Page 2 of 29 FirstFirst 12345612 ... LastLast
Results 101 to 200 of 2895
  1. #101
    How do I do that?
    Reputation: Tuff Gong's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    561
    Quote Originally Posted by highaltitude
    Thanks a lot, this was easy and obvious really. This is what the insides look like:
    Crap, what are the chances of being able to source that replacement plunger? There is obviously a strong reason RS has an illustration not to place the bike upside down in case it rests on the plunger but that just further reinforces concerns over the remotes weakness in the event of a crash

    I need to def mount the remote on the bottom somehow....

    Good luck with getting your post back in service High.

  2. #102
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    1,833
    Quote Originally Posted by Tuff Gong
    I need to def mount the remote on the bottom somehow....
    Agreed. Unclekittykillers pics are giving me hope. For the number of times I use the front derailleur, I think I'm willing to dremel off half of the shift lever if it means tucking the remote underneath.

    Of course, this is all assuming I can guarantee getting a right hand remote when I order the post. Has anyone received a left hand remote or is it coming only with the RH?

  3. #103
    I'm more of a dog person
    Reputation: unclekittykiller's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    864
    i actually ordered a lh remote from my lbs and i got the rh version. seems like most are getting the rh. car nut, I hardly use my fd as well, only on real steep climbs, otherwise i stand up and mash. my lh shifter isn't exactly where i like it anymore, but i'll use the reverb remote more than the fd anyhow, so a little bit of shifter displacement doesn't bother me when i have the remote right where it like it.

    i would imagine that placing the remote under the bars would be even easier if used in conjunction with some avid xx or xo brakes using the remote as the lever clamp (upside down). i would think it would leave more room on the bars to place the shifters wherever you like.
    Last edited by unclekittykiller; 11-09-2010 at 01:37 PM.

  4. #104
    I'm more of a dog person
    Reputation: unclekittykiller's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    864
    Quote Originally Posted by highaltitude
    Thanks a lot, this was easy and obvious really. This is what the insides look like:
    any idea what the purpose of that thing that looks like a staple is? i noticed it on my remote but couldn't figure out it's purpose. i can only imagine it holds something together, but what?
    Last edited by unclekittykiller; 11-09-2010 at 01:59 PM.

  5. #105
    How do I do that?
    Reputation: Tuff Gong's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    561
    Quote Originally Posted by unclekittykiller
    any idea what the purpose of that thing that looks like a staple is? i noticed it my remote but couldn't figure out it's purpose. i can only imagine it holds something together, but what?
    I'd guess it secures the remote body side of the rubber boot You could see the indent it left on the boot....if I'm even close to being correct.

    edit:Wait a minute? Does it keep the plunger from coming completely out of the body? Does it secure both the plunger and the boot to the body?


    Well, I just tried working the RH remote on the left side with my X7 shifter and Juicy 7 levers. I'm not too crazy about the shifters position but if I grind away the corner of the downshift lever, I could swing the shifter closer down to normal.

    I'll have a couple of rides before I attempt to grind away...


  6. #106
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    922
    Quote Originally Posted by mountaindavis
    are you folks running this shock using friction paste? If so, did it come with it?
    The friction paste is not included with the Reverb.

    I'm using carbon installation compound. I suspect the necessity of the paste is directly related to how snug the post to seat tube fit is on your bike.

    I did not originally use the paste and did not encounter any slippage when clamped well under the max torque. The paste just allows me the option of using a bit less torque.

    This is the stuff I sourced:
    http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...n+Compoun.aspx

  7. #107
    I'm more of a dog person
    Reputation: unclekittykiller's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    864
    Quote Originally Posted by Tuff Gong
    I'd guess it secures the remote body side of the rubber boot You could see the indent it left on the boot....if I'm even close to being correct.

    edit:Wait a minute? Does it keep the plunger from coming completely out of the body? Does it secure both the plunger and the boot to the body?


    Well, I just tried working the RH remote on the left side with my X7 shifter and Juicy 7 levers. I'm not too crazy about the shifters position but if I grind away the corner of the downshift lever, I could swing the shifter closer down to normal.

    I'll have a couple of rides before I attempt to grind away...
    your guess about the staple sounds pretty logical, i wouldn't doubt if thats correct.

    your shifter looks to be almost too uncomfortable tweaked that much..do you think it would work better if you put the shifter to the left of the brake lever and angled the remote more forward?

  8. #108
    mtbr member
    Reputation: in the trees's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    1,953
    Quote Originally Posted by Tuff Gong
    Crap, what are the chances of being able to source that replacement plunger?
    Here - http://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...s.php?id=37132

  9. #109
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    922
    Quote Originally Posted by highaltitude
    Thanks a lot, this was easy and obvious really. This is what the insides look like:
    highaltitude;

    tough luck...

    Let us know what path you took (contact vendor, contact Rockshox) to get the new part...

    Here's a list of the part numbers (sourced from Spare Parts List on Rockshox website) http://www.sram.com/en/service/rocks...D=3&subcatID=1

    Part numbers for the remote start on page 6, I believe the XLoc actuator is detailed on page 28; piece #18 (p/n 11.4315.014.020).
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails RockShox Reverb Thread-capture3.jpg  

    Last edited by MarkHL; 11-10-2010 at 11:20 AM.

  10. #110
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    68
    Quote Originally Posted by Tuff Gong
    Crap, what are the chances of being able to source that replacement plunger?
    I found this as a source for replacement parts for the lever, check pic 7. I was debating whether to replace the whole thing for $65 or just the piston kit for $31. After I managed to remove the broken piston head, I just went for the cheaper option.

    http://www.outsideoutfitters.com/p-1...kit-parts.aspx

    I didn't see much point in contacting Sram, and I bought the post from overseas - and there's zero chance the local importer will have spares.

    Quote Originally Posted by Tuff Gong
    I'd guess it secures the remote body side of the rubber boot You could see the indent it left on the boot....if I'm even close to being correct.

    edit:Wait a minute? Does it keep the plunger from coming completely out of the body? Does it secure both the plunger and the boot to the body?
    The little staple locks the hard plastic end of the rubber boot in place, there are little indents, I also seem to have cracked this part. When the lever is extended, the piston head must butt up against the plastic end of the boot.

  11. #111
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    922

    XLoc Piston Source

    Quote Originally Posted by highaltitude
    I found this as a source for replacement parts for the lever, check pic 7.


    http://www.outsideoutfitters.com/p-1...kit-parts.aspx

    The silver piece (circled in red) seems a bit different from the parts you took apart, however since the piston is all you need, you should be set. Thanks for the information.

    Here's an addtional source: http://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...s.php?id=37132
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    Last edited by MarkHL; 11-09-2010 at 04:25 PM.

  12. #112
    CHOP!
    Reputation: MartinsMental's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    243
    Quote Originally Posted by highrustler
    Just received this from SRAM tech support. This will be on their website within a week or so
    Official Reverb Bleed instructions are up.

    http://www.sram.com/en/service/rocks...D=3&subcatID=1
    It's not where it's made but how it's made.

  13. #113
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    68
    Quote Originally Posted by MarkHL
    The silver piece (circled in red) seems a bit different from the parts you took apart, however since the piston is all you need, you should be set. Thanks for the information.

    Here's an addtional source: http://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...s.php?id=37132
    Good point, I hadn't noticed that part. It looks like a spacer, so hopefully it will be easy to remove by taking off the button and the boot.

  14. #114
    BMJ
    BMJ is offline
    "42 lbs and climbing!"
    Reputation: BMJ's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    1,025
    You might need to check that part on Universals website as a viable replacement. The part number doesn't match the Reverb part number. All the pics I've seen of the X-Loc remote for the forks look like a shorter throw than the Reverb. Maybe the silver bushing is just a travel limiter.

    Hmmmm.

  15. #115
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mountaindavis's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    221
    Looking at the SRAM's instructions for bleeding, it shows clamping the bike in a stand using the lower part of the seatpost (not the part that extends up) which is good as I was concerned how I was going to clamp my bike once my seatpost arrives (tomorrow! Although we are getting snow right now :-( ). I thought I read in this post that we couldn't clamp it at all, but they clearly show it is alright to do so...

  16. #116
    Threading freely...
    Reputation: polymathic's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    319
    To add to the thread.... My Reverb wasn't working out of the box. Didn't lower or rise. First, I bled it at the remote with one syringe. Finally it went down, but not up. Stuck a second syringe in the seatpost bleed hole and went from syringe to syringe. Now the Reverb works perfectly. Lots of bubbles in there prevented from working at all. Very smooth action now. Thanks all for sharing your experience here. If it wasn't for this thread, I'd have returned the seatpost thinking it was defective.

  17. #117
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    536
    I am trying to see if I can run a RH remote on the left side of my bars, with a front shifter (xtr), possibly by mounting it well inboard of the shifter. Could someone currently running a Reverb post the distance from the handlebar to the outside of the remote body. Aka. how much free space needed perpendicular to the bar to clear the remote? That would be awesome. Thanks!

  18. #118
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Jamie_MTB's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    838
    Does anybody know how the sram 2011 x0 brake attaches to the reverb lever?

  19. #119
    I'm more of a dog person
    Reputation: unclekittykiller's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    864
    Quote Originally Posted by toons101
    Does anybody know how the sram 2011 x0 brake attaches to the reverb lever?
    you can use the reverb remote in place of the lever clamp.

  20. #120
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    7
    Quote Originally Posted by Huck Pitueee
    Thanks.I'm gonna call them this morning.

    Check out Tree Fort Bikes. They are running a sale until 11-19 for $235 and free shipping I just ordered mine. Plenty in stock. Get in there and get one for cheap

    380mm:
    http://www.treefortbikes.com/product...djustable.html

    420mm:
    http://www.treefortbikes.com/product...djustable.html

  21. #121
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    563
    got my reverb today. first impression is dissapointing.

    It is binding half way through the travel and not coming all the way up. hopefully it will break in and be more smooth. I also plan to bleed it.

    play in the seat is a hair more than my 6 month old kindshock. not enough to detect while riding and certainly lots less than the joplin.

    by far my biggest gripe is that using the right remote underbars on the left bar really doesnt work very well, even with no shifter on that side. Im using XT brakes mounted inboard for 1 finger braking and the lever is too close to the grips (interferes and bangs your thumb) if mounted outside the brakes and waaay too far away if mounted inside the brakes. maybe it works better if you have the angled MC of the avids...... (but no way im switching to those crappy brakes)

    syringes, hydro fluid and some of the cable snaps are nice bonuses. (cable snaps only work if you have another cable to clip it to though)

  22. #122
    Threading freely...
    Reputation: polymathic's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    319
    Evan, once you bleed it the action will smooth and perfect. It wasn't even working in my case until a serious bleed. It does have more play than I'd wish, though. That's the only issue I have so far. But it's very small play....

  23. #123
    mtbr member
    Reputation: hani1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    237

    Concern about full extention length

    So a fully extended reverb may be about 1/4 to 1/2 in too long for me. Is this a major concern? Has any one else had this problem?

  24. #124
    No, that's not phonetic
    Reputation: tscheezy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    14,363
    Quote Originally Posted by Evan55
    It is binding half way through the travel and not coming all the way up.
    That is a classic symptom of the seatpost collar being too snug. Try to loosen it up by just a hair at at time until you get it to work smoothly. If you need to loosen it so much that the post ends up slipping on rides, well... that's SRAM's bad for making the outer wall so thin on the Reverb.

  25. #125
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    922
    Quote Originally Posted by hani1
    So a fully extended reverb may be about 1/4 to 1/2 in too long for me. Is this a major concern? Has any one else had this problem?
    Probably a good thing; with the post fully extended, the telescoping section will not have as much support from the tube and is more vulnerable to damage due external forces placed on it.

    My personal opinion is that prolonged riding with it fully extended will hasten wear on the tight tolerances due to the additional leverage and reduced support between the mating surfaces.
    My reason for this line of thinking is, I can feel a slight fore and aft play in the seat tube with it fully extended that I cannot detect in any other inserted range.

    After a bit of practice, adjusting the post to your preferred "top" height will be no harder than any other seat height adjustment.

  26. #126
    Threading freely...
    Reputation: polymathic's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    319
    Quote Originally Posted by MarkHL
    Probably a good thing; with the post fully extended, the telescoping section will not have as much support from the tube and is more vulnerable to damage due external forces placed on it.

    My personal opinion is that prolonged riding with it fully extended will hasten wear on the tight tolerances due to the additional leverage and reduced support between the mating surfaces.
    My reason for this line of thinking is, I can feel a slight fore and aft play in the seat tube with it fully extended that I cannot detect in any other inserted range.

    After a bit of practice, adjusting the post to your preferred "top" height will be no harder than any other seat height adjustment.
    Mark, I've been thinking along those lines, too. But it is annoying to have to find that right height. It's hard to get an accurate position to 3/4 of an inch, especially when riding on bumpy trails. First I had it set up so it never was fully extended, but then it was getting on my nerves.....

  27. #127
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    417
    Has anyone been brave enough to dis-assemble their post yet?

    Would it be possible to add a spacer to the internals to restrict the upward travel (similar to the spacers in Reba for example)? If so, that would be an awesome way to restrict it to that last 1/2 - 1/4 inch...

  28. #128
    I'm more of a dog person
    Reputation: unclekittykiller's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    864
    Quote Originally Posted by Isildur
    Would it be possible to add a spacer to the internals to restrict the upward travel (similar to the spacers in Reba for example)? If so, that would be an awesome way to restrict it to that last 1/2 - 1/4 inch...
    wondering if this would be something that Push may be able to offer since they apparently will be doing mods on the Reverb...

  29. #129
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    417
    Hmmm, I would be interested to hear the results of this, as I'm one of the people who will need something like this offered. I would prefer to not have to worry about max seat height, and just have the max extension the correct height right away...

  30. #130
    BMJ
    BMJ is offline
    "42 lbs and climbing!"
    Reputation: BMJ's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    1,025
    My buddy is running my old i900 post on his Specialized with an interupted seat tube design. He can't put the post down into the frame far enough to avoid this problem so he installed a cable tether to the post to stop it at only 3.5" instead of the full 5". Seems to be working so far. Might be a solution for you as well.

  31. #131
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    58
    Hey guys, coming from my Joplin(no issues btw great post!) does this post really keep a certain position no matter what? For example, my joplin, if it was lowered, would rise up if you pulled on the seat. Will the Reverb do the same thing? Is it soooo much better that i have to have it?

  32. #132
    Threading freely...
    Reputation: polymathic's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    319
    Once properly bled, the Reverb definitely stays in place. (At least mine.)

  33. #133
    BMJ
    BMJ is offline
    "42 lbs and climbing!"
    Reputation: BMJ's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    1,025
    You can yank it up if you lift the bike too quickly but it sucks back down to it's original position. The great thing is that it doesn't need to cycled to reset the air from the oil.

  34. #134
    Threading freely...
    Reputation: polymathic's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    319
    Quote Originally Posted by BMJ
    You can yank it up if you lift the bike too quickly but it sucks back down to it's original position. The great thing is that it doesn't need to cycled to reset the air from the oil.
    Mine only did that when there was air in the line. I suspect yours still has air in it, and that's what's causing this. After a good 2 syringe bleed, there is no up or down motion at all on mine.

  35. #135
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    68
    Someone PM'd me with the same problem I had, the flimsy lever snapped in a crash. Here's how to get the xloc lever apart:

    1) Undo the clamp bolt and remove xloc lever from bars (but leave the hydro line attached)
    2) Underneath the lever is a steel staple. Gently lever this out with a flat blade screwdriver. The remains of piston assembly (piston/boot/button) will now pull out of the lever body, but if you snapped the piston head off like I did, it will still be stuck inside.
    3) Take a bleed syringe and fill with a little fluid, attach to the bleed valve on the xloc. Hold the lever wrapped in a rag in one hand, and apply some pressure on the syringe with the other hand. The broken piston head should pop out.

    My replacement piston is still in the mail, I'll post on replacing it when the thing arrives.

  36. #136
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    563
    well, unfortunately bleeding mine at the lever didnt work. it doesnt come up or go down.

    I need to try using the 2 syringe bleed procedure. Is it just pushing fluid from 1 syringe to the other?

  37. #137
    Threading freely...
    Reputation: polymathic's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    319
    Evan, when I did a single syringe I had the same issue; the post stopped working completely. I hooked a syringe on each end with some fluid in them, and basically did the back and forth from syringe to syringe. There was a lot of air left in there. Finally when no a bubble remained, I was set. Don't forget to use the directions, where you are supposed to press on the lever, the push the syringes in (and repeat many times). Good luck.

  38. #138
    mtbr member
    Reputation: dubinjs's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    57

    need HELP with bleeding my Reverb

    I am having a hell of a time gettting my Reverb set up. I have tried bleeding this thing forever now. It seems like the fluid isnt even going in. should the saringe empty out? If so, it definately isnt. I cant even get the post to go down at all. I depress the remote and put tons of pressure down on the seat and nothing. I am getting very aggrivated. I have a big ride in the morning and really want to get this working. how do you do this two saringe bleed there is talk of?

  39. #139
    Threading freely...
    Reputation: polymathic's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    319
    dubinjs, did you read the instructions that came with the Reverb? Or what was written here in this thread? The bleeding has more to do with air bubble removal that injecting more fluids. I knew nothing about bleeding a seatpost or anything, but from reading this thread and the manual I had no issues.

  40. #140
    mtbr member
    Reputation: dubinjs's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    57
    Yes. Thats why I cant figure out why its not working. All the air seems to be out and there is zero movement in the post at all. I followed the instructions that came with it to the T. I just disconnected the line from the seat end and pumped fluid through from the remote end and it was full of fluid. absolutely no air. I then reconected it and bled whatever may have gottten into the line from that. Still, Zero movement in the post.

  41. #141
    Threading freely...
    Reputation: polymathic's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    319
    Are you also pumping the lever between bleeds?

  42. #142
    mtbr member
    Reputation: dubinjs's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    57
    Yes. I finally got it. Thanks to one of the other post that stated where the other bleed hole was on the stem. I used the two syringes and there must if been trapped air in the post itself that wasn't showing itself before. All is good and finished. Thanks! Looking forward to tryin it out in the morning.

  43. #143
    mtbr member
    Reputation: q2xltrgt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    100
    Quote Originally Posted by dubinjs
    Yes. I finally got it. Thanks to one of the other post that stated where the other bleed hole was on the stem. I used the two syringes and there must if been trapped air in the post itself that wasn't showing itself before. All is good and finished. Thanks! Looking forward to tryin it out in the morning.


    Some people's kids!

  44. #144
    mtbr member
    Reputation: dubinjs's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    57
    What's that supposed to mean?

  45. #145
    Don't be a sheep
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    3,383
    Wow, can't believe how many people have to bleed theirs. Mine worked perfect right out of the box and after shortening the line twice without re-bleeding it still worked perfect?
    "Do not touch the trim"

  46. #146
    Threading freely...
    Reputation: polymathic's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    319
    Quote Originally Posted by q2xltrgt
    Some people's kids!
    I think that's supposed to mean you hadn't read the thread carefully, and you weren't using the two syringe method, and that based on your posts that's not the impression you gave, and as a result time was spent trying to help you when in fact you needed to read.

    Anyhow, glad to hear you figured it out and it's working fine now! Enjoy!

  47. #147
    mtbr member
    Reputation: q2xltrgt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    100
    Quote Originally Posted by polymathic
    I think that's supposed to mean you hadn't read the thread carefully, and you weren't using the two syringe method, and that based on your posts that's not the impression you gave, and as a result time was spent trying to help you when in fact you needed to read.

    Anyhow, glad to hear you figured it out and it's working fine now! Enjoy!

    Precisely. That could not have been written better.

    Thanks Polymathic.

  48. #148
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mountaindavis's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    221
    Mine worked good out of the box, but I bled the remote and doubled the speed to the point I ended up turning the adjuster to slow it down. Love my post. Does have a bit of play, but I don't notice when riding.

  49. #149
    mtbr member
    Reputation: dubinjs's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    57
    sorry if I inconvenienced any of you. I was reading through the post and followed the incomplete directions that Rockshox prints and sends with the seat. There are a lot of post about this item, but only a couple that actually stated how to use the two syringe method and i found only one that stated where the second screw was. Thanks for the help.
    This is how i ended up securing the line without any interference at all. Works great
    !,
    http://lh5.ggpht.com/_NM8dyLzbMug/TO...-48-49_522.jpg

  50. #150
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Jamie_MTB's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    838
    Quote Originally Posted by highaltitude
    Someone PM'd me with the same problem I had, the flimsy lever snapped in a crash. Here's how to get the xloc lever apart:

    1) Undo the clamp bolt and remove xloc lever from bars (but leave the hydro line attached)
    2) Underneath the lever is a steel staple. Gently lever this out with a flat blade screwdriver. The remains of piston assembly (piston/boot/button) will now pull out of the lever body, but if you snapped the piston head off like I did, it will still be stuck inside.
    3) Take a bleed syringe and fill with a little fluid, attach to the bleed valve on the xloc. Hold the lever wrapped in a rag in one hand, and apply some pressure on the syringe with the other hand. The broken piston head should pop out.

    My replacement piston is still in the mail, I'll post on replacing it when the thing arrives.
    highaltitude I fell off yesterday and snapped the lever off (also broke a finger!)!

    Let me know how you get on.


    Reverb
    Last edited by Jamie_MTB; 11-23-2010 at 12:30 AM.

  51. #151
    Threading freely...
    Reputation: polymathic's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    319
    Sorry about your finger, Toons. Hope you recover soon. I watched the video of your tumble... how did that happen so soon? Did you hit your front brake or something?

  52. #152
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Jamie_MTB's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    838
    Quote Originally Posted by polymathic
    Sorry about your finger, Toons. Hope you recover soon. I watched the video of your tumble... how did that happen so soon? Did you hit your front brake or something?
    The front wheel got stuck in a pot hole and I didn't have enough momentum to get over it!

    BTW did you laugh? My mates have been ripping the **** out of me

  53. #153
    Threading freely...
    Reputation: polymathic's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    319
    I would have laughed had you not broken your finger. But, what made me smile was your cursing all the way down.

  54. #154
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    403
    where is the cheapest place to get one as of now, wife is going to buy me one for x-mas..... like to find the best deal out there...

    thanks for your time...

  55. #155
    Lev
    Lev is offline
    You Guys Riding?
    Reputation: Lev's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    616
    Just got my Reverb woot woot! Planning to install tomorrow. Hoping it goes painlessly. One thing I noticed right out of the box is that when I push the lever in and try to compress the post, it's not budging much. I realize that many folks here have had to re-bleed their posts, but mine's not even moving. Not too concerned right now, since I haven't even put it on. But just thought it was worth mentioning. Maybe this has happened to others?

    Anyone else throw one on a Knolly Endorphin? Going to be looking for routing options...

  56. #156
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    579
    Universal Cycles with VIP15 code (buy something else for $5+) = $250.75 with free shipping

  57. #157
    mtbr member
    Reputation: ScottW's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,235
    Ventanarama (Mtn high cyclery) has them in the classified for $235 shipped. Plus he seems like a good guy, I've bought stuff from him in the past.

    http://classifieds.mtbr.com/showprod...t=56808&cat=18

  58. #158
    mtbr member
    Reputation: 2w4s's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    1,148
    Loving mine so far, I can't believe I waited this long to get a drop post. I moved my remote to the left side, I had to modify the FD shifter a bit but it makes a big difference.



    dremeled FD Shifter



    Opposite side



    A little trail shot, I used the Reverb a lot more than I thought I would.

    nothing witty here...

  59. #159
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    413
    I got mine all installed used it today for the first time! this thing is bad ass!!!!!

    sorry for the crappy cell shots



  60. #160
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    1

    Zero offset mount

    Just wondering if anybody has used one of these seat posts where their original seat post was an offset style? My bike is a Stump Jumper that comes with an offset seatpost, doesnt look like the Reverb has this option, like the Joplin

  61. #161
    Threading freely...
    Reputation: polymathic's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    319
    Mine was an offset post (Rockhopper). Truth is, the offset was a problem for me, and I already had my seat all the way forward. While it's not offset, you still have the ability to change your seat position some.

  62. #162
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    12

    spongy feel

    so after 3 weeks of riding the reverb it developed a spongy feel, its now more of a suspension seatpost regardless where it is in its 5 inch travel, dont know what the cause i did lift up the saddle while in its down position but it did return to its normal height, so i called rs and spoke to customer service, no problem just let the retailer know and will send a replacement and could do the swap once it arrives to avoid having no seatpost/reverb at all (its amazing once you have an adjustable seatpost that you dont want to ride without it ) called up pricepoint and kudos to shawn !! swung by pricepoint and he replaced it with a new one (its still less than 30 days) those little service that they do to customers make me want to buy more from them !!

    so has anyone experienced this problem?, could it be air getting into the system, if so how??

    again kudo to ricky/rockshow and shawn/pricepoint

  63. #163
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mountaindavis's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    221
    Did you try bleeding it again after it developed this spongy feel?

  64. #164
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    922
    Quote Originally Posted by mountaindavis
    Did you try bleeding it again after it developed this spongy feel?
    Probably wouldn't help this condition since the hydraulic actuator is external (closed system) to the actual post hydraulics.

  65. #165
    mtbr member
    Reputation: BaeckerX1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    2,242
    Quote Originally Posted by 08350
    those little service that they do to customers make me want to buy more from them !!
    So you're saying you want to spend more money because they thoroughly serviced you?

    What services did they do to you?
    Last edited by BaeckerX1; 12-02-2010 at 01:51 PM.
    Gotta get up to get down.
    LMB

  66. #166
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    12

    no need for bleed

    did not even try to bleed, post still traveled as fast as originally,

    well i'd rather spend my money on a retailer that i know would help me out than someone who just wants a fast buck btw off topic, the best customer service would belong to REI no doubt !

  67. #167
    Come on, dare me!
    Reputation: Jerome's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    511
    Quote Originally Posted by mtb_oz
    Just wondering if anybody has used one of these seat posts where their original seat post was an offset style? My bike is a Stump Jumper that comes with an offset seatpost, doesnt look like the Reverb has this option, like the Joplin
    That's why I chose the KSi900 (which has offset). Works wonderfully - loved it so much that I got another one for my other bike... it says something! Anyway if you ride technical trails, I'd say go with the remote - I got the lever ones (for saving a little bit of weight) and things can be a little sketchy when you have to drop the seat very quickly (anticipation is key).

  68. #168
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    563
    well, I got a bad one. Even after bleeding the whole thing with 2 syringes it still wont go down.

    Sort of goes down and up on the slowest setting, but suuuper slow on the way up and gets stuck half way through.

    now to deal with RMA / warranty. horray.

    I guess I should have just bought another kindshock....

  69. #169
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    413
    Quote Originally Posted by Evan55
    well, I got a bad one. Even after bleeding the whole thing with 2 syringes it still wont go down.

    Sort of goes down and up on the slowest setting, but suuuper slow on the way up and gets stuck half way through.

    now to deal with RMA / warranty. horray.

    I guess I should have just bought another kindshock....

    I had this same problem when i shortened up my cable.. here is what i did i had my buddy keep lightly pushing pushing the syring on on remote side while i put the bleed screw back in to the post side to prevent air getting sucked back in.. after i did the whole push and pull the bubbles out of the post side.. then i finished the bleeding procedure on the remote side and very thing worked great!

  70. #170
    Threading freely...
    Reputation: polymathic's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    319
    +1

    That's what I did too. Had my wife helping.... and it was fine after.

  71. #171
    j-dub
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    3
    My post is new, just installed and completely locked. Will someone repost the link to the double bleed?

  72. #172
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mountaindavis's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    221
    How much play is normal? When fully extended, my seat can move maybe 1/8"-1/4" fore and aft. This may be normal, I don't know, as it is my first adjustable post. I don't notice it riding and it doesn't really bother me in any tangible way but I would feel a lot better knowing if that is just what adjustable seatposts have or if I should have it looked at. Still quite new. LOVE its functionality...

  73. #173
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    413
    Quote Originally Posted by jwbender
    My post is new, just installed and completely locked. Will someone repost the link to the double bleed?
    http://www.sram.com/en/service/rocks...D=3&subcatID=1

    offical bleed directions from Sram

    as for the 2 syring bleed its pretty much just like bleeding brakes..

    back the speed control on remote to the slowest setting, attach your bleeding syring to the bleed port on the post found on the right side of the post (make sure syring has small amount of 2.5w oil) then attach other syring to the bleed port on the remote (fill approximately 1/2 full with 2.5w oil) on remote side pull the syring back to draw any air out.. then release repeat this a few times to appears to be free of air, also press the remote button a few times to make sure there is no air in the piston, now go ahead and gently draw back on the post side of syring then gently push on the remote side pushing oil through the line. after you pushed most of the oil through (leave small amount on remote side to keep air from bleeding back into system and to finish bleeding of remote) draw back on post side syring making sure it is free of air repeat this step a few times.. then once it is free of air. gently apply pressure to the remote side syring so that a small amount of oil is weeping out replace post side bleed screw, now back to remote side syring pull/push on syring to make sure system is free of air repeat a few times also press remote button a few times while pushing and pulling on the syring. before you remove syring from bleed port give it a nice push to make sure the system has enough oil then remove syring from remote side putting a few drops of oil on port then replace bleed port screw and you should be on your way!

    that should do it for you i hope i didn't leave anything out!


    P.S

    I left my remote button mount a tad loose so if i fall or crash it has some room to move instead of breaking. its still tight enough that is doesn't move on any crazy terrain or when i press it.

  74. #174
    Don't be a sheep
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    3,383
    Quote Originally Posted by mountaindavis
    How much play is normal? When fully extended, my seat can move maybe 1/8"-1/4" fore and aft. This may be normal, I don't know, as it is my first adjustable post. I don't notice it riding and it doesn't really bother me in any tangible way but I would feel a lot better knowing if that is just what adjustable seatposts have or if I should have it looked at. Still quite new. LOVE its functionality...
    My Reverb has 1/16-1/8" of fore/aft play also. The Kind Shocks are the same way.
    "Do not touch the trim"

  75. #175
    mtbr member
    Reputation: nixgame22's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Posts
    528
    I've had the Specialized Command Post and also the KS i900r post. I've now put around 40 miles on my Reverb, and absolutely love it. Out of the box, mine was slow. So, I bled it and shortened the cable. It wasn't really a hard process at all, much easier than bleeding brakes. The fact that it came with a bleed-kit, and cable-guide also rocks.
    My KS post was never perfect, ever. Very inconsistant.
    The Reverb is the adjustable post that I've been waiting for, and the epitome of how one should work. The button is soft and smooth, the post works EVERY time throughout the ride. It did require a little service out of the box, but honestly most disc brakes do also. The bleeding process was fairly simple too, I'm not sure why so many people are having issues bleeding them. I following the directions exactly, and it worked great.
    Anything I don't like about the post? Hmm....weight maybe? Price maybe? The remote is somewhat "bulky" on the handlebar.

    Here are some mounted pics:



    Maintain internal heights.

  76. #176
    Lev
    Lev is offline
    You Guys Riding?
    Reputation: Lev's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    616
    Sort of a repost, but figured this belongs in here:

    OMG I F'ing love this thing. Just got back from my second ride on it. Cold as **** outside, but the seatpost is still smooth as butter. Some general observations: 1) I use it more than I thought I would; 2) Using for climbs has been surprisingly awesome - cleaned some techy stuff today with ease that normally gives me some trouble. It's super nice being able to get your butt down when you need a lower COG; 3) DH is just that much more fun. That's probably the key factor to having the new seatpost. I like climbing and all, but I still have that mentality of climbing to descend. Well, descents just got that much more fun. If you're thinking of getting one, do it. Put it on the xmas list. I don't think they're overrated by the slightest bit. A few pics:










  77. #177
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    20

    Post over extending

    Hi Folks,

    Just picked up the reverb. Had to shorten the hose and bleed (only 1 sringe so far at the remote end). All seems to be working ok, although if you pick the bike up by the saddle when the seatpost is not fully extended the post will lift up and over extend. Has anyone else had this issue?

    Going to try the 2 sringe bleed and see if that fixes it...

  78. #178
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    922
    Quote Originally Posted by mountaindavis
    How much play is normal? When fully extended, my seat can move maybe 1/8"-1/4" fore and aft. This may be normal, I don't know, as it is my first adjustable post. I don't notice it riding and it doesn't really bother me in any tangible way but I would feel a lot better knowing if that is just what adjustable seatposts have or if I should have it looked at. Still quite new. LOVE its functionality...
    Make sure you rotate the post over to one side so you don't mis-interpret some side play for fore and aft play. I have a minor amount of fore-aft play (@.025") with the post fully extended but no play once the post is compressed about 1/2". I don't ride with the post fully extended for this reason.

  79. #179
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    922
    Quote Originally Posted by Hazbo
    Hi Folks,

    Just picked up the reverb. Had to shorten the hose and bleed (only 1 sringe so far at the remote end). All seems to be working ok, although if you pick the bike up by the saddle when the seatpost is not fully extended the post will lift up and over extend. Has anyone else had this issue?

    Going to try the 2 sringe bleed and see if that fixes it...
    Normal...
    The owners manual indicates the post my extend if you pull up on it.

    If you lift the the rear of the bike up by the seat, the post may extend; Depends on the force involved. I'm not quite sure what you mean by over extend. Once you release the seat it will return to its normal set position.

  80. #180
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    11

    reverb won't go up

    My reverb won't go up. Try to pull it up and it sinks back down 2".
    What to do?

  81. #181
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    20
    Quote Originally Posted by MarkHL
    Normal...
    The owners manual indicates the post my extend if you pull up on it.

    If you lift the the rear of the bike up by the seat, the post may extend; Depends on the force involved. I'm not quite sure what you mean by over extend. Once you release the seat it will return to its normal set position.
    Hi Mark,
    Thanks for the reply. Carried out the 2 syringe bleed and seemed to sort the problem. Agreed that that the seat will extend if pulled on(this is what I meant by over extend) However little force had to be applied. Now it stills happens but you need to apply alot force. So there was still air in system I guess.

  82. #182
    mtbr member
    Reputation: q2xltrgt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    100
    Quote Originally Posted by blahblahx
    My reverb won't go up. Try to pull it up and it sinks back down 2".
    What to do?

    Well you can start by reading the rest of this thread. Then if you have any more questions, read it again and bleed your post.

  83. #183
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    11
    q2xltrgt
    Was that just sarcastic crap or do you actually know what you're talking about?
    The post won't go down and if you try to manually pull it up, it goes right back down. I don't see how air could cause either.

  84. #184
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    26
    I don't think it was sarcastic crap. I just received my Reverb on friday. It was stuck in the fully extended position. After reading this post completely, I was able to bleed out the air and now it works perfectly. Make sure to resize the hose before you go through the bleed process. Bleed and become a believer!!!

  85. #185
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    11
    mine worked for a month. Now it's stuck half way. Won't go down. You can pull up, but it comes back down. Just don't see how bleeding would have any affect.

  86. #186
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    1,833
    Quote Originally Posted by blahblahx
    Was that just sarcastic crap or do you actually know what you're talking about?.
    The latter. Read the instructions on bleeding and then have at it. You're bleeding the remote which is separate from the inner workings of the post.

  87. #187
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    11
    Why would having air in the line keep the post from lowering?

  88. #188
    mtbr member
    Reputation: BaeckerX1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    2,242
    Quote Originally Posted by blahblahx
    Why would having air in the line keep the post from lowering?
    Because if you have air in your remote line, then your remote isn't working properly. If your remote isn't working, you can't drop the post. Would you really want a post that drops on its own with no remote interaction? As far as the post is concerned you're not using the remote, so it won't drop. It sounds to me like the post is working as intended.

    Think of hydraulic disc brakes. You have the fluid in the line, and when you pull the lever, it forces the fluid down the line. When it gets to the end, it forces the pistons to close around the disc. If you have air in your lines, it can't generate the force required to push the pistons into the disc. You don't have enough end to end pressure and there's not enough fluid at the end of the line.

    The Reverb also uses a hydraulic remote. Same concept, except I believe the pressure in the line opens a valve that "unlocks" the post and allows it to move freely. The post will then go down if pressure is on it, or release to full extension if no pressure. If you have too much air in the remote line, and not enough fluid, the lever cannot generate enough force to open the valve and "unlock" the post. Therefore, you won't be able to move it up or down, and it will stay at its current position. Even if you pull it up manually, it will return to its original position because you never released the post. The return spring can't move it to full extension, only to its current locked position.

    Just try a good bleed per instructions. It's stupid easy. Once you get it setup correctly, you shouldn't have to worry about it again anytime soon. If it doesn't work, call SRAM.
    Last edited by BaeckerX1; 12-13-2010 at 08:41 AM.
    Gotta get up to get down.
    LMB

  89. #189
    mtbr member
    Reputation: q2xltrgt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    100
    Quote Originally Posted by blahblahx
    q2xltrgt
    Was that just sarcastic crap or do you actually know what you're talking about?
    The post won't go down and if you try to manually pull it up, it goes right back down. I don't see how air could cause either.

    Sorry, working, Not sarcastic. I don't know everything but bleeding seems to be fixing a lot of various issues w/ this post. and if i recall correctly that issue was previously discussed in this thread.

  90. #190
    mtbr member
    Reputation: ThrottleAbuse's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    104
    Has anyone had one of these apart. I need to limit the full extension by 30-40 mm to solve a seat height issue and a max insertion issue. I am thinking I could design a shim and cut it out with my lathe if there is room internally?

  91. #191
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mountaindavis's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    221
    I haven't taken mine apart, but there are some good cutaway pictures on the net, just google rockshox reverb cutaway. I think the sicklines site has some of the best. Here is one from the Sicklines site--they have others there as well.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails RockShox Reverb Thread-2011_rock_shox_reverb_internal1.jpg  


  92. #192
    mtbr member
    Reputation: boude's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    152
    I have just ordered at my French bicycle seller a seatpost Reverb.

    The length of the hydraulic hose of origin is of 1750mm.

    However I need a hydraulic hose of 2200mm because it passes under the case of crankset.

    Having to contact the distributor for France, it would not be possible to have a hydraulic hose of a length superior to 1750mm.

    My questions:
    > Have you of the hydraulic hose of a length of 2200mm?
    > Where may I order this hydraulic hose?
    > What are the other parts to be ordered to install this hydraulic hose?

    Thank you for your assistant.

    Sportily.

  93. #193
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    876
    Hello, anyone weighing in at 275 using a Reverb? I just received mine yesterday which had front to back and side to side play. Never even sat on it. Sent it back for a replacement. Just wondering if there is a weight limit? thanks Rich

  94. #194
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    54

    Size

    So I am confused on how to tell what size post I would need between the 380mm and the 420mm.

    When I measure my current stock post from the bottom of the seat rails to the minimum insertion mark on my frame it is 12" or 304mm.

    With this being the case I am thinking that I can go with the 380mm correct?

  95. #195
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    922
    Quote Originally Posted by boude
    I have just ordered at my French bicycle seller a seatpost Reverb.

    The length of the hydraulic hose of origin is of 1750mm.

    However I need a hydraulic hose of 2200mm because it passes under the case of crankset.

    Having to contact the distributor for France, it would not be possible to have a hydraulic hose of a length superior to 1750mm.

    My questions:
    > Have you of the hydraulic hose of a length of 2200mm?
    > Where may I order this hydraulic hose?
    > What are the other parts to be ordered to install this hydraulic hose?

    Thank you for your assistant.

    Sportily.
    You should be able to route the hose that follows a path near the underside of your top tube. It doesn't make sense to route it all the way under your crankset where is may be more easily damaged. The hose is very light and thin walled. Think "Flexible Soda Straw".

    I suggest you get creative with zip-ties and what RS supplies with the seatpost and see if you can come up with a new routing plan.
    Last edited by MarkHL; 12-17-2010 at 06:52 PM.

  96. #196
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    922
    Quote Originally Posted by rjedoaks
    Hello, anyone weighing in at 275 using a Reverb? I just received mine yesterday which had front to back and side to side play. Never even sat on it. Sent it back for a replacement. Just wondering if there is a weight limit? thanks Rich
    A little rotational side-to-side is normal. It's hard to check for fore and aft play unless you first rotate the post to one side to cancel out feeling any side to side play you may feel in the fore-aft check. A small amount of fore-aft has been reported at full extension. At your weight, you may not want to ride with it fully extended. A half inch insertion would probably be safer.

    I've put about 70 hours on mine so far and it still feels like the day I got it. The small amount of play has not increased in either direction.

  97. #197
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    876
    I was thinking along the lines of a little play would be normal. This was way beyond that, I hope. A tad of rotational play I could live with, but not front to back movement. The post felt really weak, just by grasping, I was able to feel movement where the post entered the post body. If there was as much play as this one has , I really think their would be many more complaints. I suppose I'll find out. It would kind of defeat the purpose if I couldn't use the post at full extension. Thanks Rich

  98. #198
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    68

    Replacement Piston not compatible

    After 5 weeks i finally got a huge box containing the tiny replacement piston, which is a generic xloc spare part that i posted earlier. Unfortunately, it's a totally different design, and is not compatible with the Reverb's xloc lever. The original Reverb piston is shorter, and has a different head design, and a single o-ring. I trried installing it anyway and got a couple of cycles out of the post before it stopped working again. Fluid leaks past the new piston, and it extends way too far. The silver washer bit could probably prevent this, but it would not fit into the piston bore.

    I guess I'll have to go to the importer for a replacement part.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails RockShox Reverb Thread-piston-3.jpg  

    RockShox Reverb Thread-piston-2.jpg  


  99. #199
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Jamie_MTB's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    838
    Dam I've just received mine in the post!

    Looking at the part numbers posted on page 3 they're totally different

  100. #200
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    876

    380- 420

    Quote Originally Posted by rjedoaks
    I was thinking along the lines of a little play would be normal. This was way beyond that, I hope. A tad of rotational play I could live with, but not front to back movement. The post felt really weak, just by grasping, I was able to feel movement where the post entered the post body. If there was as much play as this one has , I really think their would be many more complaints. I suppose I'll find out. It would kind of defeat the purpose if I couldn't use the post at full extension. Thanks Rich

    Anyone know if the telescoping portion of the Reverb is lengthened or just the body gains the 40 mm with the 420. Trying to figure out if the 420 has more overlap inside the body?

Page 2 of 29 FirstFirst 12345612 ... LastLast

Members who have read this thread: 344

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •