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  1. #401
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    Has anyone who bought their post from Outside Outfitters talked t them about the new hose?
    The mountains are calling and I must go

  2. #402
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    I'll search thru these pages, but does anyone know the weight difference between the 380 and 420 mm versions of the 30.9 reverb? thx.
    Originally posted by bucksaw87
    I still fail to see how mustaches, fixies, and PBR are ironic.

  3. #403
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    Quote Originally Posted by frorider
    I'll search thru these pages, but does anyone know the weight difference between the 380 and 420 mm versions of the 30.9 reverb? thx.
    First post of the thread.
    Gotta get up to get down.
    LMB

  4. #404
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    Props to SRAM.

    My Reverb got stuck at +4. Apparently, the hose reacts with the oil causing a gas bubble, defeating the bleed.

    One quick call and a new hose on the way under warranty.

    The post is good enough to be worth a bit of tweaking, so long as in the end it becomes more reliable.

  5. #405
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    routing on a Trance X

    Just got my Reverb and ready to install on a large Trance X. Would anyone have a pic or two of your cable treatment on a Giant product? Is it critical to use friction grease/carbon bond? Product looks amazing. thanks

  6. #406
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    First ride on my reverb tonight.

    The goods:
    Post worked awesome out of the box
    remote feels great, smooth action, nice seat clamp, belld kit included, all good things!

    The bad:
    OK, so I bought XO brakes because they were matchmaker compatible, and I knew I would be running a reverb and SRAM shifters. Then, I shelled out an extra $40 for the matchmaker clamps (just slightly different than the stock clamps that come with the brakes). Now I get the seatpost, and WTF, it ain't matchmaker- looks like you now have to buy the special "matchmaker reverb remote" which is $120?

    Feels like a bait-and-switch to me since SRAM markets the reverb as "matchmaker compatible".. with no pictures or info on whats actually required...and there really is no reason to provide a non-matchmaker option.

    So that's lame SRAM- F U for that!

    Well the good news is, it's nothing I can't hack together with a dremel and some parts from the $40 clamp.

  7. #407
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    Quote Originally Posted by FM
    The bad:
    OK, so I bought XO brakes because they were matchmaker compatible, and I knew I would be running a reverb and SRAM shifters. Then, I shelled out an extra $40 for the matchmaker clamps (just slightly different than the stock clamps that come with the brakes). Now I get the seatpost, and WTF, it ain't matchmaker- looks like you now have to buy the special "matchmaker reverb remote" which is $120?

    Feels like a bait-and-switch to me since SRAM markets the reverb as "matchmaker compatible".. with no pictures or info on whats actually required...and there really is no reason to provide a non-matchmaker option.

    So that's lame SRAM- F U for that!

    Well the good news is, it's nothing I can't hack together with a dremel and some parts from the $40 clamp.
    What are you talking about? The Reverb remote is a two-in-one clamp. It can be ran solo, or function as the matchmaker clamp itself for the brake and shifter. There's no need for a "special $120 remote," because I don't think it exists. You're probably seeing the remote as a replacement for $120, but it's no different than the remote that came with the Reverb.
    The Reverb remote REPLACES the the Elixir mount. Very simple and nothing additional to buy.
    Looking at the remote, it's easy to see how it will also function as the Matchmaker. I don't understand why you're having issues seeing this.

    Maintain internal heights.

  8. #408
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    Quote Originally Posted by nixgame22
    What are you talking about? The Reverb remote is a two-in-one clamp.
    Looking at the remote, it's easy to see how it will also function as the Matchmaker. I don't understand why you're having issues seeing this.
    My reverb remote looks nothing like yours. Looks like they changed the design...or possibly mine is an OE version with a different remote. With the stock remote installed, there was no "opening" on mine for the brake lever to fit into.

    It ended up not being a huge project to pull the hinge pins out of my spare matchmaker clamp and the reverb remote, and then swap pieces. I just need a slightly longer fastener now. Here's what I had left over; the top piece is what I removed from my reverb (note it's much "deeper" than your clamp). The bottom piece is left over from the matchmaker clamp.... also, a screen grab of the parts list from SRAM's site showing different part numbers for the MMX remotes. Universal cycles lists them for $120.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails RockShox Reverb Thread-reverb-parts.jpg  

    RockShox Reverb Thread-photo-11-.jpg  


  9. #409
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    It's so simple, guys: it comes in two flavours, matchmaker compatible or no-matchmaker compatible.
    I don't use sram components on my handlebar, I'm quite happy with the no-mm version.

  10. #410
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    nixgame22, where did you get the version with Left remote??

  11. #411
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    Quote Originally Posted by h2ored
    nixgame22, where did you get the version with Left remote??
    I want to apologize. I just re-read the post that I made last night, and I sould like a jerk. I really didn't mean for it to come out like that.
    The pictures are not mine, just the first few images that showed up in a google.com/image search for "reverb remote." I posted them in hopes that it would help FM see how it can function as both a Matchmaker or stand alone clamp.
    I had no idea that they're offering the post with a different remote now, that is very disappointing.
    When I bought mine, there was no option for which remote I would like, or even if I wanted a left or right remote.
    I think what FM did is awesome and good thinking, and I appreciate him posting the pictures.
    Maintain internal heights.

  12. #412
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    Quote Originally Posted by nixgame22
    I want to apologize. I just re-read the post that I made last night, and I sould like a jerk. I really didn't mean for it to come out like that.
    Hey, no worries at all.
    Honestly..... I was a little pissed at Rockshox, for the same reasons you posted! It seemed so simple...

    Quote Originally Posted by kiodo
    It's so simple, guys: it comes in two flavours, matchmaker compatible or no-matchmaker compatible.
    So simple... yet Rockshox says nothing about it on their page? and every web store I see simply shows 30.9 and 31.6, no mention of the MMX compatibly (or not)....WTF Sram?

    I'm curious as to if this is a running design change (i.e. matchmaker is now an "upgrade") or they really do offer both options at the same price point, and it's just not documented anywhere.

    regardless my hack job came out nice, so no worries.
    I'll post up a pic later, it's kind of interesting as I am running 1x9 with the remote under the front brake.

  13. #413
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    Quote Originally Posted by BaeckerX1
    I installed my new hose kit last night (finally got around to it). I gotta say, the actual installation isn't complicated, but damn if that new hose isn't difficult to push onto those new barbs. OMG. Even with wrapping a rag around the cable and then using pliers to push it on, I still marked the hose a bit with the pliers. I rocked it back and forth and spun it while pushing it on like SRAM's instructions, but it still was a pain.

    The new hose seems a lot better, but since it's stiffer it doesn't flex as well as the old one. I had to train it a bit to bow at the back before it would go down without pushing the cable all the way to the front and making a big bow at the bars. Once I did that it worked well.
    I put a little grease on the barbs... As far as putting the hose on over the barbs, I found the wiggle from side to side and push method worked better than rotate and push. I like the new hose, I was able to install it with the 3 cable clips and the guide that came with the unit and did not have to use zip ties this time. I also added a bit of length to the original install so I can pull the post out to the min-insertion level to clamp it in the bike stand without stressing the hose. Prior to this, I had to make sure I pushed the seat down first before pulling the post out to the min insertion level.

  14. #414
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    Just got my new Reverb out of the box installed it in the frame and operated it a few times by hand, haven't even installed the saddle yet, when the bottom literally fell out of it. Retaining circlip is gone and it doesn't work at all now. The lower scrader valve, seal assy just pushed out.

    I had crap experience with prior SRAM products, and went against my initial feelings 'cause I need a post with zero setback and my choice as between the Reverb or Joplin 4 (I have a credit with the bike shop and those are the models they carry).

    I'm really wanting to just send it back and just give up on the seat dropper post.

    Those with real time on it, how's the reliability? I'm really discouraged with it and don't wanna keep fighting problems.

  15. #415
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    Sounds like they way most of my orders go, be it bike related or home improvement. Sometimes I feel that carma is against me or some higher being is trying to tell me something. I'm pretty persistant, so I just push on.

    Mine, since I bled it, has been great! The only thing that I've had to rectify is the spongy hose issue and SRAM stepped up and rectified it.

    Just assume that it's a fluke, kinda like when I ordered my new bathtub with a right hand drain and got a left hand drain in the box, or when I ordered my shower set in brushed nickel and the shower head was chrome. Push on through.... I'd say, to date, the Reverb is the most refined in the adjustable post catagory.

  16. #416
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    Quote Originally Posted by FM
    So simple... yet Rockshox says nothing about it on their page? and every web store I see simply shows 30.9 and 31.6, no mention of the MMX compatibly (or not)....WTF Sram?.
    Check this
    and this
    .

    See description: first is Matchmaker X ready, second one is "Standard Schelle (nicht für Match Maker X geeignet)".
    wf-bikes-parts is the ebay seller where I got mine, he clearly enough specifies what kind of lever it has

  17. #417
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    WTF is all of this about? Anyone have any intel? I am (was) about to buy one, but certainly don't want last year's prom dress color...especially not for $300

    http://declinemagazine.com/content.php?itemid=5928

    Quote Originally Posted by declinemagazine
    We spent a few days in Santa Cruz riding the Elixir 9 brakes as well as a revised version of the Reverb adjustable height seatpost.

  18. #418
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    Quote Originally Posted by KrisRayner

    Those with real time on it, how's the reliability? I'm really discouraged with it and don't wanna keep fighting problems.
    I have about 100 hours on my Reverb, which I bought the day it was released. Used on every ride many times, and in nasty weather, too. After a ride, I wipe down the post. So far, no issues. It's perfect. I only had to bleed it once, upon receiving it; it did not work out of the box. That's not an issue as SRAM provided a generous quality bleed kit.

  19. #419
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  20. #420
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    Hi,
    I have a Reverb for about 2 months, it was quite slow at the beginning so the shop technician did bleed. Its speed slowly degraded so at this point there is a need for another bleed I guess.
    I want to do it myself this time, - I am just confused if I need to perform a complete system bleed or just a remote?
    Also, should I ask for a hose replacement? Why the new one is better than the old?
    Thanks in advance for any help,
    Paul

  21. #421
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    Paul,

    The new hose is a much more stout hydraulic hose, so the longevity and connection to the remote and post are more substantial. There have been a couple of reports of leaks developing at the post/remote, but at least one of these was user error nicking the barb. A bunch of us have had the post need a re-bleed. There has been unconfirmed speculation that the old, rather thin and un-reinforced hose stretched a little causing this need of rebleeding (I believe this is possible). No matter how you look at it, Rockshox has a replacement so there is at least one reason behind it (and I don't blame them for not telling the market). Therefore, I would totally replace the hose if you are going to rebleed. And don't be intimidated--do a full bleed--it is very easy (and necessary when you replace the entire hose).

    good luck--I have ridden mine since September, throughout winter, and pretty damn hard. I love it, no issues. A little play, but it only bugs me when I am off the bike.

  22. #422
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    I had my new reverb post bled in november/december have only ridden it once back then and now the post needs to be bled again it moves like a snail. After reading this ill see about getting a new hose from rockshok first... thanks

  23. #423
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    Anyone knows how can I contact (by email) SRAM to ask for a new hose to be shipped to me? (My local distributor isn't very cooperative - suggests to bleed again...)

  24. #424
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Nice Guy
    WTF is all of this about? Anyone have any intel? I am (was) about to buy one, but certainly don't want last year's prom dress color...especially not for $300

    http://declinemagazine.com/content.php?itemid=5928
    What's the issue? The link you posted is the release info of Avid's new disc brakes, nothing on the Reverb.
    The new brakes will work with the Reverb remote, which is a great move.
    Maintain internal heights.

  25. #425
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    Just call them--I found them more than helpful. SRAM # 1-312-664-8800

  26. #426
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    Mine has a little play but not a deal breaker. It is a sweet seatpost smooth and the remote is solid especially if you use the sram matchmaker x and connect the remote with XX or X.0. brakes.

    The upgraded cable is nice. Very solid.



  27. #427
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    Woo hoo! Just rcv'd a left hand remote. They're finally out!
    I'm finding my rt hand is just too busy w/ shifting and braking to also deal w/ seatpost adjmnts. So, this left hand unit is going to be a welcomed thing

    Found mine on eDiscountBikes for $99...cheapest I found.
    Naysayers never apologize. Critics go to their grave thinking everyone else is wrong.
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  28. #428
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pau11y
    Woo hoo! Just rcv'd a left hand remote. They're finally out!
    I'm finding my rt hand is just too busy w/ shifting and braking to also deal w/ seatpost adjmnts. So, this left hand unit is going to be a welcomed thing

    Found mine on eDiscountBikes for $99...cheapest I found.
    How's the Reverb working out for you?
    Gotta get up to get down.
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  29. #429
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    Quote Originally Posted by BaeckerX1
    How's the Reverb working out for you?
    It's dewin well. Drilled out the BLTc's cable stops and now have the hose running in the proper guides. Had to cut the hose again and rebleed. But after this bleeding, the post's speed increased. Good thing too
    Next, I unbolt the barb from the RH remote and drop it in the LH unit, and bleed again. RH unit will be good for spare parts, yeah?
    What I'm curious about is if I can reduce the extension by 1 inch. My post is bottomed on the frame and at full ext, it's still too long/tall. 1 inch reduction would be perfect! So, anyone mod'd the post yet?

    P
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  30. #430
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    Just built up a new Sultan with the Reverb. Everything worked straight out of the box (post has the new cable style - I suspect that most of the DOA issues people experienced were caused by chemical reaction between the fluid and the tubing material resulting in bubbles during transit).

    Only complaint is the positioning of the remote and the match-maker clamp - with an X9 groupo, the clamp screw is covered by the shifter - so to make any adjustment to the match-maker clamp, you literally have to remove the shifter - no fun. I also was not at all happy with the above-bar position. So I've moved the remote to the left bar - it's a little bit of a stretch to get to it, but not bad.

    Looking forward to my first ride.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails RockShox Reverb Thread-img_2482.jpg  


  31. #431
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    Good job! loving the reverb!

    just got mine. worked flawless out of the box, no bleeding needed. will have to bled since i will have to shorten the hose later or maybe not. right now the cable been routed in way that its ride-able.

  32. #432
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    When I swapped my RH to (a proper) LH remote, I used the shifter mount from the RH on my LH clamp. I was able to get a better reach on the remote trigger/shifter combo, whereas before I had to reach for the remote while the shifters felt too close to the grip.
    Naysayers never apologize. Critics go to their grave thinking everyone else is wrong.
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  33. #433
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    This may have been covered in this thread but, if anyone breaks their remote you can use the standard X-loc remote button kit as a replacement as the Reverb specific parts aren't yet available from SRAM. I just did the install of the new parts last night which I ordered from Universal cycles for about $35... You need to remove the silver spacer from the new X-loc plunger and them swap the o-ring from the Reverb onto the new plunger (don't use the supplied o-ring)... Once installed, you should only need to bleed the remote itself. To be honest, my post has never functioned as well. Oh, and I am still using the original hose... waiting for warranty replacement.

  34. #434
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    Went to load up my FS bike for tomorrow's ride since I haven't been on it in quite awhile (been riding the HT 1x9). Jumped on to give 'er a quick spin and the Reverb post was stuck in the UP position. No matter what I did it wouldn't budge.

    It had to be bled out of the box about 5-6 times before it finally worked. Now it's been sitting for about 50-60 days and the post doesn't work again. It worked the last time I rode it--skip ahead 2 months and it's not working. Back to the shop it goes. I guess they need to call Rock Shox for this replacement hose?

    I'm wishing I'd just stuck with my Gravity Dropper--at least it worked. This Reverb has been very problematic and I haven't even used it that much.
    I hope you have a big trunk... 'cuz I'm puttin' my bike in it.

  35. #435
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    Get the bleed kit and learn to do it yourself.

    It took me about 15 minutes from opening the box to having a functional post. (including mucking about with bleeding it.)

    LOVE it.
    Will ride singletrack for food...

  36. #436
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pau11y
    When I swapped my RH to (a proper) LH remote, I used the shifter mount from the RH on my LH clamp. I was able to get a better reach on the remote trigger/shifter combo, whereas before I had to reach for the remote while the shifters felt too close to the grip.
    Paully, post some pics.
    Maintain internal heights.

  37. #437
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    Has anyone been able to get the new hose from CRC?

    Can one contact RS to get it directly from them?

    / Mike

  38. #438
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    I got my post in October and it worked flawlessly right out of the box. However after storing for the winter my post is now locked up. Any ideas about what could have happened? And what to do to fix it?

  39. #439
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    Quote Originally Posted by shanem
    I got my post in October and it worked flawlessly right out of the box. However after storing for the winter my post is now locked up. Any ideas about what could have happened? And what to do to fix it?
    did you do a full system bleed?

  40. #440
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    Quote Originally Posted by b-kul
    did you do a full system bleed?
    No I didn't. I didn't think it would be necessary since it worked fine.

  41. #441
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    Well, as mentioned over and over in this thread, that's the first thing to do when it does not go up or down. So applying the advice here would be a good first step.

  42. #442
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    If it's true about the reactivity between the fluid and oe hose, I'm guessing the fluid has gradually digested the hose over the storage period.

  43. #443
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    I can't believe all the problems I've read on this forum about the Reverb yet most of you guys continue to defend it. NO WAY am I spending $300 on a component that doesn't work like it should out of the box! Thing sounds like garbage.

    Is there any other adjustable seatpost that is more reliable or are they all quirky up to this point?
    Last edited by Pauldotcom; 04-07-2011 at 07:00 AM.
    “People fear death even more than pain. It's strange that they fear death. Life hurts a lot more than death." JM

  44. #444
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pauldotcom
    I can't believe all the problems I've read on this forum about the Reverb yet most of you guys continue to defend it. NO WAY am I spending $300 on a component that doesn't work like it should out of the box! Thing sounds like garbage.

    Is there any other adjustable seatpost that is more reliable or are they all quirky up to this point?

    It's a hydraulic component. That's just the physics of it. No reason to get mad about it. Have you never had to bleed your brakes?
    Maintain internal heights.

  45. #445
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pauldotcom
    I can't believe all the problems I've read on this forum about the Reverb yet most of you guys continue to defend it. NO WAY am I spending $300 on a component that doesn't work like it should out of the box! Thing sounds like garbage.

    Is there any other adjustable seatpost that is more reliable or are they all quirky up to this point?
    So you need to bleed it out of the box. Do you not buy brakes that require to be bled? Or brakes that require you to install and tighten cable and housing? I don't see how a bleed requirement qualifies as not working out of then box, especially when SRAM includes a complete high quality bleed kit. Truth is, no bike component works out of the box; it needs to be installed, setup, and adjusted first.

    Anyhow, aside from an initial bleed, mine has worked flawlessly since.

  46. #446
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    Bleed kit included?? I thought the kit was another $45. Yes, I did bleed my brakes out of the box because I shortened the hose.

    It is a toss up between the KSI 950 and the Reverb... From what I'm reading, they both have some problems...

    I broke my arm last week so I have a good 6 weeks before buying lol.. (surgery today).. If I had the drop-post, I'd like to think I would have moved back more and avoided the crash..
    “People fear death even more than pain. It's strange that they fear death. Life hurts a lot more than death." JM

  47. #447
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    The kit is included, and it's one of those nice kits with two syringes, screw in tips, a Torx wrench for the valves, and a generous supply of fluid. If there were no kit included, I'd be pretty pissed, in fact.

  48. #448
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    Bled mine yesterday and it now works flawlessly again. Just seems strange that it work fine and then after storage need to be bled. I thought that hydraulic lines were a sealed system - ie -no air can get in or out unless you open the system. When I bled it there was tons of air in the line

  49. #449
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    Quote Originally Posted by shanem
    Bled mine yesterday and it now works flawlessly again. Just seems strange that it work fine and then after storage need to be bled. I thought that hydraulic lines were a sealed system - ie -no air can get in or out unless you open the system. When I bled it there was tons of air in the line
    There is a new hydraulic line available from SRAM to resolve the air in the line issue.... contact the shop where you got the post or phone SRAM direct and they will hook you up.

  50. #450
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    Just bled mine following the basic directions in the first post. My shop had installed the new hose after accidentally breaking the other one off at the post due to a slip while removing the bike from the workstand, whoops. It was noticeably slower than it had been new, so I decided to go ahead and bleed it myself, or at least top it off. I've never bled even a brake system before, and I have to say this is probably the easiest bike maintenance task I've ever done. I do most all of my other maintenance and had wrenched in a shop before the advent of hydraulic brakes, but I just never got around to messing with my own hydraulic disc brakes. Now I'll probably go ahead and bleed those on my other bike as the front is feeling a bit soft. Thanks for the info guys, great post.
    Wow, GJ, Fruita, and Moab trails are riding great. This is a killer spring for riding!

  51. #451
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    Anyone from the UK managed to get the replacement hose?

  52. #452
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    I got my Reverb last month and looking at the pics of the new hose mine came already fitted.

  53. #453
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    According to the pics, I seem to already have the new hose. After the dealer's technician installed the new post, it worked like a charm, pretty fast. Now after let's say only 10 hours of riding, it has slowed down a lot since. Fastest position is like slowest before, slowest hardly moves at all now.

    Does it already need bleeding? Is this possible, or do you think of it as being broken?

  54. #454
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    Quote Originally Posted by Enrice
    According to the pics, I seem to already have the new hose. After the dealer's technician installed the new post, it worked like a charm, pretty fast. Now after let's say only 10 hours of riding, it has slowed down a lot since. Fastest position is like slowest before, slowest hardly moves at all now.

    Does it already need bleeding? Is this possible, or do you think of it as being broken?
    I highly doubt it's broken. It wouldn't operate if it was. It probably doesn't even need a "true" bleed. Try this. Turn the post to full slow, get some fluid in a syringe, hook up the syringe at the remote lever and push more fluid into it until it tops off. You won't be able to push in the syringe any further. Cap it, and turn it to full fast again and operate post. That should speed it up and take less than 5 minutes of your time.

    If it needs this after such a short time though, I would make sure you have the new hose. Retailers may be trying to offload the old ones without replacing it. It's simple to tell really. If your hose feels like plastic, it's the old one. If it feels somewhat "rubbery" and stiff, like a hydraulic brake hose, you have the new one.

    On a sidenote, everyone who has installed the new hose, how are you finding the post now? Have you had to bleed it at all again? I haven't had to bleed mine once since installing the new hose and it hasn't been slowing down like before. What are your results/experiences?
    Gotta get up to get down.
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  55. #455
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    back in the saddle again

    About 2 weeks ago I finally received my new Reverb. I give props to SRAM for giving me a full replacement (resetting: mine lost all fluid at the post versus having problem with remote and hydraulics of remote system)-- looks to be with the new hose. What I don't like is that it took almost a month. I'm hearing a creaking noise coming from the saddle as I did on my previous Reverb. I thought on 1st that maybe I didn't tighten the saddle clamp bolts enough. I know I have this time and I'm wondering if that sound is the sound of the reverb innards grinding toward another failure. Anyone else hear creaking on their Reverb, especially under high torque going uphill???

  56. #456
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    Quote Originally Posted by attaboy
    About 2 weeks ago I finally received my new Reverb. I give props to SRAM for giving me a full replacement (resetting: mine lost all fluid at the post versus having problem with remote and hydraulics of remote system)-- looks to be with the new hose. What I don't like is that it took almost a month. I'm hearing a creaking noise coming from the saddle as I did on my previous Reverb. I thought on 1st that maybe I didn't tighten the saddle clamp bolts enough. I know I have this time and I'm wondering if that sound is the sound of the reverb innards grinding toward another failure. Anyone else hear creaking on their Reverb, especially under high torque going uphill???

    grease your seat rails and all the clamping parts where they interface. Your probably just hearing the seat parts grinding together like a bb shell or headset might. I doubt your having internal issues. My KS i-900, Speedball, and Reverb all did this. Grease was the fix.

  57. #457
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    The seat clamp bolts interface on the Reverb can be kinda tricky. Those little u shaped washers have to seat a certain way when you tighten the bolts down otherwise you get creaking popping sound. I was having that problem. I just greased everything and reinstalled it carefully, no problems anymore.

  58. #458
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    Just swapped my non-remote GD post to a Reverb. No ride time yet, but did a cut/bleed, and made sure everything plays well with the linkage and rear travel. Nothing is getting unduly rubbed/pulled/caught.



    Cutting and bleeding was easy. Watched the SRAM vids about doing so on youtube and had it done very quickly. Putzing around the garage and driveway, everything seems trouble free so far.

    Running the right remote on the left, so it is more or less where my thumb is anyhow. Feels good.



    Roughly 90 gms more than the GD non-remote post. Just fine, for the functionality gained.

    I actually swapped the GD post on my hardtail over to a remote Turbo for the $80 cost of them sending the parts. Parts arrived in two days, and took under ten minutes to swap.

    Same deal -right hand lever on the left under the bar.

    This bike has a 30.0mm post size, so options are limited. Since I already had the GD post, swapping it over cheaply was a no-brainer. Could have just swapped the post on the Banshee the same way, but what can I say? New part lust overcame me.

    Swapped the cheesy little flat-head screws out for some Allen heads.
    Rode with this one yesterday. I used it a lot without the remote, but man, it was sweet being able to drop it without taking a hand off the bar!


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  59. #459
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    Creak killing

    I'd suggest anti-seize compound vs grease. Only grease for parts where you actually want to reduce friction...moving parts. If you're providing a lube layer to parts that aren't supposed to move and thereby prevent creaking, use anti-seize. And unlike grease, just film the surface, or the start of the bolt, as this stuff will get dragged into whatever you're mating together. Auto parts stores have huge bottles of it for the same price we pay for a small tube of "high end" grease from bike shops.
    Naysayers never apologize. Critics go to their grave thinking everyone else is wrong.
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  60. #460
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pau11y
    I'd suggest anti-seize compound vs grease. Only grease for parts where you actually want to reduce friction...moving parts. If you're providing a lube layer to parts that aren't supposed to move and thereby prevent creaking, use anti-seize. And unlike grease, just film the surface, or the start of the bolt, as this stuff will get dragged into whatever you're mating together. Auto parts stores have huge bottles of it for the same price we pay for a small tube of "high end" grease from bike shops.
    Auto parts store have anti-seize compound? Can you provide a product or manufacture name?

    Thanks

  61. #461
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    Bonking ... not feelin' well

    Quote Originally Posted by BaeckerX1
    I highly doubt it's broken. It wouldn't operate if it was. It probably doesn't even need a "true" bleed. Try this. Turn the post to full slow, get some fluid in a syringe, hook up the syringe at the remote lever and push more fluid into it until it tops off. You won't be able to push in the syringe any further. Cap it, and turn it to full fast again and operate post. That should speed it up and take less than 5 minutes of your time.

    If it needs this after such a short time though, I would make sure you have the new hose. Retailers may be trying to offload the old ones without replacing it. It's simple to tell really. If your hose feels like plastic, it's the old one. If it feels somewhat "rubbery" and stiff, like a hydraulic brake hose, you have the new one.
    According to the pics I'm sure I already have the new hose.

    I tried your proposal, and also did a full bleed of the whole system. Now speed WOULD be fast again - but I got another problem (maybe this was already before and I only didn't notice): the remote operates well only with a lot of force applied; the firmer I press, the faster the post moves; kind of "analog". I am not that strong for this kind of function
    Shouldn't the remote operate as a kind of "digital" on/off switch?

    I'm a bit pissed.

  62. #462
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    Quote Originally Posted by Enrice
    According to the pics I'm sure I already have the new hose.

    I tried your proposal, and also did a full bleed of the whole system. Now speed WOULD be fast again - but I got another problem (maybe this was already before and I only didn't notice): the remote operates well only with a lot of force applied; the firmer I press, the faster the post moves; kind of "analog". I am not that strong for this kind of function
    Shouldn't the remote operate as a kind of "digital" on/off switch?

    I'm a bit pissed.
    nope, thats perfectly normal.

  63. #463
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    Quote Originally Posted by attaboy
    About 2 weeks ago I finally received my new Reverb. I give props to SRAM for giving me a full replacement (resetting: mine lost all fluid at the post versus having problem with remote and hydraulics of remote system)-- looks to be with the new hose. What I don't like is that it took almost a month. I'm hearing a creaking noise coming from the saddle as I did on my previous Reverb. I thought on 1st that maybe I didn't tighten the saddle clamp bolts enough. I know I have this time and I'm wondering if that sound is the sound of the reverb innards grinding toward another failure. Anyone else hear creaking on their Reverb, especially under high torque going uphill???
    I had that issue and it turned out to be the saddle rails creaking where they meet the saddle. I put a drop of chain oil in all four spots where the rails meet the saddle, and there was no more issue.

  64. #464
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    Quote Originally Posted by istvisinet
    Auto parts store have anti-seize compound? Can you provide a product or manufacture name?

    Thanks
    Just walk up to the counter and say, "Hey, I need a bottle of anti-seize compound, please."

    Mine comes in a 6" tall x 2.5" dia grey bottle w/ a metal cap that has a brush in it. I think it's like $9-12...?

    Don't eat this stuff; I think it's lead based.
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  65. #465
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    New question here.

    Quote Originally Posted by b-kul
    nope, thats perfectly normal.
    I cannot believe this.
    Let me clarify the issue:
    Knob turned to full slow: force needed to press remote its full travel is fairly ok, post operates quite ok.
    Knob turned to full fast: force needed to press last 20% of travel is awfully hard, but needed for fast operation of the post, otherwise I get only slow movement.


  66. #466
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    My Reverb just failed after about 3 weeks of riding. It looks like the air seals are dead - seat won't come back up by itself, and I can move the seat up and down through most of it's travel without pushing the remote. RockShox support told me to check the air pressure (s/b 250psi) - it's 0psi. Tried pumping it back up, and it won't hold air.

    Off to the shop for a return - Support says they'll ship a new post as soon as they get the call from the shop - I was a bit nervous about buying a newly designed product like this, but the RS customer service makes up for the headache.

  67. #467
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    Quote Originally Posted by trumpetinc
    My Reverb just failed after about 3 weeks of riding. It looks like the air seals are dead - seat won't come back up by itself, and I can move the seat up and down through most of it's travel without pushing the remote. RockShox support told me to check the air pressure (s/b 250psi) - it's 0psi. Tried pumping it back up, and it won't hold air.

    Off to the shop for a return - Support says they'll ship a new post as soon as they get the call from the shop - I was a bit nervous about buying a newly designed product like this, but the RS customer service makes up for the headache.
    First, thanks for the help with creaking! I'm glad to hear it is most likely the rails/bolts and can be easily remedied.

    Trumpetinc, that is exactly what happened to my first Reverb. Hope yours is turned around quickly. Not sure about my LBS -- they indicated something about how RS would first want to take it apart etc. and then decide about whether to repair or send a new one. I suspect it may have just been a lazy guy at warranty desk, I dunno.

  68. #468
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    Quote Originally Posted by Enrice
    I cannot believe this.
    Let me clarify the issue:
    Knob turned to full slow: force needed to press remote its full travel is fairly ok, post operates quite ok.
    Knob turned to full fast: force needed to press last 20% of travel is awfully hard, but needed for fast operation of the post, otherwise I get only slow movement.

    think about how your brakes work. same principle.

  69. #469
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    Don't get me wrong, this is actually changed behavior - it was ok at first!

  70. #470
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    My remote is not hard to press at the end of travel. Maybe you created positive pressure when you did the syringe bleeding by being overzealous? Also was the speed knob set to full flow when you did the bleeding? If it wasn't, that certainly will be an issue leading to positive pressure. Perhaps simply opening the remote bleed port when on full flow and seeing if some fluid seeps out, then closing it would solve the issue?

  71. #471
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    Just gone for my first ride with the reverb. It seems to work really well, nice and fast.

    However, when I move it up/down I can hear a hiss (sounds like air), I don't think i could hear this when I was playing around with it initially. I can't see anything leaking. It sounds like the hiss is coming from the remote, or the cable close by. Is this normal?

  72. #472
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    Quote Originally Posted by polymathic
    My remote is not hard to press at the end of travel. Maybe you created positive pressure when you did the syringe bleeding by being overzealous? Also was the speed knob set to full flow when you did the bleeding? If it wasn't, that certainly will be an issue leading to positive pressure. Perhaps simply opening the remote bleed port when on full flow and seeing if some fluid seeps out, then closing it would solve the issue?
    Tried that - to no avail. seems to be getting worse. last part of travel no longer possible to push, and post gets slower and slower

  73. #473
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    Quote Originally Posted by FM
    Hey, no worries at all.
    So simple... yet Rockshox says nothing about it on their page? and every web store I see simply shows 30.9 and 31.6, no mention of the MMX compatibly (or not)....WTF Sram?
    For future reference, I think this is all a non-issue. I'm posting this so that others don't waste time on it like I have.

    After reading this discussion, I got all worried that I had the wrong version because the label on my Reverb box said "30.9 380 MMX RT," and I was afraid that I got the MMX version and it wouldn't work. I called SRAM, and the rep there who I spoke to said, Yup, you've got the MMX version, you need to send it your post back and get the right one."

    But then I called Tree Fort (who I'd bought it from, $245 with a price match) and they called SRAM and got a very different story. It turns out that the MMX part of the clamp attachment is just a little elbow attached to the clamp by a torx bolt. If you're not running MMX, you just remove the elbow, simple as that. Now that I actually look at the clamp assembly, that seems obviously correct. Duh. SRAM told Tree Fort that all the Reverbs sold retail are the MMX version, the non-MMX version is only OEM on some bikes.

    A side-note: if you're not sure if your Reverb has the old cable or the new (see above) SRAM can tell you if you call them and provide your serial number. (Unless the SRAM rep I talked to was making that up too, which I doubt.) Mine had the new. I thought that might mean no need for a bleed upon arrival, but no.

    Anyway, now I'm looking forward to getting it installed instead of yapping about it with customer service reps.

  74. #474
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    Well, turns out the RS rep I had on the phone originally gave wrong info. They are now requiring the post back in-house before they send a replacement. That'll teach me to not document every single detail of every call...

    FWIW the LBS had another rider with the same problem. Sounds like maybe RS may have another infant mortality problem (in addition to the chemical reaction in the remote tubing).

    Hopefully I'll have the new post soon - I definitely miss it.

    Quote Originally Posted by attaboy
    Trumpetinc, that is exactly what happened to my first Reverb. Hope yours is turned around quickly. Not sure about my LBS -- they indicated something about how RS would first want to take it apart etc. and then decide about whether to repair or send a new one. I suspect it may have just been a lazy guy at warranty desk, I dunno.

  75. #475
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    4 rides on the reverb. it arrived new with slight play front back (in the exteneded position only) and has increased substantially... 1/8 - 3/16" at least. at this rate...
    Can the collar be tightened? The play is in the center post. Again, only fully exteneded.
    thanks
    EC

  76. #476
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    Quote Originally Posted by Prunetucky
    4 rides on the reverb. it arrived new with slight play front back (in the exteneded position only) and has increased substantially... 1/8 - 3/16" at least. at this rate...
    Can the collar be tightened? The play is in the center post. Again, only fully exteneded.
    thanks
    EC
    Uh Oh. Mine reacted just the same before it died (seal blew). Was seriously considering going to a KS until my friends died on it's first ride. Man, how hard can it be for a big engineering company like SRAM to get this figured out.
    "Do not touch the trim"

  77. #477
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    Quote Originally Posted by trumpetinc
    My Reverb just failed after about 3 weeks of riding. It looks like the air seals are dead - seat won't come back up by itself, and I can move the seat up and down through most of it's travel without pushing the remote. RockShox support told me to check the air pressure (s/b 250psi) - it's 0psi. Tried pumping it back up, and it won't hold air.

    Off to the shop for a return - Support says they'll ship a new post as soon as they get the call from the shop - I was a bit nervous about buying a newly designed product like this, but the RS customer service makes up for the headache.
    Exactly what happened to me.
    "Do not touch the trim"

  78. #478
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    Have you watched the service vid provided by SRAM? If I had seen how involved the service is...
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CBAHc...=youtube_gdata

  79. #479
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    Proper mounting

    Finally got my Nomad c done. This is the way to mount the reverb remote
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails RockShox Reverb Thread-img_0025.jpg  


  80. #480
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    Quote Originally Posted by q2xltrgt
    Finally got my Nomad c done. This is the way to mount the reverb remote
    Looking to do that on my NC. You posted any pic's on the SC section?

    Mark

  81. #481
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    Yep it's on there

  82. #482
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    Quote Originally Posted by q2xltrgt
    Finally got my Nomad c done. This is the way to mount the reverb remote
    What, under the bar like me and twenty other guys on this thread have had theirs mounted for months?
    "Do not touch the trim"

  83. #483
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    Broken Barb...

    I have put my bike in the stand with the Reverb on it, I have been careful to have the hose go down in the slot in the stand head, no problems. Today I was working on my bike and I didn't have it lined up right and it slipped breaking the barb on the post side. LBS is closed, but I assume they can order this piece for me?

    John

  84. #484
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rivet
    What, under the bar like me and twenty other guys on this thread have had theirs mounted for months?
    I think it's the single clamp that they're referring to.

  85. #485
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jisch
    I have put my bike in the stand with the Reverb on it, I have been careful to have the hose go down in the slot in the stand head, no problems. Today I was working on my bike and I didn't have it lined up right and it slipped breaking the barb on the post side. LBS is closed, but I assume they can order this piece for me?

    John
    Hose barb wasn't available sep. when I had mine break on me, but SRAM was quick to get me a full rebuild kit thru the LBS post haste (includes the hose barb, new hose, etc).

    Last I checked, the full rebuild kit wasn't avaialable thru QBP/BTI.

  86. #486
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rivet
    What, under the bar like me and twenty other guys on this thread have had theirs mounted for months?
    No Einstein, using the clamp to hold the brake lever on. It's just a hole lot cleaner than the way i had it on my other nomad.

  87. #487
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    Quote Originally Posted by q2xltrgt
    No Einstein, using the clamp to hold the brake lever on. It's just a hole lot cleaner than the way i had it on my other nomad.
    What am I missing here, it's the matchmaker clamp, that's how it's supposed to go.
    "Do not touch the trim"

  88. #488
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rivet
    What am I missing here, it's the matchmaker clamp, that's how it's supposed to go.

    I've only seen it advertised mounted on top of the bar so I thought I would put it on the bottom. Since no one else on this thread had posted their Rs remote this way I thought it would be appropriate. Plus I'm running 1x9 and without the shifter there it just looks very clean.

    My previous post was a attempt at humor. Allthough I am not a comedian, I like to try to make people laugh.

    I hope this post explains my every intent for you Rivet and I apologize for confusing you.

  89. #489
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    Does the reverb have any play - side to side?
    www.essexhertsmtb.co.uk - Mountain Biking near London in the UK

  90. #490
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    Mine doesn't, yet, so far so good. About 10-12 rides though....Very solid so far, no complaints, needs a little bleed at first to get a fast return.

  91. #491
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    anybody know a place with reverb levers in stock? I broke mine and cant find a replacement anyplace!

  92. #492
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    Quote Originally Posted by OldManBike
    For future reference, I think this is all a non-issue. I'm posting this so that others don't waste time on it like I have.

    After reading this discussion, I got all worried that I had the wrong version because the label on my Reverb box said "30.9 380 MMX RT," and I was afraid that I got the MMX version and it wouldn't work. I called SRAM, and the rep there who I spoke to said, Yup, you've got the MMX version, you need to send it your post back and get the right one."

    But then I called Tree Fort (who I'd bought it from, $245 with a price match) and they called SRAM and got a very different story. It turns out that the MMX part of the clamp attachment is just a little elbow attached to the clamp by a torx bolt. If you're not running MMX, you just remove the elbow, simple as that. Now that I actually look at the clamp assembly, that seems obviously correct. Duh. SRAM told Tree Fort that all the Reverbs sold retail are the MMX version, the non-MMX version is only OEM on some bikes.
    Sorry to say, not correct. The elbows you mention are for attaching the shifters only, they have nothing to do with connecting the reverb remote to your brake levers. The MMX version allows you to integrate newer elixir brake levers to the reverb remote, as well as your shifters too, using the "elbows". The non MMX version allows you to connect your shifters to the reverb remote (again, using the elbows), but will not accept the brake levers. Trust me, I've seen both versions side-by-side, both come with elbows, but only the MMX version integrates with avid brake levers.

    By the way, my reverb was an OEM model (though it came new in a box, labeled "non-mmx"). So it's probably not a common issue, but does exist.

  93. #493
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    Quote Originally Posted by q2xltrgt
    I've only seen it advertised mounted on top of the bar so I thought I would put it on the bottom. Since no one else on this thread had posted their Rs remote this way I thought it would be appropriate. Plus I'm running 1x9 and without the shifter there it just looks very clean.
    FWIW, my, and several others in here are on the left, underneath, without a shifter there. Mine just isn't on a single clamp since my current brake lever isn't compatable with the Matchmaker for the Reverb.

    I'm going to see what I can fab up though. That ought to be far cheaper than a new brake lever.
    Florence Nightingale's Stormtrooper

  94. #494
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    Quote Originally Posted by q2xltrgt
    Finally got my Nomad c done. This is the way to mount the reverb remote
    Looks really nice. I wish I could do that with mine. I have Avid Elixer CR brakes and the lever does not work with the Reverb remote. So I have to have them side by side. Looks a little cluttered, but I'm not complaining.

  95. #495
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    Quote Originally Posted by FM
    Sorry to say, not correct. The elbows you mention are for attaching the shifters only, they have nothing to do with connecting the reverb remote to your brake levers. The MMX version allows you to integrate newer elixir brake levers to the reverb remote, as well as your shifters too, using the "elbows". The non MMX version allows you to connect your shifters to the reverb remote (again, using the elbows), but will not accept the brake levers. Trust me, I've seen both versions side-by-side, both come with elbows, but only the MMX version integrates with avid brake levers.

    By the way, my reverb was an OEM model (though it came new in a box, labeled "non-mmx"). So it's probably not a common issue, but does exist.
    I'm sure you're right about all that, I have no clue what MMX lets you attach the seatpost remote to. I just was making clear for others (in case anyone out there is as dumb as me) that even if you buy the MMX version (which is, according to SRAM, the only non-OEM version sold), you still can mount it independently, without needing to attach it to shifters or brakes or both, and regardless what brand shifters and brakes you have.

  96. #496
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    Hi there, I need a little help, I am seriously considering buying one of this for my 2008 Giant Reign 0. I have gone quickly half the pages of this thread and it is very interesting, but I have limited time, therefore I am forced to appeal to the community knowledge and save me some time.

    I have taken a look at the stock seatpost (Raceface XC deus), and it says 30.9mmx37.9mm. It has a 9mm minimum insertion mark, and after the minimum mark it has 20mm marks (2cm, 4, 6, 8, 10). I typically have on the 4 it mark and normally drop my seat all the way to 10 (this is also the limit on the frame).

    Therefore I know I should buy a 30.9mm diameter, but I dont know which length to buy?? a bit of help, I am kind of confused.

  97. #497
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    Measure your seatpost from top of clamp to saddle rails. If this figure is less that 190mm you can't fit a Reverb without your saddle been higher than it is now.
    If it is longer than 190mm but less than 300mm you need the 380mm length, this will leave you with an extra 80mm for the minimum insertion required. If it's longer than 300mm than you need the 420mm version.
    Please note that your frame may require a longer minimum insertion in which case that trumps what is marked on the seatpost.

  98. #498
    Ride.
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    just ordered my reverb yesterday. 30.9 380. It will make a nice addition to my Pitch.
    Broken & pieced back together (somewhat).

  99. #499
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    So has anyone taken theirs apart to try limiting the travel slightly?

    It looks like my current saddle height is a little low than the max extension would allow if I get a Reverb. It seems logical that a spacer somewhere would easily do the job just like on a fork but it would be nice to know that someone was able to do it successfully.

  100. #500
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    Installed mine today and it works just fine out of the box. It has about the same amount of wiggle compared to my Command post (about 1mm at the tip of the saddle) but I suspect that is the case with all dropper posts. I haven't had a chance to take it out on the trail yet but the ride around the neighborhood confirmed that it is indeed a good feeling product.
    The one thing I do miss about the Specialized post is the preset heights.






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