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  1. #201
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    Man, I got the wrong part as well... damn... as a stopgap I was able to crazy glue my broken piston back into the lever body and it has performed perfectly for the past month or so.

  2. #202
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    Araldite

    Since my new part failed, I also tried gluing the broken one back together. But it doesn't hold a seal. After bleeding the post will cycle 2 or 3 times, but air must be geting in behind the piston. Maybe when i snapped the piston i damaged the lever body. This is getting really expensive...

  3. #203
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    So, the correct SRAM part number for the piston assembly is 11.6815.016.020 ... I've contacted Universal Cycles who said they should be able to get the correct part from SRAM.... we'll see.

  4. #204
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    Peeps,

    I've joined the herd! Got myself a 30.9 x 380mm from North Shore this morning.
    Installed it then noticed the slow action. Read this thread, found out about single syringe
    bleeding, did it to a T, then WHAM!!!!

    The thing is like a freakin' hydraulic chair! So smooth and precise. No wobbles or anything.
    And the matchmaker fits perfect with my XO shifter.

    One of the best things I've ever purchased.
    "It's the driver, not the car..."

  5. #205
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    Quote Originally Posted by tma
    Peeps,

    I've joined the herd! Got myself a 30.9 x 380mm from North Shore this morning.
    Installed it then noticed the slow action. Read this thread, found out about single syringe
    bleeding, did it to a T, then WHAM!!!!

    The thing is like a freakin' hydraulic chair! So smooth and precise. No wobbles or anything.
    And the matchmaker fits perfect with my XO shifter.

    One of the best things I've ever purchased.
    Awesome. Glad you got it sorted and that the thread helped at least one person out with their new Reverb. Sounds like you're really enjoying it. I wish I could be riding mine more, I planned to have a mid-term review by now, but waiting on a warranty replacement for a broken frame currently. I've just been cruisin around on my hardtail. Hopefully I can get back on my main bike soon and do some more testing of the Reverb.
    Gotta get up to get down.
    LMB

  6. #206
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    Quote Originally Posted by highaltitude
    After 5 weeks i finally got a huge box containing the tiny replacement piston, which is a generic xloc spare part that i posted earlier. Unfortunately, it's a totally different design, and is not compatible with the Reverb's xloc lever. The original Reverb piston is shorter, and has a different head design, and a single o-ring. I trried installing it anyway and got a couple of cycles out of the post before it stopped working again. Fluid leaks past the new piston, and it extends way too far. The silver washer bit could probably prevent this, but it would not fit into the piston bore.

    I guess I'll have to go to the importer for a replacement part.
    A friend just rebuilt mine using the same part. You need to swap the o-rings (reverb has two lips) and removed that silver bit.

    TBH its feels better than ever and faster! Thereís no signs of oil leaking out.

  7. #207
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    Much better

    I just received mine yesterday which had front to back and side to side play. Never even sat on it. Sent it back for a replacement. Just wondering if there is a weight limit? thanks Rich[/QUOTE]

    The replacement has no play, very nice. Had to add fluid to the remote like everybody else. Works great now. Thanks for the tips. Rich

  8. #208
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    kinda surprised at all the people having trouble bleeding. fill the remote syringe 3/4 and empty the post syringe. then just push the oil back and forth a bunch. also helps to gently push oil with the remote syringe when you are screwing the post screw back in. then push the remote in, press the syringe, over and over. that simple.

  9. #209
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    broken xloc plunger

    I took on nice header on a fast downhill and broke my xloc remote lever for the reverb. It was mounted on the right in the on top of the bar position. I don't like the fact that the remote lever protrudes above the bar in such a vulnerable position. It is also a a PITA to flip the bike over to work on with the lever in the way. I think it would be better to mount the remote in the under bar position. I assume I need a left-sided xloc to mount it under the bar on the right? Anyone sorted out this issue?

  10. #210
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    Quote Originally Posted by sawbonz
    I took on nice header on a fast downhill and broke my xloc remote lever for the reverb. It was mounted on the right in the on top of the bar position. I don't like the fact that the remote lever protrudes above the bar in such a vulnerable position. It is also a a PITA to flip the bike over to work on with the lever in the way. I think it would be better to mount the remote in the under bar position. I assume I need a left-sided xloc to mount it under the bar on the right? Anyone sorted out this issue?
    There are several posts in this thread of people running the right side lever under the bars on the left, even pictures. Read up.
    Gotta get up to get down.
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  11. #211
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    Quote Originally Posted by BaeckerX1
    There are several posts in this thread of people running the right side lever under the bars on the left, even pictures. Read up.
    Read up? Did you read what he typed? Baecker said, "I assume I need a left-sided xloc to mount it under the bar on the right?"

    By the way the button is angled, you would need a left-handed remote to work correctly under the bar on the right.
    Last edited by nixgame22; 12-27-2010 at 12:11 PM.
    Maintain internal heights.

  12. #212
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    Quote Originally Posted by nixgame22
    Read up? Did you read what he typed? Baecker said, "I assume I need a left-sided xloc to mount it under the bar on the right?"

    By the way the button is angled, you would need a left-handed remote to work correctly on the under the bar on the right.
    Yes, that's correct. But judging by the fact that you run a right-handed remote under the bars on the left, wouldn't the logical assumption be that you'd need a left-handed remote to run under the bars on the right? I guess I sometimes forget that you need to be blatantly obvious on the internet. I thought that was a given looking at the orientation of the remote on the bars. The procedure would be exactly the same, only mirrored, so I still believe the pictures and the previous posts on the topic to be relevant, including the mods that some people had to do to make it work.
    Gotta get up to get down.
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  13. #213
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    Could someone please measure their Reverb from bottom of the topcap (silver piece) to seat rails?? Im thinking of putting one on my next bike but need to know if it will fit.
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  14. #214
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    The info is all in the first post:

    Install lengths:
    I measured about 7 1/4" from bottom of fitting to bottom of seat rails, about 7 1/2" to top of seat rails.
    Bottom of silver fitting to the seat rails is 190 mm when post is fully extended. (scottg)
    You need a minimum of 195mm of exposed post (from the enter of the saddle rails to the top of the seat tube/collar) to run a Reverb. (tscheezy)

    80mm Minimum Insertion Length or about 3.15 inches (Reverb Manual)
    I'm about 5mm - 10mm short on mine, but I'm gonna end up getting one and then working it out. I'm thinking that there will surely be a way to add a spacer (similar to RS forks) to limit the travel. I certainly hope so anyway

  15. #215
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    Quote Originally Posted by Isildur
    The info is all in the first post:



    I'm about 5mm - 10mm short on mine, but I'm gonna end up getting one and then working it out. I'm thinking that there will surely be a way to add a spacer (similar to RS forks) to limit the travel. I certainly hope so anyway
    Thank you I was just going through this thread again and just saw that - DOH!! Im a MORON, thanks!
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  16. #216
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    haha No Worries. I'm sure I've done that a few times (OK, well maybe more than a few) over the years Enjoy your Reverb!

  17. #217
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guy.Ford
    Could someone please measure their Reverb from bottom of the topcap (silver piece) to seat rails?? Im thinking of putting one on my next bike but need to know if it will fit.
    if the full travel is too much couldnt you just run it a little lower in the travel?

  18. #218
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    Quote Originally Posted by b-kul
    if the full travel is too much couldnt you just run it a little lower in the travel?
    yes that works for me as my setup is only 5-10mm too long. i can see it being a real pain though if your post is 1-2 inches too long or more as you would basically need to hover over your seat and stop the post with your butt before full extension each time. if you were to let the post return to full extension without stopping it, you'd have a hard time getting your butt back on the seat as it would be too high, especially if you're clipped in and can't "hop" back up onto the seat to lower it a bit.
    I've been curious about what mods Push will be offering for the Reverb, and if a reducing spacer could be offered, I'm sure it would be a popular mod as it seems many people have been asking about this.

  19. #219
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    Quote Originally Posted by b-kul
    if the full travel is too much couldnt you just run it a little lower in the travel?

    Very true, though that would seem pointless to me, then I would just buy a dif post, or I could buy a smaller frame.

    Im currently considering a Firebird in either a 19 or 21, Im 6'4" so either would work but need to be sure if the post will fit either frame which may have helped me decide between either size. Seems it would work so no worries, now if only I could decide on frame size!!!
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  20. #220
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    If there was some way of reducing the travel I'd order one today, but 125mm make it too long for my, I'm cursed with short legs....

  21. #221
    Jai
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    I think you can limit the travel externally, it wouldn't be the most elegant solution however...let's say I would only do this if I had an adjustable seatpost and I wasn't able to return it and buy the right one.

    You basically need to copy this idea, an small strap (or cord,...) attaching the seat rails or head post to the frame or lower part of seatpost so the travel will be only as long as the strap is.


  22. #222
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    Reverb lifts up

    Anyone else have trouble with the RS Reverb not being fully locked from lifting upward? When I first got mine, it was totally stuck. After I bled it, it worked very well, and IIRC, would not rise if you lifted up on the saddle. Now it does behave this way. SRAM says this is normal, and there is a note in the manual about this possibility, but I seem to recall that it did not originally do this. I may try another bleed. Is anyone else observing this spring-up behavior or lack thereof?
    Last edited by AvalonTrails; 12-29-2010 at 12:28 PM.

  23. #223
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    Guys

    Loads of info here the post looks like something I may be interested in. However pardon the ignorance I have not had one of these in hand and the measurement I am interested in is from the absolute bottom of the 380 to the bottom of the silver collar. I am trying to determine if I can get the full length into my Mojo, hey I have short legs so I may need to bottom it out to use this effectively.

    Thanks!

  24. #224
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    my wife has hers fully insterted into her mojo

    as like to fuilly instert mine into her mojo

  25. #225
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    Good job! A word of thanks...

    Just wanted to say thanks to BaekerX1 and everyone else on this Reverb thread, super useful info. Much appreciated.

    I've been holding off on the Reverb for a little bit but Santa hooked one up. With the info here I think I can get it dialed without too much trouble.

    Will post a report and pics shortly. Happy and Healthy 2011 people. Already planning for a years worth of epics.
    - -benja- -

  26. #226
    tma
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    Guys,

    Here's a couple of shots of my reverb and the routing I've made for the Giant Reign 2.


    UP





    DOWN





    Routing




    Remote (the matchmaker is really useful with the XO)




    Bike Shot




    "It's the driver, not the car..."

  27. #227
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    Quote Originally Posted by AvalonTrails
    Anyone else have trouble with the RS Reverb not being fully locked from lifting upward? When I first got mine, it was totally stuck. After I bled it, it worked very well, and IIRC, would not rise if you lifted up on the saddle. Now it does behave this way. SRAM says this is normal, and there is a note in the manual about this possibility, but I seem to recall that it did not originally do this. I may try another bleed. Is anyone else observing this spring-up behavior or lack thereof?
    I tried another bleed last night. It was not helpful in stopping the spring-up behavior.

    I am lookiing for others observations...

  28. #228
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    Mine will also move if you lift with enough force... I don't see this as an issue however.

  29. #229
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    Right, I'm on the verge of ordering a Reverb but just want to make sure at full extension it's not going to be too long.....
    With my current post I'm at about 195mm from seat post clamp to the bottom of the seat rails which is as high as I can go and be comfortable....



    Could someone please do the same measurement with a Reverb fully inserted and extended and post a pic, cheers.

  30. #230
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    Look at post #214, 1/3rd of the way down this page.

  31. #231
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    I was hoping someone could post a pic similar to mine so I can so for a myself, not that I don't believe post #214 i'd just like to see it in a pic when spending all that money.

  32. #232
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    Neil, I just measured mine. It's about 187mm. It will definitely work for you.

    I was in the same boat, and my Reverb is all the way down to the collar. Then two days ago I bought a new saddle (WTB Rocket V SLT) which is higher than my old one. Now it's a tad too long fully extended.

  33. #233
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guy.Ford
    Very true, though that would seem pointless to me, then I would just buy a dif post, or I could buy a smaller frame.

    Im currently considering a Firebird in either a 19 or 21, Im 6'4" so either would work but need to be sure if the post will fit either frame which may have helped me decide between either size. Seems it would work so no worries, now if only I could decide on frame size!!!
    yeah, after reading ukk's post i see why that would be an issue. by how much travel is it too long by? because i have it set where my "ideal" trail height is like a .8 of full extension, ideal climbing height is like .95 and i even have a bit more for that little extra "umph" to get up those brutal hills. just something to consider if its not too long by much.

  34. #234
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    Quote Originally Posted by polymathic
    Neil, I just measured mine. It's about 187mm. It will definitely work for you.

    I was in the same boat, and my Reverb is all the way down to the collar. Then two days ago I bought a new saddle (WTB Rocket V SLT) which is higher than my old one. Now it's a tad too long fully extended.
    Cheers mate, I'll get one ordered asap!

  35. #235
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    Just ordered one for $245 new 30.9 380mm on ebay. Seller had 1 more.

    Any stumpy fsr owners running one and have a good hose routing idea. Since we don't have cables on TT, is it long enough to run on downtube?
    Last edited by larlev; 01-02-2011 at 11:55 AM.
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  36. #236
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    Hi,
    Been keeping my eye on this thread as I have been waiting for the Reverb to become available in the UK. I have now just purchased one from the guys at my local trail centre (oneplanetadventure) and can't wait to fit it to my carbon nomad .

  37. #237
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    Quote Originally Posted by nixgame22
    Read up? Did you read what he typed? Baecker said, "I assume I need a left-sided xloc to mount it under the bar on the right?"

    By the way the button is angled, you would need a left-handed remote to work correctly under the bar on the right.
    I found a solution for those who have broken the plunger on the remote: From what I can gather, there is not a replacement plunger available yet from SRAM. Instead of fixing the remote, I used an xloc remote the belongs to a XX Rockshox fork. The remote for the fork works differently from the Reverb remote in that it requires a second push to unlock the plunger once pushed in. However, It does work very nicely to actuate the seatpost. I will replace the plunger on the Reverb remote once one is available. In the mean time I am back in action.

    BTW, I mounted my remote under the bar similar to nixgame22 and it works reasonably well. There is less interference with my XO shifter and Avid brakes in the most inboard position instead of out near the grip. I still think that the remote should be redesigned to work specifically under the bar where it is better protected.

  38. #238
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    Got mine yesterday. Set up today and with a quick bleed, functioning perfectly. Now I will see if these things will really hold up to pacific northwest winter riding.

    Got it set upside down on l side of bar inside my shifter, just have to reach a little, not too cumbersome but install is clean.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails RockShox Reverb Thread-img_3392.jpg  

    RockShox Reverb Thread-img_3394.jpg  

    RockShox Reverb Thread-img_3395.jpg  

    Last edited by q2xltrgt; 01-05-2011 at 06:05 PM.

  39. #239
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    I installed my Reverb today. This thing is awesome. Like a lot of other here, mine did not work out of the box. It took my entire 6' 175 lbs. frame to compress the post and then had to hold the button in a solid 2 minutes for it to fully extend. Thanks to all here for posting such good info. It made shortening the hose and bleeding a breeze. Works like a champ now. I could see how someone who did not know about this thread could get very upset after installing it and it not working. I hope Rock Shox plans to include instructions on bleeding in the box in the future. It would save them a lot of customer service calls.

  40. #240
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    argh, i really want one of these but i only have 180mm of post showing. Someone please engineer a solution!

  41. #241
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    Here's how I routed my cable. Mine worked perfectly out of the box. If the cable was a tad longer it would have been perfect.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails RockShox Reverb Thread-shock-3-.jpg  

    RockShox Reverb Thread-shock-4-.jpg  

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  42. #242
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    Oh man. My Reverb had gotten pretty slow here in the cold so I went ahead and topped it off again today. I did it with it dialed all the way to slow, capped it off, and then turned it to fast. I had it pretty good before, but OMG is it fast now on the fastest setting. Almost too fast. It pretty much jumps right up. I might have to turn it slower a few clicks. I don't want to get punched in the nads.

    I did this by just topping it off at the lever. Just thought I'd let people know that you can get it REALLY fast easily if you want to. With a good fill it releases and lowers a lot easier too.
    Last edited by BaeckerX1; 01-08-2011 at 09:04 PM.
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  43. #243
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    Reverb problems

    I've had my Reverb for a couple of months now. I rebled it when it was new and worked flawlessly but only lasted for a few weeks. Getting the post down was pretty difficult and needed a lot of force, extension was too slow as well. Then I rebled it again and it started to work perfectly again, but now after a few weeks action is too slow once again. Any suggestions? By the way, when I did the second bleed, I had a hard time getting it to work right. Finally I had to turn the knob into full slow like I always do, but also pull the plunger out completely as turning the knob into slow pulls it in, then do the bleed. Then it worked good. One thing I'm wondering is why the actuation changes after a few weeks. I don't see any leaks in the line which can cause this.

  44. #244
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    That does not seem normal, john85d. You could have a very slow leak causing this. Anyhow, if this were happening to my Reverb ever couple of weeks, I'd send it back or contact SRAM.

  45. #245
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    Here are a few pics of how I stopped cable rub on Reverb using velcro...it's cheap and works perfect. Nice and neat. I cut a little smaller than a width of standard electrical tape, so it would wrap without overlap. It's the industrial stuff from Walmart..located in craft section
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails RockShox Reverb Thread-cable.jpg  

    RockShox Reverb Thread-cablevelcro.jpg  

    RockShox Reverb Thread-cablevelcro2.jpg  

    Go Solar...

  46. #246
    BMJ
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    Quote Originally Posted by john85D
    I've had my Reverb for a couple of months now. I rebled it when it was new and worked flawlessly but only lasted for a few weeks. Getting the post down was pretty difficult and needed a lot of force, extension was too slow as well. Then I rebled it again and it started to work perfectly again, but now after a few weeks action is too slow once again. Any suggestions? By the way, when I did the second bleed, I had a hard time getting it to work right. Finally I had to turn the knob into full slow like I always do, but also pull the plunger out completely as turning the knob into slow pulls it in, then do the bleed. Then it worked good. One thing I'm wondering is why the actuation changes after a few weeks. I don't see any leaks in the line which can cause this.
    I've noticed this with mine as well. Kinda odd. I'll bleed it and have it running super fast and after a few weeks it's slowing down again. No leaks can be found and outside of this, everything is working great.

    My only thought on this, outside of an internal leak, is housing expansion. It appears that it takes very little fluid change to effect the speed at which the remote activates the post. If this is so, a very long hydrolic hose experiencing expansion issues could be the problem. Be it, hot to cold impact, or pressure from the constant activation of the post, hard to say. One would hope that like replacing a deriallier cable and stretching it out, it will finally settle down. Problem with this concept is that unlike a brakeline, it's not braided, so it could potentially keep expanding. Also, it's possible that the hydrolic brake lines experience this as well but the open resevior system compensates for it and you never notice it.

    Hmmmmmmmmmm?

  47. #247
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    Quote Originally Posted by BMJ
    I've noticed this with mine as well. Kinda odd. I'll bleed it and have it running super fast and after a few weeks it's slowing down again. No leaks can be found and outside of this, everything is working great.

    My only thought on this, outside of an internal leak, is housing expansion. It appears that it takes very little fluid change to effect the speed at which the remote activates the post. If this is so, a very long hydrolic hose experiencing expansion issues could be the problem. Be it, hot to cold impact, or pressure from the constant activation of the post, hard to say. One would hope that like replacing a deriallier cable and stretching it out, it will finally settle down. Problem with this concept is that unlike a brakeline, it's not braided, so it could potentially keep expanding. Also, it's possible that the hydrolic brake lines experience this as well but the open resevior system compensates for it and you never notice it.

    Hmmmmmmmmmm?
    Last week when it was cold and rainy, the temperature had the same effect on mine. Very sluggish until I added more fluid to the remote, then very fast. Now, a week later it has slowed a tiny bit. Works great, although mine has developed a slight fore/aft play. I don't see this as a problem unless more play develops.

  48. #248
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    Quote Originally Posted by larlev
    Here are a few pics of how I stopped cable rub on Reverb using velcro...it's cheap and works perfect. Nice and neat. I cut a little smaller than a width of standard electrical tape, so it would wrap without overlap. It's the industrial stuff from Walmart..located in craft section
    That's a pretty clever fix. Do you think the velcro will pick dirt and become sandpaper though?

  49. #249
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    Quote Originally Posted by car_nut
    That's a pretty clever fix. Do you think the velcro will pick dirt and become sandpaper though?
    Hmmm....good question. I wash my bike after every ride...can you tell? HaHa, so I doubt it would be a problem. If it does I'll just replace it. Took all of 3 minutes to do.
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  50. #250
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    Quote Originally Posted by BMJ
    I've noticed this with mine as well. Kinda odd. I'll bleed it and have it running super fast and after a few weeks it's slowing down again. No leaks can be found and outside of this, everything is working great.

    My only thought on this, outside of an internal leak, is housing expansion. It appears that it takes very little fluid change to effect the speed at which the remote activates the post. If this is so, a very long hydrolic hose experiencing expansion issues could be the problem. Be it, hot to cold impact, or pressure from the constant activation of the post, hard to say. One would hope that like replacing a deriallier cable and stretching it out, it will finally settle down. Problem with this concept is that unlike a brakeline, it's not braided, so it could potentially keep expanding. Also, it's possible that the hydrolic brake lines experience this as well but the open resevior system compensates for it and you never notice it.

    Hmmmmmmmmmm?
    Hmm.....you have a point here. I wonder why RS didn't just go with brake hoses. That would give us better options if we decide to change the hose in the future. Anyway, I'll just do another bleed and check for leaks again....

  51. #251
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    First month

    Love Reverb so far. Mine worked out of the box and is even faster now that I shortened the hose and did bleed. Tips on here are very helpful --e.g., I switched the RH remote to LH under bar. Using it more each ride and learning how much I was missing out on not ever lowering my seat post previously.

  52. #252
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    Remote question

    Hey guys, remote questions:
    I already have X9 shifters and Elixer brakes, sharing the same mount via matchmakers. So, can I add the reverb and have all three on the same single clamp?

    Along the same lines... I am running 1x9 but have the matchmaker clamps (so no front shifter). Can I run the reverb remote "upside down" on the left side, as part of the matchmaker assembly of my elixer lever?

    Thanks

  53. #253
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    Quote Originally Posted by FM
    Hey guys, remote questions:
    I already have X9 shifters and Elixer brakes, sharing the same mount via matchmakers. So, can I add the reverb and have all three on the same single clamp?

    Along the same lines... I am running 1x9 but have the matchmaker clamps (so no front shifter). Can I run the reverb remote "upside down" on the left side, as part of the matchmaker assembly of my elixer lever?

    Thanks
    According to SRAM you can run all 3 with the right matchmaker (think it's the Matchmaker X). Not sure about the upside down on the matchmaker, but it doubt it's designed that way.


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  54. #254
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    Quote Originally Posted by BaeckerX1
    According to SRAM you can run all 3 with the right matchmaker (think it's the Matchmaker X). Not sure about the upside down on the matchmaker, but it doubt it's designed that way.
    Thanks for the info. Yeah, the difference/compatibility between the original matchmaker design and the new XX stuff has me confused. Is anybody running the reverb matchmaker'd up to older non-XX elixir brakes?
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  55. #255
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    Quote Originally Posted by MoustacheCashStash
    Thanks for the info. Yeah, the difference/compatibility between the original matchmaker design and the new XX stuff has me confused. Is anybody running the reverb matchmaker'd up to older non-XX elixir brakes?
    Pretty sure the Reverb is only compatible with the Matchmaker X. SRAM doesn't really have a lot of detailed info on it. It looks like the original matchmaker was only designed for PushLoc and not X-Loc hydraulic remotes which is what the Reverb remote is essentially designed after (for practical purposes you can consider them the same thing). If you go by SRAM's website those brakes aren't compatible with the X type clamp so they won't work.

    Simple answer: If your brake will work with the Matchmaker X clamp you can run all 3 on it.

    The ones that are Matchmaker X compatible have the U clamp style like this:

    not the 2 bolt style like this:
    Last edited by BaeckerX1; 01-11-2011 at 04:31 PM.
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  56. #256
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    Just curious, has anything been mentioned about a wireless remote solenoid switch, instead of cabling hydraulic/wired

    I know it's something that is being tried with shifters but it seems a lot more of a logical place to start introducing electronic gear into mountain biking, if only from a simplicity point of view

  57. #257
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    wpuk

    Pull that off and it would be very cool, great idea. Not so much for cable pull type posts like the KS but perhaps with hydraulic as not much pressure would be needed to actuate. Call in the engineers

  58. #258
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    It looks like when using the matchmaker set up that the plunger would be positioned above the bar--is there a way to use that set up and still have it under so it won't break?

  59. #259
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    Quote Originally Posted by mountaindavis
    It looks like when using the matchmaker set up that the plunger would be positioned above the bar--is there a way to use that set up and still have it under so it won't break?
    sure, but you would have to learn how to brake with your palms. let us know how it works out.

    no, you cannot use the matchmaker and still run the plunger on the bottom.
    nothing witty here...

  60. #260
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2w4s
    no, you cannot use the matchmaker and still run the plunger on the bottom.
    Hey thanks for the info 2w4s. Would running 1x9 change that? (thinking, no shifter on the left side, so maybe that frees up space for the remote...)

  61. #261
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    you can run the remote on the bottom, you just can't do it with the matchmaker. I have mine on the bottom and I'm running a 2x9.

    nothing witty here...

  62. #262
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    Not too found of cutting shifter lever...damn
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  63. #263
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    No good

    I finished mounting mine up last night. Complete Busch league hacking. I'm running older X7's without the matchmaker and had to remove about half of the downshift lever and the tip of the upshift.

    Overall, I'm none too impressed with the ergonomics and packaging of the remote. Reaching the button with it top mounted brought back memories of grade school thumb wrestling. It also looked like it would last about a week before getting torn off. Putting it on the bottom required mutilating the shifter and positioning it too far over to reach(the shifter). Luckily I use the FD about once a month so don't mind, but I give it an overall two thumbs down.

  64. #264
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    Hmmm...I don't find mine in the way right side up. It's not like it's gets used like a shifter.
    I thought I read somewhere you can specify right or left mount...could be wrong
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  65. #265
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    Quote Originally Posted by FM
    Hey thanks for the info 2w4s. Would running 1x9 change that? (thinking, no shifter on the left side, so maybe that frees up space for the remote...)

    That is exactly what I'm a gonna do to my new Nomad C 1x9 with XO brakes and bolt the lever to the brake. In my mind it will be perfect, we shall see if theory meets practice.

  66. #266
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    Quote Originally Posted by larlev
    Hmmm...I don't find mine in the way right side up. It's not like it's gets used like a shifter.
    I thought I read somewhere you can specify right or left mount...could be wrong
    I don't find it in the way when top mounted, I find it out of the way. It just felt awkward to wrap my thumb up to the top side of the bar to hit it. I know I'm nitpicking here, but it seems like ergonomics where just forgotten. I think it feels great bottom mounted but it doesn't fit without hacking up the shifter.

    The PN sticker on my Reverb called out which side the remote was spec'd for, so I assume it is possible to order a left/right specific unit. I just haven't seen any online retailers offer that as an option yet.

  67. #267
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    Quote Originally Posted by car_nut
    I don't find it in the way when top mounted, I find it out of the way. It just felt awkward to wrap my thumb up to the top side of the bar to hit it. I know I'm nitpicking here, but it seems like ergonomics where just forgotten. I think it feels great bottom mounted but it doesn't fit without hacking up the shifter.

    The PN sticker on my Reverb called out which side the remote was spec'd for, so I assume it is possible to order a left/right specific unit. I just haven't seen any online retailers offer that as an option yet.

    Check out my post # 42. I mounted the RH mount on the LH bottom inboard the shifter. It's a slight stretch with your thumb but works pretty good.

  68. #268
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    IMO, if the remote is mounted on the right, it should be parallel to the ground, or slightly downward. Seems easier to activate, but more importantly it keeps the little piston lever that tends to break in a safer location. I've take a couple of tumbles this week, and the remote is OK though the remote body did take a hit--but if my remote were pointed up, the piston would have taken the hit and snapped. This way, it's also possible to (gently) put the bike upside down. I would not install the remote the way it's pictures in this post: RockShox Reverb Thread

  69. #269
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    Any tips/tricks for trimming the Reverb hose?

    Hi gang,

    I'm going to trim my Reverb's hose tonight, then bleed. I set it up a little bit a go, ran it on "Fast" and it was usable, but I need to trim the line a bit, so I figure I'll do both.

    I've got nice sharp Felco snippers and from what I've read all I need to do is slice a bit of the hose at the remote, cut off what I don't need and push it back onto the barp on the remote.

    Anything I've missed?
    - -benja- -

  70. #270
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    Quote Originally Posted by benja55
    Hi gang,

    I'm going to trim my Reverb's hose tonight, then bleed. I set it up a little bit a go, ran it on "Fast" and it was usable, but I need to trim the line a bit, so I figure I'll do both.

    I've got nice sharp Felco snippers and from what I've read all I need to do is slice a bit of the hose at the remote, cut off what I don't need and push it back onto the barp on the remote.

    Anything I've missed?
    That's all that I did.

    1. set to full slow
    2. small slice at remote's barb
    3. clamped a small set of needle nose vice grips on the hose, near the barb
    4. tapped with hammer until hose came off barb
    5. trimmed with Felcos
    6. opened up hose hole with an awl
    7. pushed hose back onto barb
    8. bled from remote end only, following SRAM's online instructions

    It's worked like a champ ever since.

    -D

  71. #271
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    Quote Originally Posted by polymathic
    IMO, if the remote is mounted on the right, it should be parallel to the ground, or slightly downward. Seems easier to activate, but more importantly it keeps the little piston lever that tends to break in a safer location. I've take a couple of tumbles this week, and the remote is OK though the remote body did take a hit--but if my remote were pointed up, the piston would have taken the hit and snapped. This way, it's also possible to (gently) put the bike upside down. I would not install the remote the way it's pictures in this post: RockShox Reverb Thread
    I agree with you. That picture is from singletrack.com, not my bike, by the way. If you run the matchmaker like they are, there's no choice. I replaces the top half of your brake lever clamp so you have to go with whatever angle your brakes are at.

    There indeed should be less chance of damage in a crash if you run it close to horizontal. It's pretty comfortable for me in that position as well. Good advice.
    Last edited by BaeckerX1; 01-19-2011 at 12:33 PM.
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  72. #272
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    Most MTB frames seem to be designed to work with a 385 mm - 400 mm length seat post, that usually is supplied with the bike. A 385 mm - 400 mm seat post usually gives the rider 11 inches of adjustability, with the capacity for the seat to fully lower, to keep the rider from being tossed off the bike.

    With all these crash stories and levers getting broken off, I would think people would be asking adjusting seat post companies for at least 10 inches of adjustability and the capacity to instantly, fully lower the seat.

    Just a thought.

  73. #273
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    I smell a sales pitch.

  74. #274
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    Quote Originally Posted by RASER
    usually gives the rider 11 inches of adjustability, with the capacity for the seat to fully lower, to keep the rider from being tossed off the bike.

    With all these crash stories and levers getting broken off, I would think people would be asking adjusting seat post companies for at least 10 inches of adjustability and the capacity to instantly, fully lower the seat.

    Just a thought.

    I can follow the more-adjustablity-inches = better argument, but I'm finding that the range of adjustability is more than enough. Not sure what you mean by instantly fully lowering the seat as that is exactly what these do. I don't think you're hearing that people are crashing because of the Reverb, or because of a lack of adjustability or seats not lowering, but rather that when inevitable crashes happen, the remote (sitting on top of the bar) is too susceptible to being snapped. This is remedied by mounting it on the underside of the bar.

  75. #275
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    I would say that the ease of RSReverb adjustability encourages me to use the very maximum height when climbing and cruising. IF I neglect to lower the seat in anticipation of technical terrain, I am more likely to EAT IT than if I had a seat set at a compromise height.

    Ideally, I would like 6" of travel, but the problem is with my frame, that with the RSR set to the proper max height, it can only use 5" of travel anyway, before the bottom half of the RSR is fully bottomed. IF I had a 6" post, I would consider hacking the frame an inch, but it is carbon, so I would rather not.

    Only if you ran a very small frame, or if you had a true DH frame with a super low seat tube, would you be able to use more than 5-6" travel.

  76. #276
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    - Unlike road bike frames, mountain bike frames appear to be generally designed to give the cyclist's seat from 8 to a full 11 inches of lowering ability from a riders highest, most efficient pedaling position. This lowering capacity is designed into the frame by the frame companies to give the rider greater control through challenging terrain.

    Being able to lower the seat only by 5 inches from the riders power height position still leaves 3 to 6 inches for the seat to lower. Most Downhillers and BMXers would say this lower seat height equals greater control,
    to keep from getting bucked off the bike.

    An adjusting seat post is supposed to quickly get the seat down and out of the way to avoid a crash. It just seems to me that with all these levers getting broken from people crashing, that riders should be asking the main seat post companies for a seat post that actually, fully lowers, to keep them from crashing.

    - agree/disagree?

  77. #277
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    Quote Originally Posted by RASER
    - Unlike road bike frames, mountain bike frames appear to be generally designed to give the cyclist's seat from 8 to a full 11 inches of lowering ability from a riders highest, most efficient pedaling position. This lowering capacity is designed into the frame by the frame companies to give the rider greater control through challenging terrain.

    Being able to lower the seat only by 5 inches from the riders power height position still leaves 3 to 6 inches for the seat to lower. Most Downhillers and BMXers would say this lower seat height equals greater control,
    to keep from getting bucked off the bike.

    An adjusting seat post is supposed to quickly get the seat down and out of the way to avoid a crash. It just seems to me that with all these levers getting broken from people crashing, that riders should be asking the main seat post companies for a seat post that actually, fully lowers, to keep them from crashing.

    - agree/disagree?
    Why don't you just come right out and say that you think people should buy your RASE post? All that many levers have not been broken off. People are just looking for ways to minimize the risk. Crashes are not always caused by a high seatpost. The Reverb drops more than enough for me. If you crash with it fully lowered, it's not the seatpost's fault. This thread is specifically to talk about the Reverb, not the RASE. I've got nothing against the RASE post though. I've never used one.

    Just a thought.

    BTW, you forgot your signature RASER.

    - Austin Walsh
    Developer of the RASE Seatpost
    Last edited by BaeckerX1; 01-19-2011 at 09:11 PM.
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  78. #278
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    After a few rides with the post I wish the top out could be set within a range. I guess I'm one of the few who have it installed all the way to the aluminum stopper. I need about a 1/4"- 3/8" lower than it allows to pedal properly. I have to bump it down a little everytime..which is not that big of a deal. The post isn't made for XC riding anyway. It would be cool if we could have a little adjustment on where it fully extends. I can't think of a way to make sure it is at the same spot every time.
    Go Solar...

  79. #279
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    Quote Originally Posted by larlev
    After a few rides with the post I wish the top out could be set within a range. I guess I'm one of the few who have it installed all the way to the aluminum stopper. I need about a 1/4"- 3/8" lower than it allows to pedal properly. I have to bump it down a little everytime..which is not that big of a deal. The post isn't made for XC riding anyway. It would be cool if we could have a little adjustment on where it fully extends. I can't think of a way to make sure it is at the same spot every time.
    Tie a small strap between the saddle and post clamp. DONE...

  80. #280
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    Quote Originally Posted by AvalonTrails
    Tie a small strap between the saddle and post clamp. DONE...
    Even a piece of nylon fishing line will do.... Also, you could get a lower profiled saddle. Fully extended use to be just right for me... until I got a new saddle. Now it's a tad too long. But I do love my new saddle--a light WTB Rocket V SLT I grabbed for $40 on CL.

  81. #281
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    That's pretty clever...didn't think of that. I will try the fishing line and see if it holds. Not sure what it's gonna look like when the seat is down or how it will hang...but I'll see if it works.


    If they had some way of having a dual position setup it would be great. Like a fully extended and one that is 1" shorter. Made possible by something in the post itself. I'm asking for way too much I know. HaHa
    Go Solar...

  82. #282
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    Set mine up on my Mojo and made the mistake thinking the top guide on the post could be used on the silver collar, Mojo has not got a round seat tube and I have no residual seat tube. Well it worked a few times then while testing after shortening the line post stayed in the down position. Come to fine it cracked the barb under the hose. Now to find another barb. Was pumped to try this out this weekend now it does not look like that is going to happen unless I can find one local.

  83. #283
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    Quote Originally Posted by larlev
    That's pretty clever...didn't think of that. I will try the fishing line and see if it holds. Not sure what it's gonna look like when the seat is down or how it will hang...but I'll see if it works.


    If they had some way of having a dual position setup it would be great. Like a fully extended and one that is 1" shorter. Made possible by something in the post itself. I'm asking for way too much I know. HaHa
    Have you talked to any suspension shop yet to see if they could internally limit the post? If it's designed like a fork, you MIGHT be able to put a travel spacer in there.
    Gotta get up to get down.
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  84. #284
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    I just called PUSH...they state nothing can be done...yet.
    It really needs to be figured out. I can't even put one on my wife's FSR...she only has about 6" of post sticking out. I did try the fishing line and it works to a degree. The problem is when you go down and then back up. The line gets twisted and stops it prematurely.
    Last edited by larlev; 01-21-2011 at 12:53 PM.
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  85. #285
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    [QUOTE=RASER
    Being able to lower the seat only by 5 inches from the riders power height position still leaves 3 to 6 inches for the seat to lower. Most Downhillers and BMXers would say this lower seat height equals greater control,
    to keep from getting bucked off the bike.

    [/QUOTE]

    not all the time. in a lot of cases people are having issues with 5 inches of travel being too much. if you uped that even more you are really pigon-holing yourself. if i understand what you are saying.

  86. #286
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    Quote = b-kul
    "not all the time. in a lot of cases people are having issues with 5 inches of travel being too much. if you uped that even more you are really pigon-holing yourself. if i understand what you are saying."


    I agree, people can get fitted to frames that leave them allot or very little clearance.
    Yet, even then, there is no need for anyone to get "pigon-holed".

    I'll follow up in the Adjusting Seatpost thread.

    - Austin Walsh
    Developer of the RASE Seatpost

  87. #287
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    Quote Originally Posted by RASER
    Quote = b-kul
    "not all the time. in a lot of cases people are having issues with 5 inches of travel being too much. if you uped that even more you are really pigon-holing yourself. if i understand what you are saying."


    I agree, people can get fitted to frames that leave them allot or very little clearance.
    Yet, even then, there is no need for anyone to get "pigon-holed".

    I'll follow up in the Adjusting Seatpost thread.

    - Austin Walsh
    Developer of the RASE Seatpost
    i still didnt fully understand what you were saying until i saw who you are and researched your post. now i get what you are saying. kinda. your post has a max return height so even some that only uses 4'' of the post extended is fine but someone who has a reverb with 4 extra inches sticking out could drop it to the collar with your post. (yeah, i explained that bad.) just glancing quickly the rase post seems like a good idea but to me at this stage in the game, with the reverb and hilo and fox's post soon to hit the market, it seems a bit dated. and promoting yourself in a thread dedicated to the reverb- not cool.

  88. #288
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    I just fitted my Reverb after waiting for ages for it to arrive.... First thing I did when setting it up was measure the seat height on my roadie and set it up at that - I figure thats a good start point, then I measured the seat height on my dh bike. Guess what, not quite 5" difference, so no need for more adjustment for me!

  89. #289
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    b-kul,

    I'm a MTB enthusiast first. I am not here promoting the RASE post that I developed at all. I find everyone talking about how much they still crash a bit unsettling and worthy of people asking; how could a product like this do more? What kind of adjusting seatpost configuration would you really prefer? I have stated here two times that I think people should ask their favorite component companies to probably figure out ways to have a fully lowering capacity, to help people stay on their bikes. - Just a thought.

    Cheers

  90. #290
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    Quote Originally Posted by RASER
    b-kul,

    I'm a MTB enthusiast first. I am not here promoting the RASE post that I developed at all. I find everyone talking about how much they still crash a bit unsettling and worthy of people asking; how could a product like this do more? What kind of adjusting seatpost configuration would you really prefer? I have stated here two times that I think people should ask their favorite component companies to probably figure out ways to have a fully lowering capacity, to help people stay on their bikes. - Just a thought.

    Cheers
    yes you are, you're just being sneaky about it. im fairly sure no ones crash has been the direct result of the reverb or any other dropper post. i think the main gripe is how prone the remote is to damage in a crash.

  91. #291
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    Lever replaced by SRAM

    After 3 months and zero rides on my Reverb due to broken lever, I got it fixed up yesterday. SRAM sent a new lever/hose kit which I fitted. Now it works perfectly.

    The lever clamp design has changed a little and is now wider (strange choice given how hard it is to find space for this on the bar), and the hose has been upgraded to a much stiffer plastic reinforced version. The original on my Reverb was a plain hose. The barbs on both ends have changed to be slightly longer. The hose attachment is now much more robust with this new hose.

    Best place to install seemed to be upside down on the left, inboard of my brakes.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails RockShox Reverb Thread-reverb-4.jpg  

    RockShox Reverb Thread-reverb-9.jpg  

    RockShox Reverb Thread-reverb-10.jpg  

    RockShox Reverb Thread-reverb-11.jpg  

    RockShox Reverb Thread-reverb-5.jpg  


  92. #292
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    Name:  reverb.jpg
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    Can somebody please tell me how long this is?
    This is for a 30.9 380mm.

    Thanks in advance!

  93. #293
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    7 3/8"
    Go Solar...

  94. #294
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    This is my 2 week review:

    I have been riding about 40 hours over the last 2 weeks now. The first week was great, it was performing flawlessly after a quick bleed. I really appreciate not just full extension and and the lowest position, but the entire spectrum of height as it can give me perfect height for tech climbs, and a reasonable resting height for extended downhills.

    I'm now at the end of week two and it is noticeably more sluggish in compression and extension. I had to sit on the nose of the saddle for it to compress quickly enough, whereas before I could sit wherever I liked to compress it. Thinking it was maybe a bleed issue, I did a quick remote bleed, which yielded no change in performance.

    I've been keeping it clean, and just tonight applied some float fluid I had lying around to the seal, which immediately sped things up. It's giving me a little bit of concern over the service intervals.

    Anyone else having lubrication issues?
    Last edited by half_man_half_scab; 01-27-2011 at 09:20 PM.

  95. #295
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    Quote Originally Posted by half_man_half_scab
    This is my 2 week review:

    I have been riden about 40 hours over the last 2 weeks now. The first week was great, it was performing flawlessly after a quick bleed. I really appreciate not just full extension and and the lowest position, but the entire spectrum of height as it can give me perfect height for tech climbs, and a reasonable resting height for extended downhills.

    I'm now at the end of week two and it is noticeably more sluggish in compression and extension. I had to sit on the nose of the saddle for it to compress quickly enough, whereas before I could sit wherever I liked to compress it. Thinking it was maybe a bleed issue, I did a quick remote bleed, which yielded no change in performance.

    I've been keeping it clean, and just tonight applied some float fluid I had lying around to the seal, which immediately sped things up. It's giving me a little bit of concern over the service intervals.

    Anyone else having lubrication issues?
    I too have noticed that a little lube goes a long way. I just got some Finish Line stanchion lube, and it is some slick stuff. It does not attract dirt, and it alone made the post about 15% faster up and down.

    Probably the most $ per ML I've ever paid for any liquid, so I use it sparingly.

    -D
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  96. #296
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    Reverb Actuation Speed (video)

    My reverb's actuation speed got slower over a 3 month period, but since I don't run the speed control full open, I could continue to adjust it. Today, I re-bled it again (in about five minutes). I pulled up relatively hard on the syringe to pull some bubbles out of the system and then waited for them to float to the top of the syringe oil level before going through the push the plunger/syringe iteration. I believe pulling the bubbles out first added to the quality of the bleed. I put a bit of Fox Float Fluid on the post about every other ride to keep it smooth.

    -----------------------------------------------
    I have one additional question. Today, I pushed down on the seat post and could feel it drop about 1/4 of a millimeter (0.010"). The only way to detect it is to lock your finger around the post and the insertion tube at the silver nut and push down. I'm guessing it has been there all the time, however I was curious if anyone else can detect a very slight vertical movement when weighting the post once it's locked into position. I'm guessing it's a bit of air in the IFP.
    -----------------------------------------------
    -

    This is the video of the speed of the seat post (five total cycles) with the adjustment in the full open (CW) position versus the full closed position (CCW).


    <iframe title="YouTube video player" class="youtube-player" type="text/html" width="640" height="390" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/kbNfgCWVjo8?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowFullScreen></iframe>
    Last edited by MarkHL; 01-29-2011 at 11:13 AM.

  97. #297
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    Well, I busted my remote today. I had to unclip to dab and my shorts caught the push button. Snap! And it was gone. Anybody had any luck getting a replacement button/plunger? My LBS is so out of touch he had no idea what the reverb was. I doubt he will be much help.

  98. #298
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    Call SRAM, looks like you can get one from them. highaltitude from a few posts ago got one.

  99. #299
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    Quote Originally Posted by larlev
    After a few rides with the post I wish the top out could be set within a range. I guess I'm one of the few who have it installed all the way to the aluminum stopper. I need about a 1/4"- 3/8" lower than it allows to pedal properly. I have to bump it down a little everytime..which is not that big of a deal. The post isn't made for XC riding anyway. It would be cool if we could have a little adjustment on where it fully extends. I can't think of a way to make sure it is at the same spot every time.
    Man, this sucks! I'm small and even on my small frame, only 150mm of seatpost is out. 195mm is way too much =(

  100. #300
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    Who has best price ??

    What the hell happened to the price, figured it would come down.....instead it has gone the other way. $300 bucks ??

    Can get a KS for $220.

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