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  1. #1301
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    Quote Originally Posted by neil.beltchenko View Post
    Guys, I broke my reverb button off from a crash! First off does it matter if i get a left or right assembly button! second, has anyone delt with this before? I assume ill need to bleed after i install the new button? any info would be great!
    yes, you'll have to bleed the system. It's not diffuclt, do a search for it. The crappy part is shelling out the $100 or so bucks for a new button. It at least comes with a new hose and some other little hardware bits.

  2. #1302
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    Quote Originally Posted by schulzeee View Post
    I started out with the remote on the left side and underneath the handle bar. It definitely worked but I didn't like having a third 'job' for my front brake hand to do. I had the same brake as you at the time.
    I think the best option is to get the left remote because if i buy the right remote and i'm not able to set it on the left side underneath I would have to set it near the remote shock all together...

    Do You agree?

  3. #1303
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    Hi everyone, i just bought the Rockshox Reverb last few days. Everything was going quite well, except the saddle clamp. I am facing a problem where my saddle keep shaking (a little bit), although the the bolts were tighten. This is quite weird as i didnt face this kind of problem when i am using my old seat post. At first i thought is the saddle problem, so i try to install my old saddle, but it's still the same.

    Is the shaking normal? or is the clamp/bolts problems? Please help, thanks.

  4. #1304
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    Hi everyone, i just bought the Rockshox Reverb last few days. Everything was going quite well, except the saddle clamp. I am facing a problem where my saddle keep shaking (a little bit), although the the bolts were tighten. This is quite weird as i didnt face this kind of problem when i am using my old seat post. At first i thought is the saddle problem, so i try to install my old saddle, but it's still the same.

    Is the shaking normal? or is the clamp/bolts problems? Please help, thanks.

  5. #1305
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    Quote Originally Posted by helexia23 View Post
    Some photos of the new Reverb. Oh also I read some people having trouble mounting the actuator with XT levers/brakes. This setup is a left handed actuator mounted upside down on the right. Super clean and easy to reach - but doesn't get in the way either.





    Can you take 1 more photo that gives a better view of how far in the button ended up with respect to the large shifter paddle? Or if it is hard to capture in a photo, can you measure? I guess measure from the right (outer) edge of the large thumb shifter paddle to the right (outer) edge of the button. It just seems like it would be really far away....
    Thanks

  6. #1306
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    Had to check something from the box today and found this piece. I always wondered where this would go. Anyone knows what's it for?
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    Last edited by opiants; 10-03-2012 at 02:49 AM.

  7. #1307
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    Quote Originally Posted by opiants View Post
    Had to check something from the box today and found this part. I always wondered where this would go. Anyone knows what's it for?
    guessing
    some kind of blank for an Avid brake/shifter clamp so you can clamp your reverb button using some kind of match maker thing to to the shifter? or not.......

  8. #1308
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    If you don't run Avid brakes you put that in the bar clamp as a spacer.

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  9. #1309
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    ha! A clamp spacer! I would have never known what it's for. Thanks for clearing that up.

  10. #1310
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    So anyone else broken a top cap (that houses the upper bushing and seals) on their reverb yet? I've ridden mine maybe 10 times before it cracked (vertical crack on the rear of the cap), and it's off to RS for warranty now. Still no word back what they're doing with it, so had to hunt up a rigid temporary post for the time being...
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  11. #1311
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    Quote Originally Posted by helexia23 View Post
    ...This setup is a left handed actuator mounted upside down on the right. Super clean and easy to reach - but doesn't get in the way either....
    Thanks for the tip, that works great. Tucks the actuator away from damage, allows a better position for my thumb and works just fine with existing shifter.

    Quote Originally Posted by opiants View Post
    ha! A clamp spacer! I would have never known what it's for. Thanks for clearing that up.
    Thanks for asking, I was clueless. And I figured out the what/where for the hose guide by the seat clamp too!

  12. #1312
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    Does anyone else experience some slight play in the reverb? both fore/aft and torsional? I've been beating up my reverb for about 3 months now, and it has developed a slight play that can only be felt while off the bike. It still feels rock solid while pedaling.

  13. #1313
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    Help: reverb inner stanchion twisting within the collar!

    Not sure if this is the best place to post this - please advise if not:

    Looking for advice on an issue that surfaced with my reverb yesterday. Apologies for getting the terminology wrong!

    The stanchion (?, inner tube to which the seat is attached that slides up and down) now twists within the collar with moderate force. Was riding a wheelie, for example, and the seat twisted. The binder bolt is tight, and I can twist the seat with my hands and watch that the collar at the top of the outer housing stays put without moving. This is 10-20 degree movements I'm talking about, and then I have to either twist it back, or loosen the seatpost binder bolt and move it back.

    I thought there was a keylock mechanism to prevent this, so it's puzzling me that this could even happen at all - any thoughts as to what I need to do to fix this? Am I in danger of catastrophic failure on my long ride tomorrow?

    Thanks!

  14. #1314
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    If your inner post is truly able to turn, you've got something catastrophic going on because there are three pretty solid keys that keep the tube from twisting. However, I would think any type of failure with the keys, especially to the point of being able to twist the tube, would have impacted its ability to extend and retract, which sounds not to be the case.

    Are you sure the twisting isn't occurring at the connection between the saddle rail cradle (the part connected to the top of the tube that the saddle rails sit in) and the inner tube. In other words, if you can twist your seat but not actually feel the tube turning, this is what's likely happening. This failure was recently documented here.

  15. #1315
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    Quote Originally Posted by Betarad View Post
    If your inner post is truly able to turn, you've got something catastrophic going on because there are three pretty solid keys that keep the tube from twisting. However, I would think any type of failure with the keys, especially to the point of being able to twist the tube, would have impacted its ability to extend and retract, which sounds not to be the case.

    Are you sure the twisting isn't occurring at the connection between the saddle rail cradle (the part connected to the top of the tube that the saddle rails sit in) and the inner tube. In other words, if you can twist your seat but not actually feel the tube turning, this is what's likely happening. This failure was recently documented here.
    ^^ this, exactly. That was me that recently posted (see posts #1285 and 1290) about the top part that houses the saddle rail twisting on top of the telescoping tube. It basically just screws on the top. I unscrewed it almost a full revolution to create a large gap, added medium loctite into the gap, then tightened it up hard. I haven't had an issue since then.

  16. #1316
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    Awesome, many thanks to both of you!
    I'll have a closer look when I get home, but it'd be great if that fixes the issue!!!


    Quote Originally Posted by albertdc View Post
    ^^ this, exactly. That was me that recently posted (see posts #1285 and 1290) about the top part that houses the saddle rail twisting on top of the telescoping tube. It basically just screws on the top. I unscrewed it almost a full revolution to create a large gap, added medium loctite into the gap, then tightened it up hard. I haven't had an issue since then.
    Quote Originally Posted by Betarad View Post
    If your inner post is truly able to turn, you've got something catastrophic going on because there are three pretty solid keys that keep the tube from twisting. However, I would think any type of failure with the keys, especially to the point of being able to twist the tube, would have impacted its ability to extend and retract, which sounds not to be the case.

    Are you sure the twisting isn't occurring at the connection between the saddle rail cradle (the part connected to the top of the tube that the saddle rails sit in) and the inner tube. In other words, if you can twist your seat but not actually feel the tube turning, this is what's likely happening. This failure was recently documented here.

  17. #1317
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    Are you sure the stanchion is moving, or the piece where the seat is attached to the stanchion.
    I got the same problem after a crash, the seat clamp moved since it is screwed to the stanchion I unscrew it to the point I felt to much resistance, and I can saw about 4mm of the thread then I put some epoxi glue and screw it again, let dry and that is all.
    I am thinking in put a security bolt also but for now is just the glue I hope this help
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  18. #1318
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    Quote Originally Posted by Midle Age Warrior View Post
    Are you sure the stanchion is moving, or the piece where the seat is attached to the stanchion.
    I got the same problem after a crash, the seat clamp moved since it is screwed to the stanchion I unscrew it to the point I felt to much resistance, and I can saw about 4mm of the thread then I put some epoxi glue and screw it again, let dry and that is all.
    I am thinking in put a security bolt also but for now is just the glue I hope this help
    That's similar to what I did (see above), though I used loc-tite instead of epoxy glue. If the seat clamp mechanism ever fails, I wanted to still be able to break the bond and unscrew it in order to replace that piece. If you use epoxy glue, you may never be able to undo it. Maybe that doesn't matter, but wanted to put it out there as food for thought.

  19. #1319
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    So my Reverb is still dropping in travel when fully extended (or any position really when not slammed), the drop is minimal, less than 3/4 of an inch, but still quite annoying to constantly lift up and press the button to get the right fully extended pedaling position. This doesn't happen always but definitely often. There are times when I'll slam it, raise it and it stays put. Other times I'll slam it, raise it, stays put but pedal some distance, raise my butt and if button is pressed, it will extend the the distance it has dropped.

    Proper pressure isn't the problem it seems, I know for a fact I have 250 psi in there. There's only a few more rides for me this season before breaking down the bike for winter and maintenance and I guess I'll be sending it to SRAM for a look over (along with my creaking Fox 34 Float SMH).
    konahonzo

  20. #1320
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    It's still a mystery to me what exactly keeps the post locked in any given position. I suppose it's proprietary info that Sram wants to keep that way. The issue of my post dropping a few inches from my weight was completely attributed to my loss of seal and air pressure, as ever since re-sealing it it's holding air and working flawlessly again. Still, there's more involved than just the air psi keeping the post locked. Keep us posted on what the fix is, if Sram even tells you.

  21. #1321
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    How often do you folks bleed your posts?

    A month after getting my Reverb, it would sink when I sat on it so I bled it. It was working great for the past 6 months, and not it's starting to sink again.

    Could this be an internal seal issue or bleeding every once in awhile is normal for it?

  22. #1322
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    a little rough

    Just bought a bike that has a reverb on it. It has less than 100 miles on the post and I noticed that it has a little sticking point about half way through the stroke. Sometimes it returns to full height sometimes it sticks. Any thoughts?
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  23. #1323
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    Quote Originally Posted by dustyduke22 View Post
    Just bought a bike that has a reverb on it. It has less than 100 miles on the post and I noticed that it has a little sticking point about half way through the stroke. Sometimes it returns to full height sometimes it sticks. Any thoughts?
    too much seat post clamp tension.
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  24. #1324
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    Quote Originally Posted by dustyduke22 View Post
    Just bought a bike that has a reverb on it. It has less than 100 miles on the post and I noticed that it has a little sticking point about half way through the stroke. Sometimes it returns to full height sometimes it sticks. Any thoughts?
    The first thing I'd check is to make sure it's not just clamped too tightly in the seatpost tube. The Reverb has proven a bit sensitive to this.

  25. #1325
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    Quote Originally Posted by dustyduke22 View Post
    Just bought a bike that has a reverb on it. It has less than 100 miles on the post and I noticed that it has a little sticking point about half way through the stroke. Sometimes it returns to full height sometimes it sticks. Any thoughts?
    My money is on this: your seat post clamp is too tight. That squeezes the stationary part of the seat tube and the telescoping part has resistance when it goes through the restricted area. Loosen your clamp a bit and see if works better. You may need friction paste to keep the seat post from moving once the clamp is looser.

    Sent from my Galaxy S3

  26. #1326
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    there you go....it's unanimous.

  27. #1327
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    Quote Originally Posted by albertdc View Post
    My money is on this: your seat post clamp is too tight. That squeezes the stationary part of the seat tube and the telescoping part has resistance when it goes through the restricted area. Loosen your clamp a bit and see if works better. You may need friction paste to keep the seat post from moving once the clamp is looser.

    Sent from my Galaxy S3
    But be careful of it creaking. I used Finish Line Carbon slip paste with my initial install and it took me half a season or riding and even going as far as buying a new clamp and hardware kit to stop my Reverb from creaking loudly whenever in the saddle.

    With the paste and not enough torque on the Chromag QR and my post slipped constantly in the seat tube. Too much torque and it creaked so bad that I almost thought about returning to a Thomson post.

    First time dealing with the carbon paste and it truly has been a bad experience.

    Cleaned up my seat tube from the carbon slip paste, cleaned the Reverb, applied a little Red Devil grease and my QR is tight enough that my post now never slips. Ever. And it operates smoothly as well.
    konahonzo

  28. #1328
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    Quote Originally Posted by Betarad View Post
    there you go....it's unanimous.
    Seriously - 3 simultaneous posts, all with the same answer! :thumbup:

    Sent from my Galaxy S3

  29. #1329
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    Followup on my Reverb. After a ride yesterday I noticed the seatpost dropping down about an inch or so when weight is put on it. A quick google suggested to check air pressure. My shock pump read less than 100 psi when I filled it to 250 not a month ago. After a quick fill, I could actually hear air leaking out. I checked anyway to see if that fixed the dropping down issue, to find the post is now completely stuck, won't budge an inch with all my weight on it, with or without air.

    For the record the post has been used for a little over 4 months, although it did see some pretty heavy use during that period. Will contact SRAM on monday.

  30. #1330
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    Which service kit?

    How does one know whether they need a basic service kit or the full kit?

    My post will settle about 1/4" when I put my body weight on it but then it's solid. This started after several hundred rides. Will the basic seat post o'ring kit solve this problem or is it an issue with the IFP?.

  31. #1331
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    Quote Originally Posted by MarkHL View Post
    How does one know whether they need a basic service kit or the full kit?

    My post will settle about 1/4" when I put my body weight on it but then it's solid. This started after several hundred rides. Will the basic seat post o'ring kit solve this problem or is it an issue with the IFP?.
    I think it is the IFP or some kind of valve failure. As my post just started doing that, and I traced it back to an air leak, which, after refilling the air, caused a complete bind of the post. I have yet to contact SRAM about it, but I think it's much more than what the basic service will fix.

  32. #1332
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    Got a good deal on a 2011 380x125 reverb, decided to swap the parts needed into my 2012 420x125 to save some weight.

    Note: this was a HUGE pain. It took hours, I rebuild forks all the time, this is way more touchy to get right. Don't do it unless your post is broken.

    The only differences between the 380 and 420 are the inner piston (shorter shaft) and the outer black tube. Everything else is interchangeable.

    The only differences between the 2011 and 2012 are a grey coating on the inner piston shaft for the 2012 vs a gold on the 2011, and what looks like pipe dope on all the threaded connections on the 2012 (this is likely the main reason the newer ones are more reliable).

    I used the upper tube from the 2012 with the lower tube from the 2011. It worked fine, but the logo no longer lines up. They must have moved the position of the keys relative to the seat position.

    The bleed instructions are good. The hard part is getting the top plug thing in with enough fluid under it to prevent an air bubble, but not too much fluid otherwise it won't go down enough to fit the cap and snap ring.

  33. #1333
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    Quote Originally Posted by kroe View Post
    The only differences between the 2011 and 2012 are a grey coating on the inner piston shaft for the 2012 vs a gold on the 2011, and what looks like pipe dope on all the threaded connections on the 2012 (this is likely the main reason the newer ones are more reliable.
    Interesting about the pipe dope. My 2012 failed with an air pressure loss due to the inner seal head somehow unscrewing itself from the inner shaft until its o-ring finally popped out. This was despite having the pipe dope on its threads. During the rebuild, I found it difficult to hold the inner shaft tight enough to be able to tighten the seal head to spec. I just hope I got it tight enough.

    I'm trying to understand how there is any rotating force against the inner seal head that would cause the unscrewing. The inner shaft is keyed to the outer, so none of that rotates. Does the inner piston shaft rotate as it moves in and out of the inner seal head? I don't think it does, but could be wrong. My inner seal head was unscrewed about 4 or 5 full rotations, I just can't imagine this happening simply from vibration, especially with the pipe dope.

  34. #1334
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    Quote Originally Posted by BluPenguin View Post
    Followup on my Reverb. After a ride yesterday I noticed the seatpost dropping down about an inch or so when weight is put on it. A quick google suggested to check air pressure. My shock pump read less than 100 psi when I filled it to 250 not a month ago. After a quick fill, I could actually hear air leaking out. I checked anyway to see if that fixed the dropping down issue, to find the post is now completely stuck, won't budge an inch with all my weight on it, with or without air.

    For the record the post has been used for a little over 4 months, although it did see some pretty heavy use during that period. Will contact SRAM on monday.
    Your symptoms sound identical to my recent failure, with the exception of the total lock-up. Kind of sounds like yours went a step further. Perhaps your inner seal head has come completely unscrewed from the shaft and is now lodged in there. Hard to imagine though, I would think loss of air pressure would occur long before the seal head becomes completely unscrewed.

    Another thing I found upon disassembly was the initial disintegration of the inner seal head bushing, which seems to be another effect of the seal head rotating loose. Perhaps yours has disintegrated to the point of lock-up.

    I guess the only way you'll know the cause for sure is to disassemble it yourself, but I don't recommend it. Get it back to Sram, it sounds like yours may have some seriously damaged parts.

  35. #1335
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    Quote Originally Posted by MarkHL View Post
    How does one know whether they need a basic service kit or the full kit?

    My post will settle about 1/4" when I put my body weight on it but then it's solid. This started after several hundred rides. Will the basic seat post o'ring kit solve this problem or is it an issue with the IFP?.
    Is your air pressure low? If so, you have a leak that the basic kit will probably fix. The basic kit says o-rings only, but it does come with the inner seal head bushing also, which takes you into disassembly as far as most people really want to go anyway. As kroe mentions, it gets pretty tricky after this (I'll take his word on this, especially after viewing the video instructions).

    Although I'm not real clear on when its really called for, a bleed might solve your issue. I would try this if your air pressure appears normal.

  36. #1336
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    Quote Originally Posted by Betarad View Post
    Your symptoms sound identical to my recent failure, with the exception of the total lock-up. Kind of sounds like yours went a step further. Perhaps your inner seal head has come completely unscrewed from the shaft and is now lodged in there. Hard to imagine though, I would think loss of air pressure would occur long before the seal head becomes completely unscrewed.

    Another thing I found upon disassembly was the initial disintegration of the inner seal head bushing, which seems to be another effect of the seal head rotating loose. Perhaps yours has disintegrated to the point of lock-up.

    I guess the only way you'll know the cause for sure is to disassemble it yourself, but I don't recommend it. Get it back to Sram, it sounds like yours may have some seriously damaged parts.
    Okay so I still don't know what's wrong with it, but SRAM (through my dealer), has agreed to send me a new post. The catch is I'm not going to get it until December. Apparently SRAM already realized the failures, and they're working on a new model, which will be available around then to be sent out.

  37. #1337
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    Quote Originally Posted by Betarad View Post
    Is your air pressure low
    No, the IFP is holding 250 psi; the post (when new) would settle about .010-.020 under my weight (165#), it's just progressively gotten worse over the course of about 375 rides.
    I suspect the IFP has lost a bit of fluid through the seals and that's at the heart of the problem.

  38. #1338
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    The inner seal head shouldn't rotate, but for whatever reason it is prone to unscrewing, my theory is that the inner sea head unscrewing is the primary failure mode for these posts. Two of the three failed reverbs I have rebuilt had loosened up at that point. Surprised it loosened up with the new goop they put on there. I'd use loctite.

    It could be pressure in the chamber not rotation that causes it to unscrew. Not sure why this would unscrew but suspension forks with similar pressure and threaded connections would not, but its a theory.

  39. #1339
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    Need some help with setup of my Reverb. The return speed was nice and quick before (the way i wanted it to be) but it was DAMN hard to press the actuator. Someone said to bleed it. It has now had a proper bleed on it but it's still very hard to press AND- even with the barrel adjuster all the way turned, the return is too slow! Not crazy slow but not nearly as crisp and i'd like. So now it's worse. Any suggestions? thanks!

  40. #1340
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    After 5 months and tons of riding, mine started to sag this past week. Checked the psi, it was fine.
    Luckily for me, I bought it at MEC and they stand behind everything they sell for life. Within 10 minutes, the new one is on my bike.

    I love the reverb, its a great seatpost and I love MEC too for their warranty.

  41. #1341
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    Quote Originally Posted by dorkboy View Post
    After 5 months and tons of riding, mine started to sag this past week. Checked the psi, it was fine.
    Luckily for me, I bought it at MEC and they stand behind everything they sell for life. Within 10 minutes, the new one is on my bike.

    I love the reverb, its a great seatpost and I love MEC too for their warranty.
    See, that's exacltly what's wrong with mine, sags at 250 psi. And it was the reason why I bought mine at REI for their return policy, only now to find out they don't carry the Reverb at all anymore. I can either return it to them or send in for warranty to SRAM. I wish I could simply exchange mine and be on my way.
    konahonzo

  42. #1342
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    Hi, I know little about these , but have ridden bikes with them and know I want one , have seen this online for $200
    ]Rock Shox Reverb 100mm Dropper Seatpost 30.9x420 RC

    Is this a good- one, it seems cheap ,is it an old model ? Is that why it is cheap ? Would I be better spending more ? I have a 2012 Rumblefish, would it be compatible ?

    The 2013 model Rumblefish now comes with one , this one , RockShox Reverb, 31.6mm, zero offset,

    How do they compare? Which one would you recommend for my bike ?

    Any help appreciated

  43. #1343
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    The one you listed is 30.9mm diameter, the Rumblefish uses a 31.6mm seat post.

    It won't be compatible with your Rumblefish, unless you shim the seatpost (which I wouldn't really advise as you need to clamp it lightly to avoid issues with the post sticking).

  44. #1344
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    I saw that ad for the closeout Reverbs yesterday, and as of then, the 30.9's were more expensive, but they still had 31.6 for that price.
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  45. #1345
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    If your on the taller size, you would probably want at least a 125mm range of adjustment. Perhaps this is also why the 100mm is less expensive.

  46. #1346
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    thanks for your help , I almost ordered the wrong thing

  47. #1347
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    Last edited by Silverfern; 11-04-2012 at 09:44 PM. Reason: wrong paste

  48. #1348
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    Excuse my ignorance I know little about them , but what is the difference between the two,

    Rock Shox Reverb Adjustable Seatpost 31.6 125mm

  49. #1349
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    The ads are definitely a bit confusing. The only significant difference I can see is the more expensive one comes with a left-hand remote, the less expensive one is the more common right hand remote. Both appear to be 2012 versions.

    There's rumor that there may be an updated version in the works, to address lingering issues with the 2012. Perhaps this is partly the reason for the sale pricing.

  50. #1350
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    Did you bleed it with the right fluid? if so check the line, I found once the line was smashed causing the same behavior
    Hope this help
    In my workshop, dirty hands is a state of mind

  51. #1351
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    One more question , im now aware the 125 mm range is more suited to the taller rider,

    But What is the significant difference between that one and the 100mm , at what point does a rider become more suited to one or the other ? if you get my drift .

    Im probably considered fairly average , 5 11 and ride a 19 inch bike .

    Thanks

  52. #1352
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    Make two measurements of your current seatpost:

    Climbing height
    Descending height

    Subtract one from the other and decide.
    "Mi amor Nuevo Miércoles!"

    -cabra cadabra

  53. #1353
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    If you like to fully lower your seat for terranical downhill sections to keep from getting bucked off the bike, then you'll want the most adjustability /capacity to lower your seat.

    Just check that the seat does not rise higher then your maximum riding height. With 5" of adjust, plus around 3 inches of minimum lowest position ability, you'll probably need at least 8 inches of post exposed from the bike frame to the seat rails to use a 125mm adjust system. Otherwise you'll want the 100mm.

    Cheers,

  54. #1354
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    I'm in the market for a dropper post, and I read in a few places that the Reverb was the way to go. I will be honest though...you guys are scaring me.

    Are dropper posts in general just that unreliable?

    Anyway, I have a rumblefish elite on order with SLX shifters and brakes. Would that setup allow for the Right hand button upside down on the left side?

  55. #1355
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    OK...... deepest apologies for being a bit slow , this is all new to me, just want to make sure Ive got this right, but the way I see it the 100mm may be the safer bet ,

    My current seated position at normal riding height has around 210 mm of seat post exposed , If I lower that by 100 mm, Im pretty sure im low enough for the riding I do ,

    If I look at the 125mm option , and then look at the lowest possible setting of putting the seat down ( depending what that is exactly ) , and add on the 125mm , I may be cutting it fine for my normal 210mm riding height .

    Am I on the right track ?

    Cheers and thanks for all your help so far !!!

  56. #1356
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    Question for the Rockshox owners out there - How long is the outer tube on the 420 and 380 models? I'm considering getting one but I'm worried that it will be too long at the bottom and interfere with the rear shock on my 07 SJ.

    -S

  57. #1357
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    Anyone got a fix for the post dropping about 10mm when fully extended when you put your weight on it? Checked air pressure, which is fine.

  58. #1358
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    Have you tried doing a full bleed? That solved my issues.

  59. #1359
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    Good evening, I've been a member for many years and havn't needed to ask any questions as I've found them all before asking. So I'm calling on your knowledge people!

    I brought my Reverb earlier this year brand new and havn't needed to bleed it since fitting. On recent rides I've pulled up on the seat to lift the bike and found that its not locked in position and pulls up. I can't remember this happening from new.

    Could anyone advise me what to do, as i havn't found any fault finding information and reasons to bleed it other than guides.

    Many thanks, Elliott.

  60. #1360
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    Quote Originally Posted by Elliott_MBR View Post
    Good evening, I've been a member for many years and havn't needed to ask any questions as I've found them all before asking. So I'm calling on your knowledge people!

    I brought my Reverb earlier this year brand new and havn't needed to bleed it since fitting. On recent rides I've pulled up on the seat to lift the bike and found that its not locked in position and pulls up. I can't remember this happening from new.

    Could anyone advise me what to do, as i havn't found any fault finding information and reasons to bleed it other than guides.

    Many thanks, Elliott.

    Some people will tell you to bleed the post, but the manual itself says that it is normal behavior. I've had it happen to my post, seemingly randomly, over the summer. I don't know why sometimes it pulls up and other times it will lift the bike while retracted. As long as everything else works fine, don't worry about it since the instructions say it is normal.

    Sent from my Galaxy S3

  61. #1361
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikkosan View Post
    Have you tried doing a full bleed? That solved my issues.
    Tried a full bleed. Still does it.

  62. #1362
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    Quote Originally Posted by albertdc View Post
    Some people will tell you to bleed the post, but the manual itself says that it is normal behavior. I've had it happen to my post, seemingly randomly, over the summer. I don't know why sometimes it pulls up and other times it will lift the bike while retracted. As long as everything else works fine, don't worry about it since the instructions say it is normal.

    Sent from my Galaxy S3
    Thanks for your reply. Wish i could remember if it did it from new.

    Anyone else's do this?

  63. #1363
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    Mine did this on a few occasions, in fact I noticed that it did this a few weeks prior to the loss-of-air-pressure failure I recently went through. Still not sure if the two were related, I don't think so really. But it hasn't done it since my rebuild.

  64. #1364
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    artscyclery has some 2012 reverbs for $199. They did have the one I need, but I don't have my bike yet, so I had to wait for trek to email me back with what length post I needed and by the time i got the email back the deal was gone

    Looks like they still have the 31.6 100mm x420 in a right hand remote still

  65. #1365
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    Can anyone tell me what if any the differences are between a 2012 and a 2013 Reverb?

  66. #1366
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    artscyclery has some 2012 reverbs for $199. They did have the one I need, but I don't have my bike yet, so I had to wait for trek to email me back with what length post I needed and by the time i got the email back the deal was gone

    Looks like they still have the 31.6 100mm x420 in a right hand remote still

    Just bought my second one from these guys. $200 for the reverb's functionality is a no brainer. And two reverbs is a must have if you're into all mtn and freeride on one rig.

    Merry christmas to me

  67. #1367
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    I ended up buying a 100mm drop for the $200. Not exactly what I wanted, but hard to pass up at that price.

  68. #1368
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    Well, my 2011 Reverb lasted a full season before it puked its internals. My 2012 warranty replacement lasted just as long.

    Any requests for photos as I tear it down and rebuild? I know further back in this thread I saw a decent write up on a rebuild. I know SRAM is too lazy to offer service doc's for this. Thanks SRAM!

  69. #1369
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    SRAM finally posted the IFP bleed procedure. Their instructions are perfect, and it is very hard to get it right any other way.

    Reverb seatpost service - part 3 - YouTube

  70. #1370
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    Fantastic! Thanks for that!

  71. #1371
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    Quote Originally Posted by car_nut View Post
    Well, my 2011 Reverb lasted a full season before it puked its internals. My 2012 warranty replacement lasted just as long.

    Any requests for photos as I tear it down and rebuild? I know further back in this thread I saw a decent write up on a rebuild. I know SRAM is too lazy to offer service doc's for this. Thanks SRAM!
    Photos are always appreciated, especially of the failed bits.

  72. #1372
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    Does anyone know what's new in the 2013 reverb versus the 2012? Is it worth paying the extra for the 2013 version?

  73. #1373
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    hey everyone, i just recently tried to install a reverb stealth on my trek slash but have been unsuccessful. I was able to install the seat post, however, the bleeding has been a pain in the ass. Every time i attempt to pass fluid from the remote to the seat, i get leaks from the syringes! Anybody have any tips? I'm following the sram videos online. Worst case scenario ill take it to the lbs for install and bleed. Just wanted to see if anyone had any advice before dropping more $ for what seems to be an easy install.

  74. #1374
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    Quote Originally Posted by onlyzenki View Post
    hey everyone, i just recently tried to install a reverb stealth on my trek slash but have been unsuccessful. I was able to install the seat post, however, the bleeding has been a pain in the ass. Every time i attempt to pass fluid from the remote to the seat, i get leaks from the syringes! Anybody have any tips? I'm following the sram videos online. Worst case scenario ill take it to the lbs for install and bleed. Just wanted to see if anyone had any advice before dropping more $ for what seems to be an easy install.
    Honestly, sounds like user error - what do you mean leaks?
    The vids are pretty straight forward.

  75. #1375
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    im pretty sure it is user error. the syringes leak from what i believe is the red plastic that connects the tube. It leaks when i try to pass fluid back and forth from one syringe to the other while providing pressure on one and a vacuum on the other.

  76. #1376
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    Quote Originally Posted by onlyzenki View Post
    im pretty sure it is user error. the syringes leak from what i believe is the red plastic that connects the tube. It leaks when i try to pass fluid back and forth from one syringe to the other while providing pressure on one and a vacuum on the other.
    Where on the red plastic adaptor does it leak from? The hose side or the syringe side? I use a zip tie on the hose side to tighten the hose against the red nipple, and make sure to screw in the adaptor properly into the syringe.

    -S

  77. #1377
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    Scanned through the 50+ pages and wanted to run this consensus past you guys...

    For the 2012 125mm Reverb:

    If you'd like to ride gravity and want that seat to be as close to the frame as possible, grab the 380mm version.

    If you're taller or prefer very tall seat heights, grab the 420mm?

    Correct?

    ------------------

    Also any preference between left and right version?

  78. #1378
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    Quote Originally Posted by GoingOffRoading View Post
    Scanned through the 50+ pages and wanted to run this consensus past you guys...

    For the 2012 125mm Reverb:

    If you'd like to ride gravity and want that seat to be as close to the frame as possible, grab the 380mm version.

    If you're taller or prefer very tall seat heights, grab the 420mm?

    Correct?

    ------------------

    Also any preference between left and right version?
    Yes, length is dependent on your frame and also your height. Some frames can't take a long seatpost and so you may need a shorter one. Then again, I think the 125mm/380mm Reverbs are being phased out - can't seem to find many of them for sale these days, except used or old models.

    Left and right will depend on your personal preference and what's on your bike currently. I have the fork lockout on my right so the other available spot for the seat remote is on the left.

    -S

  79. #1379
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    Quote Originally Posted by GoingOffRoading View Post
    Scanned through the 50+ pages and wanted to run this consensus past you guys...

    For the 2012 125mm Reverb:

    If you'd like to ride gravity and want that seat to be as close to the frame as possible, grab the 380mm version.

    If you're taller or prefer very tall seat heights, grab the 420mm?

    Correct?

    ------------------

    Also any preference between left and right version?
    Some people need that 420mm to make it safe to run in their frames, due to minimum insertion requirements (ex. for a person who has very long legs and likes small frames). People get 380mm otherwise, for weight savings and less waste. The bottom most part of the seat post should extend past the area where the top-tube meets the seat tube.

    Left/right only refers to which side/hand the remote is designed for. I have little doubt that the right side is most popular. If people don't run a front shifter, then they can run the "right-hand" remote upside-down, under the bar, on the left side, which I think is the best place.

    I'm currently on a 125mm 380mm right version (1st gen) that's been working fine ever since I got it. Only bled it once so far in over a year, when I trimmed the line. I don't leave it sitting unused for long periods of time, so it doesn't really have time to run into funny issues from simply sitting around.
    Last edited by Varaxis; 12-09-2012 at 05:06 PM.

  80. #1380
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    Scanned all 50 pages and didn't find the exact issue I'm having - While extended fully the post has a slight (maybe 3mm) amount of free play where it moved up and down by hand making a 'clunking' noise. Aside from this issue it works fine, though when you sit on the seat it has that tiny amount of sink. Strange though as it does not appear to be the hydro system, which has been bleed a handful of times trying to remedy this.

    Thanks

  81. #1381
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    Can anyone tell me the MAX SEAT HEIGHT for a 125mmx380mm Reverb?

    ...Post inserted to its MINIMUM insertion depth with full extension.

  82. #1382
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    Just take away 80mm or 85mm from the total post length, as that's what the MIN insertion depth is for the Reverb, but IMO, I wouldn't run less than 100mm inserted into the frame.
    konahonzo

  83. #1383
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    I need help, I just got a reverb as part of a trade deal. The only thing is that when he sent the post off to sram to get rebuilt he took the bolts out. Well in that amount of time the metal pieces that the bolts screw into have vanished. I am looking for some help on where I can find them or order new bolt set up. Anyone know anything?

  84. #1384
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    ^ You need SRAM part number 11.6815.006.010 (Post Clamp Kit Reverb). Price is S21.95 and your LBS should be able to order it without a problem for you, took a week for mine to get here when I was trying to track down a creaking on my Reverb this season.

    Or buy online here.
    konahonzo

  85. #1385
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    Would a simple barrel nut from the hardware store not suffice?

  86. #1386
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    I have had a problem develop on my reverb today. I went to use the bike and the rubber boot has sliped off at the remoted end and there is oil leaking from around the button shaft from the body of the remote. Any one have any ideas what the problem is?

  87. #1387
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    Got the Reverb back from warranty today. Repaired, not replaced, but it looks fine and feels great. Hopefully it holds up!

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    New question here. minimum exposed seatpost length for reverb

    I'm thinking about getting a dropper post, but my exposed seatpost length on my bike is pretty short. It is 6.5 inches from top of seat collar to the bottom of the post clamp head, about 7.25 inches from the top of the seat collar to the seat rails at the center the post. My current post is zero offset like the reverb. I probably can/will have my max seat height with the dropper about 0.5 inch higher than this current height. Will a reverb work for this w/out being too tall? Is the 100 mm travel version shorter from the 'collar' of the reverb post to the clamp head, or does it just move less? If it is shorter, would the 100 mm version be a better choice for my bike set-up, or could I still use the 125 mm version without having my fully extended seat height being too tall for me? Insertion depth into my frame is not an issue; my frame is a large w/a full lenght seat tube, and you can completely slam down a standard 400 mm seat post.

  89. #1389
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    Sounds to me like the 100mm will be your best option. And yes the distance between the collars is less on the 100mm version.

  90. #1390
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    I measured 188mm (7.4 inches), from seat clamp to seat rail for the 125mm dropper post on my bike. So that will be pushing it for you depending on how much higher you truly are willing to put your seat. Personally, I think you will be OK - I couldn't believe how much higher I put my seat once I got the dropper.
    Assuming the design is otherwise the same, the 100mm version should put you at 163 mm (6.4 inches) which will of course leave you plenty of leeway. I guess it depends on availability and how aggressively you want to be able to lower your seat. I have probably never used my whole 120mm of drop, but certainly know people who have.

    Good luck. Hope my measurements don't steer you wrong!



    Sent from my Galaxy S3 using Tapatalk 2

  91. #1391
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    Thanks for the info Albertdc! I think from your measurement, 125 version will be OK. I tried that height w/my current post and it felt good.

  92. #1392
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    You're welcome. I remeasured and got 190mm to the center of the seat rails.

    The dropper post and carbon wheels ("cheap Chinese rims" on Hope Pro II hubs) are the two best upgrades I've ever done on a bike. :thumbup:

    Sent from my Galaxy S3 using Tapatalk 2

  93. #1393
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    Are the reverbs stealth released already? I'm planning to get a dropper post soon and still thinking what to buy and some friends have told me to just wait for the stealths as they are more durable/reliable than the previous models.any truth in this?

  94. #1394
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    Gotta love SRAM's customer service. Not.

    Dropped of my 2012 Reverb at LBS to have sent for warranty last week and got a call back today. SRAM doesn't want to see my post at all. They can magically diagnose the problem it seems without evening touching it. My problem was that it sags in travel a few centimeters, started happening at the end of last season. Even after a full rebleed. I started riding in May, weekends only, and problem started in September. That's 5 months of riding, hardly a full season of hard riding for it to go broke so quickly.

    SRAM ran my serial number, no Reverbs from that production batch came back for warranty and said they aren't taking mine back either. WTF. They said like any other suspension product it requires maintenance, 50 hrs/6 months for basic rebuild (kit costs under $10) or 100 hrs/1 year for a full rebuild (kit costs under $50).

    All they offered was to send the basic rebuild kit to my LBS and that's it. LBS wants $50 to perform the service. I think I'll try my chances doing it myself first after watching a few vids, can't be rocket science.

    OR simply return the post to REI (original place of purchase), save myself about $100 (as I paid close to $350 for it), and buy a new Reverb for ± $250 and ride another year.
    konahonzo

  95. #1395
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    Gotta love SRAM's customer service. Not.

    Dropped of my 2012 Reverb at LBS to have sent for warranty last week and got a call back today. SRAM doesn't want to see my post at all. They can magically diagnose the problem it seems without evening touching it. My problem was that it sags in travel a few centimeters, started happening at the end of last season. Even after a full rebleed. I started riding in May, weekends only, and problem started in September. That's 5 months of riding, hardly a full season of hard riding for it to go broke so quickly.

    SRAM ran my serial number, no Reverbs from that production batch came back for warranty and said they aren't taking mine back either. WTF. They said like any other suspension product it requires maintenance, 50 hrs/6 months for basic rebuild (kit costs under $10) or 100 hrs/1 year for a full rebuild (kit costs under $50).

    All they offered was to send the basic rebuild kit to my LBS and that's it. LBS wants $50 to perform the service. I think I'll try my chances doing it myself first after watching a few vids, can't be rocket science.

    OR simply return the post to REI (original place of purchase), save myself about $100 (as I paid close to $350 for it), and buy a new Reverb for ± $250 and ride another year.
    OK, that is a bummer. My experiences with SRAM have been just the opposite. I've had 4 reverbs replaced by them now with the most recent being a few months ago for the same issue you are having now.

    1. Use your LBS. You might talk to SRAM through the 800 number, but they won't deal with you.
    2. Be persistent and remain kind. I took SRAM up on their offer of the rebuild kit, but that didn't fully resolve the problem. When the LBS couldn't perform a full rebuild sucessfully, I wasn't charged and SRAM sent out a new post.

    SRAM is worlds above many in the bike industry in taking care of paying customers. I'm sure you can get this taken care of, just use your LBS for service and work through the official channels.

  96. #1396
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    ^ So the basic rebuild kit didn't take care of your sagging problem? My LBS isn't exactly close (25 miles one way) plus I didn't buy it through them but REI (but they are definitely taking care of me by attempting this warranty). I already contacted REI but they are not expecting any Reverbs in what I need (420x31.6x125 R).

    And I did call SRAM after talking with my LBS, I asked under what circumstances will they physically take it back for warranty purposes, but the guy made it sound like 90% of all warranty repairs is handled by the LBS, they just send parts out, seems kinda lazy on their part. They diagnose the problem with the LBS tech, but the tech doesn't know any more than what I told him.

    I'll try the rebuild kit myself, if not, I'm simply going to return it to REI and pick up a new one somewhere else. I'm not going to waste my time driving back and forth to the LBS while they diagnose it over the phone. Or be out $50 on having the LBS rebuild it, only to have it still sag. What hurts the most is that I'm in Chicago daily, I can drop off my Reverb myself to them.
    konahonzo

  97. #1397
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    Quote Originally Posted by CharacterZero View Post
    OK, that is a bummer. My experiences with SRAM have been just the opposite. I've had 4 reverbs replaced by them now with the most recent being a few months ago for the same issue you are having now.

    1. Use your LBS. You might talk to SRAM through the 800 number, but they won't deal with you.
    2. Be persistent and remain kind. I took SRAM up on their offer of the rebuild kit, but that didn't fully resolve the problem. When the LBS couldn't perform a full rebuild sucessfully, I wasn't charged and SRAM sent out a new post.

    SRAM is worlds above many in the bike industry in taking care of paying customers. I'm sure you can get this taken care of, just use your LBS for service and work through the official channels.
    Great customer service from SRAM also. I have had two warranty issues with Reverb posts and both times I was sent a new one. The first lasted almost one year and the second about six months. Post was purchased from local LBS and warrantied through them.

    I would be cautious about trying to rebuild the post yourself. Getting the end / valve off of the inner shaft is not as easy as it looks in the video with the soft jaw vise. Too bad SRAM did not design those parts to be dis-assembled with a couple of wrenches. The rebuild would be easy if that was the case.
    Portland Off Road Navagators

  98. #1398
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    ^ So the basic rebuild kit didn't take care of your sagging problem? My LBS isn't exactly close (25 miles one way) plus I didn't buy it through them but REI (but they are definitely taking care of me by attempting this warranty). I already contacted REI but they are not expecting any Reverbs in what I need (420x31.6x125 R).

    And I did call SRAM after talking with my LBS, I asked under what circumstances will they physically take it back for warranty purposes, but the guy made it sound like 90% of all warranty repairs is handled by the LBS, they just send parts out, seems kinda lazy on their part. They diagnose the problem with the LBS tech, but the tech doesn't know any more than what I told him.

    I'll try the rebuild kit myself, if not, I'm simply going to return it to REI and pick up a new one somewhere else. I'm not going to waste my time driving back and forth to the LBS while they diagnose it over the phone. Or be out $50 on having the LBS rebuild it, only to have it still sag. What hurts the most is that I'm in Chicago daily, I can drop off my Reverb myself to them.
    I think they did the full rebuild kit, but I'm not sure.

    I wouldn't have had 4 reverbs already if the LBS could fix'm. I don't know of one that has been sucessfully fixed by the LBSs from my ride crew.

    Yeah, sag is unacceptable.

    Good luck!

  99. #1399
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    Quote Originally Posted by bubba13 View Post

    I would be cautious about trying to rebuild the post yourself.
    You weren't kidding. Just finished watching the full rebuild 4 part video , lots and lots of o-rings. Looks doable but then again the farthest I've ever been in the suspension world is just new fluids or a simple brake bleed. Knowing myself, something would go wrong somewhere lol.

    Quote Originally Posted by CharacterZero View Post

    Good luck!
    Thanks, it just irks me to read people's experiences with SRAM have been the complete opposite of mine so far. Love my Reverb to death and will not ride without one now, but so far on the CS end (especially for what they are charging for the product), I'm left feeling a bit sour.

    IMO nothing compares to FOX CS service. You send in a fork for a creaking CSU, and you get it returned with a new CSU, complete service done on it, and brand new seals. But most importantly, no middle man to deal with.
    konahonzo

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    New question here. Stealth Hose Barb & Fitting Measurement?

    Have few questions for 150x430mm Stealth owners that I haven't been able to find despite searches - sorry if answered before. 30.9dia is ideal, but I'd guess the fitments are the same across both sizes.

    Can someone confirm how far out the hose connector & barb protector protrude from the bottom of the post?
    Am I right in assuming that they do not contribute to the 430mm length?
    What is the measurement from full extension rails to end of the hose barb?

    For context, I have an 09 Felt Compulsion with a funky interrupted seat tube, and the weld hole at the bottom would be perfect for a Stealth - but only if the fittings & hose barb are short enough to stay out of the way of the tube 'trapezoid' (for lack of a better term...). My 420mm Reverb suggests that I have ~20mm to play with tube-wise before bottoming out, so it's probably going to be a tight fit, if it's even possible. "2009.feltracing.com/09/images/catalog/xl/9057.png" shows the seat tube in question.

    Thanks in advance!
    fed

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