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  1. #2601
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikkeG View Post
    This is the video I was referring to:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SDPX5AtwpsU

    Yes, I have the needed tools and checked all O rings. The bleed was successful as well but I still can't make the post lock on any position and I'm running out of fluid for another rebuild. Me getting frustrated.

    Thanks by the way for the replies
    Ok. I haven't seen that video. They do leave out a few things that are in the manual so best to use the manual instead IMO.
    Thinking about this more I think that maybe your poppet valve spool isnt returning properly for some reason. If you put too much grease on it then it may not function properly.
    I'm not sure as I haven't had this issue before. Maybe something in the remote circuit is causing the issue like the lever plunger getting jammed on the way out?? You definitely got all of the oil out with the oil height tool set to the correct level?? Just clutching at anything to try and help.

  2. #2602
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    Quote Originally Posted by niva1989 View Post
    Ok. I haven't seen that video. They do leave out a few things that are in the manual so best to use the manual instead IMO.
    Thinking about this more I think that maybe your poppet valve spool isnt returning properly for some reason. If you put too much grease on it then it may not function properly.
    I'm not sure as I haven't had this issue before. Maybe something in the remote circuit is causing the issue like the lever plunger getting jammed on the way out?? You definitely got all of the oil out with the oil height tool set to the correct level?? Just clutching at anything to try and help.
    I'll see if I can get a hold of a manual. I'll check the grease on the poppet valve. Yes, I'm sure I got all the oil out. I was looking over the net for instructions to take the lever apart and see if that's where the problem is but haven't seen one.

    Again, thanks for your inputs. Very much appreciate it.

  3. #2603
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikkeG View Post
    I'll see if I can get a hold of a manual. I'll check the grease on the poppet valve. Yes, I'm sure I got all the oil out. I was looking over the net for instructions to take the lever apart and see if that's where the problem is but haven't seen one.

    Again, thanks for your inputs. Very much appreciate it.
    The lever is super easy. I couldn't find a manual for the lever either but just got stuck into it and it was easy. The hose barb just screws out of the lever. You will need to remove the lever from your handlebars to expose the retaining clip on the underside. It is a U shaped retaining clip that slots up into a groove in the lever bushing just use a small flat bladed screwdriver to lever it out. All the internals will come out when this is removed

    The SRAM spare parts catalogue has an exploded view of the lever. See link below for spare parts catalogue. I just put a rebuild kit through mine and it feels much better.

    https://sram-cdn-pull-zone-gsdesign...._spc_rev_a.pdf

    Full service manual:

    https://sram-cdn-pull-zone-gsdesign....stealth_sm.pdf

  4. #2604
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    I have bought a reverb stealth post for awhile and did not used it. I notice that my current bike seat diameter is 31.6..but the reverb I bought was 34.9...may I know could I just replaced the lowers of the post?

  5. #2605
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    I've got the 0.5cm drop at the top thing (i.e. seat decompresses under weight) going on.

    Been reading that is likely a faulty seal... but, it had a full service 6-7 months ago.

    During that visit to LBS, they recommended replacing the remote... This was done yesterday.

    I've checked the psi and it's at the 250 mark.

    It's way out of the warranty window.

    I'll take it in again for one more look o_0

    Sent from my kltedv using Tapatalk
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  6. #2606
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    Quote Originally Posted by kenko View Post
    I have bought a reverb stealth post for awhile and did not used it. I notice that my current bike seat diameter is 31.6..but the reverb I bought was 34.9...may I know could I just replaced the lowers of the post?
    I check parts list and it does look like the only thing you need to change is the lower post. You would need to be careful it isnt too tight or too loose when you fit it. You might have to change the 3 brass keys to a different diameter.

    See for yourself:

    https://sram-cdn-pull-zone-gsdesign....spc_revb_0.pdf

  7. #2607
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    Quote Originally Posted by targnik View Post
    I've got the 0.5cm drop at the top thing (i.e. seat decompresses under weight) going on.

    Been reading that is likely a faulty seal... but, it had a full service 6-7 months ago.

    During that visit to LBS, they recommended replacing the remote... This was done yesterday.

    I've checked the psi and it's at the 250 mark.

    It's way out of the warranty window.

    I'll take it in again for one more look o_0

    Sent from my kltedv using Tapatalk
    It can easily become faulty in 6-7 months if it wasn't a good rebuild. Will definitely be a leaking ifp chamber through the main sealhead or oil bypassing the ifp piston itself. Most likely the main sealhead oring was damaged during assembly. I wouldn't spend money on a remote as I dont think that is what your problem is. If it was the remote it would be stuck extended or lowered.
    Last edited by niva1989; 3 Weeks Ago at 08:02 PM.

  8. #2608
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    Quote Originally Posted by targnik View Post
    I've got the 0.5cm drop at the top thing (i.e. seat decompresses under weight) going on.

    Been reading that is likely a faulty seal... but, it had a full service 6-7 months ago.

    During that visit to LBS, they recommended replacing the remote... This was done yesterday.

    I've checked the psi and it's at the 250 mark.

    It's way out of the warranty window.

    I'll take it in again for one more look o_0

    Sent from my kltedv using Tapatalk
    Most likely the u-cup seal. I replaced it with the oring from the basic service kit. Been going great.

  9. #2609
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    Quote Originally Posted by Haggis View Post
    Most likely the u-cup seal. I replaced it with the oring from the basic service kit. Been going great.
    I forgot about that u cup seal. Been a while since I've seen one. Definitely could be that too.

  10. #2610
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    Ive got the slight suspensioning of the post and increased my pressure from 170 up to 250 and while not gone, it seems sightly better.

    With this my post isnt as fast and on cold mornings the post is now painfully slow until the sun heats it up.

    Anyone else see similar problems?

  11. #2611
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    Quote Originally Posted by freshturk View Post
    Ive got the slight suspensioning of the post and increased my pressure from 170 up to 250 and while not gone, it seems sightly better.

    With this my post isnt as fast and on cold mornings the post is now painfully slow until the sun heats it up.

    Anyone else see similar problems?
    Sounds all too familiar. Sounds like you have a couple of issues. Definitely needs a rebuild with the latest version sealkit. This will have the new o'ring that replaces the u-cup seal on the inside of the main sealhead. It will also have the new IFP quad lip piston. The cold weather issue does sound like the remote needs a bleed but it could also be related to the internal issue too. You might be loosing remote fluid internally. Try ramping up the speed if you aren't at full yet this will help compensate for the remote issues but will only be temporary till you get the post rebuilt. If you have had it recently rebuilt then this is bad news I know but they may not have used the latest upgraded parts.

  12. #2612
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    So I just got my reverb A2 version back from warranty service with the B1 internals replacement. It was 6 months old at the time it blew up and I haven't ridden my bike in a month because it took the LBS a month to get if fixed. Just slapped it on and tried it out and the damn thing will not extend all the way. It's short by an inch and a half. I am done with this thing.

  13. #2613
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    Quote Originally Posted by niva1989 View Post
    I forgot about that u cup seal. Been a while since I've seen one. Definitely could be that too.
    Hmmm, when I rebuilt my Reverb Stealth recently, I still used a U-cup seal in the inner seal head (from a full service kit I previously acquired). I wasn't aware of an o-ring that is similar in size to the u-cup seal.

    Which one is it on this picture...

    https://static.bike-components.de/ca...444054255.jpeg

  14. #2614
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    Quote Originally Posted by jobo_ph View Post
    Hmmm, when I rebuilt my Reverb Stealth recently, I still used a U-cup seal in the inner seal head (from a full service kit I previously acquired). I wasn't aware of an o-ring that is similar in size to the u-cup seal.

    Which one is it on this picture...

    https://static.bike-components.de/ca...444054255.jpeg
    I think it is one of the bottom ones. It's a chunky one.

  15. #2615
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    Quote Originally Posted by Uly View Post
    So I just got my reverb A2 version back from warranty service with the B1 internals replacement. It was 6 months old at the time it blew up and I haven't ridden my bike in a month because it took the LBS a month to get if fixed. Just slapped it on and tried it out and the damn thing will not extend all the way. It's short by an inch and a half. I am done with this thing.
    You should just be done with your LBS. Not the posts fault. It just needs someone to rebuilt it properly which takes all of 1-2hrs tops, not a month. I am assuming that you checked the air pressure? The reverb is the best dropper out there by far. They just need to be assembled with a bit of care and they won't give you any trouble.
    I wanted to upgrade to a 150mm dropper from a 125. Thought I would give a Fox Transfer a try as it was $150 cheaper. Easy to fit and fiddling with the cable took about the same time as a reverb remote bleed. The transfers actuation feels pretty crappy compared to the smooth action of the reverb which also feel better controlled than the transfer. The transfer just drops uncontrollably and bottoms out with a solid metallic thud that really puts you off. Feels very cheap compared to Reverb. Think I'll cut my losses and sell the transfer. I've still got a reverb on my trail bike and you can really notice how much better the reverb is. They are miles ahead of the rest and I don't think you have much other choice.

    I suggest finding someone who knows their way around a reverb post and just get it assembled properly or buy the tools and give it a go. The manual and videos are the best.

    Im sick of hearing about people getting poor service.

    Sorry about the rant but poor service makes my blood boil. I rebuild my mates droppers for cost and a 6 pack of beer. They are all still going strong. Look how much time you have lost.

  16. #2616
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    RockShox still use the U-cup seal from the factory and in service kits for the main seal head.

  17. #2617
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick Draper View Post
    RockShox still use the U-cup seal from the factory and in service kits for the main seal head.
    Your right again as usual Rick. The last 2 seal kits I used were missing the u cup seal and I thought they had changed away from them. Just checked the latest kits I have in my spares and they still have the u cup. These are the latest and greatest too. I must have used a o'ring from a local supplier in place of the u cup the last couple. I'll see if I made note of it somewhere.

    This guy below has a few ideas on this issue:

    The Seatpost Whisperer | Blue Liquid Labs

  18. #2618
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    Interesting idea about the ucup vs oring. Anyone know where to get the right size o- ring?
    1990 Fat Chance Yo Eddy Team
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  19. #2619
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doug View Post
    Interesting idea about the ucup vs oring. Anyone know where to get the right size o- ring?
    I searched but I didn't write the size down. I'll measure up next time I'm rebuilding one and post the size. I actually thought I got it out of the new kit but looks like I was wrong. Just got some new kits for my spares and they have the u cup. It's been a few months since I did the rebuild with the o'ring so couldn't remember.

  20. #2620
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    Quote Originally Posted by niva1989 View Post
    You should just be done with your LBS. Not the posts fault. It just needs someone to rebuilt it properly which takes all of 1-2hrs tops, not a month. I am assuming that you checked the air pressure? The reverb is the best dropper out there by far. They just need to be assembled with a bit of care and they won't give you any trouble.
    I wanted to upgrade to a 150mm dropper from a 125. Thought I would give a Fox Transfer a try as it was $150 cheaper. Easy to fit and fiddling with the cable took about the same time as a reverb remote bleed. The transfers actuation feels pretty crappy compared to the smooth action of the reverb which also feel better controlled than the transfer. The transfer just drops uncontrollably and bottoms out with a solid metallic thud that really puts you off. Feels very cheap compared to Reverb. Think I'll cut my losses and sell the transfer. I've still got a reverb on my trail bike and you can really notice how much better the reverb is. They are miles ahead of the rest and I don't think you have much other choice.

    I suggest finding someone who knows their way around a reverb post and just get it assembled properly or buy the tools and give it a go. The manual and videos are the best.

    Im sick of hearing about people getting poor service.

    Sorry about the rant but poor service makes my blood boil. I rebuild my mates droppers for cost and a 6 pack of beer. They are all still going strong. Look how much time you have lost.
    Yup, remote bled and pressure at 250.

    Too bad about the Transfer. I was hoping it would be a reliable mechanical replacement.

    The search goes on.

  21. #2621
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    Quote Originally Posted by niva1989 View Post
    I searched but I didn't write the size down. I'll measure up next time I'm rebuilding one and post the size. I actually thought I got it out of the new kit but looks like I was wrong. Just got some new kits for my spares and they have the u cup. It's been a few months since I did the rebuild with the o'ring so couldn't remember.
    It is in the basic service kit.

    RockShox Reverb Thread-basic-service-kit.jpg

    RockShox Reverb Thread-u-cup-replacement.jpg

  22. #2622
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    Quote Originally Posted by Uly View Post
    Yup, remote bled and pressure at 250.

    Too bad about the Transfer. I was hoping it would be a reliable mechanical replacement.

    The search goes on.
    I can't comment on the reliability of the Transfer yet. It has just made me appreciate the Reverb operation a bit more. I might leave it on for a bit longer and see how it goes, $150 is a fair bit of a saving.

    The market is being flooded by very cheap posts with throw away gas strut cartridges like the ones on your car hatchback doors. Time will tell how reliable they are. I think the Transfer might just be another one of these but haven't had it apart to see. My mates Trek Slash came with a Bontrager post that sucked up dirt like a vacuum and siezed up after 2 runs. When I opened it up it was full of dirt and dust. It was pretty simple to pull apart but if it clogs up that quickly it isn't worth it.
    I'm still going to recommend a reverb to anyone that asks.

  23. #2623
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    Quote Originally Posted by Haggis View Post
    It is in the basic service kit.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Haha maybe that's where I found it or maybe they put one in the kit by mistake.

  24. #2624
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    Quote Originally Posted by Haggis View Post
    It is in the basic service kit.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Haha maybe that's where I found it or maybe they put one in the full kit I had by mistake. That would explain why I didn't write it down thinking that is how all the kits were going to be from now on.

  25. #2625
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    Quote Originally Posted by niva1989 View Post
    ...My mates Trek Slash came with a Bontrager post that sucked up dirt like a vacuum and siezed up after 2 runs...
    I had been considering one of the new Bontrager Dropline posts to replace my Reverb. Do you know how the dirt got in it? Does it have a typical dust seal around the stanchion or something else?

    One reason I was considering the Dropline is that I greatly prefer its under-the-bar paddle remote to the Reverb's plunger, which costs $100+ to move under the bar.
    Do the math.

  26. #2626
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lone Rager View Post

    One reason I was considering the Dropline is that I greatly prefer its under-the-bar paddle remote to the Reverb's plunger, which costs $100+ to move under the bar.
    Huh? just buy the model with RH remote and flip it over for under LHS. That's what everyone does

  27. #2627
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lone Rager View Post
    I had been considering one of the new Bontrager Dropline posts to replace my Reverb. Do you know how the dirt got in it? Does it have a typical dust seal around the stanchion or something else?

    One reason I was considering the Dropline is that I greatly prefer its under-the-bar paddle remote to the Reverb's plunger, which costs $100+ to move under the bar.
    It has a lip seal but obviously isn't doing a good job at keeping the dirt out. The gas strut cartridge isn't very strong on the return so any extra friction stops it in its tracks. My mate said it is mine if I could get it working again. I took it apart, cleaned and greased then it was like new. I am keeping it as a spare. I wouldn't trust it. It is one of many cheap replaceable cartridge posts flooding the market. Reverb is by far the best choice. As Haggis said you can by reverb with RH remote to mount under LH.

  28. #2628
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    Quote Originally Posted by Haggis View Post
    Huh? just buy the model with RH remote and flip it over for under LHS. That's what everyone does
    Brilliant, if you don't already have the LH model that came on the bike. The RH remote itself is the $100+ I mentioned. Even then, it's still the awkward, IMO, plunger rather than a paddle. Yes, there is an after-market cable conversion available that replaces the plunger with a paddle. That too is $100+.
    Do the math.

  29. #2629
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lone Rager View Post
    Brilliant, if you don't already have the LH model that came on the bike. The RH remote itself is the $100+ I mentioned. Even then, it's still the awkward, IMO, plunger rather than a paddle. Yes, there is an after-market cable conversion available that replaces the plunger with a paddle. That too is $100+.
    I'm currently trying out a Fox transfer and I don't rate the cable and paddle. I still have a reverb on my other bike and much prefer the plunger as it feels better. The plugger also stays straight as you push down on it. The paddle starts to slope away as the further you depress it. It has a much larger stroke to release the post and it feels Ike you need to move your whole hand. The plugger is just a quick thumb action push. The thing I miss the most as I mentioned before is the control when lowering the seat. The reverb has a controlled cushioned drop. The Fox and other posts like it just slam down uncontrolled. It really puts you off.

  30. #2630
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikkeG View Post
    I bought a used 2015 Rockshox reverb stealth dropperpost and found out that it can't hold any locked position using the remote. I'm done bleeding and refilling the post with RS fluid. Anyone know how I can fix this? Thanks!
    Have you resolved this issue yet?

    In my last A1 (non-stealth) rebuild, which I did without the reverb tools, I first set the poppet valve too deep (the post was empty), which resulted it being always open and closing when remote was fully pressed.
    I think that the RockShox bleed procedure prevents this, as there will be oil to make sure the depth is right.

    As I didn't have the bleed tools and the post was empty, I closed the poppet valve assembly, bled the remote (fills also the poppet valve cavity on top of the post), left the other syringe on, then pressed the poppet from inside the post. (the syringe relieved the excess oil when pressing)
    The poppet has this little post in the center of it, which delimits the proper depth.

    After the poppet valve was in correct depth, it worked as supposed to.

  31. #2631
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    Quote Originally Posted by T3mppu View Post
    Have you resolved this issue yet?

    In my last A1 (non-stealth) rebuild, which I did without the reverb tools, I first set the poppet valve too deep (the post was empty), which resulted it being always open and closing when remote was fully pressed.
    I think that the RockShox bleed procedure prevents this, as there will be oil to make sure the depth is right.

    As I didn't have the bleed tools and the post was empty, I closed the poppet valve assembly, bled the remote (fills also the poppet valve cavity on top of the post), left the other syringe on, then pressed the poppet from inside the post. (the syringe relieved the excess oil when pressing)
    The poppet has this little post in the center of it, which delimits the proper depth.

    After the poppet valve was in correct depth, it worked as supposed to.
    It's been a long time since I rebuilt my non-stealth Reverb but I remember just pushing the poppet in as far as it would go then putting the cap and circlip in. I think the trick with the non stealth is to leave the bleed screw out till your ready to bleed the remote..??

    Hopefully Mike has this sorted by now. Mike, how did you go?

  32. #2632
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    Quote Originally Posted by niva1989 View Post
    It's been a long time since I rebuilt my non-stealth Reverb but I remember just pushing the poppet in as far as it would go then putting the cap and circlip in. I think the trick with the non stealth is to leave the bleed screw out till your ready to bleed the remote..??

    Hopefully Mike has this sorted by now. Mike, how did you go?
    That's the idea, but if the post is empty as in my make shift method without the actual bleed tools (RockShox Reverb rebuild (without Reverb bleed tools) ? T3mppu.kapsi.fi), the poppet valve will go too deep and have to be pressed back inside after the cap and circlip is on.
    This method also requires that the remote must be bled before the internals are filled with oil as I'm using the remote to let the IFP move.

    Althought the method was not very effective with the latest and greatest SKF IFP.
    It is so tight, that instead of it moving, the piston tube pops up when pressing down the piston :P
    Unfortunately my phone broke after the rebuild before it uploaded the photos to cloud, so I lost all the photos, but I will write better instructions when I rebuild my other (A2 non-stealth) post.

    I also recommend getting the RockShox bleed tools when working with the new SKF IFP.

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    Now I have done it...

    I got the new IFP stuck at the bottom (or top of the post).

    I was rebuilding my other reverb with 100mm drop and used the IFP depth of 125mm reverb (my other reverb that I rebuilt a few days ago.

    Any ideas how to get it out?

  34. #2634
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    Tried the zip tie method?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Haggis View Post
    Tried the zip tie method?
    That's how I usually remove it, but it cannot be used in this situation as the IFP is on pressed as deep as it goes. It is around the poppet valve / piston tube base and there is only around 5mm depth on the inside to grab it.

    I've tried to pull it with what I have in my garage, but with no luck.
    The new SKF IFP is really tight to begin with and also very light (the old metal IFP with o-rings was much looser and probably could have been removed with enough momentum).
    I think I'll need an internal bearing extractor type tool, but it has to be very small as the IFP ID is 14mm and the ID of the post is 20mm and the tool must be able to fit 100+mm inside the tube.

    Luckily my handy friend has a 3D printer and has made me a tool, we'll see if that helps.

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    After some help please.

    Like a few other members I run a RH reverb lever upside down on the LH of the handlebars. In this configuration the knob on the end of the piston slightly touches my shimano brake clamp. I had a idea to drill and tap a new hole in the knob so that it could be rotated 180 degrees, this worked OK. Unfortunately in the process I dropped the small grub screw on the floor (a few hours later I have given up looking for it).

    Does anyone know the size of this screw please, I think it is a M3 coned grub screw 10mm with a T10.

  37. #2637
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    So my Reverb (not sure if its A1 or A1, but its NOT B1) is getting quite slow on the return and is probably due for service. I've watched the videos from RS and it doesn't look THAT intimidating. As someone who can do an air sleeve service on a Fox Float in about 20 minutes, how much more challenging is the Reverb rebuild?

    And is there a summary list somewhere, of the tips and tricks people have learned? Like using an O-ring on the U-cup (or replacing u-cup, not quite sure what "o-ring that sucker" above means)?
    Alcohol may lead nowhere, but it sure is the scenic route!

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    Quote Originally Posted by T3mppu View Post
    That's how I usually remove it, but it cannot be used in this situation as the IFP is on pressed as deep as it goes. It is around the poppet valve / piston tube base and there is only around 5mm depth on the inside to grab it.

    I've tried to pull it with what I have in my garage, but with no luck.
    The new SKF IFP is really tight to begin with and also very light (the old metal IFP with o-rings was much looser and probably could have been removed with enough momentum).
    I think I'll need an internal bearing extractor type tool, but it has to be very small as the IFP ID is 14mm and the ID of the post is 20mm and the tool must be able to fit 100+mm inside the tube.

    Luckily my handy friend has a 3D printer and has made me a tool, we'll see if that helps.
    Make a couple of hooks with some suitable gauge wire? File the ends smooth to avoid scratching anything.

  39. #2639
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    Quote Originally Posted by 007 View Post
    So my Reverb (not sure if its A1 or A1, but its NOT B1) is getting quite slow on the return and is probably due for service. I've watched the videos from RS and it doesn't look THAT intimidating. As someone who can do an air sleeve service on a Fox Float in about 20 minutes, how much more challenging is the Reverb rebuild?

    And is there a summary list somewhere, of the tips and tricks people have learned? Like using an O-ring on the U-cup (or replacing u-cup, not quite sure what "o-ring that sucker" above means)?
    If you're comfortable doing basic work on suspension then you'll manage Reverb servicing fine. You do need a bench vice, soft jaws, correct tools, grease etc, but you can get away without the pricey crows foot adapters for setting torque if you have an educated arm. Attention to detail goes a long way...

  40. #2640
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    Quote Originally Posted by 007 View Post
    So my Reverb (not sure if its A1 or A1, but its NOT B1) is getting quite slow on the return and is probably due for service. I've watched the videos from RS and it doesn't look THAT intimidating. As someone who can do an air sleeve service on a Fox Float in about 20 minutes, how much more challenging is the Reverb rebuild?

    And is there a summary list somewhere, of the tips and tricks people have learned? Like using an O-ring on the U-cup (or replacing u-cup, not quite sure what "o-ring that sucker" above means)?
    Do you have more than 3mm of squish at top out? Do you have more than 225 psi in your post? Have you tried to bleed the remote first? I would check these first before doing a rebuild.
    Quote Originally Posted by 007 View Post
    .... As someone who can do an air sleeve service on a Fox Float in about 20 minutes, how much more challenging is the Reverb rebuild...
    Well rockshox/avid/sram like to do a "de-gassing" style of bleed in their stuff that requires the use of syringes and fittings. It takes a couple of times to get a feel for it but when done right you get that sweet sound of zero cavitation or squish in the system.

  41. #2641
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    Quote Originally Posted by Haggis View Post
    Make a couple of hooks with some suitable gauge wire? File the ends smooth to avoid scratching anything.
    I tried all kinds of things to gouge it out, but with no luck.

    Even the 3D printed extractor wasn't strong enough, as the IFP was sunken around the poppet valve stem and thus had very little gripping surface left on the inside.

    Finally I gave up and used superglue to add grip between the extractor tool and the IFP.


    After I got it out I used acetone to remove the superglue.
    Now I just have to hope that I haven't scratched anything while fumbling with different methods to get the IFP out.


    Now I have rebuilt the post, but the poppet valve/remote returns really slowly. I'm guessing that after all the hassle, the oil level might be wrong.

    Does anyone have the RockShox oil level tool and could give me dimensions of it so I could get the oil level correct?
    Last edited by T3mppu; 1 Week Ago at 10:07 AM.

  42. #2642
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    LBS got my RR back up and running again...

    Initial discussions re, cause centered around the prior mentioned seal.

    However, it ended up being the bottom out system (can't remember exactly what he called it).

    He asked me if I slammed the post down when I lower it whilst riding along. He then informed me that I should gently depress post whilst riding.

    I haven't had it (& bike) back out on trails yet. But, I did try and practice my finesse whilst out riding my other bike (±dropper).

    For a Clyde, this is easier said than done o_0

    Guess I'll be revisiting him in another 6-7 months time for another tune up.

    On a positive note, it was relatively cheap to do.

    Sent from my kltedv using Tapatalk
    to err is human... to face plant is frickin hilarious!!

  43. #2643
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    Here's my


  44. #2644
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    Quote Originally Posted by targnik View Post
    LBS got my RR back up and running again...

    Initial discussions re, cause centered around the prior mentioned seal.

    However, it ended up being the bottom out system (can't remember exactly what he called it).

    He asked me if I slammed the post down when I lower it whilst riding along. He then informed me that I should gently depress post whilst riding.

    I haven't had it (& bike) back out on trails yet. But, I did try and practice my finesse whilst out riding my other bike (±dropper).

    For a Clyde, this is easier said than done o_0

    Guess I'll be revisiting him in another 6-7 months time for another tune up.

    On a positive note, it was relatively cheap to do.

    Sent from my kltedv using Tapatalk
    So my rr has blown up on me twice now. After I got it back from warranty service is when it blew up again after 2 rides on it. I'm thinking that what you describe is what happened to mine. IT blew up on the same section where it's rough before a drop. So when I drop the post there usually is no choice but for it to bottom out because it's so rough.

  45. #2645
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    Is it possible to convert a 125 stealth to a 150 by replacing the lower tube or any other parts?

  46. #2646
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    There are some bits and pieces that you _don't_ have to change, but basically you need to replace the whole post. It is possible to change the diameter of the post by changing the outer tube and convert the short 125mm post to long 125mm post by changing outer tube and main piston/poppet and adding spacer.

  47. #2647
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    Quote Originally Posted by niva1989 View Post
    Can be trapped air maybe.
    i just had the chance to rebleed the remote. i'm pretty sure i got all bubbles out of the remote. pressing the button feels solid. this time i feel a bit of bounce at full extension only. at full extension, press the saddle down and it will go down a few mm then spring back up... this wasn't like this prior to remote rebleed.
    Canfield Yelli Screamy

  48. #2648
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    The oil in the remote is not connected to the oil in the post. It serves only to operate the valve in the post, like the cable does in cable actuated posts. If your post is firm, you can cut the remote hose and it will still be firm. Same goes for if it's squishy. Bleeding the remote only affects how well the remote controls the valve in the post.
    Do the math.

  49. #2649
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    Is the new reverb kit compatible with the A2 model?

    https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/pro...service-kit-b1

    SRAM tech mentioned that the blue 1pc IFP is backward compatible to all models but didn't mention about the rest, ie internal seal head and top cap

    https://youtu.be/SDPX5AtwpsU
    Canfield Yelli Screamy

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