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  1. #1
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    KS i900 FIXED. It is FULLY rebuildable at home.

    Number 1 son and I pulled the KS i900 apart the other day - and we mean A-P-A-R-T. Separated all 3 pipes (actually 2 are pipes, the other is a "plunger" rod).

    The original motivation was to replace the stupid roller bearing under the red coller (that doesn't roll, as the shaft moves perpendicular to the rollers - der!). Much better to put a brass bushing in there - so out comes the lathe. New bushing in - BUT - 3 hrs of trying to reassemble the inner shafts, spraying oil all over kitchen ceiling, just cannot get it together.

    Then, someone PsyCro over on this thread
    Ummm...Help, my KS has turned against me.
    mentions that he has seen a tiny pin-hole inside one of the indents used to turn an alloy sealing cap. We check it out, and THIS IS THE SECRET!

    Sorry for the lack of step-by-step pics - but we were so excited to get it back together (and so oily) that we just kept going, and don't really feel like pulling it apart again right now. We have labelled the pics as best we could - hope these are helpful.

    Do not listen to those who say the KS i900 is not user serviceable - it is. Works better than it ever did new now that it has a proper bushing, AND we can now tailor the speed of the seat raise because now we know where to pump the air!

    Major props to PsyCro for pointing out the pin-hole - we would never have seen it.

    Directions as follows:
    1. put the circlip into the top of the "middle" tube (the one the seat eventually clamps into)
    2. put the "plunger" into the middle tube and place it at its most extended position. Put the black ring with it's inner and outer o-rings on the outside of this shaft and the alloy cap with the hole in it over the plunger.
    3. fill the middle tube (the one with the plunger in it) to the very top with 5wt oil.
    4. place the alloy cap that buts up against the circlip into the top of the shaft filled with oil, this will seal this chamber.
    5. slide this assembly into the main shaft untill the alloy cap has pushed up against the circlip.
    6. do up the silver alloy cap that has the pinhole in it.
    7. to pressurize the chamber, be imaginative. I used a compressor tip for inflating soccer balls, wrapped some tape around it to seal, and jammed it in the indent with the pin-hole. We put about 120psi in (with the shock pump) but I'm not entirely sure, put in enough so the shaft extends by itself when you press the button on the top cap. (the one near the circlip)
    8. put the rest of the post back together, bearings, lube etc.

    Sorry for the lack of pics, we tried to label things as best we could.
    Now go tear 'em apart! What do you reckon?
    Attached Files Attached Files

  2. #2
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    Nicely done mate. Buzzy's slick honey works like a charm.

  3. #3
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    I saw a post somewhere that had detailed step by step instructions about how to rebuild this seat post. I can't remember if it was on this forum on on KS's website but there's one out there that has very good pictures and very detailed instructions.

  4. #4
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    If it's the one below, this guide above looks to go alot further

    http://www.watermanatwork.com/Land/C...jSeatpost.html

    Many thanks and props to the OP, you may have help me out no end

    Anyone have a source for getting brass bushings to fit?

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by wpuk
    If it's the one below, this guide above looks to go alot further

    http://www.watermanatwork.com/Land/C...jSeatpost.html

    Many thanks and props to the OP, you may have help me out no end

    Anyone have a source for getting brass bushings to fit?
    Yeah, that's the one I was thinking of.

    I put the Buzz's Slick Honey on mine and have ZERO stiction now. I don't know why you would want to redesign the bushing if it works as is. Try the BSH before you go to all this trouble.

    A full rebuild may be necessary eventually though so this post might make a good bookmark. I protect my post with a seat bag so I'm hoping it will give me many years of operation without the need for a rebuild.

  6. #6
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    My post was just fine - until I had a pedal-strike with the seat up, and all my weight on it. The ball bearings chunked into the guide slots - and the post was never the same again. When we pulled it apart, we found that there are 6 guide slots, and only 3 are used. On reassembly, we just used the other three guide slots. Back to slippery-dippery

  7. #7
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    It awefull that theres no detailed instructions for field service of this post. Whats the big secret? What are they afraid of? I work on forks all the time and I can get details on most all quality forks to rebuild. You might need special tools but if you work on them a lot then you buy them.

  8. #8
    catracho in aztecaland
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    Quote Originally Posted by ARCSAT View Post
    It awefull that theres no detailed instructions for field service of this post. Whats the big secret? What are they afraid of? I work on forks all the time and I can get details on most all quality forks to rebuild. You might need special tools but if you work on them a lot then you buy them.
    I'll say it has to do with the fact that there is no valve to let the pressure in the chamber out, so you need to risk blowing something in your face or garage if not disassembled properly. Definitley it was not meant to be user-serviceable.

  9. #9
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    Has anyone found a source for rebuild parts for this post. My post no longer holds the seal between the air and oil chambers after a rebuild. After my latest rebuild I got less than a ride before the post began to sag.

    Attempts at contacting Kind Shock in CA have been frustrating to put it politely.

    Universal Cycles has 2 parts available. A mystery o-ring and the DU bushing. The o-ring is very small and I suspect it belongs on the inner most shaft. I have reservations this one o-ring will solve my issue. A full o-ring kit would be preferable.

  10. #10
    aka dan51
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    This thread rules!
    My post started doing the 1" drop last week during a road trip.
    I found this thread and thought I'd give the rebuild a shot.
    I went at it slightly differently, but the end result is a post that works perfectly again and I didn't have to wait 2-3 weeks for a factory fix.
    Being able to service it at home now bumps this into the #1 place for adjustable seatposts.

    After taking it apart and seeing how it works, I am pretty sure the post busted because someone picked the bike up by the seat with the post down. I will never pull up on the seat again when it's in the down position.

    I rebuilt with 5wt fork oil, but will use 2.5wt next time. The oil that came out was thinner than the 5wt I had.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by d-bug View Post
    After taking it apart and seeing how it works, I am pretty sure the post busted because someone picked the bike up by the seat with the post down. I will never pull up on the seat again when it's in the down position.
    Just curious how this would "bust" it. I've done this more than once with no seemingly bad effects...
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by FMX_DBC View Post
    Just curious how this would "bust" it. I've done this more than once with no seemingly bad effects...
    When the seat is pushed down, the oil gets moved from one tube to another through a valve at the top of the post (lever activated). When you pull up on the seat, it creates a vacuum in the chamber where the oil was. If a few air bubbles get by a seal and get into that oil chamber it becomes "busted". It's like getting air in your hydraulic brake lines. I've picked mine up a few times by the seat and not had any problems, but the 3 times I've had problems I know the bike was picked up with the seat down. Weird thing is that the problem did not come up immediately after picking it up by the seat. Which makes me think the air gets in there, but may not get into the main chamber right away.

    I could be totally wrong about this, but after looking at the internals for 2 hours I don't think I am.

  13. #13
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    Very good to know, thanks! I'll try to avoid doing that from now on
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  14. #14
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    I sent mine in and they turned it around same day!

  15. #15
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    DISCLAIMER - I do not work for KS, this is not an officialy supported how to. I gathered info from other users in this thread who figured it all out, I just took more pictures.
    If you try this and screw it up, it's on you. I won't be held responsible for anything.
    Hopefully this will help some people out, or get KS to put out an offical guide.
    *Avoid scratching any of the surfaces, as this may allow air to get into the system.
    *Clean everything before reassembly.

    Stuff needed for rebuild.
    -2.5wt suspension oil
    -shock pump
    -ratchet and 7/16" socket
    -slick honey
    -small funnel
    -C-clip pliers with angled ends
    -ball inflation needle
    -heat shrink tubing (for the inflation needle)

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/foodandbikes/7588303704/" title="Untitled by foodandbikes, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7247/7588303704_168a68074e_b.jpg" width="1024" height="682" alt="Untitled"></a>

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/foodandbikes/7588303590/" title="1 by foodandbikes, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7131/7588303590_bbd18b3ce4_b.jpg" width="1024" height="682" alt="1"></a>

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/foodandbikes/7588303458/" title="2 by foodandbikes, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8141/7588303458_8963381d2e_b.jpg" width="1024" height="682" alt="2"></a>

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/foodandbikes/7588303322/" title="3 by foodandbikes, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7254/7588303322_d83ba25f28_b.jpg" width="1024" height="682" alt="3"></a>

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/foodandbikes/7588303220/" title="4 by foodandbikes, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7113/7588303220_e1a6cff72c_b.jpg" width="1024" height="682" alt="4"></a>

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/foodandbikes/7588303080/" title="5 by foodandbikes, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7137/7588303080_b14b1587cf_b.jpg" width="1024" height="682" alt="5"></a>

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/foodandbikes/7588302960/" title="6 by foodandbikes, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7135/7588302960_58203fea30_b.jpg" width="1024" height="682" alt="6"></a>

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/foodandbikes/7588302818/" title="7 by foodandbikes, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8142/7588302818_45788cace9_b.jpg" width="1024" height="682" alt="7"></a>

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/foodandbikes/7588302678/" title="8 by foodandbikes, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8009/7588302678_763bd5d183_b.jpg" width="682" height="1024" alt="8"></a>

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/foodandbikes/7588302558/" title="9 by foodandbikes, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7262/7588302558_5c4bc760db_b.jpg" width="1024" height="682" alt="9"></a>

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/foodandbikes/7588302480/" title="10 by foodandbikes, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8156/7588302480_937984f150_b.jpg" width="1024" height="682" alt="10"></a>

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/foodandbikes/7588302388/" title="11 by foodandbikes, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7248/7588302388_f437a40e82_b.jpg" width="1024" height="682" alt="11"></a>

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/foodandbikes/7588302282/" title="12 by foodandbikes, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8021/7588302282_eff7bfc246_b.jpg" width="1024" height="838" alt="12"></a>

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/foodandbikes/7588302150/" title="13 by foodandbikes, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7140/7588302150_9b53186446_b.jpg" width="682" height="1024" alt="13"></a>

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/foodandbikes/7588302030/" title="14 by foodandbikes, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8027/7588302030_dc8bdc4a11_b.jpg" width="682" height="1024" alt="14"></a>

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/foodandbikes/7588301916/" title="15 by foodandbikes, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8434/7588301916_b1b995358c_b.jpg" width="1024" height="903" alt="15"></a>

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/foodandbikes/7588301788/" title="16 by foodandbikes, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7128/7588301788_ca5f8b9553_b.jpg" width="1024" height="682" alt="16"></a>

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/foodandbikes/7588301662/" title="17 by foodandbikes, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8016/7588301662_19399aa2ba_b.jpg" width="1024" height="682" alt="17"></a>

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/foodandbikes/7588301584/" title="18 by foodandbikes, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7253/7588301584_0041984f9a_b.jpg" width="682" height="1024" alt="18"></a>

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/foodandbikes/7588301472/" title="19 by foodandbikes, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8020/7588301472_2b5e1894e9_b.jpg" width="682" height="1024" alt="19"></a>

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/foodandbikes/7588301354/" title="20 by foodandbikes, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8160/7588301354_e6336e0746_b.jpg" width="1024" height="682" alt="20"></a>

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/foodandbikes/7588301232/" title="21 by foodandbikes, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8290/7588301232_1fa98c3c4b_b.jpg" width="682" height="1024" alt="21"></a>

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/foodandbikes/7588301134/" title="22 by foodandbikes, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8149/7588301134_34b5bff848_b.jpg" width="1024" height="682" alt="22"></a>

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/foodandbikes/7588301038/" title="23 by foodandbikes, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7124/7588301038_06b751cd46_b.jpg" width="1024" height="717" alt="23"></a>

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/foodandbikes/7588300904/" title="24 by foodandbikes, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8149/7588300904_c702884d2f_b.jpg" width="682" height="1024" alt="24"></a>

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/foodandbikes/7588300720/" title="25 by foodandbikes, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8150/7588300720_da475909d9_b.jpg" width="1024" height="682" alt="25"></a>

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/foodandbikes/7588300586/" title="26 by foodandbikes, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7126/7588300586_e0138df4d0_b.jpg" width="682" height="1024" alt="26"></a>

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/foodandbikes/7588300462/" title="27 by foodandbikes, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7260/7588300462_bc235a040e_b.jpg" width="682" height="1024" alt="27"></a>
    Last edited by d-bug; 07-26-2012 at 08:36 AM.

  16. #16
    catracho in aztecaland
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    Quote Originally Posted by d-bug View Post
    DISCLAIMER - I do not work for KS, this is not an officialy supported how to. I gathered info from other users in this thread who figured it all out, I just took more pictures.
    If you try this and screw it up, it's on you. I won't be held responsible for anything.
    Hopefully this will help some people out, or get KS to put out an offical guide.
    *Avoid scratching any of the surfaces, as this may allow air to get into the system.
    *Clean everything before reassembly.

    Stuff needed for rebuild.
    -2.5wt suspension oil
    -shock pump
    -ratchet and 7/16" socket
    -slick honey
    -small funnel
    -C-clip pliers with angled ends
    -ball inflation need
    -heat shrink tubing (for the inflation needle)
    d-bug you da' man! Now, I having done this procedure quite a few times coming from zazzique pictures (wish I'd had yours before ) if there has been air moving into the oil chamber then the seals or the IFP have something wrong. That is what my understanding came to.

    You are implying that if you accidentally pull the seat and get air past the IFP to the oil chamber, then rebuilding is all that you need? or that definitely the seals or IFP should be replaced?

    P

  17. #17
    Dirt Bike Craig
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    Nice writeup with great pictures! Thanks!
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  18. #18
    aka dan51
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    Quote Originally Posted by pabloquintana View Post
    d-bug you da' man! Now, I having done this procedure quite a few times coming from zazzique pictures (wish I'd had yours before ) if there has been air moving into the oil chamber then the seals or the IFP have something wrong. That is what my understanding came to.

    You are implying that if you accidentally pull the seat and get air past the IFP to the oil chamber, then rebuilding is all that you need? or that definitely the seals or IFP should be replaced?

    P
    I think it could be either seals/IFP going bad, or just air getting in somehow. If the problem happens again soon then the seals/IFP likely need replacing and it should be sent to KS.
    I tend to think of this process like a brake bleed. Doesn't mean the brakes are bad, just that air got in and needs to be removed to return to optimal performance n

  19. #19
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    Good job, you know the number or reference of the quad-ring smaller for KS 950IR?

    greetings

    Duarte Guedes

    PORTUGAL

  20. #20
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    Great job d-bug.
    I don't think you could be more helpful!

  21. #21
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    what a great thread! I have a problem though, I can't get the baseplate off. just won't freaking spin.

  22. #22
    aka dan51
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    Quote Originally Posted by driveroperator View Post
    what a great thread! I have a problem though, I can't get the baseplate off. just won't freaking spin.
    There are two base plates, one internally, and one externally (on the lower black tube).
    You do not need to remove the base plate on the lower black tube. That f#@cker is hard to get out, and never provides anything when out.

    The base plate pictured above turned with little effort for me.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by d-bug View Post
    There are two base plates, one internally, and one externally (on the lower black tube).
    You do not need to remove the base plate on the lower black tube. That f#@cker is hard to get out, and never provides anything when out.

    The base plate pictured above turned with little effort for me.
    I see. attention to detail. apparently I am lacking. thanks

  24. #24
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    So I bought a used post that did work not thinking that I could fix it. So I just tried doing this last night and I have a few questions the plunger rod has a dual lip seal/o-ring near the end then it has another groove that looks like is intended for another seal or o-ring, am I missing a part here or is this how it is intended to be. Also the plunger is not solid on the end like the OP's it is hollow for an unknow depth how is this addresed when trying to reassemble and making sure not to get any air in the small tube. Is there a secret to getting the small tube (the one the plunger rides in) through the black ring, even with it centered it is very difficult to get through. So anyhow once I got it back together it was better but still not right. The post acts like the valve (on top of the post used to raise and lower) is not sealing. Is will slowly rise on its own and can be compressed or extended by hand without activating the lever/valve. Any suggestions on what to look for.
    Thanks

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    Double Post

  26. #26
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    excellent ilustration... many thanks for posting..

    got a question.... what stops the air from leaking out the pin hole ??

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by racer_46 View Post
    So I bought a used post that did work not thinking that I could fix it. So I just tried doing this last night and I have a few questions the plunger rod has a dual lip seal/o-ring near the end then it has another groove that looks like is intended for another seal or o-ring, am I missing a part here or is this how it is intended to be. Also the plunger is not solid on the end like the OP's it is hollow for an unknow depth how is this addresed when trying to reassemble and making sure not to get any air in the small tube. Is there a secret to getting the small tube (the one the plunger rides in) through the black ring, even with it centered it is very difficult to get through. So anyhow once I got it back together it was better but still not right. The post acts like the valve (on top of the post used to raise and lower) is not sealing. Is will slowly rise on its own and can be compressed or extended by hand without activating the lever/valve. Any suggestions on what to look for.
    Thanks
    That dual seal piece and lip confused me as well. The lip doesn't seem to have a purpose immediately obvious to me.
    No secret on getting the tube through the seal. Just take your time.
    Where is the hole located on the plunger? Is it on the face that points up when the post is properly assembled, or on the end where the nut goes? I just got a supernatural that has a hole at the end where the nut goes, air on that end isn't a problem.

    pictures always help.

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by tracer75 View Post
    excellent ilustration... many thanks for posting..

    got a question.... what stops the air from leaking out the pin hole ??
    Air pressure is the best I can come up with.
    When the air enters, it comes out under an o-ring. My guess is the air pressure holds the ring against the port keeping it from leaking out.

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by d-bug View Post
    Air pressure is the best I can come up with.
    When the air enters, it comes out under an o-ring. My guess is the air pressure holds the ring against the port keeping it from leaking out.
    cheers for the reply.... I was thinking along them lines too.....

    my KS 900r post went all spongy... luckily it's still under warranty, so its of to the shop to get fixed, took over a month last time

  30. #30
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    okay- another log on the fire. bought a brand new i900 off ebay. installed it. sat on the newly assembled new bike for its test spin, seat sags an inch or so. hit the lever and drop the seat all the way to bottom, and it raises on its own, without the lever being actuated. oh, when fully depressed it sounds there might be a blown seal or something- air bubbles (or some kind of bubbles...)

    fired off an email to KS, but any initial thoughts here? should i add air? leave it alone and wait for them to get back to me? just rebuild it myself? i'm not scared of doing the work. just wonder if it's a problem that is even fixable.

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by loose chain View Post
    okay- another log on the fire. bought a brand new i900 off ebay. installed it. sat on the newly assembled new bike for its test spin, seat sags an inch or so. hit the lever and drop the seat all the way to bottom, and it raises on its own, without the lever being actuated. oh, when fully depressed it sounds there might be a blown seal or something- air bubbles (or some kind of bubbles...)

    fired off an email to KS, but any initial thoughts here? should i add air? leave it alone and wait for them to get back to me? just rebuild it myself? i'm not scared of doing the work. just wonder if it's a problem that is even fixable.
    If it raises on its own, is there a chance the cable is too tight (assuming remote version), which could cause the valve to be partially opened? Detach cable and see how the post works.

    If there is no warranty, and you aren't afraid of doing the work, go for it. If under warranty send it to KS for repair.

  32. #32
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    that was my initial thought too re: open valve.

    no remote, so are there some internals having to do with the lever that might be bunk?

  33. #33
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    The lever activates a valve that looks pretty simple, maybe there is something stuck in the valve. I've never been able to get direct access to the valve. Previous posts in this thread have people able to access it. It seems to be screwed in and locked with a strong locktit. I've put a huge amount of force into unscrewing it and getting at the valve, but with no luck. You may have better luck.
    To get to is you basically unscrew the the seat mounting mechanism from the upper post.

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    nice

    have to try

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    Ok so I am finally getting back around to working on this post. Part of my issue was the seal on the inside of the float pistion was bad... most likely my fault when trying to reassemble. I think that the valve on my post my not be working properly. So my question is what causes the valve to close, is it just the oil trying to pass back through the valve when the lever is not actuated or is it supposed to be spring loaded?

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by racer_46 View Post
    Ok so I am finally getting back around to working on this post. Part of my issue was the seal on the inside of the float pistion was bad... most likely my fault when trying to reassemble. I think that the valve on my post my not be working properly. So my question is what causes the valve to close, is it just the oil trying to pass back through the valve when the lever is not actuated or is it supposed to be spring loaded?
    My guess is spring loaded.

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    D-bug, YOU DA MAN! Thanks so much for this guide. Did the rebuild today after putting it off for a long time and now the post is better than ever.

    My post hadn't been getting up all the way and was generally sluggish so I had originally done the 'light rebuild' from Waterman's page. Also did a couple mods outlined elsewhere; vented the outer chamber with a filter and sanded the main bushing under the silver ring and managed to pressurize the post a little more for faster action. This stuff helped immensely but then I realized that my post wasn't getting all of it's travel. It worked great but only went up about 110 mm. After this rebuild, It's getting all of it's travel and the action is better than ever. Actually I over pressurized to about 225 lbs so the action is a little scary. Better too much than not enough though. Maybe I'll pull it apart again soon and let a little out. I found that when you start to unscrew the silver pressurization ring, air starts to seep out before it pops off. I think around 200 would be ideal for fast action.

    Thanks again, now I can sell my post fully functional in the spring and upgrade to a LEV!
    Last edited by beaterdit; 09-25-2012 at 10:35 PM.

  38. #38
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    Tried D-bugs guide today and my post works perfectly again now

    A few notes if your going to try it :
    - wear eye protection as well as useing the rag when your unscrewing the base plate as i got spayed to the face with oil. Was just lucky i was wearing safty glasses and didn't get to much oil in my eyes.

    - i used valcanizing tape instead of shrink wrap on the needle as it seamed to give it a better seal.

    Also if you can find a pair the right size i think useing a Pin spanner would work better than the c-clip pliers. The c-clip pliers worked fine for me though.

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    D-Bug this is an awesome thread, thanks dude!
    Loose Chain, did you ever get to the bottom of the issue with your post? I've got the same problem with mine, it drops on its own, raises on its own, both intermittantly, locks in place very infrequently, and when you move cycle it up/down and cycle the lever you can hear air moving, so I assume I just need to do this bleed process?

    I've already fired of an email to Pure Racing (UK KS distributer) to find out how much it would cost to get repaired, but also see if I can blag any exploded diagrams etc from them...!

    I'll update on how mine goes.

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by MaTt 93 View Post
    Tried D-bugs guide today and my post works perfectly again now

    A few notes if your going to try it :
    - wear eye protection as well as useing the rag when your unscrewing the base plate as i got spayed to the face with oil. Was just lucky i was wearing safty glasses and didn't get to much oil in my eyes.

    - i used valcanizing tape instead of shrink wrap on the needle as it seamed to give it a better seal.

    Also if you can find a pair the right size i think useing a Pin spanner would work better than the c-clip pliers. The c-clip pliers worked fine for me though.
    Those are great points. I forget about eye protection since I wear glasses. Though I can hear my 7th grade shop teacher now..."Eye protection, son. Eye protection!"

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    Well, mine is done, but not 100% fixed!
    Mine definitely did have air in the inner tube chamber, however the main problem is that the valve is sticking open.
    I built the post with degreaser in place of oil, cycled it over and over, stripped it, washed the degreaser out, dried it, rebuilt it properly an it does now work. However, the lever still feels "gritty" and I can just tell that it's going to happen again!
    How do you separate the head from the shaft? I guess it's just threaded on, but mine has a load of resin type glue around the seal, trying to get it undone has proved a bad idea; I had it clamped in my work stand and used soft-jawed pipe grips to help try and hold it, the grips chewed through the soft jaws and have marked my shaft :-(

    Anyways, things I can add to help others in future:
    The inner tube is not symmetrical (at least not in my old 2008 post); one end has a taper to help guide the seal of the piston in, make sure it goes back bit the correct way up.
    When trying to get the inner tube re-inserted, I located the tube in the black ring by hand, then used the base plate to press the tube to the correct depth.
    To make my air adaptor the heat-shrink I had just disintegrated when I put pressure against it, I found self-amalgamating tape the best thing.

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    Thanks for the rebuild info, good stuff! But I'm still having some minor issues.

    I've rebuilt one of my posts three times now and it's sticking a little at the end of the rise. It only happens when I raise the post slowly. The post works if I let it rise fast from the bottom all the way to the top; though sometimes still sticks the last few mm. But when I do it slowly or sometimes start the rise from half way up the post will get stuck or just wont reach the last half cm for the "bump" sound. I have a newer, Supernatural model of it and it does not do that. I can get that post to rise from any level, slow or fast and it will get the "bump" sound.

    Any thoughts on what it could be? It just seems like sometimes it looses some of the power during the rise and stops. Other times it just flies up with no problems. There's plenty of grease and I just replaced the guide pins with brand new ones. Though it was doing the exact same thing with the original guide pins.

    Edit:
    Just keep playing with it and it seems to slow down right when the pins get to the needle bearing. I'm not sure if that bearing is a bit out of alignment or what but I can't get it to turn or anything. Any idea on how to adjust that bearing?
    Last edited by norcom; 01-02-2013 at 07:25 PM.

  43. #43
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    I had a similar problem once.
    In trying to fix it: I increased the air pressure, I messed with the red retaining collar, but the biggest thing I found was one of the 3 long pins got slightly bent, probably when I was putting it back together.

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    Quote Originally Posted by d-bug View Post
    I had a similar problem once.
    In trying to fix it: I increased the air pressure, I messed with the red retaining collar, but the biggest thing I found was one of the 3 long pins got slightly bent, probably when I was putting it back together.
    Thought it maybe the air pressure. This last build I cranked it to 220PSI.
    Thought it was the guide pins; just put in 3 new ones. I bent one originally when it came out and got gouged while I was trying to reassemble the post. The red collar doesn't seem to do much of anything at all. Loose or tight I still get the same symptoms.

    Thanks for the advice.

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    Quote Originally Posted by norcom View Post
    Thanks for the rebuild info, good stuff! But I'm still having some minor issues.

    I've rebuilt one of my posts three times now and it's sticking a little at the end of the rise. It only happens when I raise the post slowly. The post works if I let it rise fast from the bottom all the way to the top; though sometimes still sticks the last few mm. But when I do it slowly or sometimes start the rise from half way up the post will get stuck or just wont reach the last half cm for the "bump" sound. I have a newer, Supernatural model of it and it does not do that. I can get that post to rise from any level, slow or fast and it will get the "bump" sound.

    Any thoughts on what it could be? It just seems like sometimes it looses some of the power during the rise and stops. Other times it just flies up with no problems. There's plenty of grease and I just replaced the guide pins with brand new ones. Though it was doing the exact same thing with the original guide pins.

    Edit:
    Just keep playing with it and it seems to slow down right when the pins get to the needle bearing. I'm not sure if that bearing is a bit out of alignment or what but I can't get it to turn or anything. Any idea on how to adjust that bearing?
    Hello, I have the i950 R and it has recently developed the same exact symptoms you mention. Mine is about two years old now. Here is what worked for me:

    1. Completely disassemble the post: separate the upper stanchion from lower tube. Take off the pins, DU bushing and red collar.
    2. THOROUGHLY clean the inside of the lower tube. Especially the grooves where the pins run. A good blast with degreaser then a rag on a slim dowel should to the job.
    3. Clean and degrease the upper stanchion, pins, DU bushing and inside of red collar. Over time, dirt and grit build up inside and around the nooks and crannies of the collar and bushing. I had to rebuild the post a few times before thinking of giving them a very thorough clean and this is what seemed to work.
    4. Put a thin layer of good quality suspension grease on the inside of the rubber seal in the red collar. Slide it over the upper stanchion.
    5. Do the same for the DU bushing and reinstall.
    6. Grease up the pins and install them in their grooves on the upper stanchion. Put a healthy layer of grease on the whole thing top to bottom as well as on top of the inside of the lower tube on the oller bearing. Put some extra grease on top of the DU bushing, below the red collar.
    7. Reassemble. Cycle up and down a few times.

    Good luck!

  46. #46
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    Checkpoint22 and Dan: I really appreciate you two for sharing this!

    I pulled up on the seat attached to my 2.5 year old KS i950 this weekend while unloading and I think it need some love. The KS squeaked and moved ~1". It extends and stays locked when fully extended, but squeaks and moves up a bit when I try putting it all the way down.

    My KS post is out of warranty and I'm hoping I don't have to send it away to get it fixed.

  47. #47
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    I completely stripped mine down recently and I was having problems with the head where the actuation valve is. I wanted to get to these parts after having done most of the rebuild mentioned above. I was still getting problems of proper operation even after having gone through the rebuild a couple of times. So, after a liberal dose of heat from the paint stripper gun and some decent leverage I managed to twist the head part off with some good force against the saddle. I jammed the seatpost in the frame to hold it tight. It still took some leverage - but eventually it went.

    After that I stripped down the head parts, cleaned everything and did another rebuild.

    <a href="http://s283.photobucket.com/user/edwardgurhy/media/IMG_00351_zps72c883ed.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk318/edwardgurhy/IMG_00351_zps72c883ed.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_00351_zps72c883ed.jpg"/></a>

    I think the problem for me was that I was only getting 150psi in the air chamber. Once I thought I had managed to get about 200 - 220, but I think that it wasn't pushing air into the chamber and it was just reading at the pump and little bike pump nozzle that I had made up. I put it back on the bike and it would still not return well. I tried everything from taking some of the surface with a scotch pad from the top (DU?) bush, to removing the rubber scrapper ring, all to try and reduce friction. In the end I ended up all told stripping it down about 10 times. Must have replaced the oil five times!!!
    On the final go it finally felt that I had got around 200 to 220psi - and tell you what....... that finally sorted it. The action is now fantastic. I did need to enlist the help of the wife to actuate the pump as you can just not do it all by yourself.
    It was really satisfying when it finally went back on the bike and was all working. Went for a ride this morning in the freezing cold - and just marvelous.
    Oh yes, forgot to mention - this post was some dodgy purchase off ebay. A present to myself for my birthday. You can probably imagine my frustration whilst trying to fix is - but determination set in.

    All sorted now!

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    Forgot to list the parts in the picture, from left to right:

    broken leftover rim of threadlock that was left at the bottom of the threaded section
    pin that holds lever in place - mine is the R remote version
    red lever
    pin that pushes down onto valve
    little seal ring that goes into the groove - the ring is split / broken on mine
    return spring - pushes the pin up and off the top of the valve
    top of the shock unit with black valve piston in the top / centre

    I looked to see if I could get the valve out of the top of the shock unit, but couldn't see any easy way or circlips to have a go at. Didn't need to in the end. It was a lack of pressure that really was holding things up.

  49. #49
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    Anyone has the size for the quad ring inside the black piston? Mine was damaged, and I got a replacement one that seems to be the wrong size, as I simply can't pass the inner tube through that black piston. With the previous quad ring it was also a struggle, it might have even been when I inserted the inner tube that I damaged that quad ring, but anyway, it seems both the one that was damaged and this one are not the right size, the inner diameter of the quad ring isn't large enough so that I can insert the inner tube in the black piston

    Just for reference, what I got (I forgot the small quad ring in the rod)

    O-ring 15x1.5mm
    O-ring 18x2mm
    Quad 9,19x2.62mm
    Quad 13,94x2.62mm (This is the one I think I have the wrong size, and wanted someone to measure theirs if possible)
    Quad 15.54x2.62mm

    1 Unit of each, but there is also the small quad ring on the top of the rod, that I forgot to measure and buy
    Keith Scott: If you want to go mountain biking, then throw a leg over a new Banshee and the bike will do the talking

  50. #50
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    Pumping it back up

    FYI - If you don't have shrink tubing to seal the inflation needle, you can use the liner from a sealed cable housing end cap.
    Makes a perfect gasket.



    Sealed up better than shrink tubing for me.

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