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  1. #2801
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    tried all that...

    still creaked

    I ride with my seat forward to help climbing...

    I reversed the lower saddle rail clamp so more of it was in contact with the rails....

    Viola no more creaks

  2. #2802
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    RockShox Reverb Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by jeffscott View Post
    tried all that...

    still creaked

    I ride with my seat forward to help climbing...

    I reversed the lower saddle rail clamp so more of it was in contact with the rails....

    Viola no more creaks
    mine as well in spite of being clean and proper torque. haven't reversed anything yet. what's your saddle?
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  3. #2803
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    RockShox Reverb Thread



    OK, I remember myself saying it's not easy to bleed with the bleeding edge - I take that away.

    At each press I do the post returns slower than the previous. As I have observed, I'm leaking at the circled portion. I'm very sure that I've threaded the barb correctly and that it's flushed. I've redone it 3x to be sure and still the same, each time cutting to get a fresh end. Now I'm running out of excess so i stopped for now. It's also worth mentioning that the hose has seated fully in all 3 cases. I've measured the depth and it's ~10mm

    https://youtu.be/g_6rL47VFAU

    A few things I'm seeing here:
    - hose has expanded? - when i thread the barb it's way too easy compared to the push remote
    - new barb is thinner? - see above
    - barb/o-ring inside the remote is lose - I held back from opening the end, but I'm already tempted to.

    To elaborate a bit on the expanded hose or thinner barb, If you guys worked on previous versions, you feel a tight engagement while turning and requires a bit of effort to overcome the resistance. Consequently, the feeling of reaching the bottom is very obvious. All these are gone in the new remote.

    What I'm curious is whether this has an o-ring? IMO, it should, otherwise how will it seal. I tried to turn the hex cover (whatever its called), but it's way too tight, so I held back and didn't bother. The way I see it, the barb itself isn't threaded to the main body (unlike the previous one). It seems to be pressed by the cap that goes with it. This leaves a huge room for error in terms of sealing IMO. Unfortunately, the parts catalog does not include this yet, so I can't confirm the internals.



    pity i'm overseas and i got my item from the other side of the globe...
    Last edited by spyghost; 4 Weeks Ago at 09:03 PM.
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  4. #2804
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    WRONG>>>>I put mine together, it worked, and I don't remember the details at this point. As I recall, you screw the barb into the hose using a small torx until the flange is flush against the end of the hose and then the red olive threads onto the flanged end of the barb with left hand thread, right?

    I believe the seal is created by the olive compressing against a conical bore in the lever and squeezing down on the hose, as it is with brake levers.<<<WRONG


    Edit: Hey. Never mind. I was confusing installing the 1x remote with installing new SRAM Level brakes, which do have a new barb and left-hand threaded olives. The 1X remote just threads onto the hose, kinda like the old plunger remotes.
    Last edited by Lone Rager; 4 Weeks Ago at 04:51 AM.
    Do the math.

  5. #2805
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lone Rager View Post
    I put mine together, it worked, and I don't remember the details at this point. As I recall, you screw the barb into the hose using a small torx until the flange is flush against the end of the hose and then the red olive threads onto the flanged end of the barb with left hand thread, right?

    I believe the seal is created by the olive compressing against a conical bore in the lever and squeezing down on the hose, as it is with brake levers.
    this is the instructional vid i followed. the process of threading the hose is at 1:30. there's no mention of torx or olive anywhere

    https://youtu.be/f1__XVOjkvo
    Last edited by spyghost; 4 Weeks Ago at 04:51 PM.
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  6. #2806
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    Quote Originally Posted by spyghost View Post
    this is the instructional vid i followed. the process of threading the hose is at 1:30. there's no mention of torx or olive anywhere

    https://youtu.be/f1__XVOjkvo
    I'd stay clear of the YouTube videos if you can. They often leave out critical info that is in the service manual. They should only be used to supplement the manual. I haven't fitted one of these yet but it looks like you are doing everything right. Are you using SRAM original hose? I always use a torque wrench on the barbs and they do feel tight. I can't see an olive used like the brakes, only a barb and the new style compression nut. Manual is here and the pages you need are 39-40:

    https://sram-cdn-pull-zone-gsdesign...._c_english.pdf

  7. #2807
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    Quote Originally Posted by niva1989 View Post
    I'd stay clear of the YouTube videos if you can. They often leave out critical info that is in the service manual. They should only be used to supplement the manual. I haven't fitted one of these yet but it looks like you are doing everything right. Are you using SRAM original hose? I always use a torque wrench on the barbs and they do feel tight. I can't see an olive used like the brakes, only a barb and the new style compression nut. Manual is here and the pages you need are 39-40:

    https://sram-cdn-pull-zone-gsdesign...._c_english.pdf
    Thanks for the reference.

    Yes, I'm just re-using my original hose with a freshly cut end. The barb must have turned while I was installing or come loose for that action.

    Hmmm... my kit didn't come with a new barb nor with a new hose!
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  8. #2808
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    Quote Originally Posted by spyghost View Post
    Thanks for the reference.

    Yes, I'm just re-using my hose with a freshly cut end. The barb must have turned while I was installing or come loose for that action.

    Hmmm... my kit didn't come with a new barb!
    It looks like a different style barb from the old one.

  9. #2809
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    Quote Originally Posted by niva1989 View Post
    It looks like a different style barb from the old one.
    yea, looks more like that of a brake except that it's black and has threads...
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  10. #2810
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    Hey. Never mind on my post about a barb and threaded olive. I was confusing installing the 1x remote with installing new SRAM Level brakes, which do have a new barb and left-hand threaded olives.
    Do the math.

  11. #2811
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    RockShox Reverb Thread

    i did further troubleshooting and it seems that I haven't fully seated the hose!

    i tried to turn the lever and surprisingly i was able to twist it further by a bit more than a full turn.

    It must be my grip slipping before giving me the feeling that I've fully seated the hose.

    Been working fine in the garage. Further testing on the weekend... now I'm stoked!

    Given this experience, RS should align the youtube video according to the PDF instructions. Perhaps even ensure that the upgrade kit has the barb uninstalled. Threading it using a T6 is quite foolproof in that users get a visual whether it has fully seated or not.
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  12. #2812
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    Quote Originally Posted by spyghost View Post
    i did further troubleshooting and it seems that I haven't fully seated the hose!

    i tried to turn the lever and surprisingly i was able to twist it further by a bit more than a full turn.

    It must be my grip slipping before giving me the feeling that I've fully seated the hose.

    Been working fine in the garage. Further testing on the weekend... now I'm stoked!

    Given this experience, RS should align the youtube video according to the PDF instructions. Perhaps even ensure that the upgrade kit has the barb uninstalled. Threading it using a T6 is quite foolproof in that users get a visual whether it has fully seated or not.
    That's good news.

  13. #2813
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    Quote Originally Posted by spyghost View Post
    mine as well in spite of being clean and proper torque. haven't reversed anything yet. what's your saddle?
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  14. #2814
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    For those who have installed the new 1x lever on an existing reverb did you need to go through the full bleed procedure as on the SRAM video?

    This site says to install it with just putting the bleeding edge tool on the lever side and fill it with fluid from there....has anyone had luck doing it this way? Thx

    How to mount the new RockShox Reverb 1X Remote lever | ENDURO Mountainbike Magazine

  15. #2815
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    RockShox Reverb Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by dba4life View Post
    For those who have installed the new 1x lever on an existing reverb did you need to go through the full bleed procedure as on the SRAM video?

    This site says to install it with just putting the bleeding edge tool on the lever side and fill it with fluid from there....has anyone had luck doing it this way? Thx

    How to mount the new RockShox Reverb 1X Remote lever | ENDURO Mountainbike Magazine
    i bled the entire system.

    OT: interesting name, are you really a DBA? ie database admin
    Last edited by spyghost; 2 Weeks Ago at 04:14 PM.
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  16. #2816
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    I might decide to try and rebuild the reverb with the basic service kit to fix the sag. Is it 100% required to bleed the remote or can I avoid that if Im careful not to let much fluid leak out of the hose? I have an A2. Its just a stupid on/off remote, I cant imagine it being very sensitive to air in the system.

    If I have to then is the connection for the bleed the same as old Avid brakes? I have that kit, it was used for DOT fluid but Ive thoroughly cleaned it with alcohol and use them for mineral oil now. I know the dangers of mixing DOT fluid with mineral oil systems but I dont care, I hate this piece of garbage and I will not be buying a Reverb bleed kit.

    If I cant get this thing working for less than 20 bucks then its going in the trash.

  17. #2817
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    Quote Originally Posted by spyghost View Post
    i bled the entire system.
    Same here.

  18. #2818
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    Quote Originally Posted by spyghost View Post
    i bled the entire system.

    OT: interesting name, are you really a DBA? ie database admin
    Well I tried the method of just filling fluid from the 1x lever side and did a really poor job of it...forgot to put the lever cover over the hose before screwing it on to the barb so had to do it 2x times, then noticed that I disconnected the original plunger remote with the seatpost down (not sure if that matters, but I assume it should). But somehow it all worked A-OK after doing the 1x lever bleed technique in the SRAM video about creating a vacuum, then slowly depressing the lever, removing vacuum then releasing the lever with some pressure on the syringe until you don't see any more air bubbles. When set to the fastest setting the seatpost rockets up. I had to turn it to close to the slowest setting and it is still "fast". So I would give this method a shot first when installing.

    And regarding the "DBA4Life" about 20 years ago I was a DBA (Informix) and that was an email address I created when looking for a new job as something like that was "cool" at the time.....20 years later the name just stuck. I moved on to more general IT management many many years ago.

  19. #2819
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    Quote Originally Posted by dba4life View Post
    ...I disconnected the original plunger remote with the seatpost down (not sure if that matters, but I assume it should). ...
    It doesn't. The fluid in the remote only operates a valve in the seatpost, just like the cable in cable operated hydraulic posts. The remote fluid doesn't touch or mix with the post fluid.
    Do the math.

  20. #2820
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    Hoping I can get some advice before I tear my Reverb apart again. I have a non-stealth A2 that lost pressure and wouldn't hold air. I ordered the basic rebuild kit (o-rings and bushing) and IFP bleed tool, took the whole post apart, replaced the o-rings, (I think) bled the IFP, and put the whole thing back together. I then bled the remote, which I think was successful (no air bubbles, good pressure on the remote lever, have bled Avid brakes before), but the post is stuck up. The post holds air, letting the air doesn't help the post drop down. Do I need to rebleed the IFP? If so, any tips???

  21. #2821
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    The air doesn't hold the post up so letting it out won't allow the post to drop. The fluid in the IFP tube is what holds the seat up. If the remote is not actuating the valve in the post, it won't drop or go back up when dropped.
    Do the math.

  22. #2822
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lone Rager View Post
    The air doesn't hold the post up so letting it out won't allow the post to drop. The fluid in the IFP tube is what holds the seat up. If the remote is not actuating the valve in the post, it won't drop or go back up when dropped.
    Makes sense. The air is for the return, right? So, if the post is staying up, is it safe to assume that it is an issue with the remote, or is it possible that I have overfilled or improperly bled the IFP?

  23. #2823
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    Anyone ever have an issue with not weighing enough to easily lower your post? My wife keeps complaining that she has to kind of bounce or try to get extra weight on the reverb to get it to lower. She's around 125lbs without riding gear. When I try riding her bike it lowers just fine and feels exactly like the reverb on my bike. Is there a way to adjust the threshold of what it takes to lower the post?

  24. #2824
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    Quote Originally Posted by DaveX View Post
    Anyone ever have an issue with not weighing enough to easily lower your post? My wife keeps complaining that she has to kind of bounce or try to get extra weight on the reverb to get it to lower. She's around 125lbs without riding gear. When I try riding her bike it lowers just fine and feels exactly like the reverb on my bike. Is there a way to adjust the threshold of what it takes to lower the post?
    The quicker the return of the post, the easier for itto drop as well - so turn the knob or the screw to faster
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  25. #2825
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    Quote Originally Posted by spyghost View Post
    The quicker the return of the post, the easier for itto drop as well - so turn the knob or the screw to faster
    Unfortunately I've already tried that with no luck.

  26. #2826
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    Quote Originally Posted by DaveX View Post
    Unfortunately I've already tried that with no luck.
    how old is the post from last rebuild?

    might also be seat clamp too tight?
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  27. #2827
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    Quote Originally Posted by spyghost View Post
    how old is the post from last rebuild?

    might also be seat clamp too tight?
    The post has never been rebuilt. I think my wife has around 30 rides max on it, rarely if ever dropping it on those rides. Good call on the seat lamp, I'll check it. There really doesn't seem to be anything wrong with it when I try it, drops just fine. I may have her try mine to see if it drops under her weight.

  28. #2828
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    Quote Originally Posted by DaveX View Post
    The post has never been rebuilt. I think my wife has around 30 rides max on it, rarely if ever dropping it on those rides. Good call on the seat lamp, I'll check it. There really doesn't seem to be anything wrong with it when I try it, drops just fine. I may have her try mine to see if it drops under her weight.
    or could be just her

    when i started with a dropper i found it odd and extra effort, but turned out to be natural later on
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  29. #2829
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    Quote Originally Posted by Twowheelssoar View Post
    Hoping I can get some advice before I tear my Reverb apart again. I have a non-stealth A2 that lost pressure and wouldn't hold air. I ordered the basic rebuild kit (o-rings and bushing) and IFP bleed tool, took the whole post apart, replaced the o-rings, (I think) bled the IFP, and put the whole thing back together. I then bled the remote, which I think was successful (no air bubbles, good pressure on the remote lever, have bled Avid brakes before), but the post is stuck up. The post holds air, letting the air doesn't help the post drop down. Do I need to rebleed the IFP? If so, any tips???
    Sounds like you need to bleed the remote again. I have a non stealth too. Stealth or not it can take a couple of bleeds sometimes. You should be able hear or feel the poppet valve in the top of the post clicking as the remote is pushed. Letting some air out will make the post easier to drop but only if the remote circuit is working. It may not return very well though. The remote fluid pushes on the poppet valve piston and makes it move to allow the ifp piston to travel in the post. Sounds like you got the rest of the build done ok if it is holding air and locking solid in the up position. Bleed again making sure the bleed port on the post is lower than the remote and the speed adjuster is wound to full slow. It can seem like all the air is out as you don't see any bubbles in the syringes but you may be pushing a big bubble of air back and forth in the hose. Make sure you create a vacuum with one syringe and push quickly with the other to dislodge any bubbles in the system. A test of a good bleed is the remote plunger fully returning on its own. If you have to pull it out to full extension you have air in the system.

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