Page 28 of 51 FirstFirst ... 1824252627282930313238 ... LastLast
Results 1,351 to 1,400 of 2517
  1. #1351
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    51
    One more question , im now aware the 125 mm range is more suited to the taller rider,

    But What is the significant difference between that one and the 100mm , at what point does a rider become more suited to one or the other ? if you get my drift .

    Im probably considered fairly average , 5 11 and ride a 19 inch bike .

    Thanks

  2. #1352
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Calhoun's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    1,973
    Make two measurements of your current seatpost:

    Climbing height
    Descending height

    Subtract one from the other and decide.
    "Mi amor Nuevo Miércoles!"

    -cabra cadabra

  3. #1353
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    44
    If you like to fully lower your seat for terranical downhill sections to keep from getting bucked off the bike, then you'll want the most adjustability /capacity to lower your seat.

    Just check that the seat does not rise higher then your maximum riding height. With 5" of adjust, plus around 3 inches of minimum lowest position ability, you'll probably need at least 8 inches of post exposed from the bike frame to the seat rails to use a 125mm adjust system. Otherwise you'll want the 100mm.

    Cheers,

  4. #1354
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    161
    I'm in the market for a dropper post, and I read in a few places that the Reverb was the way to go. I will be honest though...you guys are scaring me.

    Are dropper posts in general just that unreliable?

    Anyway, I have a rumblefish elite on order with SLX shifters and brakes. Would that setup allow for the Right hand button upside down on the left side?

  5. #1355
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    51
    OK...... deepest apologies for being a bit slow , this is all new to me, just want to make sure Ive got this right, but the way I see it the 100mm may be the safer bet ,

    My current seated position at normal riding height has around 210 mm of seat post exposed , If I lower that by 100 mm, Im pretty sure im low enough for the riding I do ,

    If I look at the 125mm option , and then look at the lowest possible setting of putting the seat down ( depending what that is exactly ) , and add on the 125mm , I may be cutting it fine for my normal 210mm riding height .

    Am I on the right track ?

    Cheers and thanks for all your help so far !!!

  6. #1356
    banned
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    1,101
    Question for the Rockshox owners out there - How long is the outer tube on the 420 and 380 models? I'm considering getting one but I'm worried that it will be too long at the bottom and interfere with the rear shock on my 07 SJ.

    -S

  7. #1357
    mtbr member
    Reputation: kragu's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    2,426
    Anyone got a fix for the post dropping about 10mm when fully extended when you put your weight on it? Checked air pressure, which is fine.

  8. #1358
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    550
    Have you tried doing a full bleed? That solved my issues.

  9. #1359
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    130
    Good evening, I've been a member for many years and havn't needed to ask any questions as I've found them all before asking. So I'm calling on your knowledge people!

    I brought my Reverb earlier this year brand new and havn't needed to bleed it since fitting. On recent rides I've pulled up on the seat to lift the bike and found that its not locked in position and pulls up. I can't remember this happening from new.

    Could anyone advise me what to do, as i havn't found any fault finding information and reasons to bleed it other than guides.

    Many thanks, Elliott.

  10. #1360
    mtbr member
    Reputation: albertdc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    474
    Quote Originally Posted by Elliott_MBR View Post
    Good evening, I've been a member for many years and havn't needed to ask any questions as I've found them all before asking. So I'm calling on your knowledge people!

    I brought my Reverb earlier this year brand new and havn't needed to bleed it since fitting. On recent rides I've pulled up on the seat to lift the bike and found that its not locked in position and pulls up. I can't remember this happening from new.

    Could anyone advise me what to do, as i havn't found any fault finding information and reasons to bleed it other than guides.

    Many thanks, Elliott.

    Some people will tell you to bleed the post, but the manual itself says that it is normal behavior. I've had it happen to my post, seemingly randomly, over the summer. I don't know why sometimes it pulls up and other times it will lift the bike while retracted. As long as everything else works fine, don't worry about it since the instructions say it is normal.

    Sent from my Galaxy S3

  11. #1361
    mtbr member
    Reputation: kragu's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    2,426
    Quote Originally Posted by mikkosan View Post
    Have you tried doing a full bleed? That solved my issues.
    Tried a full bleed. Still does it.

  12. #1362
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    130
    Quote Originally Posted by albertdc View Post
    Some people will tell you to bleed the post, but the manual itself says that it is normal behavior. I've had it happen to my post, seemingly randomly, over the summer. I don't know why sometimes it pulls up and other times it will lift the bike while retracted. As long as everything else works fine, don't worry about it since the instructions say it is normal.

    Sent from my Galaxy S3
    Thanks for your reply. Wish i could remember if it did it from new.

    Anyone else's do this?

  13. #1363
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Betarad's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    790
    Mine did this on a few occasions, in fact I noticed that it did this a few weeks prior to the loss-of-air-pressure failure I recently went through. Still not sure if the two were related, I don't think so really. But it hasn't done it since my rebuild.

  14. #1364
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    161
    artscyclery has some 2012 reverbs for $199. They did have the one I need, but I don't have my bike yet, so I had to wait for trek to email me back with what length post I needed and by the time i got the email back the deal was gone

    Looks like they still have the 31.6 100mm x420 in a right hand remote still

  15. #1365
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    1,720
    Can anyone tell me what if any the differences are between a 2012 and a 2013 Reverb?

  16. #1366
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    34
    artscyclery has some 2012 reverbs for $199. They did have the one I need, but I don't have my bike yet, so I had to wait for trek to email me back with what length post I needed and by the time i got the email back the deal was gone

    Looks like they still have the 31.6 100mm x420 in a right hand remote still

    Just bought my second one from these guys. $200 for the reverb's functionality is a no brainer. And two reverbs is a must have if you're into all mtn and freeride on one rig.

    Merry christmas to me

  17. #1367
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    161
    I ended up buying a 100mm drop for the $200. Not exactly what I wanted, but hard to pass up at that price.

  18. #1368
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    1,636
    Well, my 2011 Reverb lasted a full season before it puked its internals. My 2012 warranty replacement lasted just as long.

    Any requests for photos as I tear it down and rebuild? I know further back in this thread I saw a decent write up on a rebuild. I know SRAM is too lazy to offer service doc's for this. Thanks SRAM!

  19. #1369
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    299
    SRAM finally posted the IFP bleed procedure. Their instructions are perfect, and it is very hard to get it right any other way.

    Reverb seatpost service - part 3 - YouTube

  20. #1370
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    1,636
    Fantastic! Thanks for that!

  21. #1371
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Betarad's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    790
    Quote Originally Posted by car_nut View Post
    Well, my 2011 Reverb lasted a full season before it puked its internals. My 2012 warranty replacement lasted just as long.

    Any requests for photos as I tear it down and rebuild? I know further back in this thread I saw a decent write up on a rebuild. I know SRAM is too lazy to offer service doc's for this. Thanks SRAM!
    Photos are always appreciated, especially of the failed bits.

  22. #1372
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    1
    Does anyone know what's new in the 2013 reverb versus the 2012? Is it worth paying the extra for the 2013 version?

  23. #1373
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Posts
    5
    hey everyone, i just recently tried to install a reverb stealth on my trek slash but have been unsuccessful. I was able to install the seat post, however, the bleeding has been a pain in the ass. Every time i attempt to pass fluid from the remote to the seat, i get leaks from the syringes! Anybody have any tips? I'm following the sram videos online. Worst case scenario ill take it to the lbs for install and bleed. Just wanted to see if anyone had any advice before dropping more $ for what seems to be an easy install.

  24. #1374
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    8,069
    Quote Originally Posted by onlyzenki View Post
    hey everyone, i just recently tried to install a reverb stealth on my trek slash but have been unsuccessful. I was able to install the seat post, however, the bleeding has been a pain in the ass. Every time i attempt to pass fluid from the remote to the seat, i get leaks from the syringes! Anybody have any tips? I'm following the sram videos online. Worst case scenario ill take it to the lbs for install and bleed. Just wanted to see if anyone had any advice before dropping more $ for what seems to be an easy install.
    Honestly, sounds like user error - what do you mean leaks?
    The vids are pretty straight forward.

  25. #1375
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Posts
    5
    im pretty sure it is user error. the syringes leak from what i believe is the red plastic that connects the tube. It leaks when i try to pass fluid back and forth from one syringe to the other while providing pressure on one and a vacuum on the other.

  26. #1376
    banned
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    1,101
    Quote Originally Posted by onlyzenki View Post
    im pretty sure it is user error. the syringes leak from what i believe is the red plastic that connects the tube. It leaks when i try to pass fluid back and forth from one syringe to the other while providing pressure on one and a vacuum on the other.
    Where on the red plastic adaptor does it leak from? The hose side or the syringe side? I use a zip tie on the hose side to tighten the hose against the red nipple, and make sure to screw in the adaptor properly into the syringe.

    -S

  27. #1377
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    289
    Scanned through the 50+ pages and wanted to run this consensus past you guys...

    For the 2012 125mm Reverb:

    If you'd like to ride gravity and want that seat to be as close to the frame as possible, grab the 380mm version.

    If you're taller or prefer very tall seat heights, grab the 420mm?

    Correct?

    ------------------

    Also any preference between left and right version?

  28. #1378
    banned
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    1,101
    Quote Originally Posted by GoingOffRoading View Post
    Scanned through the 50+ pages and wanted to run this consensus past you guys...

    For the 2012 125mm Reverb:

    If you'd like to ride gravity and want that seat to be as close to the frame as possible, grab the 380mm version.

    If you're taller or prefer very tall seat heights, grab the 420mm?

    Correct?

    ------------------

    Also any preference between left and right version?
    Yes, length is dependent on your frame and also your height. Some frames can't take a long seatpost and so you may need a shorter one. Then again, I think the 125mm/380mm Reverbs are being phased out - can't seem to find many of them for sale these days, except used or old models.

    Left and right will depend on your personal preference and what's on your bike currently. I have the fork lockout on my right so the other available spot for the seat remote is on the left.

    -S

  29. #1379
    Trail Ninja
    Reputation: Varaxis's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    4,604
    Quote Originally Posted by GoingOffRoading View Post
    Scanned through the 50+ pages and wanted to run this consensus past you guys...

    For the 2012 125mm Reverb:

    If you'd like to ride gravity and want that seat to be as close to the frame as possible, grab the 380mm version.

    If you're taller or prefer very tall seat heights, grab the 420mm?

    Correct?

    ------------------

    Also any preference between left and right version?
    Some people need that 420mm to make it safe to run in their frames, due to minimum insertion requirements (ex. for a person who has very long legs and likes small frames). People get 380mm otherwise, for weight savings and less waste. The bottom most part of the seat post should extend past the area where the top-tube meets the seat tube.

    Left/right only refers to which side/hand the remote is designed for. I have little doubt that the right side is most popular. If people don't run a front shifter, then they can run the "right-hand" remote upside-down, under the bar, on the left side, which I think is the best place.

    I'm currently on a 125mm 380mm right version (1st gen) that's been working fine ever since I got it. Only bled it once so far in over a year, when I trimmed the line. I don't leave it sitting unused for long periods of time, so it doesn't really have time to run into funny issues from simply sitting around.
    Last edited by Varaxis; 12-09-2012 at 04:06 PM.

  30. #1380
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    276
    Scanned all 50 pages and didn't find the exact issue I'm having - While extended fully the post has a slight (maybe 3mm) amount of free play where it moved up and down by hand making a 'clunking' noise. Aside from this issue it works fine, though when you sit on the seat it has that tiny amount of sink. Strange though as it does not appear to be the hydro system, which has been bleed a handful of times trying to remedy this.

    Thanks

  31. #1381
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    203
    Can anyone tell me the MAX SEAT HEIGHT for a 125mmx380mm Reverb?

    ...Post inserted to its MINIMUM insertion depth with full extension.

  32. #1382
    mtbr member
    Reputation: eurospek's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    5,456
    Just take away 80mm or 85mm from the total post length, as that's what the MIN insertion depth is for the Reverb, but IMO, I wouldn't run less than 100mm inserted into the frame.
    konahonzo

  33. #1383
    I'm with stupid
    Reputation: hitechredneck's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    4,940
    I need help, I just got a reverb as part of a trade deal. The only thing is that when he sent the post off to sram to get rebuilt he took the bolts out. Well in that amount of time the metal pieces that the bolts screw into have vanished. I am looking for some help on where I can find them or order new bolt set up. Anyone know anything?

  34. #1384
    mtbr member
    Reputation: eurospek's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    5,456
    ^ You need SRAM part number 11.6815.006.010 (Post Clamp Kit Reverb). Price is S21.95 and your LBS should be able to order it without a problem for you, took a week for mine to get here when I was trying to track down a creaking on my Reverb this season.

    Or buy online here.
    konahonzo

  35. #1385
    Trail Ninja
    Reputation: Varaxis's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    4,604
    Would a simple barrel nut from the hardware store not suffice?

  36. #1386
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    1
    I have had a problem develop on my reverb today. I went to use the bike and the rubber boot has sliped off at the remoted end and there is oil leaking from around the button shaft from the body of the remote. Any one have any ideas what the problem is?

  37. #1387
    mtbr member
    Reputation: kragu's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    2,426
    Got the Reverb back from warranty today. Repaired, not replaced, but it looks fine and feels great. Hopefully it holds up!

  38. #1388
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    46

    New question here. minimum exposed seatpost length for reverb

    I'm thinking about getting a dropper post, but my exposed seatpost length on my bike is pretty short. It is 6.5 inches from top of seat collar to the bottom of the post clamp head, about 7.25 inches from the top of the seat collar to the seat rails at the center the post. My current post is zero offset like the reverb. I probably can/will have my max seat height with the dropper about 0.5 inch higher than this current height. Will a reverb work for this w/out being too tall? Is the 100 mm travel version shorter from the 'collar' of the reverb post to the clamp head, or does it just move less? If it is shorter, would the 100 mm version be a better choice for my bike set-up, or could I still use the 125 mm version without having my fully extended seat height being too tall for me? Insertion depth into my frame is not an issue; my frame is a large w/a full lenght seat tube, and you can completely slam down a standard 400 mm seat post.

  39. #1389
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    161
    Sounds to me like the 100mm will be your best option. And yes the distance between the collars is less on the 100mm version.

  40. #1390
    mtbr member
    Reputation: albertdc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    474
    I measured 188mm (7.4 inches), from seat clamp to seat rail for the 125mm dropper post on my bike. So that will be pushing it for you depending on how much higher you truly are willing to put your seat. Personally, I think you will be OK - I couldn't believe how much higher I put my seat once I got the dropper.
    Assuming the design is otherwise the same, the 100mm version should put you at 163 mm (6.4 inches) which will of course leave you plenty of leeway. I guess it depends on availability and how aggressively you want to be able to lower your seat. I have probably never used my whole 120mm of drop, but certainly know people who have.

    Good luck. Hope my measurements don't steer you wrong!



    Sent from my Galaxy S3 using Tapatalk 2

  41. #1391
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    46
    Thanks for the info Albertdc! I think from your measurement, 125 version will be OK. I tried that height w/my current post and it felt good.

  42. #1392
    mtbr member
    Reputation: albertdc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    474
    You're welcome. I remeasured and got 190mm to the center of the seat rails.

    The dropper post and carbon wheels ("cheap Chinese rims" on Hope Pro II hubs) are the two best upgrades I've ever done on a bike. :thumbup:

    Sent from my Galaxy S3 using Tapatalk 2

  43. #1393
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    544
    Are the reverbs stealth released already? I'm planning to get a dropper post soon and still thinking what to buy and some friends have told me to just wait for the stealths as they are more durable/reliable than the previous models.any truth in this?

  44. #1394
    mtbr member
    Reputation: eurospek's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    5,456
    Gotta love SRAM's customer service. Not.

    Dropped of my 2012 Reverb at LBS to have sent for warranty last week and got a call back today. SRAM doesn't want to see my post at all. They can magically diagnose the problem it seems without evening touching it. My problem was that it sags in travel a few centimeters, started happening at the end of last season. Even after a full rebleed. I started riding in May, weekends only, and problem started in September. That's 5 months of riding, hardly a full season of hard riding for it to go broke so quickly.

    SRAM ran my serial number, no Reverbs from that production batch came back for warranty and said they aren't taking mine back either. WTF. They said like any other suspension product it requires maintenance, 50 hrs/6 months for basic rebuild (kit costs under $10) or 100 hrs/1 year for a full rebuild (kit costs under $50).

    All they offered was to send the basic rebuild kit to my LBS and that's it. LBS wants $50 to perform the service. I think I'll try my chances doing it myself first after watching a few vids, can't be rocket science.

    OR simply return the post to REI (original place of purchase), save myself about $100 (as I paid close to $350 for it), and buy a new Reverb for ± $250 and ride another year.
    konahonzo

  45. #1395
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    8,069
    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    Gotta love SRAM's customer service. Not.

    Dropped of my 2012 Reverb at LBS to have sent for warranty last week and got a call back today. SRAM doesn't want to see my post at all. They can magically diagnose the problem it seems without evening touching it. My problem was that it sags in travel a few centimeters, started happening at the end of last season. Even after a full rebleed. I started riding in May, weekends only, and problem started in September. That's 5 months of riding, hardly a full season of hard riding for it to go broke so quickly.

    SRAM ran my serial number, no Reverbs from that production batch came back for warranty and said they aren't taking mine back either. WTF. They said like any other suspension product it requires maintenance, 50 hrs/6 months for basic rebuild (kit costs under $10) or 100 hrs/1 year for a full rebuild (kit costs under $50).

    All they offered was to send the basic rebuild kit to my LBS and that's it. LBS wants $50 to perform the service. I think I'll try my chances doing it myself first after watching a few vids, can't be rocket science.

    OR simply return the post to REI (original place of purchase), save myself about $100 (as I paid close to $350 for it), and buy a new Reverb for ± $250 and ride another year.
    OK, that is a bummer. My experiences with SRAM have been just the opposite. I've had 4 reverbs replaced by them now with the most recent being a few months ago for the same issue you are having now.

    1. Use your LBS. You might talk to SRAM through the 800 number, but they won't deal with you.
    2. Be persistent and remain kind. I took SRAM up on their offer of the rebuild kit, but that didn't fully resolve the problem. When the LBS couldn't perform a full rebuild sucessfully, I wasn't charged and SRAM sent out a new post.

    SRAM is worlds above many in the bike industry in taking care of paying customers. I'm sure you can get this taken care of, just use your LBS for service and work through the official channels.

  46. #1396
    mtbr member
    Reputation: eurospek's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    5,456
    ^ So the basic rebuild kit didn't take care of your sagging problem? My LBS isn't exactly close (25 miles one way) plus I didn't buy it through them but REI (but they are definitely taking care of me by attempting this warranty). I already contacted REI but they are not expecting any Reverbs in what I need (420x31.6x125 R).

    And I did call SRAM after talking with my LBS, I asked under what circumstances will they physically take it back for warranty purposes, but the guy made it sound like 90% of all warranty repairs is handled by the LBS, they just send parts out, seems kinda lazy on their part. They diagnose the problem with the LBS tech, but the tech doesn't know any more than what I told him.

    I'll try the rebuild kit myself, if not, I'm simply going to return it to REI and pick up a new one somewhere else. I'm not going to waste my time driving back and forth to the LBS while they diagnose it over the phone. Or be out $50 on having the LBS rebuild it, only to have it still sag. What hurts the most is that I'm in Chicago daily, I can drop off my Reverb myself to them.
    konahonzo

  47. #1397
    mtbr member
    Reputation: bubba13's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    897
    Quote Originally Posted by CharacterZero View Post
    OK, that is a bummer. My experiences with SRAM have been just the opposite. I've had 4 reverbs replaced by them now with the most recent being a few months ago for the same issue you are having now.

    1. Use your LBS. You might talk to SRAM through the 800 number, but they won't deal with you.
    2. Be persistent and remain kind. I took SRAM up on their offer of the rebuild kit, but that didn't fully resolve the problem. When the LBS couldn't perform a full rebuild sucessfully, I wasn't charged and SRAM sent out a new post.

    SRAM is worlds above many in the bike industry in taking care of paying customers. I'm sure you can get this taken care of, just use your LBS for service and work through the official channels.
    Great customer service from SRAM also. I have had two warranty issues with Reverb posts and both times I was sent a new one. The first lasted almost one year and the second about six months. Post was purchased from local LBS and warrantied through them.

    I would be cautious about trying to rebuild the post yourself. Getting the end / valve off of the inner shaft is not as easy as it looks in the video with the soft jaw vise. Too bad SRAM did not design those parts to be dis-assembled with a couple of wrenches. The rebuild would be easy if that was the case.
    Portland Off Road Navagators

  48. #1398
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    8,069
    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    ^ So the basic rebuild kit didn't take care of your sagging problem? My LBS isn't exactly close (25 miles one way) plus I didn't buy it through them but REI (but they are definitely taking care of me by attempting this warranty). I already contacted REI but they are not expecting any Reverbs in what I need (420x31.6x125 R).

    And I did call SRAM after talking with my LBS, I asked under what circumstances will they physically take it back for warranty purposes, but the guy made it sound like 90% of all warranty repairs is handled by the LBS, they just send parts out, seems kinda lazy on their part. They diagnose the problem with the LBS tech, but the tech doesn't know any more than what I told him.

    I'll try the rebuild kit myself, if not, I'm simply going to return it to REI and pick up a new one somewhere else. I'm not going to waste my time driving back and forth to the LBS while they diagnose it over the phone. Or be out $50 on having the LBS rebuild it, only to have it still sag. What hurts the most is that I'm in Chicago daily, I can drop off my Reverb myself to them.
    I think they did the full rebuild kit, but I'm not sure.

    I wouldn't have had 4 reverbs already if the LBS could fix'm. I don't know of one that has been sucessfully fixed by the LBSs from my ride crew.

    Yeah, sag is unacceptable.

    Good luck!

  49. #1399
    mtbr member
    Reputation: eurospek's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    5,456
    Quote Originally Posted by bubba13 View Post

    I would be cautious about trying to rebuild the post yourself.
    You weren't kidding. Just finished watching the full rebuild 4 part video , lots and lots of o-rings. Looks doable but then again the farthest I've ever been in the suspension world is just new fluids or a simple brake bleed. Knowing myself, something would go wrong somewhere lol.

    Quote Originally Posted by CharacterZero View Post

    Good luck!
    Thanks, it just irks me to read people's experiences with SRAM have been the complete opposite of mine so far. Love my Reverb to death and will not ride without one now, but so far on the CS end (especially for what they are charging for the product), I'm left feeling a bit sour.

    IMO nothing compares to FOX CS service. You send in a fork for a creaking CSU, and you get it returned with a new CSU, complete service done on it, and brand new seals. But most importantly, no middle man to deal with.
    konahonzo

  50. #1400
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    1

    New question here. Stealth Hose Barb & Fitting Measurement?

    Have few questions for 150x430mm Stealth owners that I haven't been able to find despite searches - sorry if answered before. 30.9dia is ideal, but I'd guess the fitments are the same across both sizes.

    Can someone confirm how far out the hose connector & barb protector protrude from the bottom of the post?
    Am I right in assuming that they do not contribute to the 430mm length?
    What is the measurement from full extension rails to end of the hose barb?

    For context, I have an 09 Felt Compulsion with a funky interrupted seat tube, and the weld hole at the bottom would be perfect for a Stealth - but only if the fittings & hose barb are short enough to stay out of the way of the tube 'trapezoid' (for lack of a better term...). My 420mm Reverb suggests that I have ~20mm to play with tube-wise before bottoming out, so it's probably going to be a tight fit, if it's even possible. "2009.feltracing.com/09/images/catalog/xl/9057.png" shows the seat tube in question.

    Thanks in advance!
    fed

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •