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  1. #2701
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    Quote Originally Posted by BPH View Post
    Hey. Hoping for a little advice. I have read the whole thread and nothing matches my problem!

    My standard reverb has had very little use, is 6 month old and performs perfectly, EXCEPT....

    ...when the post is dropped for the first time, it won't drop smoothly. It's almost like it's stuck. It needs a small bump/wiggle to help it drop. Once that's done, it drops fine, and extends fine, then drops again absolutely fine, until it's been extended fully for about half an hour, and the issue repeats itself.

    Any ideas? It's only a niggling small problem, but certainly one that wasn't there at the beginning of its time!
    What happens if you adjust remote to a slowest setting? If its getting worse bleeding of the cable should help.

    Sent from my SM-G900F

  2. #2702
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    ^^^Yes. It's also possible to over-tighten the post clamp so it restricts movement of the post. Check the clamp torque. I believe the spec is 6.7 Nm (60 in-lb) max.
    Do the math.

  3. #2703
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    My reverb is much better after partial cleanup/regrease (was not able to remove lower cup, so no way to get into upper dust cover, need vice jaws thing for 9.5mm tube). No single "got stuck" situation on today ride.
    I guess I will get vice jaws and will do dropper cleanup/regrease from time to time as shown in the video below. Then it will be time to do "service kit" thing.
    https://youtu.be/NfFRlpCpU3s


    Sent from my SM-G900F

  4. #2704
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lone Rager View Post
    ^^^Yes. It's also possible to over-tighten the post clamp so it restricts movement of the post. Check the clamp torque. I believe the spec is 6.7 Nm (60 in-lb) max.
    That might be spec, but on my bike, anything over 3nm and it binds.
    Alcohol may lead nowhere, but it sure is the scenic route!

  5. #2705
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    ^^^ Yeah. It can be clamp dependent. Not saying this is your issues, but if a slot in the seatpost lines up with the slot in the clamp, it can really dig into the post. Arranging them so they don't line up can help. This is usually the default arrangement for use with carbon seatpost. Sometime they're 180 degrees apart but in some cases the seat tube may have two slots (Trek, for one) and the clamp slot is equidistant between the two.
    Do the math.

  6. #2706
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    Quote Originally Posted by BPH View Post
    Hey. Hoping for a little advice. I have read the whole thread and nothing matches my problem!

    My standard reverb has had very little use, is 6 month old and performs perfectly, EXCEPT....

    ...when the post is dropped for the first time, it won't drop smoothly. It's almost like it's stuck. It needs a small bump/wiggle to help it drop. Once that's done, it drops fine, and extends fine, then drops again absolutely fine, until it's been extended fully for about half an hour, and the issue repeats itself.

    Any ideas? It's only a niggling small problem, but certainly one that wasn't there at the beginning of its time!
    it might be that you have an issue with the brass inserts since you wiggle your post before being able to put the post down. better make an appointment with a service or you can do it on your own with the right tools and instruction from sram via youtube.

  7. #2707
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    Question about the process to rebuild the Reverb stealth:

    Pulled it apart last night for the first time to reset the IFP, oil and all that because I was sagging. I had to make my own IFP oil height gauge using one of my remote bleed syringes and a piece of aquarium air hosing. With my Reverb, my height it supposed to be 186.5mm. Fine no problem. But what I found is I couldn't get the tubing far down enough in the shaft to get the full 186.5. I was off by 4 or 5mm. I double checked and this is because the diameter of the hosing is too wide to fit through the blue 'thing' that presses into the IFP tube. I'll have to source a slimmer tube. I reassembled anyway just because I was at my wit's end. At the end of the day, the post is solid and seems to work fine....not trail tested yet.

    So how critical is that oil height? SRAM makes it look like it has to be on the money exactly.
    2000 Giant DH Team
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  8. #2708
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    Quote Originally Posted by Christopher Robin View Post
    Question about the process to rebuild the Reverb stealth:

    Pulled it apart last night for the first time to reset the IFP, oil and all that because I was sagging. I had to make my own IFP oil height gauge using one of my remote bleed syringes and a piece of aquarium air hosing. With my Reverb, my height it supposed to be 186.5mm. Fine no problem. But what I found is I couldn't get the tubing far down enough in the shaft to get the full 186.5. I was off by 4 or 5mm. I double checked and this is because the diameter of the hosing is too wide to fit through the blue 'thing' that presses into the IFP tube. I'll have to source a slimmer tube. I reassembled anyway just because I was at my wit's end. At the end of the day, the post is solid and seems to work fine....not trail tested yet.

    So how critical is that oil height? SRAM makes it look like it has to be on the money exactly.
    Ive got a proper oil height gauge and it only ever picks up small dregs of oil. The first few times I actually poured some oil in so the gauge had something to suck up but found it wasn't necessary. I don't think it needs to be that accurate. The best test is a working post.

  9. #2709
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    Quote Originally Posted by niva1989 View Post
    Ive got a proper oil height gauge and it only ever picks up small dregs of oil. The first few times I actually poured some oil in so the gauge had something to suck up but found it wasn't necessary. I don't think it needs to be that accurate. The best test is a working post.
    Perfect good to know. I didn't get a chance to try it out on the trail but the post seems to working fine. Thanks.
    2000 Giant DH Team
    2003 Balfa BB7
    2004 Nicolai Nuclean ST
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  10. #2710
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    Quote Originally Posted by BPH View Post
    Hey. Hoping for a little advice. I have read the whole thread and nothing matches my problem!

    My standard reverb has had very little use, is 6 month old and performs perfectly, EXCEPT....

    ...when the post is dropped for the first time, it won't drop smoothly. It's almost like it's stuck. It needs a small bump/wiggle to help it drop. Once that's done, it drops fine, and extends fine, then drops again absolutely fine, until it's been extended fully for about half an hour, and the issue repeats itself.

    Any ideas? It's only a niggling small problem, but certainly one that wasn't there at the beginning of its time!
    Did you find a solution?

    I have the same issue, ill check the post collar to see if that helps.

    new , 4 months old reverb 170mm

  11. #2711
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    Will there be issues when a bike with a Reverb seatpost is stored upside down (hanging)? Thanks!

  12. #2712
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    My bike spends a fair bit of time upside down but resting on the seat. It's good for your fork bushings and seals and I've never had it cause issue with the reverb.

  13. #2713
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    Quote Originally Posted by niva1989 View Post
    My bike spends a fair bit of time upside down but resting on the seat. It's good for your fork bushings and seals and I've never had it cause issue with the reverb.
    Good to hear, thank you!

  14. #2714
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    duplicate
    "I cycle so I don't choke People"
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  15. #2715
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    So reading through here, it seems the sag is present even in the *Updated* model. I have the opportunity to get a good deal on one, cheaper than I can get any of the other External offerings out. Should I hold out, and Get a Fox or Thomson or will this be a reliable option. I noticed mention of using a RH remote vs a LH, and I may of missed an explanation of why skimming through here, so what is the benefit from this? I also read about replacing the u-cup seal with an o-ring, where can the o-ring needed be purchased from? And did anyone replace the Teflon bushing with a polymer made version of it, besides the guy in this blog, The Seatpost Whisperer | Blue Liquid Labs

    Granted I wont do any of the Maint related aspects unless its needed or warranty expired. Just educating myself.
    "I cycle so I don't choke People"
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  16. #2716
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    Quote Originally Posted by TeamRWB View Post
    So reading through here, it seems the sag is present even in the *Updated* model. I have the opportunity to get a good deal on one, cheaper than I can get any of the other External offerings out. Should I hold out, and Get a Fox or Thomson or will this be a reliable option. I noticed mention of using a RH remote vs a LH, and I may of missed an explanation of why skimming through here, so what is the benefit from this? I also read about replacing the u-cup seal with an o-ring, where can the o-ring needed be purchased from? And did anyone replace the Teflon bushing with a polymer made version of it, besides the guy in this blog, The Seatpost Whisperer | Blue Liquid Labs

    Granted I wont do any of the Maint related aspects unless its needed or warranty expired. Just educating myself.
    Don't know anything about your seal question (which I'll look into as well since I'm always looking for things to make the Reverb more reliable), but using the RH remote vs the LH is personal preference: Using the RH remote on the left side places the plunger below the handlebar so it's easier to access with your thumb. This is also providing you don't have a front derailleur.

    Edit. After reading that article, I'd also like to know what size that seal is.
    Last edited by Christopher Robin; 2 Weeks Ago at 07:26 PM.

  17. #2717
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    I am selling my bike and thinking I should take the reverb with me and put in the giant one I am buying from the 2nd hand giant bike.

    Good idea?

    giant - https://www.giant-bicycles.com/us/trance-27dot5-1-2014

    nukeproof - Help me identify what is on my bike and price it for sale

    I like the reverb and it looks like a better seatdropper.

    Will they swap out?

  18. #2718
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    Hello?

    RockShox Reverb Thread-s1600_ewsroto17_x2_9448.jpg

  19. #2719
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    Quote Originally Posted by RS VR6 View Post
    Hello?

    Click image for larger version. 

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    you beat me to it

    in any case, i can't see it in sram site nor google results
    Canfield Yelli Screamy

  20. #2720
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    Could make an appearance at Sea Otter. That's where SRAM typically shows off new stuff.

  21. #2721
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    Please have an external option!

    Sent from the Beer Cloud
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  22. #2722
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    b1 still has external just up to 125 only
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  23. #2723
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    Quote Originally Posted by Christopher Robin View Post
    Edit. After reading that article, I'd also like to know what size that seal is.
    I think that the O-ring is the same size as in externally routed reverb (3.5x9mm see RockShox Reverb Thread post #2211 ).

    I just rebuilt one stealth and replaced the U-cup with O-ring.
    The stealth U-cup was 10x15x4 and replacing O-ring 9.12x3.53 (couldn't source the 3.5x9).
    Unfortunately I don't currently have a frame with stealth routing (planning on drilling my 2011 specialized enduro), but compressing by hand, it appears to be working just fine. More testing when I get it into frame.


    Quote Originally Posted by TeamRWB View Post
    Please have an external option!

    Sent from the Beer Cloud
    I don't see why it wouldn't work with externally routed as the current remotes in stealth and external are identical per revision (see rockshox spare parts manual 2017_rockshox_spc_rev_b.pdf , there are separate remotes for A1 and A2, but not for stealth/non-stealth)

    The above image is from Vital MTB and there is some more info on the comments.
    For example, the product page apparently exists, but is not allowed to access: https://www.sram.com/rockshox/products/reverb-1x-remote

    I am mainly waiting for the price, as with the current remote price I rather buy another DeHy kit to convert the post to wire controlled than expensive but different hydraulic.

    Maybe the new construction will prevent the wear and leaking of the piston. (current design has only plastic bushing and there is usually sideload when pressing the remote)

  24. #2724
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    Quote Originally Posted by RS VR6 View Post
    Hello?

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I want one!! The original actuator is the thing I dislike the most on the Reverbs.

  25. #2725
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    I have successfully fixed the sag! I tore the entire seatpost apart and rebuilt it. I did use new IFP's, but was careful to make sure the oil was at the proper level. Thanks for everyone on this thread for all the helpful suggestions. We'll see how long this lasts!

    A few notes:
    My original IFP was pretty far down the tube. enough where the zip tie's wouldn't work. I ended up using 2 old spokes to 'hook' the IFP and used pliers to pull the thing out. Worked well.

    It would help to have the specific vice clamps (10mm), but I used the yellow rubber ones and they worked 'okay'.

    Once again, thank you to SRAM for making great videos. I literally just followed along.

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  26. #2726
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    I'm switching from a left hand lever to a right hand lever mounted underneath on the left hand side. I've read I can do this without bleeding. Is that correct? Also, I'm assuming the new lever and cable will require trimming?

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