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  1. #201
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    Man, I got the wrong part as well... damn... as a stopgap I was able to crazy glue my broken piston back into the lever body and it has performed perfectly for the past month or so.

  2. #202
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    Araldite

    Since my new part failed, I also tried gluing the broken one back together. But it doesn't hold a seal. After bleeding the post will cycle 2 or 3 times, but air must be geting in behind the piston. Maybe when i snapped the piston i damaged the lever body. This is getting really expensive...

  3. #203
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    So, the correct SRAM part number for the piston assembly is 11.6815.016.020 ... I've contacted Universal Cycles who said they should be able to get the correct part from SRAM.... we'll see.

  4. #204
    tma
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    Peeps,

    I've joined the herd! Got myself a 30.9 x 380mm from North Shore this morning.
    Installed it then noticed the slow action. Read this thread, found out about single syringe
    bleeding, did it to a T, then WHAM!!!!

    The thing is like a freakin' hydraulic chair! So smooth and precise. No wobbles or anything.
    And the matchmaker fits perfect with my XO shifter.

    One of the best things I've ever purchased.
    "It's the driver, not the car..."

  5. #205
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    Quote Originally Posted by tma
    Peeps,

    I've joined the herd! Got myself a 30.9 x 380mm from North Shore this morning.
    Installed it then noticed the slow action. Read this thread, found out about single syringe
    bleeding, did it to a T, then WHAM!!!!

    The thing is like a freakin' hydraulic chair! So smooth and precise. No wobbles or anything.
    And the matchmaker fits perfect with my XO shifter.

    One of the best things I've ever purchased.
    Awesome. Glad you got it sorted and that the thread helped at least one person out with their new Reverb. Sounds like you're really enjoying it. I wish I could be riding mine more, I planned to have a mid-term review by now, but waiting on a warranty replacement for a broken frame currently. I've just been cruisin around on my hardtail. Hopefully I can get back on my main bike soon and do some more testing of the Reverb.
    Gotta get up to get down.
    LMB

  6. #206
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    Quote Originally Posted by highaltitude
    After 5 weeks i finally got a huge box containing the tiny replacement piston, which is a generic xloc spare part that i posted earlier. Unfortunately, it's a totally different design, and is not compatible with the Reverb's xloc lever. The original Reverb piston is shorter, and has a different head design, and a single o-ring. I trried installing it anyway and got a couple of cycles out of the post before it stopped working again. Fluid leaks past the new piston, and it extends way too far. The silver washer bit could probably prevent this, but it would not fit into the piston bore.

    I guess I'll have to go to the importer for a replacement part.
    A friend just rebuilt mine using the same part. You need to swap the o-rings (reverb has two lips) and removed that silver bit.

    TBH its feels better than ever and faster! There’s no signs of oil leaking out.

  7. #207
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    Much better

    I just received mine yesterday which had front to back and side to side play. Never even sat on it. Sent it back for a replacement. Just wondering if there is a weight limit? thanks Rich[/QUOTE]

    The replacement has no play, very nice. Had to add fluid to the remote like everybody else. Works great now. Thanks for the tips. Rich

  8. #208
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    kinda surprised at all the people having trouble bleeding. fill the remote syringe 3/4 and empty the post syringe. then just push the oil back and forth a bunch. also helps to gently push oil with the remote syringe when you are screwing the post screw back in. then push the remote in, press the syringe, over and over. that simple.

  9. #209
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    broken xloc plunger

    I took on nice header on a fast downhill and broke my xloc remote lever for the reverb. It was mounted on the right in the on top of the bar position. I don't like the fact that the remote lever protrudes above the bar in such a vulnerable position. It is also a a PITA to flip the bike over to work on with the lever in the way. I think it would be better to mount the remote in the under bar position. I assume I need a left-sided xloc to mount it under the bar on the right? Anyone sorted out this issue?

  10. #210
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    Quote Originally Posted by sawbonz
    I took on nice header on a fast downhill and broke my xloc remote lever for the reverb. It was mounted on the right in the on top of the bar position. I don't like the fact that the remote lever protrudes above the bar in such a vulnerable position. It is also a a PITA to flip the bike over to work on with the lever in the way. I think it would be better to mount the remote in the under bar position. I assume I need a left-sided xloc to mount it under the bar on the right? Anyone sorted out this issue?
    There are several posts in this thread of people running the right side lever under the bars on the left, even pictures. Read up.
    Gotta get up to get down.
    LMB

  11. #211
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    Quote Originally Posted by BaeckerX1
    There are several posts in this thread of people running the right side lever under the bars on the left, even pictures. Read up.
    Read up? Did you read what he typed? Baecker said, "I assume I need a left-sided xloc to mount it under the bar on the right?"

    By the way the button is angled, you would need a left-handed remote to work correctly under the bar on the right.
    Last edited by nixgame22; 12-27-2010 at 12:11 PM.
    Maintain internal heights.

  12. #212
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    Quote Originally Posted by nixgame22
    Read up? Did you read what he typed? Baecker said, "I assume I need a left-sided xloc to mount it under the bar on the right?"

    By the way the button is angled, you would need a left-handed remote to work correctly on the under the bar on the right.
    Yes, that's correct. But judging by the fact that you run a right-handed remote under the bars on the left, wouldn't the logical assumption be that you'd need a left-handed remote to run under the bars on the right? I guess I sometimes forget that you need to be blatantly obvious on the internet. I thought that was a given looking at the orientation of the remote on the bars. The procedure would be exactly the same, only mirrored, so I still believe the pictures and the previous posts on the topic to be relevant, including the mods that some people had to do to make it work.
    Gotta get up to get down.
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  13. #213
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    Could someone please measure their Reverb from bottom of the topcap (silver piece) to seat rails?? Im thinking of putting one on my next bike but need to know if it will fit.

  14. #214
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    The info is all in the first post:

    Install lengths:
    I measured about 7 1/4" from bottom of fitting to bottom of seat rails, about 7 1/2" to top of seat rails.
    Bottom of silver fitting to the seat rails is 190 mm when post is fully extended. (scottg)
    You need a minimum of 195mm of exposed post (from the enter of the saddle rails to the top of the seat tube/collar) to run a Reverb. (tscheezy)

    80mm Minimum Insertion Length or about 3.15 inches (Reverb Manual)
    I'm about 5mm - 10mm short on mine, but I'm gonna end up getting one and then working it out. I'm thinking that there will surely be a way to add a spacer (similar to RS forks) to limit the travel. I certainly hope so anyway

  15. #215
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    Quote Originally Posted by Isildur
    The info is all in the first post:



    I'm about 5mm - 10mm short on mine, but I'm gonna end up getting one and then working it out. I'm thinking that there will surely be a way to add a spacer (similar to RS forks) to limit the travel. I certainly hope so anyway
    Thank you I was just going through this thread again and just saw that - DOH!! Im a MORON, thanks!

  16. #216
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    haha No Worries. I'm sure I've done that a few times (OK, well maybe more than a few) over the years Enjoy your Reverb!

  17. #217
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guy.Ford
    Could someone please measure their Reverb from bottom of the topcap (silver piece) to seat rails?? Im thinking of putting one on my next bike but need to know if it will fit.
    if the full travel is too much couldnt you just run it a little lower in the travel?

  18. #218
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    Quote Originally Posted by b-kul
    if the full travel is too much couldnt you just run it a little lower in the travel?
    yes that works for me as my setup is only 5-10mm too long. i can see it being a real pain though if your post is 1-2 inches too long or more as you would basically need to hover over your seat and stop the post with your butt before full extension each time. if you were to let the post return to full extension without stopping it, you'd have a hard time getting your butt back on the seat as it would be too high, especially if you're clipped in and can't "hop" back up onto the seat to lower it a bit.
    I've been curious about what mods Push will be offering for the Reverb, and if a reducing spacer could be offered, I'm sure it would be a popular mod as it seems many people have been asking about this.

  19. #219
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    Quote Originally Posted by b-kul
    if the full travel is too much couldnt you just run it a little lower in the travel?

    Very true, though that would seem pointless to me, then I would just buy a dif post, or I could buy a smaller frame.

    Im currently considering a Firebird in either a 19 or 21, Im 6'4" so either would work but need to be sure if the post will fit either frame which may have helped me decide between either size. Seems it would work so no worries, now if only I could decide on frame size!!!

  20. #220
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    If there was some way of reducing the travel I'd order one today, but 125mm make it too long for my, I'm cursed with short legs....

  21. #221
    Jai
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    I think you can limit the travel externally, it wouldn't be the most elegant solution however...let's say I would only do this if I had an adjustable seatpost and I wasn't able to return it and buy the right one.

    You basically need to copy this idea, an small strap (or cord,...) attaching the seat rails or head post to the frame or lower part of seatpost so the travel will be only as long as the strap is.


  22. #222
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    Reverb lifts up

    Anyone else have trouble with the RS Reverb not being fully locked from lifting upward? When I first got mine, it was totally stuck. After I bled it, it worked very well, and IIRC, would not rise if you lifted up on the saddle. Now it does behave this way. SRAM says this is normal, and there is a note in the manual about this possibility, but I seem to recall that it did not originally do this. I may try another bleed. Is anyone else observing this spring-up behavior or lack thereof?
    Last edited by AvalonTrails; 12-29-2010 at 12:28 PM.

  23. #223
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    Guys

    Loads of info here the post looks like something I may be interested in. However pardon the ignorance I have not had one of these in hand and the measurement I am interested in is from the absolute bottom of the 380 to the bottom of the silver collar. I am trying to determine if I can get the full length into my Mojo, hey I have short legs so I may need to bottom it out to use this effectively.

    Thanks!

  24. #224
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    my wife has hers fully insterted into her mojo

    as like to fuilly instert mine into her mojo

  25. #225
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    Good job! A word of thanks...

    Just wanted to say thanks to BaekerX1 and everyone else on this Reverb thread, super useful info. Much appreciated.

    I've been holding off on the Reverb for a little bit but Santa hooked one up. With the info here I think I can get it dialed without too much trouble.

    Will post a report and pics shortly. Happy and Healthy 2011 people. Already planning for a years worth of epics.
    - -benja- -

  26. #226
    tma
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    Guys,

    Here's a couple of shots of my reverb and the routing I've made for the Giant Reign 2.


    UP





    DOWN





    Routing




    Remote (the matchmaker is really useful with the XO)




    Bike Shot




    "It's the driver, not the car..."

  27. #227
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    Quote Originally Posted by AvalonTrails
    Anyone else have trouble with the RS Reverb not being fully locked from lifting upward? When I first got mine, it was totally stuck. After I bled it, it worked very well, and IIRC, would not rise if you lifted up on the saddle. Now it does behave this way. SRAM says this is normal, and there is a note in the manual about this possibility, but I seem to recall that it did not originally do this. I may try another bleed. Is anyone else observing this spring-up behavior or lack thereof?
    I tried another bleed last night. It was not helpful in stopping the spring-up behavior.

    I am lookiing for others observations...

  28. #228
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    Mine will also move if you lift with enough force... I don't see this as an issue however.

  29. #229
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    Right, I'm on the verge of ordering a Reverb but just want to make sure at full extension it's not going to be too long.....
    With my current post I'm at about 195mm from seat post clamp to the bottom of the seat rails which is as high as I can go and be comfortable....



    Could someone please do the same measurement with a Reverb fully inserted and extended and post a pic, cheers.

  30. #230
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    Look at post #214, 1/3rd of the way down this page.

  31. #231
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    I was hoping someone could post a pic similar to mine so I can so for a myself, not that I don't believe post #214 i'd just like to see it in a pic when spending all that money.

  32. #232
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    Neil, I just measured mine. It's about 187mm. It will definitely work for you.

    I was in the same boat, and my Reverb is all the way down to the collar. Then two days ago I bought a new saddle (WTB Rocket V SLT) which is higher than my old one. Now it's a tad too long fully extended.

  33. #233
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guy.Ford
    Very true, though that would seem pointless to me, then I would just buy a dif post, or I could buy a smaller frame.

    Im currently considering a Firebird in either a 19 or 21, Im 6'4" so either would work but need to be sure if the post will fit either frame which may have helped me decide between either size. Seems it would work so no worries, now if only I could decide on frame size!!!
    yeah, after reading ukk's post i see why that would be an issue. by how much travel is it too long by? because i have it set where my "ideal" trail height is like a .8 of full extension, ideal climbing height is like .95 and i even have a bit more for that little extra "umph" to get up those brutal hills. just something to consider if its not too long by much.

  34. #234
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    Quote Originally Posted by polymathic
    Neil, I just measured mine. It's about 187mm. It will definitely work for you.

    I was in the same boat, and my Reverb is all the way down to the collar. Then two days ago I bought a new saddle (WTB Rocket V SLT) which is higher than my old one. Now it's a tad too long fully extended.
    Cheers mate, I'll get one ordered asap!

  35. #235
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    Just ordered one for $245 new 30.9 380mm on ebay. Seller had 1 more.

    Any stumpy fsr owners running one and have a good hose routing idea. Since we don't have cables on TT, is it long enough to run on downtube?
    Last edited by larlev; 01-02-2011 at 11:55 AM.
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  36. #236
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    Hi,
    Been keeping my eye on this thread as I have been waiting for the Reverb to become available in the UK. I have now just purchased one from the guys at my local trail centre (oneplanetadventure) and can't wait to fit it to my carbon nomad .

  37. #237
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    Quote Originally Posted by nixgame22
    Read up? Did you read what he typed? Baecker said, "I assume I need a left-sided xloc to mount it under the bar on the right?"

    By the way the button is angled, you would need a left-handed remote to work correctly under the bar on the right.
    I found a solution for those who have broken the plunger on the remote: From what I can gather, there is not a replacement plunger available yet from SRAM. Instead of fixing the remote, I used an xloc remote the belongs to a XX Rockshox fork. The remote for the fork works differently from the Reverb remote in that it requires a second push to unlock the plunger once pushed in. However, It does work very nicely to actuate the seatpost. I will replace the plunger on the Reverb remote once one is available. In the mean time I am back in action.

    BTW, I mounted my remote under the bar similar to nixgame22 and it works reasonably well. There is less interference with my XO shifter and Avid brakes in the most inboard position instead of out near the grip. I still think that the remote should be redesigned to work specifically under the bar where it is better protected.

  38. #238
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    Got mine yesterday. Set up today and with a quick bleed, functioning perfectly. Now I will see if these things will really hold up to pacific northwest winter riding.

    Got it set upside down on l side of bar inside my shifter, just have to reach a little, not too cumbersome but install is clean.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails RockShox Reverb Thread-img_3392.jpg  

    RockShox Reverb Thread-img_3394.jpg  

    RockShox Reverb Thread-img_3395.jpg  

    Last edited by q2xltrgt; 01-05-2011 at 06:05 PM.

  39. #239
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    I installed my Reverb today. This thing is awesome. Like a lot of other here, mine did not work out of the box. It took my entire 6' 175 lbs. frame to compress the post and then had to hold the button in a solid 2 minutes for it to fully extend. Thanks to all here for posting such good info. It made shortening the hose and bleeding a breeze. Works like a champ now. I could see how someone who did not know about this thread could get very upset after installing it and it not working. I hope Rock Shox plans to include instructions on bleeding in the box in the future. It would save them a lot of customer service calls.

  40. #240
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    argh, i really want one of these but i only have 180mm of post showing. Someone please engineer a solution!

  41. #241
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    Here's how I routed my cable. Mine worked perfectly out of the box. If the cable was a tad longer it would have been perfect.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails RockShox Reverb Thread-shock-3-.jpg  

    RockShox Reverb Thread-shock-4-.jpg  

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  42. #242
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    Oh man. My Reverb had gotten pretty slow here in the cold so I went ahead and topped it off again today. I did it with it dialed all the way to slow, capped it off, and then turned it to fast. I had it pretty good before, but OMG is it fast now on the fastest setting. Almost too fast. It pretty much jumps right up. I might have to turn it slower a few clicks. I don't want to get punched in the nads.

    I did this by just topping it off at the lever. Just thought I'd let people know that you can get it REALLY fast easily if you want to. With a good fill it releases and lowers a lot easier too.
    Last edited by BaeckerX1; 01-08-2011 at 09:04 PM.
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  43. #243
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    Reverb problems

    I've had my Reverb for a couple of months now. I rebled it when it was new and worked flawlessly but only lasted for a few weeks. Getting the post down was pretty difficult and needed a lot of force, extension was too slow as well. Then I rebled it again and it started to work perfectly again, but now after a few weeks action is too slow once again. Any suggestions? By the way, when I did the second bleed, I had a hard time getting it to work right. Finally I had to turn the knob into full slow like I always do, but also pull the plunger out completely as turning the knob into slow pulls it in, then do the bleed. Then it worked good. One thing I'm wondering is why the actuation changes after a few weeks. I don't see any leaks in the line which can cause this.

  44. #244
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    That does not seem normal, john85d. You could have a very slow leak causing this. Anyhow, if this were happening to my Reverb ever couple of weeks, I'd send it back or contact SRAM.

  45. #245
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    Here are a few pics of how I stopped cable rub on Reverb using velcro...it's cheap and works perfect. Nice and neat. I cut a little smaller than a width of standard electrical tape, so it would wrap without overlap. It's the industrial stuff from Walmart..located in craft section
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails RockShox Reverb Thread-cable.jpg  

    RockShox Reverb Thread-cablevelcro.jpg  

    RockShox Reverb Thread-cablevelcro2.jpg  

    Go Solar...

  46. #246
    BMJ
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    Quote Originally Posted by john85D
    I've had my Reverb for a couple of months now. I rebled it when it was new and worked flawlessly but only lasted for a few weeks. Getting the post down was pretty difficult and needed a lot of force, extension was too slow as well. Then I rebled it again and it started to work perfectly again, but now after a few weeks action is too slow once again. Any suggestions? By the way, when I did the second bleed, I had a hard time getting it to work right. Finally I had to turn the knob into full slow like I always do, but also pull the plunger out completely as turning the knob into slow pulls it in, then do the bleed. Then it worked good. One thing I'm wondering is why the actuation changes after a few weeks. I don't see any leaks in the line which can cause this.
    I've noticed this with mine as well. Kinda odd. I'll bleed it and have it running super fast and after a few weeks it's slowing down again. No leaks can be found and outside of this, everything is working great.

    My only thought on this, outside of an internal leak, is housing expansion. It appears that it takes very little fluid change to effect the speed at which the remote activates the post. If this is so, a very long hydrolic hose experiencing expansion issues could be the problem. Be it, hot to cold impact, or pressure from the constant activation of the post, hard to say. One would hope that like replacing a deriallier cable and stretching it out, it will finally settle down. Problem with this concept is that unlike a brakeline, it's not braided, so it could potentially keep expanding. Also, it's possible that the hydrolic brake lines experience this as well but the open resevior system compensates for it and you never notice it.

    Hmmmmmmmmmm?

  47. #247
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    Quote Originally Posted by BMJ
    I've noticed this with mine as well. Kinda odd. I'll bleed it and have it running super fast and after a few weeks it's slowing down again. No leaks can be found and outside of this, everything is working great.

    My only thought on this, outside of an internal leak, is housing expansion. It appears that it takes very little fluid change to effect the speed at which the remote activates the post. If this is so, a very long hydrolic hose experiencing expansion issues could be the problem. Be it, hot to cold impact, or pressure from the constant activation of the post, hard to say. One would hope that like replacing a deriallier cable and stretching it out, it will finally settle down. Problem with this concept is that unlike a brakeline, it's not braided, so it could potentially keep expanding. Also, it's possible that the hydrolic brake lines experience this as well but the open resevior system compensates for it and you never notice it.

    Hmmmmmmmmmm?
    Last week when it was cold and rainy, the temperature had the same effect on mine. Very sluggish until I added more fluid to the remote, then very fast. Now, a week later it has slowed a tiny bit. Works great, although mine has developed a slight fore/aft play. I don't see this as a problem unless more play develops.

  48. #248
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    Quote Originally Posted by larlev
    Here are a few pics of how I stopped cable rub on Reverb using velcro...it's cheap and works perfect. Nice and neat. I cut a little smaller than a width of standard electrical tape, so it would wrap without overlap. It's the industrial stuff from Walmart..located in craft section
    That's a pretty clever fix. Do you think the velcro will pick dirt and become sandpaper though?

  49. #249
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    Quote Originally Posted by car_nut
    That's a pretty clever fix. Do you think the velcro will pick dirt and become sandpaper though?
    Hmmm....good question. I wash my bike after every ride...can you tell? HaHa, so I doubt it would be a problem. If it does I'll just replace it. Took all of 3 minutes to do.
    Go Solar...

  50. #250
    mtbr member
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    Quote Originally Posted by BMJ
    I've noticed this with mine as well. Kinda odd. I'll bleed it and have it running super fast and after a few weeks it's slowing down again. No leaks can be found and outside of this, everything is working great.

    My only thought on this, outside of an internal leak, is housing expansion. It appears that it takes very little fluid change to effect the speed at which the remote activates the post. If this is so, a very long hydrolic hose experiencing expansion issues could be the problem. Be it, hot to cold impact, or pressure from the constant activation of the post, hard to say. One would hope that like replacing a deriallier cable and stretching it out, it will finally settle down. Problem with this concept is that unlike a brakeline, it's not braided, so it could potentially keep expanding. Also, it's possible that the hydrolic brake lines experience this as well but the open resevior system compensates for it and you never notice it.

    Hmmmmmmmmmm?
    Hmm.....you have a point here. I wonder why RS didn't just go with brake hoses. That would give us better options if we decide to change the hose in the future. Anyway, I'll just do another bleed and check for leaks again....

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