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  1. #1
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    RockShox Reverb Thread

    Figured we should make a thread for all the thoughts and common issues from Reverb owners and for potential Reverb buyers. It'll also be a great place to post short, mid, and long term reviews of the post, as well as pictures of Reverb setups.

    A lot of this information was pulled from the ajdustable seatpost thread. Thanks to BMJ and tscheezy for their contributions.

    Strengths
    1. Incredibly smooth actuation
    2. No degradation of cable to worry about
    3. Substantial fork seals should keep contaminants out
    4. Easily serviced by any place that services forks
    5. Very little play, can't be felt while on bike, only while moving saddle by hand with bike stationary
    6. Stupid easy to bleed and shorten cable
    7. Solid 2 bolt saddle clamp mechanism
    8. Lightweight at 515g claimed weight (30.9mm diameter, 380mm length version)
    9. Infinite adjustability
    10. 5 inches of adjust
    11. Adjustable return speed
    12. Syringes/Oil included in box
    13. Combination clamp for SRAM shifters included
    14. Mounts with matchmaker clamp if you have SRAM shifters and Avid brakes (not included)
    15. Quiet. No noise when engaged or moving into a setting
    16. Slick looks

    Weaknesses
    1. May need to be filled pretty much right from the factory if your post is slow (see below).
    2. Seatpost clamp bolts may back out on first ride. Make sure to tighten well and possibly loctite. Does not appear to reoccur after things are settled and re-tightened.
    3. Hydraulic cable has coil memory and has to be trained a little before it will behave.
    4. Hydraulic cable forms large bends when lowered. On some frames need to be creative with cable routing to avoid cable getting into linkage/contacting rear tire with suspension travel.
    5. SRAM shifter combination clamp is a pain to setup (not an issue with standalone clamp).
    6. Can be sensitive to clamping force if over-tightened. This is true with most adjustable posts. I have not experienced this as I'm a bigger guy.

    You Decide
    Torx bolt at remote clamp instead of Allen can be annoying if you don't have a newer multitool with Torx head, but less chance of stripping bolt.

    Important Note:
    For anyone who is experiencing slow return speed out of the box, you pretty much have to follow the procedure that BMJ did, listed below, unless you are shortening the line.

    Shortening Line:
    You should already have the remote mounted to your bike and the cable routed how you want it at this stage. If you are shortening the line, dial the barrel adjuster all the way to the slowest setting. Remove the line from the remote. The instructions in the SRAM link below say to cut a slit in the cable and then pull off, but I had problems cutting the cable. I used pliers and was able to gently pull the cable off the barb without much trouble. The barb will stay on the remote, so no need to worry about barbs and olives like hydraulic brakes.

    Measure and cut the cable to the desired length with a proper cable cutter that won't crimp the hose. Make sure to leave enough cable for your handlebars to completely turn both ways without pulling the cable out of the lever. Hold cable vertical when cutting and plug end with finger to ensure you don't spill any oil. You should have oil up to the end of the cable. Reattach cable to barb of remote. You should be able to push it all the way on with your fingers. If you have problems, wrap a rag around the cable and use pliers to push the rest of the way on without crushing or gouging the cable. Turn the barrel adjuster to the highest setting. Work the seatpost and remote. You should now have fast return like expected.

    If you did spill some oil it is ok, you will just have to add some more. Follow BMJ's instructions and the SRAM guide below. It is very simple with the included syringe. You really should fill it with the barrel adjuster in the slowest setting so you get fast return. If you top it off with it in the fastest setting, the post will creep up like a snail.

    Bleeding Process:
    Quote Originally Posted by BMJ
    I set the speed dial full slow, which pulled in the lever. I then filled one of the syringes and threaded it into the remote bleed hole. I pumped in fluid untill the remote lever was full out again and put a little pressure on the system. Upon removing the syringe, some fluid backed out and then I sealed it back up.

    Results....

    Full slow is now what full fast was. Full fast is twice as fast as it was. Not as fast as my Joplin or Amp post but alot faster than out of the box. The remote now activates approx 1/3rd the way in instead of all the way in. Now I can use the full speed range and the fast setting is MUCH closer to the way I like it to be.

    Either they set it wrong in Taiwan or the barometric pressure / temps are dramatically different here that the settings fluctuated in transit.
    Instructions and diagram for hydraulic remote can be found here:
    http://www.sram.com/_media/pdf/sram/...-Procedure.pdf

    2 year warranty, original owner only

    User Submitted Specs
    Actual Weights:
    30.9/380 - 522 grams (tscheezy)
    30.9/420 - 565 grams (scottg)
    31.6/380 - 537 grams (mitja)
    31.6/420 -

    Install lengths:
    I measured about 7 1/4" from bottom of fitting to bottom of seat rails, about 7 1/2" to top of seat rails.
    Bottom of silver fitting to the seat rails is 190 mm when post is fully extended. (scottg)
    You need a minimum of 195mm of exposed post (from the enter of the saddle rails to the top of the seat tube/collar) to run a Reverb. (tscheezy)

    80mm Minimum Insertion Length or about 3.15 inches (Reverb Manual)
    Last edited by BaeckerX1; 10-30-2010 at 04:32 PM.
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  2. #2
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    Short term impressions are great. Despite the few setup quirks, so far this has been the best upgrade I've made to my bike. I love being able to put the saddle wherever I want it for various terrain without having to worry about finding any stopping points along the way. I drop it 1-2 inches for technical descending and all the way down for the steep, rough, downhills. So far the post has been excellent. It moves smoothly without any issues. It doesn't drop or come up when it's not supposed to. The hydraulic remote feels awesome. We will see how it holds up long-term.

    Also, just a little quirk. The post will work perfectly fine if you engage it while you're already sitting on it. It does work smoother however, if you unweight the saddle, press the remote, and then sit on it to lower it.
    Last edited by BaeckerX1; 10-21-2010 at 07:16 PM.
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  3. #3
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    cant wait to get my hands on one of these.

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    Loving mine as well. It's held up solidly for a dozen rides and added a new dimension to my rides. It is my first remote adjustable post, but I'm finding I use it way more than I expected and it performs great.

  5. #5
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    Rail to bottom of collar measurements need to added to this thread as well. And confirmed weights.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by in the trees
    Rail to bottom of collar measurements need to added to this thread as well. And confirmed weights.
    I'll get you up some measurements, but I'll leave it to someone else to post the confirmed weights and I'll add them. I didn't bother to weigh mine before I installed it, and I'm not weight weenie enough to own a parts scale. Various posts I've seen around have put it at just around or a tiny bit above the claimed weight, with a little bit more for the longer version and the 31.6 size.

    Edit: Added information from previous posts (thanks to scottg and tscheezy). Haven't heard of anyone with either 31.6 version yet though.
    Last edited by BaeckerX1; 10-21-2010 at 07:36 PM.
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    anyone know if you can put a spacer or something to limit the travel on the reverb? its a smidge too long for me.

  8. #8
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    Well, it is an infinite position post. Just don't push it all the way down.

  9. #9
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    Does the reverb come with a seat post clamp as red somewhere you need to set it to a specific torque so as to not affect the function of it.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick Draper
    Does the reverb come with a seat post clamp as red somewhere you need to set it to a specific torque so as to not affect the function of it.
    No just get a bolt on clamp and use a torque wrench. They do specify torque settings in the manual. No need for a QR anyway with an adjustable post. I didn't have a torque wrench handy, so I just guessed on mine. I tightened it down until it was pretty damn tight, but didn't brute force it tight. If you use a small allen key or multitool like I did, you're unlikely to over-torque it too much with the minimal leverage, though you certainly could if you ape-handed it. It works fine for me.
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    adding air?

    Does anyone know if you can adjust the return speed of this post by adding air via a pump? It seems from the instructions given in the beginning here that the return speed of the post is, at least in part, determined by the oil level and proper bleeding.

    thanks,
    peter

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by chenpj
    Does anyone know if you can adjust the return speed of this post by adding air via a pump? It seems from the instructions given in the beginning here that the return speed of the post is, at least in part, determined by the oil level and proper bleeding.

    thanks,
    peter
    I don't have one, but my understanding is that the return speed is adjusted by a barrel adjuster at the remote since it is hydraulic and not cable actuated. Someone correct me if I'm wrong
    2013 Medium Santa Cruz Blur Trc in Matte/Silver, full XT kit, 1x10 with 32T wolftooth ring, 25 pounds 7 ounces

  13. #13
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    Here it is: weight of out of the box RS Reverb in 31.6 380mm
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails RockShox Reverb Thread-reverb.jpg  


  14. #14
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    Can you trim the bottom of the seatpost off for frame clearance, on the 380mm version of course, thanks.

  15. #15
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    5. Torx bolt at remote clamp instead of Allen.
    pls move this into the 'strengths' column, where it belongs.

    chainring bolts, disc rotor bolts, small clamp bolts (especially if made from aluminum, e.g. hi end formula brakes) are increasingly torx not allen, for sound engineering reasons.

    multitool mfg'ers are starting to realize this as well.
    Originally posted by bucksaw87
    I still fail to see how mustaches, fixies, and PBR are ironic.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by mitja
    Here it is: weight of out of the box RS Reverb in 31.6 380mm
    Added. Thanks.
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  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by frorider
    pls move this into the 'strengths' column, where it belongs.

    chainring bolts, disc rotor bolts, small clamp bolts (especially if made from aluminum, e.g. hi end formula brakes) are increasingly torx not allen, for sound engineering reasons.

    multitool mfg'ers are starting to realize this as well.
    Let's just list it as an either or. For me it was annoying. Personally, I've never stripped out a 4 or 5mm allen before. I've never even stripped out the tiny ones on my lock-on grips in all the times I've taken them off and put them back on.
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  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by mimi1885
    Can you trim the bottom of the seatpost off for frame clearance, on the 380mm version of course, thanks.
    I think you can't, the bottom of outer tube is almost in line (maybe 2-3mm longer) with shredder walve in the middle.

  19. #19
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    Should have my Reverb on Wednesday or Thursday. Will get it weighed and get the results up on here. Its going to be the 380mm 30.9mm version.

  20. #20
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    So I guess my main question about this seatpost is: Why couldn't they design it so cable would attach to the bottom part of the seatpost and wouldn't have to move?

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by daniyarm
    So I guess my main question about this seatpost is: Why couldn't they design it so cable would attach to the bottom part of the seatpost and wouldn't have to move?

    Well, That would have make sense , most of the mechanical ones do though, the Hydro is the one that needs work.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by mimi1885
    most of the mechanical ones do though
    the majority do but the most popular and argueably best mech posts (command, ks950) route it at the top.

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    I am very interested in getting a reverb to replace the joplin 4 post I am currently running. The newer joplin has been working well so far but the reverb has so many significant performance advantages that I am looking to make the switch soon. The only thing holding me back at this point is the remote switch. Seems that only right hand remotes are shipping and that a left mount may end up being an aftermarket add on anyway? Also, people are running their RH switches upside down on the left side so the lever doesn't stick up so much. I want to run the remote on the left and it seems that this might be the way to go. Are people running them this way happy with the setup?

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    Quote Originally Posted by sessionrider
    Also, people are running their RH switches upside down on the left side so the lever doesn't stick up so much. I want to run the remote on the left and it seems that this might be the way to go. Are people running them this way happy with the setup?
    Nearest I can tell, that's only an option if you aren't running a shifter on the left side. The ergonomics would seem much improved if you are able to run it on the bottom.

    I'm also not happy with the LH/RH lottery. Hopefully the next round of shipments will have this as an option.

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    Where can I buy one? Everywhere I looked is out of stock.

  26. #26
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    Universal cycles seems to have some in stock

    http://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...&category=4201
    Pugsley, Bullit

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rugbyroy
    Universal cycles seems to have some in stock

    http://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...&category=4201
    Thanks.I'm gonna call them this morning.

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Huck Pitueee
    Thanks.I'm gonna call them this morning.
    If you order from Universal, make sure to buy something small to bump your order over $300 and use code VIP15 to get 15% off orders of 300 or more. That bumps the Reverb price down to less than $260.
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  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by BaeckerX1
    If you order from Universal, make sure to buy something small to bump your order over $300 and use code VIP15 to get 15% off orders of 300 or more. That bumps the Reverb price down to less than $260.
    X2. Plus you'll get free standard shipping.

  30. #30
    BMJ
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    Right remote... left side... yes.

    Quote Originally Posted by sessionrider
    I am very interested in getting a reverb to replace the joplin 4 post I am currently running. The newer joplin has been working well so far but the reverb has so many significant performance advantages that I am looking to make the switch soon. The only thing holding me back at this point is the remote switch. Seems that only right hand remotes are shipping and that a left mount may end up being an aftermarket add on anyway? Also, people are running their RH switches upside down on the left side so the lever doesn't stick up so much. I want to run the remote on the left and it seems that this might be the way to go. Are people running them this way happy with the setup?
    I'm running mine this way. Not to protect it but to put the button in a position that I don't have to raise my thum above the bar in the rough. Works out great! I'm running 1x9 though and think it would be difficult to get away with this if you weren't.

  31. #31
    BMJ
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    My speedy little trick.

    Quote Originally Posted by chenpj
    Does anyone know if you can adjust the return speed of this post by adding air via a pump? It seems from the instructions given in the beginning here that the return speed of the post is, at least in part, determined by the oil level and proper bleeding.

    thanks,
    peter
    According to the instructions, they don't want you fussing with the air pressure. It's set very high from the factory at 250psi!

    I tricked my activation valve inside the post by topping off my remote in 40deg temps. Because the fluid within the closed remote system contracts when cold, you can squeeze in a little more juice into the line and preload the main valve. This makes it quick in the cold and lightning fast and snappy when it's warmer out! If you were to leave it this way in the full heat of the summer, you'd probably have to either back out the return speed adjuster at the remote to allow for extreme expansion or bleed out some fluid for the summer season.

    Mine is fast like on steroids with this set-up and the remote activates very quickly in it's stroke to get things moving without having to push the remote button all the way in.

  32. #32
    Lev
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    Hey all, was wondering if you have any advice about choosing the 380mm vs. 420mm. It looks like most other comparable seatposts (KS, Command Post, etc.) run in the 380 range. That's actually what I wound up ordering, but the order hasn't been filled yet so I figured I would check in here. For reference, I'm 5'10"

    Thanks

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    Quote Originally Posted by Lev
    Hey all, was wondering if you have any advice about choosing the 380mm vs. 420mm. It looks like most other comparable seatposts (KS, Command Post, etc.) run in the 380 range. That's actually what I wound up ordering, but the order hasn't been filled yet so I figured I would check in here. For reference, I'm 5'10"

    Thanks
    Set your current post to the highest point you'd like to run it.
    Measure the exposed length to the seat rails.
    Add 80mm.
    If that total number is greater than 380, you might want the 420.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Lev
    Hey all, was wondering if you have any advice about choosing the 380mm vs. 420mm. It looks like most other comparable seatposts (KS, Command Post, etc.) run in the 380 range. That's actually what I wound up ordering, but the order hasn't been filled yet so I figured I would check in here. For reference, I'm 5'10"

    Thanks
    At 6'0 I run the 380. You'll be fine as long as your frame is pretty standard as far as standover and seat tube height. 380mm is right at 15 inches. That's pretty long. You'd have to have almost 12 inches of exposed seatpost to be at the minimum insertion for the post, though I wouldn't want to be close to the minimum insertion.
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    Anyone know any stores in the USA that have stock of 380mm 30.9mm reverbs and that will also ship to the UK?

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    Quote Originally Posted by car_nut
    Set your current post to the highest point you'd like to run it.
    Measure the exposed length to the seat rails.
    Add 80mm.
    If that total number is greater than 380, you might want the 420.
    Is this the official way to establish the correct length post to buy?

    Not seen any fore sale yet in the UK.

    Thanks

    Mark

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    Quote Originally Posted by RSMarco
    Not seen any fore sale yet in the UK.
    Nope and its going to be December or January before we get them FFS.

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    Quote Originally Posted by RSMarco
    Is this the official way to establish the correct length post to buy?

    Not seen any fore sale yet in the UK.

    Thanks

    Mark
    Definitely not I don't recommend anyone taking my advice as official

    The minimum insertion is 80 mm. If you have <280mm of post sticking out at the highest point you want to use it, then 380 should do it. More than 280 and you'll have to start thinking about whether or not you like running a post at minimum insertion.

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    Some frames may even specify a minimum post insertion that may be longer than the Reverb 80mm

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by pumpkins
    Some frames may even specify a minimum post insertion that may be longer than the Reverb 80mm
    Good point. See, I knew I was usually wrong

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    My frame is a Large Santacruz Carbon Nomad and I think the min insert length is 100mm?

    Why are the UK boy's having to wait. Are they optimising the seals to cope with the wet weather..lol

    Thanks guy's.

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    Does anyone know if the 420mm length post is trimmable? Is it basically the same as the 380mm with a longer tube going into the frame that could be trimmed if required?

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    unfortunately the 420mm post cannot be trimmed, the innards come right to the bottom. BTW, when deciding what length to get, one should probably see how much insertion the frame manufacturer recommends, my uzzi is recommended 5" minimum.

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    Quote Originally Posted by BMJ
    According to the instructions, they don't want you fussing with the air pressure. It's set very high from the factory at 250psi!
    I got away with attaching a shock pump to the nozzle and re-establishing 250PSI without effecting the performance. I think RS should attach a red tag to the post with a warning not to adjust the air pressure. With the 250 psi etched on the nozzle cap it's just screaming "check me". On a second (slower) read of the manual, I saw this warning:

    Important: DO NOT attempt to adjust air pressure using the air valve located on the bottom of the seatpost. Any change in the factory pressure will render the seatpost inoperable, requiring full service.

    I've put about 25 hours of riding on mine so far and it's still performing like day 1.
    Last edited by MarkHL; 10-27-2010 at 06:10 PM.

  45. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by RSMarco
    Why are the UK boy's having to wait. Are they optimising the seals to cope with the wet weather..lol
    Probably optimiZing the manual so you Brits don't cry over the bastardiZation of the Queen's English.

    We know how sensitive you can get.
    Gotta get up to get down.
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    Quote Originally Posted by BaeckerX1
    Probably optimiZing the manual so you Brits don't cry over the bastardiZation of the Queen's English.

    We know how sensitive you can get.
    Haha,
    Very funny, there is always one..! Was just testing you guy's

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    I think we in the UK are having to wait so Sram can see how many americans ignore the English manual and connect a shock pump to the valve at the bottom of the post to "check" the seatpost pressure lmfao.

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    just like a big red button with a BIG sign saying 'Do Not Press'

    lol

  49. #49
    BMJ
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    Problem is, IFP's can be fickle. If you allow the pressure to go too low, the IFP can migrate and cause air to mix with the fluid. On a suspension fork or shock, it can hamper performance and make annoying swishing sounds as they suck the air through the damper, but on a height adjust seatpost, it affects the ability of the post to hold at set heights without spongyness. The small amount of air that feeds into the fluid can be compressed and now you have a height adjust "suspension post". Now you basically have a Joplin post but you can't cycle the air out manually, you need a full rebuild with the IFP being reset at the proper height without any air trapped above it. I've set IFP's before, it can be a pain in the A**!

    Another "Big Red Button" item out there is user adjustable B/O rear shocks. Got one of these and you go below or above the printed range, you may be looking at a rebuild as well.

    One nice thing about having the ability to access the air valve on the Reverb is the fact that it could be user servicable if you competent to do so. The KS i900 I just sent in for rebuild... couldn't find an air valve anywhere or see a way to take it apart in my home shop, so off in the mail it went.

  50. #50
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    BMJ, funny thing you mention "The small amount of air that feeds into the fluid can be compressed and now you have a height adjust "suspension post"... because I am presently using a suspension post on my present hardtail bike (SS) because of a bad back. I really want to get an adjustable post for all the benefits they have, but I'll loose that squish my back is used to now... I wonder if I could have the best of both worlds...

    Johnnydrz

  51. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by BaeckerX1
    If you order from Universal, make sure to buy something small to bump your order over $300 and use code VIP15 to get 15% off orders of 300 or more. That bumps the Reverb price down to less than $260.
    Do some searching for a lower price and see if they will price match. Sometimes they only give a little off, but that's still something. Get some brake pads or gels to put you just above the $300 mark. When I got my crankset from them, I got a price match ($10 less), 15 % off, and free shipping
    Lead by my Lefty............... right down the trail, no brakes.

  52. #52
    BMJ
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    Maybe look into this product

    If your looking for a height adjust seatpost with some suspension, you may want to look into this product.

    http://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...s.php?id=31051

    Can't be too high-tech for under $50 bucks but probably cheaper then having to have your new Reverb rebuilt because you couldn't frankenstein it.

    As far as trying to modify a Reverb, the squish you'd probably be able to create wouldn't be able to actually hold you up but be more of an annoyance.
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  53. #53
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    QBP got them in yesterday and sold out within a few hours, I managed to grab 7 before they were gone though. Have a couple that aren't spoken for if anyone is looking. I think they're getting more into their other warehouse this week also.

    Larry
    www.mtnhighcyclery.com
    "It is inhumane, in my opinion, to force people who have a genuine medical need for coffee to wait in line behind people who apparently view it as some kind of recreational activity". - Dave Barry

  54. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ventanarama
    QBP got them in yesterday and sold out within a few hours, I managed to grab 7 before they were gone though. Have a couple that aren't spoken for if anyone is looking. I think they're getting more into their other warehouse this week also.

    Larry
    www.mtnhighcyclery.com
    Good news!
    Down is the new up.

  55. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by sessionrider
    I am very interested in getting a reverb to replace the joplin 4 post I am currently running. The newer joplin has been working well so far but the reverb has so many significant performance advantages that I am looking to make the switch soon. The only thing holding me back at this point is the remote switch. Seems that only right hand remotes are shipping and that a left mount may end up being an aftermarket add on anyway? Also, people are running their RH switches upside down on the left side so the lever doesn't stick up so much. I want to run the remote on the left and it seems that this might be the way to go. Are people running them this way happy with the setup?
    That's how I have been running mine over the past few weeks and wouldn't run it any other way. I did have to file down some material on top of the shifter pod to make it flat so the remote could slide all the way in under the bar and over the shifter pod to make the remote clamp as outboard as possible (flush against shifter clamp). Works like a dream like this and this is how I have always ran my remotes (right side remotes inverted and ran on the left under the bars) so the remote is more inline with my front der. shifter and intuitive like shifting gears.
    Last edited by jgusta; 11-06-2010 at 01:06 PM.
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  56. #56
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    I got mine installed last night the travel is about perfect, it is completely in the frame for my full extension so I would need a shorter frame to have anything more.

    Line was easy to cut, sure would have been nice if sram gave any real directions with it.

    Still need some fine tuning of the line routing, might work that out tonight.

  57. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by jgusta
    Except this post doesn't click to confirm adjusting like my beloved 4" GD post did and is much slower. I needed at least a 5" adj. post so went with the Reverb. Knowing what I know now, I should of probably just got the 5" classic GD post in a 31.6mm direct from GD.
    If your post is slow, please see the BMJ's instructions in the 1st post for a remedy. Have you tried those steps? It's actually a very simple fix. The post is much faster (more than fast enough for me) once these steps are performed.
    Gotta get up to get down.
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  58. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by dvo1
    I got mine installed last night the travel is about perfect, it is completely in the frame for my full extension so I would need a shorter frame to have anything more.

    Line was easy to cut, sure would have been nice if sram gave any real directions with it.

    Still need some fine tuning of the line routing, might work that out tonight.
    Yeah, that's why I created this thread and posted those instructions. Some good detective work by some of our forum members unearthed them on the RockShox website (it's the same hydraulic remote as some of the higher end forks). They really need those in the box. Not sure how they dropped the ball on something so obvious.

    Ah well, at least it is even easier than shortening a hydraulic brake line. It really was super simple, and I like that there were no barbs/olives to worry about buying/finding/dropping/losing/getting eaten by dogs.

    I'm glad my frame came with the cable routing for the adjustable seatpost. I like that more manufacturers are starting to do this standard and even spec adjustable seatposts on some bikes. I can't wait till they start speccing Reverbs on complete bikes instead of Joplins. I think every modern frame needs the seatpost cable routing now. I really think you'll see more and more (except with the weight weenie crowd) now that the adjustable seatpost has gone through most of its growing pains. A post like the Reverb is exactly what I've been looking for and why I've waiting to jump on the bandwagon until now.

    Nice 25th anniversary 575 BTW.
    What pedals are those? They look super thin. Those teal pedals and chainring look pretty awesome on that build. Nice work.
    Last edited by BaeckerX1; 10-29-2010 at 09:00 AM.
    Gotta get up to get down.
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  59. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by BaeckerX1
    Yeah, that's why I created this thread and posted those instructions. Some good detective work by some of our forum members unearthed them on the RockShox website (it's the same hydraulic remote as some of the higher end forks). They really need those in the box. Not sure how they dropped the ball on something so obvious.

    Ah well, at least it is even easier than shortening a hydraulic brake line. It really was super simple, and I like that there were no barbs/olives to worry about buying/finding/dropping/losing/getting eaten by dogs.

    I'm glad my frame came with the cable routing for the adjustable seatpost. I like that more manufacturers are starting to do this standard and even spec adjustable seatposts on some bikes. I can't wait till they start speccing Reverbs on complete bikes instead of Joplins. I think every modern frame needs the seatpost cable routing now. I really think you'll see more and more (except with the weight weenie crowd) now that the adjustable seatpost has gone through most of its growing pains. A post like the Reverb is exactly what I've been looking for and why I've waiting to jump on the bandwagon until now.

    Nice 25th anniversary 575 BTW.
    What pedals are those? They look super thin. Those teal pedals and chainring look pretty awesome on that build. Nice work.
    Cannondale Jekyll one and ultimate have them standard. I'm not sure you can get either one of them yet as they are 2011 models. I'm not a fan of those CB wheels, but the adj seatpost is nice
    Lead by my Lefty............... right down the trail, no brakes.

  60. #60
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    I'm lovin my new reverb, especially how it doesn't punch me in the grundle like my gravity dropper did.
    I was stoked that bleeding ,cutting line, and installing went breezy.
    So... how would I go about regreasing my reverb?
    Which grease would go where?

  61. #61
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    Using a Bike Stand with a Reverb

    I haven't wanted to clamp to the telescoping part of the seat post; When I need to put the bike on a stand I push the seatpost all the way down and then raise the stem to the minimum insertion point and clamp to it. Otherwise, to do a quick drive train check, I'll suspend the bike on the stand by the seat.

    Otherwise, I've been leaning my bike against everything; and had it fall over a couple of times while I was messing with it (e.g, putting air in the tires).

    This morning, I figured out a better way, which will allow me to do some of the maintenance on the bike without clamping by the seat post;

    Hold it by the handlebar... Just leave the tires in contact with the ground and it's actually quite stable.

    Edited in response to BaeckerX1 (below); Link to a better picture of work space: http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1309/...c5cce39e_b.jpg

    Last edited by MarkHL; 11-01-2010 at 06:46 PM.

  62. #62
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    Nice workspace MarkHL. I'm jealous.
    Gotta get up to get down.
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  63. #63
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    Does anyone come from a KS950r? I'am looking into one of this two.

    Thx

  64. #64
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    Am i missing something with regards to the speed dial adjustment? If i turn to full slow, or even close to it, the post will not go down. If i put the post down (by keeping it at full fast initially), then dial in to full slow it will not return. It will start to make it ways back up if i hold the button as i dial back to fast.
    What gives?
    Given what i have experienced it seem to render the dial pretty much useless.
    My post originally had air in the system and had to be bled (was sent to SRAM although had i k own this was what was going on i would done it myself) and i was hoping that wopuld fix this.
    On a side note...Anyone have a RIGHT (drive) side lever they would want to trade for my left side?
    I am no longer running a front der and would like to mount the lever upside down near my left grip.

  65. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by MarkHL
    I haven't wanted to clamp to the telescoping part of the seat post; When I need to put the bike on a stand I push the seatpost all the way down and then raise the stem to the minimum insertion point and clamp to it. Otherwise, to do a quick drive train check, I'll suspend the bike on the stand by the seat.

    Otherwise, I've been leaning my bike against everything; and had it fall over a couple of times while I was messing with it (e.g, putting air in the tires).

    This morning, I figured out a better way, which will allow me to do some of the maintenance on the bike without clamping by the seat post;

    Hold it by the handlebar... Just leave the tires in contact with the ground and it's actually quite stable.

    Since I put my KSi950r on my bike. I turned the head of my stand and clamp on to the top tube.

    I'm new at this so is clamping the TT a bad idea for some reason.
    I have a Trance X and soon a Giant Glory will be in mine as well.

  66. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by DWill
    Since I put my KSi950r on my bike. I turned the head of my stand and clamp on to the top tube.

    I'm new at this so is clamping the TT a bad idea for some reason.
    I have a Trance X and soon a Giant Glory will be in mine as well.
    It's not a good idea to clamp the TT. Most manufactures would only recommend seat post clamping.
    Last edited by mimi1885; 10-31-2010 at 02:33 PM.

  67. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by cskolnick
    Am i missing something with regards to the speed dial adjustment? If i turn to full slow, or even close to it, the post will not go down. If i put the post down (by keeping it at full fast initially), then dial in to full slow it will not return. It will start to make it ways back up if i hold the button as i dial back to fast.
    What gives?
    Given what i have experienced it seem to render the dial pretty much useless.
    My post originally had air in the system and had to be bled (was sent to SRAM although had i k own this was what was going on i would done it myself) and i was hoping that wopuld fix this.
    On a side note...Anyone have a RIGHT (drive) side lever they would want to trade for my left side?
    I am no longer running a front der and would like to mount the lever upside down near my left grip.
    Did you read the first post in the thread? Turn your remote all the way to full slow, top it off with oil with the included syringe. That should speed things up. Full slow though is always going to be PAINFULLY slow, but it should still move. Mine was super slow out of the box, until I shortened my line.

    I really think they need to put it in the manual that you need to bleed it on the full slow setting to get a usable post. BMJ saved me the trial and error on that one or I would have been beating my head against the wall for a little while till I figured that out.
    Gotta get up to get down.
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  68. #68
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    Last edited by jgusta; 11-06-2010 at 01:08 PM.
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  69. #69
    BMJ
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    That's a shame. Mine was doing the same with the rocker on my WFO. I put a 6" piece of rubber fuel line over mine with zip ties where they contact not only to protect the hose from damage but also to fatten it up so the rocker will push it aside rather than eat it.

    I will say, the line can be a little ornary with what it does under compression.

  70. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by BMJ
    That's a shame. Mine was doing the same with the rocker on my WFO. I put a 6" piece of rubber fuel line over mine with zip ties where they contact not only to protect the hose from damage but also to fatten it up so the rocker will push it aside rather than eat it.

    I will say, the line can be a little ornary with what it does under compression.
    Good suggestion, but unfortunately it is not soley cause the cable/rocker interference that I have decided to sell it. It is also cause I usually end up having to manually adjust my seatpost some, everytime I go down beyond the 5" adjustment for climbing to full-on descend mode due to slacker ST angles on my bike. An infinitement 6" adj post would be the "shizz" for my bike and riding style at least (longish, steep ass climbs to railer descents). An adj. seatpost is a necessity for general trail riding with mixed terrain though.
    Ride On!

  71. #71
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    Just received this from SRAM tech support. This will be on their website within a week or so:

    Reverb Bleed Instructions:

    1) turn speed dial to full slow (full CCW)
    2) fill a syringe about ľ full of 2.5 wt oil
    3) connect syringe to remote bleed port
    4) while pulling vacuum with syringe, push remote button in
    5) apply positive pressure on syringe, remote button should come all the way out
    6) repeat steps 4 and 5 10 times or until no more air is being pulled out
    7) finish procedure with a push, remove syringe and install bleed screw
    8) adjust speed dial to preferred setting

    Reverb Hose Shortening Instructions:

    1) turn speed dial to full slow (full CCW)
    2) cut hose at remote end, not post end
    3) remove extra hose from remote (grab hose with pliers, smack pliers with hammer or cut with utility knife)
    4) cut hose to length, press hose onto barb while twisting until fully seated
    5) adjust speed dial to preferred setting
    6) should not need to bleed remote if you follow these instructions

  72. #72
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    FYI - I just installed my Reverb. There was so much air in the line I ended up bleeding using a syringe at both ends. Now, the action is fast & smoove. I would recommend this to anyone, it's so easy to do and why not ensure that you are getting full performance.

  73. #73
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    Just received my Reverb from UC the other day and as someone who's never used an adjustable seatpost before, all I can say is......Niiiiiice I've only been riding for about a year and a half and having the ability to change the height on the fly even helps out a lame rider like me. The price might be hard to swallow at first but I think it's worth having one.


    As for my experience with the Reverb, so far so good. Purchased the 31.6MM x 380MM post and out of the box, the unit needed a quick bleed as described by BMJ, (thanks guys! Having read your posts beforehand, I wasn't so concerned when I couldn't fully compress it at first).

    Having read some of the difficulties with the routing of the hydraulic line upon compressing the seat, I had an idea about allowing the tubing to move forward towards the front of the bike. Through several trial and errors, I stumbled upon this present setup and it's been working great so far.




    As you can see in the photos and videos, I routed the line along the left side of the TT and used two of the cable couplers that comes with the Reverb to route the tubing along the front derailleur cable and through the shock mount. Note, the coupler piece slides easily on both the Reverb tubing and FD cables.

    I wrapped a piece of ducktape on the RD cable towards the seat tube as the coupler likes to move forward upon compression, this keeps it close to the bend and prevents the Reverb tubing from bowing out and away from the frame during compression.




    The front coupler simply keeps the cables tidy. You can see it stays with the Reverb cable and slides on the RD cable in the video.


    Don't laugh but since the tubing seems to move pretty consistently forward, I added a piece of tape as a "gauge" or "Meter" that gives me an idea where the post is. Yes, its probably silly as your butt will be the first and foremost thing to tell you where your post is positioned but I'm enjoying the ability to take a glance to quickly find my 'preset' favorite postion.(picture shows full extension. One of my fav in between height is when the blue tape just reaches the Lefty bracket. Full Compression shows up on the front edge of the bracket)



    I'll have to keep an eye out if there are any rubbing/chafing issues on the cable as well but it seems like it'll be okay so far. Before I received and mounted the Reverb, I was worried about the pull of the cable towards the front of the bike with this silly idea and had thought of ways to utilize a spring or rubber band on the cable(pulling slightly forward on the cable). Luckily, I have had no need for any assistance in having the cable move forward as it seems the cable is actually being 'pushed' forward.

    As for mounting the remote, I wish I could mount the right side lever on the bottom of the left side for better crash survivability but with the brake lever, FD shifter and the rather quick to thicken handlebars, it just isn't going to happen. For the time being, I mounted my Incredibell right next to the remote to offer whatever protection it can provide. Doubt it'll help much on a hard impact that hits 'just right' but I could at least flip the bike over and not worry about resting it on the remote.


    PS, be carefull when you cut the line I had to perform a full bleed using both syringes as I baptized myself and the dining room with suspension oil when I cut the tubing and forgot to anticipate the curled tension Take it from someone who's never bled anything on a bicycle, it's a piece of cake. Believe me, cleaning up the line of oil across my dining room was a lot more difficult.

    As others have mentioned, only time will tell how the Reverb performs reliability wise but I'm pretty happy with my purchase.

    A tip that you all probably know. I'm not sure of the availability of the unit but if your looking to pick one up and can't find it, I simply signed up for Universal Cycle's "back in stock" notices on the post and simply purchased it 3 hours after receiving the email msg using the 15% discount. As others have mentioned, make sure to add another small item to push the total over $300 to qualify for the 15% discount.

    Thanks!

    -Chris
    Last edited by Tuff Gong; 11-03-2010 at 06:39 PM.

  74. #74
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    pic

    would you mind posting a pic of your full bike, need to see how it looks with the reverb/silver part set closest to the seat tube clamp
    thanks

  75. #75
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    jgusta, I appreciate your desire to sell your Reverb, but do you really need 2 spam posts in this thread? This is meant to be an informational thread. It would be nice for people not to have to dig through spam posts. Buy an ad and sell in the classifieds. Seriously.
    Gotta get up to get down.
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  76. #76
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    Sorry to disturb your precious informative thread under the general title of RS Reverb. I just wanted to correct that it is a 30.9 instead of a 31.6 like I stated previously since I have already received a couple of PM's about interest if it was a 31.6 due to my error.

    That's all and chill out, man. I plan to pay and classify with mtbr once I am not at work, not riding and can clean the post and take and upload pics. Sorry if I wasted anybody's time with this.
    Ride On!

  77. #77
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    Why not just edit your original post? I just thought it odd you had to post it twice. There was a second post there with the same information as the first (it's gone now apparently). I didn't care about the first one.

    No need to get all bent man. I'm chill, are you? Anyway, good luck selling yours. Sorry it didn't work out. I'm surprised you couldn't make it work on the Rune. Some people have come up with some pretty creative cable routing schemes.
    Gotta get up to get down.
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  78. #78
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    No prob, my bad, didn't realize I could post an add without pics. Posted again cause I was chapped I stated it was a 31.6, not a 30.9 by my error and wanted to give others a "head's up" if interested, since a lot of places are out or don't carry most sizes.

    http://classifieds.mtbr.com/showprod...t=57018&cat=18
    Ride On!

  79. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by highrustler

    Reverb Bleed Instructions....
    Great information, I'd already bled mine once, but this technique really made a difference.

    A previous post mentioned putting the syringe at the post bleed screw; this time I bled from the actuator. Much easier at this location to put a suction on the syringe, hold it with one hand and then push the actuator with the other. It took about 3-4 times before the bubbles stopping coming out. I immediately knew something had changed when my seat post would now actuate in the full CCW (slow) position. In the full fast (CW) position the rise rate has probably doubled in speed. Apart from the speed, I now have better modulation control over the rise rate based on how far I push in the button. Thanx for the post.

  80. #80
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    Received 2 Reverbs yesterday, one for me and one for my wife. Have installed one, needed to bleed the remote line but after that it's working great. I'm very pleased with the initial quality and ease of adjustment. As long as it holds up I think this will be money well spent.

  81. #81
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    outside outfitters has them for $236 shipped. (supposedly) in stock.

    https://www.outsideoutfitters.com/p-...-seatpost.aspx

    just ordered mine, will see how it compares to my kind shock.
    hopefully I get the right hand remote so I can mount it on the left side under the bar where my shifters used to be

  82. #82
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    Totally beautiful post. If anyone owns one of these and goes to a different brand they need a slapping!

  83. #83
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    Tuff Gong... First time I had a chance to view your pictures and video because my work blocks image sites and my main home computer was down with a failed HDD (installed a new Patriot 120GB SSD with SandForce for the boot drive and OMFG is it fast).

    Anyway, I like how you got your cable to route and move toward the front. Very clever. You don't have any cable loop to worry about. I also think the little piece of tape as an indicator is a nice touch. Good work.
    Gotta get up to get down.
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  84. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by highrustler
    Just received this from SRAM tech support. This will be on their website within a week or so:

    Reverb Bleed Instructions:

    ...
    Thanks for the tip! Should have came in the instructions with the post.

    I got mine (30.9, 380mm) Wednesday afternoon from the LBS (they ordered for me, 15% off list, which I think is fair), riding that evening! Worked out of the box, but only on the fast setting.

    Just bled now, first time bleeding anything besides auto brakes, went smoothly thanks to these instructions. Full adjustment range from fast to slow after bleeding.

    My first adjustable post, and was using it all the time Wednesday evening on some new unfamiliar single track, at night with lights. Will go for a ride on my home trail tomorrow, looking forward to lowering on the tech sections for better balance and speed.

    One issue for me - got it in my frame all the way to the nut, and is a bit too high at full extension. I just adjust to maybe 1/2 inch lower, and all is good. Very EZ to do with the remote. From other posts, looks like no way around this.

    I rate 5 stars at this point, we'll see how it holds up after a few more rides!


    dave
    08 575

  85. #85
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    got mine to fit

    using a duo of formula oro brakes and sram xo shifters i was able to get my rh remote to fit under the bars on the left side. i'm not sure how much the brakes really matter for clearance but the xo shifters have an adjustable position lever that allows you to move it slightly to not interfere with the remote. i like having my shifters angled up as well which seem to give my thumbs better leverage, and creates an open area between the bars and shifter in which to fit the remote. This setup tucks everything away nicely while providing what i feel to be a better ergonomic location.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails RockShox Reverb Thread-sam_2701.jpg  

    RockShox Reverb Thread-sam_2702.jpg  

    RockShox Reverb Thread-sam_2704.jpg  


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    hate to burst everyones bubble but I have developed some play in my post. The actual post (not the seat or clamp ) have some movement after about 3 weeks of use. even my joplins never did that. I still think this is a superior post to the others, but there is def. something wrong with it. My wife's seems to be working ok, probably my clumsy freeride light riding style. I did land shitily on a gap the other day and came down on the seat pretty hard.

  87. #87
    I'm more of a dog person
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    i'm don't know if i'd consider that bursting everyone's bubble, it just sounds like you may have managed to break yours.

  88. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by supercusty
    hate to burst everyones bubble but I have developed some play in my post. The actual post (not the seat or clamp ) have some movement after about 3 weeks of use. even my joplins never did that. I still think this is a superior post to the others, but there is def. something wrong with it. My wife's seems to be working ok, probably my clumsy freeride light riding style. I did land shitily on a gap the other day and came down on the seat pretty hard.
    may i ask, how heavy do you weigh?

  89. #89
    Fence guru
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    180 lbs I ride an lt carbon it still works fine there is just a small amour of play in the post now

  90. #90
    meow meow
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    Quote Originally Posted by unclekittykiller
    i'm don't know if i'd consider that bursting everyone's bubble, it just sounds like you may have managed to break yours.

    yeah sounds like you just tweaked something.

  91. #91
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    Is there a model with an offset. Im using a laid/set back Tompson seatpost and if i will replace it with a "straight" , not set back one, it will feel ackward (im use to a laid back seatpost)

  92. #92
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    I've snapped something inside the remote lever, after 2 mins of use. Yes, I read the instructions, and angled the lever down so that it wouldn't stick out above the level of the bars. Turned the bike upside down, and there was an audible cracking sound. Now the remote lever has no resistance, and no longer works, pulling it in or out, it sounds like fluid/air are mixing. Anyone have any idea what has snapped, the piston head perhaps, and if spares are available.

    The lever itself seems really flimsy, compared to say a shifter or brake lever. I cant see how it would ever survive a crash.

  93. #93
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    I took apart the lever, and as I suspected the piston head has broken off from the shaft which connects it to the button. The head is stuck inside the bore, can't see any way to get it out. Perhaps connecting it to a brake lever and some hose to put back pressure in would push the piston out...

  94. #94
    How do I do that?
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    Quote Originally Posted by highaltitude
    I took apart the lever, and as I suspected the piston head has broken off from the shaft which connects it to the button. The head is stuck inside the bore, can't see any way to get it out. Perhaps connecting it to a brake lever and some hose to put back pressure in would push the piston out...
    Or tap into the bleed port with the syringe and give it a push? Make sure you don't apply such pressure while your in your dining room
    Last edited by Tuff Gong; 11-08-2010 at 06:38 PM.

  95. #95
    How do I do that?
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    Quote Originally Posted by BaeckerX1
    Tuff Gong... First time I had a chance to view your pictures and video because my work blocks image sites and my main home computer was down with a failed HDD (installed a new Patriot 120GB SSD with SandForce for the boot drive and OMFG is it fast).

    Anyway, I like how you got your cable to route and move toward the front. Very clever. You don't have any cable loop to worry about. I also think the little piece of tape as an indicator is a nice touch. Good work.
    Thanks man I've been really enjoying this 'adjustable post' thing so far. Just like with suspensions, I am forever spoiled.

    It's only been a week but it's been good. I'm not sure if I'll keep the present remote position but I seem to regularly use the little 'indicator' tape on the tubing I would have never thought of 'wanting' the remote closer to my thumb but I seem to adjust my height quite often.

    Hmm, I might have a poke at trying UncleKitty's method but I have a feeling it won't work with X & Juicy Sevens.

  96. #96
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    are you folks running this shock using friction paste? If so, did it come with it?

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    Quote Originally Posted by highrustler
    FYI - I just installed my Reverb. There was so much air in the line I ended up bleeding using a syringe at both ends. Now, the action is fast & smoove. I would recommend this to anyone, it's so easy to do and why not ensure that you are getting full performance.
    how do you bleed using two syringes? I see that there is only one bleeding port

  98. #98
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    it now doesnt decompress after i rebleed,
    There seem to be a never ending strand of bubbles coming out from the cable,.

  99. #99
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tuff Gong
    Or tap into the bleed port with the syringe and give it a push? Make sure you don't apply such pressure while your in your dining room
    Thanks a lot, this was easy and obvious really. This is what the insides look like:
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails RockShox Reverb Thread-reverb-xloc-remote-lever-1.jpg  


  100. #100
    How do I do that?
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hydesg
    how do you bleed using two syringes? I see that there is only one bleeding port

    Hyde, the second port is on the side of the post at the top. I believe you hook up both syringes(filled with some oil) into there respective bleed ports, remote&seatpost, and take turns pushing one syringe into one another. I believe the idea is to push airless fluid from one syringe into the tubing as it pushes the oil and whatever air inside to the other syringe and you repeat the process back and forth till you see no more air bubbles(keep syringes upright). Make sure your speed adjustment is twisted out(slow) on the remote when you bleed it and def have a rag handy.

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