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  1. #101
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    Quote Originally Posted by highaltitude
    Thanks a lot, this was easy and obvious really. This is what the insides look like:
    Crap, what are the chances of being able to source that replacement plunger? There is obviously a strong reason RS has an illustration not to place the bike upside down in case it rests on the plunger but that just further reinforces concerns over the remotes weakness in the event of a crash

    I need to def mount the remote on the bottom somehow....

    Good luck with getting your post back in service High.

  2. #102
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tuff Gong
    I need to def mount the remote on the bottom somehow....
    Agreed. Unclekittykillers pics are giving me hope. For the number of times I use the front derailleur, I think I'm willing to dremel off half of the shift lever if it means tucking the remote underneath.

    Of course, this is all assuming I can guarantee getting a right hand remote when I order the post. Has anyone received a left hand remote or is it coming only with the RH?

  3. #103
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    i actually ordered a lh remote from my lbs and i got the rh version. seems like most are getting the rh. car nut, I hardly use my fd as well, only on real steep climbs, otherwise i stand up and mash. my lh shifter isn't exactly where i like it anymore, but i'll use the reverb remote more than the fd anyhow, so a little bit of shifter displacement doesn't bother me when i have the remote right where it like it.

    i would imagine that placing the remote under the bars would be even easier if used in conjunction with some avid xx or xo brakes using the remote as the lever clamp (upside down). i would think it would leave more room on the bars to place the shifters wherever you like.
    Last edited by unclekittykiller; 11-09-2010 at 01:37 PM.

  4. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by highaltitude
    Thanks a lot, this was easy and obvious really. This is what the insides look like:
    any idea what the purpose of that thing that looks like a staple is? i noticed it on my remote but couldn't figure out it's purpose. i can only imagine it holds something together, but what?
    Last edited by unclekittykiller; 11-09-2010 at 01:59 PM.

  5. #105
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    Quote Originally Posted by unclekittykiller
    any idea what the purpose of that thing that looks like a staple is? i noticed it my remote but couldn't figure out it's purpose. i can only imagine it holds something together, but what?
    I'd guess it secures the remote body side of the rubber boot You could see the indent it left on the boot....if I'm even close to being correct.

    edit:Wait a minute? Does it keep the plunger from coming completely out of the body? Does it secure both the plunger and the boot to the body?


    Well, I just tried working the RH remote on the left side with my X7 shifter and Juicy 7 levers. I'm not too crazy about the shifters position but if I grind away the corner of the downshift lever, I could swing the shifter closer down to normal.

    I'll have a couple of rides before I attempt to grind away...


  6. #106
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    Quote Originally Posted by mountaindavis
    are you folks running this shock using friction paste? If so, did it come with it?
    The friction paste is not included with the Reverb.

    I'm using carbon installation compound. I suspect the necessity of the paste is directly related to how snug the post to seat tube fit is on your bike.

    I did not originally use the paste and did not encounter any slippage when clamped well under the max torque. The paste just allows me the option of using a bit less torque.

    This is the stuff I sourced:
    http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...n+Compoun.aspx

  7. #107
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tuff Gong
    I'd guess it secures the remote body side of the rubber boot You could see the indent it left on the boot....if I'm even close to being correct.

    edit:Wait a minute? Does it keep the plunger from coming completely out of the body? Does it secure both the plunger and the boot to the body?


    Well, I just tried working the RH remote on the left side with my X7 shifter and Juicy 7 levers. I'm not too crazy about the shifters position but if I grind away the corner of the downshift lever, I could swing the shifter closer down to normal.

    I'll have a couple of rides before I attempt to grind away...
    your guess about the staple sounds pretty logical, i wouldn't doubt if thats correct.

    your shifter looks to be almost too uncomfortable tweaked that much..do you think it would work better if you put the shifter to the left of the brake lever and angled the remote more forward?

  8. #108
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tuff Gong
    Crap, what are the chances of being able to source that replacement plunger?
    Here - http://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...s.php?id=37132

  9. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by highaltitude
    Thanks a lot, this was easy and obvious really. This is what the insides look like:
    highaltitude;

    tough luck...

    Let us know what path you took (contact vendor, contact Rockshox) to get the new part...

    Here's a list of the part numbers (sourced from Spare Parts List on Rockshox website) http://www.sram.com/en/service/rocks...D=3&subcatID=1

    Part numbers for the remote start on page 6, I believe the XLoc actuator is detailed on page 28; piece #18 (p/n 11.4315.014.020).
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails RockShox Reverb Thread-capture3.jpg  

    Last edited by MarkHL; 11-10-2010 at 11:20 AM.

  10. #110
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tuff Gong
    Crap, what are the chances of being able to source that replacement plunger?
    I found this as a source for replacement parts for the lever, check pic 7. I was debating whether to replace the whole thing for $65 or just the piston kit for $31. After I managed to remove the broken piston head, I just went for the cheaper option.

    http://www.outsideoutfitters.com/p-1...kit-parts.aspx

    I didn't see much point in contacting Sram, and I bought the post from overseas - and there's zero chance the local importer will have spares.

    Quote Originally Posted by Tuff Gong
    I'd guess it secures the remote body side of the rubber boot You could see the indent it left on the boot....if I'm even close to being correct.

    edit:Wait a minute? Does it keep the plunger from coming completely out of the body? Does it secure both the plunger and the boot to the body?
    The little staple locks the hard plastic end of the rubber boot in place, there are little indents, I also seem to have cracked this part. When the lever is extended, the piston head must butt up against the plastic end of the boot.

  11. #111
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    XLoc Piston Source

    Quote Originally Posted by highaltitude
    I found this as a source for replacement parts for the lever, check pic 7.


    http://www.outsideoutfitters.com/p-1...kit-parts.aspx

    The silver piece (circled in red) seems a bit different from the parts you took apart, however since the piston is all you need, you should be set. Thanks for the information.

    Here's an addtional source: http://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...s.php?id=37132
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    Last edited by MarkHL; 11-09-2010 at 04:25 PM.

  12. #112
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    Quote Originally Posted by highrustler
    Just received this from SRAM tech support. This will be on their website within a week or so
    Official Reverb Bleed instructions are up.

    http://www.sram.com/en/service/rocks...D=3&subcatID=1
    It's not where it's made but how it's made.

  13. #113
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    Quote Originally Posted by MarkHL
    The silver piece (circled in red) seems a bit different from the parts you took apart, however since the piston is all you need, you should be set. Thanks for the information.

    Here's an addtional source: http://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...s.php?id=37132
    Good point, I hadn't noticed that part. It looks like a spacer, so hopefully it will be easy to remove by taking off the button and the boot.

  14. #114
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    You might need to check that part on Universals website as a viable replacement. The part number doesn't match the Reverb part number. All the pics I've seen of the X-Loc remote for the forks look like a shorter throw than the Reverb. Maybe the silver bushing is just a travel limiter.

    Hmmmm.

  15. #115
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    Looking at the SRAM's instructions for bleeding, it shows clamping the bike in a stand using the lower part of the seatpost (not the part that extends up) which is good as I was concerned how I was going to clamp my bike once my seatpost arrives (tomorrow! Although we are getting snow right now :-( ). I thought I read in this post that we couldn't clamp it at all, but they clearly show it is alright to do so...

  16. #116
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    To add to the thread.... My Reverb wasn't working out of the box. Didn't lower or rise. First, I bled it at the remote with one syringe. Finally it went down, but not up. Stuck a second syringe in the seatpost bleed hole and went from syringe to syringe. Now the Reverb works perfectly. Lots of bubbles in there prevented from working at all. Very smooth action now. Thanks all for sharing your experience here. If it wasn't for this thread, I'd have returned the seatpost thinking it was defective.

  17. #117
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    I am trying to see if I can run a RH remote on the left side of my bars, with a front shifter (xtr), possibly by mounting it well inboard of the shifter. Could someone currently running a Reverb post the distance from the handlebar to the outside of the remote body. Aka. how much free space needed perpendicular to the bar to clear the remote? That would be awesome. Thanks!

  18. #118
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    Does anybody know how the sram 2011 x0 brake attaches to the reverb lever?

  19. #119
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    Quote Originally Posted by toons101
    Does anybody know how the sram 2011 x0 brake attaches to the reverb lever?
    you can use the reverb remote in place of the lever clamp.

  20. #120
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    Quote Originally Posted by Huck Pitueee
    Thanks.I'm gonna call them this morning.

    Check out Tree Fort Bikes. They are running a sale until 11-19 for $235 and free shipping I just ordered mine. Plenty in stock. Get in there and get one for cheap

    380mm:
    http://www.treefortbikes.com/product...djustable.html

    420mm:
    http://www.treefortbikes.com/product...djustable.html

  21. #121
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    got my reverb today. first impression is dissapointing.

    It is binding half way through the travel and not coming all the way up. hopefully it will break in and be more smooth. I also plan to bleed it.

    play in the seat is a hair more than my 6 month old kindshock. not enough to detect while riding and certainly lots less than the joplin.

    by far my biggest gripe is that using the right remote underbars on the left bar really doesnt work very well, even with no shifter on that side. Im using XT brakes mounted inboard for 1 finger braking and the lever is too close to the grips (interferes and bangs your thumb) if mounted outside the brakes and waaay too far away if mounted inside the brakes. maybe it works better if you have the angled MC of the avids...... (but no way im switching to those crappy brakes)

    syringes, hydro fluid and some of the cable snaps are nice bonuses. (cable snaps only work if you have another cable to clip it to though)

  22. #122
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    Evan, once you bleed it the action will smooth and perfect. It wasn't even working in my case until a serious bleed. It does have more play than I'd wish, though. That's the only issue I have so far. But it's very small play....

  23. #123
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    Concern about full extention length

    So a fully extended reverb may be about 1/4 to 1/2 in too long for me. Is this a major concern? Has any one else had this problem?

  24. #124
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    Quote Originally Posted by Evan55
    It is binding half way through the travel and not coming all the way up.
    That is a classic symptom of the seatpost collar being too snug. Try to loosen it up by just a hair at at time until you get it to work smoothly. If you need to loosen it so much that the post ends up slipping on rides, well... that's SRAM's bad for making the outer wall so thin on the Reverb.

  25. #125
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    Quote Originally Posted by hani1
    So a fully extended reverb may be about 1/4 to 1/2 in too long for me. Is this a major concern? Has any one else had this problem?
    Probably a good thing; with the post fully extended, the telescoping section will not have as much support from the tube and is more vulnerable to damage due external forces placed on it.

    My personal opinion is that prolonged riding with it fully extended will hasten wear on the tight tolerances due to the additional leverage and reduced support between the mating surfaces.
    My reason for this line of thinking is, I can feel a slight fore and aft play in the seat tube with it fully extended that I cannot detect in any other inserted range.

    After a bit of practice, adjusting the post to your preferred "top" height will be no harder than any other seat height adjustment.

  26. #126
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    Quote Originally Posted by MarkHL
    Probably a good thing; with the post fully extended, the telescoping section will not have as much support from the tube and is more vulnerable to damage due external forces placed on it.

    My personal opinion is that prolonged riding with it fully extended will hasten wear on the tight tolerances due to the additional leverage and reduced support between the mating surfaces.
    My reason for this line of thinking is, I can feel a slight fore and aft play in the seat tube with it fully extended that I cannot detect in any other inserted range.

    After a bit of practice, adjusting the post to your preferred "top" height will be no harder than any other seat height adjustment.
    Mark, I've been thinking along those lines, too. But it is annoying to have to find that right height. It's hard to get an accurate position to 3/4 of an inch, especially when riding on bumpy trails. First I had it set up so it never was fully extended, but then it was getting on my nerves.....

  27. #127
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    Has anyone been brave enough to dis-assemble their post yet?

    Would it be possible to add a spacer to the internals to restrict the upward travel (similar to the spacers in Reba for example)? If so, that would be an awesome way to restrict it to that last 1/2 - 1/4 inch...

  28. #128
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    Quote Originally Posted by Isildur
    Would it be possible to add a spacer to the internals to restrict the upward travel (similar to the spacers in Reba for example)? If so, that would be an awesome way to restrict it to that last 1/2 - 1/4 inch...
    wondering if this would be something that Push may be able to offer since they apparently will be doing mods on the Reverb...

  29. #129
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    Hmmm, I would be interested to hear the results of this, as I'm one of the people who will need something like this offered. I would prefer to not have to worry about max seat height, and just have the max extension the correct height right away...

  30. #130
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    My buddy is running my old i900 post on his Specialized with an interupted seat tube design. He can't put the post down into the frame far enough to avoid this problem so he installed a cable tether to the post to stop it at only 3.5" instead of the full 5". Seems to be working so far. Might be a solution for you as well.

  31. #131
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    Hey guys, coming from my Joplin(no issues btw great post!) does this post really keep a certain position no matter what? For example, my joplin, if it was lowered, would rise up if you pulled on the seat. Will the Reverb do the same thing? Is it soooo much better that i have to have it?

  32. #132
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    Once properly bled, the Reverb definitely stays in place. (At least mine.)

  33. #133
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    You can yank it up if you lift the bike too quickly but it sucks back down to it's original position. The great thing is that it doesn't need to cycled to reset the air from the oil.

  34. #134
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    Quote Originally Posted by BMJ
    You can yank it up if you lift the bike too quickly but it sucks back down to it's original position. The great thing is that it doesn't need to cycled to reset the air from the oil.
    Mine only did that when there was air in the line. I suspect yours still has air in it, and that's what's causing this. After a good 2 syringe bleed, there is no up or down motion at all on mine.

  35. #135
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    Someone PM'd me with the same problem I had, the flimsy lever snapped in a crash. Here's how to get the xloc lever apart:

    1) Undo the clamp bolt and remove xloc lever from bars (but leave the hydro line attached)
    2) Underneath the lever is a steel staple. Gently lever this out with a flat blade screwdriver. The remains of piston assembly (piston/boot/button) will now pull out of the lever body, but if you snapped the piston head off like I did, it will still be stuck inside.
    3) Take a bleed syringe and fill with a little fluid, attach to the bleed valve on the xloc. Hold the lever wrapped in a rag in one hand, and apply some pressure on the syringe with the other hand. The broken piston head should pop out.

    My replacement piston is still in the mail, I'll post on replacing it when the thing arrives.

  36. #136
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    well, unfortunately bleeding mine at the lever didnt work. it doesnt come up or go down.

    I need to try using the 2 syringe bleed procedure. Is it just pushing fluid from 1 syringe to the other?

  37. #137
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    Evan, when I did a single syringe I had the same issue; the post stopped working completely. I hooked a syringe on each end with some fluid in them, and basically did the back and forth from syringe to syringe. There was a lot of air left in there. Finally when no a bubble remained, I was set. Don't forget to use the directions, where you are supposed to press on the lever, the push the syringes in (and repeat many times). Good luck.

  38. #138
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    need HELP with bleeding my Reverb

    I am having a hell of a time gettting my Reverb set up. I have tried bleeding this thing forever now. It seems like the fluid isnt even going in. should the saringe empty out? If so, it definately isnt. I cant even get the post to go down at all. I depress the remote and put tons of pressure down on the seat and nothing. I am getting very aggrivated. I have a big ride in the morning and really want to get this working. how do you do this two saringe bleed there is talk of?

  39. #139
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    dubinjs, did you read the instructions that came with the Reverb? Or what was written here in this thread? The bleeding has more to do with air bubble removal that injecting more fluids. I knew nothing about bleeding a seatpost or anything, but from reading this thread and the manual I had no issues.

  40. #140
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    Yes. Thats why I cant figure out why its not working. All the air seems to be out and there is zero movement in the post at all. I followed the instructions that came with it to the T. I just disconnected the line from the seat end and pumped fluid through from the remote end and it was full of fluid. absolutely no air. I then reconected it and bled whatever may have gottten into the line from that. Still, Zero movement in the post.

  41. #141
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    Are you also pumping the lever between bleeds?

  42. #142
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    Yes. I finally got it. Thanks to one of the other post that stated where the other bleed hole was on the stem. I used the two syringes and there must if been trapped air in the post itself that wasn't showing itself before. All is good and finished. Thanks! Looking forward to tryin it out in the morning.

  43. #143
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    Quote Originally Posted by dubinjs
    Yes. I finally got it. Thanks to one of the other post that stated where the other bleed hole was on the stem. I used the two syringes and there must if been trapped air in the post itself that wasn't showing itself before. All is good and finished. Thanks! Looking forward to tryin it out in the morning.


    Some people's kids!

  44. #144
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    What's that supposed to mean?

  45. #145
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    Wow, can't believe how many people have to bleed theirs. Mine worked perfect right out of the box and after shortening the line twice without re-bleeding it still worked perfect?
    "Do not touch the trim"

  46. #146
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    Quote Originally Posted by q2xltrgt
    Some people's kids!
    I think that's supposed to mean you hadn't read the thread carefully, and you weren't using the two syringe method, and that based on your posts that's not the impression you gave, and as a result time was spent trying to help you when in fact you needed to read.

    Anyhow, glad to hear you figured it out and it's working fine now! Enjoy!

  47. #147
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    Quote Originally Posted by polymathic
    I think that's supposed to mean you hadn't read the thread carefully, and you weren't using the two syringe method, and that based on your posts that's not the impression you gave, and as a result time was spent trying to help you when in fact you needed to read.

    Anyhow, glad to hear you figured it out and it's working fine now! Enjoy!

    Precisely. That could not have been written better.

    Thanks Polymathic.

  48. #148
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    Mine worked good out of the box, but I bled the remote and doubled the speed to the point I ended up turning the adjuster to slow it down. Love my post. Does have a bit of play, but I don't notice when riding.

  49. #149
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    sorry if I inconvenienced any of you. I was reading through the post and followed the incomplete directions that Rockshox prints and sends with the seat. There are a lot of post about this item, but only a couple that actually stated how to use the two syringe method and i found only one that stated where the second screw was. Thanks for the help.
    This is how i ended up securing the line without any interference at all. Works great
    !,
    http://lh5.ggpht.com/_NM8dyLzbMug/TO...-48-49_522.jpg

  50. #150
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    Quote Originally Posted by highaltitude
    Someone PM'd me with the same problem I had, the flimsy lever snapped in a crash. Here's how to get the xloc lever apart:

    1) Undo the clamp bolt and remove xloc lever from bars (but leave the hydro line attached)
    2) Underneath the lever is a steel staple. Gently lever this out with a flat blade screwdriver. The remains of piston assembly (piston/boot/button) will now pull out of the lever body, but if you snapped the piston head off like I did, it will still be stuck inside.
    3) Take a bleed syringe and fill with a little fluid, attach to the bleed valve on the xloc. Hold the lever wrapped in a rag in one hand, and apply some pressure on the syringe with the other hand. The broken piston head should pop out.

    My replacement piston is still in the mail, I'll post on replacing it when the thing arrives.
    highaltitude I fell off yesterday and snapped the lever off (also broke a finger!)!

    Let me know how you get on.


    Reverb
    Last edited by Jamie_MTB; 11-23-2010 at 12:30 AM.

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