Page 54 of 56 FirstFirst ... 44450515253545556 LastLast
Results 2,651 to 2,700 of 2755
  1. #2651
    mtbr member
    Reputation: spyghost's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    892

    RockShox Reverb Thread

    ok, i peeked under the post and it was damp with oil - the scent as well. the oil is present around and in the valve.

    the pressure was just around 180psi. i bumped it up to 250. upon release, some oil and air spurted out. re checking the pressure it was down to 225. i bumped it around 275 and released. rechecking it was now 250. repeat.

    there's still a barely noticeable squish that's just around 3mm by arm force. not enough to be felt by the a$$ but by the hand when pushed down.

    this still warrants a rebuild though... the 400h kit perhaps but i dont really know how many hours i've spent here. for certain it's a year of weekend rides that's 5-8 hours/wk. and yea it's approaching the 400th hr mark of use. not a bad estimate by SRAM/RS imo.

    i wonder if the blue ifp prolongs service interval (i doubt). given the presence of oil i reckon this is more of the rings in the internal seal head and the air shaft.

    got an idea (not sure if this has been mentioned somewhere)....
    reduce air pressure to a value that will provide the desired return speed with the remote all the way to +... thoughts?
    Last edited by spyghost; 12-08-2016 at 11:28 PM.
    Canfield Yelli Screamy

  2. #2652
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Posts
    29
    I think that there is always just a little oil inside reverb air chamber.
    In the rebuild process the tube is full of oil when IFP is inserted and after the piston is inserted, the excess oil is just poured out. Thus some oil always remains in the air side of the IFP tube.

    The 25psi drop is probably due to your pump, i.e. it lowers the total pressure when the pump/hose is pressurized, as total volume increases.
    You can try to verify this by screwing in the pump and just before it is deep enough to open the valve, you pump some pressure inside the pump hose, then screw it in to open the valve.

  3. #2653
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Posts
    3

    RockShox Reverb Remote O ring

    I found a direct replacement for the O ring inside the remote. There are 2 O rings. One inside the slow / fast adjustment for which I do not have a replacement for, this one sees little work and likely never wears out.

    The other slides up and down when you push the button and does wear out. If your seat moves slowly, you need to bleed the remote. If you have to bleed more often than you wish, you need to replace this O ring.


    It is a quad O ring, it has 4 sealing wipers. Two on the riding surface of the piston. So, I ordered it from McMaster Carr and they shipped me O rings from Orings Inc in California. Orings Inc does not have this listed on their web site. The size is: 1.5mm x 3.5mm ID BN70 Quad

    10 O rings for around $11

  4. #2654
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Lone Rager's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Posts
    1,925
    Quote Originally Posted by spyghost View Post
    ...i bumped it up to 250. upon release, some oil and air spurted out. re checking the pressure it was down to 225. i bumped it around 275 and released. rechecking it was now 250. repeat....
    When you attach a pump or gauge to shock or seatpost, it will always read less than what was in the shock or post due to the air that is needed to pressurize the pump or gauge. If the valve and pump are working correctly, when you pumped it up to 250 and took the pump off, it was still at 250 in the post. As soon as you attached the pump again, air was let out to pressurize the pump and it read lower than what was actually in the post.
    Do the math.

  5. #2655
    May contain nuts
    Reputation: Haggis's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    2,031
    Quote Originally Posted by Mike_1969_cb450 View Post
    I found a direct replacement for the O ring inside the remote. There are 2 O rings. One inside the slow / fast adjustment for which I do not have a replacement for, this one sees little work and likely never wears out.

    The other slides up and down when you push the button and does wear out. If your seat moves slowly, you need to bleed the remote. If you have to bleed more often than you wish, you need to replace this O ring.


    It is a quad O ring, it has 4 sealing wipers. Two on the riding surface of the piston. So, I ordered it from McMaster Carr and they shipped me O rings from Orings Inc in California. Orings Inc does not have this listed on their web site. The size is: 1.5mm x 3.5mm ID BN70 Quad

    10 O rings for around $11
    Great info

  6. #2656
    mtbr member
    Reputation: spyghost's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    892
    q on vise blocks for air shaft...

    those who have rebuilt a reverb, did you use sram's brass vise block? i find the price too steep at around $45 on the average.


    compared to these which costs only at around $10-15. i find these more suitable 'price-wise' that is...



    which among the 3 alternatives above is safe for the air shaft of the reverb?

    yes i know that it has to do with the clamping force, but of course material choice also has to do with it... plastic (yellow), nylon (black), or aluminum (silver)
    Canfield Yelli Screamy

  7. #2657
    mtbr member
    Reputation: PabloGT's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Posts
    120
    My 150mm 6 month old stealth has started sagging 10mm or so at the top and squidy when down by a similar amount. Unsure what revision it is, but I'd guess an A1 or 2. I've bled it and checked the pressure and it made no difference to the sag. I remember reading the earlier models you could put a little oil into the top of the post, can you do this with the stealths by removing the valve core and putting oil in there? Would really like to at least try to solve this without sending it away for a rebuild.

  8. #2658
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Lone Rager's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Posts
    1,925
    As you discovered, bleeding the remote or changing the pressure won't fix sag. Sag is due to air having gotten into the column of oil that supports the rider. Adding oil in through the air valve won't help as it'd be adding oil into the air column above the IFP, where there's supposed to be air, not oil.

    One thing you might try that I've found can work as an interim fix is to turn the bike upside down (protecting the items on the bars if needed), activate the remote and compress the seat post, leave it compressed and let go of the remote, turn the bike right side up, then allowing the post to extend. This can push the air out of the oil column into the oil beneath the IFP. It's not a permanent fix as air doesn't belong there and can get into the oil column again over time and use.
    Do the math.

  9. #2659
    mtbr member
    Reputation: PabloGT's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Posts
    120
    Thanks I will give that a go

  10. #2660
    mtbr member
    Reputation: gocat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    130
    I've had my stealth for about 2 years now. Bought it used on top of that. Rebuilt it once. Worked very well for me. But wanted something different and wanted 150mm with better remote positioning, so I went with a fox transfer with wolftooth remote. Hopefully it's as reliable as my reverb. Which seems ironic as this thread has so many problems with reverb. I never had any leak issues. Dropped only about 2mm sag. But nothing really to complain about.

  11. #2661
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Posts
    30
    Servicing seatpost but collar is so incredibly tight I can't get it undone. Post is clamped with soft jaws in vice but post still spins. Tried wd-40. Tried tightening vice more! Tried heating up the collar. No luck yet. Anyone have any useful tricks for getting this thing loosened off?

  12. #2662
    mtbr member
    Reputation: spyghost's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    892

    RockShox Reverb Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by cdnblur View Post
    Servicing seatpost but collar is so incredibly tight I can't get it undone. Post is clamped with soft jaws in vice but post still spins. Tried wd-40. Tried tightening vice more! Tried heating up the collar. No luck yet. Anyone have any useful tricks for getting this thing loosened off?
    some do it from the seattube...

    another trick is to wrap a single layer of inner tube.
    Canfield Yelli Screamy

  13. #2663
    May contain nuts
    Reputation: Haggis's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    2,031
    Aluminium soft jaws should be able to hold it sufficiently. You could try wrapping some rubber grip cloth around the post. I think I used some to loosen and tighten the collar.

  14. #2664
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Posts
    30
    Thanks for the seat tube and inner tube suggestions! I'll try those for reassembly. I did get the collar undone by putting the seatpost into the freezer for a couple of hours, then clamped it into the soft jaws, then heated up the collar with a hair dryer. Came off easily!!

  15. #2665
    mtbr member
    Reputation: zgxtreme's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    156
    If anyone is looking for a new, never installed Stealth B1 I have got mine posted in the classifieds. Is a 125mm model, 31.6 diameter, 440mm length with remote still in packaging as sent by Trek.

  16. #2666
    mtbr member
    Reputation: grizzler's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    356
    Sending my 6 month old stealth b1 150mm to SRAM. Sagging about 6mm, very noticeable and audible when riding. Checked pressure and when I removed the post there was some oil around the bottom.

    Just in case anyone is wondering about the b1 being more reliable.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    2017 Salsa Timberjack
    2016 Salsa Pony Rustler
    2014 Salsa Fargo
    Chips

  17. #2667
    mtbr member
    Reputation: gocat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    130
    I had the first generation stealth for 2 years no problems. Then rebuilt it. Still ok for another year. Just wanted a 150mm post so I bought a fox transfer recently. Only one ride in. So far so good.

  18. #2668
    Uly
    Uly is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    235
    Quote Originally Posted by Uly View Post
    So my rr has blown up on me twice now. After I got it back from warranty service is when it blew up again after 2 rides on it. I'm thinking that what you describe is what happened to mine. IT blew up on the same section where it's rough before a drop. So when I drop the post there usually is no choice but for it to bottom out because it's so rough.
    FYI. Ed Kilbourn and Duncan Britt from Competitive Cyclist went to bat for me with RockShox. RockShox is sending me out a new B1. It's been a long road but it is finally getting resolved. Thanks to the Competitive Cyclist team for their great customer service!!!!

  19. #2669
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Posts
    95
    I took a nasty digger a few months ago and my post developed squish and was super slow on the return.

    I bled the post twice to make sure all air was gone. Squish is not an issue, but it is super slow to return. I also noticed that my seat was super slow to return even in 40-50 *F weather prior to the spill.

    When bleeding, I made sure to un-screw speed adjust to its slowest, and I also made sure to work all possible angles on the plunger to remove any air from the remote itself. Can't think of anything else that will cause a slow return. Checked that the air cartridge was at proper psi and it was.

    Any advice? Due for a rebuild soon so maybe that will help.

  20. #2670
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    197
    I'm on my second ride on a used B1 (previous owner had an older model that SRAM apparently upgraded), and while riding muddy trails yesterday, I noticed that the upward travel is feeling "gritty."

    Is it normal for Reverbs to not tolerate mud?

    How difficult a service is it to strip and clean it just enough to get rid of whatever grit got in there?

  21. #2671
    mtbr member
    Reputation: spyghost's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    892
    Quote Originally Posted by Andeh View Post
    I'm on my second ride on a used B1 (previous owner had an older model that SRAM apparently upgraded), and while riding muddy trails yesterday, I noticed that the upward travel is feeling "gritty."

    Is it normal for Reverbs to not tolerate mud?

    How difficult a service is it to strip and clean it just enough to get rid of whatever grit got in there?
    unless something got passed the seals, a simple wipe and a few pumps will smoothen it out. a worn bushing perhaps?
    Canfield Yelli Screamy

  22. #2672
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    35
    So my tube came disconnected from the controller after a ride. Hydraulic fluid leaked out. I plan on doing a bleed and fluid replacement. Question, how do I safely put the seat back in the up position prior to the bleeding? It was in down when the tube came undone. Or do I have to even worry about getting the seat back up prior to doing the bleed and fluid fill?

  23. #2673
    mtbr member
    Reputation: gocat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    130
    Quote Originally Posted by jnashed View Post
    So my tube came disconnected from the controller after a ride. Hydraulic fluid leaked out. I plan on doing a bleed and fluid replacement. Question, how do I safely put the seat back in the up position prior to the bleeding? It was in down when the tube came undone. Or do I have to even worry about getting the seat back up prior to doing the bleed and fluid fill?
    Did the post sink when the hose came off? If not, I would reinstall the hose and bleed like usual. The fluid in the hose "pushes" the valve open in the post.

  24. #2674
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    35
    Post was down when the tube connection came undone. Upon closer inspection the connector that screws into the controller broke, so I'll have to get a replacement part for that.

    I will replace that and bleed and fill then, and once more fluid returns I assume the seat will go back up and I can continue the bleed process as directed.

  25. #2675
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Posts
    373
    I just realised I've been doing something stupid...
    The Reverb is fitted to a used bike I bought and I've been sticking the seatpost into the bike rack...

    Probably not co-incidentally it's now started slightly sticking on the way up...
    In most cases a extra press of the release it comes back up.... sometimes not.

    With 57 pages I'm not sure where to start... but I'm keen not to make anything worse.

    I see official bleed kits are fairly expensive and some after market ones exist.
    As a one off I'm wondering if it might be best getting the LBS to take a look.. as this will probably cost about the same as the bleed kit... and my LBS is also the trail centre and they must have 20+ Reverb Stealth's in their fleet...so their mechanic deals with them on a daily basis.

    From a mechanics point of view I usually draw the line after brakes and before suspension.... and send the suspension to get professionally serviced but the seatpost falls (IMHO) between those....

    Incidentally the bike regularly spends time with the seatpost compressed and upside down .... as it goes on the back seat of my car....

  26. #2676
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Posts
    95
    It's as difficult if not a little more difficult than suspension. Bleeding is super easy, it's just screws and plunging syringes. A bleed kit will pay for itself. If it needs a rebuild or a tear-down then get a quote from the LBS.

  27. #2677
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    108
    Getting ready to do a rebuild on my A2 non stealth version reverb. I've got some rotational play were the casting for the seat clamp screws into the post. I thought I read where someone had a similar problem, but can't find it. I know from some cutaways that it is a threaded interface. Here's a shot of what i'm talking about. I put an arrow, and highlighted it.
    Name:  reverb post.JPG
Views: 1146
Size:  30.2 KB

    Whats odd is even though its threaded it doesn't keep unscrewing so i'm not sure whats holding it back. My thought is dissemble, add some red loctite, and tighten it back up. I'm hesitating since it doesn't unscrew even though it has free play. I don't want to force it if there is something unseen that holding it back.

    Any suggestions?

    Al

  28. #2678
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Posts
    29
    Quote Originally Posted by PabloGT View Post
    My 150mm 6 month old stealth has started sagging 10mm or so at the top and squidy when down by a similar amount. Unsure what revision it is, but I'd guess an A1 or 2. I've bled it and checked the pressure and it made no difference to the sag. I remember reading the earlier models you could put a little oil into the top of the post, can you do this with the stealths by removing the valve core and putting oil in there? Would really like to at least try to solve this without sending it away for a rebuild.
    There is a similar way to add oil to a stealth reverb.
    It requires a fork oil level tool and is done from the lower end of the post.

    I bought a cheap second hand A2 125mm stealth reverb as it had 40mm of sag.
    Then tried to fix it without a full rebuild and was successful.
    I wrote a little guide on it: Reducing sag on Reverb Stealth ? T3mppu.kapsi.fi

    I first tested it on an one hour ride in -10C and it was all good.
    The next ride was -17C and that was too much for the reverb as it developed 20mm of sag during the ride, so now I redid the same fix

  29. #2679
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Posts
    29
    Quote Originally Posted by allen mueller View Post
    Getting ready to do a rebuild on my A2 non stealth version reverb. I've got some rotational play were the casting for the seat clamp screws into the post. I thought I read where someone had a similar problem, but can't find it. I know from some cutaways that it is a threaded interface. Here's a shot of what i'm talking about. I put an arrow, and highlighted it.
    Name:  reverb post.JPG
Views: 1146
Size:  30.2 KB

    Whats odd is even though its threaded it doesn't keep unscrewing so i'm not sure whats holding it back. My thought is dissemble, add some red loctite, and tighten it back up. I'm hesitating since it doesn't unscrew even though it has free play. I don't want to force it if there is something unseen that holding it back.

    Any suggestions?

    Al
    Are you certain that the play is between the upper post and post (seat) head?

    I too once though that there was such play, but the actual cause was the keying between upper and lower post, i.e. the whole upper post had some rotational play (as most reverbs do)

    This is easily checked by putting some tape on both upper post and seat head to be certain that they move in relation to each other.
    (it is not easy to see if the shiny black upper post moves a little or not)

    If it is in fact loose and you are going to take it apart, first completely disassemble the post.
    There might be some pressure left inside and the IFP tube (pink in the picture) is compressed between the post head and internal seal head.

  30. #2680
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    108
    Quote Originally Posted by T3mppu View Post
    Are you certain that the play is between the upper post and post (seat) head?

    I too once though that there was such play, but the actual cause was the keying between upper and lower post, i.e. the whole upper post had some rotational play (as most reverbs do)
    I'm a dumb ass thanks for making me go back and check. I could sware it was moving there but I put some tape on it like you said with a witness mark and saw it was solid. It's crazy even with my fingers on it, it feels like that's where the play is. I guess the different surface finishes played tricks on my mind. I'm happy now cuause all I have to do is a traditional rebuild and I should be good. Thanks again.

    Al

  31. #2681
    Giant Reign 27.5 2 LTD
    Reputation: ka81ua's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Posts
    147
    Links to suitable pricy vice blocks for reverb please...
    Aliexpress, ebay,...
    Thanx.
    OK

  32. #2682
    Jaymanjibe
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    21
    Quote Originally Posted by ka81ua View Post
    Links to suitable pricy vice blocks for reverb please...
    Aliexpress, ebay,...
    Thanx.
    https://www.mcmaster.com/#vise-soft-jaws/=161b1fm

  33. #2683
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Posts
    29
    Quote Originally Posted by Jaymanjibe View Post
    Those are not very cheap and the D one looks like ParkTool AV-5.
    (which is also the one that I acquired as I couldn't find cheaper alternatives)

    Axle and Spindle Vise Inserts | Park Tool

    RockShox Reverb Thread-av-5_006.jpg

  34. #2684
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    239
    Hallo! I am about to buy the 2017 model non-strealth.

    i see that it has many changes to the older model:

    • Completely redesigned internals with new SKF internal floating piston
    • Improved performance and durability in all conditions
    • Increased bushing overlap




    The model it replaces is the B1?

    Do you think it will be reliable as a dropper?
    I read here about sagging, play etc...

    This is my first dropper.

  35. #2685
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Lone Rager's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Posts
    1,925
    It's best for blocks to be un-anodized soft aluminum with radii that match the shaft being held so as not to scratch or distort it.
    Do the math.

  36. #2686
    Uly
    Uly is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    235
    Quote Originally Posted by sundace View Post
    Hallo! I am about to buy the 2017 model non-strealth.

    i see that it has many changes to the older model:

    • Completely redesigned internals with new SKF internal floating piston
    • Improved performance and durability in all conditions
    • Increased bushing overlap




    The model it replaces is the B1?

    Do you think it will be reliable as a dropper?
    I read here about sagging, play etc...

    This is my first dropper.
    It IS a B1.

  37. #2687
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    49
    I have a reverb a2 I bought last week. It's leaking air from the bottom near the air fill. It holds air when it's all the way up and leaks it all out when collapsed. I pulled the c clip and the piston is buggered up from the previous owner. What kit do I need to buy to fix it? Also do I need to buy another piston?

  38. #2688
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    49
    My reverb a2 leaks air out of the bottom when compressed. Which kit do I need to buy? Also the previous owner messed up the piston pretty badly with pliers.

  39. #2689
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Posts
    29
    Quote Originally Posted by K_Labs View Post
    I have a reverb a2 I bought last week. It's leaking air from the bottom near the air fill. It holds air when it's all the way up and leaks it all out when collapsed. I pulled the c clip and the piston is buggered up from the previous owner. What kit do I need to buy to fix it? Also do I need to buy another piston?
    No seal kit helps if the piston rod is dented.

    I have once dented mine when doing first rebuild and didn't have proper vise jaws.
    The dent was very very small, barely noticeable by eye, but could be felt with fingernail and leaked air.

    I was able to fix it with epoxy.
    1) clean the dented area thoroughly (rubbing alcohol)
    2) mark/restrict the dented area with tape
    3) apply epoxy to the dented area
    4) let the epoxy fully cure (24h or something, depends on your epoxy resin)
    5) cut a few centimeters wide strip from a very fine emery paper (I think I used P800 or P1000)
    6) put the emery paper around the piston, apply some cutting oil to prevent the emery for clogging and start smoothing the area by pulling from the ends of the emery strip
    7) don't take too much at a time, feel the area with your fingernail and continue the process until it is smooth (preferably just before the finishing on the piston starts go)

    It worked just fine for a year, but now sometimes in below zero (Celsius) temperatures, it might slowly leak, and I might need to add air every 3-5 rides.

  40. #2690
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Posts
    95
    ignore this, needs a rebuild
    Last edited by stonant; 02-14-2017 at 04:33 AM. Reason: found it

  41. #2691
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Posts
    295
    Quote Originally Posted by stonant View Post
    ignore this, needs a rebuild
    I was wondering what happened to your post. Yes, rebuild. The lever release system bleed is totally separate to the internal oil system. Id say some air bypassed the seals internally and contaminated the ifp chamber which gives you the sag, its nothing to do with the lever. If its not that old the ifp chamber can just be bled and reassembled. 10 minute job once the post is removed from the bike.

  42. #2692
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Posts
    95
    Thanks for the tip. It's a 2016 stealth, just need to figure out if it's A/B. Pretty sure it's an A1 but will figure it out with a quick google.

  43. #2693
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Posts
    295
    Quote Originally Posted by stonant View Post
    Thanks for the tip. It's a 2016 stealth, just need to figure out if it's A/B. Pretty sure it's an A1 but will figure it out with a quick google.
    Just look at the bottom of the post. The previous models have a standard chunky circlip with holes for circlip pliers. The newer B1 model has a thinner clip with an edge to lever it out with a screwdriver.

  44. #2694
    mtbr member
    Reputation: foresterLV's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Posts
    76
    What might be the problem with Reverb dropper (A2) if it goes down just fine if seat is pressed down in center or front part, but is hard to push down when pressed at the back of the seat?
    Returning is fast, no squishy or much play.
    That "no going down" if pushed at the seat back is annoying when approaching descends.
    About 50 hours of riding on this reverb.

    Sent from my SM-G900F

  45. #2695
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Posts
    295
    Quote Originally Posted by foresterLV View Post
    What might be the problem with Reverb dropper (A2) if it goes down just fine if seat is pressed down in center or front part, but is hard to push down when pressed at the back of the seat?
    Returning is fast, no squishy or much play.
    That "no going down" if pushed at the seat back is annoying when approaching descends.
    About 50 hours of riding on this reverb.

    Sent from my SM-G900F
    Sounds like the teflon coated bushes are worn badly. It could have injested fine dirt which wore them out.

  46. #2696
    mtbr member
    Reputation: gocat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    130
    Quote Originally Posted by foresterLV View Post
    What might be the problem with Reverb dropper (A2) if it goes down just fine if seat is pressed down in center or front part, but is hard to push down when pressed at the back of the seat?
    Returning is fast, no squishy or much play.
    That "no going down" if pushed at the seat back is annoying when approaching descends.
    About 50 hours of riding on this reverb.

    Sent from my SM-G900F
    That's what was going on with mine. The top cap bushing wore out after about a 1 year. Never knew until I rebuilt it.

    Oh ,the rebuilt kit doesnt include the top cap. So I would order that too just in case.

  47. #2697
    mtbr member
    Reputation: foresterLV's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Posts
    76
    Thanks all for the update, I was kind of suspecting top bushings too...

    I guess I will be riding and investigate rebuild possibilities. Considering that A2 are on sail here (~190) and service kit without specific tools/oils/grease is ~60 I might be better with buying just whole new unit and selling old. Will see.

    Sent from my SM-G900F

  48. #2698
    mtbr member
    Reputation: gocat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    130
    Quote Originally Posted by foresterLV View Post
    Thanks all for the update, I was kind of suspecting top bushings too...

    I guess I will be riding and investigate rebuild possibilities. Considering that A2 are on sail here (~190) and service kit without specific tools/oils/grease is ~60 I might be better with buying just whole new unit and selling old. Will see.

    Sent from my SM-G900F
    Check eBay. Rebuilt kit around $50. And about the same for the top cap

  49. #2699
    mtbr member
    Reputation: foresterLV's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Posts
    76
    Just did "quick peak" inside:
    1) there was water(oil?) in the air chamber, getting out when deflating
    2) was not able to unscrew lower cup (need to get that wise adapter)
    3) upper cap grease on stanchion inside was black/gray, sh*t got inside I guess
    4) cleared as much as I could, regreased
    5) reassemled, inflated to 200 psi, quick bleed

    Now its better (you can push via middle end of seat easily), but still not ideal (far end can be pushed with effort but sometimes sticks). I will get that wise adapter (to unscrew lower cap) and try to clean/regrease better.

    Sent from my SM-G900F

  50. #2700
    BPH
    BPH is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Posts
    1
    Hey. Hoping for a little advice. I have read the whole thread and nothing matches my problem!

    My standard reverb has had very little use, is 6 month old and performs perfectly, EXCEPT....

    ...when the post is dropped for the first time, it won't drop smoothly. It's almost like it's stuck. It needs a small bump/wiggle to help it drop. Once that's done, it drops fine, and extends fine, then drops again absolutely fine, until it's been extended fully for about half an hour, and the issue repeats itself.

    Any ideas? It's only a niggling small problem, but certainly one that wasn't there at the beginning of its time!

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •