RockShox Reverb Thread

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  • 05-16-2013
    skyno
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Laterilus View Post
    Yes, this can be fixed. You will want to bleed the post from the fully extended position. First, keep the post filled with air pressure. Remove the saddle and the saddle clamp. You will see the top of the poppet valve. You are going to manually activate it. Carefully push down on the top of the poppet valve with some sort of tool that is approximately the same diameter as the top of the poppet valve that also won't gouge or marr the valve. The post should return to normal height. Always remember to be careful when doing this as the contents are under a lot of pressure. You will also more than likely release some more oil out of the top of the poppet valve when doing this procedure.

    Perfect advice Lat! You're the man - followed your instructions and it worked perfectly - I'm back in business with my Reverb working better than before my wreck + $7 fix - already had the fluid & you can get replacement barb on Amazon
  • 05-17-2013
    Laterilus
    RockShox Reverb Thread
    Glad to help and hear you we're able to fix it. I used to break the remote hose barb all the time. 4 times last year, in fact. I had a new brake/shifter setup that pretty much required me to run my remote on top of my bars. That's where I see this problem the most. Even a minor crash where the ground (or something else) hits the remote anywhere near the barb is going to put too much strain on the threaded section and snap it off, even if you are only hitting the reverb hose. As long as it is a close hit to the barb, chances are it will break. I've never broken a barb while mounting the remote upside down. The hose barb is greatly protected under your brake levers that way.

    Keep in mind this fix when out on the trail. If you accidentally break your hose barb while the saddle is in the down position, you can raise it back up with this method and at least have a fully extended, normal seat post.
  • 05-25-2013
    sthlm
    Just received my Reverb. Looks great but from what I can tell the speed adjuster doesn't slow down the speed. Anyone experienced this and do you think a bleed will do any difference?

    Cheers
  • 05-25-2013
    G64
    Please forgive me if this has been answered in this thread, I have been searching without much success:
    When my 2012 reverb is fully extended, it then drops by 1/2 inch when applying body weight on. I do not know what causes that and how to fix it. I looked at the videos and I do not know if it is a bleed that's required or some other service.

    There is 250 PSI pressure in it, and it comes up quickly. But it just drops by 1/2 inch when pressing down...

    Can anyone help me figure the answer? Many thanks, G
  • 05-27-2013
    Kiwiplague
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by sthlm View Post
    Just received my Reverb. Looks great but from what I can tell the speed adjuster doesn't slow down the speed. Anyone experienced this and do you think a bleed will do any difference?

    Cheers

    Sounds like a bleed is in order. Just follow the instructions on Youtube, it is super easy to do. Reverb remote system bleed - YouTube
    I had to cut the hose on mine from new and it had the same issue, once bled it was fine.
    It may also be worth checking the air pressure as well, as it's not uncommon for the post to be under the 250psi it requires. Mine was at about 190psi out of the box.
  • 06-09-2013
    Mattr
    Did SRAM change the hydro line or remote end barb? All the videos/comments indicate that it is easy to get the hose back over the barb but holy cow...I've spent the last hour weaseling the hose over the barb and can not, for the life of me, get it the last 1/32 to seat against the nut. I've left the bike in the stand and walked away after feeling the urge to throw tools against the wall. Tried a light touch with pliers and ended up mangling the hose, recut and used my hand, no joy...
  • 06-09-2013
    Kiwiplague
    Depends which version of the barb you have. the newer ones are threaded, so should be easier to get on. Although in saying that, it took me a fair bit of swearing and cursing and spilt oil getting the thing to go back on when I shortened my line.
    The video instructions certainly make it look easy to get in, but the reality sometimes appears to be a bit different.
  • 06-09-2013
    Mattr
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Kiwiplague View Post
    Depends which version of the barb you have. the newer ones are threaded, so should be easier to get on. Although in saying that, it took me a fair bit of swearing and cursing and spilt oil getting the thing to go back on when I shortened my line.
    The video instructions certainly make it look easy to get in, but the reality sometimes appears to be a bit different.

    Kiwi, thanks for the reply. I had watched the barbed video and mine 'looked' the same so I was trying to shove it on - I went back and watched the threaded video and tried that method (removing the remote) and it was is easy my 5 year old could have done it. <facepalm>. Sooooo if anyone else has problems, you might try the threaded method. FWIW mine says 2012 on the box....

    No bleed necessary however, which makes me happy.
  • 06-10-2013
    skyno
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Mattr View Post
    Did SRAM change the hydro line or remote end barb? All the videos/comments indicate that it is easy to get the hose back over the barb but holy cow...I've spent the last hour weaseling the hose over the barb and can not, for the life of me, get it the last 1/32 to seat against the nut. I've left the bike in the stand and walked away after feeling the urge to throw tools against the wall. Tried a light touch with pliers and ended up mangling the hose, recut and used my hand, no joy...

    Sounds to me like maybe something is not right; it should just thread on there very easily just like the video - I just held the line pointing straight up and twirled the remote to screw the barb into the line - I've done it a few times and it was pretty straightforward.

    Maybe a wrong or damaged part?, or the line is not cut totally flush? Did it go on very easily until that tiny bit?

    The part that was frustrating for me was when I damaged my line from a crash, I did need to bleed the system and it was a mess - fluid gets all over the place because it leaks from the syringes - in the video, it looks so clean
  • 06-12-2013
    2013megaAM
    Just thought I'd offer some usefull info. If your post is dropping when you sit on it without pressing the button then it's time for a service mine started to do this so sent it to TF TUNED they upgrade a few bit like the 3 gold parts that stop side to side play they put in bigger ones . Anyway got it back and I had to remove the lever from the hose why internal hose frame. Anyway I needed to bleed it again done this by following pinkbike pics . Messed up my post would return so slow after a bleed. I figured out pinkbike said bleed with the lever on full fast mode .WRONG BLEED IN FULL SLOW ONLY .if you bleed it in fast mode the setting when you push the lever does the opisite from what it should so BLEED IN SLOW MODE hope that's usefull . Love my reverb
  • 06-14-2013
    robin_hood
    how often are people bleeding the post?

    I did a full bleed about 2 month ago and it's back to super slow?
  • 06-14-2013
    2013megaAM
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by robin_hood View Post
    how often are people bleeding the post?

    I did a full bleed about 2 month ago and it's back to super slow?

    I had one for a year never had to bleed it . Only had to bleed due to damaged hose . Check the psi at the bottom of the seatpost is should have 250psi . The post can loose air over time so that's the first thing to check
  • 06-14-2013
    vikingboy
    mines been fitted since originally released and still doesnt need a bleed. If it aint broke dont try and fix it when it comes to suspension seatposts!
  • 06-17-2013
    rr
    Sorry if this has been discussed here before, I went back a few pages. I just installed a Reverb and the instructions said do not use grease and use friction paste instead. I skipped the grease but didn't have any friction paste, do I really need to use the stuff?

    I was careful not to over tighten the post clamp but not sure it's tight enough to hold it, the post seems to be working right, think I should torque down on the post clamp some more??
  • 06-17-2013
    2013megaAM
    Nope I've never used and paste or grease . You may on a carbon frame. ? I do my clamp up bit by bit little tweaks then ride it if it move while I'm out rideing I tweak it then again untill it stops moveing . A torx reanch is allways a good idear if you don't have one then follow common sence little tweaks only .
  • 06-17-2013
    VTSession
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by rroeder View Post
    Sorry if this has been discussed here before, I went back a few pages. I just installed a Reverb and the instructions said do not use grease and use friction paste instead. I skipped the grease but didn't have any friction paste, do I really need to use the stuff?

    I was careful not to over tighten the post clamp but not sure it's tight enough to hold it, the post seems to be working right, think I should torque down on the post clamp some more??

    I had some slipping problems with my Reverb. The only fix was friction paste and a bolt on seat post collar (not the quick release kind). You can feel if your clamping the seat post collar too hard. If its too tight you will feel more resistance when you push the seat post down. Tighten it enough that it doesn't inhibit the mechanism.
  • 06-17-2013
    budgie
    Sorry if this has been covered before -- long thread -- but wanted to run a Reverb air pressure issue by the committee. I installed a new (2012, black collar) post & having difficulties getting smooth, fast return after several thorough bleeds from both post and remote end (w/remote set to full slow). I've tried it with the seat collar completely loose, so I don't think it's a collar-binding issue. Here are the symptoms:
    1) Remote lever action is very stiff. I really have to press on it to get it to budge.
    2) Post return is quite slow even w/dial set to full fast. I'd estimate about 2-3 seconds to return to full height. Slower than any other post I've used.
    3) There is a sound of air releasing each time I drop the post. Not a lot, but an audible "psssst."
    4) Checking the air pressure it seems to drop to 150psi after actuating the post. (I've repeatedly pumped it back up to 250psi.)

    I haven't ridden on the damn thing yet, but this doesn't seem normal. Nor does it sound exactly like the air seal failures people have been reporting (where all the air escapes at once) although this seems like the most logical explanation. Anyone care to offer a diagnosis? I'd bring it to the LBS, but the post came with a used bike that I bought (starting to realize why it was "included for free" ... go figure) so I'd rather not bother them if I can figure this out myself.

    Thanks for any comments: they're much appreciated.
  • 06-18-2013
    rr
    Thx for the input, I'm using a bolted collar, no QR. Sounds like I just need to ride it and see if it holds and adj if needed.
  • 06-19-2013
    Laterilus
    RockShox Reverb Thread
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by budgie View Post
    4) Checking the air pressure it seems to drop to 150psi after actuating the post. (I've repeatedly pumped it back up to 250psi.)


    Pretty sure you have an air leak. 150 is pretty low when checking after pumping up to 250. I think I usually get 180-220 or something around there after checking but never as low as 150. This is probably contributing to your other issues.
  • 06-20-2013
    Rockland
    When you drop your Reverb post it does need to displace some volume of air in the seat tube ( Look at the bottom of your post. There are 3 small holes to allow the air displaced by the post shaft to escape. ) Depending on your frame's seat tube construction you may have very small, or none at all, vent hole at the bottom. Air escaping around the post clamp can hiss.
  • 06-20-2013
    2013megaAM
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Rockland View Post
    When you drop your Reverb post it does need to displace some volume of air in the seat tube ( Look at the bottom of your post. There are 3 small holes to allow the air displaced by the post shaft to escape. ) Depending on your frame's seat tube construction you may have very small, or none at all, vent hole at the bottom. Air escaping around the post clamp can hiss.

    this is true on my old frame you could hear the hiss from the stem .
  • 06-21-2013
    cammas
    I have done a quick flick through most of this thread in the last couple of days looking if anyone has changed the lower tube on their reverb. As I have an almost new 31.6 from my last bike and the new bike is a 30.9 and was wondering if anyone has done this as I have seen the the lower outer's on EBay for around $50.

    If anyone has done it and if I can get away with just buying the lower tube only, or do I cut my losses and sell this one and just buy a 30.9.

    Any info would helpful my main concern is the brass keys but I did some googling and read of one guy who did it and the keys were fine but wondering if anyone else can verify this.
  • 06-21-2013
    stunzeed
    Broke the button on my reverb, cant find instructions on how to replace it. I bought the new button kit

    any help appreciated
  • 06-21-2013
    brent701
    Question about hose routing... I looked back and did a search in this thread didn't find any info...
    I have a 2013 Trek Rumblefish. I just installed a 125mm drop Reverb and I am having a hell of a time tying to find a way to get the hose to not hit the back tire when the seat is down.. I have it routed through the factory holds under the frame and above the shock.
    Here are some pics. with the factory routing and my end result, hoping it won't hurt the line
    Pic of it factory routed and full down. suspension max up travel.


    Pic of it down and max down travel.


    Pic of the end result on getting it away from the tire..
    Will this work? no damage to the line from the bends? any ideas?
  • 06-23-2013
    2013megaAM
    Looks fine.infact I have the same problem and I'm going to copy yours . I don't see any other way round it . Will be ok like that
  • 06-23-2013
    brent701
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by 2013megaAM View Post
    Looks fine.infact I have the same problem and I'm going to copy yours . I don't see any other way round it . Will be ok like that

    tested it out today. Worked perfectly. No problems can't feel the line hit your legs at all and it's no where near the rear tire or suspension. good luck
  • 06-23-2013
    rottenronny
    2 Attachment(s)
    It looks to me like you have too much cable. I think you might need to trim it so that in the fully extended position the cable has a nice curve to the securing point on the frame.
  • 06-24-2013
    Laterilus
    I think your hose routing is fine. It is the same that I use, but I also use the little Rockshox hose guide thing that came with the seatpost. You could use it right where you have that ziptie holding the hose to your seat tube. It's nice because it routs the hose away from your rear tire, it goes straight down so it doesn't get hung up in your leg and it won't kink the hose.





  • 06-24-2013
    bapski
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Laterilus View Post
    I think your hose routing is fine. It is the same that I use, but I also use the little Rockshox hose guide thing that came with the seatpost. You could use it right where you have that ziptie holding the hose to your seat tube. It's nice because it routs the hose away from your rear tire, it goes straight down so it doesn't get hung up in your leg and it won't kink the hose.



    this is how i have mine setup on my Rumblefish and works perfectly!!
  • 06-26-2013
    2013megaAM
    Hi I've had my reverb for over a year it's also been serviced by TF 6 weeks ago now . My seat post has just started to return slower and slower . I've checked the psi it's fine no air leeks nothing . I've also bled it 3 times and its 100% air free . I know the reverb very well bleeding it checking it I'm at a head scratcher as to why it is now returning slowly ?? Any ideas ?
  • 06-26-2013
    2013megaAM
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by 2013megaAM View Post
    Hi I've had my reverb for over a year it's also been serviced by TF 6 weeks ago now . My seat post has just started to return slower and slower . I've checked the psi it's fine no air leeks nothing . I've also bled it 3 times and its 100% air free . I know the reverb very well bleeding it checking it I'm at a head scratcher as to why it is now returning slowly ?? Any ideas ?

    NOW SOLVED . If you have this problem turn the lever to full slow then press the lever with your seat post up you should see the lever stays in . Now push more oil in and you will see the lever pop back out . Job done. After turn to full fast and your seat post will return like a ejector seat really fast . So remember bleed in full slow not fast . The system takes more oil in slow mode so if you bleed in fast and finish in fast then you won't have enough oil in the lever . Hope that makes sence
  • 06-27-2013
    c3024446
    I'm thinking about getting a Reverb, but want to confirm something first. I store my bikes at home like this, with a bar under the seat (works well) can you do this with a Reverb?

  • 06-27-2013
    Isildur
    Yep, won't be a problem to store them like that!
  • 06-27-2013
    Mr.Quint
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by c3024446 View Post
    I'm thinking about getting a Reverb, but want to confirm something first. I store my bikes at home like this, with a bar under the seat (works well) can you do this with a Reverb?

    As long as the seat is extended it should be fine. If you go to a bike demo, almost all the bikes are stored like this, droppers or no.

    Someone else is going to tell you not to do it, but if the post is fully extended, you're not putting pressure on any of the delicate internal bits.
  • 06-28-2013
    fasteddyb
    RockShox Reverb Thread
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by skyno View Post
    Perfect advice Lat! You're the man - followed your instructions and it worked perfectly - I'm back in business with my Reverb working better than before my wreck + $7 fix - already had the fluid & you can get replacement barb on Amazon

    Hey,

    I've got this issue as well with a 2012 reverb, but can't release the post via this valve... I was wondering what kind of tool you used?

    Thanks
  • 06-28-2013
    skyno
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by fasteddyb View Post
    Hey,

    I've got this issue as well with a 2012 reverb, but can't release the post via this valve... I was wondering what kind of tool you used?

    Thanks

    I did this a few weeks ago so I don't even remember exactly what tool I used - I think I just grabbed something I had handy - I want to say it was just the flat end of an Allen wrench. I do remember that you have to put a pretty good amount of pressure to push it in - in my case, no oil came out at all, the seat just extended as I pushed in the valve - good luck
  • 06-28-2013
    fasteddyb
    RockShox Reverb Thread
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by skyno View Post
    I did this a few weeks ago so I don't even remember exactly what tool I used - I think I just grabbed something I had handy - I want to say it was just the flat end of an Allen wrench. I do remember that you have to put a pretty good amount of pressure to push it in - in my case, no oil came out at all, the seat just extended as I pushed in the valve - good luck

    Tried this a couple of things... But can't get to work atm.... Will try when I get home...
  • 06-29-2013
    rr
    So I installed my Reverb a week or so ago, I had to shorten the line and did a quick bleed of the remote, it was working fine after the bleed. Unfortunately I had a shifter issue and couldn't ride the bike so I hung it up till I got a replacement. I went to install the shifter today and noticed the post would not lower at all, wouldn't budge. Thought maybe some air was still in the system so I tried bleeding the remote several times, no go. Even tried doing a full bleed at the post, still would not work. I took it off and did notice a little fluid at the top of the post below the saddle clamp. Any ideas?, my shop says it's probably a bad bleed but why did it work before I hung it up?? I'm pretty sure there's no air in the system.
  • 07-01-2013
    2013megaAM
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by rroeder View Post
    So I installed my Reverb a week or so ago, I had to shorten the line and did a quick bleed of the remote, it was working fine after the bleed. Unfortunately I had a shifter issue and couldn't ride the bike so I hung it up till I got a replacement. I went to install the shifter today and noticed the post would not lower at all, wouldn't budge. Thought maybe some air was still in the system so I tried bleeding the remote several times, no go. Even tried doing a full bleed at the post, still would not work. I took it off and did notice a little fluid at the top of the post below the saddle clamp. Any ideas?, my shop says it's probably a bad bleed but why did it work before I hung it up?? I'm pretty sure there's no air in the system.

    I have had this before because I followed pinkbike on how to do a bleed and they said bleed it with the remote in full fast mode . Wrong always bleed it in slow mode . So when you get to the last part of the bleed make sure the remote is in full slow and give it one last pump of oil . That's it then turn it to full fast before pushing the seat down . So to recap when doing the final bleed of the remote finish in slow mode with one pull and then push of oil . If you finish in fast mode you end up with a gap of oil in the remote so when you push on the seat post in fast mode the oil can not move hence post don't go down . So give it ago it worked for me .good luck
  • 07-01-2013
    2013megaAM
    Sorry it leaves no gap in the oil for it to move . Think about it when it's in slow mode the remote needs more oil . If you have done this wrong you will see when the remote is in slow mode that the lever button does not fully return but it will if you turn it to full fast . Sorry it's confusing I know but I'm sure this is your problem and if you bleed the remote finish in slow mode I'm sure this will fix it
  • 07-01-2013
    rr
    Thx but I did do that, bleed it with dial backed all the way out to full slow. Shop says bad bleed or hose not installed on remote properly. I followed the video's to a tee, the thing worked fine afterwards? Maybe air is getting into the system at the remote but there is zero fluid leak, there was a little fluid at the top of the post under the saddle clamp when I took it off the bike. Regardless it's going to the shop, hopefully this isn't a sign of things to come.
  • 07-01-2013
    2013megaAM
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by rroeder View Post
    Thx but I did do that, bleed it with dial backed all the way out to full slow. Shop says bad bleed or hose not installed on remote properly. I followed the video's to a tee, the thing worked fine afterwards? Maybe air is getting into the system at the remote but there is zero fluid leak, there was a little fluid at the top of the post under the saddle clamp when I took it off the bike. Regardless it's going to the shop, hopefully this isn't a sign of things to come.

    I had to cut my hose and it does not fit back on the remote very well infact the hose just turns round and round but I've had no problems with air getting in atall . I think yes you had done all the right things so must be something inside like it could be one of the 3 gold bushings that has moved making the post stick. To be honest sounds like bad luck I've had mine over a year with no problems . I needed to send it off to TF for a service when the post started to drop a inch when on the seat . But with the service I got upgraded gold bushings that are bigger than the standard ones that makes the side to side play Evan less and a upgrade to the remote barb . Hope the shop get it sorted for you
  • 07-15-2013
    bpnic
    Hi Guys-

    2011 Reverb, silver collar

    Original problem: Sheared hose barb at seat. Replaced barb.

    Issues:

    -Post was just bled by me successfully (as in the few times over the years as well) Not sure position of rebound adjuster during bleed, so I will re-bleed with it in slow position.

    -With all air removed from air chamber, post extends to full 5"
    As I put air into the Schrader valve, the inner shaft sucks down. When I get the chamber full at 250psi, the post has sucked down into a vacuum with 2" of spongy travel available. Pressing the lever does not change the position of the post. It stays sucked down about 50-70%, until I release air from the chamber.

    I had it quickly apart at the bottom to swap the lowest o-ring, but it didn't help.

    Any ideas? No warranty, and I'm desperate. I've resorted to using a Kronolog as a temporary replacment...

    Thx!
  • 07-15-2013
    2013megaAM
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by bpnic View Post
    Hi Guys-

    2011 Reverb, silver collar

    Original problem: Sheared hose barb at seat. Replaced barb.

    Issues:

    -Post was just bled by me successfully (as in the few times over the years as well) Not sure position of rebound adjuster during bleed, so I will re-bleed with it in slow position.

    -With all air removed from air chamber, post extends to full 5"
    As I put air into the Schrader valve, the inner shaft sucks down. When I get the chamber full at 250psi, the post has sucked down into a vacuum with 2" of spongy travel available. Pressing the lever does not change the position of the post. It stays sucked down about 50-70%, until I release air from the chamber.

    I had it quickly apart at the bottom to swap the lowest o-ring, but it didn't help.

    Any ideas? No warranty, and I'm desperate. I've resorted to using a Kronolog as a temporary replacment...

    Thx!

    It sounds like you have air and oil mixed together inside the post . I don't know how you fix this but this is what was wrong with mine and TF tuned told me this . 97 full service at TF includes upgraded parts to . Hope that helps
  • 07-16-2013
    N0Mad
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by 2013megaAM View Post
    It sounds like you have air and oil mixed together inside the post . I don't know how you fix this but this is what was wrong with mine and TF tuned told me this . 97 full service at TF includes upgraded parts to . Hope that helps

    Exactly, air trapped inside the oil volume in the post itself (not in the remote line). I had the same problem, solved it w/o full rebuild, but I can't recommend this approach (described it here - RockShox Reverb Thread - Page 58). Better to do full rebuild in this case.
  • 07-16-2013
    2013megaAM
    Started to have troubles with mine . The remote is sucking in air somehow .? When I go out the post is fast after one ride I get back and it's slow and that's on full fast mode. So I bleed the remote and air comes out then all is good . Then after one ride it does it again ? I've put a tinny bit of sealant around the remote hose but still I get the same thing . I'm haveing to bleed the remote after each ride now . I've also done a full bleed just in case it was trapped air in the line . I'm a little stumped as to what to try now any clues ? Cheers
  • 07-16-2013
    eurospek
    Someone please tell me what's happening with my Reverb today. It was an hour long trip to the trail head and the bike was on the hitch rack for the duration in direct sun all the way, temps today were above 90 F. I unload the bike and usually travel with the Reverb slammed, never extended, but today it worked itself all the way to the extended position. You would proceed to drop it down, it would stay for a second or two, and then slowly started creeping up to the fully extended position by itself. When you put weight on it, it didn't lock down, it simply was returning to the slammed position.

    Took it out of the frame and noticed wet spots/sweating of oil right under the Schrader valve. Also my seat tube was looking more oily than greasy. So I hooked up a pump to it and released all the pressure. Pumped it back up to 250 psi but it wasn't locking at all, just kept on creeping to the top from the slammed position. I repeated this process about 4-5 times and started riding. It was almost working but it would creep back down a millimeter or two from the extended position. So I again released all the pressure once or twice and pumped it back up to 250. It was sorta better but not wishing to stand there in the heat and get bitten by mosquitoes, I proceeded on the trail.

    During the ride, there were times where it would creep back down again a few millimeters but it wasn't constant. I would drop it down fully, extend it fully, and it would stay put until the next time I would fully drop it down. Sometimes it wouldn't stay put.

    After the 3 hour ride, I would say it stayed put in place and fully locked in the extended position, as I would press the remote when it was "fully" extended and it didn't move up.

    Question is what was the cause of all this? Did the oil during transport simply get too hot and built up too much pressure in the line? Hence the sweating spots? Do I have air in the line now too? Should I re-bleed it?

    Lastly, if the fluid did get hot during transport, what's the best remedy for the future? Should I be releasing all pressure from the post when traveling and filling it back up before I start riding?
  • 07-17-2013
    2013megaAM
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    Someone please tell me what's happening with my Reverb today. It was an hour long trip to the trail head and the bike was on the hitch rack for the duration in direct sun all the way, temps today were above 90 F. I unload the bike and usually travel with the Reverb slammed, never extended, but today it worked itself all the way to the extended position. You would proceed to drop it down, it would stay for a second or two, and then slowly started creeping up to the fully extended position by itself. When you put weight on it, it didn't lock down, it simply was returning to the slammed position.

    Took it out of the frame and noticed wet spots/sweating of oil right under the Schrader valve. Also my seat tube was looking more oily than greasy. So I hooked up a pump to it and released all the pressure. Pumped it back up to 250 psi but it wasn't locking at all, just kept on creeping to the top from the slammed position. I repeated this process about 4-5 times and started riding. It was almost working but it would creep back down a millimeter or two from the extended position. So I again released all the pressure once or twice and pumped it back up to 250. It was sorta better but not wishing to stand there in the heat and get bitten by mosquitoes, I proceeded on the trail.

    During the ride, there were times where it would creep back down again a few millimeters but it wasn't constant. I would drop it down fully, extend it fully, and it would stay put until the next time I would fully drop it down. Sometimes it wouldn't stay put.

    After the 3 hour ride, I would say it stayed put in place and fully locked in the extended position, as I would press the remote when it was "fully" extended and it didn't move up.

    Question is what was the cause of all this? Did the oil during transport simply get too hot and built up too much pressure in the line? Hence the sweating spots? Do I have air in the line now too? Should I re-bleed it?

    Lastly, if the fluid did get hot during transport, what's the best remedy for the future? Should I be releasing all pressure from the post when traveling and filling it back up before I start riding?

    yes you should bleed it . Yes it could have been the heat I all way try to keep my bike in the shade when not in use mainly because I run tubeless tires . How old is your post ?
  • 07-17-2013
    eurospek
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by 2013megaAM View Post
    yes you should bleed it . Yes it could have been the heat I all way try to keep my bike in the shade when not in use mainly because I run tubeless tires . How old is your post ?

    Well the bikes are stored in the garage when not in use. My post is a 2012 Reverb, used last season, and it's been fully rebuilt by SRAM this spring, only 2 months of riding since the rebuild.
  • 07-17-2013
    eurospek
    I think I'm going to hold off on the re-bleed. Just spoke with SRAM over the phone and the tech said the built up pressure would be normal in hot weather like this especially if the remote was set to fast rebound like I have it set to. He did recommend setting the remote to slow rebound which would stop the post from creeping up from the built up pressure, yet it would still return like it would on the fast setting because of the built up pressure. I'm going to keep an eye on this and update if anything changes.