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  1. #901
    J6y
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    Has anyone carried this procedure out on a Lev DX? Any differences? I'm just getting the typical 1/2 drop and its doing my head in on climbs.

  2. #902
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    The cartridge is the same. Difference is how you position the direction your saddle points. On the LEV, you can adjust that angle without dismantling the post. On the LEV DX, youíll need to pay attention to the saddle clamp direction before you dismantle so you can set it back the way you had it when reassembling.

    Chris

  3. #903
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    Thank you Chris! I was trawling the web to try and find that out. Thanks for the awesome write up also..

    Quote Originally Posted by cakelly4 View Post
    The cartridge is the same. Difference is how you position the direction your saddle points. On the LEV, you can adjust that angle without dismantling the post. On the LEV DX, youíll need to pay attention to the saddle clamp direction before you dismantle so you can set it back the way you had it when reassembling.

    Chris

  4. #904
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    Quote Originally Posted by PeterG View Post
    He left it as is, it doesn't affect anything.
    Thanks

  5. #905
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    Hi Chris just want to say thanks for an awesome guide! Bought a bike with a very tired KS let Integra and was thinking of spending out on a reverb or sending the KS away for a service. Came across this guide, I now have an as new post working perfectly again. Muchly appreciated!!!!!

  6. #906
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    Very glad to hear this got you up and running and saved you from buying a new dropper.

    Happy riding!
    Chris

  7. #907
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    Quote Originally Posted by chrishya7711 View Post
    Hi Chris just want to say thanks for an awesome guide! Bought a bike with a very tired KS let Integra and was thinking of spending out on a reverb or sending the KS away for a service. Came across this guide, I now have an as new post working perfectly again. Muchly appreciated!!!!!
    What he said! Excellent process. Post better than new with 5 weight oil.

    Greatly appreciated.

  8. #908
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    Awesome! Glad this thread is still helping people out.

    Chris

  9. #909
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    The post I just tried to rebuild for a friend has the lower nut that you have to us a set of spanners on has been staked into place. I've done a couple of my own and the nut would easily come off. It looks like the factory used a punch to hold the nut in place making it impossible to remove.

    His post is relatively new and developed the normal little bit of slack at the top of its travel. Just needed a quick bleed but it can't be taken apart.

  10. #910
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    Quote Originally Posted by terrible View Post
    The post I just tried to rebuild for a friend has the lower nut that you have to us a set of spanners on has been staked into place. I've done a couple of my own and the nut would easily come off. It looks like the factory used a punch to hold the nut in place making it impossible to remove.

    His post is relatively new and developed the normal little bit of slack at the top of its travel. Just needed a quick bleed but it can't be taken apart.
    I'm guessing it looks like the one I have pictured here:
    KS LEV - DIY Cartridge Rebuild

    According to this post you can just carefully drill it out. I haven't tried it myself yet, but that person did successfully:
    KS LEV - DIY Cartridge Rebuild

  11. #911
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    Quote Originally Posted by tadrscin View Post
    I'm guessing it looks like the one I have pictured here:
    KS LEV - DIY Cartridge Rebuild

    According to this post you can just carefully drill it out. I haven't tried it myself yet, but that person did successfully:
    KS LEV - DIY Cartridge Rebuild
    Awesome info there, thanks much!
    "I'm the fastest of the slow guys"

  12. #912
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    Turns out they do this to the oem version.

  13. #913
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    I put a new black cartridge in my Lev and Iím going to rebuild the gold cartridge do I can rotate them. The one question I have is that the new cartridge I have is really sluggish. Itís slow to drop and slow to rise. It has about 200psi in it. Anyone had this and got tips on resolving it?

  14. #914
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    If itís a standard LEV rather than Integra, check your Kevlar cable tension. If itís standard or Integra, check your DU bushing. If it doesnít slide very well, that could be the culprit. Also check your external cable tension, obviously. Thatís all I got for you right now. Let us know what you find.

    Chris

  15. #915
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    Thanks. It'll be a week before I can check now, off on Christmas Vacation.....

    Oh, and it's a LEV.

  16. #916
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    Hi,

    I know this is about the LEV, and the thread helped me revive mine. But is there anyone which can help me with my i950? It looks like the valve which controlles the oil flow doesn't close. In other words, I can drop and raise the post without actuating the lever. I pulled everythin apart, cleaned everything, put it back together buit nothing changed. Now I am not sure how the valve is supposed to close itself. Th spring on top of the valve seems to only push the actuator knob back up. Any thoughts are appreciated.

  17. #917
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    Hi,

    Need help.
    I have Lev Integra which now there's oil leak through actuator but it still function properly, no sag and don't stuck.

    May I rebuild to fix oil leak or just change o-ring/seal at bottom cap of oil cartridge?

    Thanks,
    Phatchara
    Last edited by groo_pachon; 01-27-2018 at 07:50 AM. Reason: Correct words

  18. #918
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    Hard to understand where youíre seeing oil leaking from. If itís coming from around the actuator area and thereís no other issues, it could be one of the following:

    1. Your cartridge end cap is starting to back out. If so, you can unthread the actuator from the bottom and push on the saddle to expose the inner shaft. From there, you can usually see if that end cap looks like itís backing out. You can also sometimes reach it with a spanner to tighten it. Or just remove the cartridge and tighten it. If this is the case and you lost some oil, it will likely begin to have some issues in the near future.

    2. You may just be seeing melted slick honey and/or dirty water dripping from the bottom. If thatís the case, you may just need to do some basic service without opening the cartridge.

    Keep in mind that if you open that cartridge to replace a seal, youíll need to do the full rebuild at that point.

    I hope this helps. Let me know how you make out.

    Chris

  19. #919
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    Quote Originally Posted by cakelly4 View Post
    Hard to understand where youíre seeing oil leaking from. If itís coming from around the actuator area and thereís no other issues, it could be one of the following:

    1. Your cartridge end cap is starting to back out. If so, you can unthread the actuator from the bottom and push on the saddle to expose the inner shaft. From there, you can usually see if that end cap looks like itís backing out. You can also sometimes reach it with a spanner to tighten it. Or just remove the cartridge and tighten it. If this is the case and you lost some oil, it will likely begin to have some issues in the near future.

    2. You may just be seeing melted slick honey and/or dirty water dripping from the bottom. If thatís the case, you may just need to do some basic service without opening the cartridge.

    Keep in mind that if you open that cartridge to replace a seal, youíll need to do the full rebuild at that point.

    I hope this helps. Let me know how you make out.

    Chris
    Thank you Chris.
    This mean I can not open end cap to fill oil? Seem like the best way is full rebuild right?

    Phatchara

  20. #920
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    That is correct.

  21. #921
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    Does anyone near Denver have the tools to re-build a lev? Living on a college campus doesnít leave me access to anything, but Iíd hate to throw away a cartridge if thereís really nothing wrong with it. Would be willing to pay for your time. Send me a message if so.
    Thanks!
    Scott

  22. #922
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    hello, first of all, I'd like to thank you for this perfect guide. Everything is described and seatpost is working (KS LEV Integra) ... BUT unfortunately it didn't resolve my problem When I sit on the bike, seatpost goes down whithout activating remote control. First of all I tried maintenance from KS video... nothing. Then I tried tips from this post, seatpost works well (smoothly goes up and down, there is no sag, "saddle nose" moves less), but it's still dropping, when I sit on the bike. I found a picture with piston in the inner tube and there is a spring in it (image attached). I just assembled the seatpost and I don't know what to do now. Has anyone some experience with this issue? sorry for my english KS LEV - DIY Cartridge Rebuild-pvd_4393.jpg
    Last edited by mnemonic; 02-21-2018 at 03:21 AM.

  23. #923
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    OK, problem solved. It was realy in that piece on the picture. I used allen key to get the top cap down, then I tried to extend a spring inside. After this procedure I assembled my seatpost and it's working better than new one...Maybe it will help someone

  24. #924
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    got a non cartridge rebuild question and as this seems the most active lev thread figured i'd give it a shot.
    anyone have any specs on the actuator spring for the lev integra models? mostly looking for a rate as i can match up the length, etc with the current. i'm looking to get a stronger spring for more resistance at the lever.
    i've email ks a few times about different things but never get any replies.

  25. #925
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    ^^I'd guess that's gonna be a real tough tidbit of info to get out KS. Seems if you can match the dimension, perhaps trial & error is the path till you get to where you want to be.

  26. #926
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oh My Sack! View Post
    ^^I'd guess that's gonna be a real tough tidbit of info to get out KS. Seems if you can match the dimension, perhaps trial & error is the path till you get to where you want to be.
    yea i figured which is why i thought i'd ask here, but taking the existing to a hardware store and doing some in hand comparisons is probably where i'll end up.

  27. #927
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    I was having trouble getting the threads to engage (took way too much time fiddling) and might have some helpful comments for others. Please edit as needed any add to procedure if warranted. This help me immensely.

    So before adding oil...
    Install IFP flush with end of IFP shaft.
    Remove end cap from damper shaft and screw into post to set the depth of the IFP perfectly.
    Tap shrader valve to release pressure from IFP movement.
    Unscrew cap, place on damper shaft and move to the end.
    Add oil to top of IFP shaft.
    Install damper shaft and by only putting pressure on the cap insert until it stops.
    While depressing activator pin, press cap to threads (do not press damper shaft) and screw into final position.

    Hope that helps.

  28. #928
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    Thank you!!! Just rebuilt my hydraulic side - got air in the oil on a cold, winter ride. KS recommended against performing this procedure - FYI. Unserviceable - buy new. Will see how it works over time.

    I only replaced non-static seals (all the quad rings). The one inside the end cap (threaded side on hydraulic cylinder) was a pain to remove.... used a exacto knife, stabbed it and pried it out.

    My only comment is be careful with unscrewing the hydraulic side if it's mixed - you can't bleed all the air out and it will "pop".

    Also - I tried a trick for removing the DU busiing. A razor can be inserted as a "wedge" between housing and bearing to initially loosen the bearing for easier removal.

    My only comment on the directions is to make clearer the reinsertion length for the oil piston. Was not clear to me if I was supposed to have the top of the "gold rod" level or the bottom. I figured it out.... but had to do it twice.

  29. #929
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    Man Iím trying to read thru all these post, and Iíll continue over the next day or two. But in the meantime figured Iíd ask.

    I have the ks thirty integra that came on my trek I purchased last July. When I put weight on the saddle(not engaging the trigger) the dropper goes roughly 1/2 an inch in. When I take my weight back off the saddle(again without engaging the trigger) it comes back up.

    So first off, will this guide from op on page one apply to the KS ethirty integra? And if so will me going thru all the steps and servicing it correct it? Or should I just contact KS, or trek?

  30. #930
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    Sorry, but the e30i is not going to be serviceable aside from replacing the disposable cartridge inside it. That post blows my mind. KS really made themselves look bad by having so many bikes go out with that turd sandwhich on it.

    Iíd recommend purchasing a new post. There are a lot of better options out there. Check out the Bike Yoke Revive for starters.

    Chris

  31. #931
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    Thanks, Iíll atleast contact them and see if I can get a new one out of them. The bikes is less than a year old, or perhaps trek will replace since they are the ones who put it on there.

  32. #932
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    Chris...or anyone else with the info...

    I just got a LEV272 in and I'm not doing a rebuild on it but I am just replacing the cartridge and have the new ones here. This is my first dismantling of the LEV272 which is essentially a DX type post with external routing. What I am finding on initial disassembly is the pushrod is NOT a tapered rod like every-single-other LEV I have ever dealt with in the past. The pushrod cap is typical of all units and is designed to slide over a taper end of the pushrod. There are NO tapered ends on the rod I have pulled out of this thing. Haven't checked with the owner yet to see if he's had it apart before this but I find it very odd. The schematic available is for a 2018 only and this one is a couple years old at most. The schematic shows the typical tapered pushrod so if that's what "should" be in there, I want to get one in there before I return it.

    Any thoughts?!

    EDIT: NEVER MIND! Checked BTI and the LEV272 shows a straight, untapered pushrod so forget it...I'll keep moving on!

  33. #933
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    Anyone run into this? I have a 5 year old (yes, I know, probably past the end of it's life) KS LEV. If the bike has been upright for a day or two the seat post will not go down. If I flip the bike over for a few hours, and then bring it right side up and try again, the post will function as normal for the next day.

    Sounds like I need to do the rebuild?

  34. #934
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    Quote Originally Posted by zeppman View Post
    Anyone run into this? I have a 5 year old (yes, I know, probably past the end of it's life) KS LEV. If the bike has been upright for a day or two the seat post will not go down. If I flip the bike over for a few hours, and then bring it right side up and try again, the post will function as normal for the next day.

    Sounds like I need to do the rebuild?
    So the next time it does this remove the post from the bike, remove the end cap and manually push the activation lever. Mine, too, is over 5 years old and despite proper maintenance and a fresh coat of grease the lever/push rod gets a little stuck and requires this little push start at the trail head.
    If your not wreckin', your not ridin'.

  35. #935
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    Quote Originally Posted by wreckingrob View Post
    So the next time it does this remove the post from the bike, remove the end cap and manually push the activation lever. Mine, too, is over 5 years old and despite proper maintenance and a fresh coat of grease the lever/push rod gets a little stuck and requires this little push start at the trail head.
    Well that's interesting, thanks for the tip. Have you done the rebuild and this still happens? I did the rebuild (following Chris' directions) about two years ago after I rode in some really cold weather and the post started sagging. Since then I've just done the regular cleaning/maintenance (following KS youtube videos).

  36. #936
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    Quote Originally Posted by zeppman View Post
    Well that's interesting, thanks for the tip. Have you done the rebuild and this still happens? I did the rebuild (following Chris' directions) about two years ago after I rode in some really cold weather and the post started sagging. Since then I've just done the regular cleaning/maintenance (following KS youtube videos).
    I have not rebuilt the post since this started happening, no. There is no sag or any indication this is related to the internals other than the lever and push rod. I'll note further that there is a good amount of sticktion when I need to manually activate the leaver. Enough that the thumb lever can't overcome it. Afterwards, its all good, until its not again.
    If your not wreckin', your not ridin'.

  37. #937
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    Thanks wrecking bob. I'm going to take my post apart and do the rebuild when I have time. I'm wondering if the piece that the long push rod "pushes on" that is getting stuck? The rod in my post moves freely.. I'll let you know what I find out when I get around to it.

  38. #938
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    Well I know what my problem is, the piston (shown in mnemonic's post #22 of this page) is getting stuck. Problem is I don' know how to open that part up like mnemonic did without damaging anything? I can't get a grip on shaft part that is strong enough where it won't slip as I turn the piece with the hex wrench. If I can open that up and clean it I'm assuming it will solve my problem.

  39. #939
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    I typically wrap a very thick piece of rubber (strap wrench rubber for example) around the silver shaft and grab it with channel locks, then use an Allen key to remove the damper cap. Be very careful. The silver part is very soft.

    Chris

  40. #940
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    Chris, that worked, thanks.

    However I screwed something up putting it all back together. After assembly, the post worked, but had a ton of sag (probably could get it to compress 50% with my weight on it). It also did not feel smooth. I'm assuming I screwed up in putting everything back together and there is air trapped in the system. I was also a complete moron and shook the oil (thinking it's been sitting for a while and needed to be mixed? I dunno, I'm an idiot) and so when I poured it in, I of course saw tons of bubbles. This of course didn't click until I had everything back together and the post was sagging. (It was not sagging before I took it apart).

    Oh well, gonna try again tonight after work.

  41. #941
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    Quote Originally Posted by zeppman View Post
    Chris, that worked, thanks.

    However I screwed something up putting it all back together. After assembly, the post worked, but had a ton of sag (probably could get it to compress 50% with my weight on it). It also did not feel smooth. I'm assuming I screwed up in putting everything back together and there is air trapped in the system. I was also a complete moron and shook the oil (thinking it's been sitting for a while and needed to be mixed? I dunno, I'm an idiot) and so when I poured it in, I of course saw tons of bubbles. This of course didn't click until I had everything back together and the post was sagging. (It was not sagging before I took it apart).

    Oh well, gonna try again tonight after work.
    You shook the oil?! Bro, it's not Yoohoo.

    Just redo it and pay very close attention when you insert the mechanism into the oil while holding down the actuator. And for God's Sake, Man....don't shake the oil!

  42. #942
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    Lol, I know man... There was beer involved, it was late, and I was tired... I knew it the second I put the seat post back in the bike and sat on it...

  43. #943
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    LOL. Props for fessing up to shaking the oil. Like I always tell myself: letís try that again but better. Haha. Let me know how the redo goes.

    Donít forget that you can test for sag before you reassemble the entire thing, after youíve closed the cartridge and recharged the air. Just try to compress it against your work bench.

    Good luck,
    Chris

  44. #944
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    Round 2 was a success. No sag and smooth operation. It will be a day or two before I know if the stuck piston issues is fixed though..

  45. #945
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    Nice! Keep us updated.

    Chris

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    Supernatural trigger died

    Hi All, I have an old Supernatural that was working well the past year even though it sat for probably 3 years on top of the extensive use I gave it initially. Now just the trigger has failed and it won't lock out. (Actually it's like it's triggered all the time.) Cable and the actuator seem OK and I don't think the mechanism is jammed.

    Is this something I can repair? Should I send it in for a rebuild?

    With all the options out there now and with it's age I'm not sure I should put any money into it. It may be time to retire it?

  47. #947
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    my post's actuator rod/end cap are not extending as far as they should. when I release the lever, the rod/cap extends about 1/2 as far as it should. if I had to guess, there's something wrong with the spring in the lower right corner of this pic.



    I can't figure out how to disassmeble that piece though. are the steps outlined somewhere? any idea where I could get a replacement spring?

  48. #948
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    Post #939 of this thread discusses that. You may just need to clean that damper out and actuate it a few times after you take it apart. It gets gumed up sometimes. Good luck.

    Chris

  49. #949
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    Quote Originally Posted by thegallery View Post
    Hi All, I have an old Supernatural that was working well the past year even though it sat for probably 3 years on top of the extensive use I gave it initially. Now just the trigger has failed and it won't lock out. (Actually it's like it's triggered all the time.) Cable and the actuator seem OK and I don't think the mechanism is jammed.

    Is this something I can repair? Should I send it in for a rebuild?

    With all the options out there now and with it's age I'm not sure I should put any money into it. It may be time to retire it?
    The SN is a PITA to work on in all honesty. My wife had one for a while and I ditched it for a LEV instead. You could try dripping some oil onto the piston that the actuator compresses because it may be stuck.

    If you get a new dropper, be sure to check out the Bike Yoke Revive.

    Good luck,
    Chris

  50. #950
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    Thank you for the detailed post! My KS Lev DS had about 3/16" loose vertical play that had gradually increased over the last six months. By loose, I mean it rattled when riding over bumpy ground when I was not on the seat! I pulled the post the other day ready to follow the procedure to purge air from the actuator. After pulling the post I discovered the bottom cap (shown in Christopher's first photo) was unthreaded by 3-4 turns. I tightened the bottom cap and lo, the vertical play was gone!

    I am a little surprised that I have not come across reports of this same condition in all the posts I've read or in talking with KS customer service. I assume the sag that results from air in the actuator post is easily distinguished from the vertical play due to a loose bottom cap. However if one is not aware that both conditions can result in vertical play, one might miss the very simple fix for the loose bottom cap!

  51. #951
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    Those two conditions are very discernable. The hydraulic issue is a very pronounced hydraulic "squish" that occurs only when one weights the seat. The other you speak of tends to be a looseness and the rattle that you speak of. Generally, significantly different between the two. You might check your 3 guide bushings to make sure that aren't worn excessively during the period of slack.

    Good thing you caught it on your's before things were damaged!

  52. #952
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    Isolator Pellet Substitute

    Quote Originally Posted by cakelly4 View Post
    "Isolator Pellets" This is bean bag filler - they're a little big but you can easily snip them down smaller with wire cutters to get the size you need:
    Darice Bean Bag Filler Plastic Pellets, 16 oz: Crafts : Walmart.com
    Hey Chris,

    Instead of buying a whole bag of bean bag filler, I've found that using wire cutters to snip little pieces from a nylon screw works really well as an isolator pellet workaround. 6/32 seems to be the perfect size where the threads don't catch inside the barrel but still fills it up pretty well. They're 25 cents at the hardware store and you can get a bunch of pellets out of one screw.

    KS LEV - DIY Cartridge Rebuild-img_0261.jpeg

    When snipping off the end of the screw, definitely go small. Too big and the grub screw will stick out. The perfectly round pellet on the right is the true "ks isolator pellet" purchased from Art's cyclery for a size reference.

    Thanks for the awesome tips,
    Xavier

  53. #953
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdealva View Post
    Thank you for the detailed post! My KS Lev DS had about 3/16" loose vertical play that had gradually increased over the last six months. By loose, I mean it rattled when riding over bumpy ground when I was not on the seat! I pulled the post the other day ready to follow the procedure to purge air from the actuator. After pulling the post I discovered the bottom cap (shown in Christopher's first photo) was unthreaded by 3-4 turns. I tightened the bottom cap and lo, the vertical play was gone!

    I am a little surprised that I have not come across reports of this same condition in all the posts I've read or in talking with KS customer service. I assume the sag that results from air in the actuator post is easily distinguished from the vertical play due to a loose bottom cap. However if one is not aware that both conditions can result in vertical play, one might miss the very simple fix for the loose bottom cap!
    Nice catch and glad it fixed easily for you. That issue is actually discussed somewhere fairly early on in this forum but itís easy to see how one may miss that. Thereís been a crazy number of posts on this thread. Thanks for posting a reminder.

    Quote Originally Posted by xaviervs View Post
    Hey Chris,

    Instead of buying a whole bag of bean bag filler, I've found that using wire cutters to snip little pieces from a nylon screw works really well as an isolator pellet workaround. 6/32 seems to be the perfect size where the threads don't catch inside the barrel but still fills it up pretty well. They're 25 cents at the hardware store and you can get a bunch of pellets out of one screw.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    When snipping off the end of the screw, definitely go small. Too big and the grub screw will stick out. The perfectly round pellet on the right is the true "ks isolator pellet" purchased from Art's cyclery for a size reference.

    Thanks for the awesome tips,
    Xavier
    Thatís an awesome tip! Thanks!!

    Chris

  54. #954
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    Hello everyone.
    Sorry for not reading whole thread, since its so large.

    I've had enough with my lev slowness and replaced stock oil (must be something like 5wt) with RockShox 2.5wt.

    Speed of post is now excellent, but week later i've noticed oil leakage from bottom of the cartridge. Looks like oil is too thin, which makes it able to go past seals.

    Is there anyone with similar problem?
    Are there any methods to fix this?

    Is it even worth fixing, or it is no go with 2.5wt?

    Thanks

  55. #955
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    Iíve used 5, 7, 10, and 15 weight oils and have had no such problem. Return speed is good with all of them as well. I would replace the seal on the cartridge end cap if thatís where you are seeing the leakage. If you canít pinpoint where the leakage is coming from, be sure to thoroughly inspect the slots on the cartridge where the copper guide bushings reside. Iíve seen a couple cartridges with a pinhole in one of those slots that slowly leaked oil and lead to eventual failure. Had to replace the entire cartridge in those cases.

    Good luck
    Chris

  56. #956
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    Just an observation and experience on that subject. I have had numerous now, newer posts that began squatting and ultimately leaking into the seat post tube. Again, very recent generation posts never having had work done on them. I have gone in and done complete rebuilds on these, including the inner U-type seal, of course, which is the only expensive seal of the whole group at about $5 a copy. In relatively short order, those posts have all trickled back into my hands with slower but continued leaking from the end cap. I was quite baffled at this having done precise work on the unit and running out of locations or possibilities of why they leak.

    This led to some very close scrutiny and examination after abandoning these cartridges and just replacing them with what costs me $58 bucks for a new one. I noticed a very significant difference in the quality of the original U-type seal. They are all urethane unlike all the other seals in the unit. The original seal has always proven to be a very rigid, un-pliable seal which caught my attention when comparing them to the new seal that I was installing which, though still somewhat rigid simply by design, was a lot more pliable and soft as you would expect from a seal's mating surface. Further inspection had me with a magnifying glass studying the damper shaft that the seal reacts upon and the shafts in all my testbed occasions have had what I would refer to as a "shitty anodizing coating" that if looked at closely as I am, you can see faint streaks of wear in the anodizing. Very, very hard to see with the naked eye but if you get it in the sun and understand what to look for, there it is and that's on top of what I would consider some substandard anodizing that again, observing at many angles in good light, you will see through the anodizing as if they just barely blessed these damper shafts in the bath when the coating is applied.

    Bottom line, a shitty chinese U type seal is wearing the shit out of the damper shaft allowing the oils of ANY viscosity to bypass that seal interface and replacing the seal adds a slight degree of fix for a very short period of time but the reality is the damper is done, rendering the system a "Leaky piece of shit" in technical terms.

    So, in conclusion and in my opinion, if you have a leaker, don't even consider a rebuild. Go straight to a new cartridge for <$60 and be done with it. If you have a squatter, by all means take the 30 minutes to make it right with $6 worth of seal replacements and enjoy another year of smooth, trouble free operation.

  57. #957
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    Looks like it's finally time to save up some for Revive.
    Thanks Oh My Sack!

  58. #958
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    Quote Originally Posted by prosto_mtb View Post
    Looks like it's finally time to save up some for Revive.
    Thanks Oh My Sack!
    I'll stick with the easily serviced LEV so when you go Revive, send me your LEV!

  59. #959
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    Hahaa. I have a Revive on one of my bikes and I must say that itís pretty bomb proof. Also easily serviceable (not thatís itís been needed yet) and the ďReviveĒ feature is pretty awesome. Itís not a bad way to go.

    Chris

  60. #960
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    are the glide rings (the white smooth rings on the shaft) of the ks lev or ks lev dx 'standard' sized? aside from the o-rings, has anyone ever had the chance to change them?
    Canfield Yelli Screamy

  61. #961
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    Quote Originally Posted by J6y View Post
    Has anyone carried this procedure out on a Lev DX? Any differences? I'm just getting the typical 1/2 drop and its doing my head in on climbs.
    if you look at the exploded view, most parts are interchangeable actually:

    http://www.kssuspension.com/wp-conte...2/2018-LEV.pdf

    http://www.kssuspension.com/wp-conte...018-LEV-DX.pdf

    There's a subtle physical difference in the cartridge, which contributes to how the saddle clamp assembly is rotated. Look at the top and bottom parts of the cartridge.

    I think changing the seal collar and housing cap assembly can essentially make a lev dx look like a lev
    Canfield Yelli Screamy

  62. #962
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    Just took apart a LEV DX and found the damper/piston has snapped off the inner tube. Does anyone know where I can get these parts?

  63. #963
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    Universal cycles

    Sent from my SM-J250G using Tapatalk
    Canfield Yelli Screamy

  64. #964
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    Quote Originally Posted by spyghost View Post
    Universal cycles

    Sent from my SM-J250G using Tapatalk
    Thanks for the suggestion, but, they donít seem to carry these parts. I canít find anyone that does.

  65. #965
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    Quote Originally Posted by welshmike View Post
    Thanks for the suggestion, but, they donít seem to carry these parts. I canít find anyone that does.
    With such easy availability of new cartridges, it would seem the small internals are a bit tough to find. Personally, I'd just roll with a fresh cartridge and be done with it. No seals, oil, or labor to make it happen.

  66. #966
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    Hi everyone, this is a great thread. Have a question about my LEV272 I didn't see answered on all the pages, or I missed it. What length do you cut the inner Kevlar line at for the LEV272?

    I saw the KS LEV Service video that explains to cut the inner Kevlar line at 15mm but is it the same for the LEV272?

    I ask because I replaced it without seeing the video first (didn't know their was one) and it looks like I did mine around 17mm. See attached photo.

    Mine works perfect but I'm wondering if its wrong? I feel if I did it at 15mm the valve would be open a little (without it being engaged) and the seat would sink if I sat on it.

    KS LEV - DIY Cartridge Rebuild-20180719_105240.jpg

    Thanks for any info

  67. #967
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    First of all, thnx for this DIY manual!!
    I used it on my 2nd gen LEV integra.
    The sag issue looks like resolved... but... With the correct pressure the post ony can go up and down for about 1,5 inch.. (Without sag) I can pull it to full length but then it bungies back. I can't figure out what I am doing wrong and all the parts look OK.
    Any help please?

  68. #968
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    Sounds like you have an issue with the damper valving. Did you have any issues when you placed the damper rod into the oil bath? That can be a tricky process. It sounds like the valving isn't actuating correctly and not allowing the oil to bypass the valve when opened as the seat extends therefore creating a suction.

    My recommendation is pull it off the bike, take the bottom cap off, put the saddle clamp portion on a protected surface and try manually releasing the actuator (I use a 3mm hex wrench as a lever) and compressing and releasing and see what result you get, actively bypassing all the cable actuator apparatus. If you still have an issue, tear it down and redo the assembly process paying VERY close attention to placing the damper rod back into the oil bath. Double check the process in the photos and instruction section at the beginning of this thread. You HAVE to press the actuator rod while placing the damper in the oil to allow oil to bypass through the valve as you carefully and very slowly fit the mechanism into the oil bath. STOP as soon as the gold damper rod is just below the level of oil. That can be the tricky part as once it starts to go in after careful manipulation, it wants to go in quickly and too deep. (I know, that's what she said. )

  69. #969
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    I think it's IFP bottoming out in the lowest part of seatpost too early.
    I've experienced similar issue when U seal at bottom was leaking oil.

  70. #970
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    Any help with my question?

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

  71. #971
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    Quote Originally Posted by LoneWolf8o View Post
    Any help with my question?

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
    My thoughts, roll with it since it's working. The 272 is treated pretty much like the LEV DX so 15mm is the cut length. For some slightly extraneous info, where it differs significantly is its cartridge make up. Don't bother attempting a cartridge rebuild on it as this thread depicts because the cartridge doesn't allow for easy air recharging. There is very little info out there on the subject and since I get cartridges for about $60, I won't waste my time on a rebuild attempt. I have a 272 that works beautifully on my Karate Monkey SS aside from being a slow return...which all 272's are afflicted. I have a brand new cartridge sitting here waiting for the day when mine gives up the ghost. I "might" try a rebuild just for giggles if I get good and drunk but that doesn't happen much, if ever so don't hold your breath for a right up!

    I'm gonna stab a guess that your 17mm measurement is functioning as a condition of your adjuster up at the actuator noodle. A couple twists outward would take up that slack and allow it to work. When I set up the units I do, I generally tighten that adjuster to it's limit, then back it off a couple turns so I can account for a bit of shortness but it allows me to add tension to the housing if that's necessary. Your's may have just been adjusted perfectly for your situation and that's why it works but again, 15mm IS the cut length as I recall.

  72. #972
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oh My Sack! View Post
    Sounds like you have an issue with the damper valving. Did you have any issues when you placed the damper rod into the oil bath? That can be a tricky process. It sounds like the valving isn't actuating correctly and not allowing the oil to bypass the valve when opened as the seat extends therefore creating a suction.

    My recommendation is pull it off the bike, take the bottom cap off, put the saddle clamp portion on a protected surface and try manually releasing the actuator (I use a 3mm hex wrench as a lever) and compressing and releasing and see what result you get, actively bypassing all the cable actuator apparatus. If you still have an issue, tear it down and redo the assembly process paying VERY close attention to placing the damper rod back into the oil bath. Double check the process in the photos and instruction section at the beginning of this thread. You HAVE to press the actuator rod while placing the damper in the oil to allow oil to bypass through the valve as you carefully and very slowly fit the mechanism into the oil bath. STOP as soon as the gold damper rod is just below the level of oil. That can be the tricky part as once it starts to go in after careful manipulation, it wants to go in quickly and too deep. (I know, that's what she said. )
    Thank you Oh My Sack!

    I confirmed that the problem is not the actuator / cable/ lever, so I will redo the assembly of the cartridge soon!
    Am am using W15 oil by the way, this cant be the problem according to earlier posts

    Do I have the push the acuator rod all the way down , or just until the damper valve is under oil level?

    Sorry I m (not a native english speaker) not sure I understand the part ďjust below the level of oil. That can be the tricky part as once it starts to go in after careful manipulation, it wants to go in quickly and too deep.Ē
    Does this mean that oil is not allowed to go into the golden tube of the damper?

  73. #973
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    Thanks, I set the adjuster barrel to what the hand book said to before doing anything. But I get what your saying how you can use it to fine tune how it works with were you end up making the length to.

    I got a extra line to do it over but I agree with you, i should leave it alone if its working. Its actually shooting up really fast and making that ping sound when it stops at full extension lol. Must have found the sweet spot.
    Quote Originally Posted by Oh My Sack! View Post
    My thoughts, roll with it since it's working. The 272 is treated pretty much like the LEV DX so 15mm is the cut length. For some slightly extraneous info, where it differs significantly is its cartridge make up. Don't bother attempting a cartridge rebuild on it as this thread depicts because the cartridge doesn't allow for easy air recharging. There is very little info out there on the subject and since I get cartridges for about $60, I won't waste my time on a rebuild attempt. I have a 272 that works beautifully on my Karate Monkey SS aside from being a slow return...which all 272's are afflicted. I have a brand new cartridge sitting here waiting for the day when mine gives up the ghost. I "might" try a rebuild just for giggles if I get good and drunk but that doesn't happen much, if ever so don't hold your breath for a right up!

    I'm gonna stab a guess that your 17mm measurement is functioning as a condition of your adjuster up at the actuator noodle. A couple twists outward would take up that slack and allow it to work. When I set up the units I do, I generally tighten that adjuster to it's limit, then back it off a couple turns so I can account for a bit of shortness but it allows me to add tension to the housing if that's necessary. Your's may have just been adjusted perfectly for your situation and that's why it works but again, 15mm IS the cut length as I recall.
    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

  74. #974
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    Quote Originally Posted by LoneWolf8o View Post
    Thanks, I set the adjuster barrel to what the hand book said to before doing anything. But I get what your saying how you can use it to fine tune how it works with were you end up making the length to.

    I got a extra line to do it over but I agree with you, i should leave it alone if its working. Its actually shooting up really fast and making that ping sound when it stops at full extension lol. Must have found the sweet spot.

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
    Wow! you're lucky your's is a fast rise. Most I have seen are typical rather slow in comparison to the any of the units we can adjust pressures.

  75. #975
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    Quote Originally Posted by dapiedro View Post
    Thank you Oh My Sack!

    I confirmed that the problem is not the actuator / cable/ lever, so I will redo the assembly of the cartridge soon!
    Am am using W15 oil by the way, this cant be the problem according to earlier posts

    Do I have the push the acuator rod all the way down , or just until the damper valve is under oil level?

    Sorry I m (not a native english speaker) not sure I understand the part ďjust below the level of oil. That can be the tricky part as once it starts to go in after careful manipulation, it wants to go in quickly and too deep.Ē
    Does this mean that oil is not allowed to go into the golden tube of the damper?
    Pay very close attention to THIS part in the photo as well as the install of the IFP a few photos above where this one came from.

    Name:  1148274d1500942845t-ks-lev-diy-cartridge-rebuild-csc_0019.jpg
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    You have to actuate the rod at this point to open the valve while you slide it in. Once the silver valving is in the oil, STOP just as the gold rod is very slightly below the oil level. It's a tricky process keeping the rod depressed and carefully inserting against the tightness of the seals. I have had to do this step numerous times in one sitting because it finally pops in and goes in to far. At this point, you stop and close it up by threading the end on and tightening with a spanner. It's possible at this point to air it up to maybe 50 psi or a bit more and check it for correct operation. If it's not working correctly at this point, something is wrong.

    Hopefully this explains it a little better and reduces confusion.

  76. #976
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oh My Sack! View Post
    Pay very close attention to THIS part in the photo as well as the install of the IFP a few photos above where this one came from.

    Name:  1148274d1500942845t-ks-lev-diy-cartridge-rebuild-csc_0019.jpg
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    You have to actuate the rod at this point to open the valve while you slide it in. Once the silver valving is in the oil, STOP just as the gold rod is very slightly below the oil level. It's a tricky process keeping the rod depressed and carefully inserting against the tightness of the seals. I have had to do this step numerous times in one sitting because it finally pops in and goes in to far. At this point, you stop and close it up by threading the end on and tightening with a spanner. It's possible at this point to air it up to maybe 50 psi or a bit more and check it for correct operation. If it's not working correctly at this point, something is wrong.

    Hopefully this explains it a little better and reduces confusion.
    Yessss! No it's completely clear to me!
    (Also the last phrase in your first reply &#128516
    And it worked! All the travel and no sag!
    Tomorrow test ride..

    Thank you very much!!

  77. #977
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oh My Sack! View Post
    Wow! you're lucky your's is a fast rise. Most I have seen are typical rather slow in comparison to the any of the units we can adjust pressures.
    I believe it has to do with the tension I set on the kevlar string. My first attempt I made sure the line was "tight" when attaching the string to the barrel that goes to the linkage arm that rest on the push rod end cap. I had it all routed as I tightened the barrel but notice afterwards the swing arm was ever so slightly resting on the push rod end cap and the string wasn't that "tight" at rest. But figured that's how its supposed to be. But when I went to test it I noticed it wasn't snappy like my other reverb dropper. It felt under powered like it always felt a little but this time a little worse. I thought the valve maybe wasn't being opened enough because the kevlar string stretched as I've heard happens with time.

    I checked the barrel adjustment at the handle bars to get max travel in the little black box on the side of the seat post. I noticed if I took the cable off and manually grabbed the barrel that's attached to the kevlar string and pulled on it the seat would shoot up like a rocket. So that made me think it wasn't engaging the valve enough.

    So I decided to try and take up the little slack on the line and redo it with a new line and barrels. This time I engaged the swing arm a little (as if it was engaging the mechanism that opens the valve) and tightened it there. Doing it that way the line is very tight and I'd say there is actual pressure, not a lot but very little pressure on the push rod end cap in its resting stage. I was worried the valve may be open slightly and I would get a slow drop sitting on it during extended rides, but I have not run into this problem, at least not yet. I've also let it sit with the seat all the way down to see if it would creep up in time and it hasn't.

    Basically I think they needed more throw in the system. Think that box on the side of the seat post where your cable hooks to the barrel that attaches to the kevlar string should be 1 to 2mm longer so you can get more travel with the cable and in doing so more travel threw the kevlar string. Since we can't change the box design, I figured I'd try to get as much travel as I could to that valve threw making sure that kevlar line was really tight.

    Hope I explained this in a way others can understand.

    BTW, I've had this dropper since 2014.

  78. #978
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    Just posting a note here for the 27.2 Lev owners trying to re-pressurize their posts.

    I used a slightly modified 20 gauge 3ml syringe like so: Glue Syringes - Lee Valley Tools

    Grind a bit of a bevel onto the blunt syringe tip using a diamond stone or similar then with a bit of force against the fill hole it should fill reasonably well. Fill the 14mm recess with some spare oil so you can see if you're having success getting air into the post or if you're just making bubbles.

    Also I don't think you need to do all the work to get this adapted to a shock pump. The needle is ~47mm stroke from 3ml to 0ml markings, so that's a surface area of .63cm^2 or .097 square inches, which gives the syringe user a roughly 10:1 advantage, so 1psi of syringe plunger force generates 10psi. 25lbs should give around 250psi. It's not exact, but I think we're mostly looking for post feel/speed not some exact number. It will take a fair number of syringes full of air to reach reasonable pressure in the post, but I didn't find it particularly challenging to do so once I had a bit of practice.

    Hopefully this makes this slightly easier for some.

  79. #979
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    What just happened ??
    during a ride, i felt that my KS LEV stopped working (didn't want to go up) and remote works suspiciously light, after touching the saddle and trying to move it up, i felt to resistance and i saw a bit of oil (and some strange noises), i knew that's the end...

    at home, it looks like inner rod detached itself from cartridge ? something snapped or just unscrewed ?
    KS LEV - DIY Cartridge Rebuild-uyfuuvg.jpg
    KS LEV - DIY Cartridge Rebuild-9vrpuyb.jpg

  80. #980
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    The damper assembly at the end of that rod snapped off. Iíve seen that 2 other times. Warranty the post if you can. If you canít, youíll need a new cartridge.

    Good luck
    Chris

  81. #981
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    last rebuild (new cartridge) was more than 2y ago, so i guess no warranty...

  82. #982
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    Thatís a bummer but also a pretty long span between issues for the LEV so at least you got good use out of it. If you did the previous cartridge swap yourself last time and still have the old cartridge, you could always use the damper and rod from the old one to rebuild your current one. If not, at least cartridges are less expensive than an entire post and the swap is pretty easy.

    Good luck!
    Chris

  83. #983
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    KS LEV - DIY Cartridge Rebuild

    Question slightly off topic. I serviced my Ks 150 integra today and after it was put back on I could hear some loud noise thatís wasnít there before. Prior to this service it sounded almost bare or not lubricated. Then after the service the noise sounded more like air. Then after about 5 minutes it started to sag. I took off the dropper to double check what happened. I felt like I didnít tighten the end cap actuator assembly well enough so maybe that was it. It turned out that the threads had snapped inside the cartridge end as I was re tightening it. Fortunately I was able to get the threaded piece out.

    Now do you think the issue was from the loose endcap threads? Did it break because it wasnít tight enough? I ordered the replacement parts I needed in hopes that the cartridge wasnít the issue OR became an issue because of what Happened to the end cap. Any help would be great.


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    I did want to add that I can feel the sag if I put my finger on the Cartridge rod End and push on the seat.

  84. #984
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    Take the cartridge out and with it in full extension, try compressing it against your work bench. If it doesnít sag, your cartridge should be fine. Thatís always the easiest way to trouble shoot if the cartridge is the problem or not.

    Good luck
    Chris

  85. #985
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    I just finished rebuilding my Lev with a whole new cartridge, new bushing, new seal head and new internal string. I forgot to order isolator pellets but did the hack mentioned above and used cut pieces of the nylon screws mentioned above, which seems to work just fine. The action, both up and down, seems kinda slow, especially teh return..actually havent used it in six months or so so dont really remember if thats normal. the internal string is tight with the actuator arm touching the push rod, the string is in the pulleys, and the exernal cable is adjusted tight. I have the southpaw lever and new housing on order, maybe thatll help. Anyone have any ideas?
    '18 banshee rune

  86. #986
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    Check that the pressure is set at a minimum of 150 psi. I typically set mine to 200 psi and you can go as high as 250 psi.

    Also, I sound like a broken record, but I always suspect the Kevlar cable tension when things are slow or inconsistent. Even a difference of 1 mm length can make a pretty big difference. If you have extra cable to play with, thatís where I would start if pressure isnít the solution.

    Make sure the new DU bushing slides freely on the cartridge as well. Thatís all I can think of for now.

    Good luck
    Chris

  87. #987
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    Psi is 225. inner cable tension was perfect before i put on the cap, i checked it a few times. Maybe the new bushing and cartridge need to break in?
    '18 banshee rune

  88. #988
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    Quote Originally Posted by LoneWolf8o View Post
    I believe it has to do with the tension I set on the kevlar string. My first attempt I made sure the line was "tight" when attaching the string to the barrel that goes to the linkage arm that rest on the push rod end cap. I had it all routed as I tightened the barrel but notice afterwards the swing arm was ever so slightly resting on the push rod end cap and the string wasn't that "tight" at rest. But figured that's how its supposed to be. But when I went to test it I noticed it wasn't snappy like my other reverb dropper. It felt under powered like it always felt a little but this time a little worse. I thought the valve maybe wasn't being opened enough because the kevlar string stretched as I've heard happens with time.

    I checked the barrel adjustment at the handle bars to get max travel in the little black box on the side of the seat post. I noticed if I took the cable off and manually grabbed the barrel that's attached to the kevlar string and pulled on it the seat would shoot up like a rocket. So that made me think it wasn't engaging the valve enough.

    So I decided to try and take up the little slack on the line and redo it with a new line and barrels. This time I engaged the swing arm a little (as if it was engaging the mechanism that opens the valve) and tightened it there. Doing it that way the line is very tight and I'd say there is actual pressure, not a lot but very little pressure on the push rod end cap in its resting stage. I was worried the valve may be open slightly and I would get a slow drop sitting on it during extended rides, but I have not run into this problem, at least not yet. I've also let it sit with the seat all the way down to see if it would creep up in time and it hasn't.

    Basically I think they needed more throw in the system. Think that box on the side of the seat post where your cable hooks to the barrel that attaches to the kevlar string should be 1 to 2mm longer so you can get more travel with the cable and in doing so more travel threw the kevlar string. Since we can't change the box design, I figured I'd try to get as much travel as I could to that valve threw making sure that kevlar line was really tight.

    Hope I explained this in a way others can understand.

    BTW, I've had this dropper since 2014.
    I wonder if a quick hack would to be to remove (or cut in half) the little return spring in the junction box, that spring bottoms out with several millimeters left in the box. Theres also a return spring in the cartridge right? When i press that piston just with my finger, it does spring back. this would open up the full stroke of the junction box. Would anything bad happen without that spring? I may experiment with this before I readjust the string tension.
    Edit: just realized, duh, there a peg inside the spring, which also bottoms out when the spring does. wonder if maybe cutting that off would work. The junction box seems poorly designed, need more throw and adjustability.
    Last edited by dwyooaj; 08-24-2018 at 09:01 AM.
    '18 banshee rune

  89. #989
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    Yeah, when i just manually pull on the barrel at the junction box, action is fast. Even though the actuator lever is butted up against the piston and string tight, I guess thats not good enough, like someone mentioned above make it a bit tighter so theres actually a bit of pressure on the piston when no engaged. Poor design with not enoug throw.
    '18 banshee rune

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    In theory I get what your saying about cutting the spring. I dont have my bike to look at right now but do remember when u engage it the spring does become fully compressed and in a way limits more travel. I would definitely not remove and use no spring but maybe cutting a coil will help. Personally I feel you would be better off finding a sweet spot like I did. Only thing is it may turn into a trial and error thing before you get it right. Which can end up costing you money in replacement string or those little pellets that go in the barrel. I'd suggest maybe only lightly tightening it enough so you can confirm it's in a ideal spot before cranking it down all the way.

    Image the string should be tight kind of like a guitar string. How I used to have it the spring would feel like there was no tension on it when u touched it, even though looking at it it looked like there was no play. How it is now you can feel the string is under light tension. If that makes sense to you.

    BTW, Mine is still shooting up fast and theirs no creeping going on meaning it's not sinking or going up by itself unless I engage the lever.

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

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    Well, I fixed the slow return speed. With a hack. The kevlar string did not have enough tension, even though the actuator arm was snug against the piston. Instead of redoing teh string and barrels, I wrapped some thick sturdy 1/4" wide tape around the arm where it contacts the piston, about a millimeter thick or so, to fill up the space more, until the tension was perfect. Worked like a charm! See how it holds up long term, i can always add more, or do a new string when im less lazy.
    '18 banshee rune

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    I'm trying to replace the cartridge on my LEV Integra. I can't figure out how the lower seat clamp removes from the old cartridge. Does it thread on or is it a tapered friction fit (i.e. like a crown race)? I can't figure out how to remove it. Thanks.

    BTW, I rebuilt my cartridge (just new oil, no seals yet) that developed 1/2" sag and no sag now (at least not on the bench)

  93. #993
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    Quote Originally Posted by neons97 View Post
    I'm trying to replace the cartridge on my LEV Integra. I can't figure out how the lower seat clamp removes from the old cartridge. Does it thread on or is it a tapered friction fit (i.e. like a crown race)? I can't figure out how to remove it. Thanks.
    it's not tight mounted (like crown race), however when there is a bit of dirt, it could 'bond' a bit, just play with it a bit, you could hit it with a rubber hammer on both sides in turns. no thread or anything else there
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    It also tends to get deformed so that it pinches the cartridge. I second the rubber mallet technique (actually I often use a plastic dead blow hammer). As a heads up, when you attempt to place it back on the new cartridge, it may be a little difficult but I learned a great technique for this:

    1. Slide the collar on to the cartridge as far as it will go.
    2. Line the front and back up properly.
    3. Place the cartridge in the rubber jaws of your bike stand vertically, then loosen the jaws enough so that the cartridge is being suspended from the jaws by the clamp head.
    4. Place the lower saddle clamp plate on the cradle of the cartridge to provide a flat surface.
    5. Whack that surface with a dead blow or rubber mallet to ďpressĒ the collar into position on the cartridge.

    Chris

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    Quote Originally Posted by dwyooaj View Post
    Well, I fixed the slow return speed. With a hack. The kevlar string did not have enough tension, even though the actuator arm was snug against the piston. Instead of redoing teh string and barrels, I wrapped some thick sturdy 1/4" wide tape around the arm where it contacts the piston, about a millimeter thick or so, to fill up the space more, until the tension was perfect. Worked like a charm! See how it holds up long term, i can always add more, or do a new string when im less lazy.
    I never tried it but you may want to look into a cheap "feeler gauge" at a auto parts store. Pick one of the thicknesses you think you will need and either crazy glue it or and make tabs that will keep it in place. I'd have to guess the tape will not work for long. You can also try different materials like maybe cutting a soda can.

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

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    ....or just make the cable tighter. Itís a lot simpler.

    Chris

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    I agree but the comment was to the member using tape in the mean time.

    People need to realize there is a chance you won't be able to readjust the tension without needing a new barrel or string. So if you're in a jam and don't have those replacement parts on hand this is also a option.

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

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    Brilliant thread here. Thanks for making the effort to compile such a useful guide. Just rebuilt my lev integra and the sag has gone, hopefully for good.

    Ive not read evety post so apologies if Im repeating things but heres some tips that may be of use.

    To get the IFP back onto the 14mm tube I cut the plastic nozzle off a silicon sealant tube to make a cone so that the wide end was 14mm. Grease the nozzle and push it into the IFP to spread the seal. Use the 14mm tube to push the plastic nozzle through the IFP and the IFP seal just slips onto the tube as the nozzle and tube pass through.

    To hold the seat post steady use an old handle bar stem and hold the stem in a vice. 31.6mm and 31.8 are close enough to hold the post securely

    To hold the 10mm cartridge tube take 2 bits of plywood/ MDF 1/2 to 3/4 inch thick roughly 2 inches square. Put the 2 wide faces together and clamp securely. Drill an 11mm hole centred on the join in the 2 pieces. Separate the pieces and youll have a semi circular slot along the face of each piece. Wrap a piece of inner tube round the 10mm tube so its only 1 layer thick. Sit the bits of wood either side of the inner tube and clamp the lot in a vice. Should hold it nice and tight.

    On earlier integras the mast end piece that screws into the seat post and the cartridge tube and that the cable attaches to, had a weak threaded piece that screws into the 10mm cartridge tube. This easily snaps off if you tighten as in the KS service video. This is best hand tightened and nipped up very gently with further 1/16 turn. I followed the KS video and sheared mine off! When the replacement came the hole through the threaded section was smaller making the threaded section stronger. Youll need to buy an updated cap for the release rod as later ones are smaller to fit through the revised mast end piece.

    Hope that all makes sense and useful

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    Thanks to all who've posted on here. I was wondering if anybody else has found it near impossible to get the end cap back on in step 14b? I insert the push rod to the proper depth and go to thread on the end cap, but can't even get the threads started because it's hydraulically locking the oil once I get the o-ring against the stanchion. I try pushing down on the valve but that's not really much help at all. My post is a lev dx 125mm FWIW, any input would be appreciated.

  100. #1000
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    Quote Originally Posted by larry08 View Post
    Thanks to all who've posted on here. I was wondering if anybody else has found it near impossible to get the end cap back on in step 14b? I insert the push rod to the proper depth and go to thread on the end cap, but can't even get the threads started because it's hydraulically locking the oil once I get the o-ring against the stanchion. I try pushing down on the valve but that's not really much help at all. My post is a lev dx 125mm FWIW, any input would be appreciated.
    Are you using a good spanner wrench on the fitting? I agree, it can be tough to get the threads to bite and you have to be cautious of cross threading but I use a Park Tool #2 Spanner that locks into the fitting well and allows even pressure to be applied to prevent cross thread. One thing I do is actually rotate the thread in the wrong direction (anti-clockwise) for a half turn until it indexes level and usually immediately engages correctly upon turning clockwise.

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