic didn't want to give up, and together with a torch to melt the lockit and eventually a regular plier (didn't care about damaging the colette as a flat key didn't have enough grip) we got it off... super hard with 2 people!

    Tired of waiting so long, I bought a used blacklit cheap which was almost impossible to open ! (not sure why they didn't keep the bolt pattern of the original and have it rounded now) to make sure the colette wasn't broken (didn't want to double my problem). Now I have a spare one for my DH bike in case my main one acts (the inside is the same between the 2 sizes 30.9 and 31.6 I now have).

    Been told to NOT let it slam on the way up as that is what breaks the colette. My cable is intentionally short so it slows it down near the end (adjust your air pressure as well) so it just barely makes it to the top, else use your legs/butt to slow it down.
    Hopefully it will last longer this time... The blacklight is definitely an improvement (nicer remote with regular cable, easy disconnect at the seat, etc...

  45. #395
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    I wanted to share my experience with the broken collet issue.

    First though, I should mention that I've been using this post for 2.5 years with no issues at all. I took it apart twice during that time for cleaning/maintenance (done by me, not a shop).

    A few weeks ago I experienced the same issue described by a few others here where the post would not lock into the lowest position. It would still lock in the top and middle positions, however. I pulled it apart to take a look and this is what I found:

    Specialized Command Post Blacklite-blacklite-broken-collet.jpg

    I took the Blacklite to the local Specialized dealer where I bought it. They had not seen this issue before, but they called Specialized and confirmed they could order the part in and repair in-house. The quote was $25 for the part, and they said it would arrive in 4-5 days. The part got there on time, but... the shop didn't realize they needed a special tool to remove/install the collet. They called me and apologized for the oversight, and said they would order the tool and it should be there in 3-4 days. They called 4 days later saying my post was fixed and ready to go.

    Overall, I was very happy with the process. I expected the shop to charge a little for labor, but the total was only $25 + tax. Not bad! And total turn around time was less than 10 days.

    One more thing, since I already had the post off the bike, I decided to convert my old SLX front shifter into the dropper remote lever (I run a 1x10 drivetrain). I found a few threads on here detailing the process. I haven't taken it out on a proper ride yet, but around the neighborhood it felt great! Much better than the Spec. remote. Really looking forward to this upgrade.

  46. #396
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    Quote Originally Posted by lunchwagon View Post
    I wanted to share my experience with the broken collet issue.
    You are very lucky and have a good local Spec shop, because I had to wait 7 weeks to get the part (after repeated calls, Spec was out but eventually used their repair department supply, I had 2 shops try to get it!) and was originally quote $18 (ended up being cost so $36+tax) or $80+ to send in for service. It was a real PITA to replace it as they use red lockit (need blow torch, at least on the original model) and you have a very small grove to unscrew it. Very lucky your shop didn't charge you labor either as I almost gave up after couple hours trying to get it off with 2 people.

  47. #397
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    Quote Originally Posted by adumesny View Post
    You are very lucky and have a good local Spec shop
    I agree. I've been following this thread and was aware of your experience before my collet broke. I was not hopeful and didn't expect it to go so well. But when it did, I thought I should share my story so folks know it's worth giving it a go with their LBS. I'm not a Specialized fanboy (ride a Santa Cruz currently) and rarely purchase from this shop, so it's not like they were doing a favor for a loyal customer. The post was purchased there originally though, as they were the only place locally with stock.

  48. #398
    mtbr member
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    Hi to all. I'm new in the forum and I'm writing here because I'd like to have from you a help... I've just received m blacklite seat post from the assistance but they forget to put in the bag some component : one of these is the one that fit with the cable and you match with the trigger. is there a possibility to buy it somewhere? Anybody know the exact name of that particular? I know I've been kind of confusing, I'm sorry for that (and for my English too...)

  49. #399
    Armature speller
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    Re: Specialized Command Post Blacklite

    Quote Originally Posted by lunchwagon View Post
    One more thing, since I already had the post off the bike, I decided to convert my old SLX front shifter into the dropper remote lever (I run a 1x10 drivetrain). I found a few threads on here detailing the process. I haven't taken it out on a proper ride yet, but around the neighborhood it felt great! Much better than the Spec. remote. Really looking forward to this upgrade.
    I'm yet to take mine on a "proper" off road ride but just short rides around the streets makes me think this out the best way to do it too. A much more natural feel.

  50. #400
    mtbr member
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    Oct 2014
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    Hi,
    My son has a command post on a recently purchased Stumpy expert,
    the dropper works in all three positions fine, then randomly drops a small amount(maybe an inch or two) from its fully extended position when riding. press the lever and it pops up again.
    on a ride it can happen quite a few times, ride for a mile or so no problems, then it goes again.
    the couple of times he's rode it its been near 0-+3c.
    Any advise please?
    thanks in advance.

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