RockShox Reverb Thread

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  • 06-16-2017
    jeffscott
    tried all that...

    still creaked

    I ride with my seat forward to help climbing...

    I reversed the lower saddle rail clamp so more of it was in contact with the rails....

    Viola no more creaks
  • 06-17-2017
    spyghost
    RockShox Reverb Thread
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by jeffscott View Post
    tried all that...

    still creaked

    I ride with my seat forward to help climbing...

    I reversed the lower saddle rail clamp so more of it was in contact with the rails....

    Viola no more creaks

    mine as well in spite of being clean and proper torque. haven't reversed anything yet. what's your saddle?
  • 06-17-2017
    spyghost
    RockShox Reverb Thread


    OK, I remember myself saying it's not easy to bleed with the bleeding edge - I take that away.

    At each press I do the post returns slower than the previous. As I have observed, I'm leaking at the circled portion. I'm very sure that I've threaded the barb correctly and that it's flushed. I've redone it 3x to be sure and still the same, each time cutting to get a fresh end. Now I'm running out of excess so i stopped for now. It's also worth mentioning that the hose has seated fully in all 3 cases. I've measured the depth and it's ~10mm

    https://youtu.be/g_6rL47VFAU

    A few things I'm seeing here:
    - hose has expanded? - when i thread the barb it's way too easy compared to the push remote
    - new barb is thinner? - see above
    - barb/o-ring inside the remote is lose - I held back from opening the end, but I'm already tempted to.

    To elaborate a bit on the expanded hose or thinner barb, If you guys worked on previous versions, you feel a tight engagement while turning and requires a bit of effort to overcome the resistance. Consequently, the feeling of reaching the bottom is very obvious. All these are gone in the new remote.

    What I'm curious is whether this has an o-ring? IMO, it should, otherwise how will it seal. I tried to turn the hex cover (whatever its called), but it's way too tight, so I held back and didn't bother. The way I see it, the barb itself isn't threaded to the main body (unlike the previous one). It seems to be pressed by the cap that goes with it. This leaves a huge room for error in terms of sealing IMO. Unfortunately, the parts catalog does not include this yet, so I can't confirm the internals.



    pity i'm overseas and i got my item from the other side of the globe...
  • 06-18-2017
    Lone Rager
    WRONG>>>>I put mine together, it worked, and I don't remember the details at this point. As I recall, you screw the barb into the hose using a small torx until the flange is flush against the end of the hose and then the red olive threads onto the flanged end of the barb with left hand thread, right?

    I believe the seal is created by the olive compressing against a conical bore in the lever and squeezing down on the hose, as it is with brake levers.<<<WRONG


    Edit: Hey. Never mind. I was confusing installing the 1x remote with installing new SRAM Level brakes, which do have a new barb and left-hand threaded olives. The 1X remote just threads onto the hose, kinda like the old plunger remotes.
  • 06-18-2017
    spyghost
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Lone Rager View Post
    I put mine together, it worked, and I don't remember the details at this point. As I recall, you screw the barb into the hose using a small torx until the flange is flush against the end of the hose and then the red olive threads onto the flanged end of the barb with left hand thread, right?

    I believe the seal is created by the olive compressing against a conical bore in the lever and squeezing down on the hose, as it is with brake levers.

    this is the instructional vid i followed. the process of threading the hose is at 1:30. there's no mention of torx or olive anywhere

    https://youtu.be/f1__XVOjkvo
  • 06-18-2017
    niva1989
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by spyghost View Post
    this is the instructional vid i followed. the process of threading the hose is at 1:30. there's no mention of torx or olive anywhere

    https://youtu.be/f1__XVOjkvo

    I'd stay clear of the YouTube videos if you can. They often leave out critical info that is in the service manual. They should only be used to supplement the manual. I haven't fitted one of these yet but it looks like you are doing everything right. Are you using SRAM original hose? I always use a torque wrench on the barbs and they do feel tight. I can't see an olive used like the brakes, only a barb and the new style compression nut. Manual is here and the pages you need are 39-40:

    https://sram-cdn-pull-zone-gsdesign...._c_english.pdf
  • 06-18-2017
    spyghost
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by niva1989 View Post
    I'd stay clear of the YouTube videos if you can. They often leave out critical info that is in the service manual. They should only be used to supplement the manual. I haven't fitted one of these yet but it looks like you are doing everything right. Are you using SRAM original hose? I always use a torque wrench on the barbs and they do feel tight. I can't see an olive used like the brakes, only a barb and the new style compression nut. Manual is here and the pages you need are 39-40:

    https://sram-cdn-pull-zone-gsdesign...._c_english.pdf

    Thanks for the reference.

    Yes, I'm just re-using my original hose with a freshly cut end. The barb must have turned while I was installing or come loose for that action.

    Hmmm... my kit didn't come with a new barb nor with a new hose!
  • 06-18-2017
    niva1989
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by spyghost View Post
    Thanks for the reference.

    Yes, I'm just re-using my hose with a freshly cut end. The barb must have turned while I was installing or come loose for that action.

    Hmmm... my kit didn't come with a new barb!

    It looks like a different style barb from the old one.
  • 06-18-2017
    spyghost
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by niva1989 View Post
    It looks like a different style barb from the old one.

    yea, looks more like that of a brake except that it's black and has threads...
  • 06-19-2017
    Lone Rager
    Hey. Never mind on my post about a barb and threaded olive. I was confusing installing the 1x remote with installing new SRAM Level brakes, which do have a new barb and left-hand threaded olives.
  • 06-19-2017
    spyghost
    RockShox Reverb Thread
    i did further troubleshooting and it seems that I haven't fully seated the hose!

    i tried to turn the lever and surprisingly i was able to twist it further by a bit more than a full turn.

    It must be my grip slipping before giving me the feeling that I've fully seated the hose.

    Been working fine in the garage. Further testing on the weekend... now I'm stoked!

    Given this experience, RS should align the youtube video according to the PDF instructions. Perhaps even ensure that the upgrade kit has the barb uninstalled. Threading it using a T6 is quite foolproof in that users get a visual whether it has fully seated or not.
  • 06-19-2017
    niva1989
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by spyghost View Post
    i did further troubleshooting and it seems that I haven't fully seated the hose!

    i tried to turn the lever and surprisingly i was able to twist it further by a bit more than a full turn.

    It must be my grip slipping before giving me the feeling that I've fully seated the hose.

    Been working fine in the garage. Further testing on the weekend... now I'm stoked!

    Given this experience, RS should align the youtube video according to the PDF instructions. Perhaps even ensure that the upgrade kit has the barb uninstalled. Threading it using a T6 is quite foolproof in that users get a visual whether it has fully seated or not.

    That's good news.
  • 06-20-2017
    jeffscott
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by spyghost View Post
    mine as well in spite of being clean and proper torque. haven't reversed anything yet. what's your saddle?

    Henke specialized
  • 07-05-2017
    dba4life
    For those who have installed the new 1x lever on an existing reverb did you need to go through the full bleed procedure as on the SRAM video?

    This site says to install it with just putting the bleeding edge tool on the lever side and fill it with fluid from there....has anyone had luck doing it this way? Thx

    How to mount the new RockShox Reverb 1X Remote lever | ENDURO Mountainbike Magazine
  • 07-05-2017
    spyghost
    RockShox Reverb Thread
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by dba4life View Post
    For those who have installed the new 1x lever on an existing reverb did you need to go through the full bleed procedure as on the SRAM video?

    This site says to install it with just putting the bleeding edge tool on the lever side and fill it with fluid from there....has anyone had luck doing it this way? Thx

    How to mount the new RockShox Reverb 1X Remote lever | ENDURO Mountainbike Magazine

    i bled the entire system.

    OT: interesting name, are you really a DBA? ie database admin ;)
  • 07-05-2017
    idividebyzero
    I might decide to try and rebuild the reverb with the basic service kit to fix the sag. Is it 100% required to bleed the remote or can I avoid that if Im careful not to let much fluid leak out of the hose? I have an A2. Its just a stupid on/off remote, I cant imagine it being very sensitive to air in the system.

    If I have to then is the connection for the bleed the same as old Avid brakes? I have that kit, it was used for DOT fluid but Ive thoroughly cleaned it with alcohol and use them for mineral oil now. I know the dangers of mixing DOT fluid with mineral oil systems but I dont care, I hate this piece of garbage and I will not be buying a Reverb bleed kit.

    If I cant get this thing working for less than 20 bucks then its going in the trash.
  • 07-05-2017
    SonomaBiker
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by spyghost View Post
    i bled the entire system.

    Same here.
  • 07-05-2017
    dba4life
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by spyghost View Post
    i bled the entire system.

    OT: interesting name, are you really a DBA? ie database admin ;)

    Well I tried the method of just filling fluid from the 1x lever side and did a really poor job of it...forgot to put the lever cover over the hose before screwing it on to the barb so had to do it 2x times, then noticed that I disconnected the original plunger remote with the seatpost down (not sure if that matters, but I assume it should). But somehow it all worked A-OK after doing the 1x lever bleed technique in the SRAM video about creating a vacuum, then slowly depressing the lever, removing vacuum then releasing the lever with some pressure on the syringe until you don't see any more air bubbles. When set to the fastest setting the seatpost rockets up. I had to turn it to close to the slowest setting and it is still "fast". So I would give this method a shot first when installing.

    And regarding the "DBA4Life" about 20 years ago I was a DBA (Informix) and that was an email address I created when looking for a new job as something like that was "cool" at the time.....20 years later the name just stuck. I moved on to more general IT management many many years ago.
  • 07-06-2017
    Lone Rager
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by dba4life View Post
    ...I disconnected the original plunger remote with the seatpost down (not sure if that matters, but I assume it should). ...

    It doesn't. The fluid in the remote only operates a valve in the seatpost, just like the cable in cable operated hydraulic posts. The remote fluid doesn't touch or mix with the post fluid.
  • 07-17-2017
    Twowheelssoar
    Hoping I can get some advice before I tear my Reverb apart again. I have a non-stealth A2 that lost pressure and wouldn't hold air. I ordered the basic rebuild kit (o-rings and bushing) and IFP bleed tool, took the whole post apart, replaced the o-rings, (I think) bled the IFP, and put the whole thing back together. I then bled the remote, which I think was successful (no air bubbles, good pressure on the remote lever, have bled Avid brakes before), but the post is stuck up. The post holds air, letting the air doesn't help the post drop down. Do I need to rebleed the IFP? If so, any tips???
  • 07-18-2017
    Lone Rager
    The air doesn't hold the post up so letting it out won't allow the post to drop. The fluid in the IFP tube is what holds the seat up. If the remote is not actuating the valve in the post, it won't drop or go back up when dropped.
  • 07-18-2017
    Twowheelssoar
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Lone Rager View Post
    The air doesn't hold the post up so letting it out won't allow the post to drop. The fluid in the IFP tube is what holds the seat up. If the remote is not actuating the valve in the post, it won't drop or go back up when dropped.

    Makes sense. The air is for the return, right? So, if the post is staying up, is it safe to assume that it is an issue with the remote, or is it possible that I have overfilled or improperly bled the IFP?
  • 07-18-2017
    DaveX
    Anyone ever have an issue with not weighing enough to easily lower your post? My wife keeps complaining that she has to kind of bounce or try to get extra weight on the reverb to get it to lower. She's around 125lbs without riding gear. When I try riding her bike it lowers just fine and feels exactly like the reverb on my bike. Is there a way to adjust the threshold of what it takes to lower the post?
  • 07-18-2017
    spyghost
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by DaveX View Post
    Anyone ever have an issue with not weighing enough to easily lower your post? My wife keeps complaining that she has to kind of bounce or try to get extra weight on the reverb to get it to lower. She's around 125lbs without riding gear. When I try riding her bike it lowers just fine and feels exactly like the reverb on my bike. Is there a way to adjust the threshold of what it takes to lower the post?

    The quicker the return of the post, the easier for itto drop as well - so turn the knob or the screw to faster
  • 07-18-2017
    DaveX
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by spyghost View Post
    The quicker the return of the post, the easier for itto drop as well - so turn the knob or the screw to faster

    Unfortunately I've already tried that with no luck.
  • 07-18-2017
    spyghost
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by DaveX View Post
    Unfortunately I've already tried that with no luck.

    how old is the post from last rebuild?

    might also be seat clamp too tight?
  • 07-18-2017
    DaveX
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by spyghost View Post
    how old is the post from last rebuild?

    might also be seat clamp too tight?

    The post has never been rebuilt. I think my wife has around 30 rides max on it, rarely if ever dropping it on those rides. Good call on the seat lamp, I'll check it. There really doesn't seem to be anything wrong with it when I try it, drops just fine. I may have her try mine to see if it drops under her weight.
  • 07-18-2017
    spyghost
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by DaveX View Post
    The post has never been rebuilt. I think my wife has around 30 rides max on it, rarely if ever dropping it on those rides. Good call on the seat lamp, I'll check it. There really doesn't seem to be anything wrong with it when I try it, drops just fine. I may have her try mine to see if it drops under her weight.

    or could be just her :)

    when i started with a dropper i found it odd and extra effort, but turned out to be natural later on
  • 07-19-2017
    niva1989
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Twowheelssoar View Post
    Hoping I can get some advice before I tear my Reverb apart again. I have a non-stealth A2 that lost pressure and wouldn't hold air. I ordered the basic rebuild kit (o-rings and bushing) and IFP bleed tool, took the whole post apart, replaced the o-rings, (I think) bled the IFP, and put the whole thing back together. I then bled the remote, which I think was successful (no air bubbles, good pressure on the remote lever, have bled Avid brakes before), but the post is stuck up. The post holds air, letting the air doesn't help the post drop down. Do I need to rebleed the IFP? If so, any tips???

    Sounds like you need to bleed the remote again. I have a non stealth too. Stealth or not it can take a couple of bleeds sometimes. You should be able hear or feel the poppet valve in the top of the post clicking as the remote is pushed. Letting some air out will make the post easier to drop but only if the remote circuit is working. It may not return very well though. The remote fluid pushes on the poppet valve piston and makes it move to allow the ifp piston to travel in the post. Sounds like you got the rest of the build done ok if it is holding air and locking solid in the up position. Bleed again making sure the bleed port on the post is lower than the remote and the speed adjuster is wound to full slow. It can seem like all the air is out as you don't see any bubbles in the syringes but you may be pushing a big bubble of air back and forth in the hose. Make sure you create a vacuum with one syringe and push quickly with the other to dislodge any bubbles in the system. A test of a good bleed is the remote plunger fully returning on its own. If you have to pull it out to full extension you have air in the system.
  • 08-19-2017
    quagmireDan
    1 Attachment(s)
    My dropper post is moving left to right when looking down at the top of the seat. It is probably moving 5-10 degrees both left and right. The top piece of the upper post is rotating not the long main piece of the top post, not sure what its called (seam where the post is rotating shown below). I watched the sram service video on youtube but they never touch the seat clamp portion.

    Is there any easy fix? Do I need an entire new top tube?

    Attachment 1152990
  • 08-19-2017
    seamarsh
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by DaveX View Post
    Anyone ever have an issue with not weighing enough to easily lower your post? My wife keeps complaining that she has to kind of bounce or try to get extra weight on the reverb to get it to lower. She's around 125lbs without riding gear. When I try riding her bike it lowers just fine and feels exactly like the reverb on my bike. Is there a way to adjust the threshold of what it takes to lower the post?

    Same thing on my post, been that way since day one, really annoying and still have not found a solution.

    Tried bleed, seat post clamp and regressing seal.

    Let me know if you find a solution. Feel like dry seal stiction somewhere, maybe a bushing
  • 08-20-2017
    niva1989
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by quagmireDan View Post
    My dropper post is moving left to right when looking down at the top of the seat. It is probably moving 5-10 degrees both left and right. The top piece of the upper post is rotating not the long main piece of the top post, not sure what its called (seam where the post is rotating shown below). I watched the sram service video on youtube but they never touch the seat clamp portion.

    Is there any easy fix? Do I need an entire new top tube?

    Attachment 1152990

    I'd say you will need a new top tube. That joint is not one that should seperate easily. I've never seen one loose before. It will also mean that the joint will not be sealed anymore too.
  • 08-20-2017
    Rick Draper
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by quagmireDan View Post
    My dropper post is moving left to right when looking down at the top of the seat. It is probably moving 5-10 degrees both left and right. The top piece of the upper post is rotating not the long main piece of the top post, not sure what its called (seam where the post is rotating shown below). I watched the sram service video on youtube but they never touch the seat clamp portion.

    Is there any easy fix? Do I need an entire new top tube?

    Attachment 1152990

    You need to strip the post down, undo the head off the stanchion, clean it throughly to ensure its clean of oil and grease then re-install the top cap using read loctite on the threads.
  • 08-20-2017
    niva1989
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Rick Draper View Post
    You need to strip the post down, undo the head off the stanchion, clean it throughly to ensure its clean of oil and grease then re-install the top cap using read loctite on the threads.

    Must normally be very tight. I've hung off that main seal head to get it undone but have never had one of those top sections come loose. I assumed it was a heavy press fit. Thanks for the info Rick.
  • 08-21-2017
    Scott2MTB
    I have an issue I don't see an immediate answer for...

    I installed the 1x remote on a pretty new Reverb Stealth which came with a new NS Snabb Plus which II purchased a couple months ago. I followed the RS/SRAM video and everything seemed to work fine. During the first ride though, it started to get slower and slower (to raise and lower) - even after I increased the speed to max. When I got home, I rebled the dropper and it returned to normal operation and after a few minutes riding around in the street started getting slower. I repeated the cycle 2 more times (thinking I must be doing something wrong with the bleed) and each time the dropper stopped working correctly a little sooner.

    Does anyone have any ideas what might be wrong? I checked the air when I installed the lever and it was fine so I assume no leak - though I don't think that would have anything to do with this issue. I also don't see any leaking fluid, though I guess it's possible there's some in the frame?
  • 08-21-2017
    spyghost
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Scott2MTB View Post
    I have an issue I don't see an immediate answer for...

    I installed the 1x remote on a pretty new Reverb Stealth which came with a new NS Snabb Plus which II purchased a couple months ago. I followed the RS/SRAM video and everything seemed to work fine. During the first ride though, it started to get slower and slower (to raise and lower) - even after I increased the speed to max. When I got home, I rebled the dropper and it returned to normal operation and after a few minutes riding around in the street started getting slower. I repeated the cycle 2 more times (thinking I must be doing something wrong with the bleed) and each time the dropper stopped working correctly a little sooner.

    Does anyone have any ideas what might be wrong? I checked the air when I installed the lever and it was fine so I assume no leak - though I don't think that would have anything to do with this issue. I also don't see any leaking fluid, though I guess it's possible there's some in the frame?

    Check your hose connection for leaks/bubbles. If that is the case, either you might not have fully threaded the hose or overtightened. In my case below, not fully threaded.

    https://youtu.be/g_6rL47VFAU
  • 08-21-2017
    niva1989
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Scott2MTB View Post
    I have an issue I don't see an immediate answer for...

    I installed the 1x remote on a pretty new Reverb Stealth which came with a new NS Snabb Plus which II purchased a couple months ago. I followed the RS/SRAM video and everything seemed to work fine. During the first ride though, it started to get slower and slower (to raise and lower) - even after I increased the speed to max. When I got home, I rebled the dropper and it returned to normal operation and after a few minutes riding around in the street started getting slower. I repeated the cycle 2 more times (thinking I must be doing something wrong with the bleed) and each time the dropper stopped working correctly a little sooner.

    Does anyone have any ideas what might be wrong? I checked the air when I installed the lever and it was fine so I assume no leak - though I don't think that would have anything to do with this issue. I also don't see any leaking fluid, though I guess it's possible there's some in the frame?

    Your def loosing fluid out of the lever circuit somewhere. Check for leaks at the lever and at the seatpost barb. Most likely you will finds leak at the seatpost end as you mentioned that you can't see any oil leaking from the lever.
  • 08-21-2017
    Scott2MTB
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by spyghost View Post
    Check your hose connection for leaks/bubbles. If that is kthe case, either you might not have fully threaded the hose or overtightened. In my case below, not fully threaded.

    https://youtu.be/g_6rL47VFAU

    Interesting. That seems very obvious. I'll check and see if I seated the barb all the way, but I would think that I would have noticed something like that.

    Quote:

    Originally Posted by niva1989 View Post
    Your def loosing fluid out of the lever circuit somewhere. Check for leaks at the lever and at the seatpost barb. Most likely you will finds leak at the seatpost end as you mentioned that you can't see any oil leaking from the lever.

    So basically, either way it's probably a fluid leak. I was afraid that might be it and I'm worried that it will end up being the hose somewhere in the frame - which looks to be a real pain to route. I'm travelling today so I won't be able to check until tomorrow but I'll report back once I get a minute to look at it.

    Thanks for the replies!
  • 08-21-2017
    niva1989
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Scott2MTB View Post
    Interesting. That seems very obvious. I'll check and see if I seated the barb all the way, but I would think that I would have noticed something like that.



    So basically, either way it's probably a fluid leak. I was afraid that might be it and I'm worried that it will end up being the hose somewhere in the frame - which looks to be a real pain to route. I'm travelling today so I won't be able to check until tomorrow but I'll report back once I get a minute to look at it.

    Thanks for the replies!

    Should be easy to check barb at the base of the seatpost. Just remove the lever from your handlebars and feed excess cable through to allow you to slide seatpost up and out of the frame to expose the barb.
  • 08-22-2017
    bvader
    I had / reverb stealth V B1 had a lot of issues, I have friends that have never had issues. Have any of you tried something like this to just get rid of the hydraulic remote? https://www.bikeyoke.de/en/rockshox-...-dehy-kit.html

    I was seriously considering but ended up buying the whole BikeYoke revive but I still have my stealth thinking of converting for back up or sale...
  • 08-22-2017
    Lone Rager
    I'm not a fan of the hydro remote, and hated the ergos of the plunger type, but I don't think it's a typical source of trouble with the Reverb. Because of the ergos I considered the dehy but got the 1x remote instead. It's still heavy and without any real befit over a good cable remote.
  • 08-22-2017
    Scott2MTB
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by spyghost View Post
    Check your hose connection for leaks/bubbles. If that is the case, either you might not have fully threaded the hose or overtightened. In my case below, not fully threaded.

    https://youtu.be/g_6rL47VFAU

    Your video was a good lead, but it turned out to be leaking around the speed adjustment screw in the lever itself. I saw the same bubbling effect there. I put the old plunger back on and it's working well now, though it's not positioned well in relation to the new Hope Tech3 E4 setup - which was the reason for the 1x lever in the first place.

    I agree with @Lone Ranger - I'm not a fan of the hydraulic remote.
  • 09-04-2017
    marcw
    2 Attachment(s)
    My external reverb failed to hold pressure a few months ago. Today I started to check it out and took it apart to see if a rebuild kit can fix it. I do not think a rebuild kit will work. It looks like the "slick" coating on the seals are pealing off. Any Idea how to fix?

    Check out the attached pictures
    Attachment 1156001Attachment 1156000
  • 09-04-2017
    gocat
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by marcw View Post
    My external reverb failed to hold pressure a few months ago. Today I started to check it out and took it apart to see if a rebuild kit can fix it. I do not think a rebuild kit will work. It looks like the "slick" coating on the seals are pealing off. Any Idea how to fix?

    Check out the attached pictures
    Attachment 1156001Attachment 1156000

    You can buy a complete seal head assembly. Oh it also looks like you need the top cap assembly.
  • 09-04-2017
    marcw
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by gocat View Post
    You can buy a complete seal head assembly. Oh it also looks like you need the top cap assembly.

    Thanks, found the parts I need. I do not think it is worth fixing. I rather try a different manufacturer. Maybe less issues.

    Anyone need spare parts.
  • 09-04-2017
    gocat
    It is a pain to do. But at least it's rebuildable. I had a used reverb for 1 1/2 years till I need to rebuild it. Work well. I switched to a fox transfer. Working good for 9 months. But not rebuildable. Well at least nothing I've heard at this time.
  • 09-05-2017
    niva1989
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by marcw View Post
    Thanks, found the parts I need. I do not think it is worth fixing. I rather try a different manufacturer. Maybe less issues.

    Anyone need spare parts.

    Rebuilt properly these posts don't give issues. These are much more solid than the cheap gas strut ones that jam up at the sightest build up of dust.
  • 09-06-2017
    Marc Lindarets
    1 Attachment(s)
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Lone Rager View Post
    I'm not a fan of the hydro remote, and hated the ergos of the plunger type, but I don't think it's a typical source of trouble with the Reverb. Because of the ergos I considered the dehy but got the 1x remote instead. It's still heavy and without any real befit over a good cable remote.

    Lone Ranger,
    I wish that we'd been ready in time to help you, but for anyone else is looking for an under-bar non-hydraulic Reverb setup, we at Wolf Tooth launched our Sustain kit today.
    Attachment 1156440
    The kit consists of a Sustain mechanical actuator for Reverb Stealth A2 or B1 posts, the Wolf Tooth ReMote (bar clamp, I-Spec A/B, I-Spec II, or MatchMaker X), cable, and housing for $89-99 depending on options.

    If anyone has any questions (hows, whys, etc.) feel free to ask- I'll do my best to keep tabs on the thread for a bit.

    /spam
  • 09-06-2017
    the_joe
    Damn... just ordered the 1x remote on monday :(
  • 09-06-2017
    gocat
    That's sick! Too bad I got rid of my stealth. But I use the wolftooth remote with my Tranfer!
  • 09-06-2017
    idividebyzero
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by gocat View Post
    It is a pain to do. But at least it's rebuildable. I had a used reverb for 1 1/2 years till I need to rebuild it. Work well. I switched to a fox transfer. Working good for 9 months. But not rebuildable. Well at least nothing I've heard at this time.

    I got a Bontrager Drop Line to replace a sagging Reverb, it is semi-rebuildable. You can take it apart to lube it and when the air cartridge fails its only $50 to replace, the process is extremely easy. For all the crap you have to buy to rebuild a Reverb its not much savings over $50 and you save yourself a lot of hard work.

    I havent rebuilt my A2 yet, its going to be a damn nightmare, not sure if I ever will since I dont know if Im going to be able to do the IFP fluid level properly without an expensive tool Im never going to buy.
  • 09-06-2017
    gocat
    That's true. I bought tools for that reverb. Now I've got spares parts , tools and fluid for reverb I don't have. Lol.
  • 09-06-2017
    yeti575inCA
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Marc Lindarets View Post
    Lone Ranger,
    I wish that we'd been ready in time to help you, but for anyone else is looking for an under-bar non-hydraulic Reverb setup, we at Wolf Tooth launched our Sustain kit today.
    Attachment 1156440
    The kit consists of a Sustain mechanical actuator for Reverb Stealth A2 or B1 posts, the Wolf Tooth ReMote (bar clamp, I-Spec A/B, I-Spec II, or MatchMaker X), cable, and housing for $89-99 depending on options.

    If anyone has any questions (hows, whys, etc.) feel free to ask- I'll do my best to keep tabs on the thread for a bit.

    /spam

    Ill be ordering one!

    Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
  • 09-07-2017
    Lone Rager
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Marc Lindarets View Post
    Lone Ranger,
    I wish that we'd been ready in time to help you, but for anyone else is looking for an under-bar non-hydraulic Reverb setup, we at Wolf Tooth launched our Sustain mechanical actuator for Reverb Stealth A2 or B1 posts...

    It had me puzzled for a minute. The hydro remote pushes and your cable pulls. The Dehy has a lever to make the reversal. After seeing a note to allow a bit of slack in the housing within the seat tube, I realized the cable head remains stationary and you're using the housing to push.
  • 09-07-2017
    Marc Lindarets
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Lone Rager View Post
    It had me puzzled for a minute. The hydro remote pushes and your cable pulls. The Dehy has a lever to make the reversal. After seeing a note to allow a bit of slack in the housing within the seat tube, I realized the cable head remains stationary and you're using the housing to push.

    Good eye! For every action... ;)

    The cable housing does move 6mm when fully depressed. This setup allowed us to keep things simple, light, and compact- the pusher is made of a self-lubricating Delrin (bushing material) and also serves as a cover for the cable port. You can see how it comes together at around 8:45 in the install video.
  • 09-07-2017
    Marc Lindarets
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by gocat View Post
    That's sick! Too bad I got rid of my stealth. But I use the wolftooth remote with my Tranfer!

    Awesome Gocat- the Transfer has been serving me well (and I like that it can, ahem, be bought without a remote).

    FWIW, it sounds like the '18s are a little lighter-action than the '17, so we're leaning back to the shorter ReMote for the newer (more expensive) models.
  • 09-07-2017
    Marc Lindarets
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by yeti575inCA View Post
    Ill be ordering one!

    Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

    Sweet- thanks Yeti!
  • 09-09-2017
    Scotth72
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Marc Lindarets View Post
    Lone Ranger,
    I wish that we'd been ready in time to help you, but for anyone else is looking for an under-bar non-hydraulic Reverb setup, we at Wolf Tooth launched our Sustain kit today.
    Attachment 1156440
    The kit consists of a Sustain mechanical actuator for Reverb Stealth A2 or B1 posts, the Wolf Tooth ReMote (bar clamp, I-Spec A/B, I-Spec II, or MatchMaker X), cable, and housing for $89-99 depending on options.

    If anyone has any questions (hows, whys, etc.) feel free to ask- I'll do my best to keep tabs on the thread for a bit.

    /spam

    Any trouble with bikes that use a rubber grommet to seal housing to frame? Or convoluted housing runs?
    Since the housing has to move to activate the post, I can see certain frames having issues. KS had to redesign their first Integras due to this very issue.
  • 09-09-2017
    Ratt
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Scotth72 View Post
    Any trouble with bikes that use a rubber grommet to seal housing to frame? Or convoluted housing runs?
    Since the housing has to move to activate the post, I can see certain frames having issues. KS had to redesign their first Integras due to this very issue.

    Sorry I haven't kept up with this thread, but is there a problem with the Dehy lever and plunger besides price? I was just wondering why all this Wolftooth love when another solution has been out for over a year.
  • 09-10-2017
    farfromovin
    I just got a new reverb with the updated 1x remote. While I loved my WT on another cable post, I just can't justify going to a cable system when hydraulic works great for me.
  • 09-11-2017
    Marc Lindarets
    Scott,

    We haven't run into any issues in testing- and made a point to seek out frames like Santa Cruz's which use internal routing tubes. The housing movement is less 'travel' than straightening- a total of 6mm effective length change.
    My own Pivot uses a clamp at the cable exit which holds the housing firmly and I feed an extra 1/8-1/4in into the frame when closing things up. No problems whatsoever. If you're worried you might put a small zip tie above the grommet to keep it from drawing through- but we haven't run into a case where that was needed.

    Marc
  • 09-11-2017
    Marc Lindarets
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Ratt View Post
    Sorry I haven't kept up with this thread, but is there a problem with the Dehy lever and plunger besides price? I was just wondering why all this Wolftooth love when another solution has been out for over a year.

    No problem with the DeHy. Some people prefer the rouded shape of their lever or fixed housing, some prefer the cartridge bearing, breakaway axle, and more aggressive knurling on ours. Looks are subjective and I'm sure that system weight is close enough to be a wash.

    Stateside the price and availability differences are pretty big, so those may be as much a factor as anything else. I think that last week's MTBR review sums it up pretty well:
    Competitors

    If youíve made it this far, you probably know Wolf Tooth isnít the first brand with this idea. The BikeYoke Dehy was introduced last year and does virtually the same thing. Weíve tested both and prefer the Wolf Tooth system because itís easier to install, less expensive ($90 versus $130), and has better lever.
    The Sustain is a worthy upgrade for Reverb users.

    Bottom line if youíre currently using an older Reverb with a push button lever, the Sustain is a major upgrade. The install is a little nerve wracking, but honestly itís reasonably simple. Riders with RockShoxís newer paddle style shifter will have less reason to upgrade, but ought to consider it if they frequently ride in cold weather or have struggled with reliability issues.
  • 09-22-2017
    Scotth72
    I just installed the Sustain on my 5010. I am thoroughly versed on Reverb rebuilds, so install was a snap. The remote is fantastic, and release pressure is super smooth. I will report back after I get some rides in.
    Very impressed on how this went together and how it feels on the bike.
  • 09-23-2017
    Marc Lindarets
    Awesome Scotth!

    If there's anything that was unclear in the instructions please let me know- we never know until something is released into the wild.
  • 09-23-2017
    Christopher Robin
    I currently have the standard Reverb remote on the left side, under the bar. No 'real' complaints about it.

    While I don't really need to replace anything, I was eyeing the new Reverb remote and the Wolftooth one. They both add up to pretty much the same price. I guess I'm just looking at opinions on why I should go with cable actuated vs. hydro.
  • 09-24-2017
    Lone Rager
    I have the Reverb 1X paddle type lever and if I was to choose between getting that or the the WT cable lever, I'd get the WT. IMO, the hydro remote is large, heavy and relatively complicated with no offsetting consequential benefit. Of course if you're buying a new Reverb, you can get it with the 1X lever at no additional cost, which is how I wound up with mine.
  • 09-24-2017
    farfromovin
    I went with a new reverb with 1x shifter on a new titanium frame build. This frame has di2 routing ports I used to get the hydraulic hose out through. Definitely not internal routing friendly for traditional size cable housings, through the BB or head tube area. Iím convinced no cable would survive this environment but the hydraulic setup works pretty good. I am a fan of WT products in general but definitely canít use it on this build.
  • 09-24-2017
    Lone Rager
    ^^^ it'd have to be pretty tortuous for a cable not to work for a dropper. It's not like shifting where precise motion is critical.
  • 09-27-2017
    Jingleman
    4 Attachment(s)
    Reverb Stealth too long
    Hello
    I tried to find a bit of help i another new thread but I had no luck, mybe here someone can help?
    I would like to buy a 2017 Dartmoor Hornet front 27,5 frame but I have a problem with my new stealth post. The post is a new Stealth 2017 150 mm 30,9 with 440mm of total length. The problem is that I insert the post in the frame at my pedal height , the Connectamajig assembly goes past the hole in the seat tube which for some reason I don't know, is not at the bottom of seat tube but in the middle of it.
    I thought about 2 possible solutions, please let me know if there is chance to make them work.
    IN the drawing 1 I would force the hose to make 2 loops inside the seat tube, the first loop would be at 180į and the upper loop would be less severe since it would let the hose exit the seat tube.
    I drawing 2 I would force the hose to go down the seat tube, pass through the hole that connects the bb shell and seat tube, go around the plastic cover of the Sram BB and then go up through the same hole and then up again like the previous drawing. To make things even more complicated, the hole in the seat tube has an angle pointing downwards that forces the hose to go through from top . If it was a simple hole the second loop would not be needed. Since it is an hydraulic system , will those bends in the hose make the post to work in a bad way like it would be with a wire cable?Or maybe those bends will damage the hose itself?
    Thanks a lot for your help.

    p.s. I also though to buy the older hose, not the Connectamajig one, which has the final assembly a bit shorter, but the hose would go past the hole anyway.
  • 09-27-2017
    gocat
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Jingleman View Post
    Hello
    I tried to find a bit of help i another new thread but I had no luck, mybe here someone can help?
    I would like to buy a 2017 Dartmoor Hornet front 27,5 frame but I have a problem with my new stealth post. The post is a new Stealth 2017 150 mm 30,9 with 440mm of total length. The problem is that I insert the post in the frame at my pedal height , the Connectamajig assembly goes past the hole in the seat tube which for some reason I don't know, is not at the bottom of seat tube but in the middle of it.
    I thought about 2 possible solutions, please let me know if there is chance to make them work.
    IN the drawing 1 I would force the hose to make 2 loops inside the seat tube, the first loop would be at 180į and the upper loop would be less severe since it would let the hose exit the seat tube.
    I drawing 2 I would force the hose to go down the seat tube, pass through the hole that connects the bb shell and seat tube, go around the plastic cover of the Sram BB and then go up through the same hole and then up again like the previous drawing. To make things even more complicated, the hole in the seat tube has an angle pointing downwards that forces the hose to go through from top . If it was a simple hole the second loop would not be needed. Since it is an hydraulic system , will those bends in the hose make the post to work in a bad way like it would be with a wire cable?Or maybe those bends will damage the hose itself?
    Thanks a lot for your help.

    p.s. I also though to buy the older hose, not the Connectamajig one, which has the final assembly a bit shorter, but the hose would go past the hole anyway.

    It doesnít look like that Stealth is made for your bike. With the wolftooth remote kit. It might shorten and work. Otherwise shorter dropper or different dropper
  • 09-27-2017
    niva1989
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Jingleman View Post
    Hello
    I tried to find a bit of help i another new thread but I had no luck, mybe here someone can help?
    I would like to buy a 2017 Dartmoor Hornet front 27,5 frame but I have a problem with my new stealth post. The post is a new Stealth 2017 150 mm 30,9 with 440mm of total length. The problem is that I insert the post in the frame at my pedal height , the Connectamajig assembly goes past the hole in the seat tube which for some reason I don't know, is not at the bottom of seat tube but in the middle of it.
    I thought about 2 possible solutions, please let me know if there is chance to make them work.
    IN the drawing 1 I would force the hose to make 2 loops inside the seat tube, the first loop would be at 180į and the upper loop would be less severe since it would let the hose exit the seat tube.
    I drawing 2 I would force the hose to go down the seat tube, pass through the hole that connects the bb shell and seat tube, go around the plastic cover of the Sram BB and then go up through the same hole and then up again like the previous drawing. To make things even more complicated, the hole in the seat tube has an angle pointing downwards that forces the hose to go through from top . If it was a simple hole the second loop would not be needed. Since it is an hydraulic system , will those bends in the hose make the post to work in a bad way like it would be with a wire cable?Or maybe those bends will damage the hose itself?
    Thanks a lot for your help.

    p.s. I also though to buy the older hose, not the Connectamajig one, which has the final assembly a bit shorter, but the hose would go past the hole anyway.

    My mates Santa Cruz Bronsan has a similar issue with a 380mm post. I tried looping the hose and the barb always ended up leaking. We ended up marking a lowest point he could push post down into frame and he had to live with that.
    Id look at a selling that post or see if a cable conversion will work.
    Another thing to do is to try and find out what dropper Dartmoor recommend.
  • 09-28-2017
    Marc Lindarets
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by gocat View Post
    It doesnít look like that Stealth is made for your bike. With the wolftooth remote kit. It might shorten and work. Otherwise shorter dropper or different dropper

    Depending on how much lower the port is than the post end it could still be a pretty aggressive bend to get a Sustain cable out of the frame. Posting on the STW forums (assuming that you're in the UK) looking for a swap to a shorter-travel (and so shorter insertion) Reverb might be your best bet. It's generally easier to find someone to trade up than the other way around.

    If you *do* go the Sustain route it might make sense to get one of those flexible V-brake noodles for the first section- that could take you to the port without taking from the Sustain the 6mm travel it needs at the base. It'd be better than just housing.

    Excellent drawings BTW- those really help!
  • 09-30-2017
    fitnessgeek
    Are the new Reverbs with 1x lever more reliable? I've had a few Reverbs over the years that had warranty issues, but I have a new frame with 34.9mm ST and would like 170+ mm drop so that limits my options drastically if I don't want to shim a different post. Would you go 170mm 34.9 1x Reverb or shim a different post like the 185mm Revive or 9point8?
  • 10-01-2017
    Lone Rager
    Latest issue Reverbs are the most reliable so far and much improved over earlier models, irrespective of which remote you get with it.
  • 10-01-2017
    fitnessgeek
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Lone Rager View Post
    Latest issue Reverbs are the most reliable so far and much improved over earlier models, irrespective of which remote you get with it.

    good to know...thanks!
  • 10-01-2017
    Christopher Robin
    I just recently picked up a 1x Reverb remote. I considered the Wolftooth one but my LBS had one in stock and I never really minded the Reverb or its plunger remote. It's just weird the 1x remove is as big as my brake lever! Went for a ride today and it worked like a champ. I have an A2 Reverb that's been working well... I guess I'm lucky. I bought it used and developed that half-inch sag last year. I rebuilt it myself and it's been solid ever since.
  • 10-12-2017
    almazing
    I have one on my Mega 290 and it started having vertical play after 2 weeks. At first it was only 2-3mm and now itís 5-6mm. Bled the line and still sagging. I have to raise the post up to the amount it sags.

    Iíve read online that this is a warranty issue or something that warrants a full rebuilt. I donít exactly have the time to go back and forth with SRAM only to have the new one do the same thing.

    So Iím cutting my losses and getting a Bontrager Line Dropper. Itís served me well on my Fuel EX and itís user serviceable. Due to its design, itíll never sag. And it costs 240$ and comes with a remote.

    The REVERB is a piece of crap.
  • 10-12-2017
    Haggis
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by almazing View Post
    I have one on my Mega 290 and it started having vertical play after 2 weeks. At first it was only 2-3mm and now itís 5-6mm. Bled the line and still sagging. I have to raise the post up to the amount it sags.

    Iíve read online that this is a warranty issue or something that warrants a full rebuilt. I donít exactly have the time to go back and forth with SRAM only to have the new one do the same thing.

    So Iím cutting my losses and getting a Bontrager Line Dropper. Itís served me well on my Fuel EX and itís user serviceable. Due to its design, itíll never sag. And it costs 240$ and comes with a remote.

    The REVERB is a piece of crap.

    Says you. Iíve bought five of them, one of which required a rebuild after a years work. All still in service, working well. Once you understand the mechanism they are easy enough to work on and very reliable
  • 10-14-2017
    Scotth72
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by almazing View Post
    I have one on my Mega 290 and it started having vertical play after 2 weeks. At first it was only 2-3mm and now itís 5-6mm. Bled the line and still sagging. I have to raise the post up to the amount it sags.

    Iíve read online that this is a warranty issue or something that warrants a full rebuilt. I donít exactly have the time to go back and forth with SRAM only to have the new one do the same thing.

    So Iím cutting my losses and getting a Bontrager Line Dropper. Itís served me well on my Fuel EX and itís user serviceable. Due to its design, itíll never sag. And it costs 240$ and comes with a remote.

    The REVERB is a piece of crap.

    Bleeding the remote is futile. The post has a separate hydraulic circuit, which has failed. The remote has nothing to do with it.
    I can rebuild a Reverb in less than half an hour with less than $20 in parts, and it functions perfectly for longer than the recommended service interval. It might not be the dropper for you, but I wouldn't call it a piece of crap.
  • 10-14-2017
    almazing
    Maybe I was too harsh on it. It worked wonderfully when it wasnít faulty. What annoys me about it is that itís a needlessly complicated component that seemingly requires more service and rebuilds than my suspension. And the fact that SRAM knows it has issues but hasnít really done anything to fix it. Iíve had the thing for 2 weeks and itís sagging noticeably. I bled it completely, let it sit for a few hours and then pumped it back up to 250 and nothing.

    Now youíre telling me it needs to be rebuilt?!? Okay I get that. But just because some people learn this thing inside and out only to rebuild it every couple of months doesnít mean itís OK. In fact, it should just work. It shouldnít start failing after 2 weeks of use brand new.

    Just because you can rebuild one in 30 minutes doesnít change the fact that the design is flawed and prone to problems. And thatís what I have issue with.

    What makes the Reverb that much better than other dropper posts? And why do people keep buying them only to eventually rebuild them months or even weeks after their first use?
  • 10-14-2017
    Doug
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by almazing View Post
    What makes the Reverb that much better than other dropper posts? And why do people keep buying them only to eventually rebuild them months or even weeks after their first use?

    They aren't better, just familiar. People probably prefer the devil they know vs the one they don't.

    When someone comes out with one that works well, is reliable, and easy to maintain...only then with SRAM/RS and others step up their game.
  • 10-14-2017
    Haggis
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by almazing View Post
    Maybe I was too harsh on it. It worked wonderfully when it wasnít faulty. What annoys me about it is that itís a needlessly complicated component that seemingly requires more service and rebuilds than my suspension. And the fact that SRAM knows it has issues but hasnít really done anything to fix it. Iíve had the thing for 2 weeks and itís sagging noticeably. I bled it completely, let it sit for a few hours and then pumped it back up to 250 and nothing.

    Now youíre telling me it needs to be rebuilt?!? Okay I get that. But just because some people learn this thing inside and out only to rebuild it every couple of months doesnít mean itís OK. In fact, it should just work. It shouldnít start failing after 2 weeks of use brand new.

    Just because you can rebuild one in 30 minutes doesnít change the fact that the design is flawed and prone to problems. And thatís what I have issue with.

    What makes the Reverb that much better than other dropper posts? And why do people keep buying them only to eventually rebuild them months or even weeks after their first use?

    I like them because, in my experience, they are extremely reliable and RS have gone to the effort of making spares and manuals available. Try servicing your Fox Transfer, Lev or 9.8 using stock spares and literature [emoji882][emoji948]
  • 10-14-2017
    almazing
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Haggis View Post
    I like them because, in my experience, they are extremely reliable and RS have gone to the effort of making spares and manuals available. Try servicing your Fox Transfer, Lev or 9.8 using stock spares and literature [emoji882][emoji948]

    Or I can service my Bontrager Line Dropper with tools I already have and replace the internal air cartridge if it fails. Itís literally the easiest dropper post to service. Literature in a different language or no literature needed. And it just works. Sure it doesnít have the Ďprestigeí of the Rockshox branding. But itís inexpensive and much more reliable than most droppers out there.

    https://www.mtb-news.de/news/2016/06...sattelstuetze/

    Open up, lubricate, reassemble, and ride. Simple. Easy. No problems.
  • 10-14-2017
    DethWshBkr
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by almazing View Post
    Maybe I was too harsh on it. It worked wonderfully when it wasnít faulty. What annoys me about it is that itís a needlessly complicated component that seemingly requires more service and rebuilds than my suspension. And the fact that SRAM knows it has issues but hasnít really done anything to fix it. Iíve had the thing for 2 weeks and itís sagging noticeably. I bled it completely, let it sit for a few hours and then pumped it back up to 250 and nothing.

    Now youíre telling me it needs to be rebuilt?!? Okay I get that. But just because some people learn this thing inside and out only to rebuild it every couple of months doesnít mean itís OK. In fact, it should just work. It shouldnít start failing after 2 weeks of use brand new.

    Just because you can rebuild one in 30 minutes doesnít change the fact that the design is flawed and prone to problems. And thatís what I have issue with.

    What makes the Reverb that much better than other dropper posts? And why do people keep buying them only to eventually rebuild them months or even weeks after their first use?



    I had one, rebuilt it 4 times before sending it back to Rockshox. It was replaced.
    Then my new bike came with a Reverb. It sagged from the day I brought it home. Rebuilt that one 6 times over 5-6 months.

    Always the same failure. Sealhead o-ring popping out. Finally, I started using an o-ring from the hardware store. Been good for the past year an a half except for two failures to extend, which required a remote bleed. Thankfully, my post is far enough into the frame, that when it gets stuck down I can just lift the whole post up and complete a ride.


    My Transfer on my other bike has been flawless for the year and a half I've owned it.
  • 10-15-2017
    TheRed
    Can anybody tell me how to work out what year a 2nd hand Reverb is please?