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  1. #901
    J6y
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    Has anyone carried this procedure out on a Lev DX? Any differences? I'm just getting the typical 1/2 drop and its doing my head in on climbs.

  2. #902
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    The cartridge is the same. Difference is how you position the direction your saddle points. On the LEV, you can adjust that angle without dismantling the post. On the LEV DX, youíll need to pay attention to the saddle clamp direction before you dismantle so you can set it back the way you had it when reassembling.

    Chris

  3. #903
    J6y
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    Thank you Chris! I was trawling the web to try and find that out. Thanks for the awesome write up also..

    Quote Originally Posted by cakelly4 View Post
    The cartridge is the same. Difference is how you position the direction your saddle points. On the LEV, you can adjust that angle without dismantling the post. On the LEV DX, youíll need to pay attention to the saddle clamp direction before you dismantle so you can set it back the way you had it when reassembling.

    Chris

  4. #904
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    Quote Originally Posted by PeterG View Post
    He left it as is, it doesn't affect anything.
    Thanks

  5. #905
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    Hi Chris just want to say thanks for an awesome guide! Bought a bike with a very tired KS let Integra and was thinking of spending out on a reverb or sending the KS away for a service. Came across this guide, I now have an as new post working perfectly again. Muchly appreciated!!!!!

  6. #906
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    Very glad to hear this got you up and running and saved you from buying a new dropper.

    Happy riding!
    Chris

  7. #907
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    Quote Originally Posted by chrishya7711 View Post
    Hi Chris just want to say thanks for an awesome guide! Bought a bike with a very tired KS let Integra and was thinking of spending out on a reverb or sending the KS away for a service. Came across this guide, I now have an as new post working perfectly again. Muchly appreciated!!!!!
    What he said! Excellent process. Post better than new with 5 weight oil.

    Greatly appreciated.

  8. #908
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    Awesome! Glad this thread is still helping people out.

    Chris

  9. #909
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    The post I just tried to rebuild for a friend has the lower nut that you have to us a set of spanners on has been staked into place. I've done a couple of my own and the nut would easily come off. It looks like the factory used a punch to hold the nut in place making it impossible to remove.

    His post is relatively new and developed the normal little bit of slack at the top of its travel. Just needed a quick bleed but it can't be taken apart.

  10. #910
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    Quote Originally Posted by terrible View Post
    The post I just tried to rebuild for a friend has the lower nut that you have to us a set of spanners on has been staked into place. I've done a couple of my own and the nut would easily come off. It looks like the factory used a punch to hold the nut in place making it impossible to remove.

    His post is relatively new and developed the normal little bit of slack at the top of its travel. Just needed a quick bleed but it can't be taken apart.
    I'm guessing it looks like the one I have pictured here:
    KS LEV - DIY Cartridge Rebuild

    According to this post you can just carefully drill it out. I haven't tried it myself yet, but that person did successfully:
    KS LEV - DIY Cartridge Rebuild

  11. #911
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    Quote Originally Posted by tadrscin View Post
    I'm guessing it looks like the one I have pictured here:
    KS LEV - DIY Cartridge Rebuild

    According to this post you can just carefully drill it out. I haven't tried it myself yet, but that person did successfully:
    KS LEV - DIY Cartridge Rebuild
    Awesome info there, thanks much!
    "I'm the fastest of the slow guys"

  12. #912
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    Turns out they do this to the oem version.

  13. #913
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    I put a new black cartridge in my Lev and Iím going to rebuild the gold cartridge do I can rotate them. The one question I have is that the new cartridge I have is really sluggish. Itís slow to drop and slow to rise. It has about 200psi in it. Anyone had this and got tips on resolving it?

  14. #914
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    If itís a standard LEV rather than Integra, check your Kevlar cable tension. If itís standard or Integra, check your DU bushing. If it doesnít slide very well, that could be the culprit. Also check your external cable tension, obviously. Thatís all I got for you right now. Let us know what you find.

    Chris

  15. #915
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    Thanks. It'll be a week before I can check now, off on Christmas Vacation.....

    Oh, and it's a LEV.

  16. #916
    wvn
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    Hi,

    I know this is about the LEV, and the thread helped me revive mine. But is there anyone which can help me with my i950? It looks like the valve which controlles the oil flow doesn't close. In other words, I can drop and raise the post without actuating the lever. I pulled everythin apart, cleaned everything, put it back together buit nothing changed. Now I am not sure how the valve is supposed to close itself. Th spring on top of the valve seems to only push the actuator knob back up. Any thoughts are appreciated.

  17. #917
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    Hi,

    Need help.
    I have Lev Integra which now there's oil leak through actuator but it still function properly, no sag and don't stuck.

    May I rebuild to fix oil leak or just change o-ring/seal at bottom cap of oil cartridge?

    Thanks,
    Phatchara
    Last edited by groo_pachon; 01-27-2018 at 07:50 AM. Reason: Correct words

  18. #918
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    Hard to understand where youíre seeing oil leaking from. If itís coming from around the actuator area and thereís no other issues, it could be one of the following:

    1. Your cartridge end cap is starting to back out. If so, you can unthread the actuator from the bottom and push on the saddle to expose the inner shaft. From there, you can usually see if that end cap looks like itís backing out. You can also sometimes reach it with a spanner to tighten it. Or just remove the cartridge and tighten it. If this is the case and you lost some oil, it will likely begin to have some issues in the near future.

    2. You may just be seeing melted slick honey and/or dirty water dripping from the bottom. If thatís the case, you may just need to do some basic service without opening the cartridge.

    Keep in mind that if you open that cartridge to replace a seal, youíll need to do the full rebuild at that point.

    I hope this helps. Let me know how you make out.

    Chris

  19. #919
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    Quote Originally Posted by cakelly4 View Post
    Hard to understand where youíre seeing oil leaking from. If itís coming from around the actuator area and thereís no other issues, it could be one of the following:

    1. Your cartridge end cap is starting to back out. If so, you can unthread the actuator from the bottom and push on the saddle to expose the inner shaft. From there, you can usually see if that end cap looks like itís backing out. You can also sometimes reach it with a spanner to tighten it. Or just remove the cartridge and tighten it. If this is the case and you lost some oil, it will likely begin to have some issues in the near future.

    2. You may just be seeing melted slick honey and/or dirty water dripping from the bottom. If thatís the case, you may just need to do some basic service without opening the cartridge.

    Keep in mind that if you open that cartridge to replace a seal, youíll need to do the full rebuild at that point.

    I hope this helps. Let me know how you make out.

    Chris
    Thank you Chris.
    This mean I can not open end cap to fill oil? Seem like the best way is full rebuild right?

    Phatchara

  20. #920
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    That is correct.

  21. #921
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    Does anyone near Denver have the tools to re-build a lev? Living on a college campus doesnít leave me access to anything, but Iíd hate to throw away a cartridge if thereís really nothing wrong with it. Would be willing to pay for your time. Send me a message if so.
    Thanks!
    Scott

  22. #922
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    hello, first of all, I'd like to thank you for this perfect guide. Everything is described and seatpost is working (KS LEV Integra) ... BUT unfortunately it didn't resolve my problem When I sit on the bike, seatpost goes down whithout activating remote control. First of all I tried maintenance from KS video... nothing. Then I tried tips from this post, seatpost works well (smoothly goes up and down, there is no sag, "saddle nose" moves less), but it's still dropping, when I sit on the bike. I found a picture with piston in the inner tube and there is a spring in it (image attached). I just assembled the seatpost and I don't know what to do now. Has anyone some experience with this issue? sorry for my english KS LEV - DIY Cartridge Rebuild-pvd_4393.jpg
    Last edited by mnemonic; 02-21-2018 at 03:21 AM.

  23. #923
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    OK, problem solved. It was realy in that piece on the picture. I used allen key to get the top cap down, then I tried to extend a spring inside. After this procedure I assembled my seatpost and it's working better than new one...Maybe it will help someone

  24. #924
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    got a non cartridge rebuild question and as this seems the most active lev thread figured i'd give it a shot.
    anyone have any specs on the actuator spring for the lev integra models? mostly looking for a rate as i can match up the length, etc with the current. i'm looking to get a stronger spring for more resistance at the lever.
    i've email ks a few times about different things but never get any replies.

  25. #925
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    ^^I'd guess that's gonna be a real tough tidbit of info to get out KS. Seems if you can match the dimension, perhaps trial & error is the path till you get to where you want to be.

  26. #926
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oh My Sack! View Post
    ^^I'd guess that's gonna be a real tough tidbit of info to get out KS. Seems if you can match the dimension, perhaps trial & error is the path till you get to where you want to be.
    yea i figured which is why i thought i'd ask here, but taking the existing to a hardware store and doing some in hand comparisons is probably where i'll end up.

  27. #927
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    I was having trouble getting the threads to engage (took way too much time fiddling) and might have some helpful comments for others. Please edit as needed any add to procedure if warranted. This help me immensely.

    So before adding oil...
    Install IFP flush with end of IFP shaft.
    Remove end cap from damper shaft and screw into post to set the depth of the IFP perfectly.
    Tap shrader valve to release pressure from IFP movement.
    Unscrew cap, place on damper shaft and move to the end.
    Add oil to top of IFP shaft.
    Install damper shaft and by only putting pressure on the cap insert until it stops.
    While depressing activator pin, press cap to threads (do not press damper shaft) and screw into final position.

    Hope that helps.

  28. #928
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    Thank you!!! Just rebuilt my hydraulic side - got air in the oil on a cold, winter ride. KS recommended against performing this procedure - FYI. Unserviceable - buy new. Will see how it works over time.

    I only replaced non-static seals (all the quad rings). The one inside the end cap (threaded side on hydraulic cylinder) was a pain to remove.... used a exacto knife, stabbed it and pried it out.

    My only comment is be careful with unscrewing the hydraulic side if it's mixed - you can't bleed all the air out and it will "pop".

    Also - I tried a trick for removing the DU busiing. A razor can be inserted as a "wedge" between housing and bearing to initially loosen the bearing for easier removal.

    My only comment on the directions is to make clearer the reinsertion length for the oil piston. Was not clear to me if I was supposed to have the top of the "gold rod" level or the bottom. I figured it out.... but had to do it twice.

  29. #929
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    Man Iím trying to read thru all these post, and Iíll continue over the next day or two. But in the meantime figured Iíd ask.

    I have the ks thirty integra that came on my trek I purchased last July. When I put weight on the saddle(not engaging the trigger) the dropper goes roughly 1/2 an inch in. When I take my weight back off the saddle(again without engaging the trigger) it comes back up.

    So first off, will this guide from op on page one apply to the KS ethirty integra? And if so will me going thru all the steps and servicing it correct it? Or should I just contact KS, or trek?

  30. #930
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    Sorry, but the e30i is not going to be serviceable aside from replacing the disposable cartridge inside it. That post blows my mind. KS really made themselves look bad by having so many bikes go out with that turd sandwhich on it.

    Iíd recommend purchasing a new post. There are a lot of better options out there. Check out the Bike Yoke Revive for starters.

    Chris

  31. #931
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    Thanks, Iíll atleast contact them and see if I can get a new one out of them. The bikes is less than a year old, or perhaps trek will replace since they are the ones who put it on there.

  32. #932
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    Chris...or anyone else with the info...

    I just got a LEV272 in and I'm not doing a rebuild on it but I am just replacing the cartridge and have the new ones here. This is my first dismantling of the LEV272 which is essentially a DX type post with external routing. What I am finding on initial disassembly is the pushrod is NOT a tapered rod like every-single-other LEV I have ever dealt with in the past. The pushrod cap is typical of all units and is designed to slide over a taper end of the pushrod. There are NO tapered ends on the rod I have pulled out of this thing. Haven't checked with the owner yet to see if he's had it apart before this but I find it very odd. The schematic available is for a 2018 only and this one is a couple years old at most. The schematic shows the typical tapered pushrod so if that's what "should" be in there, I want to get one in there before I return it.

    Any thoughts?!

    EDIT: NEVER MIND! Checked BTI and the LEV272 shows a straight, untapered pushrod so forget it...I'll keep moving on!

  33. #933
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    Anyone run into this? I have a 5 year old (yes, I know, probably past the end of it's life) KS LEV. If the bike has been upright for a day or two the seat post will not go down. If I flip the bike over for a few hours, and then bring it right side up and try again, the post will function as normal for the next day.

    Sounds like I need to do the rebuild?

  34. #934
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    Quote Originally Posted by zeppman View Post
    Anyone run into this? I have a 5 year old (yes, I know, probably past the end of it's life) KS LEV. If the bike has been upright for a day or two the seat post will not go down. If I flip the bike over for a few hours, and then bring it right side up and try again, the post will function as normal for the next day.

    Sounds like I need to do the rebuild?
    So the next time it does this remove the post from the bike, remove the end cap and manually push the activation lever. Mine, too, is over 5 years old and despite proper maintenance and a fresh coat of grease the lever/push rod gets a little stuck and requires this little push start at the trail head.
    If your not wreckin', your not ridin'.

  35. #935
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    Quote Originally Posted by wreckingrob View Post
    So the next time it does this remove the post from the bike, remove the end cap and manually push the activation lever. Mine, too, is over 5 years old and despite proper maintenance and a fresh coat of grease the lever/push rod gets a little stuck and requires this little push start at the trail head.
    Well that's interesting, thanks for the tip. Have you done the rebuild and this still happens? I did the rebuild (following Chris' directions) about two years ago after I rode in some really cold weather and the post started sagging. Since then I've just done the regular cleaning/maintenance (following KS youtube videos).

  36. #936
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    Quote Originally Posted by zeppman View Post
    Well that's interesting, thanks for the tip. Have you done the rebuild and this still happens? I did the rebuild (following Chris' directions) about two years ago after I rode in some really cold weather and the post started sagging. Since then I've just done the regular cleaning/maintenance (following KS youtube videos).
    I have not rebuilt the post since this started happening, no. There is no sag or any indication this is related to the internals other than the lever and push rod. I'll note further that there is a good amount of sticktion when I need to manually activate the leaver. Enough that the thumb lever can't overcome it. Afterwards, its all good, until its not again.
    If your not wreckin', your not ridin'.

  37. #937
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    Thanks wrecking bob. I'm going to take my post apart and do the rebuild when I have time. I'm wondering if the piece that the long push rod "pushes on" that is getting stuck? The rod in my post moves freely.. I'll let you know what I find out when I get around to it.

  38. #938
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    Well I know what my problem is, the piston (shown in mnemonic's post #22 of this page) is getting stuck. Problem is I don' know how to open that part up like mnemonic did without damaging anything? I can't get a grip on shaft part that is strong enough where it won't slip as I turn the piece with the hex wrench. If I can open that up and clean it I'm assuming it will solve my problem.

  39. #939
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    I typically wrap a very thick piece of rubber (strap wrench rubber for example) around the silver shaft and grab it with channel locks, then use an Allen key to remove the damper cap. Be very careful. The silver part is very soft.

    Chris

  40. #940
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    Chris, that worked, thanks.

    However I screwed something up putting it all back together. After assembly, the post worked, but had a ton of sag (probably could get it to compress 50% with my weight on it). It also did not feel smooth. I'm assuming I screwed up in putting everything back together and there is air trapped in the system. I was also a complete moron and shook the oil (thinking it's been sitting for a while and needed to be mixed? I dunno, I'm an idiot) and so when I poured it in, I of course saw tons of bubbles. This of course didn't click until I had everything back together and the post was sagging. (It was not sagging before I took it apart).

    Oh well, gonna try again tonight after work.

  41. #941
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    Quote Originally Posted by zeppman View Post
    Chris, that worked, thanks.

    However I screwed something up putting it all back together. After assembly, the post worked, but had a ton of sag (probably could get it to compress 50% with my weight on it). It also did not feel smooth. I'm assuming I screwed up in putting everything back together and there is air trapped in the system. I was also a complete moron and shook the oil (thinking it's been sitting for a while and needed to be mixed? I dunno, I'm an idiot) and so when I poured it in, I of course saw tons of bubbles. This of course didn't click until I had everything back together and the post was sagging. (It was not sagging before I took it apart).

    Oh well, gonna try again tonight after work.
    You shook the oil?! Bro, it's not Yoohoo.

    Just redo it and pay very close attention when you insert the mechanism into the oil while holding down the actuator. And for God's Sake, Man....don't shake the oil!

  42. #942
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    Lol, I know man... There was beer involved, it was late, and I was tired... I knew it the second I put the seat post back in the bike and sat on it...

  43. #943
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    LOL. Props for fessing up to shaking the oil. Like I always tell myself: letís try that again but better. Haha. Let me know how the redo goes.

    Donít forget that you can test for sag before you reassemble the entire thing, after youíve closed the cartridge and recharged the air. Just try to compress it against your work bench.

    Good luck,
    Chris

  44. #944
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    Round 2 was a success. No sag and smooth operation. It will be a day or two before I know if the stuck piston issues is fixed though..

  45. #945
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    Nice! Keep us updated.

    Chris

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