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  1. #1
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    RockShox Reverb Thread

    Figured we should make a thread for all the thoughts and common issues from Reverb owners and for potential Reverb buyers. It'll also be a great place to post short, mid, and long term reviews of the post, as well as pictures of Reverb setups.

    A lot of this information was pulled from the ajdustable seatpost thread. Thanks to BMJ and tscheezy for their contributions.

    Strengths
    1. Incredibly smooth actuation
    2. No degradation of cable to worry about
    3. Substantial fork seals should keep contaminants out
    4. Easily serviced by any place that services forks
    5. Very little play, can't be felt while on bike, only while moving saddle by hand with bike stationary
    6. Stupid easy to bleed and shorten cable
    7. Solid 2 bolt saddle clamp mechanism
    8. Lightweight at 515g claimed weight (30.9mm diameter, 380mm length version)
    9. Infinite adjustability
    10. 5 inches of adjust
    11. Adjustable return speed
    12. Syringes/Oil included in box
    13. Combination clamp for SRAM shifters included
    14. Mounts with matchmaker clamp if you have SRAM shifters and Avid brakes (not included)
    15. Quiet. No noise when engaged or moving into a setting
    16. Slick looks

    Weaknesses
    1. May need to be filled pretty much right from the factory if your post is slow (see below).
    2. Seatpost clamp bolts may back out on first ride. Make sure to tighten well and possibly loctite. Does not appear to reoccur after things are settled and re-tightened.
    3. Hydraulic cable has coil memory and has to be trained a little before it will behave.
    4. Hydraulic cable forms large bends when lowered. On some frames need to be creative with cable routing to avoid cable getting into linkage/contacting rear tire with suspension travel.
    5. SRAM shifter combination clamp is a pain to setup (not an issue with standalone clamp).
    6. Can be sensitive to clamping force if over-tightened. This is true with most adjustable posts. I have not experienced this as I'm a bigger guy.

    You Decide
    Torx bolt at remote clamp instead of Allen can be annoying if you don't have a newer multitool with Torx head, but less chance of stripping bolt.

    Important Note:
    For anyone who is experiencing slow return speed out of the box, you pretty much have to follow the procedure that BMJ did, listed below, unless you are shortening the line.

    Shortening Line:
    You should already have the remote mounted to your bike and the cable routed how you want it at this stage. If you are shortening the line, dial the barrel adjuster all the way to the slowest setting. Remove the line from the remote. The instructions in the SRAM link below say to cut a slit in the cable and then pull off, but I had problems cutting the cable. I used pliers and was able to gently pull the cable off the barb without much trouble. The barb will stay on the remote, so no need to worry about barbs and olives like hydraulic brakes.

    Measure and cut the cable to the desired length with a proper cable cutter that won't crimp the hose. Make sure to leave enough cable for your handlebars to completely turn both ways without pulling the cable out of the lever. Hold cable vertical when cutting and plug end with finger to ensure you don't spill any oil. You should have oil up to the end of the cable. Reattach cable to barb of remote. You should be able to push it all the way on with your fingers. If you have problems, wrap a rag around the cable and use pliers to push the rest of the way on without crushing or gouging the cable. Turn the barrel adjuster to the highest setting. Work the seatpost and remote. You should now have fast return like expected.

    If you did spill some oil it is ok, you will just have to add some more. Follow BMJ's instructions and the SRAM guide below. It is very simple with the included syringe. You really should fill it with the barrel adjuster in the slowest setting so you get fast return. If you top it off with it in the fastest setting, the post will creep up like a snail.

    Bleeding Process:
    Quote Originally Posted by BMJ
    I set the speed dial full slow, which pulled in the lever. I then filled one of the syringes and threaded it into the remote bleed hole. I pumped in fluid untill the remote lever was full out again and put a little pressure on the system. Upon removing the syringe, some fluid backed out and then I sealed it back up.

    Results....

    Full slow is now what full fast was. Full fast is twice as fast as it was. Not as fast as my Joplin or Amp post but alot faster than out of the box. The remote now activates approx 1/3rd the way in instead of all the way in. Now I can use the full speed range and the fast setting is MUCH closer to the way I like it to be.

    Either they set it wrong in Taiwan or the barometric pressure / temps are dramatically different here that the settings fluctuated in transit.
    Instructions and diagram for hydraulic remote can be found here:
    http://www.sram.com/_media/pdf/sram/...-Procedure.pdf

    2 year warranty, original owner only

    User Submitted Specs
    Actual Weights:
    30.9/380 - 522 grams (tscheezy)
    30.9/420 - 565 grams (scottg)
    31.6/380 - 537 grams (mitja)
    31.6/420 -

    Install lengths:
    I measured about 7 1/4" from bottom of fitting to bottom of seat rails, about 7 1/2" to top of seat rails.
    Bottom of silver fitting to the seat rails is 190 mm when post is fully extended. (scottg)
    You need a minimum of 195mm of exposed post (from the enter of the saddle rails to the top of the seat tube/collar) to run a Reverb. (tscheezy)

    80mm Minimum Insertion Length or about 3.15 inches (Reverb Manual)
    Last edited by BaeckerX1; 10-30-2010 at 05:32 PM.
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  2. #2
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    Short term impressions are great. Despite the few setup quirks, so far this has been the best upgrade I've made to my bike. I love being able to put the saddle wherever I want it for various terrain without having to worry about finding any stopping points along the way. I drop it 1-2 inches for technical descending and all the way down for the steep, rough, downhills. So far the post has been excellent. It moves smoothly without any issues. It doesn't drop or come up when it's not supposed to. The hydraulic remote feels awesome. We will see how it holds up long-term.

    Also, just a little quirk. The post will work perfectly fine if you engage it while you're already sitting on it. It does work smoother however, if you unweight the saddle, press the remote, and then sit on it to lower it.
    Last edited by BaeckerX1; 10-21-2010 at 08:16 PM.
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  3. #3
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    cant wait to get my hands on one of these.

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    Loving mine as well. It's held up solidly for a dozen rides and added a new dimension to my rides. It is my first remote adjustable post, but I'm finding I use it way more than I expected and it performs great.

  5. #5
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    Rail to bottom of collar measurements need to added to this thread as well. And confirmed weights.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by in the trees
    Rail to bottom of collar measurements need to added to this thread as well. And confirmed weights.
    I'll get you up some measurements, but I'll leave it to someone else to post the confirmed weights and I'll add them. I didn't bother to weigh mine before I installed it, and I'm not weight weenie enough to own a parts scale. Various posts I've seen around have put it at just around or a tiny bit above the claimed weight, with a little bit more for the longer version and the 31.6 size.

    Edit: Added information from previous posts (thanks to scottg and tscheezy). Haven't heard of anyone with either 31.6 version yet though.
    Last edited by BaeckerX1; 10-21-2010 at 08:36 PM.
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    anyone know if you can put a spacer or something to limit the travel on the reverb? its a smidge too long for me.

  8. #8
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    Well, it is an infinite position post. Just don't push it all the way down.

  9. #9
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    Does the reverb come with a seat post clamp as red somewhere you need to set it to a specific torque so as to not affect the function of it.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick Draper
    Does the reverb come with a seat post clamp as red somewhere you need to set it to a specific torque so as to not affect the function of it.
    No just get a bolt on clamp and use a torque wrench. They do specify torque settings in the manual. No need for a QR anyway with an adjustable post. I didn't have a torque wrench handy, so I just guessed on mine. I tightened it down until it was pretty damn tight, but didn't brute force it tight. If you use a small allen key or multitool like I did, you're unlikely to over-torque it too much with the minimal leverage, though you certainly could if you ape-handed it. It works fine for me.
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    adding air?

    Does anyone know if you can adjust the return speed of this post by adding air via a pump? It seems from the instructions given in the beginning here that the return speed of the post is, at least in part, determined by the oil level and proper bleeding.

    thanks,
    peter

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by chenpj
    Does anyone know if you can adjust the return speed of this post by adding air via a pump? It seems from the instructions given in the beginning here that the return speed of the post is, at least in part, determined by the oil level and proper bleeding.

    thanks,
    peter
    I don't have one, but my understanding is that the return speed is adjusted by a barrel adjuster at the remote since it is hydraulic and not cable actuated. Someone correct me if I'm wrong
    2013 Medium Santa Cruz Blur Trc in Matte/Silver, full XT kit, 1x10 with 32T wolftooth ring, 25 pounds 7 ounces

  13. #13
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    Here it is: weight of out of the box RS Reverb in 31.6 380mm
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails RockShox Reverb Thread-reverb.jpg  


  14. #14
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    Can you trim the bottom of the seatpost off for frame clearance, on the 380mm version of course, thanks.

  15. #15
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    5. Torx bolt at remote clamp instead of Allen.
    pls move this into the 'strengths' column, where it belongs.

    chainring bolts, disc rotor bolts, small clamp bolts (especially if made from aluminum, e.g. hi end formula brakes) are increasingly torx not allen, for sound engineering reasons.

    multitool mfg'ers are starting to realize this as well.
    Originally posted by bucksaw87
    I still fail to see how mustaches, fixies, and PBR are ironic.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by mitja
    Here it is: weight of out of the box RS Reverb in 31.6 380mm
    Added. Thanks.
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  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by frorider
    pls move this into the 'strengths' column, where it belongs.

    chainring bolts, disc rotor bolts, small clamp bolts (especially if made from aluminum, e.g. hi end formula brakes) are increasingly torx not allen, for sound engineering reasons.

    multitool mfg'ers are starting to realize this as well.
    Let's just list it as an either or. For me it was annoying. Personally, I've never stripped out a 4 or 5mm allen before. I've never even stripped out the tiny ones on my lock-on grips in all the times I've taken them off and put them back on.
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  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by mimi1885
    Can you trim the bottom of the seatpost off for frame clearance, on the 380mm version of course, thanks.
    I think you can't, the bottom of outer tube is almost in line (maybe 2-3mm longer) with shredder walve in the middle.

  19. #19
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    Should have my Reverb on Wednesday or Thursday. Will get it weighed and get the results up on here. Its going to be the 380mm 30.9mm version.

  20. #20
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    So I guess my main question about this seatpost is: Why couldn't they design it so cable would attach to the bottom part of the seatpost and wouldn't have to move?

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by daniyarm
    So I guess my main question about this seatpost is: Why couldn't they design it so cable would attach to the bottom part of the seatpost and wouldn't have to move?

    Well, That would have make sense , most of the mechanical ones do though, the Hydro is the one that needs work.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by mimi1885
    most of the mechanical ones do though
    the majority do but the most popular and argueably best mech posts (command, ks950) route it at the top.

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    I am very interested in getting a reverb to replace the joplin 4 post I am currently running. The newer joplin has been working well so far but the reverb has so many significant performance advantages that I am looking to make the switch soon. The only thing holding me back at this point is the remote switch. Seems that only right hand remotes are shipping and that a left mount may end up being an aftermarket add on anyway? Also, people are running their RH switches upside down on the left side so the lever doesn't stick up so much. I want to run the remote on the left and it seems that this might be the way to go. Are people running them this way happy with the setup?

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    Quote Originally Posted by sessionrider
    Also, people are running their RH switches upside down on the left side so the lever doesn't stick up so much. I want to run the remote on the left and it seems that this might be the way to go. Are people running them this way happy with the setup?
    Nearest I can tell, that's only an option if you aren't running a shifter on the left side. The ergonomics would seem much improved if you are able to run it on the bottom.

    I'm also not happy with the LH/RH lottery. Hopefully the next round of shipments will have this as an option.

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    Where can I buy one? Everywhere I looked is out of stock.

  26. #26
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    Universal cycles seems to have some in stock

    http://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...&category=4201
    Pugsley, Bullit

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rugbyroy
    Universal cycles seems to have some in stock

    http://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...&category=4201
    Thanks.I'm gonna call them this morning.

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Huck Pitueee
    Thanks.I'm gonna call them this morning.
    If you order from Universal, make sure to buy something small to bump your order over $300 and use code VIP15 to get 15% off orders of 300 or more. That bumps the Reverb price down to less than $260.
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  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by BaeckerX1
    If you order from Universal, make sure to buy something small to bump your order over $300 and use code VIP15 to get 15% off orders of 300 or more. That bumps the Reverb price down to less than $260.
    X2. Plus you'll get free standard shipping.

  30. #30
    BMJ
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    Right remote... left side... yes.

    Quote Originally Posted by sessionrider
    I am very interested in getting a reverb to replace the joplin 4 post I am currently running. The newer joplin has been working well so far but the reverb has so many significant performance advantages that I am looking to make the switch soon. The only thing holding me back at this point is the remote switch. Seems that only right hand remotes are shipping and that a left mount may end up being an aftermarket add on anyway? Also, people are running their RH switches upside down on the left side so the lever doesn't stick up so much. I want to run the remote on the left and it seems that this might be the way to go. Are people running them this way happy with the setup?
    I'm running mine this way. Not to protect it but to put the button in a position that I don't have to raise my thum above the bar in the rough. Works out great! I'm running 1x9 though and think it would be difficult to get away with this if you weren't.

  31. #31
    BMJ
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    My speedy little trick.

    Quote Originally Posted by chenpj
    Does anyone know if you can adjust the return speed of this post by adding air via a pump? It seems from the instructions given in the beginning here that the return speed of the post is, at least in part, determined by the oil level and proper bleeding.

    thanks,
    peter
    According to the instructions, they don't want you fussing with the air pressure. It's set very high from the factory at 250psi!

    I tricked my activation valve inside the post by topping off my remote in 40deg temps. Because the fluid within the closed remote system contracts when cold, you can squeeze in a little more juice into the line and preload the main valve. This makes it quick in the cold and lightning fast and snappy when it's warmer out! If you were to leave it this way in the full heat of the summer, you'd probably have to either back out the return speed adjuster at the remote to allow for extreme expansion or bleed out some fluid for the summer season.

    Mine is fast like on steroids with this set-up and the remote activates very quickly in it's stroke to get things moving without having to push the remote button all the way in.

  32. #32
    Lev
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    Hey all, was wondering if you have any advice about choosing the 380mm vs. 420mm. It looks like most other comparable seatposts (KS, Command Post, etc.) run in the 380 range. That's actually what I wound up ordering, but the order hasn't been filled yet so I figured I would check in here. For reference, I'm 5'10"

    Thanks

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    Quote Originally Posted by Lev
    Hey all, was wondering if you have any advice about choosing the 380mm vs. 420mm. It looks like most other comparable seatposts (KS, Command Post, etc.) run in the 380 range. That's actually what I wound up ordering, but the order hasn't been filled yet so I figured I would check in here. For reference, I'm 5'10"

    Thanks
    Set your current post to the highest point you'd like to run it.
    Measure the exposed length to the seat rails.
    Add 80mm.
    If that total number is greater than 380, you might want the 420.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Lev
    Hey all, was wondering if you have any advice about choosing the 380mm vs. 420mm. It looks like most other comparable seatposts (KS, Command Post, etc.) run in the 380 range. That's actually what I wound up ordering, but the order hasn't been filled yet so I figured I would check in here. For reference, I'm 5'10"

    Thanks
    At 6'0 I run the 380. You'll be fine as long as your frame is pretty standard as far as standover and seat tube height. 380mm is right at 15 inches. That's pretty long. You'd have to have almost 12 inches of exposed seatpost to be at the minimum insertion for the post, though I wouldn't want to be close to the minimum insertion.
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    Anyone know any stores in the USA that have stock of 380mm 30.9mm reverbs and that will also ship to the UK?

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    Quote Originally Posted by car_nut
    Set your current post to the highest point you'd like to run it.
    Measure the exposed length to the seat rails.
    Add 80mm.
    If that total number is greater than 380, you might want the 420.
    Is this the official way to establish the correct length post to buy?

    Not seen any fore sale yet in the UK.

    Thanks

    Mark

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    Quote Originally Posted by RSMarco
    Not seen any fore sale yet in the UK.
    Nope and its going to be December or January before we get them FFS.

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    Quote Originally Posted by RSMarco
    Is this the official way to establish the correct length post to buy?

    Not seen any fore sale yet in the UK.

    Thanks

    Mark
    Definitely not I don't recommend anyone taking my advice as official

    The minimum insertion is 80 mm. If you have <280mm of post sticking out at the highest point you want to use it, then 380 should do it. More than 280 and you'll have to start thinking about whether or not you like running a post at minimum insertion.

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    Some frames may even specify a minimum post insertion that may be longer than the Reverb 80mm

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by pumpkins
    Some frames may even specify a minimum post insertion that may be longer than the Reverb 80mm
    Good point. See, I knew I was usually wrong

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    My frame is a Large Santacruz Carbon Nomad and I think the min insert length is 100mm?

    Why are the UK boy's having to wait. Are they optimising the seals to cope with the wet weather..lol

    Thanks guy's.

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    Does anyone know if the 420mm length post is trimmable? Is it basically the same as the 380mm with a longer tube going into the frame that could be trimmed if required?

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    unfortunately the 420mm post cannot be trimmed, the innards come right to the bottom. BTW, when deciding what length to get, one should probably see how much insertion the frame manufacturer recommends, my uzzi is recommended 5" minimum.

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    Quote Originally Posted by BMJ
    According to the instructions, they don't want you fussing with the air pressure. It's set very high from the factory at 250psi!
    I got away with attaching a shock pump to the nozzle and re-establishing 250PSI without effecting the performance. I think RS should attach a red tag to the post with a warning not to adjust the air pressure. With the 250 psi etched on the nozzle cap it's just screaming "check me". On a second (slower) read of the manual, I saw this warning:

    Important: DO NOT attempt to adjust air pressure using the air valve located on the bottom of the seatpost. Any change in the factory pressure will render the seatpost inoperable, requiring full service.

    I've put about 25 hours of riding on mine so far and it's still performing like day 1.
    Last edited by MarkHL; 10-27-2010 at 07:10 PM.

  45. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by RSMarco
    Why are the UK boy's having to wait. Are they optimising the seals to cope with the wet weather..lol
    Probably optimiZing the manual so you Brits don't cry over the bastardiZation of the Queen's English.

    We know how sensitive you can get.
    Gotta get up to get down.
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    Quote Originally Posted by BaeckerX1
    Probably optimiZing the manual so you Brits don't cry over the bastardiZation of the Queen's English.

    We know how sensitive you can get.
    Haha,
    Very funny, there is always one..! Was just testing you guy's

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    I think we in the UK are having to wait so Sram can see how many americans ignore the English manual and connect a shock pump to the valve at the bottom of the post to "check" the seatpost pressure lmfao.

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    just like a big red button with a BIG sign saying 'Do Not Press'

    lol

  49. #49
    BMJ
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    Problem is, IFP's can be fickle. If you allow the pressure to go too low, the IFP can migrate and cause air to mix with the fluid. On a suspension fork or shock, it can hamper performance and make annoying swishing sounds as they suck the air through the damper, but on a height adjust seatpost, it affects the ability of the post to hold at set heights without spongyness. The small amount of air that feeds into the fluid can be compressed and now you have a height adjust "suspension post". Now you basically have a Joplin post but you can't cycle the air out manually, you need a full rebuild with the IFP being reset at the proper height without any air trapped above it. I've set IFP's before, it can be a pain in the A**!

    Another "Big Red Button" item out there is user adjustable B/O rear shocks. Got one of these and you go below or above the printed range, you may be looking at a rebuild as well.

    One nice thing about having the ability to access the air valve on the Reverb is the fact that it could be user servicable if you competent to do so. The KS i900 I just sent in for rebuild... couldn't find an air valve anywhere or see a way to take it apart in my home shop, so off in the mail it went.

  50. #50
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    Reputation: Johnnydrz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    472
    BMJ, funny thing you mention "The small amount of air that feeds into the fluid can be compressed and now you have a height adjust "suspension post"... because I am presently using a suspension post on my present hardtail bike (SS) because of a bad back. I really want to get an adjustable post for all the benefits they have, but I'll loose that squish my back is used to now... I wonder if I could have the best of both worlds...

    Johnnydrz

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