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  1. #401
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    I installed a 125mm Lev on my Tallboy this weekend. No problem with the installation.

    On my first ride I noticed the post dropped fine but was reluctant to rise. If I had it dropped for a few seconds it might rise up on its own. But if I left it down for any amount of time, the post would not rise up unless I "tapped" it with my bottom. Then it would come right up. Almost like it was getting stuck on something.

    I tried different cable tensions (with the inline adjuster) and that made no difference. I did not try different air pressures; I'm using what it came with.

    I've emailed Kindshock this weekend but haven't heard back from them. I was wondering if anyone here has experienced this or knows of a solution?

  2. #402
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    Quote Originally Posted by LeonD View Post
    I've emailed Kindshock this weekend but haven't heard back from them. I was wondering if anyone here has experienced this or knows of a solution?
    May be your seatpost coller is too tight.

  3. #403
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    Didn't think of that but it makes sense. I used the torque value they recommended but could try a little easier. Just don't want the post to slip obviously.

    Thanks.

  4. #404
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    Quote Originally Posted by LeonD View Post
    Didn't think of that but it makes sense. I used the torque value they recommended but could try a little easier. Just don't want the post to slip obviously.

    Thanks.
    Got the same problem so worth a try! Iput a little of friction paste.

  5. #405
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    Yeah, try friction paste and less torque...
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  6. #406
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    For one thing the seals need to break in and are sticky at first. Also the pressure range is 150-250psi. Mine came with about 180 in it. More air will make it pop up quicker and not stick but takes more force to push down. The only hitch is you need to remove the saddle to adjust this. I put 160 in and lile how easily the post pushes down but also have it hessitate some coming up. I've finally found my perfect seat position so I'm hesitant to pull it off and up the pressure. I'm hoping the sticking goes away in a couple more rides.
    Keep the Country country.

  7. #407
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    So I re torqued the post to 6NM instead of 7NM. Riding up and down the driveway, it seemed better.

    What's odd is that in the work stand, it always comes up (even before I loosened the bolt). It's not till I'm really riding the bike that the post stays down. I'll take it in the woods after work.

    Not sure if this will help coming up or not but I might try putting more air in the post. It feels like it's compressing too quickly when I have it go down.

    Thanks for all the help.

  8. #408
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    Quote Originally Posted by LeonD View Post
    Not sure if this will help coming up or not but I might try putting more air in the post. It feels like it's compressing too quickly when I have it go down.
    Adding more air will fix both those problems. Before putting my seat on I felt the post with 150 & 250psi (I chose 160 but now think I should have done 180). Big difference in the pressure required to push it down and how quickly it comes up. You're looking for enough force to overcome the stiction holding it down and enough resistance when lowering to easily find the height you want. What you don't want is so much resistance when lowering that you're having to push the seat down with your ass while being hit with bumps.
    Keep the Country country.

  9. #409
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    So I torqued the seat binder to 6NM (instead of 7NM) and put in 220 psi of air (up from 150 psi) and went out for a ride last night.

    For the first 30 minutes, the post worked fine. After that, it started happening again. If I rode with the post dropped for any length of time, it would not rise when I hit the lever. I would have to tap it to come back up.

    If I only drop the post for a few seconds, it'll come back up. The problem is when the post is dropped and ridden that way.

    I emailed KindShock either Fri or Sat and haven't heard back from them. I would think a company would be responsive to someone buying $400 seatposts. Hopefully they'll stand behind their product.

  10. #410
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    I have the 27.2x100 and it worked for a month. Now, The post does not stay down when pushing it halfway (2-3 inches). It slowly goes back up.

    When the post is all the way down then it stays down. Sent it back to KS

    (BTW, I know the hook needs to be facing out when hooking it to the barrel, however is there a trick on how to slide the hook easily to the barrel ?)
    It's a chronic addiction

  11. #411
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    I pulled the barrel out a little and was able to slide the hook behind it on the first try.

  12. #412
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    Quote Originally Posted by LeonD View Post
    I pulled the barrel out a little and was able to slide the hook behind it on the first try.
    ^This. Use needle-nose pliers to grab the barrel and pull it down and out so the hook can easily be clipped behind it.
    Keep the Country country.

  13. #413
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    KS Lev install Wtf ?

    How do I get the post to go up for install ? I watched the video and it doesn't mention how to do it. I took the red cover off and pulled down on the spot where the remote spring hooks up and nothing happened. Am I a moron? Just dropped good coin on this thing. Any help would be greatly appreciated

  14. #414
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    Quote Originally Posted by GoBuffs View Post
    How do I get the post to go up for install ? I watched the video and it doesn't mention how to do it. I took the red cover off and pulled down on the spot where the remote spring hooks up and nothing happened. Am I a moron? Just dropped good coin on this thing. Any help would be greatly appreciated
    Did you try using needle nose pliers to grab the barrel and pull it down?
    Keep the Country country.

  15. #415
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lelandjt View Post
    Did you try using needle nose pliers to grab the barrel and pull it down?
    I used a pen to push it down. I cycled it 3 or 4 times and nothing

  16. #416
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    The locking mechanism will be released when the barrel and its string are pulled about halfway down. At that point air pressure is pushing the post up and stiction is trying to hold it in place. New posts are sometimes sticky and mine came with only 170ish PSI so it needed a tug to come up the first time. It resisted coming up a couple times during my first couple rides as well until the bushings and seals broke it.
    Keep the Country country.

  17. #417
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    My first LEV was fine for about a year or so until the Kevlar wire broke. Sent the post for a warranty repair job and since I knew it'd take awhile I bought another LEV.

    Well, this Fu**** showed similar symptoms like described above. The post doesn't lock down/up. This time the post was good for only a couple of weeks. Great.

  18. #418
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    I just stuck the hook on the cable and used that to pull down the barrel. It took a couple of tugs on the seat to bring it up.

  19. #419
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    Quote Originally Posted by T_E View Post
    I have the 27.2x100 and it worked for a month. Now, The post does not stay down when pushing it halfway (2-3 inches). It slowly goes back up.

    When the post is all the way down then it stays down. Sent it back to KS

    (BTW, I know the hook needs to be facing out when hooking it to the barrel, however is there a trick on how to slide the hook easily to the barrel ?)
    Update:

    The post is still sitting @ KS USA one week to the day after they received it. Apparently, they are slowly finding issues with the 27.2. I was told they have to wait for the parts and tools coming from Taiwan.

    One of the issues is the cap valve not maintaining enough psi since that size, 27.2 that is, psi is set up in the production facility. I ask for replacement but was told they only do repair here in the US. Oh well... Just an update
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  20. #420
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    wow, seems like mucho problemo. Hope KS fix the problem soon.

  21. #421
    k_z
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    Just out of curiosity - how do you mount your bikes in a repair stands with Lev ? There is nothing in the manual about it, everybody seems to think it's not recommended but bike on a stand is much less load on the post than actual riding. What do you do ?

  22. #422
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    Here is a cut and paste from an email exchange with KS.


    -----Original Message-----
    From: scott.g
    Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2013 11:48 AM
    To: ron@kssuspension.com
    Subject: Contact message from Scott

    Hi purchased and installed a LEV recently and I am very happy with it. Thanks for having the service videos available, the serviceability was one of the factors that convinced me to choose the LEV.

    I have two questions:

    My repair stand clamp fits on the sliding mast between the seat and the collar. Assuming I keep everything clean and protected is there any reason I shouldn't clamp the upper post section in the stand?

    I store my bikes suspended from their saddles, hooked over a closet rod which is hanging from the ceiling. Is this ok for the LEV? The bike is a little bit under 27 lbs.

    I left a phone message yesterday and did receive a call back from Ron but I missed the call and shortly there after my phone bricked.

    Thanks-
    Scott


    REPLY:


    Should be fine

    Respectfully,

    Ron Easton
    KS USA
    26741 Portola Pkwy 1E658
    Foothill Ranch CA 92610

  23. #423
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    Is Ron the only person who works for KS-USA?

    For the work stand, I still use a QR, unhook the cable and raise the post out of the frame to clamp the post slider rather than stanchion.

    I set the angle so the post is purely in tension, no bending moment so I don't worry too much about the minimum insertion mark.

  24. #424
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    Quote Originally Posted by k_z View Post
    Just out of curiosity - how do you mount your bikes in a repair stands with Lev ? There is nothing in the manual about it, everybody seems to think it's not recommended but bike on a stand is much less load on the post than actual riding. What do you do ?
    I use this:
    KS LEV 125mm. Am I the first to have?-yatta2-1.jpg

    KS LEV 125mm. Am I the first to have?-lev.jpg

  25. #425
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    I've seen a mechanic clamp to the rear end of the seat's rails.

    I almost never use my stand, except for major bike building. I'm so used to flipping the bike over onto the bars and seat to do maintenance, or just leaned against a wall or tree.

  26. #426
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    In the midst of installing mine. Anybody have problems with remote lever? Fully torqued mine still slips (Easton bar). I guess I'll have to file it down a bit. But a bit frustrating on such an expensive item. Also, is that some sort of string that pulls the barrel on post down? Durability seems pretty good from what I read, but have to admit that worries me. Hope I don't regret not waiting for the Thomson...

  27. #427
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    Quote Originally Posted by chunkylover53 View Post
    In the midst of installing mine. Anybody have problems with remote lever? Fully torqued mine still slips (Easton bar). I guess I'll have to file it down a bit. But a bit frustrating on such an expensive item. Also, is that some sort of string that pulls the barrel on post down? Durability seems pretty good from what I read, but have to admit that worries me. Hope I don't regret not waiting for the Thomson...
    No problems here, although I'm using mine on a ODI grip. Are you just clamping it to the bars? I have those same Easton bars, and maybe the smooth finish is causing it to slip more than a shot peened or powder coated handlebar would.

    I wouldn't be afraid to torque that clamp down a bit more. Alternately you could use some carbon seatpost paste, which adds some grit in between the two surfaces.
    "Got everything you need?"

  28. #428
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    Yes, right onto easton sl bar. Thing is , I can't torque it any more - two ends of clamp are together. Seems like filing a bit off is only answer.

  29. #429
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    That's pretty strange. Maybe try some sandpaper to inside of the clamp to rough up the surface a bit?
    "Got everything you need?"

  30. #430
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    One wrap of tape of your choice (I used Gorilla). It will tighten down on the bars nicely.

    Quote Originally Posted by chunkylover53 View Post
    In the midst of installing mine. Anybody have problems with remote lever? Fully torqued mine still slips (Easton bar). I guess I'll have to file it down a bit. But a bit frustrating on such an expensive item. Also, is that some sort of string that pulls the barrel on post down? Durability seems pretty good from what I read, but have to admit that worries me. Hope I don't regret not waiting for the Thomson...

  31. #431
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    Those must be some thin bars because I have mine on Easton Haven (alum) bars and the remote tightened down easily. I like the tape idea. Another you might try is if you have an old inner tube. I cut a piece of old inner tube and wrapped it around my bars in the spot where I have my bike computer. The rubber is non slip and protects the bars finish. Good luck.
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  32. #432
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    I have 2 Easton Havoc bars with 2 LEVs w/o any problems, I'd use carbon paste though...

  33. #433
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    Two levs each on Easton havon carbon bars with no issue here. I run them close to the odi lock-on but not as part of it.

  34. #434
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    Yes, right onto easton sl bar. Thing is , I can't torque it any more - two ends of clamp are together. Seems like filing a bit off is only answer.
    I seem to recall that there is a small allan grub screw in the remote for helping to get a secure grip of the bars. I will have a look at mine later to confirm.

  35. #435
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    Don't want to steal this thread but... I've been trying to get a part: the DU bushing for a 31.6 supernatural and the local distributors don't have it. I'm in Canada if that counts. I damaged the bushing after it fell off my workbench and spent some time on the floor... the thin bushing with the teflon is scrap now... If anyone has a spare or knows where there is one (for real!), please let me know. Thanks.

  36. #436
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark N View Post
    I seem to recall that there is a small allan grub screw in the remote for helping to get a secure grip of the bars. I will have a look at mine later to confirm.
    Yes, mine has this - but no screw came with post to fit here - that's why I thought I was perhaps missing a piece or something. I did add a bit of tape to thicken the bars a touch, and it's working so far. Other than that, happy with post - looking forward to getting some more time on it.

  37. #437
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    Mine is starting to get a bit of wobble on it. Rotational and back and fourth. Not feeling it while riding it yet, but how much is okay and what's the fix?

  38. #438
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    Got the 27.2 version, installed it... and if I slide the hook with jaws facing out, it pulls on the barrel just enough for the seatpost to never lock in place. The only way I can have it functioning is if I slide the hook with jaws facing in. They are thin enough to get the barrel up high so that the lock engages. Any advice?

    Also, seems like not enough pressure from the factory - the seatpost does not extend all the way up - about 10 mm or so of travel - I have to nudge by hand. Will contact LEV and see what they say.

  39. #439
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    Quote Originally Posted by onzadog View Post
    Mine is starting to get a bit of wobble on it. Rotational and back and fourth. Not feeling it while riding it yet, but how much is okay and what's the fix?
    Mine has a bit more fore/aft wobble than I'd like to see. When it becomes enough to cause a problem I'll send it in to KS.
    Keep the Country country.

  40. #440
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    I bought mine (31.6mm/125mm) about 11 months ago. It stopped working half way through my ride today. I believe the internal Kevlar string snapped.

  41. #441
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    That's bad new. They should be easy to replace if you can find a spare string though.

  42. #442
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    I hope KS is solving the problem of the kevlar string breaking...

  43. #443
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    Quote Originally Posted by paulney View Post
    Will contact LEV and see what they say.
    The company is Kind Shock, Lev is the model...

    Anyway, I'd completely disassemble everything, including the cable from the hook. Put it back together and double check the length of the cut cable, your housing length and routing, make sure the end of the cable doesn't extend out towards the hook (it should be completely flush at the end after you tighten the set screw), make sure the post that the hook attaches to and pulls down is well lubed, etc. Just do it all over and follow the instructions to a T.

    Also make sure you seatpost clamp isn't too tight, the post could be inserted at a level where if the clamp is too tight it could be binding up the shaft on the inside of the post preventing full extension at the end of the stroke. just a thought...
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  44. #444
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    Got a 30.9 150mm LEV today. Replacing an i950R that has dutifully served me for 3 years and sold still functioning pretty much as new. No rides on it yet, but here are some quick observations (many of which I am sure have been already noted in this thread)...

    Out of the box, there is a tiny amount (maybe less than 1mm) of play felt if I wiggle the saddle side to side. There was definitely more on my i950 but it didn't progressively worsen over three years of use. We'll see how the LEV fares.

    Post doesn't extend if I lift the bike up by the saddle when the post is lowered. i950R used to extend a couple of inches if pulled up on by the saddle.

    The 'barbed ferrule' really should be made out of aluminum. Too flimsy and I don't think it'll last very long. Pretty sure a normal (non-barbed) ferrule would work, though. I am not sure about the function of the barbed one and the indentation it fills in the junction box.

    The junction box cover needs to be secured better than it currently is. I have a feeling I am going to lose this one on the trails although it does sit flush and I have to pry it with a fingernail to remove it.

    Tip: If the junction box cover is not sitting flush, you need to pull down on the ferrule, seat the cover THEN reseat the ferrule.

  45. #445
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    And that's what the barbed ferule does, hold the cover on. Without it the cover is just pressed on.
    Keep the Country country.

  46. #446
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    I just received mine for my Ibis HD, I changed from a X Fusion HILO which I loved also, very good dropper but I liked something that avoid going up and down with the cable actuator attached in the same movement. Nothing again the X Fusion after 3 years of hard ridding replacing my Joplin. The only tricky part is the installation of the cable at the end in the post, but nothing difficult with the right tools an patience. Working is nothing less than amazing, up and down solid, you can grab the bike by the post without being fully extended and this will not came out like a syringe (it happens with the Joplin and HILO). The control to match the ODI grips is very nice and great feeling when actuated.
    I just can say that I'm very happy with this post, I hope give an update in the next future after some ridding.

    A closed eyes buy without any fail.

    Cheers.

  47. #447
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    Hi everyone,

    I recently purchased a LEV, but after my ride today I noticed that the seatpost would extend slightly with tension when I picked my bike up by the saddle. If I give it a bit of a wrist flick, the post would extend fully. After letting go of the saddle, the post would always rubber band back to the preset height whether it be all the way down or partially raised.

    Is this normal? I took a small tumble while riding, and did not try and see if the post did this before my ride today. The post still locks perfectly when force is applied downward on the saddle, and it still rises properly. I'm just concerned that something might be broken or loose in the post that could cause further trouble down the line.

  48. #448
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    JackPeri646 check if you have too much tension in the cable, maybe the lock system didn't do it correctly and a small gap is open inside the system because the tension.

  49. #449
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    I just noticed this problem today too. There seems to be slack...so I dunno what the problem is. Might try taking it apart tomorrow.

  50. #450
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    Curious, has anyone tried replacing the inner Kevlar wire themselves after it has snapped?

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