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  1. #301
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    Quote Originally Posted by mestapho View Post
    If it's not the tension in the cable, it's the post itself, I can guarantee it.
    Take it to a Spec. dealer and have it warrantied.
    No warranty unfortunately. So it's not user fixable? Oh well.
    I'll drop off it off at dealer to be fixed then.

    Thanks.

  2. #302
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    Anybody else find that activating the lever on the command post is difficult? I'm finding im having to apply quite a bit of deliberate pressure to the lever and concentrate on it that it means I'm half way down the hill before it drops. Need something you just touch intuitively really. Have seen the lever on Cubes which looks quite neat. Any suggestions?

  3. #303
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    Old cables and housing maybe? Mine gets a bit stiff when I've neglected my maintenance.

  4. #304
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    Hi, no its brand new. It just doesn't feel like a natural action to make. It need a deliberate long push with the thumb and really you'd just want to flick it in an instant

  5. #305
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    Are you using the noodle? If so try taking it out.

  6. #306
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    yes i am. ok thanks. will give it a go.

  7. #307
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    Oh, well I have no suggestions if it's new. Maybe ride it for a bit and see if you adapt. I personally would not like an instant flick activation. That could cause a nasty accident given how quickly the post slams up.

  8. #308
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    Specialized Command Post Blacklite

    With both of my command posts, there is a lot to be said for setting up the cable tension using the trim adjustment. That's where you dial in the activation threshold, whether it be instant, or deeper in the throw of the lever. Also notice there is a difference depending on where my butt is fore and aft on the saddle. There's a definite sweet spot that equates to seamless activation

  9. #309
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    Yup, IMO the required lever throw and force to actuate lever are the achilles heel of the Blacklite post. Tried all kinds of things concerning the lever force (removing noodle, using different kinds of cable & housing combos, which helped somewhat, but I think these are the 2 biggest inherent design weaknesses (remote lever throw and force) of this post. Other than that it's a great remote dropper post and reliability (at least for my post) has been excellent with no issues in 1.5 years.

  10. #310
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    Yep, great post, lame level.
    Another issue with the lever is that it does not fit well on the bar with mainstream shifters/brakes. I was looking for alternative levers from other posts, but they are hard to come by.
    Replacing the noodle with a straighter one (less curve) made it workable.

  11. #311
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    The lever in my bike stays too far inside so its hard to reach with the thumb, I will probably have to get rid of the gear indicator in my shifter.

  12. #312
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    Mine started to work again! Don't ask my why, probably the right sun/star/moon alignment + a favourable horoscope!

    Geeeezus these dropper post are NOT the most reliable thing to come to mountain bikes. They all suck in one way or another. BUT once you ride with them you're *ucked. You have to have one all the time...

  13. #313
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    Has anyone tried using a KS remote lever with the blacklite? I'm thinking of trying this to reduce interference with the front shifter, and I already use ODI grips. I usually run a 1x10 setup so interference isn't an issue, but occasionally I go back to 2x10 for very long rides with steep climbs.

    Also, my post has been going strong for 1.5 years with no issues. I ride fairly hard and weigh 215 lbs.

  14. #314
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    Quote Originally Posted by lunchwagon View Post
    Has anyone tried using a KS remote lever with the blacklite? I'm thinking of trying this to reduce interference with the front shifter, and I already use ODI grips. I usually run a 1x10 setup so interference isn't an issue, but occasionally I go back to 2x10 for very long rides with steep climbs.

    Also, my post has been going strong for 1.5 years with no issues. I ride fairly hard and weigh 215 lbs.
    I was considering trying this on my 1st edition command post, since it seems only a matter of time before the original lever/pivot will break. The KS lever though, was kind of expensive so I haven't taken the jump yet, and my original still works. In due time, in due time...

  15. #315
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    Problem. I took mine apart for the first time today because the action wasn't smooth and everything seemed dry. While lubing up...hehe, I accidentally slid the seal collar all the way to the bottom of the post internals and now I can't get it slide back up. I had the white washer out and I think something is catching the lip at that spot. I feel like an idiot. Something is absolutely stopping it with force. Any ideas? Suggestions?

    Name calling is perfectly acceptable along with suggestions.
    The cake is a lie.

  16. #316
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    Do you mean the collet (the part that expands and engages the 3 preset positions) has come out the bottom of the post? If this is the case, does the lever (at the top of the post) not allow the collet to retract? Again, if so, push up on the center part that slides inside the collet and see if that retracts it.

  17. #317
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    Quote Originally Posted by KThaxton View Post
    Do you mean the collet (the part that expands and engages the 3 preset positions) has come out the bottom of the post? If this is the case, does the lever (at the top of the post) not allow the collet to retract? Again, if so, push up on the center part that slides inside the collet and see if that retracts it.
    After thinking through what I posted, it's impossible for the collet to come out the bottom as long as it is still attached! D'oh!

    Maybe conincidentally your internal cable just broke so you can't disengage the collet? My cable just broke two weeks ago and I could not change the height at all.

  18. #318
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    First off, thanks for helping KThaxton.

    I had a busy weekend with an engagement party to attend and other things going on. The issue I'm having has nothing to do with the collet. The collet is intact and so is the cable. The problem is with the collar wand the seals that you unscrew to actually take the post apart. I greased the inside of the post and slid that seal up and down to get it working smoothly. With my hands all greased up, I slipped and now the collar slid all the way to the bottom of the post. It won't come off completely because the collet won't let it.

    But now it's stuck there. I can't get it to slide back up. And I'm pretty sure it's FUBAR. My last idea was to thread it back in the post in a padded vice. Then I clamped the lever down to retract the collet so it would be free to move, and I taped the top of the post with a mallet. Still won't budge. Whatever the seal is on the post, it's good. I can't get it to slide back up into position. I'm guess I have to send it off to Specialized to wait weeks on end and pay them to fix it. I'm debating on if it's actually worth it or not.

    Specialized Command Post Blacklite-p4pb8292880-copy.jpg
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  19. #319
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    Quote Originally Posted by kubikeman View Post
    First off, thanks for helping KThaxton.

    I had a busy weekend with an engagement party to attend and other things going on. The issue I'm having has nothing to do with the collet. The collet is intact and so is the cable. The problem is with the collar wand the seals that you unscrew to actually take the post apart. I greased the inside of the post and slid that seal up and down to get it working smoothly. With my hands all greased up, I slipped and now the collar slid all the way to the bottom of the post. It won't come off completely because the collet won't let it.

    But now it's stuck there. I can't get it to slide back up. And I'm pretty sure it's FUBAR. My last idea was to thread it back in the post in a padded vice. Then I clamped the lever down to retract the collet so it would be free to move, and I taped the top of the post with a mallet. Still won't budge. Whatever the seal is on the post, it's good. I can't get it to slide back up into position. I'm guess I have to send it off to Specialized to wait weeks on end and pay them to fix it. I'm debating on if it's actually worth it or not.

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    Sorry to say, I'm pretty sure you'll need to send that post in for service and new seal. I think the problem is that the tolerance for the seal is so tight that its basically stuck in that channel. Even if you manage to take the collet off the seal would still be stuck in that channel. I think you'll pretty much have to wreck the seal to get it out of the channel.

  20. #320
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    Quote Originally Posted by pwu_1 View Post
    Sorry to say, I'm pretty sure you'll need to send that post in for service and new seal. I think the problem is that the tolerance for the seal is so tight that its basically stuck in that channel. Even if you manage to take the collet off the seal would still be stuck in that channel. I think you'll pretty much have to wreck the seal to get it out of the channel.
    I was afraid of that. I'll bring it to my local shop and see if I can get a quote from Spesh. I just hope they don't want some ridiculous amount.
    The cake is a lie.

  21. #321
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    While you had it apart, did you clean and relube? It's possible that some old, contaminated grease may be keeping the collets from fully locking into place. (pinkbike has a decent article on cleaning/relubing the blacklite: Tech Tuesday - Specialized Command Post Blacklite Maintenance - Pinkbike)

    Aside from that, the post itself might not be fully extending, prohibiting the collets from fully locking in. You could try physically pulling up on the saddle before a steep climb to see if it's possible to get a fuller extension and eliminate the slipping. If so, you might just add air pressure to ensure full extension, and/or clean and relube to minimize friction and allow the post to come all the way up.

  22. #322
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    Specialized Command Post Blacklite

    I did the same thing. I was able to force it back up the post. It just takes quite a bit of force.

  23. #323
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    Quote Originally Posted by albeant View Post
    While you had it apart, did you clean and relube? It's possible that some old, contaminated grease may be keeping the collets from fully locking into place. (pinkbike has a decent article on cleaning/relubing the blacklite: Tech Tuesday - Specialized Command Post Blacklite Maintenance - Pinkbike)

    Aside from that, the post itself might not be fully extending, prohibiting the collets from fully locking in. You could try physically pulling up on the saddle before a steep climb to see if it's possible to get a fuller extension and eliminate the slipping. If so, you might just add air pressure to ensure full extension, and/or clean and relube to minimize friction and allow the post to come all the way up.
    I can't even get the post back together. It didn't slip down while I was riding or anything. I had it apart and was cleaning it up. The collar and seal that the first arrow is pointing to (i.e. 'This') slipped down the exposed post and is stuck in the channel that the white split bushing sits in.

    The reason I had it apart was because it wasn't extending without some help now and again. I thought I might have the dreaded broken collet, but turns out the seal was dry and sticky.

    I think when I go home tonight I'm going to set a trap for Murphy. Bastard has been living in my basement for a while now.
    The cake is a lie.

  24. #324
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    Quote Originally Posted by mestapho View Post
    I did the same thing. I was able to force it back up the post. It just takes quite a bit of force.
    Really? I was afraid to hit it too hard with anything. And I definitely don't have the hand strength to do it. Care to elaborate?
    The cake is a lie.

  25. #325
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    Ahhh, I see. I wasn't sure what you meant by "collar", I assumed you mean "collet". So earlier you said you have the "white washer" out, did you mean the white bushing that is near where the collar is now stuck? If so, my guess is that it that the internal seal on the collar is caught in that channel and it is probably a pretty rigid seal and therefore hard to get to slip over the lip. I'd try to get some oil down in the seal to make it as slippery as possible and just keep trying to work it (gently rocking it) back and forth to get one lip over then the next.

  26. #326
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    Quote Originally Posted by kubikeman View Post
    Really? I was afraid to hit it too hard with anything. And I definitely don't have the hand strength to do it. Care to elaborate?
    I forget what I did, but I had the same feeling you did, that I was screwed.

    I think I wrapped it with something to help grip it and just muscled it back into place.

    Try a strap wrench maybe?

  27. #327
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    FWIW, I had the remote for mine self destruct after about four months of use - the axle the lever turns on simply disintegrated. I used a cotter-pin for a while but it wasn't super solid and eventually got more and more sloppy.

    I found a Kind Shock remote kit off eBay and used that and it works better than the Specialized remote ever did, looks better, and fits better with my non-specialized grips, etc. Comes in colors too. Not the least expensive add on for sure, but is a ton better built for sure. The 'noodle' it comes with is MUCH better too, less resistance and more flexible AND once you get the tension dialed in with the barrell adjuster it locks in place.

    Too bad I just discovered some of my collet 'teeth' are broken within the post. Argh.

  28. #328
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    I recently went 1x10 on my bikes and the shifters I bought came in pairs so I had extra left shifters sitting around. They are Shimano XTR shifters with the 2/3 selector. So I opened one up and discovered that you can mod it(not permanent and totally reversible) so that when you push the lower gear selector, it won't go into 2nd or 3rd gear so its basically just like a big lever(upper gear release lever doesn't do anything now. You can push it but nothing happens). I hooked this up to my command post so now the left shifters activates my dropper post. Works so much better than the one that came with the post and looks cleaner too. The only downside is that the shifter weighs like 70 grams more than the lever that came with the post.

  29. #329
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    Thanks bear and pwu - glad to know there are other options for the lever. So far I have had great luck with the stock lever, Teflon cable and noodle I modified for a more gentle curve. I've been riding my CP pretty hard for over a year now and no issues at all. Pretty damn good post IMO.

  30. #330
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    Hi,
    I tried to clean and grease my command post blacklite tonight and I did a very stupid thing. I took the white bushing off and then slid the main seal head into the channel that the bushing was sitting in. Now I can't slide the seal head back up the post(its stuck in the channel). HELP???

  31. #331
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    Did you read the last 10 or so posts?

  32. #332
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    Quote Originally Posted by kubikeman View Post
    Really? I was afraid to hit it too hard with anything. And I definitely don't have the hand strength to do it. Care to elaborate?
    Kubikeman Did you manage to get it back up the post? Any tips? or did you have to send it back to Spec? what was the cost and turnaround time?

  33. #333
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    Quote Originally Posted by muito doido View Post
    Kubikeman Did you manage to get it back up the post? Any tips? or did you have to send it back to Spec? what was the cost and turnaround time?
    Nope. Still in pieces on my workbench. I couldn't get it back together myself. One of these day's I'll have to drop it off at the shop.
    The cake is a lie.

  34. #334
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    Quote Originally Posted by pwu_1 View Post
    I recently went 1x10 on my bikes and the shifters I bought came in pairs so I had extra left shifters sitting around. They are Shimano XTR shifters with the 2/3 selector. So I opened one up and discovered that you can mod it(not permanent and totally reversible) so that when you push the lower gear selector, it won't go into 2nd or 3rd gear so its basically just like a big lever(upper gear release lever doesn't do anything now. You can push it but nothing happens). I hooked this up to my command post so now the left shifters activates my dropper post. Works so much better than the one that came with the post and looks cleaner too. The only downside is that the shifter weighs like 70 grams more than the lever that came with the post.
    Great idea. +reputation. I am doing 1x10 now with XT 780 shifters.
    What do you have to mod in the shifter so it does not lock in 2/3 gears and always jump back to 1?

  35. #335
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    Quote Originally Posted by CrozCountry View Post
    Great idea. +reputation. I am doing 1x10 now with XT 780 shifters.
    What do you have to mod in the shifter so it does not lock in 2/3 gears and always jump back to 1?
    I did the mod on the XTR shifters but I think the XTs should be the same.
    First, you shift up 1 gear to the middle gear. Then you turn the gear selector to point to the 2.
    Take the top and bottom cover off. Once the bottom cover is off, examine the selector pin closely and you should see that the pin can slide out the bottom if you turn it a certain way.
    Turn the pin and slide it all the way out(be careful not to loose the little spring).
    Once the pin is out, hit the top lever to put the gear selector back in the lowest gear(so you can put the cable in).
    Then, you'll need to figure out a way to push the spring loaded arm back and away. Then you slide the pin back and once the pin is back in position, it should hold the arm away from the detent and you will be able to push the bottom lever and it won't lock in to any gear.
    Then you just put everything back together.

  36. #336
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    I've owned my Command Post Blacklite for a little over a year now with no service required at all.

    I've done a write up here for anyone who's on the fence about purchasing one.

    Specialized Command Post Blacklite
    08 Enduro: '12 Van RC2, Push DHX 5 coil, Flow EX, Hope m4, 750mm bar, Blacklite Post.

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  37. #337
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    Quote Originally Posted by camarosam View Post
    I've owned my Command Post Blacklite for a little over a year now with no service required at all.

    I've done a write up here for anyone who's on the fence about purchasing one.

    Specialized Command Post Blacklite
    Very nice write-up Sam. My history has been the same as yours, except that I found the seat angle bolt needs to be torqued per spec or it will slip. Not a big deal, but if you just use your std hex wrench, you probably won't get it tight enough.

  38. #338
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simplemind View Post
    Very nice write-up Sam. My history has been the same as yours, except that I found the seat angle bolt needs to be torqued per spec or it will slip. Not a big deal, but if you just use your std hex wrench, you probably won't get it tight enough.
    Thank you.

    Yeah I had the same problem with mine, but I always torque everything one my bike anyways. I figure for how much you spend on this stuff you might as well take it seriously and take care of it.
    08 Enduro: '12 Van RC2, Push DHX 5 coil, Flow EX, Hope m4, 750mm bar, Blacklite Post.

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  39. #339
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    I've had my Blacklite post for ~10 months and up until the last few rides, I hadn't had any issues with it. Starting a few rides ago, I started having issues with the post returning from the cruiser position to the power position. I figured I could tear it down, clean it up, re-grease and be good to go.

    So tonight, I tore it down, cleaned everything, re-greased with slick honey everywhere, put it back together, reset the height on the cable clamp, and hoped for the best. Sadly, I'm still having the same issue where it doesn't want to return from cruiser to power position. It returns just fine when going from all the way lowered to power position, but in order to get it up from cruiser I have to either lower it all the way down and return or pull up on it or bump it.

    When I had it apart, I took a look at the collett and didn't notice anything wrong there and didn't see anything else visually wrong. What else can I do to diagnose this? Any suggestions greatly appreciated!

  40. #340
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    Quote Originally Posted by wal View Post
    I've had my Blacklite post for ~10 months and up until the last few rides, I hadn't had any issues with it. Starting a few rides ago, I started having issues with the post returning from the cruiser position to the power position. I figured I could tear it down, clean it up, re-grease and be good to go.

    So tonight, I tore it down, cleaned everything, re-greased with slick honey everywhere, put it back together, reset the height on the cable clamp, and hoped for the best. Sadly, I'm still having the same issue where it doesn't want to return from cruiser to power position. It returns just fine when going from all the way lowered to power position, but in order to get it up from cruiser I have to either lower it all the way down and return or pull up on it or bump it.

    When I had it apart, I took a look at the collett and didn't notice anything wrong there and didn't see anything else visually wrong. What else can I do to diagnose this? Any suggestions greatly appreciated!
    I would try the following:
    1) check the seat collar and make sure its not too tight. I've had that issue with my santa Cruz collar. I changed to a Specialized and torqued to the specified torque and no more problems. Also have used the Salsa seat collar with not problems
    2) How is the return speed. Maybe up the pressure slightly to see if it helps
    3) Adjust the barrel adjuster to put more tension on the cable. Maybe your collett is not releasing all the way in the cruiser position.
    4) You greased the shaft with it extended right? I usually just spread some grease around while the seatpost is fully extended, then cycle it a few times and wipe off any excess grease at the seal.

  41. #341
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    Quote Originally Posted by pwu_1 View Post
    2) How is the return speed. Maybe up the pressure slightly to see if it helps
    any excess grease at the seal.
    This is the first thing I'd look at.

  42. #342
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    Remember pressure is set extended
    OG Ripley v2
    Carver 420 TI

  43. #343
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    Hey guys. I'm having the same problem. From the fully low position it will only pop up to the middle position. I have to grab and pull the seatpost to get it up to the power position. I greased it down and cleaned it up using the video. All looks good. I'll have to check the seat post collar tonight. I did notice that the seal head was hard to move up and down the shaft. Took quite bit of effort. The grease didn't seem to help it all that much. I've used this seatpost for about 3 months now. Pressure is set to 40 psi.

  44. #344
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    Re: Specialized Command Post Blacklite

    Quote Originally Posted by mmanuel09 View Post
    Hey guys. I'm having the same problem. From the fully low position it will only pop up to the middle position. I have to grab and pull the seatpost to get it up to the power position. I greased it down and cleaned it up using the video. All looks good. I'll have to check the seat post collar tonight. I did notice that the seal head was hard to move up and down the shaft. Took quite bit of effort. The grease didn't seem to help it all that much. I've used this seatpost for about 3 months now. Pressure is set to 40 psi.
    I'm going to have to clean and tee lube mine to, I also have to pull it up. I'll post if it helped after I do it.

    Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk

  45. #345
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    Quote Originally Posted by innovator8 View Post
    I'm going to have to clean and tee lube mine to, I also have to pull it up. I'll post if it helped after I do it.

    Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk
    Did you check the seat collar? I had some issues with the collar that came on my Blur LT. Switched it to a different one and torqued to spec(I think about 5nm) and no more issues with it not returning all the way.
    Should be easy to check, just loosen the collar a little bit at a time and then check to see if you can get the post to return all the way.

    Also, if you decide to take apart the post to grease the inside it, DO NOT slide the seal past the white plastic bushing(especially if the bushing has been removed). Don't ask me how I know, haha

  46. #346
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    Yeah keep me in the look after you clean it. I'll have to check the collar tonight to see if that helps.

  47. #347
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    Specialized Command Post Blacklite

    I've had mine for a year and a half, it's worked well. Last winter, I got rid of the grease and replaced with Mobil 1 per specialized cold weather recommendation even though i live in NorCal and ditched the stoopid noodle- it's worked flawlessly since. I ride at least 4x/week and weigh 220lbs as much as I'd like to get a hydraulic it's hard to justify until this one breaks

  48. #348
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    The new version has very light level pull, even though it looks like the same lever with the same noodle. It must be something in the post itself, like a spring change.

  49. #349
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    Quote Originally Posted by mastrgrdr View Post
    I just picked up a brand new 125mm Blacklight but I haven't installed it yet. I have a 2013 Stumpjumper FSR and a 2013 Rockhopper 29er. I was thinking of buying a 2nd lever/cable and swapping the post between the bikes, but I'm not sure how difficult that would be and if the cable needs to be setup perfect or what. Any thoughts on if it is something that would be easy to do, or not worth the hassle?
    Not worth the hassle... Pony up for a complete post.
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  50. #350
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    Quote Originally Posted by mastrgrdr View Post
    I just picked up a brand new 125mm Blacklight but I haven't installed it yet. I have a 2013 Stumpjumper FSR and a 2013 Rockhopper 29er. I was thinking of buying a 2nd lever/cable and swapping the post between the bikes, but I'm not sure how difficult that would be and if the cable needs to be setup perfect or what. Any thoughts on if it is something that would be easy to do, or not worth the hassle?
    There are some considerations. For correct seatpost operation, as long as you get a new lever, cable, housing, and, the little pill thingy for the cable and set it up on the other bike, you would be able to swap the post and have the post operate correctly.

    The other consideration is the seat fore/aft position and angle on the 2 bikes. If you can take the post from 1 bike to the other bike without changing the seat angle/position then I would say it would work fine. If you have to adjust the angle/position, etc, then I would say you should just get another post. I think it would be too much hassle to be changing seat position/angle every time you want to ride a different bike.

  51. #351
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    I strongly agree - it is a fantastic post from my 2 years experience with it with no issues, but once you get it set and dialed in I wouldn't want to mess with it unless I had to. The little barrel nut that holds the cable just doesn't seem like something that should be tightened/loosened on a regular basis.

  52. #352
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    After 18 months my 125mm Blacklite went kaput mid-ride. Won't hold position any more, smooth motion is gone, and it feels jammed up. I assume the collet is broken. Oddly enough I could not get it open even though I have a good strap wrench. So I took it in to the shop, and am now switching a single seatpost between two bikes.

    The post has had no problems prior to this.

    The good news was that the bike was still rideable with the busted dropper post; it went down to the bottom position and I just raised the post.

  53. #353
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    Quote Originally Posted by mestapho View Post
    Well, broke a piece off of the collet again.
    It'll be going in for warranty repair for the second time for the same issue.
    Think I'm switching to a Gravity Dropper now.
    Did they actually cover it under warranty? I was just told this morning that it is a "wear item" the and that I would have to pay for the repair even though the post is less than a year old.
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  54. #354
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    Quote Originally Posted by rollertoaster View Post
    Did they actually cover it under warranty? I was just told this morning that it is a "wear item" the and that I would have to pay for the repair even though the post is less than a year old.
    Yep they warrantied mine. I sold it before ever using it again.

  55. #355
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    Quote Originally Posted by rollertoaster View Post
    Did they actually cover it under warranty? I was just told this morning that it is a "wear item" the and that I would have to pay for the repair even though the post is less than a year old.
    Damn that sucks. How much is the repair going to cost?

  56. #356
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    They want $75 to repair and ship it. I'm not gonna do it. I'll just use another post on the bike.

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  57. #357
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    So it's maintenance time on my blacklite. I made the mistake on my old (gen 1) command post of removing the white bushing and getting the seal head stuck in the channel. Had to send to specialized to fix that one. I want to clean the blacklite and lube the seal head with a lighter lube for better cold weather action. If I keep the white bushing in place, would the sealhead be able to slide over this to be removed, cleaned, re-lubed, and reinstalled?

    Or is it pretty much just not a good idea to remove the seal head from the post without have specialized's special seal head reinstallation tool?

  58. #358
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    Hey folks, just resurecting this thread. ive had a blacklite post for about a year now.. i bought it used and its never really functioned properly. wouldnt return from the cruiser position to top. Now the 90 degree noodle has snapped.. ive read on here about peeps doing away with it. has anyone got any pics of an install where theyve done away with the noodle? also what cable would be suitable to replace the standard stuff with?

  59. #359
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    Re: Specialized Command Post Blacklite

    Quote Originally Posted by turbo1397 View Post
    Hey folks, just resurecting this thread. ive had a blacklite post for about a year now.. i bought it used and its never really functioned properly. wouldnt return from the cruiser position to top. Now the 90 degree noodle has snapped.. ive read on here about peeps doing away with it. has anyone got any pics of an install where theyve done away with the noodle? also what cable would be suitable to replace the standard stuff with?
    Grease too thick? Air pressure too low?

    It's a normal shifter cable.

  60. #360
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    Quote Originally Posted by turbo1397 View Post
    Hey folks, just resurecting this thread. ive had a blacklite post for about a year now.. i bought it used and its never really functioned properly. wouldnt return from the cruiser position to top. Now the 90 degree noodle has snapped.. ive read on here about peeps doing away with it. has anyone got any pics of an install where theyve done away with the noodle? also what cable would be suitable to replace the standard stuff with?
    No pictures handy but for the noodle removal, you would just remove it and replace the 2 piece housing with one continuous run from the lever to the seatpost. Basically it would look like a derailleur installation.
    As for the inner cable, any mtb derailleur cable will work fine. Since you want to remove the noodle, you can probably just go get a replacement housing/cable.
    Something like this or similar
    Clarks Stainless Steel Universal Derailleur Cables -

  61. #361
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    I replaced mine with these. Easy swap over... remove old noodle, replace with this: U Z Bike Stainless "Flexie" Flexible V Brake Noodle 2pcs Set Black | eBay

    I think they are the same thing KS uses with their posts.

  62. #362
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    So what is the best kind of grease to lube up these things? Mine functioned great for a for like 9 months with the stock grease in it, and once it started to get stick, I took it apart and cleaned and lubed with wheel bearing grease and it required cleaning again after just a couple of months.

    Thanks

  63. #363
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    I believe Slick Honey is the preferred choice and that's what I have used. But, I wouldn't say it that is the only choice.

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  64. #364
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    Mine requires a few drops of stanchion lube every 3 or 4 rides, or whenever I wash the bike. Otherwise it gets slow to return and eventually won't go to the top position. When it was a year old I took it apart and re-greased it with bearing grease. I still need to use the stanchion lube.

    No complaints, as it otherwise works flawlessly.

  65. #365
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    I've had zero issues with mine over two years now, riding through a pair of stoopid wet Northwest Winters included. It's one of the few bike parts I've paid full retail on (more for warranty piece of mind...) and I'm about to do it again as my new frame takes a 31.6 so my Chameleon SS just got a dropper post....I'm going to do the flexy stainless noodle repalcement. One thing that really helped me especially in the PNWet was switching the cable out to a Jagwire teflon coated cable. I'm sure any teflon coated shifter cable will work, but it really helped my unit.

    In the end I feel better using a mechanical unit that can be raised to full extension if something goes sideways vs. hydraulic fail drop done.

    On that note - anyone selling a 31.6 sized Command Post get in touch, I'm in the market for one now and less reluctant to buy used now that they've got a history and the known bugs and fixes are out there. Cash in hand $$$, you selling? I'm buying!

  66. #366
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    hi people!
    is it safe to use 30.9 seatpost with shim to 31.6

  67. #367
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    Quote Originally Posted by cka3o4nuk View Post
    hi people!
    is it safe to use 30.9 seatpost with shim to 31.6
    I've done it without problem.

  68. #368
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    Is there any way to adjust the travel of the post? For example, I have a 125mm post. The cruiser position is a 35mm drop, the descender position is another 90mm drop. What I would like to do is make the descender position only another 35mm drop OR make the cruiser a +/- 50mm drop and leave descender at the bottom. My problem is that I am a tall rider (6'4" 34" inseam) on an XL frame. The cruiser isn't quite low enough for me descending technical stuff. The descender is WAY too low and is basically not useable for me as it makes pedaling extremely inefficient.

    I might be spoiled as I came off of a KS LEV which has infinite adjustability. That got sold with my old bike. That was good, except with infinite adjustability I found I was always fiddling with the top setting between fully extended and "cruiser-like" psoition.
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  69. #369
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    Well, I'm sure you could if you were a machinist and could machine an additional groove inside for the collett to engage.

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  70. #370
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    Quote Originally Posted by LaCostaClydesdale View Post
    Is there any way to adjust the travel of the post? For example, I have a 125mm post. The cruiser position is a 35mm drop, the descender position is another 90mm drop. What I would like to do is make the descender position only another 35mm drop OR make the cruiser a +/- 50mm drop and leave descender at the bottom. My problem is that I am a tall rider (6'4" 34" inseam) on an XL frame. The cruiser isn't quite low enough for me descending technical stuff. The descender is WAY too low and is basically not useable for me as it makes pedaling extremely inefficient.

    I might be spoiled as I came off of a KS LEV which has infinite adjustability. That got sold with my old bike. That was good, except with infinite adjustability I found I was always fiddling with the top setting between fully extended and "cruiser-like" psoition.
    I need a new dropper and I'm debating another Blacklite or a Gravity dropper. I don't like infinite ones. The interesting thing I found with the GD is that you can chose to have the middle position be a 1 inch or 2 inch drop. I've been thinking that a 2 inch drop might be nice.

    If I can't find someone to trade blacklites with I may go with GD.
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  71. #371
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    Droppers....

    Quote Originally Posted by TwoTone View Post
    I need a new dropper and I'm debating another Blacklite or a Gravity dropper. I don't like infinite ones. The interesting thing I found with the GD is that you can chose to have the middle position be a 1 inch or 2 inch drop. I've been thinking that a 2 inch drop might be nice.

    If I can't find someone to trade blacklites with I may go with GD.
    Go with a 1". 2" is way too much - I know it doesn't sound like it, but it is.

    Both are great posts. I've been on GDs since they first came out. Durability is second to none. I like the Spec 'cause I like set back posts. The GD doesn't really look all that cool either.

  72. #372
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    Might as well post here.

    Anyone have a 75mm that wants to trade for 100mm one? The 100 is too long for my new frame.
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  73. #373
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    Quote Originally Posted by LaCostaClydesdale View Post
    Is there any way to adjust the travel of the post? For example, I have a 125mm post. The cruiser position is a 35mm drop, the descender position is another 90mm drop. What I would like to do is make the descender position only another 35mm drop OR make the cruiser a +/- 50mm drop and leave descender at the bottom. My problem is that I am a tall rider (6'4" 34" inseam) on an XL frame. The cruiser isn't quite low enough for me descending technical stuff. The descender is WAY too low and is basically not useable for me as it makes pedaling extremely inefficient.

    I might be spoiled as I came off of a KS LEV which has infinite adjustability. That got sold with my old bike. That was good, except with infinite adjustability I found I was always fiddling with the top setting between fully extended and "cruiser-like" psoition.
    I think you're missing the point of dropper posts... If the post is dropped, that means you're descending or navigating technical terrain and should not be seated, ever. Pedal standing up. When it's raised, you're either climbing or spinning it out on the flats. Even if your descent or technical terrain mellows out briefly, you should stay standing and be on the pedals until it either A) you climb again or B) it flattens out and is mellow for an extended period.

    Why manufacturers put a silly in the middle position makes zero sense to me. There is no middle ground when it comes to proper fit and proper technique. ATMO...
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  74. #374
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    I like the middle position when descending less technical terrain, or descending fast on smooth terrain. I also use it while pedaling really techy terrain either climbing or sorta flat.

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  75. #375
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattsavage View Post
    I think you're missing the point of dropper posts... If the post is dropped, that means you're descending or navigating technical terrain and should not be seated, ever. Pedal standing up. When it's raised, you're either climbing or spinning it out on the flats. Even if your descent or technical terrain mellows out briefly, you should stay standing and be on the pedals until it either A) you climb again or B) it flattens out and is mellow for an extended period.

    Why manufacturers put a silly in the middle position makes zero sense to me. There is no middle ground when it comes to proper fit and proper technique. ATMO...
    Maybe you should ride the way you want to and the rest of us will ride the way we should.

    But thanks for trying to tell me how to ride like you.
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  76. #376
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    Quote Originally Posted by TwoTone View Post
    Maybe you should ride the way you want to and the rest of us will ride the way we should.

    But thanks for trying to tell me how to ride like you.
    TwoTone, I think Matt came off a bit strong, however I think he makes a good point, and that is why have a middle position. I use the middle position a lot because my usual terrain is quite technical and up-down up-down and I don't have time to be constantly changing seat positions. However when I ride Colo there are long assents and descents, giving to using the top and bottom seat position much more.
    The middle position allows me to still get behind and also gives a platform for climbs, but it IS a compromise, in that it not ideal in either (descend/ascend) but that's the way it is.

  77. #377
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    Re: Specialized Command Post Blacklite

    Quote Originally Posted by TwoTone View Post
    Might as well post here.

    Anyone have a 75mm that wants to trade for 100mm one? The 100 is too long for my new frame.
    I have a 75mm giant dropper post that i would trade. 75mm was to short for me

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  78. #378
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    Quote Originally Posted by retrofred View Post
    I have a 75mm giant dropper post that i would trade. 75mm was to short for me

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    No thanks, Blacklite for Blacklite
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  79. #379
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattsavage View Post
    I think you're missing the point of dropper posts... If the post is dropped, that means you're descending or navigating technical terrain and should not be seated, ever.
    Have you ever done any downhill riding?
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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  80. #380
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    Re: Specialized Command Post Blacklite

    Quote Originally Posted by TwoTone View Post
    No thanks, Blacklite for Blacklite
    Oh no worries. Wasn't sure which you had cause of all the people started talking about all different brands.

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  81. #381
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    i there any manual on the service IR version of coommand post?
    standart can be fount on the youtube
    but ir, im not shure how to dissasemle it

  82. #382
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    Well just had a broken collet. Even though I'm under warrantee still (11 months) Spec will NOT replace it.

    Specialize SUCKS... they will not cover a broken collet under warrantee saying it's a "wear and tear item" (like those holes don't severely weakens the post!) nor will they sell the shop the $18 replacement part. You have to send it in and pay >$90 for service. LAME on a $300 item. never buy spec again. Might have to go back to Gravity Dropper (if only the cable routing was better) who's CS was amazing in replacing a broken shaft no questions asked for me.

  83. #383
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    Quote Originally Posted by adumesny View Post
    Well just had a broken collet. Even though I'm under warrantee still (11 months) Spec will NOT replace it.
    That sucks!

    Maybe I should sell mine before it craters.

  84. #384
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    Quote Originally Posted by adumesny View Post
    Well just had a broken collet. Even though I'm under warrantee still (11 months) Spec will NOT replace it.

    Specialize SUCKS... they will not cover a broken collet under warrantee saying it's a "wear and tear item" (like those holes don't severely weakens the post!) nor will they sell the shop the $18 replacement part. You have to send it in and pay >$90 for service. LAME on a $300 item. never buy spec again. Might have to go back to Gravity Dropper (if only the cable routing was better) who's CS was amazing in replacing a broken shaft no questions asked for me.
    That's and the fact so many Non upgradable parts + their Business practices is why Specialized will never get another dime from me, Other than that I love My Stumpy LOL
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  85. #385
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rakuman View Post
    That's and the fact so many Non upgradable parts + their Business practices is why Specialized will never get another dime from me, Other than that I love My Stumpy LOL
    Good friend has a Spec (I ride a Mojo HD with Ibis amazing CS) which he loves but not when it comes times to replace anything on it. Spec doesn't provide any parts it seems (only complete repair) and even the bolts are non standard threads pitch!... he HATES Spec now.

    Reading this long thread looks like some people have this break repeatedly... why wouldn't it after all - looks like a weak design and leaves a bad taste in my mouth as they expect us to spend $90 every couple years with 'wear and tear' BS... It's a design flaw.

  86. #386
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    Quote Originally Posted by cka3o4nuk View Post
    hi people!
    is it safe to use 30.9 seatpost with shim to 31.6
    Yes but if going in a carbon frame make sure it won't void warranty. That's why I needed to just get the next size up. BTW - someone saw my previous post and got in touch, got my post,its all good!

  87. #387
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    Can I insert cable housing into remote lever?

    Quote Originally Posted by pwu_1 View Post
    I wrote about the same issue with the noodle a while back.
    Removing the noodle was like night and day difference for me. When I got the dropper for my other bike I didn't even bother with the noodle.
    I took out my noodle and put the cable housing straight into the remote lever. I filed the end of my cable housing. This won't damage my lever, right? Thanks Bill

  88. #388
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    I just replace my blacklite with the latest version with the new head clamp, went from 100 to 125. The lever action is a huge improvement. Much lighter and does not disrupt riding. The new head is an improvement, and angle range was not an issue as it was on the enduro that I tested. The new seat clamp is not acting up and does not need crazy torque and wiggling to stay in place.

    But the problem now is that my frame has too long seatpost, and 125 middle position is too high, even when the post is slammed all the way in. I have no idea how this happens since with the 100 I had more than an inch exposed post above the seat tube.

  89. #389
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    So my 2012 Command Post Blacklite is no longer locking in the lowest position. It will lock in the middle position. Is this an easy fix?

  90. #390
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    Re: Specialized Command Post Blacklite

    Quote Originally Posted by toyotatacomaTRD View Post
    So my 2012 Command Post Blacklite is no longer locking in the lowest position. It will lock in the middle position. Is this an easy fix?
    Sounds like something is jammed in the lower groove.
    Disassembly time...

  91. #391
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    Quote Originally Posted by toyotatacomaTRD View Post
    So my 2012 Command Post Blacklite is no longer locking in the lowest position. It will lock in the middle position. Is this an easy fix?
    If it's locking at the mid and top position then it doesn't sound like a broken Colette (which many of us had) but something is maybe limiting the down travel - make sure the shaft lock is tight all the way and not longer which may prevent full travel down.

  92. #392
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    Quote Originally Posted by adumesny View Post
    If it's locking at the mid and top position then it doesn't sound like a broken Colette (which many of us had) but something is maybe limiting the down travel - make sure the shaft lock is tight all the way and not longer which may prevent full travel down.
    My experience as exactly that, actually. Broken collet with one of the broken pieces at the bottom inside preventing full down travel, so the post's shaft wouldn't quite reach the lowest lock point. The upper position worked ok as my collet was still intact enough to work. IT was just one broken piece. Sent to Spec to fix.

  93. #393
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    I ended up fixing the post from not locking into the bottom position by loosening the cable. The post had been on for 2+ years, I'd never adjusted the cable in that time. I was really surprised it fixed it. Thanks to all who offered suggestions.

  94. #394
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    Quote Originally Posted by toyotatacomaTRD View Post
    I ended up fixing the post from not locking into the bottom position by loosening the cable.
    good it was a simple fix.

    Update on my broken colette - took almost 2 months (always delayed 'another 3 weeks', etc...) to get the spare part (shop quoted me $18, which must have been their price as I was charged $36) as apparently Spec keeps them for their warrantee department !! (didn't want to spend ~$75-90 sending it in and have it break again). Taking it off was a PAIN as they use red lockit and the grove is very small. Neighbor mechanic didn't want to give up, and together with a torch to melt the lockit and eventually a regular plier (didn't care about damaging the colette as a flat key didn't have enough grip) we got it off... super hard with 2 people!

    Tired of waiting so long, I bought a used blacklit cheap which was almost impossible to open ! (not sure why they didn't keep the bolt pattern of the original and have it rounded now) to make sure the colette wasn't broken (didn't want to double my problem). Now I have a spare one for my DH bike in case my main one acts (the inside is the same between the 2 sizes 30.9 and 31.6 I now have).

    Been told to NOT let it slam on the way up as that is what breaks the colette. My cable is intentionally short so it slows it down near the end (adjust your air pressure as well) so it just barely makes it to the top, else use your legs/butt to slow it down.
    Hopefully it will last longer this time... The blacklight is definitely an improvement (nicer remote with regular cable, easy disconnect at the seat, etc...

  95. #395
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    I wanted to share my experience with the broken collet issue.

    First though, I should mention that I've been using this post for 2.5 years with no issues at all. I took it apart twice during that time for cleaning/maintenance (done by me, not a shop).

    A few weeks ago I experienced the same issue described by a few others here where the post would not lock into the lowest position. It would still lock in the top and middle positions, however. I pulled it apart to take a look and this is what I found:

    Specialized Command Post Blacklite-blacklite-broken-collet.jpg

    I took the Blacklite to the local Specialized dealer where I bought it. They had not seen this issue before, but they called Specialized and confirmed they could order the part in and repair in-house. The quote was $25 for the part, and they said it would arrive in 4-5 days. The part got there on time, but... the shop didn't realize they needed a special tool to remove/install the collet. They called me and apologized for the oversight, and said they would order the tool and it should be there in 3-4 days. They called 4 days later saying my post was fixed and ready to go.

    Overall, I was very happy with the process. I expected the shop to charge a little for labor, but the total was only $25 + tax. Not bad! And total turn around time was less than 10 days.

    One more thing, since I already had the post off the bike, I decided to convert my old SLX front shifter into the dropper remote lever (I run a 1x10 drivetrain). I found a few threads on here detailing the process. I haven't taken it out on a proper ride yet, but around the neighborhood it felt great! Much better than the Spec. remote. Really looking forward to this upgrade.

  96. #396
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    Quote Originally Posted by lunchwagon View Post
    I wanted to share my experience with the broken collet issue.
    You are very lucky and have a good local Spec shop, because I had to wait 7 weeks to get the part (after repeated calls, Spec was out but eventually used their repair department supply, I had 2 shops try to get it!) and was originally quote $18 (ended up being cost so $36+tax) or $80+ to send in for service. It was a real PITA to replace it as they use red lockit (need blow torch, at least on the original model) and you have a very small grove to unscrew it. Very lucky your shop didn't charge you labor either as I almost gave up after couple hours trying to get it off with 2 people.

  97. #397
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    Quote Originally Posted by adumesny View Post
    You are very lucky and have a good local Spec shop
    I agree. I've been following this thread and was aware of your experience before my collet broke. I was not hopeful and didn't expect it to go so well. But when it did, I thought I should share my story so folks know it's worth giving it a go with their LBS. I'm not a Specialized fanboy (ride a Santa Cruz currently) and rarely purchase from this shop, so it's not like they were doing a favor for a loyal customer. The post was purchased there originally though, as they were the only place locally with stock.

  98. #398
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    Hi to all. I'm new in the forum and I'm writing here because I'd like to have from you a help... I've just received m blacklite seat post from the assistance but they forget to put in the bag some component : one of these is the one that fit with the cable and you match with the trigger. is there a possibility to buy it somewhere? Anybody know the exact name of that particular? I know I've been kind of confusing, I'm sorry for that (and for my English too...)

  99. #399
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    Re: Specialized Command Post Blacklite

    Quote Originally Posted by lunchwagon View Post
    One more thing, since I already had the post off the bike, I decided to convert my old SLX front shifter into the dropper remote lever (I run a 1x10 drivetrain). I found a few threads on here detailing the process. I haven't taken it out on a proper ride yet, but around the neighborhood it felt great! Much better than the Spec. remote. Really looking forward to this upgrade.
    I'm yet to take mine on a "proper" off road ride but just short rides around the streets makes me think this out the best way to do it too. A much more natural feel.

  100. #400
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    Hi,
    My son has a command post on a recently purchased Stumpy expert,
    the dropper works in all three positions fine, then randomly drops a small amount(maybe an inch or two) from its fully extended position when riding. press the lever and it pops up again.
    on a ride it can happen quite a few times, ride for a mile or so no problems, then it goes again.
    the couple of times he's rode it its been near 0-+3c.
    Any advise please?
    thanks in advance.

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