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  1. #301
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    Quote Originally Posted by ideate View Post
    Thank God. One less illiterate in this thread.

    Has anyone tried to 3d print a shim or similar to reduce its travel? It's just a bit of plastic after all?
    Apologies, I totally misunderstood what was being said and for some reason I thought it a good idea to comment too early upon a Sunday morn! In fact I completely failed to grasp even what I was saying! I guess I just responded to the negativity which isnt something I tend to do. I have edited and apologised so I hope there are no hard feelings.

    Maybe we both could have avoided the insults though?

    My main gripe with this thread is that a company like one up has created a great product at a fantastic price yet there are still people on there complaining about a part that was clearly stated as not being included with the post. Thats what really mind boggling to me!

    Anyway, as I say, Im sorry I misread things, Im going to blame lack of sleep and I hope we can move on in a positive light.

    Have a good ride!

    J

  2. #302
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    Quote Originally Posted by Just J View Post
    My main gripe with this thread is that a company like one up has created a great product at a fantastic price yet there are still people on there complaining about a part that was clearly stated as not being included with the post. Thats what really mind boggling to me!
    People wouldn't be pissed if it wasn't a hyped up feature and yet the shims have had availability problems since day 1. Which is ridiculous for such a simple and obviously cheap part. I doubt I am alone in feeling that they really should have included one with every post, and not sell a $0.50 item for $10. The post is cheap but spares are not.

  3. #303
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    Quote Originally Posted by TwoTone View Post
    Hmm I'm the moron? What was the whole point of a dropper again? Oh yea, be able to have your saddle at the proper pedaling position and then drop it without stopping.

    Can't do that if you bought a longer one that needed a shim and you can't get a shim.
    See below.

    Quote Originally Posted by ideate View Post
    You do realise you can stop it at any height with your butt?
    Holy shit, a person in this tread with common sense. You sir, are getting some rep points or whatever the hell thrown at you!

    Quote Originally Posted by Velodonata View Post
    So they make a new dropper post, promote it as having a unique feature that no other dropper post has. And that new feature requires a small and simple, but unique plastic part. Very likely one of the least expensive parts of the entire post.

    Since they must have known how many posts they had ordered from whomever it is that actually manufactures them, why did they order such an inadequate number of these shims? And why not just include them with every post anyway?
    I can't answer these questions but I'd guess it's because not everyone in the world needs a shim, so why supply a part at an added cost to them to everyone when not everyone needs one?! I mean, I guess they could have and just charged $250 for the dropper.

    I mean, why doesn't Apple just produce more iphones every fall when they do their launch? I know this is a crazy concept but sometimes things sell out. Sometimes thats due to unexpected demand, sometimes it's because the product launched before they had enough items to ship, sometimes it's because they're stuck on a cargo ship.
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  4. #304
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpeshulEd View Post
    I can't answer these questions but I'd guess it's because not everyone in the world needs a shim, so why supply a part at an added cost to them to everyone when not everyone needs one?! I mean, I guess they could have and just charged $250 for the dropper.

    I mean, why doesn't Apple just produce more iphones every fall when they do their launch? I know this is a crazy concept but sometimes things sell out. Sometimes thats due to unexpected demand, sometimes it's because the product launched before they had enough items to ship, sometimes it's because they're stuck on a cargo ship.
    You are digging deep here and coming up empty. They only charge $10 for the shim by itself, which seems like at least $9 too much for a little bit of plastic. How is that going to make the post $50 more expensive? And what does it have to do with iPhones? People are pissed because these things have been hard to get since release, it is a ridiculously simple part, and it was a hyped up feature. Why is that so hard to understand?

  5. #305
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    OneUp have agreed my dropper is faulty.

    Replacing it.

    I'm signing out of this thread ...some right D*ck heads on here.

  6. #306
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    Quote Originally Posted by Velodonata View Post
    You are digging deep here and coming up empty. They only charge $10 for the shim by itself, which seems like at least $9 too much for a little bit of plastic. How is that going to make the post $50 more expensive? And what does it have to do with iPhones? People are pissed because these things have been hard to get since release, it is a ridiculously simple part, and it was a hyped up feature. Why is that so hard to understand?
    Why is it so hard to understand that sometimes products sell out?

    I'm saying they could have just charged more for the dropper and thrown in the shim. Not everyone needs a shim though, so I'm sure if they had included the shim, we'd have people bitching, "why not just sell the post without the shim and sell it for less money?"

    I'm using the iPhone as an example of another item that usually sells out at launch. Like my other post that referenced Tickle-Me-Elmo and szechuan sauce. It was a comparison and a joke but apparently you're bad at jokes and reading comprehension.
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  7. #307
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    My post came with a shim and I bought some because I did not know it came with one.
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  8. #308
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpeshulEd View Post
    Why is it so hard to understand that sometimes products sell out?

    I'm saying they could have just charged more for the dropper and thrown in the shim. Not everyone needs a shim though, so I'm sure if they had included the shim, we'd have people bitching, "why not just sell the post without the shim and sell it for less money?"

    I'm using the iPhone as an example of another item that usually sells out at launch. Like my other post that referenced Tickle-Me-Elmo and szechuan sauce. It was a comparison and a joke but apparently you're bad at jokes and reading comprehension.
    Good news! It was never in question that this isn't the first item to ever sell out. Yes, the iPhone saga is common knowledge, my point was that it is a ridiculous comparison. Your projection based butthurt is confusing, why do you care if people are a bit miffed at OneUp?

  9. #309
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    Quote Originally Posted by Velodonata View Post
    Good news! It was never in question that this isn't the first item to ever sell out. Yes, the iPhone saga is common knowledge, my point was that it is a ridiculous comparison. Your projection based butthurt is confusing, why do you care if people are a bit miffed at OneUp?
    I don't care but I enjoy pointing out how stupid it is to shit all over a brand because an item is out of stock.
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  10. #310
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    Anyone see an issue with having the One Up dropper in the DOWN position for extended periods? If Im not riding my bike is under the cap of my truck in a rack. It is soooo much easier to get the bike in and out with the post dropped but it is usually a few days between rides for me. Dont want to mess up the post due to convenience.

    Also for those that have noticed some play, I know this is elementary, but check your seat clamps. I had a bit is wiggle but it was not in the post itself. Gave the seat clamp bolts a half turn each and it went away. Just a thought.

    J-

  11. #311
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    Quote Originally Posted by jjc155 View Post
    Anyone see an issue with having the One Up dropper in the DOWN position for extended periods? If Im not riding my bike is under the cap of my truck in a rack. It is soooo much easier to get the bike in and out with the post dropped but it is usually a few days between rides for me. Dont want to mess up the post due to convenience.

    Also for those that have noticed some play, I know this is elementary, but check your seat clamps. I had a bit is wiggle but it was not in the post itself. Gave the seat clamp bolts a half turn each and it went away. Just a thought.

    J-
    I stored my bike for a week with the post down. I won't do it again. The remote was really stiff like the post did not want to actuate and it took a lot of force on the remote to get it to pop back up.

  12. #312
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    I bought shims thinking I would need them but the design of the post allowed me to use full travel. I have three. Id consider splitting them up for $75 a piece if youre complaining about the price and the fact that they arent included. If you realize its a good product at a great price then Id sell 2 for $15 shipped lol
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  13. #313
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    Quote Originally Posted by beer_coffee_water View Post
    I stored my bike for a week with the post down. I won't do it again. The remote was really stiff like the post did not want to actuate and it took a lot of force on the remote to get it to pop back up.
    Copy thanks.

    J-

  14. #314
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    Got my post and remote today, shim is included, not that I need it.
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  15. #315
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    Post is installed and test ride went well, proper ride coming tonight

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  16. #316
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    Quote Originally Posted by jjc155 View Post
    Anyone see an issue with having the One Up dropper in the DOWN position for extended periods? If Im not riding my bike is under the cap of my truck in a rack. It is soooo much easier to get the bike in and out with the post dropped but it is usually a few days between rides for me. Dont want to mess up the post due to convenience.

    Also for those that have noticed some play, I know this is elementary, but check your seat clamps. I had a bit is wiggle but it was not in the post itself. Gave the seat clamp bolts a half turn each and it went away. Just a thought.

    J-
    This is funny, earlier I mentioned that my post is flawless but did have a 1/8mm of play it so. Barely distinguishable but there. Nevertheless, it was the saddle clamp and not the post. Zero play on mine. Stantions are still great as well with no marks even tho I've crashed the bike a few times etc. Post is still flawless so far. The only thing I do to baby it, is never picking the bike up by the post/saddle without the post full extended.

  17. #317
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    Second One Up in the garage, this time on my Switchblade and coupled with a Wolf Tooth lever. Absolutely perfection, feels awesome!






  18. #318
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    I actually have two Crank Brothers Highlines 160mm and this One Up Dropper 170mm, so my comparison base is small, but here are some points:
    * Love the speed of the One Up, Highline is slow in comparison (no biggie for me)
    * Highline is smooth, One Up feels "grindy" in comparison
    * Install of cable mechanism onto dropper - One Up is easier, Highline can be problematic
    * Lever pull/feel - no problem with either, both are cable operated with barrel adjusters
    * Lever Mechanism - l dont feel the need to change/upgrade either, they are both ok for me, One Up has the IS option to mount directly onto brake lever, this wouldn't put the lever where l want it though, Highline has a lot of adjustment available
    * Looks - both are black, Highline has a silver collar (l believe other colours are available)
    * Highline is stiff and feels solid, One Up l notice some flex in the post and it doesnt have the solid feel of the Highline, flex is not a bad thing on a Hardtail but how will it effect the post over a longer time? (Im around 96kgs kitted)
    * I paid - Highline 254, One Up 225
    * Warranty - Highline 3yrs, One Up 2yrs
    * Highline came with stickers (for my toolbox ), One Up none

    Im not going to say one is better than the other, as both could be improved, and lve only had two "real"" rides on the One Up, so I cant comment on longevity.
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  19. #319
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    Has anyone noticed that when seated the post takes a bit more effort to activate? Vital noted this in their review also.

    With barely any weight or just the weight of pushing it down by hand, lever activation is smooth as can be to drop the post. But fully weighted, you can feel the extra effort needed in the lever and then it brake loose and the post will drop.

    I suppose not a huge deal, although I've only one ride on mine. But this isn't something I've ever noticed on any other dropper I've ever tried. Levs, Transfers, etc. all of them activation was the same regardless of being weighted or not.
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  20. #320
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    Quote Originally Posted by rscecil007 View Post
    Has anyone noticed that when seated the post takes a bit more effort to activate? Vital noted this in their review also.

    With barely any weight or just the weight of pushing it down by hand, lever activation is smooth as can be to drop the post. But fully weighted, you can feel the extra effort needed in the lever and then it brake loose and the post will drop.

    I suppose not a huge deal, although I've only one ride on mine. But this isn't something I've ever noticed on any other dropper I've ever tried. Levs, Transfers, etc. all of them activation was the same regardless of being weighted or not.
    Are you talking about extra force in the lever or post? I'm experiencing neither tho I'm 195lbs and using wolf tooth LA remote.

    What is your seat psi at? I didn't like the Fox transfer, was too slow. You might try adjusting the psi.

  21. #321
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    A bit of extra force at the lever when weighted. Using a Wolftooth LA lever as well.
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  22. #322
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    I absolutely have this problem. And also using a wolf tooth standard lever.


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  23. #323
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    I believe this problem has nothing to do with the lever.
    I suggest due to the force your weight puts on the post (not directly down the post but at an angle, red arrow) the post binds up a little, "de-weight" a little and its fine.
    Try loading the post up (directly along the post, green arrow) and I guess it wont be an issue.

    Bad news for me is, during this mornings commute I dropped rode a nice trail, but the dropper never returned , I had to pull it up by hand.
    Will check the pressure tonight.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails OneUp dropper post-dropper.jpg  

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  24. #324
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    Quote Originally Posted by cmg71 View Post
    I believe this problem has nothing to do with the lever.
    I suggest due to the force your weight puts on the post (not directly down the post but at an angle, red arrow) the post binds up a little, "de-weight" a little and its fine.
    Try loading the post up (directly along the post, green arrow) and I guess it wont be an issue.

    Bad news for me is, during this mornings commute I dropped rode a nice trail, but the dropper never returned , I had to pull it up by hand.
    Will check the pressure tonight.
    I agree it has nothing to do with the lever.

    I contacted OneUp about it and they said it was a nuance of a cartridge system, but, as I said to them, I never had this issue with my LEV which was also a cartridge. Also never had the issue with a Reverb, Xfusion Hilo or Brand X Ascend.

    I think this post is just okay and is made to a price point, rather than for quality. The length is good, the low profile is good and the travel adjust shims would be good, if they came with the post, but otherwise it does not seem any better, and may even be worse, than the Brand X Ascend whilst being considerably dearer.

    At this stage I would possibly buy it again, but I would like to see how long these things last in the wild.


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  25. #325
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    Checked it at home, only about 150psi in it, worked perfectly on Saturday.
    Pumped it up to 300psi and works again.
    Bit of a worry......

    Will post updates about this.
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  26. #326
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    About the stiction issue: I've found that most droppers will go down easier (by hand) if you press on the nose of the saddle. This is true in my experience with Fox, KS, and RS.

    The opposite is true of the Oneup. It does not respond well to pressure on the nose of the saddle. It's much happier if the pressure is inline with the angle of the seat tube.

    My post also lost air over the first couple months. It doesn't seem to operate quite as smoothly as it did when new. Only time will tell how it holds up long term.
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  27. #327
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    I've had mine for a couple of rides and its been great. I ordered it with the One Up lever. Only complaint about it would be the lever. I should've ordered the Wolftooth.

    Mine also came with the shim.

    I had to look up how to install it because I had no idea how to. I either lost the instructions or it didn't come with any:


  28. #328
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    Quote Originally Posted by *OneSpeed* View Post
    My post also lost air over the first couple months. It doesn't seem to operate quite as smoothly as it did when new. Only time will tell how it holds up long term.
    this is not news I wanted to here

    Im wondering if a little oil (maybe grease) would help the "grindy" feeling mine seems to have?
    (maybe Im totally overthinking it? and shouldn't compare it to the smoothness of the Highline....)


    anyway Im thinking a thicker oil in these spots (screenshot from vid above) may help, anybody done this?
    Attached Images Attached Images  
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  29. #329
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    I have put Slicko under there.
    OneUp recommended this to dull the side to side play I had in my post from new.
    Definitely felt smoother at first, but the grease seems to work its way out pretty quickly.


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  30. #330
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    Rigid SS 29er
    SS 29+
    Fat Lefty
    SS cyclocross
    Full Sus 29er (Yuck)

    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

  31. #331
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    Quote Originally Posted by *OneSpeed* View Post
    I have this stuff at home, for suspension forks, it is very runny though, I will give it a try

    https://www.brunox.com/website/productpages/Deo-en.html
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  32. #332
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    Quote Originally Posted by cmg71 View Post
    I have this stuff at home, for suspension forks, it is very runny though, I will give it a try

    https://www.brunox.com/website/productpages/Deo-en.html
    It appears to have helped quite a bit, post feels smoother, so last night I added some more
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  33. #333
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    Quote Originally Posted by rscecil007 View Post
    From what I understood (had a bad phone connection early in the call), he said the Oneup dropper has a pretty short throw on it to begin with, so the LA version can almost be too light, and the normal gives a better feel. I actually have both, and have mine set up with the LA now, but will probably try the other one. I will say it doesn't take much movement of the LA lever to get the post to activate.
    I have what feels like the world's longest throw on mine with the LA before it does anything to my post. I wonder why mines so weird and no one else has had issues

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  34. #334
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    Quote Originally Posted by evanofd View Post
    I have what feels like the world's longest throw on mine with the LA before it does anything to my post. I wonder why mines so weird and no one else has had issues

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    Did you do the install? Sounds like a cable issue. When you insert the post you need to keep tension on the cable and housing. I'm guessing you've true tightening your cable at the lever, but if you haven't I'd do that first.

  35. #335
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    Quote Originally Posted by svinyard View Post
    Did you do the install? Sounds like a cable issue. When you insert the post you need to keep tension on the cable and housing. I'm guessing you've true tightening your cable at the lever, but if you haven't I'd do that first.
    I'll try that as soon as I get home tomorrow. Thank you. It also sticks half the time going up and it's only a month old with maybe 10 hours of riding on it so idk why it's doing that but my guess is it's tied in with the cable tension being off

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  36. #336
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    Quote Originally Posted by evanofd View Post
    I'll try that as soon as I get home tomorrow. Thank you. It also sticks half the time going up and it's only a month old with maybe 10 hours of riding on it so idk why it's doing that but my guess is it's tied in with the cable tension being off

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    Pump ot up to 300psi, put some lubricant on it (see above), that helped my issues
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  37. #337
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    I'm wondering if everyone is checking the Psi when they install or if that is getting skipped. Let us know what your psi is Evan, hopefully that is the quick fix.

  38. #338
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stalkerfiveo View Post
    If it helps with your decision, a buddy recently broke his Bikeyoke just below the seat mount head. No crash involved.


    Attachment 1197500
    This post is from a long time ago, yet Id like to explain myself.
    Bringing up this example without context seems a little unfair. This post has been installed with the saddle clamps reversed (front side back), which explicitly is not allowed!
    First thing Ive asked was, if the rider was OK. Ive asked him several questions, and told him, that wed replace this post regardless, of what happened. I just wanted honest answers to my questions. It is true, that the customer said, no crash was involved, and he never crashed before with this post either.

    Anyway, no product is 100% perfect.
    To give numbers, which probably no other company wants to give away:
    We do have a total of 121 reported issues (I just checked) with one of our REVIVES from customers, that required handling through one of our distributors or service centers. This number includes "issues" that were caused by customers themselves (lack of service, expose to water/salt, opening the post then not get it back together, releasing oil, ...), that were not actually a problem of the post, but caused by the customer. I will not speak of how many posts weve sold exactly up do date, but please let me assure, that those 121 posts mean way less than a 1% failure rate. Feel free to make your own image from that. I know numbers of several other companies and despite this failure rate could make us proud, I still feel bad for every customer, who needs to contact me about an issue - simply because we want to get better. Our goal, which we naturally can never achieve, is to have 0 failure rate from our side.
    Naturally, most of the issues identified as problems with the hydraulics (which can happen), and weve had barely no structural issue reports.
    That what you can see in the picture has happened (I believe out of the top of my head) less than 5 times. I remember in two or three cases the saddle was clamped way too far back (rails were already clamped at the beginning of the bend). In this case, the seat clamps were installed reversed. I guess, what I want to say is, that it is highly unlikely that the head of the post snaps out of a sudden for no reason.
    Last edited by sacki; 3 Weeks Ago at 01:38 AM.
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  39. #339
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    do you think it will work with one up dropper?
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    Quote Originally Posted by rscecil007 View Post
    Has anyone noticed that when seated the post takes a bit more effort to activate? Vital noted this in their review also.

    With barely any weight or just the weight of pushing it down by hand, lever activation is smooth as can be to drop the post. But fully weighted, you can feel the extra effort needed in the lever and then it brake loose and the post will drop.

    I suppose not a huge deal, although I've only one ride on mine. But this isn't something I've ever noticed on any other dropper I've ever tried. Levs, Transfers, etc. all of them activation was the same regardless of being weighted or not.
    That is normal and comes from the extra pressure, which you generate in the lockout (hydrulic) chamber, when sitting on the post with all your weight.
    To open the valve, the pressure inside the hydraulic chmber needs to be overcome and more pressure means more force required.
    Every hydraulically locked post shows this behaviour more or less, same as shocks with lockout lever. The lever is usually harder to engange, when sitting on the bike compared to when the bike is without rider.
    For our REVIVE posts we advice to unweight the saddle slightly, before engaging the remote. Actually, Ive never done otherwise anyway, so I hardly get in situatione, where I cna feel it during real life use.

    Quote Originally Posted by cmg71 View Post
    I believe this problem has nothing to do with the lever.
    I suggest due to the force your weight puts on the post (not directly down the post but at an angle, red arrow) the post binds up a little, "de-weight" a little and its fine.
    Try loading the post up (directly along the post, green arrow) and I guess it wont be an issue.

    Bad news for me is, during this mornings commute I dropped rode a nice trail, but the dropper never returned , I had to pull it up by hand.
    Will check the pressure tonight.
    Very good advice, as this will make action smoother and goes easy on the post: A post should always be pushed in line with the stanchion/seattube, but this is not what causes the phenomenon decribed above.

    Cheers
    Sacki
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    Quote Originally Posted by *OneSpeed* View Post


    Please never ever use this and/or smilar products on any suspension component on the long term - neither fork nor shock nor post.
    This will flush/wash out the (very important) grease from your wipers and cause the suspension products to work even worse after the initial lubrication wears off - which is usually very quickly.
    Yes, it does feel good pretty nice right after applying, but I do not recommend any of those, as it wont be good on the long run.
    I think the guys from One Up will agree.
    Last edited by sacki; 3 Weeks Ago at 01:40 AM.
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  42. #342
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    Quote Originally Posted by cmg71 View Post
    I have this stuff at home, for suspension forks, it is very runny though, I will give it a try


    https://www.brunox.com/website/productpages/Deo-en.html
    Same here. DO NOT use this in your fork! Please!
    Last edited by sacki; 3 Weeks Ago at 01:41 AM.
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  43. #343
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    Quote Originally Posted by suke001 View Post
    do you think it will work with one up dropper?
    https://www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/...izontal-630620
    Are you asking me?
    I cant tell for sure (Im not from One Up), but if it allows clamping the cable on the remote end, I dont see a reason why it should not work.
    However, Id opt for something more worthy, if I wanted to install it on a One Up dropper.
    Last edited by sacki; 3 Weeks Ago at 01:36 AM.
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  44. #344
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    Quote Originally Posted by svinyard View Post
    I'm wondering if everyone is checking the Psi when they install or if that is getting skipped. Let us know what your psi is Evan, hopefully that is the quick fix.
    So I finally got time today to look at it and I adjusted tension on the cable along with messing with the seat clamp tension and that seems to have done the trick. The post was at around 290-300psi. So no issue there. It did seem to be running a little dry but a flip upside down for 10 minutes and it was smooth as hell.

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  45. #345
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    Quote Originally Posted by evanofd View Post
    So I finally got time today to look at it and I adjusted tension on the cable along with messing with the seat clamp tension and that seems to have done the trick. The post was at around 290-300psi. So no issue there. It did seem to be running a little dry but a flip upside down for 10 minutes and it was smooth as hell.

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    Sweet dude. Flipping your bike is good for your Fork as well

  46. #346
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    Quote Originally Posted by sacki View Post
    I think the guys from One Up will agree.
    Thanks for chiming in Sacki. Nice to have some factual posts from a competitor. Stoked that you guys are making a good run. Cheers.

    Quote Originally Posted by suke001 View Post
    do you think it will work with one up dropper?
    https://www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/...izontal-630620
    That lever won't work as our cable clamp is at the lever end (that one is reversed). Out of curiosity, why are you not considering the OneUp lever? VitalMTB aside, it's getting really good reviews:

    https://www.oneupcomponents.com/coll...per-post-lever

    The position is different but I'd never go back. New XTR thinks it's the ideal placement as well.

    Cheers,
    Jon @ OneUp

  47. #347
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    Quote Originally Posted by OneUp View Post
    Thanks for chiming in Sacki. Nice to have some factual posts from a competitor. Stoked that you guys are making a good run. Cheers.


    Cheers,
    Jon @ OneUp
    Hey Jon,

    What is you opinion/advice regarding the addition of oils/grease to the post?
    To turning the bike upside down?
    Is there a product One Up recommends for lubricating the Dropper?

    Cheers
    Chris


    @Sacki, l had a hard time following your posts, maybe in future quote the post you answer, or multi-quote and reply to all in one post.
    (but then again it might my stupidity that made it hard to keep up)
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  48. #348
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    I also had a hard time figuring that stuff out Sacki (still do) but also have a ton of respect for the work that you do so I'm interested in it.

    OneUp Jon, I'd second the interest. I'm guessing something like Oneball stantion oil like Fox uses perhaps?

  49. #349
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    Quote Originally Posted by cmg71 View Post
    @Sacki, l had a hard time following your posts, maybe in future quote the post you answer, or multi-quote and reply to all in one post.
    (but then again it might my stupidity that made it hard to keep up)
    Quote Originally Posted by svinyard View Post
    I also had a hard time figuring that stuff out Sacki (still do) but also have a ton of respect for the work that you do so I'm interested in it.

    OneUp Jon, I'd second the interest. I'm guessing something like Oneball stantion oil like Fox uses perhaps?
    Oh, sorry, for some reason I managed to not quote properly. I added the corresponding quotes to my posts. Should be easier to understand now, I hope.
    Sorry for the confusion.
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  50. #350
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    Thanks mate, easier to follow now
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  51. #351
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    I'm tempted to try the One Up lever as the placement makes sense to me but I wish they'd make a more sturdy alloy version.

  52. #352
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    Quote Originally Posted by sacki View Post
    Please never ever use this and/or smilar products on any suspension component on the long term - neither fork nor shock nor post.
    This will flush/wash out the (very important) grease from your wipers and cause the suspension products to work even worse after the initial lubrication wears off - which is usually very quickly.
    Yes, it does feel good pretty nice right after applying, but I do not recommend any of those, as it wont be good on the long run.
    I think the guys from One Up will agree.
    Interesting. Good to know, thanks for the heads up.

    I don't understand why companies make stuff like this. It sounds like it's the WD-40 of the suspension world. (not to be used anywhere you want actual lubrication)

    Quote Originally Posted by OneUp View Post
    Thanks for chiming in Sacki. Nice to have some factual posts from a competitor. Stoked that you guys are making a good run. Cheers.
    Jon,

    What do you recommend to keep the OneUp dropper post lubricated? Both of mine have started to get sticky/binding at the top.

    Thanks
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  53. #353
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    Quote Originally Posted by sacki View Post
    Please never ever use this and/or smilar products on any suspension component on the long term - neither fork nor shock nor post.
    This will flush/wash out the (very important) grease from your wipers and cause the suspension products to work even worse after the initial lubrication wears off - which is usually very quickly.
    Yes, it does feel good pretty nice right after applying, but I do not recommend any of those, as it wont be good on the long run.
    I think the guys from One Up will agree.
    Curious as to your opinion on slick honey?
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  54. #354
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    Quote Originally Posted by *OneSpeed* View Post
    What do you recommend to keep the OneUp dropper post lubricated?
    Quote Originally Posted by TwoTone View Post
    Curious as to your opinion on slick honey?
    Slickoleum (SRAM butter) or Slick Honey are our recommended options.

  55. #355
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    Can someone post up the dimensions of the shim? I think I'm going to cut out my own vs waiting for an overpriced part. Looks near 50mm wide?

  56. #356
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    Quote Originally Posted by OneUp View Post
    Slickoleum (SRAM butter) or Slick Honey are our recommended options.
    do you apply the lube under the top collar?
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  57. #357
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    Quote Originally Posted by Klainmeister View Post
    Can someone post up the dimensions of the shim? I think I'm going to cut out my own vs waiting for an overpriced part. Looks near 50mm wide?
    Going by name you are in Europe, l can send you mine, l dont need it
    PM me
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  58. #358
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    or on Monday l can post the dimensions

    Sorry going to the mountains tomorrow (WOOHOO!)
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  59. #359
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    For anyone else who wants to do this, i figured it out and tested it:

    horizontal top: 48mm
    vertical height: 52mm

    each leg is approx 5mm wide.
    top bar is 3mm or so.

    Just took a yogurt lid and cut it was a razor, installed, good to go.

  60. #360
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    Considering this dropper ro replace my reverb, that is making weird sounds.
    One question: I got Sram Guide R brakes. Should I get a clamp version of the remote? Or is MMX going to fit?

  61. #361
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    I believe something is wrong with actuator assembly with my out of the box one up.
    I just simply can't find a way to fit a cable.
    https://1drv.ms/u/s!Aj6i7jIh7hV_g-0-xArQYCUFDQGgwg

  62. #362
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cocabonga View Post
    I believe something is wrong with actuator assembly with my out of the box one up.
    I just simply can't find a way to fit a cable.
    https://1drv.ms/u/s!Aj6i7jIh7hV_g-0-xArQYCUFDQGgwg
    Remove the o-ring, slip in the ball end of the cable into the whole and use the slit for the cable, put o-ring back on.

  63. #363
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    Actuator is assemblied incorrectly from the factory. I can't slip the end barrel of the cable into the actuator. Check the picture. Now I am thinking how to make it right.

  64. #364
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    Looking at the wrench flats of the actuator, I'd say somebody already messed with the post. If you look at the service instructions, it shows you how to take the actuator off. Once off, the pice can be removed and turned the right way.

  65. #365
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    Quote Originally Posted by Red Rock View Post
    Looking at the wrench flats of the actuator, I'd say somebody already messed with the post. If you look at the service instructions, it shows you how to take the actuator off. Once off, the pice can be removed and turned the right way.
    That was me, I tried to unscrew it but could not even make a turn, wrench just slips of, its aluminum assebly...
    Are you talking about this instructions:
    https://can.oneupcomponents.com/page...e-instructions
    This is one falls in category: shittiest instruction in the world. Which way to turn the actuator, clockwise or counter clockwise? What is the torque to tighten it back? What is the torque to tighten pin screws?
    And the installation instruction have no pictures, how would I find out the wrongly assembled part if there is no picture how it should look correctly? I have a bit of disappointment at the moment with this product.

  66. #366
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    Hey man, you should make a quick video of this as it's super hard to tell if something is wrong. It was my first dropper install for me and watching the video on YouTube made it go really fast and easy. I assume you've watched the video below?

    https://youtu.be/2Vv-sBnZBs0

  67. #367
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    I might suggest to my son to start printing shims with his 3D printer. He could charge $5 including shipping.
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  68. #368
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    *mistake

  69. #369
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cocabonga View Post
    I believe something is wrong with actuator assembly with my out of the box one up.
    I just simply can't find a way to fit a cable.
    https://1drv.ms/u/s!Aj6i7jIh7hV_g-0-xArQYCUFDQGgwg
    Hey Cocabonga, Sorry for the confusion. The tip of the actuator is on backwards. You just need to pull it off by hand, turn 180deg and push it back on. Next insert the 'ball' end of the cable per the instructions.

    I haven't seen this mistake in assembly before. Is there any chance you had the tip off?

    I hope that helps,
    Jon @ OneUp

  70. #370
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    Quote Originally Posted by cmg71 View Post
    or on Monday l can post the dimensions
    Quote Originally Posted by Klainmeister View Post
    For anyone else who wants to do this, i figured it out and tested it:

    horizontal top: 48mm
    vertical height: 52mm

    each leg is approx 5mm wide.
    top bar is 3mm or so.

    Just took a yogurt lid and cut it was a razor, installed, good to go.
    Quote Originally Posted by TwoTone View Post
    I might suggest to my son to start printing shims with his 3D printer. He could charge $5 including shipping.
    Hey guys,

    Here are the shim dimensions. It you are handy enough to make one up go for it. We do sell them with every remote and three packs will be back in stock around Sept 25.

    You can find zipties that are about the right cross section and use three as well.

    Why they aren't with the post is a long story but it certainly isn't an attempt to gouge anyone.

    OneUp dropper post-shim.png

    Cheers,
    Jon @ OneUp

  71. #371
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    Quote Originally Posted by OneUp View Post
    Hey Cocabonga, Sorry for the confusion. The tip of the actuator is on backwards. You just need to pull it off by hand, turn 180deg and push it back on. Next insert the 'ball' end of the cable per the instructions.

    I haven't seen this mistake in assembly before. Is there any chance you had the tip off?

    I hope that helps,
    Jon @ OneUp
    Thank you, however I learned it hard way. I dissasembled lower actuator, but aluminum is so soft, that wrenches were slipping off. The only winner in this fight was pipe wrench, but now actuator is ugly. So I have it unscrewed and found out that that lower tip is not bolted at all and could have been pulled out by hand without actuator removal.
    It so bad there is no even exploded view available for this post.

    Отправлено с моего SM-A520F через Tapatalk

  72. #372
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    Maybe a silly question-does it matter if the post is extended or dropped when I adjust the air pressure?

  73. #373
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cocabonga View Post
    Thank you, however I learned it hard way. I dissasembled lower actuator, but aluminum is so soft, that wrenches were slipping off. The only winner in this fight was pipe wrench, but now actuator is ugly. So I have it unscrewed and found out that that lower tip is not bolted at all and could have been pulled out by hand without actuator removal.
    Sorry to see that. Hit us up at info@oneupcomponents.com and we'll get you a replacement actuator assembly.

  74. #374
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    Quote Originally Posted by jstuhlman View Post
    Maybe a silly question-does it matter if the post is extended or dropped when I adjust the air pressure?
    Yes it does. The post needs to be fully extended when setting/adjusting pressure.

    Cheers
    Jon @ OneUp

  75. #375
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    I'd just send that guy a new post and have him send that screwy one back OneUp. He put the time in to do it on his own with limited resources and fought the good fight but didn't work. That would be my expectation of solid support for a new post. That would make me a repeat customer but anything less would be frustrating since it's all brand new stuff.

  76. #376
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    As a note, 3 days mtb-ing around the Swiss, Austrian & Italian borders and the dropper worked flawlessly, and it was used a lot.

    Quote Originally Posted by OneUp View Post
    Hey Cocabonga, Sorry for the confusion. The tip of the actuator is on backwards. You just need to pull it off by hand, turn 180deg and push it back on. Next insert the 'ball' end of the cable per the instructions.
    Jon @ OneUp
    I did this with the install, I put the actuator tip on the cable first, then turned and mounted it 180deg out, theoretically not needing the o-ring, I mounted the o-ring though anyway.
    The cable ball is now "locked" in and cannot come out without removing the actuator tip.
    For me this was a logical move.
    Last edited by cmg71; 1 Week Ago at 08:34 PM.
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  77. #377
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    Quote Originally Posted by cmg71 View Post
    I did this with the install, I put the actuator tip on the cable first, then turned and mounted it 180deg out, theoretically not needing the o-ring, I mounted the o-ring though anyway.
    The cable ball is now "locked" in and cannot come out without removing the actuator tip.
    For me this was a logical move.
    As did i, any reason not to install it like this? Or should i go and flip the actuator tip before riding just to be safe?

  78. #378
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    Quote Originally Posted by j0nttu View Post
    As did i, any reason not to install it like this? Or should i go and flip the actuator tip before riding just to be safe?
    What's gonna happen if you don't?
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  79. #379
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    I thought I will give my opinion on the 170mm OneUp dropper post.

    I've had a 150mm Fox Transfer for over a year but Oneup attracted my attention because its lower stack (so more room when I slam it down).

    Now, I've read a lot of good opinions about this post and I have a couple of Oneup products and generally I'm happy about them. However, this post is just rubbish.

    - this is my second, brand new, oneup dropper. The first one was faulty out of the box. Horrible grind when compressed and extended
    - the second one doesn't grind as much but is far from buttery smooth. I read a few opinions on some forums people comparing it to Fox Transfer saying it's as good/smooth. It's not true. You can feel friction at all times, quite similar to Giant dropper in this regard. Fox just feel friction-less in comparison. It's something you don't miss until you experience it. Saying that, I can live with this if you give me low stack in return.
    - The absolute dealbreaker to me is related to clamping. I found that anything over 3nm on seat collar causes the dropper to either not return fully (e.g. it stops 80%) or slow return or just give more friction/grind. My frame recommendation is ~5-6nm btw. Now, I wouldn't have a problem to go by with 3nm or whatever if the (seat)post stayed in place when I ride - but it doesn't. Sorry but how the hell this post the quality control with such major flaw?!
    - I use Wolftooth remote and the lever motion is just way harder & less smooth than with Fox transfer. I suspect this is because Oneup moves the outer rather than inner cable to trigger the dropper - which imo is just stupid design
    - the dropper is super sensitive to inner cable tension. anything under or over a certain tension and it behaves odd
    - shims is still out of stock after 2 months of ordering. Seriously, being out of stock with (very overpriced) piece of plastic that you advertise as the main selling point?!
    - smaller issues. Return speed isn't as fast as I would like to (air pressure ~270psi), and the pop when it gets fully extended isn't as loud as I would like. Small things and not dealbrakers.

    The post is going back where it came from. I love the low stack but Oneup needs to get back to the drawing board; bad design, bad quality control and bad execution. Even at half price it's money wasted if it doesn't work properly.

  80. #380
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    This is starting to sound like my experience with the X-fusion Manic.

    Published reviews are 100% positive. Everyone claims the post is a simplified, dead reliable game-changer at the $200 price point.

    And you know what? It ****ing sucked. Lots of complaints about having to keep watch the torque on the seatpost clamp (FYI for manufacturers: if your dropper is sensitive to this, your dropper is shit), and I had constant issues with the seat rail clamp. The absolute nastiest, creakiest shit I've ever dealt with. So bad that the saddle actually slowly gets less comfortable...and when you go to adjust it, you realize one clamp bolt is now absurdly tight (usually the front one). The extended post had a mildly worrying amount of slack (bushing play; not rotational) when new, and after a few months is absolutely terrible.

    One of the most obnoxious, telling things? The chinesium cable end. Supposed to be a 2mm, but made so sloppy that it would just strip out with any torque at all (was using an unworn Snap-on socket, so no, not the tool's fault), so the cable kept slipping until I replaced the damn thing myself.

    I just fitted a BikeYoke to my other bike, and I could lean HARD on that thing without rounding the stupid little grub screw out. Like, really, X-fusion? You couldn't spend two cents more to make the post work out of the box? Also, the BikeYoke could be installed with the cut cable end at the lever (...which I didn't know until too late), WHICH SHOULD BE THE INDUSTRY STANDARD. WHO DESIGNS THIS STUPID CRAP?!

    ...sorry. Yeah. Droppers are still a frustrating market. It's not that ****ing hard to build a post with a good bushing/stanchion interface (...most fork manufacturers have had this figured out for a while...?), a quality seat clamp, and a release mech not made of cast or MIM pot metal.

  81. #381
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    Oh, and BTW, just so I don't sound like a BikeYoke fanboy: I think the broken post pictured above is horseshit, too. How did a reversed clamp cause that, when the seat isn't even slammed all the way in either direction? I see no way in which clamp orientation causes that- that is straight up just a case of the material not coping with the stresses induced by the rider. Maybe he's really heavy, maybe he leans hard on the back of the saddle, whatever. It shouldn't matter.

    There's a reason dropper manufacturers don't want to offer setback posts: they can't even get a straight one to be reliable. It is so damn strange that the whole POINT of a dropper is to give you a proper seating position while pedaling...but oh, please don't lean on it too hard. It can't really take your weight. And those millimeters of play that, IMO, are critical to the setup of a bike that you actually pedal? Yeah, just don't worry about those...

  82. #382
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    ^ these guys know how to rant! Kudos!

    Some valid complaints above. I've experienced a couple myself. The shim thing is effin ridiculous. (for the record I don't need a shim, I use a 170 at full length with room to spare). It should come free with every post, period. It also should not have been made available until the shims were available. Big mistake IMO.

    That said, with regards to the low stack design, it's brilliant. The design addressed multiple flaws in other dropper designs that have been ignored for years. It's a big step in the right direction and OneUp should get credit for every manufacturer following suit... 2 years later. Believe me, it will happen.

    I think that people need to keep in mind that this is a first gen product. It's not perfect but offers great value and opens a few doors for people who want to maximize their saddle drop. No doubt the next gen will address some of the issues being discussed here, but as long as the OneUp customer service is good, hopefully they can retain customers with issues.

    side note: while I agree the Fox transfer post is one of the best on the market, you can't service it at home. Only an authorized Fox service center with the appropriate tools (which aren't cheap) can do it. The OneUp cartridge is much more user friendly.

    It's all good info though. Thanks for sharing guys.
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    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

  83. #383
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    ...I may have got on a bit of a tangent there.

    It's just frustrating that droppers have been in their 'infancy' for years now. Companies keep coming to market with new posts...sometimes their second or third generation...and yelling 'Eureka! We've finally done it! Take this one to the bank, boys!' And we keep getting disappointed.

    It's symptomatic of the bike industry as a whole. It reminds me of why I quit playing video games; at least you get like four usually-trouble-free years out of a Playstation now before it's forced into obsolescence. But the games? The day one patches for the games still in beta, that people pay to test? That may never really work right? Yeah, that seems like a painfully close analogy...

  84. #384
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    Quote Originally Posted by *OneSpeed* View Post
    Some valid complaints above. I've experienced a couple myself. The shim thing is effin ridiculous. (for the record I don't need a shim, I use a 170 at full length with room to spare). It should come free with every post, period. It also should not have been made available until the shims were available. Big mistake IMO.

    That said, with regards to the low stack design, it's brilliant. The design addressed multiple flaws in other dropper designs that have been ignored for years. It's a big step in the right direction and OneUp should get credit for every manufacturer following suit... 2 years later. Believe me, it will happen.
    I agree about the shim, ridiculous. But a nice idea if you need it.

    But BikeYoke was already all over the low stack height, they had managed to make a 160mm fit where most 150mm posts couldn't. Their dimensions are very similar to OneUp for fitment versatility. I replaced a 125mm 9Point8 with a 160mm BikeYoke for that reason. And because I find it to be the best designed post on the market, completely user serviceable and rebuildable. Nothing disposable. And the Revive feature is fantastic.

  85. #385
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    Right, if published reviews are 100% positive and "some" users' reviews are positive too than it clearly proves the i/net is full of horse $hit and needs a reset ;-)

    I totally agree, low stack is the way forward but just to note that Oneup hasn't invented a wheel. Yes their dropper has the lowest stack but other posts are close e.g. bikeyoke 37mm vs 42mm going by the info on their respective websites. Oneup is not that cheap either if you add up lack of packaging/instructions/bits (not a biggie), my wasted itme, no shims. That's easy over 200 when you add all these up and all of the sudden the price is not far off from other posts.

    I was considering Bikeyoke too but the only thing that put me off is bleeding. I know it's pretty simple but how often do you have to do it? every ride? Would you recommend this dropper?

    Don't even start with video games! :-) I've been a gamer for a long time and hate to see what happened to the industry....$$$ driven greed is really destroying it. There are some good ones but there soooo much $hite. I would go even as far as saying that bike industry is not far of. Bikes for 7k? seriously?! I built Devinci Spartan and it cost me ~3k, love this bike but still think it should be ~1.5k max. They b$hit you with sweet talk about costs of custom design and what nots, then you get a dropper that fails at basic levels and makes you wonder if 5yrs old was designing it - and surely nobody testing it. And all this laced up with pretty much mass production from shimano/sram anyway. Yes carbon frames are more expensive to make but c'mon these folks in Asia are paid like 30c per hour to make it. There is a reason why there are so many bike bike companies popping out all of the sudden - they can sniff $$$ / high profit margins. Slightly of the topic.

    As a customer I don't really care whether it's 1st, 2nd or 5th gen. I want a reliable product that does what it supposed to. Droppers been around for a while and it's not a rocket science. Btw, when do you know which gen. is the "finished" one? are you prepared to buy each gen. and find out the hard way. I am not. I'm not paid to test their stuff or have time to do so. Oneup should have focused on designing and testing this dropper rather than sweet talkin$ reviewers. It will take a lot of convincing before I pick another Oneup product. my 3c.

  86. #386
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    Honestly this is disappointing to read.

  87. #387
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    Quote Originally Posted by skywalker991 View Post

    As a customer I don't really care whether it's 1st, 2nd or 5th gen. I want a reliable product that does what it supposed to. Droppers been around for a while and it's not a rocket science. Btw, when do you know which gen. is the "finished" one? are you prepared to buy each gen. and find out the hard way. I am not. I'm not paid to test their stuff or have time to do so. Oneup should have focused on designing and testing this dropper rather than sweet talkin$ reviewers. It will take a lot of convincing before I pick another Oneup product. my 3c.
    Real simple solution to this one, never buy a new product. Stick with 5 year old technology that's well proven.
    Rigid SS 29er
    SS 29+
    Fat Lefty
    SS cyclocross
    Full Sus 29er (Yuck)

    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

  88. #388
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    Quote Originally Posted by *OneSpeed* View Post
    Real simple solution to this one, never buy a new product. Stick with 5 year old technology that's well proven.
    Amen

  89. #389
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    Quote Originally Posted by skywalker991 View Post
    I was considering Bikeyoke too but the only thing that put me off is bleeding. I know it's pretty simple but how often do you have to do it? every ride? Would you recommend this dropper?
    The current version that has been shipping for quite a while has a modification to reduce the frequency of needing to perform "Revive" internal bleeds, from occasionally to almost never. I have done it once so far, just to see how it works. Even if it was needed every ride I would still like the BikeYoke post, it is very simple process and takes a few seconds. As it is, if I ever need to use it I will be very glad to have the option. The post works great, feels great and is overall the best I have yet to use. Definitely recommend.

  90. #390
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    Often it's the problems that get the most attention and voice. Just so anyone reading all this isn't inordinately put off, there are lots of people that have a great experience with the post. For me (I got one like 3mo ago) it's been exceptional with a Wolftooth Light Action Remote. When I go back to my buddies Fox transfer I can't handle it. It's far too slow to return etc. Install was simple (just keep cable tension) and I haven't had any issues. It also has ZERO play in it which is really really nice. I was going to get a Revive but the lack of shim options in 185, slight play and that I can't tip my bike upside down wasn't ideal. Plus it was a fortune for just a dropper. Amazing product but a bit lacking in a couple areas for the price. I do wish my OneUp was a 185 or 200mm tho (now that my bike is built and I can test it) . I could use the extra drop at 6-4. YMMV

  91. #391
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    skywalker, I think we're soulmates. LOL. I will defend the cost of bikes to some degree, but when it comes down to it, yes, I think profit margins are super high. When companies like SRAM and Shimano are selling component packages to builders for what seems like pennies on the dollar, you can be damn sure they still aren't doing it at a loss. But we still get this perverse concept of value, because damn, I can't buy the parts for that build for anywhere NEAR what they're selling that bike for.

    That Altus derailluer on a cheapo bike can't cost more than a few bucks. Sure, that XTR one is way better, but what justifies it costing $200 instead of like...two dollars. Heh.

    I fix cars for a living, and it has caused me to make two observations.

    1) Shit can be made for a bafflingly low price these days. I've gotten truck rotors with integral dually adapters for like fifty bucks a piece. Like, holy crap, these things probably have sixty pounds of steel in them! And no measurable runout! And they include hardened bearing races (i.e. a precision part). Why am I paying $50 for a little dinky MTB rotor that wobbles out of the box?!

    2) People really struggle with scaling mark-up. I get told all the time that I don't mark up parts high enough...corporate stooges like to see a fixed percentage. That doesn't work. If I'm paying $500 for an AC compressor or a catalyst, I damn well can't sell it for $300 over counter price just because you want to see 200% of cost. Tell you what, Manager McDipshit, how about I start selling those 50 cent bulbs for a dollar instead of the $5 that no one ever scoffs at?

    I cringe to think about what percentage of profit must be in high-end bicycle parts. I'd bet money that it's about about the same as the cheap parts, which is just silly. Manufacturers should be happy to get $100 for a $50 part, rather than saying 'but we get $10 for the $1 part!' Bitch, you're still making 41 more goddamned dollars.

    Jesus, I'm really going off the rails here. Sorry.

  92. #392
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    Quote Originally Posted by svinyard View Post
    Often it's the problems that get the most attention and voice. Just so anyone reading all this isn't inordinately put off, there are lots of people that have a great experience with the post. For me (I got one like 3mo ago) it's been exceptional with a Wolftooth Light Action Remote. When I go back to my buddies Fox transfer I can't handle it. It's far too slow to return etc. Install was simple (just keep cable tension) and I haven't had any issues. It also has ZERO play in it which is really really nice. I was going to get a Revive but the lack of shim options in 185, slight play and that I can't tip my bike upside down wasn't ideal. Plus it was a fortune for just a dropper. Amazing product but a bit lacking in a couple areas for the price. I do wish my OneUp was a 185 or 200mm tho (now that my bike is built and I can test it) . I could use the extra drop at 6-4. YMMV
    This is very fair and I will echo it. I'm saying that I'm disappointed to see a lot of people having issues with this post, but truly, we don't know that. Maybe >99% are trouble-free; I got no way to tell.

    On the Revive: I haven't had any issues tipping the bike upside down. Nor was I aware that I should? I leave the post extended, and make sure to cycle the revive lever a few times after the bike has been upright for a bit. Not even sure what that does...it might be a tiger-proof rock, for all I know.

    I am slightly suspicious of your zero play claim. I didn't think anyone had achieved that...the problem that I see is that everyone wants to make the smallest post possible that fits the most applications, so the stanchion and body are always very similar lengths. This inherently leads to slop with the post extended, as there is very little stanchion to be supported by the bushings, and there has to be enough clearance to prevent binding. I can think of a lot of ways to mitigate this issue, but I've yet to see a teardown where it looks like any manufacturer has really given this the serious thought that it deserves...

    Maybe I'll make my own dropper post. With blackjack and hookers.

  93. #393
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    Quote Originally Posted by GRPABT1 View Post
    Honestly this is disappointing to read.
    mmmmm l dont think so, l had some initial disappointment (as l detailed above) but that was possibly my fault, since then the post had worked flawlessly.
    YMMV
    always mad and usually drunk......

  94. #394
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    Quote Originally Posted by phuchmileif View Post
    This is very fair and I will echo it. I'm saying that I'm disappointed to see a lot of people having issues with this post, but truly, we don't know that. Maybe >99% are trouble-free; I got no way to tell.

    On the Revive: I haven't had any issues tipping the bike upside down. Nor was I aware that I should? I leave the post extended, and make sure to cycle the revive lever a few times after the bike has been upright for a bit. Not even sure what that does...it might be a tiger-proof rock, for all I know.

    I am slightly suspicious of your zero play claim. I didn't think anyone had achieved that...the problem that I see is that everyone wants to make the smallest post possible that fits the most applications, so the stanchion and body are always very similar lengths. This inherently leads to slop with the post extended, as there is very little stanchion to be supported by the bushings, and there has to be enough clearance to prevent binding. I can think of a lot of ways to mitigate this issue, but I've yet to see a teardown where it looks like any manufacturer has really given this the serious thought that it deserves...

    Maybe I'll make my own dropper post. With blackjack and hookers.
    Here is a video of me trying to twist the saddle and move it around (the most common type of play). It literally has no play. Initially mine did have some play when I did this, about 1/2 mm or so but then I found that it was actually the seat clamp. I adjusted that and boom, zero play. Torqued down to about 5.75nm or so (I have a crappy torque wrench).

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/uYnyVgqkBGW2gnAY9

    FWIW yeah if you tip over your BikeYoke, often you'll have to "Revive" it to some degree. Not a big deal or that it breaks anything. Maybe with enhancements its not an issue anymore?

  95. #395
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    Quote Originally Posted by svinyard View Post
    Here is a video of me trying to twist the saddle and move it around (the most common type of play). It literally has no play. Initially mine did have some play when I did this, about 1/2 mm or so but then I found that it was actually the seat clamp. I adjusted that and boom, zero play. Torqued down to about 5.75nm or so (I have a crappy torque wrench).

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/uYnyVgqkBGW2gnAY9

    FWIW yeah if you tip over your BikeYoke, often you'll have to "Revive" it to some degree. Not a big deal or that it breaks anything. Maybe with enhancements its not an issue anymore?
    you got 5th gen lucky batch reviewer's edition! ;-)

    two of my oneup droppers had play and would not extend with torque of 4nm on seat collar with problems starting at 3nm

  96. #396
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    Quote Originally Posted by skywalker991 View Post
    you got 5th gen lucky batch reviewer's edition! ;-)

    two of my oneup droppers had play and would not extend with torque of 4nm on seat collar with problems starting at 3nm
    Yeah that sucks and is really weird. Have you double checked your seat post collar and verified your wrench is right? Most people have a crappy torque wrench and not a 100-200$ that's proper. Also it seems like seat post collars are all over the place size wise. Not much of a standard there and they very in small but meaningful amounts.

    A second check would be to put the post into a different bike as a way or seeing if it's your setup or the post.

    Not sure what edition but let's not act like everyone is having your problem because they aren't.

  97. #397
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    Well my 170mm on a Banshee Spitty works sweetly. I have at least 5nm on the saddle clamp and use a Cane Creek Dropt Lever. As others have noted, I switched the actuator head around 180 degrees on install as well. No creaks, took all of 20 minutes to install, it's as smooth as any dropper I have used and a rapid has return with a satisfying clunk.

  98. #398
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    I cant say what Torque value I have on the seat clamp, as I tighten slightly, try it out, if it slips the tighten more, etc etc etc
    What I can say is it is definitely more that 4nm, in fact its pretty tight.
    I also have no play in the seat.

    Im also not sure why people have come to this thread to complain about other brands though


    and not sure where you are buying a One Up Dropper for 200 , I think you need a new shop.......
    https://www.bike-components.de/en/Se..._desc&limit=20 note that prices are not , when I checked thats ~168
    always mad and usually drunk......

  99. #399
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    Quote Originally Posted by cmg71 View Post

    and not sure where you are buying a One Up Dropper for 200 , I think you need a new shop.......
    https://www.bike-components.de/en/Se..._desc&limit=20 note that prices are not , when I checked thats ~168
    you misunderstood my point.

  100. #400
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    Quote Originally Posted by skywalker991 View Post
    I thought I will give my opinion on the 170mm OneUp dropper post.

    I've had a 150mm Fox Transfer for over a year but Oneup attracted my attention because its lower stack (so more room when I slam it down).

    Now, I've read a lot of good opinions about this post and I have a couple of Oneup products and generally I'm happy about them. However, this post is just rubbish.

    - this is my second, brand new, oneup dropper. The first one was faulty out of the box. Horrible grind when compressed and extended
    - the second one doesn't grind as much but is far from buttery smooth. I read a few opinions on some forums people comparing it to Fox Transfer saying it's as good/smooth. It's not true. You can feel friction at all times, quite similar to Giant dropper in this regard. Fox just feel friction-less in comparison. It's something you don't miss until you experience it. Saying that, I can live with this if you give me low stack in return.
    - The absolute dealbreaker to me is related to clamping. I found that anything over 3nm on seat collar causes the dropper to either not return fully (e.g. it stops 80%) or slow return or just give more friction/grind. My frame recommendation is ~5-6nm btw. Now, I wouldn't have a problem to go by with 3nm or whatever if the (seat)post stayed in place when I ride - but it doesn't. Sorry but how the hell this post the quality control with such major flaw?!
    - I use Wolftooth remote and the lever motion is just way harder & less smooth than with Fox transfer. I suspect this is because Oneup moves the outer rather than inner cable to trigger the dropper - which imo is just stupid design
    - the dropper is super sensitive to inner cable tension. anything under or over a certain tension and it behaves odd
    - shims is still out of stock after 2 months of ordering. Seriously, being out of stock with (very overpriced) piece of plastic that you advertise as the main selling point?!
    - smaller issues. Return speed isn't as fast as I would like to (air pressure ~270psi), and the pop when it gets fully extended isn't as loud as I would like. Small things and not dealbrakers.

    The post is going back where it came from. I love the low stack but Oneup needs to get back to the drawing board; bad design, bad quality control and bad execution. Even at half price it's money wasted if it doesn't work properly.


    Quote Originally Posted by phuchmileif View Post
    Oh, and BTW, just so I don't sound like a BikeYoke fanboy: I think the broken post pictured above is horseshit, too. How did a reversed clamp cause that, when the seat isn't even slammed all the way in either direction? I see no way in which clamp orientation causes that- that is straight up just a case of the material not coping with the stresses induced by the rider. Maybe he's really heavy, maybe he leans hard on the back of the saddle, whatever. It shouldn't matter.

    There's a reason dropper manufacturers don't want to offer setback posts: they can't even get a straight one to be reliable. It is so damn strange that the whole POINT of a dropper is to give you a proper seating position while pedaling...but oh, please don't lean on it too hard. It can't really take your weight. And those millimeters of play that, IMO, are critical to the setup of a bike that you actually pedal? Yeah, just don't worry about those...


    Quote Originally Posted by svinyard View Post
    Here is a video of me trying to twist the saddle and move it around (the most common type of play). It literally has no play. Initially mine did have some play when I did this, about 1/2 mm or so but then I found that it was actually the seat clamp. I adjusted that and boom, zero play. Torqued down to about 5.75nm or so (I have a crappy torque wrench).

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/uYnyVgqkBGW2gnAY9

    FWIW yeah if you tip over your BikeYoke, often you'll have to "Revive" it to some degree. Not a big deal or that it breaks anything. Maybe with enhancements its not an issue anymore?
    I have owned my 185mm revive for 2 months now and I regularly store my bike upside down (I like to have the fork seals nicely lubricated) and have not had to use the revive feature since the day 1.
    The only time I used it was when I installed the post...
    Also, the 185mm revive and fox transfer 150mm are almost identical in length.

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