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  1. #301
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    Thanks Hokidachi! Looks like it should be about 125mm plus another 40mm or so, is that correct?
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  2. #302
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    Quote Originally Posted by TwoHeadsBrewing View Post
    I just want to make sure it's going to fit in my frame.

    I'm 5'8" and ride a medium SC Blur LT. Anyone else with a similar size bike using the 125mm LEV? Thanks!
    When your seat is at full roadie/climbing height how far is it from the top of the frame's seat tube to the saddle rails?
    How much lower than that is the lowest you ever put it?
    How much seatpost length can your frame swallow before it hits a stop?
    Keep the Country country.

  3. #303
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    Quote Originally Posted by TwoHeadsBrewing View Post
    Thanks Hokidachi! Looks like it should be about 125mm plus another 40mm or so, is that correct?
    I just measured my setup, here you go:

    KS LEV 125mm. Am I the first to have?-lev2.jpg

  4. #304
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    Perfect, thanks! Looks like I can fit a 125mm in there...although not sure I need it. Most of the time I only drop it 1-2" into a trail riding type position, so 100mm would be sufficient.

    Anyone running the clamp on ODI grips? I've got Rogues right now and was going to do the integrated mount thing.
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  5. #305
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    Quote Originally Posted by TwoHeadsBrewing View Post
    Anyone running the clamp on ODI grips? I've got Rogues right now and was going to do the integrated mount thing.
    I do use the clamp with my ODI Ruffian. It's great!
    I also added a brake noodle to bend the housing/cable. Someone else had this noodle idea, pretty cool and convenient.

    KS LEV 125mm. Am I the first to have?-lev-clamp.jpg

    Hoki

  6. #306
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lelandjt View Post
    When your seat is at full roadie/climbing height how far is it from the top of the frame's seat tube to the saddle rails?
    How much lower than that is the lowest you ever put it?
    How much seatpost length can your frame swallow before it hits a stop?
    1. 7.5" from saddle rails to seatpost collar. 6.5" from saddle clamp to collar.
    2. Maybe 4" down from there on long downhill sections...not slammed all the way to the collar.
    3. It's a continuous tube on my bike, so LOTS of room.

    From the pic Hoki posted, I've got enough to run the 125mm post with maybe 5mm to spare. From collar to bottom of the saddle clamp it measures 165mm, and based on that picture I'd need around 160mm. I'm thinking that is a little too close for comfort, and I'll opt for the 100mm version. Still overkill for most of my riding where I'll put it maybe 2" down.

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  7. #307
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    Just as an update, here's my installation on the KS LEV 100mm. I probably could have gone 125mm, but it would have been really close. I did a good ride today, and 4" is enough travel to get it well out of the way on the downhills.



    Cable routing on the Blur. Clean and out of the way.


    Lever mounted on ODI Ruffian grips...great solution I must say.


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  8. #308
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    Just to check. If my seat is 9in (228mm) fully extended and 5in(127mm) lowered. I would need a 125mm post? Thanks

  9. #309
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    Quote Originally Posted by broccoli rob View Post
    Just to check. If my seat is 9in (228mm) fully extended and 5in(127mm) lowered. I would need a 125mm post? Thanks
    Check the pictures above. If your post is 228mm between the seatpost collar and your saddle clamp, you have enough room for a 150mm. Adding 150mm travel + ~40mm for the inner/outer tubes junction, that's just 190mm.
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  10. #310
    ptd
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    I've been following the 150 choice closely, there was another similar thread here:
    http://forums.mtbr.com/all-mountain/...ed-837468.html

    From what I can tell, critical measurement of the 150 LEV is bottom of LEV seatpost collar to the saddle rails (when seatpost extended fully).
    This should be compared to your existing top of seatpost clamp to saddle rails at pedalling height.

    If the LEV measurement is more than existing measurement, your fine.

    The other thread determined the 125 LEV measurement is 180mm, so adding 25mm for the 150 LEV, the minimum existing top of seatpost clamp to saddle rails should be 205mm.

    The only note was if your seatpost clamp has a larger outside diameter, the cable extension from the LEV cable clamp might foul, so you'd need an extra 20mm or so height..

  11. #311
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    I found dimensions for KS LEV:
    KS LEV 125mm. Am I the first to have?-misure_lev.jpg

  12. #312
    ptd
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    Quote Originally Posted by limonko View Post
    I found dimensions for KS LEV
    legend!

  13. #313
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    Glad i checked this. I guess i do need the 150mm.

  14. #314
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    Re: KS LEV 125mm. Am I the first to have?

    First ride with lev installed and love it. Do you guys clean the post with something special? I use brunox deo on shock and fork, do you think it would be wise to use it on lev as well?

    Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

  15. #315
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    Anybody know what the weight difference is between the 150mm and 125mm?

  16. #316
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    KS Lev 150

    KS Lev 150 for a large Ibis HD
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails KS LEV 125mm. Am I the first to have?-image.jpg  


  17. #317
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    Not the first or the last to pick up a Lev

    I just got my 125mm Lev in the mail yesterday. Took about 10 minutes to set it up at home. I did do the measurements with my old KS i900 (stem to seat tip, and bb to seat rail) so I could install the Lev at approximately the same.

    When I had my i900 setup on my trail bike, that does get used to ride on the shore, I would fully use the 5" drop plus some. To get full extension for the climb, I will sometimes lift the post about 3/4" a then drop to as low as the i900 could go before bottom out in the frame. The extra drop was helpful for the really steep sections to get low and behind the seat. I have setup the Lev so that at full extension it is perfect for climbing. I mounted the cable access to the side so if required I can still drop the post in the seat tube 1/2 - 3/4 of an inch without messing up any of the cable routing.

    Haven't had it out on the trail yet, but this thing feels ultra smooth. I will be reusing the i900 on my freeride bike as I typically don't raise and lower the seat as much as when I am on the trail bike. My i900 is the level mount with no remote. It works, just need to be a little more pro-active in getting the seat dropped and get the hand back on the bars.

    I only hope the Lev works as well and for at least as long as the i900.

  18. #318
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    Re: KS LEV 125mm. Am I the first to have?

    what's better when not in use/transport-fully extended or pushed down?

    Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

  19. #319
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    Quote Originally Posted by rzat View Post
    what's better when not in use/transport-fully extended or pushed down?

    Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2
    Extended. Less pressure and no chance of it getting pulled up and getting air in the oil.
    Keep the Country country.

  20. #320
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    Always extended, no pressure on the whole system.

  21. #321
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    Re: KS LEV 125mm. Am I the first to have?

    That makes sense, thanks a lot.

    Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

  22. #322
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    Just ordered the 125 mm off bike bling for my new ASR-5....First foray into dropper posts and I'm stoked!

  23. #323
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lelandjt View Post
    Extended. Less pressure and no chance of it getting pulled up and getting air in the oil.
    Shipped from KS compressed. So will be stocked compressed.

  24. #324
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark N View Post
    Shipped from KS compressed. So will be stocked compressed.
    They likely ship them compressed to save on packaging. I have my LEV always extended when not in use.

  25. #325
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    Extended, unless on the rooftop carrier (anything to help reduce wind resistance and keep the bugs off the shaft).

    Stored upside down, just like a fork.
    "I wrote a hit play! What have you ever done?!"

    Have Ashtray, Will Travel....

  26. #326
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    Has anyone ever lost the little red cable junction box cover lost mine on a ride today and can you buy them?

  27. #327
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    Call KS, you don't want that area to get gunked up.

    Installed and rode my new one today, it is great. I am super happy with it.

  28. #328
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    Only time I have read about that cover coming off, they had the hook facing the wrong way. Make sure the hook is facing out or it will just happen again. Make sure your new cover has an O-ring on it.
    1990 Schwinn Sierra MOS
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  29. #329
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    I have adjusted the hook to face out but it still popping the red cap off..... Anyone have similar issue?

  30. #330
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    OK fixed! For those that have similar issue with red cap popping out even with the hook faced out.

    You need to check if the steel cable is protruding out of the hole in the hook piece. If so, you need to adjust the steel cable so it sit flat to the hole.

  31. #331
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    I can't remember the exact length, but the instructions give you a measurement (like 21mm?) to cut the housing so you have the correct amount of cable sticking out. That way, the cable doesn't interfere with the hook.

    For any new buyers I highly recommend watching this video on installation prior to doing it yourself. I did, and it made following the directions a whole lot easier. It's probably one of the best and most thorough videos I've seen from a manufacturer.

    <iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/XUXcLchjFV4" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
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  32. #332
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    bad ass

  33. #333
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    Just did a week long AM/DH mtb trip with the 125. This was my first use of the post and it performed flawlessly. Could not have ridden these trails w/out a dropper I dont think. I was using it constantly.

    I noticed that the little plastic barb/ferrule that goes on the end of the cable housing that enters the junction box is wearing extremely fast, though. Looks pretty knackered - not sure why . . .
    '95 M2 StumpJumper FS
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  34. #334
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    Quote Originally Posted by anvil_den View Post
    Never liked the lock ring remote. Simply bad ergonomics needing to remove finger from brakes to activate it. Hybridize my LEV with a remote from an old Joplin instead.

    anvil_den: do you still use the Joplin remote with your KS LEV? If so, how do you like it so far? I am thinking of switching as well to the Joplin remote as I don't like the KS remote that much.

  35. #335
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    I installed my 150mm LEV last week, so have three rides on it now. It went on easily and has been flawless so far. The remote is perfect, it could not be designed better I don't think. I set it on the left side right above the shifter and it becomes second nature there very quickly. The post operates perfectly so far every single time, and the 150mm of travel is nice and I am glad I got that version. The action really is smooth up and down, and the set up is very clean with the non moving cable. I think the only hit on it is that there is some slight movement with the saddle. There is no way you could feel it riding, so I don't really know that it is a true downside, but it is there. I have heard that with every dropper out there, so maybe it is just the nature of the beast. All in all I am very happy so far with the post and it definitely makes downhills faster and more fun.

  36. #336
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    Originally Posted by anvil_den
    "Never liked the lock ring remote. Simply bad ergonomics needing to remove finger from brakes to activate it. Hybridize my LEV with a remote from an old Joplin instead."

    Why would anyone have to remove their finger from the brake if it's designed to be used with the thumb...?
    "I wrote a hit play! What have you ever done?!"

    Have Ashtray, Will Travel....

  37. #337
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    Bummer, my Lev 125 died today. After 9 months of trouble free use it suddenly stopped working. Trigger & external cable are functioning fine but post will not move. Appears internal cable broke. Bummed because I finally got my seat position adjusted perfectly, uggh.

  38. #338
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    @hrdude - Sucks! Be sure to post back when you figure out what happened, and how KS has responded. I just got my KS a couple months ago, and am interested to hear how their customer service and warranty process is.
    "Got everything you need?"

  39. #339
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    After removing & inspecting, the internal cable wore out and broke. The internal cable is made from kevlar or some type of fiber string material. Friction from moving the post up and down wore through the fibers until it broke. Unless they've recently changed the cable material it looks like this could be a regular yearly issue. Other than this, it has been a great dropper post.
    KS was quick to provide an RMA number & I've shipped the post back for warranty repair.

  40. #340
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    Quote Originally Posted by hrdude View Post
    After removing & inspecting, the internal cable wore out and broke. The internal cable is made from kevlar or some type of fiber string material. Friction from moving the post up and down wore through the fibers until it broke. Unless they've recently changed the cable material it looks like this could be a regular yearly issue. Other than this, it has been a great dropper post.
    KS was quick to provide an RMA number & I've shipped the post back for warranty repair.
    When installing mine that was what I was thinking...how long is that internal cable going to last. Awesome post!, but that cable could be a flaw.

  41. #341
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    Reminds me a little bit of how the older cars used to have a timing belt that needed to be serviced and finally somebody got the bright idea to use a chain instead of a belt which made the 60,000 mile timing belt change a thing of the past. When will KS use a different material for their internal cable that will eliminate this type of problem? I also wonder if extreme cold weather would make the kevlar wear faster?
    1990 Schwinn Sierra MOS
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  42. #342
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    I noticed he didn't install the barrel adjuster in the video, is it necessary?

  43. #343
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    Quote Originally Posted by ehigh View Post
    I noticed he didn't install the barrel adjuster in the video, is it necessary?
    You don't need the barrel adjuster, but cables do stretch over time. That's why it's a good idea to install it, so you can tighten it up easily when the cable stretches out.
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  44. #344
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    Quote Originally Posted by ehigh View Post
    I noticed he didn't install the barrel adjuster in the video, is it necessary?
    There's another video that's a couple of minutes longer that includes the adjuster video installation (@9:20) but is otherwise the same: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XUXcLchjFV4. The guy says it's optional, but I found it useful.

  45. #345
    AFI
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    Quote Originally Posted by ehigh View Post
    I noticed he didn't install the barrel adjuster in the video, is it necessary?
    I didn't install one and haven't had any issues. Going on about 6 months now. I did my best to attach at tightly as possible.

  46. #346
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    Quote Originally Posted by AFI View Post
    I didn't install one and haven't had any issues. Going on about 6 months now. I did my best to attach at tightly as possible.
    I am glad I installed mine. It gives you some on-the-fly adjustment for the lever engagement point and to compensate for a little bit of cable stretch. Plus, it means less chance of damaging that small, fragile aluminum hook - I am most worried about this part of the post and am considering trying to get a spare...

  47. #347
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    Does anyone know if the diameter of the inner post of the LEV and reverb is the same? I'm trying to determine if the travel limiter clamp from the reverb will fit on the LEV...

  48. #348
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    KS LEV 125mm. Am I the first to have?

    Does anyone else have a problem with having to unweight their seat, then hit the remote, then weight it again to get the post to go down?

    I just installed my 125 and went for a ride and it wouldn't go down unless I did a little bum hop. That can't be normal...

  49. #349
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    KS LEV 125mm. Am I the first to have?

    Fixed. Just needed to take some slack out with the adjuster barrel. Flipped the hook around too. Success.

  50. #350
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ronstar View Post
    Has anyone ever lost the little red cable junction box cover lost mine on a ride today and can you buy them?
    I almost lost mine. The little o-ring tore, creating a loose fit and the cover was hanging out of the box.

    I don't like the box/cover/o-ring design, at all. Way too cutesie/fussy for a part that potentially gets blasted by dirt, rocks, water and debris.

    Seems like a small allen screw (or 2) to hold the cover on would have been tidy and secure. The box/cover O-ring should sit captive in a ridge inside the box, like a gasket, completely eliminating the possibility of pinching/twisting the o-ring during removal/replacement of the cover.

    The plastic barbed ferule that goes into the box should be made of aluminum - mine has disintegrated and cracked in short order . . .

    My post still functions beautifully, however . . .
    '95 M2 StumpJumper FS
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