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  1. #551
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    Quote Originally Posted by phatfreeheeler View Post
    So, does it look like this one in the bottom right, shown at the Taipei bike show?


    When I called, they said you also needed a different lever (which is part of the service) since the cable goes in the opposite direction with cast end at the lever. Did you get this new lever too, or is it still the ODI lock-on style?
    That is exactly what the bottom looks like and they give you a new noodle cable and housing and the trigger. I had bought the carbon trigger so it is odi lock on ready. You have to swap the trigger and the cut end actually connects to the bottom of

  2. #552
    MattSavage
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    I wonder if all new Integra's are shipping with this update...?
    "I wrote a hit play! What have you ever done?!"

    Have Ashtray, Will Travel....

  3. #553
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    Not sure on the date of the change, but mine which came from QBP last week still had the old mech. Of course I heard a rumor they got a fresh shipment this week. Could mean nothing though.

    Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

  4. #554
    MattSavage
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    Aight, I've searched and searched... But I can't find dimensions for the Lev Integra. Anyone seen a chart? I need all the necessary ones to determine if it'll fit my frame. Rails to top of collar, collar depth, insertion depths, etc...

    For both the 385 and 435 Integra.

    Thanks!!!
    "I wrote a hit play! What have you ever done?!"

    Have Ashtray, Will Travel....

  5. #555
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    Not a year into ownership my KS LEV 100/27.2 died
    It originally came under-pressured, and after reading on these forums about a bad batch, I sent it in for a fix. Came back and worked fine for a while until last week. I have not been riding for a month due to work, and when I took the bike for a spin, all the pressure from the seatpost was gone.

    So I rode by pulling up on the seat when I needed extra height. Sent in an RMA request, got my automatic answer, and now when I was disassembling the post, I saw that it got frozen. You can't pull on the cable anymore - it's wedged shut. Probably on the verge of snapping the nylon.

    Overall, for the money I paid for it, I expected better reliability....

  6. #556
    Doc Holiday
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    Did u try a bit of wd40 on the wedge to loosen it up? It may help..Maybe you need a cable adjustment as well..

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  7. #557
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    Way back on page 10, someone posted that a standard shift cable will not fit in the KS carbon lever:

    http://forums.mtbr.com/all-mountain/...ml#post9882948

    I don't know if KS changed the lever since then, but a standard shift cable fits my carbon lever(KS Lev 150mm, purchased Spring 2014):

    Broken cable:
    KS LEV 125mm. Am I the first to have?-ks_lever1.jpg

    Standard shift cable on left, KS cable on right:
    KS LEV 125mm. Am I the first to have?-ks_lever2.jpg

    Standard shift cable on left, KS cable on right:
    KS LEV 125mm. Am I the first to have?-ks_lever3.jpg

    Standard shift cable installed in carbon lever:
    KS LEV 125mm. Am I the first to have?-ks_lever4.jpg

  8. #558
    MattSavage
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    Quote Originally Posted by happyriding View Post
    Way back on page 10, someone posted that a standard shift cable will not fit in the KS carbon lever:

    ]
    Yeah, that was always thought of as incorrect. Not sure what cable he was using. Probably a brake cable or something...
    "I wrote a hit play! What have you ever done?!"

    Have Ashtray, Will Travel....

  9. #559
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    So i got my Lev the other day, and I'm kinda bummed that I didn't get the braided line. Instead, I got a plastic type line that won't straighten, so I have all these kinks and bends in the housing. It looks really tacky.
    So is that the standard housing now? I

  10. #560
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    I think so. Mine came with a standard black housing as well. Got it yesterday.

  11. #561
    stillanoob
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    That sucks.
    How did you straighten the housing?

  12. #562
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    So, the company i ordered from sent me a 31.6 and my frame is 30.9 That being said i never installed it and a new one is said to arrive tonight. I inspected everything from the other box and saw the housing was plain black. If the 30.9 that comes in tonight has it as well, i can for sure say that this is the new cable housing. I will let you know how it comes out tonight after install. Im possibly thinking about taking a blow dryer to it while lightly pulling the housing. Hopefully that should straighten it out a little bit.

  13. #563
    stillanoob
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    "Sometimes when it's in the package it takes a set.
    You can either leave it in the sun to straighten out or use a heat gun / blow dryer to release the set.

    Mike Alferez
    KS USA
    26741 Portola Pkwy 1E658"

    I guess that's what we get now.
    :shrugs

  14. #564
    MattSavage
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    Quote Originally Posted by bongski View Post
    So i got my Lev the other day, and I'm kinda bummed that I didn't get the braided line. Instead, I got a plastic type line that won't straighten, so I have all these kinks and bends in the housing. It looks really tacky.
    So is that the standard housing now? I
    The "braided" line would've looked the same...
    "I wrote a hit play! What have you ever done?!"

    Have Ashtray, Will Travel....

  15. #565
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    Wrecked my link cable, looking to buy replacements but no joy, so far.
    A bicycle will take you to fantastic places....if you let it.


    Ibis fan since '08 now rolling on the big wheeled Ripley.

  16. #566
    stillanoob
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattsavage View Post
    The "braided" line would've looked the same...
    meh.
    I finished installing the lev. .
    I was just shocked as to how malleable that line was. I've had the reverb and joplin before so this was different for me.

  17. #567
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    my experience with the KS LEV 125mm so far:

    purchased one year ago, I ride quite a bit. Was working perfectly until the last couple months. The issue was the post would not fully extend to 125mm, it would stop around 115mm then I could help it up the rest of the way while holding the activator button, but when I would weight it the seat would sag back down to about 115mm, so there was about 10mm of up and down slop in the post...cables, seat clamp etc. were all checked and in proper working order so no issues there, was definitely something internal.

    I figured that maybe it just needed to be serviced so I followed this procedure here:
    http://forums.mtbr.com/all-mountain/...ld-899659.html
    ^this took care of the problem for maybe 5 rides, and then the sag issue came back.

    So I sent the post in to KS for service/warranty. Overall I thought that they provided great customer service with fast turnaround times. It was about a week from sending in my post till the time I got it back. They ended up replacing the internal cartridge.

    Post is working perfect now. For how expensive these posts are I'm expecting there not to be anymore issues for a long time/ever. Will be pretty bummed if there is anymore problems with this post aside from basic service/maintenance.

  18. #568
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    I serviced mine myself and I rode only once so far, no problems..i only have 1mm sag which is the best result I can get with my current skill level... much better than 1-2 cm .. i will report again when more miles are logged.

  19. #569
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    Has anyone had any luck finding replacement parts for the short internal cable? the one that is some different material? I hear bti has them but none of my LBS can order what I need.
    count your blessings

  20. #570
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    Arts Cyclery should have some: Kind Shock Lev Kevlar Link Cable

    If not, you can use the kevlar kite string that I use. It's nice to have bulk supply.

    Free Shipping 100ft 250lb Braided Kevlar Line for Fishing Camping Kite Flying | eBay

    Arts also has replacement end barrels including the isolator pellet. The grub screw is sold separately. You could also use your old end barrels and grub screw but you'll need to use a lighter to melt out the old isolator pellet and use a snipped down one of these as your new isolator pellet: Walmart Mobile

    I posted all of these links in my thread located here so they're all in one place:

    http://forums.mtbr.com/all-mountain/...ld-899659.html

    Good luck

    - Chris

  21. #571
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    KS LEV 125mm. Am I the first to have?

    When replacing the Kevlar cable, is it compulsory to replace the pellets too?

  22. #572
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    Yup. The pellets need to be replaced. You'll need to melt the old pellets out of the barrels if you intend to reuse them. Hold the barrel with a pair of needle nose pliers and use a lighter to heat it up until it melts out (with the grub screw removed).

    Good luck
    -Chris

  23. #573
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    okay cheers!
    Quote Originally Posted by cakelly4 View Post
    Yup. The pellets need to be replaced. You'll need to melt the old pellets out of the barrels if you intend to reuse them. Hold the barrel with a pair of needle nose pliers and use a lighter to heat it up until it melts out (with the grub screw removed).

    Good luck
    -Chris

  24. #574
    Dab-O-Matic
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    For those that have or had creaking noise from the saddle clamp, I can confirm that the proper bolt torque is required to eliminate the creak.

    I thought, when I used a long hex wrench by hand, that I was really torqueing it down. Still I had the creaking noise. None of my Thompson posts require anywhere near this torque, basically never really thought about it.

    The torque spec in the literature is 8Nm, and the post says 10Nm max, so I set the torque wrench at 9 Nm and cranked down each bolt. If I didn't know better I would have thought I was going to break something. Voilà, no more creak, at least for now.
    Hope that helps.
    ASRc X0
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  25. #575
    mns
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    ks thumb lever not fully returning

    hello,
    I recently purchased a lev DX dropper.
    the thumb lever does not seem to fully return to position, in order to lock the post, and the seat is slowly moving upwards.
    The cable tensioner is ok. If i have more tension, it does not lock the post, if I reduce it, the post moves with difficulty.

    I am thinking to replace the spring in the actuator, with a harder one.
    Anybody has already tried that?
    Do you see any risks, apart from the cable to require retension earlier?


    moreover, the actuator for DX is supposed to have 6 positions (2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12 o clock). I currently have it on 4. How can I have it in 8 o clock, without the need to dismantle it?

    Thanks for all the answers,

  26. #576
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    Hey mns,

    I don't think you should have to replace the spring. There are a few things that I would recommend checking first.

    First, a few questions:

    1. Do you have the remote set up as an inner lock ring on a pair of ODI grips or just simply mounted directly to the bar?
    2. Is the cable housing all brand new or did you get the post used?

    Some things to try:

    1. If you have the lever mounted to a pair of ODI grips, sometimes the lever activation can get a little sticky if you over-tighten the bolt to attach it to the grips. I've seen this more with the Supernatural, but could be happening with the DX as well since they use a slightly cheaper lever.
    2. If you have old cable housing (or even if it's new really) - disconnect the claw at the junction end and make sure the cable slides through it with ease. If it gets caught up, replace the housing (and possibly cable). You may want to be sure you have extra derailleure cable laying around before you try this as the end gets pretty frayed and may need to be replaced after you test it.
    3. With the claw disconnected at the junction box, look closely at the claw and make sure there are no bits of cable protruding into the groove where the barrel rests when connected. Those bits of cable can actually cause drag on that barrel which in turn partially rotates that barrel which in turn keeps the post partially activated.

    To answer your last question, the DX does have several other positions, however you do have to dismantle the post to adjust it, unlike the standard LEV.

    The video to demonstrate this is located here:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vftoj9qU8II

    Let me know if it's still sticking after you try these. Good luck.

    -Chris

  27. #577
    mns
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    Hey Chris. Thanks for the tips.
    I have it directly on the bars - no ODI. I don't think it's too tight, I will check.
    It is brand new. I even greased the cable before installation to make sure it slides smoother .
    No bits of cable are protruding in the groove.
    It seems that the spring does not have the strength to push the cable/groove/barrel to the top...
    If I use the cable tensioner, the veer returns to position, but it does not lock the post. That's why I am thinking of using other spring...

  28. #578
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    Yeah, if you have it directly mounted to the bar, it's probably fine. The ones I've seen have issue when too tight were mounted to the grip.

    Are you sure you left 22 mm of cable protruding when you cut it?

    Have you taken the post apart at all?

    -Chris

  29. #579
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    I'm on my third LEV. The first two worked absolutely perfectly (both bikes stolen). The one I have now works just well enough to keep me from shooting it. It's been back to factory on a 3-week turnaround that didnt seem to do anything. Sometimes it'll work fine for 2/3rds of a ride, then start sticking in any position. It almost always sticks at full extension after a long climb. I have to bounce around on the saddle while working the lever. Or sometimes if I tap the cable adjuster it responds. Shop has given up trying to fix it. I'm living with it till I can't any longer and then KS has lost me for life... A shame because I love the ODI compatibility and ergonomics of the lever.
    All bike, all the time

  30. #580
    Doc Holiday
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    Re: KS LEV 125mm. Am I the first to have?

    Quote Originally Posted by BikeIntelligencer View Post
    I'm on my third LEV. The first two worked absolutely perfectly (both bikes stolen). The one I have now works just well enough to keep me from shooting it. It's been back to factory on a 3-week turnaround that didnt seem to do anything. Sometimes it'll work fine for 2/3rds of a ride, then start sticking in any position. It almost always sticks at full extension after a long climb. I have to bounce around on the saddle while working the lever. Or sometimes if I tap the cable adjuster it responds. Shop has given up trying to fix it. I'm living with it till I can't any longer and then KS has lost me for life... A shame because I love the ODI compatibility and ergonomics of the lever.
    That blows man.. It seems to be hit or miss with these.. I'm going on my 3rd season on the lev without issue so I count myself lucky.. I can't wait until there is the be all end all of an adjustable post.. Still have not seen it happen..

    Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk

  31. #581
    All bike, all the time
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    Wondering if it's because you got an early one. I bought my first at its intro at Sea Otter 2012 and that thing worked like a charm. Now I wonder about their QC...
    Quote Originally Posted by bohns1 View Post
    That blows man.. It seems to be hit or miss with these.. I'm going on my 3rd season on the lev without issue so I count myself lucky.. I can't wait until there is the be all end all of an adjustable post.. Still have not seen it happen..

    Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk
    All bike, all the time

  32. #582
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    Quote Originally Posted by BikeIntelligencer View Post
    I'm on my third LEV. The first two worked absolutely perfectly (both bikes stolen). The one I have now works just well enough to keep me from shooting it. It's been back to factory on a 3-week turnaround that didnt seem to do anything. Sometimes it'll work fine for 2/3rds of a ride, then start sticking in any position. It almost always sticks at full extension after a long climb. I have to bounce around on the saddle while working the lever. Or sometimes if I tap the cable adjuster it responds. Shop has given up trying to fix it. I'm living with it till I can't any longer and then KS has lost me for life... A shame because I love the ODI compatibility and ergonomics of the lever.

    That sounds like your internal cable is stretched/slipped/damaged. Once that thing is just slightly off, the post will act very inconsistently. It's an easy fix with a video tutorial on the KS site. I've also included some links in my LEV thread for where you can obtain some bulk Kevlar internal cable and isolator pellets. There are also some comments in there (somewhere in the thread) on the best ways to get the length just right. The thread is mainly about the sag issue but a lot of other good stuff in there.

    Thread is located here:

    http://forums.mtbr.com/all-mountain/...ld-899659.html

    Good luck

    -Chris

  33. #583
    All bike, all the time
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    Thanks Chris, very much appreciate your expertise and pointers but have tried them all in futility. If the factory can't make it right and the shop says no mas then my meager adeptness isn't going to be worth my time and teeth gnashing. Interestingly on my other bike I just had my Reverb fail. I figured OK time for a bleed or rebuild or whatever, it's been 2 solid rowdy years, etc etc. Rockshox told my LBS to just replace it at no charge! And get this: 3 day turnaround, no exaggeration. Kind of a tale of two cities here...

    Quote Originally Posted by cakelly4 View Post
    That sounds like your internal cable is stretched/slipped/damaged. Once that thing is just slightly off, the post will act very inconsistently. It's an easy fix with a video tutorial on the KS site. I've also included some links in my LEV thread for where you can obtain some bulk Kevlar internal cable and isolator pellets. There are also some comments in there (somewhere in the thread) on the best ways to get the length just right. The thread is mainly about the sag issue but a lot of other good stuff in there.

    Thread is located here:

    http://forums.mtbr.com/all-mountain/...ld-899659.html

    Good luck

    -Chris
    All bike, all the time

  34. #584
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    Bummer. And yes, Rock Shox customer service definitely wins.

    -Chris

  35. #585
    MattSavage
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    Quote Originally Posted by mns View Post
    hello,
    I recently purchased a lev DX dropper.
    the thumb lever does not seem to fully return to position, in order to lock the post, and the seat is slowly moving upwards.
    The cable tensioner is ok. If i have more tension, it does not lock the post, if I reduce it, the post moves with difficulty.

    I am thinking to replace the spring in the actuator, with a harder one.
    Anybody has already tried that?
    Do you see any risks, apart from the cable to require retension earlier?


    moreover, the actuator for DX is supposed to have 6 positions (2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12 o clock). I currently have it on 4. How can I have it in 8 o clock, without the need to dismantle it?

    Thanks for all the answers,
    On my DX, the cap covering the cable attachment/mechanism on the post is buggered up (came that way), so it wont fully seat and stay in, so I use a zip tie to hold it in place. BUT, if the zip tie is too tight, the cap fouls the mechanism causing the cable to not fully return, so the seat wont stay down and the thumb lever has play...

    I'd also check your cap to make sure it's seated properly and not fouling the mechanism.
    "I wrote a hit play! What have you ever done?!"

    Have Ashtray, Will Travel....

  36. #586
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    The key to keeping the cover working properly is to make sure the barbed ferrule is pulled down while pressing the lid on, then released so that the barb slides up into a small divot in the lid. The barb holds the lid in place and can be damaged easily if the lid is pressed on while the ferrule sits in its home. Someone likely damaged that before you purchased it. Good news is that you can buy a replacement ferrule (or a new lid if that got damaged) here:

    Kind Shock Lev Cable Housing Ferrule Each

    If it's the o-ring that's damaged, it can be replaced with a 1 mm x 18 mm o-ring.

    -Chris

  37. #587
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    I got my LEV from ebay in June (2014), it started sagging in November (I think)

    Had NO issues, then went out on a cooler ride (40deg F) which started fine, then
    about 1/3 of the way in, it started sagging about 2"

    I did the RMA process online, got the email, printed it all out and shipped it to them a couple weeks later. Within 1.5-2 weeks, I had it back. Has worked fine since and I went on a cold ride (about 25 deg F) with no issues.

    I was worried that since I got it from ebay (it was brand new though) they might not warranty it, but they did and I didn't have to contact anyone.
    Overall, I still like the post and plan on keeping it.

  38. #588
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    Just thought I would update this thread that if you are looking for spare KS parts and your LBS is having trouble getting them (was my situation) Arts cyclery has a decent selection ready to ship

    Mountain Bike Seatposts - 27.2, 30.9, 31.6

  39. #589
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    Kind Shock KS LEV creaking SOLVED!

    As some others users mentioned, lower seat clamp worn points indicated that it was maybe bent over time or manufactured poorly so I decided to solve it by applying glass fibre tape (as it is abrasive resistant) on lower clamp with overlap in the middle of lower clamp to compensate the gap created.
    AND IT WORKED!! No more creaking, noises, clicking...just pure silence No matter how strong was the impact on saddle.

    Indicative worn points on lower clamp:


    glass fibre tape used:


    glass fibre tape applied with overlap in the middle:
    Last edited by Bro_cro_xc; 05-26-2015 at 05:11 AM.

  40. #590
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    Going to try that. ,I've creaks when I move back and forth on my seat

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