RockShox Reverb Thread

Printable View

  • 02-18-2017
    foresterLV
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by BPH View Post
    Hey. Hoping for a little advice. I have read the whole thread and nothing matches my problem!

    My standard reverb has had very little use, is 6 month old and performs perfectly, EXCEPT....

    ...when the post is dropped for the first time, it won't drop smoothly. It's almost like it's stuck. It needs a small bump/wiggle to help it drop. Once that's done, it drops fine, and extends fine, then drops again absolutely fine, until it's been extended fully for about half an hour, and the issue repeats itself.

    Any ideas? It's only a niggling small problem, but certainly one that wasn't there at the beginning of its time!

    What happens if you adjust remote to a slowest setting? If its getting worse bleeding of the cable should help.

    Sent from my SM-G900F
  • 02-18-2017
    Lone Rager
    ^^^Yes. It's also possible to over-tighten the post clamp so it restricts movement of the post. Check the clamp torque. I believe the spec is 6.7 Nm (60 in-lb) max.
  • 02-18-2017
    foresterLV
    My reverb is much better after partial cleanup/regrease (was not able to remove lower cup, so no way to get into upper dust cover, need vice jaws thing for 9.5mm tube). No single "got stuck" situation on today ride.
    I guess I will get vice jaws and will do dropper cleanup/regrease from time to time as shown in the video below. Then it will be time to do "service kit" thing.
    https://youtu.be/NfFRlpCpU3s


    Sent from my SM-G900F
  • 02-18-2017
    007
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Lone Rager View Post
    ^^^Yes. It's also possible to over-tighten the post clamp so it restricts movement of the post. Check the clamp torque. I believe the spec is 6.7 Nm (60 in-lb) max.

    That might be spec, but on my bike, anything over 3nm and it binds.
  • 02-18-2017
    Lone Rager
    ^^^ Yeah. It can be clamp dependent. Not saying this is your issues, but if a slot in the seatpost lines up with the slot in the clamp, it can really dig into the post. Arranging them so they don't line up can help. This is usually the default arrangement for use with carbon seatpost. Sometime they're 180 degrees apart but in some cases the seat tube may have two slots (Trek, for one) and the clamp slot is equidistant between the two.
  • 02-24-2017
    galicano
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by BPH View Post
    Hey. Hoping for a little advice. I have read the whole thread and nothing matches my problem!

    My standard reverb has had very little use, is 6 month old and performs perfectly, EXCEPT....

    ...when the post is dropped for the first time, it won't drop smoothly. It's almost like it's stuck. It needs a small bump/wiggle to help it drop. Once that's done, it drops fine, and extends fine, then drops again absolutely fine, until it's been extended fully for about half an hour, and the issue repeats itself.

    Any ideas? It's only a niggling small problem, but certainly one that wasn't there at the beginning of its time!

    it might be that you have an issue with the brass inserts since you wiggle your post before being able to put the post down. better make an appointment with a service or you can do it on your own with the right tools and instruction from sram via youtube.
  • 02-26-2017
    Christopher Robin
    Question about the process to rebuild the Reverb stealth:

    Pulled it apart last night for the first time to reset the IFP, oil and all that because I was sagging. I had to make my own IFP oil height gauge using one of my remote bleed syringes and a piece of aquarium air hosing. With my Reverb, my height it supposed to be 186.5mm. Fine no problem. But what I found is I couldn't get the tubing far down enough in the shaft to get the full 186.5. I was off by 4 or 5mm. I double checked and this is because the diameter of the hosing is too wide to fit through the blue 'thing' that presses into the IFP tube. I'll have to source a slimmer tube. I reassembled anyway just because I was at my wit's end. At the end of the day, the post is solid and seems to work fine....not trail tested yet.

    So how critical is that oil height? SRAM makes it look like it has to be on the money exactly.
  • 02-26-2017
    niva1989
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Christopher Robin View Post
    Question about the process to rebuild the Reverb stealth:

    Pulled it apart last night for the first time to reset the IFP, oil and all that because I was sagging. I had to make my own IFP oil height gauge using one of my remote bleed syringes and a piece of aquarium air hosing. With my Reverb, my height it supposed to be 186.5mm. Fine no problem. But what I found is I couldn't get the tubing far down enough in the shaft to get the full 186.5. I was off by 4 or 5mm. I double checked and this is because the diameter of the hosing is too wide to fit through the blue 'thing' that presses into the IFP tube. I'll have to source a slimmer tube. I reassembled anyway just because I was at my wit's end. At the end of the day, the post is solid and seems to work fine....not trail tested yet.

    So how critical is that oil height? SRAM makes it look like it has to be on the money exactly.

    Ive got a proper oil height gauge and it only ever picks up small dregs of oil. The first few times I actually poured some oil in so the gauge had something to suck up but found it wasn't necessary. I don't think it needs to be that accurate. The best test is a working post.
  • 02-27-2017
    Christopher Robin
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by niva1989 View Post
    Ive got a proper oil height gauge and it only ever picks up small dregs of oil. The first few times I actually poured some oil in so the gauge had something to suck up but found it wasn't necessary. I don't think it needs to be that accurate. The best test is a working post.

    Perfect good to know. I didn't get a chance to try it out on the trail but the post seems to working fine. Thanks.
  • 03-01-2017
    seamarsh
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by BPH View Post
    Hey. Hoping for a little advice. I have read the whole thread and nothing matches my problem!

    My standard reverb has had very little use, is 6 month old and performs perfectly, EXCEPT....

    ...when the post is dropped for the first time, it won't drop smoothly. It's almost like it's stuck. It needs a small bump/wiggle to help it drop. Once that's done, it drops fine, and extends fine, then drops again absolutely fine, until it's been extended fully for about half an hour, and the issue repeats itself.

    Any ideas? It's only a niggling small problem, but certainly one that wasn't there at the beginning of its time!

    Did you find a solution?

    I have the same issue, ill check the post collar to see if that helps.

    new , 4 months old reverb 170mm
  • 03-05-2017
    D3NN15M
    Will there be issues when a bike with a Reverb seatpost is stored upside down (hanging)? Thanks!
  • 03-05-2017
    niva1989
    My bike spends a fair bit of time upside down but resting on the seat. It's good for your fork bushings and seals and I've never had it cause issue with the reverb.
  • 03-06-2017
    D3NN15M
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by niva1989 View Post
    My bike spends a fair bit of time upside down but resting on the seat. It's good for your fork bushings and seals and I've never had it cause issue with the reverb.

    Good to hear, thank you!
  • 03-07-2017
    TeamRWB
    duplicate
  • 03-07-2017
    TeamRWB
    So reading through here, it seems the sag is present even in the *Updated* model. I have the opportunity to get a good deal on one, cheaper than I can get any of the other External offerings out. Should I hold out, and Get a Fox or Thomson or will this be a reliable option. I noticed mention of using a RH remote vs a LH, and I may of missed an explanation of why skimming through here, so what is the benefit from this? I also read about replacing the u-cup seal with an o-ring, where can the o-ring needed be purchased from? And did anyone replace the Teflon bushing with a polymer made version of it, besides the guy in this blog, The Seatpost Whisperer | Blue Liquid Labs

    Granted I wont do any of the Maint related aspects unless its needed or warranty expired. Just educating myself.
  • 03-07-2017
    Christopher Robin
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by TeamRWB View Post
    So reading through here, it seems the sag is present even in the *Updated* model. I have the opportunity to get a good deal on one, cheaper than I can get any of the other External offerings out. Should I hold out, and Get a Fox or Thomson or will this be a reliable option. I noticed mention of using a RH remote vs a LH, and I may of missed an explanation of why skimming through here, so what is the benefit from this? I also read about replacing the u-cup seal with an o-ring, where can the o-ring needed be purchased from? And did anyone replace the Teflon bushing with a polymer made version of it, besides the guy in this blog, The Seatpost Whisperer | Blue Liquid Labs

    Granted I wont do any of the Maint related aspects unless its needed or warranty expired. Just educating myself.

    Don't know anything about your seal question (which I'll look into as well since I'm always looking for things to make the Reverb more reliable), but using the RH remote vs the LH is personal preference: Using the RH remote on the left side places the plunger below the handlebar so it's easier to access with your thumb. This is also providing you don't have a front derailleur.

    Edit. After reading that article, I'd also like to know what size that seal is.
  • 03-10-2017
    superkermit
    I am selling my bike and thinking I should take the reverb with me and put in the giant one I am buying from the 2nd hand giant bike.

    Good idea?

    giant - https://www.giant-bicycles.com/us/trance-27dot5-1-2014

    nukeproof - http://forums.mtbr.com/all-mountain/...e-1034996.html

    I like the reverb and it looks like a better seatdropper.

    Will they swap out?
  • 03-23-2017
    RS VR6
    1 Attachment(s)
  • 03-23-2017
    spyghost
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by RS VR6 View Post

    you beat me to it :p

    in any case, i can't see it in sram site nor google results
  • 03-23-2017
    RS VR6
    Could make an appearance at Sea Otter. That's where SRAM typically shows off new stuff.
  • 03-23-2017
    TeamRWB
    Please have an external option!

    Sent from the Beer Cloud
  • 03-24-2017
    spyghost
    b1 still has external just up to 125 only
  • 03-24-2017
    T3mppu
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Christopher Robin View Post
    Edit. After reading that article, I'd also like to know what size that seal is.

    I think that the O-ring is the same size as in externally routed reverb (3.5x9mm see RockShox Reverb Thread post ).

    I just rebuilt one stealth and replaced the U-cup with O-ring.
    The stealth U-cup was 10x15x4 and replacing O-ring 9.12x3.53 (couldn't source the 3.5x9).
    Unfortunately I don't currently have a frame with stealth routing (planning on drilling my 2011 specialized enduro), but compressing by hand, it appears to be working just fine. More testing when I get it into frame.


    Quote:

    Originally Posted by TeamRWB View Post
    Please have an external option!

    Sent from the Beer Cloud

    I don't see why it wouldn't work with externally routed as the current remotes in stealth and external are identical per revision (see rockshox spare parts manual 2017_rockshox_spc_rev_b.pdf , there are separate remotes for A1 and A2, but not for stealth/non-stealth)

    The above image is from Vital MTB and there is some more info on the comments.
    For example, the product page apparently exists, but is not allowed to access: https://www.sram.com/rockshox/products/reverb-1x-remote

    I am mainly waiting for the price, as with the current remote price I rather buy another DeHy kit to convert the post to wire controlled than expensive but different hydraulic.

    Maybe the new construction will prevent the wear and leaking of the piston. (current design has only plastic bushing and there is usually sideload when pressing the remote)
  • 03-24-2017
    Mithrandir
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by RS VR6 View Post

    I want one!! The original actuator is the thing I dislike the most on the Reverbs.
  • 03-24-2017
    IndecentExposure
    I have successfully fixed the sag! I tore the entire seatpost apart and rebuilt it. I did use new IFP's, but was careful to make sure the oil was at the proper level. Thanks for everyone on this thread for all the helpful suggestions. We'll see how long this lasts!

    A few notes:
    My original IFP was pretty far down the tube. enough where the zip tie's wouldn't work. I ended up using 2 old spokes to 'hook' the IFP and used pliers to pull the thing out. Worked well.

    It would help to have the specific vice clamps (10mm), but I used the yellow rubber ones and they worked 'okay'.

    Once again, thank you to SRAM for making great videos. I literally just followed along.

    IE
  • 03-27-2017
    adcampo
    I'm switching from a left hand lever to a right hand lever mounted underneath on the left hand side. I've read I can do this without bleeding. Is that correct? Also, I'm assuming the new lever and cable will require trimming?
  • 03-28-2017
    niva1989
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by adcampo View Post
    I'm switching from a left hand lever to a right hand lever mounted underneath on the left hand side. I've read I can do this without bleeding. Is that correct? Also, I'm assuming the new lever and cable will require trimming?

    I think you will def have to bleed it especially if you are trimming the hose as you might need to use a new barb. I always bleed as it takes 5-10mins at the most.
  • 03-28-2017
    arnea
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by niva1989 View Post
    I think you will def have to bleed it especially if you are trimming the hose as you might need to use a new barb. I always bleed as it takes 5-10mins at the most.

    There is now barb in Reverb hose. You just screw the lever into the hose. If you are switching left hand lever to right hand lever on the left side just use the existing hose. If the new lever comes mounted to hose and filled with oil you might be able to avoid bleeding, but it's not sure.
  • 03-28-2017
    arnea
    1 Attachment(s)
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by T3mppu View Post
    For example, the product page apparently exists, but is not allowed to access: https://www.sram.com/rockshox/products/reverb-1x-remote

    I am mainly waiting for the price, as with the current remote price I rather buy another DeHy kit to convert the post to wire controlled than expensive but different hydraulic.

    Google has cached the German page of the new reverb. Not much information, just picture from different angle. It comes with Bleeding Edge technology. Interesting how it works with Shimano brakes.

    Price is important. e-thirteen new mechanical dropper post looks much better upgrade at the moment.
  • 03-28-2017
    niva1989
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by arnea View Post
    There is now barb in Reverb hose. You just screw the lever into the hose. If you are switching left hand lever to right hand lever on the left side just use the existing hose. If the new lever comes mounted to hose and filled with oil you might be able to avoid bleeding, but it's not sure.

    There is a barb in the lever. It unscrews from the lever. Rebuild kit comes with a new one too. Only way lever will come with a hose and full of oil is with a new post attached to the other end.

    I don't know why people try to avoid bleeding. It's very easy to do. Much easier than bleeding brakes. If you own a reverb chances are you will have to bleed it at some stage and the bleed kit is cheap.
  • 03-28-2017
    arnea
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by niva1989 View Post
    There is a barb in the lever. It unscrews from the lever. Rebuild kit comes with a new one too. Only way lever will come with a hose and full of oil is with a new post attached to the other end.

    I don't know why people try to avoid bleeding. It's very easy to do. Much easier than bleeding brakes. If you own a reverb chances are you will have to bleed it at some stage and the bleed kit is cheap.

    Ok, I've never changed the barb, always unthreaded the hose from the barb and then threaded it back after I installed the hose in the frame. I got the Connectamajig version of the post and it is possible to remove the hose from post without loosing oil and needing the bleed. I don't remember how it was packaged - IIRC it was competely assembled and filled with oil.

    And I agree, bleeding is easy.
  • 03-28-2017
    niva1989
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by arnea View Post
    Ok, I've never changed the barb, always unthreaded the hose from the barb and then threaded it back after I installed the hose in the frame. I got the Connectamajig version of the post and it is possible to remove the hose from post without loosing oil and needing the bleed. I don't remember how it was packaged - IIRC it was competely assembled and filled with oil.

    And I agree, bleeding is easy.

    I think it should be fine if you cut the end of the hose a little and have a fresh hose end to screw into. A friend of mine did this and didn't have any leaks but some air did get in when he unscrewed the lever. He may have bumped the plunger though. I had to re bleed it for him once fitted to the bike.
  • 03-28-2017
    spyghost
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by arnea View Post
    Google has cached the German page of the new reverb. Not much information, just picture from different angle. It comes with Bleeding Edge technology. Interesting how it works with Shimano brakes.

    Price is important. e-thirteen new mechanical dropper post looks much better upgrade at the moment.

    the only thing that keeps me on reverb is the external cable. if e13 were to have external, i'd to for it.
  • 03-28-2017
    arnea
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by niva1989 View Post
    I think it should be fine if you cut the end of the hose a little and have a fresh hose end to screw into. A friend of mine did this and didn't have any leaks but some air did get in when he unscrewed the lever. He may have bumped the plunger though. I had to re bleed it for him once fitted to the bike.

    I've unthreaded and threaded the lever for 8-9 times now without cutting the hose and never had any problem with leakage.
  • 03-28-2017
    arnea
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by spyghost View Post
    the only thing that keeps me on reverb is the external cable. if e13 were to have external, i'd to for it.

    Check out Features | Absenkbare Sattelstütze moveLOC | Vecnum GmbH - also mechanical, lightweight, with external cable.
  • 03-31-2017
    IndecentExposure
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by spyghost View Post
    q on vise blocks for air shaft...

    those who have rebuilt a reverb, did you use sram's brass vise block? i find the price too steep at around $45 on the average.


    compared to these which costs only at around $10-15. i find these more suitable 'price-wise' that is...



    which among the 3 alternatives above is safe for the air shaft of the reverb?

    yes i know that it has to do with the clamping force, but of course material choice also has to do with it... plastic (yellow), nylon (black), or aluminum (silver)

    I tried it with the Yellow rubber ones. They don't work so well.
  • 03-31-2017
    spyghost
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by IndecentExposure View Post
    I tried it with the Yellow rubber ones. They don't work so well.

    which one works well?
  • 03-31-2017
    Isildur
    I've found that the Aluminium Vice Blocks works better than the plastic and rubber ones. I've serviced many posts and never had a drama.
  • 04-01-2017
    Haggis
    Ditto


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • 04-02-2017
    niva1989
    Don't mess about just buy the brass RS ones. They are the only type that grip properly and won't damage the shaft. It can also be used on other RS components like Pike/Lyrik damper and air shafts. If you damage a shaft it will cost you way more than $45. The RS shaft clamp Has much more surface area contact than those other ones you pictured. I also have good quality Park soft jaws and they don't hold the 10mm shaft with enough grip. $45 will seem very cheap when you get into trouble.
  • 04-04-2017
    spyghost
    RockShox Reverb Thread
  • 04-04-2017
    birdman86
    Nice that'll be day one for me for sure. That button was just so awkward, $90 ain't cheap though.
  • 04-04-2017
    RS VR6
    I think it'll be 90 bucks well spent...I mean its a lever I'll be using all the time. I really didn't like the plunger on my Reverbs. I'm going to get one.
  • 04-04-2017
    piperpilot964
    Bout time! Already have the Novyparts remote which is simple and tougher. Glad to see there is another option should i trash mine in a crash.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • 04-11-2017
    RS VR6
    Has anyone tried ordering one? I went to my immediate LBS and said its not showing up on his vendor sites.
  • 04-11-2017
    gocat
    Call Sram. They are easy to get a hold of.
  • 04-11-2017
    JAGI410
    Probably won't see them out for another month at least.
  • 04-13-2017
    arnea
    How much Reverb fluid is required for rebuild?
  • 04-13-2017
    dreys
    I recently completed a rebuild of Reverb Stealth (A2), followed the directions to the letter from SRAM video.

    The post no longer sags, however, way more force is required to press it down, and the post is very slow to go up. This is the case for slow speed settings (on the remote), as well as fast speed setting.

    I verified PSI is at 250, and all lines and remote have been bled properly. What could be the issue? Did I miss something during the rebuild?
  • 04-13-2017
    gocat
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by dreys View Post
    I recently completed a rebuild of Reverb Stealth (A2), followed the directions to the letter from SRAM video.

    The post no longer sags, however, way more force is required to press it down, and the post is very slow to go up. This is the case for slow speed settings (on the remote), as well as fast speed setting.

    I verified PSI is at 250, and all lines and remote have been bled properly. What could be the issue? Did I miss something during the rebuild?

    Over tightened seat post clamp?
  • 04-15-2017
    dreys
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by DZANINOVICH1 View Post
    I am looking for the part pictured in this screenshot. It attaches to the inner shaft, where the poppet is inserted.
    Attachment 1040960

    It is labeled as "seal head" but the only "seal head" I can find is the "inner seal head".

    Can anybody help me out?
    Thank You!

    Did you end up finding that part or part #?
  • 04-15-2017
    dreys
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by gocat View Post
    Over tightened seat post clamp?

    I think I fixed, the issue was the poppet that had it seal misaligned. That made it difficult to push the fluid through, and as a result very slow action.
  • 04-15-2017
    arnea
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by arnea View Post
    How much Reverb fluid is required for rebuild?

    To answer my own question: 125mm Stealth needed ~1/3 of the small bottle.

    I have new question: do the new blue IFPs have break-in time?

    After the full service - new o-rings, brass keys, blue IFP, dust seal, lower bushing - the post is very stiff: no play in saddle, but it also takes more force to compress the post, it has sometimes trouble to fully rise and it squeaks.

    I used same size of the brass keys and the upper sealhead also moved easily when I installed it, the IFP on the other hand had very tight fit and lots of stiction: it was hard to press it down with the IFP height tool.

    Is this common? Or perhaps I did something wrong?
  • 04-17-2017
    arnea
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by dreys View Post
    I think I fixed, the issue was the poppet that had it seal misaligned. That made it difficult to push the fluid through, and as a result very slow action.

    What seal was misaligned and how? I have a bit similar problem and would like to check the poppet valve seals.
  • 04-23-2017
    arnea
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by arnea View Post
    I have new question: do the new blue IFPs have break-in time?

    Looks like they do. After couple of rides the post started to move smoothly.
  • 04-30-2017
    spyghost
    while cleaning the bike, i noticed that this has come lose


    i'm not due for rebuild yet. do i simply have to tighten this?
  • 05-04-2017
    SonomaBiker
    2 Attachment(s)
    1x installed...
    Upgraded from standard remote to 1x...

    Going to ride tonight and can give my thoughts. I think the ergonomics could have been better... lever is too far from the bar and too big of a swing arm for my taste, but it's pretty nice. Very light pressure to activate. I'm spoiled by the Wolftooth 1x though, which is 100% perfect for me. The weight difference is actually about 40-45g with the non-MMX clamp. You'll save 11g more if you use existing MMX.

    Attachment 1135430Attachment 1135431
  • 05-04-2017
    SonomaBiker
    Back from my ride. It's a winner! Besides an intermittent delay in the seat dropping once in a while, which may have been even before the 1x, I didn't once notice anything negative about the 1x. It worked perfectly and smoothly. No problems with ergonomics in actual riding. The layout really does mimic the SRAM 1x shifters. I have XX1 and it has almost exactly the same lever size/shape/position... it's just on the left side.

    Took about 30-40min to setup... but I'm slow and anal. I did find out that the connectamajig doesn't work as well as they say with keeping air out. I only disconnected mine twice and it had a lot of air in it... making for a very slow return speed with my old remote. After the full system bleed it's really speedy now.

    If you have $100 to blow on your bike, it's not a bad upgrade, I'm glad I did it.
  • 05-04-2017
    mikkosan
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by SonomaBiker View Post
    Back from my ride. It's a winner! Besides an intermittent delay in the seat dropping once in a while, which may have been even before the 1x, I didn't once notice anything negative about the 1x. It worked perfectly and smoothly. No problems with ergonomics in actual riding. The layout really does mimic the SRAM 1x shifters. I have XX1 and it has almost exactly the same lever size/shape/position... it's just on the left side.

    Took about 30-40min to setup... but I'm slow and anal. I did find out that the connectamajig doesn't work as well as they say with keeping air out. I only disconnected mine twice and it had a lot of air in it... making for a very slow return speed with my old remote. After the full system bleed it's really speedy now.

    If you have $100 to blow on your bike, it's not a bad upgrade, I'm glad I did it.

    Sweet! Thanks for the ride report. Where'd you purchase the remote?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • 05-05-2017
    SonomaBiker
    First I tried Worldwide, but they had just run out, so ended up going with Universal. Had it in a few days. I think I got the last one they had unfortunately.
  • 05-05-2017
    RS VR6
    If you really want it...Bike Components has them...but they are in Germany. Price with shipping is fairly close to what you'll pay domestically.

    https://www.bike-components.de/en/Ro...f-2013-p56259/

    I'll just wait for World Wide to get them in. I can just drive down and pick it up.
  • 05-16-2017
    Gray_Ghost
    LBS says Rockshox aren't rebuilding these and they have to send to a "vendor" to be rebuilt . Is there any other way as I have one in warranty that needs to be replaced and one out of warranty that I need to have rebuilt on my dime.
  • 05-17-2017
    BPH
    First things first, many apologies for the unacceptable delay in replying in thanks to the people who commented in reply to my question. I'll take each one in turn after I have pasted my question again, for reference as it was months ago :)

    Quote:

    Originally Posted by BPH View Post
    Hey. Hoping for a little advice. I have read the whole thread and nothing matches my problem!

    My standard reverb has had very little use, is 6 month old and performs perfectly, EXCEPT....

    ...when the post is dropped for the first time, it won't drop smoothly. It's almost like it's stuck. It needs a small bump/wiggle to help it drop. Once that's done, it drops fine, and extends fine, then drops again absolutely fine, until it's been extended fully for about half an hour, and the issue repeats itself.

    Any ideas? It's only a niggling small problem, but certainly one that wasn't there at the beginning of its time!

    Quote:

    Originally Posted by foresterLV View Post
    What happens if you adjust remote to a slowest setting? If its getting worse bleeding of the cable should help.

    Sent from my SM-G900F

    It had no effect on the problem, but thanks for your input :thumbsup:

    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Lone Rager View Post
    It's possible to over-tighten the post clamp so it restricts movement of the post. Check the clamp torque. I believe the spec is 6.7 Nm (60 in-lb) max.

    The seat post clamp was not over tightened - thank you for your input mate :thumbsup:

    Quote:

    Originally Posted by galicano View Post
    it might be that you have an issue with the brass inserts since you wiggle your post before being able to put the post down. better make an appointment with a service or you can do it on your own with the right tools and instruction from sram via youtube.

    I'll bear this in mind should a bleed not sort my issue - thank you :thumbsup:

    Quote:

    Originally Posted by seamarsh View Post
    Did you find a solution?

    I have the same issue, ill check the post collar to see if that helps.

    new , 4 months old reverb 170mm

    Not yet mate, buy I am yet to try anything! Did you have any success?

    I am yet to try a bleed, I know it's the first thing to try. I do not have much faith, as the post works flawlessly except for the strange issue I am experiencing.

    Thanks again for the replies and sorry it has taken me so long to thank and reply!
  • 05-17-2017
    arnea
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by BPH View Post
    I am yet to try a bleed, I know it's the first thing to try. I do not have much faith, as the post works flawlessly except for the strange issue I am experiencing.

    My post behaves same way. It takes some extra force to compress it for first time. I did full service (because some o-ring failed and it did not operate anymore) and after service I got same behaviour. Not sure what causes this.
  • 05-18-2017
    BPH
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by arnea View Post
    My post behaves same way. It takes some extra force to compress it for first time. I did full service (because some o-ring failed and it did not operate anymore) and after service I got same behaviour. Not sure what causes this.

    So the issue you had (and I still have) still remained after a full service?

    It must just be one of those things then. I semi hoped a bleed would sort this out, and it still might as I haven't bled it yet. I just don't hold much faith in a bleed solving the issue, as except for this isssue, the post performs flawlessly.

    I'm going to start looking at alternative droppers - any recommendations for both high performance and low/easy maintenance?
  • 05-18-2017
    arnea
    Yep, still there after full service. I think that the problem is that some seals or bushings are dry and cause extra friction.
  • 05-18-2017
    BPH
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by arnea View Post
    Yep, still there after full service. I think that the problem is that some seals or bushings are dry and cause extra friction.

    Are seals and bushings not replaced or lubricated when the post is being serviced?
  • 05-18-2017
    arnea
    They are. My thinking was that when the post is not used, the seals and bushings dry up or there is some other kind of stiction between stanchion and them. This is similar to forks - when not in use it takes some force to compress the fork, then it starts moving smoothly.