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  1. #401
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    I installed a 125mm Lev on my Tallboy this weekend. No problem with the installation.

    On my first ride I noticed the post dropped fine but was reluctant to rise. If I had it dropped for a few seconds it might rise up on its own. But if I left it down for any amount of time, the post would not rise up unless I "tapped" it with my bottom. Then it would come right up. Almost like it was getting stuck on something.

    I tried different cable tensions (with the inline adjuster) and that made no difference. I did not try different air pressures; I'm using what it came with.

    I've emailed Kindshock this weekend but haven't heard back from them. I was wondering if anyone here has experienced this or knows of a solution?

  2. #402
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    Quote Originally Posted by LeonD View Post
    I've emailed Kindshock this weekend but haven't heard back from them. I was wondering if anyone here has experienced this or knows of a solution?
    May be your seatpost coller is too tight.

  3. #403
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    Didn't think of that but it makes sense. I used the torque value they recommended but could try a little easier. Just don't want the post to slip obviously.

    Thanks.

  4. #404
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    Quote Originally Posted by LeonD View Post
    Didn't think of that but it makes sense. I used the torque value they recommended but could try a little easier. Just don't want the post to slip obviously.

    Thanks.
    Got the same problem so worth a try! Iput a little of friction paste.

  5. #405
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    Yeah, try friction paste and less torque...
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  6. #406
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    For one thing the seals need to break in and are sticky at first. Also the pressure range is 150-250psi. Mine came with about 180 in it. More air will make it pop up quicker and not stick but takes more force to push down. The only hitch is you need to remove the saddle to adjust this. I put 160 in and lile how easily the post pushes down but also have it hessitate some coming up. I've finally found my perfect seat position so I'm hesitant to pull it off and up the pressure. I'm hoping the sticking goes away in a couple more rides.
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  7. #407
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    So I re torqued the post to 6NM instead of 7NM. Riding up and down the driveway, it seemed better.

    What's odd is that in the work stand, it always comes up (even before I loosened the bolt). It's not till I'm really riding the bike that the post stays down. I'll take it in the woods after work.

    Not sure if this will help coming up or not but I might try putting more air in the post. It feels like it's compressing too quickly when I have it go down.

    Thanks for all the help.

  8. #408
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    Quote Originally Posted by LeonD View Post
    Not sure if this will help coming up or not but I might try putting more air in the post. It feels like it's compressing too quickly when I have it go down.
    Adding more air will fix both those problems. Before putting my seat on I felt the post with 150 & 250psi (I chose 160 but now think I should have done 180). Big difference in the pressure required to push it down and how quickly it comes up. You're looking for enough force to overcome the stiction holding it down and enough resistance when lowering to easily find the height you want. What you don't want is so much resistance when lowering that you're having to push the seat down with your ass while being hit with bumps.
    Keep the Country country.

  9. #409
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    So I torqued the seat binder to 6NM (instead of 7NM) and put in 220 psi of air (up from 150 psi) and went out for a ride last night.

    For the first 30 minutes, the post worked fine. After that, it started happening again. If I rode with the post dropped for any length of time, it would not rise when I hit the lever. I would have to tap it to come back up.

    If I only drop the post for a few seconds, it'll come back up. The problem is when the post is dropped and ridden that way.

    I emailed KindShock either Fri or Sat and haven't heard back from them. I would think a company would be responsive to someone buying $400 seatposts. Hopefully they'll stand behind their product.

  10. #410
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    I have the 27.2x100 and it worked for a month. Now, The post does not stay down when pushing it halfway (2-3 inches). It slowly goes back up.

    When the post is all the way down then it stays down. Sent it back to KS

    (BTW, I know the hook needs to be facing out when hooking it to the barrel, however is there a trick on how to slide the hook easily to the barrel ?)
    It's a chronic addiction

  11. #411
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    I pulled the barrel out a little and was able to slide the hook behind it on the first try.

  12. #412
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    Quote Originally Posted by LeonD View Post
    I pulled the barrel out a little and was able to slide the hook behind it on the first try.
    ^This. Use needle-nose pliers to grab the barrel and pull it down and out so the hook can easily be clipped behind it.
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  13. #413
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    KS Lev install Wtf ?

    How do I get the post to go up for install ? I watched the video and it doesn't mention how to do it. I took the red cover off and pulled down on the spot where the remote spring hooks up and nothing happened. Am I a moron? Just dropped good coin on this thing. Any help would be greatly appreciated

  14. #414
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    Quote Originally Posted by GoBuffs View Post
    How do I get the post to go up for install ? I watched the video and it doesn't mention how to do it. I took the red cover off and pulled down on the spot where the remote spring hooks up and nothing happened. Am I a moron? Just dropped good coin on this thing. Any help would be greatly appreciated
    Did you try using needle nose pliers to grab the barrel and pull it down?
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  15. #415
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lelandjt View Post
    Did you try using needle nose pliers to grab the barrel and pull it down?
    I used a pen to push it down. I cycled it 3 or 4 times and nothing

  16. #416
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    The locking mechanism will be released when the barrel and its string are pulled about halfway down. At that point air pressure is pushing the post up and stiction is trying to hold it in place. New posts are sometimes sticky and mine came with only 170ish PSI so it needed a tug to come up the first time. It resisted coming up a couple times during my first couple rides as well until the bushings and seals broke it.
    Keep the Country country.

  17. #417
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    My first LEV was fine for about a year or so until the Kevlar wire broke. Sent the post for a warranty repair job and since I knew it'd take awhile I bought another LEV.

    Well, this Fu**** showed similar symptoms like described above. The post doesn't lock down/up. This time the post was good for only a couple of weeks. Great.

  18. #418
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    I just stuck the hook on the cable and used that to pull down the barrel. It took a couple of tugs on the seat to bring it up.

  19. #419
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    Quote Originally Posted by T_E View Post
    I have the 27.2x100 and it worked for a month. Now, The post does not stay down when pushing it halfway (2-3 inches). It slowly goes back up.

    When the post is all the way down then it stays down. Sent it back to KS

    (BTW, I know the hook needs to be facing out when hooking it to the barrel, however is there a trick on how to slide the hook easily to the barrel ?)
    Update:

    The post is still sitting @ KS USA one week to the day after they received it. Apparently, they are slowly finding issues with the 27.2. I was told they have to wait for the parts and tools coming from Taiwan.

    One of the issues is the cap valve not maintaining enough psi since that size, 27.2 that is, psi is set up in the production facility. I ask for replacement but was told they only do repair here in the US. Oh well... Just an update
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  20. #420
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    wow, seems like mucho problemo. Hope KS fix the problem soon.

  21. #421
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    Just out of curiosity - how do you mount your bikes in a repair stands with Lev ? There is nothing in the manual about it, everybody seems to think it's not recommended but bike on a stand is much less load on the post than actual riding. What do you do ?

  22. #422
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    Here is a cut and paste from an email exchange with KS.


    -----Original Message-----
    From: scott.g
    Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2013 11:48 AM
    To: ron@kssuspension.com
    Subject: Contact message from Scott

    Hi purchased and installed a LEV recently and I am very happy with it. Thanks for having the service videos available, the serviceability was one of the factors that convinced me to choose the LEV.

    I have two questions:

    My repair stand clamp fits on the sliding mast between the seat and the collar. Assuming I keep everything clean and protected is there any reason I shouldn't clamp the upper post section in the stand?

    I store my bikes suspended from their saddles, hooked over a closet rod which is hanging from the ceiling. Is this ok for the LEV? The bike is a little bit under 27 lbs.

    I left a phone message yesterday and did receive a call back from Ron but I missed the call and shortly there after my phone bricked.

    Thanks-
    Scott


    REPLY:


    Should be fine

    Respectfully,

    Ron Easton
    KS USA
    26741 Portola Pkwy 1E658
    Foothill Ranch CA 92610

  23. #423
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    Is Ron the only person who works for KS-USA?

    For the work stand, I still use a QR, unhook the cable and raise the post out of the frame to clamp the post slider rather than stanchion.

    I set the angle so the post is purely in tension, no bending moment so I don't worry too much about the minimum insertion mark.

  24. #424
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    Quote Originally Posted by k_z View Post
    Just out of curiosity - how do you mount your bikes in a repair stands with Lev ? There is nothing in the manual about it, everybody seems to think it's not recommended but bike on a stand is much less load on the post than actual riding. What do you do ?
    I use this:
    KS LEV 125mm. Am I the first to have?-yatta2-1.jpg

    KS LEV 125mm. Am I the first to have?-lev.jpg

  25. #425
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    I've seen a mechanic clamp to the rear end of the seat's rails.

    I almost never use my stand, except for major bike building. I'm so used to flipping the bike over onto the bars and seat to do maintenance, or just leaned against a wall or tree.

  26. #426
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    In the midst of installing mine. Anybody have problems with remote lever? Fully torqued mine still slips (Easton bar). I guess I'll have to file it down a bit. But a bit frustrating on such an expensive item. Also, is that some sort of string that pulls the barrel on post down? Durability seems pretty good from what I read, but have to admit that worries me. Hope I don't regret not waiting for the Thomson...

  27. #427
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    Quote Originally Posted by chunkylover53 View Post
    In the midst of installing mine. Anybody have problems with remote lever? Fully torqued mine still slips (Easton bar). I guess I'll have to file it down a bit. But a bit frustrating on such an expensive item. Also, is that some sort of string that pulls the barrel on post down? Durability seems pretty good from what I read, but have to admit that worries me. Hope I don't regret not waiting for the Thomson...
    No problems here, although I'm using mine on a ODI grip. Are you just clamping it to the bars? I have those same Easton bars, and maybe the smooth finish is causing it to slip more than a shot peened or powder coated handlebar would.

    I wouldn't be afraid to torque that clamp down a bit more. Alternately you could use some carbon seatpost paste, which adds some grit in between the two surfaces.
    "Got everything you need?"

  28. #428
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    Yes, right onto easton sl bar. Thing is , I can't torque it any more - two ends of clamp are together. Seems like filing a bit off is only answer.

  29. #429
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    That's pretty strange. Maybe try some sandpaper to inside of the clamp to rough up the surface a bit?
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  30. #430
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    One wrap of tape of your choice (I used Gorilla). It will tighten down on the bars nicely.

    Quote Originally Posted by chunkylover53 View Post
    In the midst of installing mine. Anybody have problems with remote lever? Fully torqued mine still slips (Easton bar). I guess I'll have to file it down a bit. But a bit frustrating on such an expensive item. Also, is that some sort of string that pulls the barrel on post down? Durability seems pretty good from what I read, but have to admit that worries me. Hope I don't regret not waiting for the Thomson...

  31. #431
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    Those must be some thin bars because I have mine on Easton Haven (alum) bars and the remote tightened down easily. I like the tape idea. Another you might try is if you have an old inner tube. I cut a piece of old inner tube and wrapped it around my bars in the spot where I have my bike computer. The rubber is non slip and protects the bars finish. Good luck.
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  32. #432
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    I have 2 Easton Havoc bars with 2 LEVs w/o any problems, I'd use carbon paste though...

  33. #433
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    Two levs each on Easton havon carbon bars with no issue here. I run them close to the odi lock-on but not as part of it.

  34. #434
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    Yes, right onto easton sl bar. Thing is , I can't torque it any more - two ends of clamp are together. Seems like filing a bit off is only answer.
    I seem to recall that there is a small allan grub screw in the remote for helping to get a secure grip of the bars. I will have a look at mine later to confirm.

  35. #435
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    Don't want to steal this thread but... I've been trying to get a part: the DU bushing for a 31.6 supernatural and the local distributors don't have it. I'm in Canada if that counts. I damaged the bushing after it fell off my workbench and spent some time on the floor... the thin bushing with the teflon is scrap now... If anyone has a spare or knows where there is one (for real!), please let me know. Thanks.

  36. #436
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark N View Post
    I seem to recall that there is a small allan grub screw in the remote for helping to get a secure grip of the bars. I will have a look at mine later to confirm.
    Yes, mine has this - but no screw came with post to fit here - that's why I thought I was perhaps missing a piece or something. I did add a bit of tape to thicken the bars a touch, and it's working so far. Other than that, happy with post - looking forward to getting some more time on it.

  37. #437
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    Mine is starting to get a bit of wobble on it. Rotational and back and fourth. Not feeling it while riding it yet, but how much is okay and what's the fix?

  38. #438
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    Got the 27.2 version, installed it... and if I slide the hook with jaws facing out, it pulls on the barrel just enough for the seatpost to never lock in place. The only way I can have it functioning is if I slide the hook with jaws facing in. They are thin enough to get the barrel up high so that the lock engages. Any advice?

    Also, seems like not enough pressure from the factory - the seatpost does not extend all the way up - about 10 mm or so of travel - I have to nudge by hand. Will contact LEV and see what they say.

  39. #439
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    Quote Originally Posted by onzadog View Post
    Mine is starting to get a bit of wobble on it. Rotational and back and fourth. Not feeling it while riding it yet, but how much is okay and what's the fix?
    Mine has a bit more fore/aft wobble than I'd like to see. When it becomes enough to cause a problem I'll send it in to KS.
    Keep the Country country.

  40. #440
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    I bought mine (31.6mm/125mm) about 11 months ago. It stopped working half way through my ride today. I believe the internal Kevlar string snapped.

  41. #441
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    That's bad new. They should be easy to replace if you can find a spare string though.

  42. #442
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    I hope KS is solving the problem of the kevlar string breaking...

  43. #443
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    Quote Originally Posted by paulney View Post
    Will contact LEV and see what they say.
    The company is Kind Shock, Lev is the model...

    Anyway, I'd completely disassemble everything, including the cable from the hook. Put it back together and double check the length of the cut cable, your housing length and routing, make sure the end of the cable doesn't extend out towards the hook (it should be completely flush at the end after you tighten the set screw), make sure the post that the hook attaches to and pulls down is well lubed, etc. Just do it all over and follow the instructions to a T.

    Also make sure you seatpost clamp isn't too tight, the post could be inserted at a level where if the clamp is too tight it could be binding up the shaft on the inside of the post preventing full extension at the end of the stroke. just a thought...
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  44. #444
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    Got a 30.9 150mm LEV today. Replacing an i950R that has dutifully served me for 3 years and sold still functioning pretty much as new. No rides on it yet, but here are some quick observations (many of which I am sure have been already noted in this thread)...

    Out of the box, there is a tiny amount (maybe less than 1mm) of play felt if I wiggle the saddle side to side. There was definitely more on my i950 but it didn't progressively worsen over three years of use. We'll see how the LEV fares.

    Post doesn't extend if I lift the bike up by the saddle when the post is lowered. i950R used to extend a couple of inches if pulled up on by the saddle.

    The 'barbed ferrule' really should be made out of aluminum. Too flimsy and I don't think it'll last very long. Pretty sure a normal (non-barbed) ferrule would work, though. I am not sure about the function of the barbed one and the indentation it fills in the junction box.

    The junction box cover needs to be secured better than it currently is. I have a feeling I am going to lose this one on the trails although it does sit flush and I have to pry it with a fingernail to remove it.

    Tip: If the junction box cover is not sitting flush, you need to pull down on the ferrule, seat the cover THEN reseat the ferrule.

  45. #445
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    And that's what the barbed ferule does, hold the cover on. Without it the cover is just pressed on.
    Keep the Country country.

  46. #446
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    I just received mine for my Ibis HD, I changed from a X Fusion HILO which I loved also, very good dropper but I liked something that avoid going up and down with the cable actuator attached in the same movement. Nothing again the X Fusion after 3 years of hard ridding replacing my Joplin. The only tricky part is the installation of the cable at the end in the post, but nothing difficult with the right tools an patience. Working is nothing less than amazing, up and down solid, you can grab the bike by the post without being fully extended and this will not came out like a syringe (it happens with the Joplin and HILO). The control to match the ODI grips is very nice and great feeling when actuated.
    I just can say that I'm very happy with this post, I hope give an update in the next future after some ridding.

    A closed eyes buy without any fail.

    Cheers.

  47. #447
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    Hi everyone,

    I recently purchased a LEV, but after my ride today I noticed that the seatpost would extend slightly with tension when I picked my bike up by the saddle. If I give it a bit of a wrist flick, the post would extend fully. After letting go of the saddle, the post would always rubber band back to the preset height whether it be all the way down or partially raised.

    Is this normal? I took a small tumble while riding, and did not try and see if the post did this before my ride today. The post still locks perfectly when force is applied downward on the saddle, and it still rises properly. I'm just concerned that something might be broken or loose in the post that could cause further trouble down the line.

  48. #448
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    JackPeri646 check if you have too much tension in the cable, maybe the lock system didn't do it correctly and a small gap is open inside the system because the tension.

  49. #449
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    I just noticed this problem today too. There seems to be slack...so I dunno what the problem is. Might try taking it apart tomorrow.

  50. #450
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    Curious, has anyone tried replacing the inner Kevlar wire themselves after it has snapped?

  51. #451
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    I've adusted and trimmed one which was pretty straight forward but I've not replaced one.

    There must be some generic cord out there that would work. I can't imagine it's unique to ks.

  52. #452
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    I've actually done it but while trying to get to the kevar wire, found it quite hard to remove the actuator end assembly without the inner shaft rotating. I've tried to use a strap wrench, but the shaft is too smooth, or my strap wrench just sucks, any suggestions on something that would hold the shaft tight enough so that i can easily remove that end assembly? Or where i can get a strap wrench like the one Rick uses in the tutorial videos? many thanks!

  53. #453
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    I use a cheap plastic strap wrench but l clean the post and strap with ipa first and wrap the strap down the post as far as I can before crossing back to lock on itself. That way, I get as much surface contact as possible.

  54. #454
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    Quote Originally Posted by onzadog View Post
    I use a cheap plastic strap wrench but l clean the post and strap with ipa first and wrap the strap down the post as far as I can before crossing back to lock on itself. That way, I get as much surface contact as possible.
    Thanks for the tip i'll give it a try

  55. #455
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    I am having a problem with my LEV Integra sticking the last 15-20mm or so at the top.. Anybody heard of this problem or know of a solution?

  56. #456
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    Upset

    Quote Originally Posted by hmorsi View Post
    The junction box cover needs to be secured better than it currently is. I have a feeling I am going to lose this one on the trails although it does sit flush and I have to pry it with a fingernail to remove it.
    Ziptie your red lev cover, I lost mine in my local trail.
    My distributor in my area is charging US$20 for that little red cap!@$/^&(**$#$

  57. #457
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    Also be careful with that little o-ring. It's not the most durable.

  58. #458
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    Anyone now where can I order the inner kevlar cable for KS LEV 250?

    The inner kevlar cable of my LEV 150 post was broken today and I cannot find where to order a replacement. Please help.

  59. #459
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    Quote Originally Posted by anavot View Post
    The inner kevlar cable of my LEV 150 post was broken today and I cannot find where to order a replacement. Please help.
    Straight from KS is the only possible option. Or they might say you have to send it back.
    Keep the Country country.

  60. #460
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    how much side to side play on ks lev?

    Just installed mine this weekend and I noticed side to side play of about 1/4 inch when moving the seat side to side, I was told some play is normal but is 1/4 inch from the tip of the saddle side to side movement normal?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails KS LEV 125mm. Am I the first to have?-seatpost.jpg  


  61. #461
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    It seems excessive for me, mine has only a couple of millimeters at most after months of (ab)use.

  62. #462
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    Quote Originally Posted by justoracle View Post
    Just installed mine this weekend and I noticed side to side play of about 1/4 inch when moving the seat side to side, I was told some play is normal but is 1/4 inch from the tip of the saddle side to side movement normal?
    Is that a measured quarter inch or and estimated quarter inch...? One mans 1/4" is another mans 2-3mm...

    I'd say, yes, normal. You don't notice it when you're sitting down. Will have zero affect on performance.
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  63. #463
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    Quote Originally Posted by anavot View Post
    The inner kevlar cable of my LEV 150 post was broken today and I cannot find where to order a replacement. Please help.
    If you are staying in the state, you can send it back to KS.
    My buddy sent his i950 back to distributor in singapore, is already 6 weeks still no news yet! Our local distributor sucks!

  64. #464
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    No side to side play on either of my LEV's after a year on each. That sounds excessive if it is truly a quarter inch.
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    I contacted KS and they said to send it to them for repair. I bought it 6 days ago from Jenson USA (online order)... I could just return it for a full refund, but I may just go through KS to make sure when I get it back it's upgraded/fixed with no play. If I were to exchange it through jenson USA I may get one that behaves the same way ??
    As some of you mentioned it probably doesn't affect functionality but worried that it would get worse with use, shelled out $350 for it and it sucks to get something less than perfect when new even if it doesn't affect functionality at least not now.

  66. #466
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    Quote Originally Posted by justoracle View Post
    I contacted KS and they said to send it to them for repair. I bought it 6 days ago from Jenson USA (online order)... I could just return it for a full refund, but I may just go through KS to make sure when I get it back it's upgraded/fixed with no play. If I were to exchange it through jenson USA I may get one that behaves the same way ??
    As some of you mentioned it probably doesn't affect functionality but worried that it would get worse with use, shelled out $350 for it and it sucks to get something less than perfect when new even if it doesn't affect functionality at least not now.

    Just exchange it... Fewer people experience this problem than more. If you get another bad one, then run straight out and buy a lottery ticket.
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  67. #467
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    Took the bike in for a tune-up yesterday and had the mechanic look at the dropper and it looks like the shaft moves maybe 1mm side to side but the rest of the play comes from the seat clamp. I took the seat off along with the clamp, looked it over, re-install it but it had the same amount of play as before, sending it to KS today.
    I like the dropper, if I send it for an exchange to Jenson USA I'd have to take the cable off the bike, as you know that's the most tedious part of the installation, I'll send just the post to KS so they can fix it and hopefully have a good working dropper in a week or so.

  68. #468
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    New KS trigger for single ring users....looks nice!!KS LEV 125mm. Am I the first to have?-imageuploadedbytapatalk1380210957.059844.jpg

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    The side-to-side play on my LEV continues... this is what I've done so far, sent the seatpost to KC for repair, they got it on a friday and I received back the next friday, I'm CA and foothills ranch CA is about 2 hours away.

    Installed it and what do you know... it has the same DAMN side to side play! Here's a video, what should I do? I'm thinking of just returning it to jensonUSA for a refund and stick to my regular non-drop post... if I exchange it, what are the odds I'll have the same problem ?

    ks lev shock - side to side play - YouTube

  70. #470
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    That is definitely not right, take it to Jenson's and exchange it for a new one. If you don't want to take the cables off the bike just see if they will let you leave the new cables and accessories in the box and give you only the seatpost on the exchange...worth a shot. But even if you have to trim and install new cables, it worth it not to have a lemon.

    m2c

  71. #471
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    Called jenson-usa and they're sending me a new one, they couldn't just send me the seatpost without the cable (since I'm planning to keep the original cable that's already installed on my bike), so I'll get a complete package but I'll just send the unused cable along with the broken seatpost. Keeping my fingers crossed the new one doesn't have the same crap play as the original one.

  72. #472
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    Quote Originally Posted by justoracle View Post
    The side-to-side play on my LEV continues... this is what I've done so far, sent the seatpost to KC for repair, they got it on a friday and I received back the next friday, I'm CA and foothills ranch CA is about 2 hours away.

    Installed it and what do you know... it has the same DAMN side to side play! Here's a video, what should I do? I'm thinking of just returning it to jensonUSA for a refund and stick to my regular non-drop post... if I exchange it, what are the odds I'll have the same problem ?

    ks lev shock - side to side play - YouTube
    Both mine had a bit of side to side play, one slightly worse than the other. But neither were anywhere near that bad...
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  73. #473
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    I have two LEV's and one is totally stiff, and the other is almost the same. By that I mean, I feel something if I try to move it but you can't even see it actually move. I didn't get either from Jenson. I like Jenson but their price was too high and they still had pictures up of the first generation LEV. I got one from PricePoint and the other from BikeBling. The one from BikeBling with a coupon code was the cheapest (less than $300) and the newest generation LEV. That is the really stiff post. The one from PricePoint was a second generation LEV.

    If you get another bad one, I'd get my money back and try BikeBling. For your trouble you could end up saving a lot of dough. Good luck.
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  74. #474
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    Holly shit!

    got the new one from jenson USA and it has the same side to side play if not even worse! right out of the box!! I'm wondering if this is a problem with the 27.2 posts? Anyone else on here with a 27.2 100mm post that could verify how much side to side play you have? maybe I'm being over critical, apparently some side to side play is normal but it just doesn't seem right, appreciate anyone who could chime in.

  75. #475
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    KS wanted me to try with a different seat to see if it was the seat that was causing the horizontal play, it pretty much behaved the same, here is the video with a different seat, it's a road bike seat cause that's all I had to test with


  76. #476
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    Just installed first dropper, KS LEV, lever on right side of handlebars. 1st ride, shifted a lot by accident, instead of operating KS lever. Does this get better as you become used to it? It was kinda frustrating/funny.

  77. #477
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    I put mine on the left because you don't shift the front rings nearly as much as you shift the back cassette. You are going to to want to shift and move the seat at the same time eventually. This way there is less chance of that happening and it will become second nature using your left hand after awhile. I also put my lever a little higher than I see most install it because then I don't accidentally hit it during real technical stuff.
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  78. #478
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    That's what I was thinking, but most people I see keep it on right. Left does make sense to me too. More Opinions?

  79. #479
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    On the left, I run a single chain ring now, but before that i was on the left for the same reasons JPBakerIII stated.

  80. #480
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    Keep the feedback coming, thanks

  81. #481
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    on the left too, but I run a XX1 so no shifter on the left...

  82. #482
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    I bought a KS lev 125 in May and as of the middle of Oct. it has become "squishy" in the raised position. It compresses a couple of inches. Needless to say it is a bummer and un-ridable. I have had no problems with it other than some side-side play (but that did not bother me too much).

    Any others out there that have experienced this problem? Any fixes? Thanks,

  83. #483
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    Sounds like it needs a bleed. I think someone wrote a how to guide somewhere, or send it back for a service.

  84. #484
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    After fabricating some tools you can rebuild or bleed these but it's more hassle than it's worth. I could see it if you need the post for a race in less than 2 weeks and can't risk sending it back but when working on stuff that's not ment to be servicable there's always the chance something could go wrong and you gotta send it back anyway. With most posts the best advice is send it in.
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  85. #485
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    I got my 150mm Lev yesterday, installed it and rode it around the back yard. That was enough to convince me to order a 34.9/125mm post for the Liteville as well.

    Straight away it felt better than the old CB Joplin and Specialized Blacklite.

  86. #486
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    Quote Originally Posted by fishguy View Post
    I bought a KS lev 125 in May and as of the middle of Oct. it has become "squishy" in the raised position. It compresses a couple of inches. Needless to say it is a bummer and un-ridable. I have had no problems with it other than some side-side play (but that did not bother me too much).

    Any others out there that have experienced this problem? Any fixes? Thanks,
    Dude, I have the exact same issue, any fix? Going to check the pressure and see if that makes any difference.
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  87. #487
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    Pressure won't fix it. The reason it's soft and not holding is because there's air at the top of the "damper" rather than oil. It needs a bleed, be it at home or a factory service. The air needs to come out of that particular part and be replaced with oil.

  88. #488
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    Quote Originally Posted by onzadog View Post
    Pressure won't fix it. The reason it's soft and not holding is because there's air at the top of the "damper" rather than oil. It needs a bleed, be it at home or a factory service. The air needs to come out of that particular part and be replaced with oil.
    Thanks. I will get a RA number and send it to KS. I assume it is a pain to bleed?
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  89. #489
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    Can the lev be torn down, cleaned and reassemble by the average home mechanic?

  90. #490
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    Hey team.

    I've had a couple of LEVs in different frames, all of which ave had some degree of rotational movement at the saddle, my most recent one also has a little fore and aft movement, neither are noticeable when riding though.

    What are others experiencing in this department?

    Cheers, Grant.

  91. #491
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vespasianus View Post
    Dude, I have the exact same issue, any fix? Going to check the pressure and see if that makes any difference.
    Pull it out of the frame and check to bottom part is screwed on (the bit that covers the string mechanism) , mine came loose and thats what was giving me a 10-20 mm of up and down play at the top of the stroke.

  92. #492
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    Is storing the bike upside down with the LEV not recommended? Does it matter with the Integra? Also, will any grease be fine to use on the stanchions? I've read about slick honey being recommended before, but I don't see anything specific in the manual. What I have right now is white lightning crystal grease. Appreciate the feedback.

  93. #493
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    Hey people, i've just noticed when my LEV is half way up/down and i lift my bike from the saddle it moves up about a cm or 2 and when i put my bike back down it returns to the original position, is that normal, or is it not suppose to move at all?

  94. #494
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    It's abad idea to pick the bike up by the saddle when it's lowered. You could suck air into the hydraulics.
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  95. #495
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lelandjt View Post
    It's abad idea to pick the bike up by the saddle when it's lowered. You could suck air into the hydraulics.
    How should it be possible? hasn't the lev a sealed hydraulic cartridge? where should the air be sucked from by the hydraulics?

  96. #496
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    I'm no expert but from the way it doesn't compress when sat on it, but does rise when lifted by the saddle, it makes me think there's some sort of washer over a piston type assemble. When sat on it, you're forcing the washer over the ports in the piston, when you lift by the saddle, the force of the oil is bending the washer away from the piston (or some similar arrangement).

    I can see the theory that if you pull the saddle up, you create a vacuum which could possibly suck air past the seals. However, it's not a very fast movement and I think the air spring and oil damper/lockout are separate chambers, so inside the damper, would be a fixed volume of oil, it won't compress above the piston so therefore, shouldn't create a vacuum below the piston.

    Happy to be proved wrong though, it's all just theory, I've not had the damper apart.

  97. #497
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    Exactly. You create a vacuum and can suck air from the atmosphere in past the seal. Sure some posts claim you can pull on them in a dropped position but I've seen it cause the need for a rebuild so it's just not worth doing with any post that uses a hydraulic system.
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  98. #498
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    anyone know if the LEV Integra utilizes the kevlar cable from the "regular" LEV? Seems like the weak spot in this design and I'm tired of getting it fixed.... would consider upgrading to the Integra if it does away with this feature....
    continuous growth is the strategy of a cancer cell.

  99. #499
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    Quote Originally Posted by onzadog View Post
    I've adusted and trimmed one which was pretty straight forward but I've not replaced one.

    There must be some generic cord out there that would work. I can't imagine it's unique to ks.
    Try thin braided fishing lines... then take 3 strands and braid them like pigtails loosely (cos if too tight-- it gets stretchy and that would not be desirable). You'll want to keep everything as non-stretch as possible.

  100. #500
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    Braid loose? It seems that would be stretchy? Why not braid tight?

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