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  1. #201
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    Installed mine last weekend 30.9/125 drop--Im 6' works great, sometimes it sticks between med position and up all the way, pretty easy to play with the cable tension adjuster. Ill let it break in an go for the fine tune. I ride mostly fireroads--works nice on the descent

  2. #202
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    Good job!

    This is a great product... It's working exactly as advertised for me.

    You can download the Command Post Blacklite manual here.

    For those of you that don't like to read, here are some notes that I found useful:

    - Cable tension matters tremendously if you want the seat post to function correctly. Make sure the cable is routed in such a way that it isn't stretched and/or kinked when your bike's suspension flexes. Also, make sure the cable isn't overly taught or the seat post will move inadvertently.

    - Be sure the seat post is in the fully extended position when you fill it with air. Otherwise the seat post will not return to the fully extended position due to insufficient air pressure. Keep in mind, 40 psi is the maximum recommended air pressure.

    - The use of carbon paste will prevent your seat from tipping and tilting.

    Best of luck.
    JA

  3. #203
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    Just wanted to mention that I'm at the end of a 8-day trip including Santa Fe, Cortez, Moab, and Fruita/GJ.... and this post has killed it! With my old Joplin I never knew exactly where I was in the range - if you wanted the seat down an inch or so you had to jack around until you got it into the right position. When you put it all the way up sometimes you wouldn't quite know if that was all the way up or not. With the Blacklite you get a reassuring "CLACK" when you lock into a position. No guess-work!

    Also, being able to grab the bike by the seat during a hike-a-bike without worrying about getting air into the hydraulics is great... especially after a week of brain-frying heat out on the trails!

    The only issue I have had so far is with the crappy plastic ferrules they give you with the cable. The ferrule at the post end broke and let the steel cable housing wires start to poke through. The post worked fine though - I just happened to spot the problem at the end of the day while doing a check-up on the bike. I replaced the ferrules with some metal Jagwire ones from my parts bin and the problem is now solved forever.

  4. #204
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    Specialized Youtube channel on Blacklite maintance:

    <iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/K0X3sLMo-TA" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

  5. #205
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    Quote Originally Posted by mestapho View Post
    Specialized Youtube channel on Blacklite maintance:

    <iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/K0X3sLMo-TA" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
    Nice!! Thanks man!

  6. #206
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    Quote Originally Posted by okiemtnbkr View Post
    Nice!! Thanks man!
    No problem. I actually did the service today and it was very easy. Definitely use the bike to clamp the seatpost when loosening the top. I tried holding it in my hand while using the strap wrench and couldn't get it to budge. As soon as I relented and used the bike it loosened right up. I did get bad news though, when I discovered that the collet was broken and was causing the stickiness I was chasing, not lack of lubrication. It's a warranty repair at least.

  7. #207
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    I absolutely love my command post. Not only does it provide versatility on the go but it looks really cool.

    One problem, when I am out riding, once in awhile if I sit down on it hard, the seat angle will shoot up the nose. I then have stop and readjust. Is anyone else having this problem? I added a bit of carbon paste and it works great but just a bit noisy...

  8. #208
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    any idea when spesh is going to get these back in stock on their website?

  9. #209
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    Late July, early August was the response I got from Specialized.

  10. #210
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    Quote Originally Posted by Djg24 View Post
    Late July, early August was the response I got from Specialized.

    Don't count on it....they told me April when I was looking back in the winter! It's a moving target. IMHO, they are using all the production to put on new bikes. My LBS has had 100mm models in stock, but the 125's seem to be super scarce.

    Used, or take offs appear on eBay regularly, but they fetch close to full retail (or more) and they are NOT covered by Specialized's warranty. I must say that after 4-5 phone calls to Specialized customer service I'm not a big fan. That said, I'd still like to score a Blacklite at some point.
    The secret to mountain biking is pretty simple. The slower you go the more likely it is you'll crash. ~Julie Furtado

  11. #211
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    Glad I got mine when I did. No complaints with my Blacklite so far.

  12. #212
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    just buy a new specialize with it... LOL! JK!

  13. #213
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    Quote Originally Posted by mmohome2 View Post
    It looks like you can get the remote in two flavors: one that comes with grips, in which case the remote lever doubles as the grip retention clamp, or without grips, in which case the remote lever just mounts to empty space on the handlebar like anything else.

    In looking at the picture of the dual purpose remote lever/grip clamp, I don't see why that couldn't be made to work with some other brand of grips. However, Big S is the master of making things proprietary just for the sake of being non-compatible with everything else.
    when buying the blacklite aftermarket the lever that is comes with is the old style that only clamps to the bars.

    when buying a complete bike that is equipeed with the blacklite the lever is the type that doubles as a grip lock. also supplied with the completes is a bushing/spacer to clamp the lever just on the bars if not using specialized grips, or you dont like the position when locked on the grip.

    and i am pretty sure the specialized grips have a unique/proprietary clamp profile and the lever cant be used on any other grips, definitely not anything made by ODI.
    Juice

  14. #214
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    Just an update y Blacklite has developed quite a bit of side to side play owned since end of April. Enough that it rattles. Working with local dealer to get it looked at- ordered directly from Specialized website.

    Works great otherwise and I love the preset at 1" and full drop. No stiction, no issues raising or lowering, very smooth.

    Not angering or disappointed- just a heads up. Let you all know how Spesh handles it.

    I actually have a DSP Bighorn that a distributor sent me without receiving payment- those trusting Canadians they probably dont even lock their doors at night....I havent used it and was about to send it back but might hold onto for a bit longer depending on the verdict from the Big S. I need international paperwork from the distributor to send it back anyways.

  15. #215
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    my blacklite also has a very slight side to side play(don't notice while I'm riding). I can't remember for sure but I didn't think I noticed any play at all when it was new so pretty sure this side to side play is new. Right now it is not noticeable while riding. I hope it doesn't get worse(or if it does I hope it gets worse before the warranty is up!).

  16. #216
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    the side to side is more annoying than anything else- as long at it doesnt fail on the trail which is what has happened to so many others' posts (not specialized but other makes). I personally have never had a post fail on me BUT I also have never had one develop side to side play.

  17. #217
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    I've had my blacklite since they came out. It has always had a little wiggle, but it has never got worse and never failed me and I've never noticed in while riding. The only thing I've had to do was replace the cable after the housing got full of grit from the wet riding conditions this winter/spring.

  18. #218
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    After 300 miles, I am verry satisfied of my Blacklite. No problem!
    Excuse me for my english, I am a french Canadian...

  19. #219
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    Well problem solved- my saddle was broken even the bike shop guy was surprised. We went to remove the seat and discovered it was cracked where the rail goes into nose of the seat. Replaced saddle and now the wiggle is back to when I bought it. Sigh- thank goodness I dont have to send it in or be without it for a period of time.

  20. #220
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    I need a remote switch.
    Has anyone used a nonspec. remote or prefer a different compatable remote?

  21. #221
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    New, fairly comprehensive review of Blacklite @ Pinkbike

    See it HERE.

    They've used it for a year and have a nice writeup on it.
    The secret to mountain biking is pretty simple. The slower you go the more likely it is you'll crash. ~Julie Furtado

  22. #222
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    See it HERE.

    They've used it for a year and have a nice writeup on it.
    Mine is in for warranty with the same issue they had. The very front of the collect snapped off and my seat wouldn't return all the way up without a manual tug even at 40psi.

    Hopefully they make this piece a bit strudier or I'm certain I'll break it again.
    Oh well, if it does I'll sell it and go GD turbo.

  23. #223
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    I have ridden this blacklite hard, i have the 125mm with the 3 positions. The only thing i had to do was add about 30psi, as anything less and it just wasnt as responsive.

    The other drawback is it's weight, its a bit heavy for a dropper seatpost, but i can live with the small weight difference for its great performance so far! I recommend this seatpost for sure. Great stuff.
    Last edited by jesse101; 07-26-2012 at 09:46 PM.

  24. #224
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    I have only done one ride so far on mine but it feels solid and well built. Going to do a comparison between my Joplin 3 and command post after a few more rides.

  25. #225
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    I took mine apart to service it and greased it with maxima waterproof grease(super thick).
    It gave it a hydraulic, damped feel. Kind of like I had turned the rebound way up(if it had rebound).
    I'm stoked! It comes up nice and controlled and dosnt do the loud rough top out anymore. I used a lot of grease, like COVERED the collet and another big 2finger scoop into the outer tube.
    If it's not one thing it's your mother

  26. #226
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    Got mine back from warranty and its working again.
    Although, now I'm getting some accidental drops from full up to the cruiser position.
    Only seems to happen when I'm climbing which is really annoying. Hopefully that
    goes away with some more use.

  27. #227
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    New post/newb owner--is something wrong?

    I just received a 2012 Blacklite post from a seller on Craigslist.

    The dropper portion of the post is all the way down--flush against the collar of the "outside" post. Actuating the release lever, does nothing--the post doesn't pop up at all. I checked the air pressure and it was ~20 psi, as manual states. I pumped it to 30-35 with no results.

    I'm completely new to these posts, so it's quite possible I'm missing something simple--I hope so.

    One other thing I noticed is that the volume of air in the post seems to be tiny. One pump on a floor pump gets it to 20 psi and another 1/2 pump (or less) get it to 30+. Is that normal?

    Conversely, just attaching a pressure guage to get a reading can release all the air out and it's back to 0.

    I'm worried that the seals or something in the air chamber aren't working properly.

    Seller is an employee of a bike shop/Specialized dealer and the shop says they'll stand behind it if something's wrong. I'd rather have it working, but if it's damaged, then I need to get on them ASAP.

    TIA for any pointers.
    The secret to mountain biking is pretty simple. The slower you go the more likely it is you'll crash. ~Julie Furtado

  28. #228
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    Quote Originally Posted by Porschefan View Post
    I just received a 2012 Blacklite post from a seller on Craigslist.

    The dropper portion of the post is all the way down--flush against the collar of the "outside" post. Actuating the release lever, does nothing--the post doesn't pop up at all. I checked the air pressure and it was ~20 psi, as manual states. I pumped it to 30-35 with no results.

    I'm completely new to these posts, so it's quite possible I'm missing something simple--I hope so.

    One other thing I noticed is that the volume of air in the post seems to be tiny. One pump on a floor pump gets it to 20 psi and another 1/2 pump (or less) get it to 30+. Is that normal?

    Conversely, just attaching a pressure guage to get a reading can release all the air out and it's back to 0.

    I'm worried that the seals or something in the air chamber aren't working properly.

    Seller is an employee of a bike shop/Specialized dealer and the shop says they'll stand behind it if something's wrong. I'd rather have it working, but if it's damaged, then I need to get on them ASAP.

    TIA for any pointers.
    I think you need to check the pressure with the post all the way extended. When the post is collapsed like that I would imagine the pressure to be much higher than 30psi due to the reduction in volume.
    See if you can activate the lever and then manually pull the post all the way up. Then air it up to 20-30 psi and see if the post works normally.

    Although on the post I got I didn't have to mess with the air pressure at all when new. I just installed it and it pop'ed up once I hit the lever

  29. #229
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    You may need more pressure. The 40 psi max is with the seat at full height.
    With it down all the way the pressure will be higher. I don't know the number,
    but higher. I'd pump it up to 50 and depress the release and see if it doesn't
    pop up at that point.

  30. #230
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    Quote Originally Posted by Porschefan View Post
    I just received a 2012 Blacklite post from a seller on Craigslist.

    The dropper portion of the post is all the way down--flush against the collar of the "outside" post. Actuating the release lever, does nothing--the post doesn't pop up at all. I checked the air pressure and it was ~20 psi, as manual states. I pumped it to 30-35 with no results.

    I'm completely new to these posts, so it's quite possible I'm missing something simple--I hope so.

    One other thing I noticed is that the volume of air in the post seems to be tiny. One pump on a floor pump gets it to 20 psi and another 1/2 pump (or less) get it to 30+. Is that normal?

    Conversely, just attaching a pressure guage to get a reading can release all the air out and it's back to 0.

    I'm worried that the seals or something in the air chamber aren't working properly.

    Seller is an employee of a bike shop/Specialized dealer and the shop says they'll stand behind it if something's wrong. I'd rather have it working, but if it's damaged, then I need to get on them ASAP.

    TIA for any pointers.
    Use a shock pump for the seatpost. You're probably losing almost all the air pressure in the post when you disconnect the floor pump because the hose in the floor pump is so long. I would also suggest brining the post in to the actual bike shop that the seller works at if you have any other issues. Like you said, probably something simple that you're missing.

  31. #231
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    Quote Originally Posted by Porschefan View Post
    I just received a 2012 Blacklite post from a seller on Craigslist.

    The dropper portion of the post is all the way down--flush against the collar of the "outside" post. Actuating the release lever, does nothing--the post doesn't pop up at all. I checked the air pressure and it was ~20 psi, as manual states. I pumped it to 30-35 with no results.

    I'm completely new to these posts, so it's quite possible I'm missing something simple--I hope so.

    One other thing I noticed is that the volume of air in the post seems to be tiny. One pump on a floor pump gets it to 20 psi and another 1/2 pump (or less) get it to 30+. Is that normal?

    Conversely, just attaching a pressure guage to get a reading can release all the air out and it's back to 0.

    I'm worried that the seals or something in the air chamber aren't working properly.

    Seller is an employee of a bike shop/Specialized dealer and the shop says they'll stand behind it if something's wrong. I'd rather have it working, but if it's damaged, then I need to get on them ASAP.

    TIA for any pointers.
    Use a shock pump. Do not put more air than recommended because that will break the seatpost over time from excessively strong top-out. It will also feel like an ejection seat when it pops up. Ouch.

    Can you release the lever and extend the post manually? You should be able to. If not, something is wrong with it.

  32. #232
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    Yo has anybody performed the "COLD WEATHER" mods for the Blacklite. Mine is almost useless in cold temps. But once inside the bike room and normal temps, it works super good again. Temperamental seatpost I tell you!! They should make a 'canadian' version tuned for cold weather out of the box.

    Help a brother out!

  33. #233
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    Quote Originally Posted by zoro View Post
    Yo has anybody performed the "COLD WEATHER" mods for the Blacklite. Mine is almost useless in cold temps. But once inside the bike room and normal temps, it works super good again. Temperamental seatpost I tell you!! They should make a 'canadian' version tuned for cold weather out of the box.

    Help a brother out!
    I haven't tried it yet, but the cold weather mod just means using a lighter lube. Stock lube some kind of grease. Swap that for oil. Just make sure it's compatible with the seals. A heavier weight suspension oil might work, but double check with Specialized to see what they recommend. Call the number on their website.

    Overhaul instructions so you can do it yourself...

    Tech Tuesday - Specialized Command Post Blacklite Maintenance by mikelevy - Pinkbike

  34. #234
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    Quote Originally Posted by zoro View Post
    Yo has anybody performed the "COLD WEATHER" mods for the Blacklite. Mine is almost useless in cold temps. But once inside the bike room and normal temps, it works super good again. Temperamental seatpost I tell you!! They should make a 'canadian' version tuned for cold weather out of the box.

    Help a brother out!
    I'm kind of curious too. My original command post would get slow in the cold too. Now my blacklite is showing that behavior too. I used to just put a bit of triflow on the seals with my old one and that would speed things up for awhile but thinking I should do the legit cold weather tune this time around.

    Just curious why they wouldn't just do the cold weather tune out of the box? What happens when it gets warm again? Super duper fast ejection-seat action??

  35. #235
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    Has anyone set their's up with just straight cable without the adjuster in it?
    OG Ripley v2
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  36. #236
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    Just curious, how do you other guys with the blacklite clamp your bike to a repair stand? Do you clamp it on To the part of the post that moves up and down or to the bottom part?

  37. #237
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    Quote Originally Posted by pwu_1 View Post
    Just curious, how do you other guys with the blacklite clamp your bike to a repair stand? Do you clamp it on To the part of the post that moves up and down or to the bottom part?
    Bottom part always. Don't want to damage the shaft.
    Juice

  38. #238
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    Quote Originally Posted by pwu_1 View Post
    Just curious, how do you other guys with the blacklite clamp your bike to a repair stand? Do you clamp it on To the part of the post that moves up and down or to the bottom part?
    Never clamp anything to the stanchion. Scratch that, and there goes your post...

  39. #239
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    Unless you are at a Specialized demo day. I was shocked when they continually clamped to the stanchion every time a bike was brought in to change over for a new person. Made sense after awhile as they were just trying to get more people through the demo as possible and they didnt care about the state of the bikes. I was amazed that the posts kept working as well as they did.

  40. #240
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    Command Post Cold Weather Setup Directions

    Been looking for the cold weather setup for the Command Post for a while and I finally found it. I was really beginning to think I just wasn't out there. Just in case anybody needs it, here's the link:

    http://service.specialized.com/asc/C...0208A_revA.pdf

    Anybody have any suggestions for a good, inexpensive for oil for this application?

    Thanks
    Bryan

  41. #241
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pike14 View Post
    Use a shock pump for the seatpost. You're probably losing almost all the air pressure in the post when you disconnect the floor pump because the hose in the floor pump is so long. I would also suggest brining the post in to the actual bike shop that the seller works at if you have any other issues. Like you said, probably something simple that you're missing.
    Update: I was able to release the post using a shock pump instead of the floor pump. I took it to a local Specialized shop to have it checked out and ended up having them install it there. Working fine!

    Thanks for the tips.
    The secret to mountain biking is pretty simple. The slower you go the more likely it is you'll crash. ~Julie Furtado

  42. #242
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    Quote Originally Posted by trailjunkee View Post
    Been looking for the cold weather setup for the Command Post for a while and I finally found it. I was really beginning to think I just wasn't out there. Just in case anybody needs it, here's the link:

    http://service.specialized.com/asc/C...0208A_revA.pdf

    Anybody have any suggestions for a good, inexpensive for oil for this application?

    Thanks
    Bryan
    I know you are probably looking for something cheaper than the belray 10wt oil, but i have used belray on everything on my bike with no issues. I know they sell silicone shock oils for like 3 bucks for a small bottle..but the 15 dollar 1 liter belray 10 wt is like 15 bucks... Which should last a long time between builds.

  43. #243
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    Quote Originally Posted by jesse101 View Post
    I know you are probably looking for something cheaper than the belray 10wt oil, but i have used belray on everything on my bike with no issues. I know they sell silicone shock oils for like 3 bucks for a small bottle..but the 15 dollar 1 liter belray 10 wt is like 15 bucks... Which should last a long time between builds.
    Thanks Jesse. $15 looks ok to me. I hope this winter to do a refresh on my fork anyway so it would be good to have around. Are you sourcing your oil online or from a local shop? If it's online where are you getting it? Looks like Amazon's got a good price on it but shipping's pretty high since they don't sell it directly. Might head out to a moto shop to she what they've got this weekend.

    Thanks again!

  44. #244
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    If you can do this mod then you can work on your own fork. Just buy the fork oil from your local motoshop. Your $15 will get you through your next 5 to 10 oil changes in your fork too.

  45. #245
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    I got mine through my local harley davidson dealership for 15.99. And its pretty easy to rebuild..i am also looking to rebuild my revelation fork over the winter and shortening my cables. But i am debating to send my fork to push ind or get it done myself...choices choices lol

  46. #246
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    I also have the "cold weather" slow down (up) effect. I just spray a little WD-40 on a rag and rub/clean the upper part of the post, leaving no residue, seems to work just fine for a couple cold rides in a row.

    I bought mine new from a member here 12 months ago, set it up and have yet to have any issues with it (other than the slow down when cold). I ride 3-4 times per week 10-20 miles per ride, with multiple post use.

  47. #247
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    From another thread, do any of you have issues with the force required to press the lever? If so, any solutions that work well?
    Also, are you using the Spesh grips w/ integral lever? If so, any issues with the grips so far?

  48. #248
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simplemind View Post
    From another thread, do any of you have issues with the force required to press the lever? If so, any solutions that work well?
    Also, are you using the Spesh grips w/ integral lever? If so, any issues with the grips so far?
    Are you using the noodle that came with the post? Its the silver 90 degree bend piece.
    I originally had my post installed with the noodle and after a while it seemed like it got harder and harder to push the lever.
    Finally, I checked the cable and noticed it was getting a little bit rusty. Got a new cable and it was better but still kind of hard to push. Finally, I removed the noodle and the lever is much much easier to push now.

  49. #249
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    Quote Originally Posted by pwu_1 View Post
    Are you using the noodle that came with the post? Its the silver 90 degree bend piece.
    I originally had my post installed with the noodle and after a while it seemed like it got harder and harder to push the lever.
    Finally, I checked the cable and noticed it was getting a little bit rusty. Got a new cable and it was better but still kind of hard to push. Finally, I removed the noodle and the lever is much much easier to push now.
    I think your experience is like most, the noodle is the culprit. I think I'll pack it with a dry lube prior to using first time.

  50. #250
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    Accidental drops from full up to cruiser or lowest position while climbing

    Quote Originally Posted by mestapho View Post
    Got mine back from warranty and its working again.
    Although, now I'm getting some accidental drops from full up to the cruiser position.
    Only seems to happen when I'm climbing which is really annoying
    . Hopefully that
    goes away with some more use.
    I am now experiencing exactly the same problem. Happens about 1-3 time per ride and only while climbing steep stuff where I am scooted more forward on the saddle. Does anybody know why this happens and what the resolution is?

  51. #251
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    Are you sure you have plenty of cable in the routing, where there's no tugging at full extension?

  52. #252
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    Quote Originally Posted by fizzywater View Post
    I am now experiencing exactly the same problem. Happens about 1-3 time per ride and only while climbing steep stuff where I am scooted more forward on the saddle. Does anybody know why this happens and what the resolution is?
    I've had that a few times. It's caused by something keeping the release lever (I'm referring the the cable-actuated lever under the saddle, not the remote lever on the handlebars) from fully extending to the lock position quickly enough. Usually this means the cable or housing needs replacement or at least some lube. In one case, the lever on my post was sticking even with the cable disconnected. I dripped some triflow around the lever's pivot and that seemed to free things up again.

  53. #253
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    Anyone have experience with the locking SIP grips that come with the some of the Blacklite kits?

  54. #254
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simplemind View Post
    Anyone have experience with the locking SIP grips that come with the some of the Blacklite kits?
    Too small for me. I have a large hand and wanted them to work, but had to put my ODI Rogue's back on.

    They were a perfect fit for my 10 year old's hands.
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  55. #255
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    Well, broke a piece off of the collet again.
    It'll be going in for warranty repair for the second time for the same issue.
    Think I'm switching to a Gravity Dropper now.

  56. #256
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    Quote Originally Posted by mestapho View Post
    Well, broke a piece off of the collet again.
    It'll be going in for warranty repair for the second time for the same issue.
    Think I'm switching to a Gravity Dropper now.
    I'm curious, what were you doing when the collet broke, ie, raising/lowering, and did you know immediately? Also, do you weight the seat when raising, or let it hit the stops on it's own? Did you disassemble to see the damage?

  57. #257
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    Quote Originally Posted by mestapho View Post
    Well, broke a piece off of the collet again.
    It'll be going in for warranty repair for the second time for the same issue.
    Think I'm switching to a Gravity Dropper now.
    Also, do you remember if it was the same piece/same general area that broke before?

  58. #258
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simplemind View Post
    I'm curious, what were you doing when the collet broke, ie, raising/lowering, and did you know immediately? Also, do you weight the seat when raising, or let it hit the stops on it's own? Did you disassemble to see the damage?
    I didn't know immediately that it had broken again.
    I keep my butt on the seat as it travels up for the most part.
    I disassembled it to check why it wasn't working correctly again.
    The symptoms are the seat not extending without needing a tug, especially from the cruiser position to full up.


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  59. #259
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    Quote Originally Posted by pwu_1 View Post
    Also, do you remember if it was the same piece/same general area that broke before?
    It was on the opposite side of the collet this time.
    The first time was the piece directly in the front.
    This time it is the piece directly in the back.


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  60. #260
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    Quote Originally Posted by mestapho View Post
    The symptoms are the seat not extending without needing a tug, especially from the cruiser position to full up.
    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
    Good info, thanks!
    I see how the collet works, from the photo's on the PB review, and it looks like you may be referring to one of the fingers of the collet breaking off...correct? I can see why this "mechanical stop" takes a beating, which is why I think it's important to ease it up and down. May be the Achilles heal of the mechanical design vs hydraulic. I think I still prefer mechanical for it's simplicity.

  61. #261
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simplemind View Post
    Good info, thanks!
    I see how the collet works, from the photo's on the PB review, and it looks like you may be referring to one of the fingers of the collet breaking off...correct? I can see why this "mechanical stop" takes a beating, which is why I think it's important to ease it up and down. May be the Achilles heal of the mechanical design vs hydraulic. I think I still prefer mechanical for it's simplicity.
    Yep. It's the little finger things that have broken off. I'll take a picture before it goes back to Spec.


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  62. #262
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    I like my 2013 FSR Elite but I think the single bolt seat clamp on he Blacklite is a design flaw. I understand that ease of adjusting the saddle tilt is a selling point but a two-bolt system isn't that difficult. How often do you adjust your seat position fore-and-aft and tiltwise anyway? Unless there's some extreme, North Shore Double Diamond technique of which I am not aware, we generally adjust our saddles once and then forget about them.

    No matter how tightly I torqued the bolt, the saddle would periodically tilt after hitting a bump or a hard landing. Off the bike, loosen, readjust, and torque well past 122 Nm. Four or five times a ride...not acceptable on a $4000 bike.

    The problem is the design and the installation method. The posts uses a clamp to squeeze wedges into a smooth cylinder. The instructions say to grease the wedges but I didn't get a good clamping action until I cleaned the grease off with alcohol, sprayed all the contact points with Carbogrip, and put so much torque on the clamping bolt that I fear something is going to fail catastrophically.

    I was contemplating drilling and tapping two setscrews through the cylinder and wedges but abandoned the idea; probably would have lead to a stress fracture through the holes.

    It works fine now but I don't trust it and am carrying the appropriate allen key in my pocket just in case. Certainly will not go on an epic ride with it.

    By comparison I have a KS dropper post on my Enduro, also a single bolt design (which will be switched onto the FSR as soon as I get the time) that I essentially adjusted once two years ago and have never given it a thought. The difference is that the clamp sits on serrated base which gives that extra hold. The KS, by the way, has worked flawlessly and I just clean it and put grease under the collar every six months or so.

    I'm a heavier rider...around 230 pounds but that's why I got a big bike like the FSR.

    On another note, the lever is awful. Very un-ergonomic and to put it in the ideal position for my thumb would cause interference with the shifter. I know this post is getting rave reviews but while I really like Specialized as a brand and no doubt the post is going to set the standard for reliability I think they could have done better.
    Last edited by Ailuropoda; 11-26-2012 at 04:21 PM.

  63. #263
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ailuropoda View Post
    I like my 2013 FSR Elite but I think the single bolt seat clamp on he Blacklite is a design flaw. I understand that ease of adjusting the saddle tilt is a selling point but a two-bolt system isn't that difficult. How often do you adjust your seat position fore-and-aft and tiltwise anyway? Unless there's some extreme, North Shore Double Diamond technique of which I am not aware, we generally adjust our saddles once and then forget about them.

    No matter how tightly I torqued the bolt, the saddle would periodically tilt after hitting a bump or a hard landing. Off the bike, loosen, readjust, and torque well past 122 Nm. Four or five times a ride...not acceptable on a $4000 bike.

    The problem is the design and the installation method. The posts uses a clamp to squeeze wedges into a smooth cylinder. The instructions say to grease the wedges but I didn't get a good clamping action until I cleaned the grease off with alcohol, sprayed all the contact points with Carbogrip, and put so much torque on the clamping bolt that I fear something is going to fail catastrophically.

    I was contemplating drilling and tapping two setscrews through the cylinder and wedges but abandoned the idea; probably would have lead to a stress fracture through the holes.

    It works fine now but I don't trust it and am carrying the appropriate allen key in my pocket just in case. Certainly will not go on an epic ride with it.

    By comparison I have a KS dropper post on my Enduro, also a single bolt design (which will be switched onto the FSR as soon as I get the time) that I essentially adjusted once two years ago and have never given it a thought. The difference is that the clamp sits on serrated base which gives that extra hold. The KS, by the way, has worked flawlessly and I just clean it and put grease under the collar every six months or so.

    I'm a heavier rider...around 230 pounds but that's why I got a big bike like the FSR.

    On another note, the lever is awful. Very un-ergonomic and to put it in the ideal position for my thumb would cause interference with the shifter. I know this post is getting rave reviews but while I really like Specialized as a brand and no doubt the post is going to set the standard for reliability I think they could have done better.
    The tilting seat problem is easily solved with carbon fiber paste on the red cone thingy parts. Don't know if that is the same as the Carbogrip. I had the tilty seat issue until I did this and not a problem since. I'm also a bigger rider was in the 230 range when I first got the post. My issue is the collet breaking. Mine is about to go back to Spec for the second time for the same issue. At your size I can almost guarantee that you will break the collet in the first 6 mos of riding.

  64. #264
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    I want to get my wife a blacklite for Xmas. She has a 2010 specialized myna fsr small. The max her seat post can go into her frame is 5.250". Does anybody think that the 100 mm will work for her? Or will I have to wait until the 75mm gets back into stock?
    Thank.

  65. #265
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    Quote Originally Posted by dorkboy View Post
    I want to get my wife a blacklite for Xmas. She has a 2010 specialized myna fsr small. The max her seat post can go into her frame is 5.250". Does anybody think that the 100 mm will work for her? Or will I have to wait until the 75mm gets back into stock?
    Thank.
    Depends on how much seatpost is exposed right now. Go measure from the seat collar to the seat rail and see what the measurement is. If there is at least 9.75 then the 100mm will work.
    The way I figured this is as follows:
    The lower portion of the 100mm post from where the post flares out for the seal to the end of the post is 8.5" The top portion from the seal to the seat rail is 6.5"
    Since the frame can only insert 5.25" you take 8.5 - 5.25 = 3.25. Then take 6.5+ 3.25(for the additional exposed lower portion of the post) = 9.75"
    Hope that makes sense.

  66. #266
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    Yeah, I measured and my wife rides with her saddle up at 5.750" going uphill, then drops it down 2 - 3 inches for downhill.

    Maybe the 75mm blacklite would be better. But they aren't available, so it might be a delayed xmas gift.

    Thanks for your help!
    Scott.

  67. #267
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    Quote Originally Posted by dorkboy View Post
    Yeah, I measured and my wife rides with her saddle up at 5.750" going uphill, then drops it down 2 - 3 inches for downhill.

    Maybe the 75mm blacklite would be better. But they aren't available, so it might be a delayed xmas gift.

    Thanks for your help!
    Scott.
    hm, with 5.75" showing and only able to insert the seatpost 5.25" into the seat tube I'm not even sure the 75mm dropper post would work.

  68. #268
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    The broken collet. 2nd time.


  69. #269
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    Quote Originally Posted by mestapho View Post
    The broken collet. 2nd time.

    Just found mine broken too. 3rd one for me. Looks like this is a recurring issue.

  70. #270
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    Just wanted to give an update to say I've been using the Blacklite for quite some time now with no issues. Many of my local riding buddies are as well and have reported no problems. Once you apply the carbon paste to the saddle clamp to prevent rotating the post is great. Reverb has failed twice so I'm done with that thing.

    I finally decided to get rid of that f@#$%ing curved noodle at the bar clamp and it's resolved all my issues with the lever being too hard to push. I determined it was where most of the resistance was in the cable sliding smoothly. It's not quite as clean looking, but the loop out front really isn't that big and the post is MUCH more useable now. I can drop it quickly whenever I need to now. I love it, and unlike the Reverb it has been reliable.

    Food for thought for those considering the 100 vs the 125mm. I couldn't use more than the 100 for my frame so that's what I've been using. I've found I don't miss the extra drop that the longer Reverb had. 100mm at full drop is more than enough for the steepest, most technical trails. I never really thought about it before, but I think going an inch shorter will also improve longterm durability because ultimately you are looking at less stress on all the components. It will be a shorter lever arm so there will be less torsional forces at the saddle on the thinner telescoping part.
    Gotta get up to get down.
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  71. #271
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    Quote Originally Posted by BaeckerX1 View Post
    I finally decided to get rid of that f@#$%ing curved noodle at the bar clamp and it's resolved all my issues with the lever being too hard to push.
    interesting... And I just lubed my noodle the other day!


  72. #272
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    Quote Originally Posted by bad andy View Post
    interesting... And I just lubed my noodle the other day!

    Keep your personal non-bike-related pastimes off of MTBR Andy. Nobody needs to hear about that.
    Gotta get up to get down.
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  73. #273
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    Quote Originally Posted by BaeckerX1 View Post
    Just wanted to give an update to say I've been using the Blacklite for quite some time now with no issues. Many of my local riding buddies are as well and have reported no problems. Once you apply the carbon paste to the saddle clamp to prevent rotating the post is great. Reverb has failed twice so I'm done with that thing.

    I finally decided to get rid of that f@#$%ing curved noodle at the bar clamp and it's resolved all my issues with the lever being too hard to push. I determined it was where most of the resistance was in the cable sliding smoothly. It's not quite as clean looking, but the loop out front really isn't that big and the post is MUCH more useable now. I can drop it quickly whenever I need to now. I love it, and unlike the Reverb it has been reliable.

    Food for thought for those considering the 100 vs the 125mm. I couldn't use more than the 100 for my frame so that's what I've been using. I've found I don't miss the extra drop that the longer Reverb had. 100mm at full drop is more than enough for the steepest, most technical trails. I never really thought about it before, but I think going an inch shorter will also improve longterm durability because ultimately you are looking at less stress on all the components. It will be a shorter lever arm so there will be less torsional forces at the saddle on the thinner telescoping part.
    I wrote about the same issue with the noodle a while back.
    Removing the noodle was like night and day difference for me. When I got the dropper for my other bike I didn't even bother with the noodle.

  74. #274
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    Glad to hear it wasn't just me. I didn't have time to read through the entire thread, but it's good others are aware of the issue.
    Gotta get up to get down.
    LMB

  75. #275
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    I found swapping the stock cable for a Teflon cable made the lever action considerably more smooth as well. Almost 2 years on BL post now with no issues at all - knock, knock, knock.

  76. #276
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    Just did a tune up on mine. Thanks for posting the "how to" video, can't remember who it was.

    Still have that noodle but with a teflon cable as well. Better than brand new. Thumb lever feels more like a shifter now.

    Very smooth and very easy to do if you follow step by step video.

    Psyched now to ride...

  77. #277
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    I have had this post for 3 months now, and it's my first dropper. I weigh 225 and am 6'2. I got the 100 mm version, and have had no slipping or tilting, zero problems at all, and I use the crap out of it. So far so good...

  78. #278
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    Tilting clamp....

    Clean it, grease the works, tighten very well.

    I had slipperage until I started to grease it. I have two posts going strong with no slips for a year.

    Admittedly, if I sit on the seat and shift my weight, then try to re- tighten the clamp, I can usually get another eighth turn. Frugality to add that in, and that is important.
    Last edited by Miker J; 04-24-2013 at 04:58 AM.

  79. #279
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    Does anyone know where to get a replacement collet for Blacklite?

  80. #280
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    Specialized Command Post Blacklite

    Quote Originally Posted by HZKI View Post
    Does anyone know where to get a replacement collet for Blacklite?
    Had to send mine to Spec. twice to have the collet repaired. The second time the work order said they put the 1nd generation collet on. Hopefully that fixes this issue.

  81. #281
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    Quote Originally Posted by mestapho View Post
    The second time the work order said they put the 1nd generation collet on. Hopefully that fixes this issue.
    Very confusing wording. Did you mean 1st or 2nd?
    Gotta get up to get down.
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  82. #282
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    Specialized Command Post Blacklite

    Quote Originally Posted by BaeckerX1 View Post
    Very confusing wording. Did you mean 1st or 2nd?
    Oops. 2nd warranty service put on the 2nd generation collet.
    Stupid fat thumbs.

  83. #283
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    Guys, care to advise what are the options to change the cables?

  84. #284
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    I went with Jagwire ripcord. Just being vain and wanted it to match the rest of my housing. Works good but I did find out that their cable ends are a little bigger than what came with the post and are REALLY tight in the cable stop on the post. If I have my cable off in the future I'm going back to the stock cable end on the Jagwire housing if it will fit. It's tight enough that I need a pair of pliers to pull the end out of the stop. Nice setup otherwise.

  85. #285
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    Just purchased the 125mm blacklite. Looked around at various options and seems this is a decent solution. They all seem to run into issues at some point so I opted to support the LBS and have access to help if needed. I installed it myself, worked like a champ.

    Rode it today for the first time, I set PR with strava all over the place but that's because I was excited. LOL

    Now I just need to remember to use it before I'm half way down or up the trail.

  86. #286
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    Quote Originally Posted by brigcampbell View Post
    Now I just need to remember to use it before I'm half way down or up the trail.
    It becomes second nature just like shifting after a few rides - best investment I've ever made.

  87. #287
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    Here is my setup, just mounted on the inside right on the left side. The XT brakes were a bit of an issue. Probably could have moved it over to the left more but I have bear paws.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Specialized Command Post Blacklite-imag0439.jpg  


  88. #288
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    Quote Originally Posted by brigcampbell View Post
    Here is my setup, just mounted on the inside right on the left side. The XT brakes were a bit of an issue. Probably could have moved it over to the left more but I have bear paws.
    Those look like XT shifters. If they are you can the ISpec covers and have just one clamp, cleans up the bars nicely.
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  89. #289
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    Quote Originally Posted by Miker J View Post
    Tilting clamp....
    Clean it, grease the works, tighten very well.
    I had slipperage until I started to grease it. I have two posts going strong with no slips for a year.
    Admittedly, if I sit on the seat and shift my weight, then try to re- tighten the clamp, I can usually get another eighth turn. Frugality to add that in, and that is important.
    yes you are right. theres a video on youtube where the guy tightens the bolt with a torque wrench. then you rock the seat front to back. then retorque. then do it again. he got about half a turn from initial setting, but now with the right torque.
    could be worth buying a small torque wrench if you are worried about overtightening.
    Specialized Command Post Blacklite: Set Up - YouTube

  90. #290
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    Remote Lever

    Anyone buy a complete and swap out the grips? Did your bag of goodies come with a collar some something to allow the remote to clamp to the bars once the stock grips were removed? I didn't get anything like that, and of course, the clamp is too big for the bars. I'm gonna call the shop I got it from, and if that doesn't work, call Spesh directly and see if they can point me in the right direction.

  91. #291
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    Quote Originally Posted by renderedtoast View Post
    Anyone buy a complete and swap out the grips? Did your bag of goodies come with a collar some something to allow the remote to clamp to the bars once the stock grips were removed? I didn't get anything like that, and of course, the clamp is too big for the bars. I'm gonna call the shop I got it from, and if that doesn't work, call Spesh directly and see if they can point me in the right direction.
    nvm....see below
    Last edited by pwu_1; 06-26-2013 at 07:06 AM. Reason: reading comprehension fail.

  92. #292
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    Quote Originally Posted by renderedtoast View Post
    Anyone buy a complete and swap out the grips? Did your bag of goodies come with a collar some something to allow the remote to clamp to the bars once the stock grips were removed? I didn't get anything like that, and of course, the clamp is too big for the bars. I'm gonna call the shop I got it from, and if that doesn't work, call Spesh directly and see if they can point me in the right direction.
    Quote Originally Posted by pwu_1 View Post
    I think the remote lever/clamp that replaces the clamp for the grip is only available as OEM when the post comes with the bike. The aftermarket retail package seatpost doesn't come with that clamp.
    I think you can order the other lever/clamp but not sure how much it costs. Post up if you find out how much it is to order.
    Not sure what you mean as far as ordering the complete? I ordered mine from the LBS and mine came with the clamp for use without the grips. The first one I bought was a take off from a bike and if I remember correctly it came with a sleeve for inside the clamp to make it fit bars.
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  93. #293
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    Mine came on my stumpy and also included the sleeve/collar for use with non-spec-clamp grips.

  94. #294
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    Quote Originally Posted by bad andy View Post
    Mine came on my stumpy and also included the sleeve/collar for use with non-spec-clamp grips.
    I bought a complete Stumpy. I didn't get a sleeve/collar. I did get two strange looking clamps with a screw on one end to clamp, and another screw on the other that looks like a set screw. I'm calling the shop I bought it from today to inquire about the collar. I was at another Spesh shop in Escondido on Sunday, and they all had blank stares when I asked them how the lever attaches to the bars with aftermarket grips.

  95. #295
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    Quote Originally Posted by renderedtoast View Post
    I bought a complete Stumpy. I didn't get a sleeve/collar. I did get two strange looking clamps with a screw on one end to clamp, and another screw on the other that looks like a set screw. I'm calling the shop I bought it from today to inquire about the collar. I was at another Spesh shop in Escondido on Sunday, and they all had blank stares when I asked them how the lever attaches to the bars with aftermarket grips.
    I wouldn't be surprised if the techs didn't know what it was for and threw it away. As I said my OEM take off had the collar that fit inside.
    OG Ripley v2
    Mojo 3- For Sale
    Carver 420 TI

  96. #296
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    Hi

    I've my my Blacklite for about a year now. Unfortunately it's started to 'drop' from the highest position of it's own accord - this always happens when I'm attacking a steep climb.
    It does drop when pedaling on the flat too but just not as often.
    I thought the cable may be sticking so I disconnected from the post and discovered it still occurs.
    I've dismantled the post and inspected the internals hoping to see an issue but it's in excellent condition - nothing broken or worn.

    The post has been perfect until now.

    Any ideas?

    Cheers.

  97. #297
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    Specialized Command Post Blacklite

    Warranty issue. Send it back to be fixed. Happened twice to me. Now riding a Fox DOSS

  98. #298
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    I had the first and now second generation in 100mm. Both work great.

    The issues with version two are hard lever action and no good mounting position with Shimano shifter/brakes. Lever was so hard to pull that I started looking around for other options. It seems that version one had much better lever design with the exception of proprietary cable (why???)

    The original noodle was impossible to use with Shimano. I replaced it with a noodle that I made from a V brake noodle. Little bit of cutting and sanding. It has a larger radius, so its not as tight. The mod is simple, just cut the bulb at the end of the noodle to make it a single diameter tube. Sand and round smooth and clean any cutting leftovers on the outside and inside of the tube.

    Straighter tube means less friction. Now I get two things:
    • Fits with Shimano
    • Lever action is acceptable. Still hard and nowhere near Reverb or Crank Brothers. But it's usable.

    I highly recommend this mod.

  99. #299
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    The manual says the plunger height needs resetting.
    Anyone familiar with this procedure?

  100. #300
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    Quote Originally Posted by BorisD View Post
    The manual says the plunger height needs resetting.
    Anyone familiar with this procedure?
    If it's not the tension in the cable, it's the post itself, I can guarantee it.
    Take it to a Spec. dealer and have it warrantied.

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