Gravity Dropper Turbo LP

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  • 12-13-2012
    dustyduke22
    Gravity Dropper Turbo LP
    Hey everyone,

    Been eyeing one of these babies. Its just an updated version of the Turbo thats a little stronger.

    They are offered in a multi-position 125mm drop with 30.0 and larger posts. Here is where the question lies.

    You can get them with an initial 1" drop or 2.5" drop and was wondering what you guy's preference is. When I had a GD years ago, I had a 1" drop and it seemed to suit my needs but would appreciate any thoughts of the 2.5" initial drop :)

    Thanks in advance.

    *Ended up going with the Gravity Dropper. Been running one ever since then and have zero issues with it. Super easy to maintain and it just keeps on performing. There is something to be said about low maintenance dependability*
  • 12-13-2012
    ebeer
    duplicate post
  • 12-13-2012
    ebeer
    I had the GD Turbo with 1" on 3" and loved it. I've since moved to a new bike with a Command Post at 5", with the first drop at 35mm or 1.377". I really like this setting with the longer travel post.

    That said, if choosing b/t the 1" an 2.5" from GD, I'd go 1" as I think the 2.5" would be less "pedalable". I find if I want to pedal through through some techie parts I use the 1st drop...and anything else down that's fast/steep/air I've got the seat full down.

    I have read in past threads that GD will do custom positions.
  • 12-13-2012
    acfsportsfan
    I have a GD with two drop positions , 2" & 4"
    For me, it's a perfect combo. All the way up for climbing grades, 2" drop for trail riding and drop another 2" for decent's. I can't imagine riding without one now.
  • 12-13-2012
    michaelsnead
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by dustyduke22 View Post
    Hey everyone,

    Been eyeing one of these babies. Its just an updated version of the Turbo thats a little stronger.

    They are offered in a multi-position 125mm drop with 30.0 and larger posts. Here is where the question lies.

    You can get them with an initial 1" drop or 2.5" drop and was wondering what you guy's preference is. When I had a GD years ago, I had a 1" drop and it seemed to suit my needs but would appreciate any thoughts of the 2.5" initial drop :)

    Thanks in advance.

    Hi Mr. dustyduke22,

    I have a GD 4" post w/a 1" drop on one of my bikes and a GD 5" post w/a 2.5" drop on another of my bikes. I got my first GD dropper post back in 2005 so I've been using this product for some time. I was initially hesitant about getting the 2.5" drop but immediately found that I prefer it over the 1" drop. I especially appreciate the 2.5" drop on wheelie practice sessions!

    Good luck with your purchase!

    Michael:thumbsup:
  • 12-13-2012
    b-kul
    hopefully you dudes can help me out. im in the market for an adjustable seatpost and i have y eye on the gd but im a bit leary of the designated positions. i had a reverb and really liked it. will i get used to the gd or is it better to go with something infinitely adjustable?
  • 12-13-2012
    michaelsnead
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by b-kul View Post
    hopefully you dudes can help me out. im in the market for an adjustable seatpost and i have y eye on the gd but im a bit leary of the designated positions. i had a reverb and really liked it. will i get used to the gd or is it better to go with something infinitely adjustable?

    Hi Mr. b-kul,

    Of all the design features of a adjustable seatpost I feel the value of a fixed position vs. adjustable position is entirely personal preference. I prefer the fixed position because I know exactly how the bike will preform in each position. I'm never a little too low or a little too high on a particular shift.

    With the GD you can choose the amount of drop and I've come to appreciate the 2.5" drop the best. On my various bikes I have three different GDs in all their models. I have 3", 4" and 5" posts with both a 1" as well as the 2.5" drop. My favorite is a 5" post with a 2.5" drop. As many others have said it's a reliable product that works well and is backed by a company that will give you fantastic customer service should you ever need it. I highly recommend both the product and the company!

    Good luck with your purchase!

    Michael:thumbsup:
  • 12-13-2012
    dustyduke22
    GD or DOSS
    Sorry to throw this into the mix, but it seems like you can get both the DOSS from Fox and the Gravity Dropper Turbo for the same price. Both offer 3 positions and 5 inches of drop.


    Which one would you choose?
  • 12-13-2012
    b-kul
    well the gd is lighter and proven. uglier but hey.
  • 12-13-2012
    SprungShoulders
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by dustyduke22 View Post
    Sorry to throw this into the mix, but it seems like you can get both the DOSS from Fox and the Gravity Dropper Turbo for the same price. Both offer 3 positions and 5 inches of drop.

    Which one would you choose?

    GD. Hands down.

    I've owned one - and now three - for seven years running and have never had a problem. They've operated in every type of environment, from the mud and wet of BC, to the sands of Moab, to sub-zero blizzard conditions near Jackson (winter fat biking).

    Their design is proven, extra reliable, efficient, and it's one of a very few bits on my bike(s) that I never worry about.

    GD's customer service is also something Fox could only dream about.
  • 12-13-2012
    watti
    You know how your bike moves under you with fixed saddle height.So GD
  • 12-15-2012
    tudor
    Hi there

    I've had a new LP version of the GD turbo for a few weeks now. Initially I bought it with just a two position (4" drop, no middle increments) thinking that 4" wouldn't make much difference. I was so wrong! I actually found the drop too much and hated it. Thought I'd really messed and bought something that was useless.

    However, I was stoked to discover that GD sell inside tube sections with a variety of different drop setting for only $30 so you don't have to buy an entirely new post if you feel you've got the wrong drop option(s).

    I've a 2" / 4" drop section on the way and can't wait to give it a go!

    Hope this helps
  • 12-15-2012
    dustyduke22
    Then there is the new Thomson post that comes out next year. That's the only post I think I might consider instead of the GD now
  • 12-15-2012
    mtnmark
    I am jealous of all you guys who don't yet have dropper posts- Your world is about to get rocked.

    Here are my experiences having ridden and owned a number of them:

    Fixed or infinite: Fixed- You get used to it, with infinite I always wondered if it should be a little higher or lower.

    1 or 2+ inch drop: 1 I've had both and find 1 is best for me. You can still sit and pedal on a flowy descent, whereas 2+ felt too low to sit and pedal with, so if standing, why not drop it all the way?

    Hydraulic vs mechanical: Mechanical hands down- Have heard or experienced breakage with every hydraulic post on the market. Best hydraulic I have used was the Fox, but even it was starting to have issues with going from the 2in down to full extension and was 1 mo old. Other posts I have seen even worse, with catastrophic failures on the trail, or at best having to pedal home with a low (or spongy) post.

    With an easy clean and lube my gravity droppers feel good as new every time. I clean mine every spring (lasts till fall), and usually once or twice each winter depending on how much mud it sees. Takes 5 mins each time, no tools required.

    So far my 2 gravity droppers have outlasted all the other posts I have owned or been better than those I have tried. Whatever you end up with will change your life as long as it is in good working order.

    Good luck and have fun!
  • 12-15-2012
    D3NN15M
    Wasn't considering GD until this LP. Looks like they have multiple diameter and drop options now without having to use shims. IMO it looks better without the boot, as long as that doesn't mess with the operation / reliabilty. Anyone knows when the new ergo remote comes out?
  • 12-15-2012
    Miker J
    The GD is bomb proof. I've been riding them since they first came out, but I also have 2 Spec Command posts I also like ' cause I prefer set back posts.

    As far as varible drop - no brainer - go with the 1" and the full drop. Pedaling anything more than a 1" drop is really tough, IMO.
  • 12-16-2012
    D3NN15M
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by tudor View Post
    Hi there

    I've had a new LP version of the GD turbo for a few weeks now. Initially I bought it with just a two position (4" drop, no middle increments) thinking that 4" wouldn't make much difference. I was so wrong! I actually found the drop too much and hated it. Thought I'd really messed and bought something that was useless.

    However, I was stoked to discover that GD sell inside tube sections with a variety of different drop setting for only $30 so you don't have to buy an entirely new post if you feel you've got the wrong drop option(s).

    I've a 2" / 4" drop section on the way and can't wait to give it a go!

    Hope this helps

    Any pics of your setup? Just curious how "low profile" it looks now. Apparently, the LP is designed to run backwards. I assume that refers to the cable out from the post and also has something to do with the reliabilty. Thanks!
  • 12-16-2012
    inter


    Gd looks better without the boot. Mine is 1" and 4". Perfect.
  • 12-16-2012
    inter
    I even rarely clean it. Very reliable. Its been more than 2 yrs, pretty much problem free until i snapped the cable. So installed cable noodle as seen on the pic. I just replaced the inner shim, bushing and seal, cost me $6, becoz the play had become too much. Now is solid again like new, with little play.
  • 12-20-2012
    sancycling
    I like most reviews of the GD Turbo LP. I like the reliability and don't care about looks.
    One thing that I don't like about GD is the control lever. I heard or read that GD was working on a new ergonomic lever. Anyone have any details?

    I know I could use a KS, CrankBrother or other lever, but I want to avoid additional cost and trouble of getting it.
  • 12-20-2012
    jgusta
    iQUOTE=sancycling;9991871]I like most reviews of the GD Turbo LP. I like the reliability and don't care about looks.
    One thing that I don't like about GD is the control lever. I heard or read that GD was working on a new ergonomic lever. Anyone have any details?

    I know I could use a KS, CrankBrother or other lever, but I want to avoid additional cost and trouble of getting it.[/QUOTE]

    GD posts are definitely the most reliable adjustable posts on market as I have owned many of them over the years. Just wish they made a 6" post as that is what I require. The only thing going against them is that they will eventually wiggle to all heck at seat clamp and not the most aesthetically pleasing of course, but the most functional, easiest to rebuild and best custy service for posts out there, oh an USA made as well :thumbsup:
  • 12-20-2012
    D3NN15M
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by sancycling View Post
    I like most reviews of the GD Turbo LP. I like the reliability and don't care about looks.
    One thing that I don't like about GD is the control lever. I heard or read that GD was working on a new ergonomic lever. Anyone have any details?

    I know I could use a KS, CrankBrother or other lever, but I want to avoid additional cost and trouble of getting it.

    I sent them an email asking about the new remote as well. I'll let you know what they say if/when they reply.
  • 12-26-2012
    trap121
    I emailed them about the new lever as well. Was told it will be avaiable late 2013.

    Can anyone comment if running it without the boot has caused any problems?
  • 12-26-2012
    inter
    Most dropper post has no boot. The problem they have are not external, I mean, not the dirt sticking on the post, but the problem with the design or internal. How much dirt can stick on the post? I run it without the boot, and on Christmas day, I rode on a muddy trail, GD still work even with some dirt on it. The seal is pretty good. :thumbsup:

    A friend of mine kept the boot on, when she opened it, lots of dirt in it. But her GD has been working perfectly even with dirt inside the boot. It can be a dirt trap somehow. Now she runs it without the boot.:)
  • 12-29-2012
    acfsportsfan
    I never thought about cutting the boot off till I read your ^^^ reply. Yesterday I went ahead and did it and it does look much better. I also noticed that it seems a bit easier to come down, but that could just be in my head. Thanks :thumbsup:
  • 01-28-2013
    702Biff
    I just installed the GD Turbo LP on my bike. Wow...what a difference. Now I don't have to compromise with seat hieght anymore. I don't see all the fuss about the boot, it works. The switch could use improvement and I'll wait for the new one to come from GD. Get one...you won't regret.
  • 01-29-2013
    JHANguyen
    If anyone is interested in trading a 31.6 GD LP for a 31.6 Reverb Stealth, shoot me a PM!
  • 01-29-2013
    masterofnone
    I'll throw in my recommendation for the GD. I just bought my third one for a new bike, my oldest one has never been touched in the 7 years I've had it. The other one which I left on the bike I sold was 3 years old and had one issue, GD fixed it n/c even though it was two years past the warranty date. My new one has the 1" down feature which is perfect for pedaling through those uber technical sections without dropping all the way down. Yeah, they're somewhat "low tech" compared to the new posts on the market but their simplicity is why they're so reliable. I've often thought about trying their competitors but the reliability is hit or miss on most of them, it's one more component I don't have time to mess with. For disclosure sake it takes a little practice to find the middle detent on the multi position posts but there's no leaking seals, no bleeding or changing shock oil weight for the temperatures, no creeping up or down.
  • 02-03-2013
    colin1
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by tudor View Post
    I was stoked to discover that GD sell inside tube sections with a variety of different drop setting for only $30 so you don't have to buy an entirely new post if you feel you've got the wrong drop option(s).


    Hope this helps

    It does help - I've been thinking my 2" initial drop is too much, and I've wanted to try out 1" instead. Thank you,
    Colin
  • 03-19-2013
    Cope
    Considering getting the Turbo LP with multiposition 2/5 drop. My question to you guys using the multiposition is easy is it to find the 2" position? Majority of use will probably between fully up and mid position, occasionally full 5" drop. Thx
  • 03-19-2013
    michaelsnead
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Cope View Post
    Considering getting the Turbo LP with multiposition 2/5 drop. My question to you guys using the multiposition is easy is it to find the 2" position? Majority of use will probably between fully up and mid position, occasionally full 5" drop. Thx

    Hey Mr. Cope,

    I have the 2" / 5" drop on my AM bike and don't have any problems finding the mid position. That said I'm old, don't race and do everything at a deliberate, if enthusiastic, pace.;)

    Good luck with your purchase!

    Michael:thumbsup:
  • 03-20-2013
    dustyduke22
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Cope View Post
    Considering getting the Turbo LP with multiposition 2/5 drop. My question to you guys using the multiposition is easy is it to find the 2" position? Majority of use will probably between fully up and mid position, occasionally full 5" drop. Thx

    I personally found the 2 inch drop to be a little too much drop to be able to get the power through the techy section.s I ended up getting the 1 inch drop and am much more happy.

    If the 2 inch drop is anything like the 1 inch, its super easy to get into that dropped position
  • 03-20-2013
    Cope
    Thanks for the input guys, much appreciated!!
  • 03-22-2013
    trap121
    Got mine two weeks ago. Multi 4 in, up, 1 down and down. Couldent be happier with it. The 1 inch drop is perfect for me, I would imagine the 2 would be a pain to pedal.
  • 03-22-2013
    Miker J
    I wish they made the GD in a set-back post.
  • 03-26-2013
    sancycling
    I just installed a GD Turbo LP, multiposition 1" and 4". I really like how it operates, it might not be the smoothest but just seems to work. I'm glad I got the 1" drop as it is great to pedal on flowy decents and on very technical climbs. I think 2" would be too much for me. I'm still getting used to the 4" drop, but I'm feeling more comfortable every ride.

    The only thing that I don't like is that installing the cable facing backwards (as the manual specifies) makes it rub against the tire when the suspension is fully compressed. Any suggestions?
  • 03-26-2013
    masterofnone
    Ive got the classic and run it "backwards" from the website pics which makes no difference in operation. On my bike it's just a cleaner cable routing, as long as cable and housing are properly set it shouldntnt matter. Is flipping the post the other direction an option?
  • 03-26-2013
    michaelsnead
    1 Attachment(s)
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by sancycling View Post
    I just installed a GD Turbo LP, multiposition 1" and 4". I really like how it operates, it might not be the smoothest but just seems to work. I'm glad I got the 1" drop as it is great to pedal on flowy decents and on very technical climbs. I think 2" would be too much for me. I'm still getting used to the 4" drop, but I'm feeling more comfortable every ride.

    The only thing that I don't like is that installing the cable facing backwards (as the manual specifies) makes it rub against the tire when the suspension is fully compressed. Any suggestions?

    Hi Mr. sancycling,

    Gravity Dropper has a "noodle" that you can purchase from them for a few dollars that will fix that problem. You can see it on the picture of my bike:

    Attachment 784757

    Good luck with your new purchase!

    Michael:thumbsup:
  • 03-26-2013
    sancycling
    That noodle might help in my case. I'll contact GD. Thanks for the suggestion.
  • 03-26-2013
    inter
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by sancycling View Post
    That noodle might help in my case. I'll contact GD. Thanks for the suggestion.

    you can searh ebay for "v brake noodle" . and can take off the boot too, looks better.
  • 03-28-2013
    Cope
    I had a 3" GD Classic years ago. It had a little play in it, nothing too bad. Are any of you guys having issues with play on the longer drop GD Turbo's?
  • 03-28-2013
    Jeff in Bend
    GD, the AK-47 of dropper posts.
  • 03-28-2013
    trap121
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Cope View Post
    I had a 3" GD Classic years ago. It had a little play in it, nothing too bad. Are any of you guys having issues with play on the longer drop GD Turbo's?

    None, but mine is 4 weeks old
  • 04-07-2013
    colin1
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by masterofnone View Post
    Is flipping the post the other direction an option?

    It is, but I've read that the post is more likely to snap if you run the cable coming out of the front
  • 04-07-2013
    masterofnone
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by colin1 View Post
    It is, but I've read that the post is more likely to snap if you run the cable coming out of the front

    I dont know where that info came from but I wouldnt believe it for a second. On their website it specifically says you can run it facing either direction.
  • 04-07-2013
    colin1
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by masterofnone View Post
    I dont know where that info came from but I wouldnt believe it for a second. On their website it specifically says you can run it facing either direction.

    Peep this post from Stripes and you'll see what I mean - I didn't want to take that chance with my ass, yadadadig?

    http://forums.mtbr.com/all-mountain/...es-788047.html

    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Stripes View Post
    The cable is facing forward here. If you run the post with the cable backwards, this doesn't happen.

    I snapped a new post in less than a year because I ran the cable facing forward. GD doesn't document it, but when I called them to warranty the post (no problems, btw), they said run it with the cable facing forward.

    My previous GD (27.2) was run forward facing for years with zero problems.

  • 04-07-2013
    markymark
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by masterofnone View Post
    I dont know where that info came from but I wouldnt believe it for a second. On their website it specifically says you can run it facing either direction.

    It's stated on their website that running the holes at the back is better for clydes. Of course it is stronger to have the holes on the side that doesn't have all the pulling stresses from the riders weight. It's what I've been doing for 5 months, 260lb no problems. Got a shimano brake noodle too, work perfectly. No boot either.
  • 04-09-2013
    B-RAY
    Mine is 5yrs old still have no problems with it at all.
  • 04-15-2013
    vincent66
    1 Attachment(s)
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by sancycling View Post
    One thing that I don't like about GD is the control lever. I heard or read that GD was working on a new ergonomic lever.

    Just in case you don't know the trick :

    Attachment 790788

    Use a right lever on the left side of the bar (or vice-versa).
    You can action it with your thumb, and it's protected when you fall.
  • 04-17-2013
    Cope
    Picked up a GD LP Turbo last week from Universal Cycles. With the VIP15 coupon code it was $256 shipped. Really happy with it, works great. Lots of options out there now with dropper posts, but still hard to beat the old school GD!
  • 08-16-2013
    702Biff
    I have the GD Turbo LP on my & GF bikes and love it.

    Then I buy a new bike that came with a XFusion HiLo SL. Many complained that the XFusion would deminish in performance rather quickly so I figured I would switch it with my GD when it did.... it hasn't after almost 700 miles of riding. I grease the post with Slick Honey after most rides and cycle it up & down before wiping excess (as I do with my forks). I didn't want to but I like the XFusion better - still keeping the GD on standby though!
  • 08-17-2013
    D3NN15M
    Does the GD Turbo LP have any play (lateral, fore/aft, vertical)? To those who have other dropper posts, how does the play compare? And how easy/difficult is it to find the middle position, for the MP version? Are there any cases of accidental release from the bottom or middle position? Thanks.
  • 08-17-2013
    Skelldify
    You can adjust the Turbo LP so it has no play. After a couple months, mine started not staying in the full-up position when I weighted the seat. But, it was a simple adjustment to correct. However, if you turn the adjustment knob too far, there's a little up/down play.

    No lateral or fore/aft play that I notice. Also, I've never had an accidental release from the bottom or middle position.

    Finding the middle position is pretty easy after a few rides. I think I actually prefer the 3-pos over infinite now. You always know its where you want it. I find myself fiddling with the infinite position ones all the time.

    The only slight downside I've found with the GD is that it works better if you unweight the seat a little bit before you lower it. But, I didn't even realize I was doing this until I rode a Reverb a few times and didn't unweight seat before I lowered it. So I don't think it's that big of a deal. You get used to it, just like finding the middle position.
  • 08-17-2013
    masterofnone
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Skelldify View Post
    You can adjust the Turbo LP so it has no play. After a couple months, mine started not staying in the full-up position when I weighted the seat. But, it was a simple adjustment to correct. However, if you turn the adjustment knob too far, there's a little up/down play.

    No lateral or fore/aft play that I notice. Also, I've never had an accidental release from the bottom or middle position.

    Finding the middle position is pretty easy after a few rides. I think I actually prefer the 3-pos over infinite now. You always know its where you want it. I find myself fiddling with the infinite position ones all the time.

    The only slight downside I've found with the GD is that it works better if you unweight the seat a little bit before you lower it. But, I didn't even realize I was doing this until I rode a Reverb a few times and didn't unweight seat before I lowered it. So I don't think it's that big of a deal. You get used to it, just like finding the middle position.

    ^^^This. I've flirted with the idea of trying one of the infinite travel posts but I've owned three gd's now on different bikes, I really like the extremely low maintenance and reliable design. The fixed position of the cable rather than under the seat is a biggie too. There is a tiny bit of wiggle but I don't really notice it, as the above poster said if you tune it too tight it gets a little "sticky". The other reason I haven't gone with another is my legs won't allow more than 3" of rise/travel with my current bike, this reason alone makes finding any alternative nearly impossible. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong but almost all of the hydraulic posts are 4" and more and you can't limit travel.
  • 08-18-2013
    D3NN15M
    Thanks for the replies! How about the seat clamp? Seems like it is a 2-bolt design so that should be solid as well. And where did you guys purchase yours? I'm eyeing the 5"/2.5" multi-position but it seems to be only available from the GD website, which is the full price of $325.
  • 08-18-2013
    Skelldify
    Seat clamp is solid, two- bolt design like you said. I like my seat tilted slightly forward, and I had to screw the bolt into the bottom of my saddle slightly (a few mm), but no big deal.

    The handlebar clamp is plastic. Luckily they sent two with it, becuase I broke the first one by tightening it too much. A few months later I forgot, and broke the other one when I changed my handlebars... Ordered a couple new ones from GD for a few bucks, and they gave me a free extra one.
  • 08-18-2013
    fishwrinkle
    plastic remote, really? thats dumb
  • 08-20-2013
    jn35646
    The back side of the clamp is plastic...that way it breaks in a fall, not the lever/mechanism. Not so dumb.

    Should also say that I got a GD Turbo LP a couple weeks ago and love it...First dropper post so nothing to compare it to, but I went for simple, mechanical and made in USA over the alternatives.
  • 08-20-2013
    Feldybikes
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by masterofnone View Post
    The other reason I haven't gone with another is my legs won't allow more than 3" of rise/travel with my current bike, this reason alone makes finding any alternative nearly impossible.

    ??? Not sure what this has to do with your legs. Are you riding seated with the post all the way down? There's reason to do this a little, but if that's what's stopping you from having a dropper post with more travel, then, as they say on teh internetz, "you're doing it wrong."

    Quote:

    Originally Posted by masterofnone View Post
    Someone please correct me if I'm wrong but almost all of the hydraulic posts are 4" and more and you can't limit travel.

    Several companies sell clamps to limit travel, but see above comment.
  • 08-24-2013
    EnglishT
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Feldybikes View Post
    ??? Not sure what this has to do with your legs. Are you riding seated with the post all the way down? There's reason to do this a little, but if that's what's stopping you from having a dropper post with more travel, then, as they say on teh internetz, "you're doing it wrong."


    Presumably his legs aren't long enough to have a post sticking far enough out to use 3+ inches?

    If he's long in the body and short in the leg, he might wind up with a larger size bike (to get the right ETT) and the longer seat-tube would mean he can't run as much exposed seatpost.
  • 08-24-2013
    masterofnone
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by EnglishT View Post
    Presumably his legs aren't long enough to have a post sticking far enough out to use 3+ inches?

    If he's long in the body and short in the leg, he might wind up with a larger size bike (to get the right ETT) and the longer seat-tube would mean he can't run as much exposed seatpost.

    Yes, that's it. 3 1/5 would be perfect but they don't exist. I just ordered a ks lev with 4" travel.


    I do tons of reading and research before buying major components, so I'm confident I made a good choice. I still swear by gd reliability and cs, but one thing I had trouble with was hunting for that fixed middle position, usually at the worst time, disrupting my flow and focus. I was just waiting for one of these posts to stand the test of time through mutiple sources, this one looks promising. The fixed cable was a must have also.
  • 08-24-2013
    EnglishT
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by masterofnone View Post
    Yes, that's it. 3 1/5 would be perfect but they don't exist. I just ordered a ks lev with 4" travel.


    I do tons of reading and research before buying major components, so I'm confident I made a good choice. I still swear by gd reliability and cs, but one thing I had trouble with was hunting for that fixed middle position, usually at the worst time, disrupting my flow and focus. I was just waiting for one of these posts to stand the test of time through mutiple sources, this one looks promising. The fixed cable was a must have also.


    Thought it probably would be.

    Interesting that you found it difficult to hit the middle position, I always found the 1" down position very easy to find.
  • 11-19-2013
    chukulut
    1 Attachment(s)
    can anyone out there with a 4" drop turbo LP post measure the distance between the middle of the rail and the bottom of the wire extrusion part as shown in the picture? appreciate the help!!

    Attachment 848263
  • 11-19-2013
    half_man_half_scab
    Having gone from the original Turbo to the LP, I find that it is much easier to find the middle position on the LP, and use it much more often now.

    One thing I have issues with is the seat clamp bolts snapping. I torque them to about 5nm and I've had two snap randomly after DH sessions. I've never had this issue with any other seatpost. Maybe 5nm is too much? Does anybody know what the specs are?

    Other than the bolts, I've never had a failure.
  • 11-20-2013
    jn35646
    about 175mm
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by chukulut View Post
    can anyone out there with a 4" drop turbo LP post measure the distance between the middle of the rail and the bottom of the wire extrusion part as shown in the picture? appreciate the help!!

    Attachment 848263

  • 11-20-2013
    EnglishT
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by chukulut View Post
    can anyone out there with a 4" drop turbo LP post measure the distance between the middle of the rail and the bottom of the wire extrusion part as shown in the picture? appreciate the help!!

    Attachment 848263

    Depends on the seattube angle...

    You're effectively drawing the adjacent of a triangle (which will change depending on the seat tube angle) - the hypotenuse can be measured (straight line between the points you mentioned) and that adjacent (the length you want) can be worked out with simple trigonometry...

    The angle at the bottom of that triangle (within this image) is 90 minus your quoted seattube angle... so you'd need the measured length of that piece from the bottom of the wire extrusion to the seatpost rail and your seattube angle.

    Adjacent (the value you're after) = cos(90-seattubeangle)*measured length.



    (If you're happier with exact figures... I don't have that particular post to make the measurement you'd need though - I have the classic).
  • 11-20-2013
    jn35646
    Oh yeah. I measured a direct line from cable attachment to the center of the saddle rail. Not nearly as exact.

    Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
  • 11-20-2013
    EnglishT
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by jn35646 View Post
    Oh yeah. I measured a direct line from cable attachment to the center of the saddle rail. Not nearly as exact.

    Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

    So the measurement you took was straight down the middle of the post (from bottom of cable attachment to middle of saddle rail) rather than the vertical line drawn on that picture?



    (If so, that vertical line on the picture would be 155.9mm on a bike with a 73 degree seat angle; 153.1mm on a bike with a 71 degree seat angle).
  • 11-20-2013
    jn35646
    Re: Gravity Dropper Turbo LP
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by EnglishT View Post
    So the measurement you took was straight down the middle of the post (from bottom of cable attachment to middle of saddle rail) rather than the vertical line drawn on that picture?

    Yes. I suppose you could calculate the vertical with that measurement.

    Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
  • 11-20-2013
    chukulut
    thanks jn35646 for the measurement!!
    and thanks for the trigonometry lesson EnglistT :p
    I should have drawn the line parallel to the seatpost, thats the
    length I was after. looks like I'd have problem fitting the 4" drop post on me bike
  • 06-25-2014
    cjsb
    Old thread but I have a GD Turbo for about 2 monhts now. On a recent ride it became really hard to get the lever to to activate the spring in either up or down position, whether weighting or unweighting. The seat position felt odd, it turned out the seat tilted upwards. I leveled the seat and then everything started working right immediately. With the seat tilted upwards maybe the weighting force was not in the right direction, it was much harder to get it to return then to depress.

    Overall, I love the post, but the biggest aggravation is the lever, finding a good position and it seems inconsistent at times. Hopefully the seat tilting was just me not having it tight enough and not going to be an ongoing issue with the seat clamp.
  • 06-25-2014
    half_man_half_scab
    It's hard to get even tension between the seat clamp bolts on slacker seat tube angles. The 'half-moon' component of the clamp will interfere with the aft bolt on these geometries. This is an known issue by the manufacturer. They told me that you can grind down the area that makes contact with the bolt, and that they are working on a revision to address this. Perhaps this is your issue?
  • 06-25-2014
    Paris Galanis
    What do you mean by slack? How many degrees?
  • 06-25-2014
    dustyduke22
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by cjsb View Post
    Old thread but I have a GD Turbo for about 2 monhts now. On a recent ride it became really hard to get the lever to to activate the spring in either up or down position, whether weighting or unweighting. The seat position felt odd, it turned out the seat tilted upwards. I leveled the seat and then everything started working right immediately. With the seat tilted upwards maybe the weighting force was not in the right direction, it was much harder to get it to return then to depress.

    Overall, I love the post, but the biggest aggravation is the lever, finding a good position and it seems inconsistent at times. Hopefully the seat tilting was just me not having it tight enough and not going to be an ongoing issue with the seat clamp.

    I have had mine for going on 2 years now and have had no issues with it at all like you are saying.

    I have a right hand lever and run it upside down on the left side of the bar and it works like a charm. Maybe give that a try.
  • 06-25-2014
    cjsb
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by half_man_half_scab View Post
    It's hard to get even tension between the seat clamp bolts on slacker seat tube angles. The 'half-moon' component of the clamp will interfere with the aft bolt on these geometries. This is an known issue by the manufacturer. They told me that you can grind down the area that makes contact with the bolt, and that they are working on a revision to address this. Perhaps this is your issue?

    Maybe that is it, the half-moon piece seems to be the issue, can't rotate up ennough and still have threads into the clamp under the saddle, or it is very tight. I have a medium Yelli screamy, effective Sa 73, actual 70.4, don't kniw whether that is considered slack? i run about 9" of exposed post for proper pedaling.
  • 06-25-2014
    dustyduke22
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by cjsb View Post
    Maybe that is it, the half-moon piece seems to be the issue, can't rotate up ennough and still have threads into the clamp under the saddle, or it is very tight. I have a medium Yelli screamy, effective Sa 73, actual 70.4, don't kniw whether that is considered slack? i run about 9" of exposed post for proper pedaling.

    I am also on a medium Yelli and am not having the same issue as you. I don't have gobs of the front bolt coming through the nut, but all the threads are engaged and just coming through the other side. Worse case scenario, can't you source a longer bolt?
  • 07-05-2014
    cjsb
    My GD operated better after I fixed the upward tilt of the nose of my saddle. But after 2-3 rides the sticking returned. Very hard to activate down or up, I'd say 50/50 works on the first try.

    So I took it apart following steps from tech Tuesday. It was very easy to take apart, big plus. There was not much grease on the inner post. What was left had broken down (assuming they used lithium grease shipped). There was zero grease on the shim flat surface, a little on the rails and zero on the inner tube. So i re-greased and reassembled. I was surprised how little grease was there given I have been using it twice per week for about 2 months.

    Out on the street it goes up and down really smooth but now will not lock in the down position. I tightened the top cap per GD tips but that didn't help. The other option is to loosen the bottom cap.

    When I took it apart the bottom cap was maybe 1" away from the bottom of the post. Tech Tuesday says tighten it back all the way until it stops, but this puts it way back in there, maybe 3" or more?

    Anyone have experience with how far in to screw the bottom cap? It's probably just trial and error, PITA taking it out of the tube and testing...everything else was incredibly easy.
  • 07-05-2014
    colin1
    1 Attachment(s)
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by cjsb View Post
    My GD operated better after I fixed the upward tilt of the nose of my saddle. But after 2-3 rides the sticking returned. Very hard to activate down or up, I'd say 50/50 works on the first try.

    So I took it apart following steps from tech Tuesday. It was very easy to take apart, big plus. There was not much grease on the inner post. What was left had broken down (assuming they used lithium grease shipped). There was zero grease on the shim flat surface, a little on the rails and zero on the inner tube. So i re-greased and reassembled. I was surprised how little grease was there given I have been using it twice per week for about 2 months.

    Out on the street it goes up and down really smooth but now will not lock in the down position. I tightened the top cap per GD tips but that didn't help. The other option is to loosen the bottom cap.

    When I took it apart the bottom cap was maybe 1" away from the bottom of the post. Tech Tuesday says tighten it back all the way until it stops, but this puts it way back in there, maybe 3" or more?

    Anyone have experience with how far in to screw the bottom cap? It's probably just trial and error, PITA taking it out of the tube and testing...everything else was incredibly easy.

    Hey Dude, I don't know if your situation is that same as mine, but after I took my post apart and put it back together I couldn't get it to stick consistently all the way down.
    What I found was that - I think it's part 62, Bushing, in diagram linked below - has very small fins or raised areas that fit into the slots in the outer post same as the inner-post shims do. Once I got that bushing lined up properly it seated down nicely in the outside tube, and I could screw the top cap almost all the way down to the bottom of the threads it goes on. Now my post stays down no problem.

    GravityDropper Turbo Parts | GravityDropper - Adjustable Height Seatpost

    Attachment 906085
  • 07-05-2014
    cjsb
    Thanks, that is a good tip to know for future reference. I did repeated attempts of loosening the bottom cap until finally with about an inch before the bttom of th seat tube, the seat would stay in the down position.

    I eliminated the top cap as the issue as I tightened the top cap so much that the seat would not go down, so i loosened the top cap and then focused on the bottom cap until it found the right spot. I am not sure why the bottom cap is far from being in the tightest position for it to work, but hey it works, and this looks like the same position it was in when I removed it, so let's call it returned to "factory settings".

    It's a very simple post but don't understand the tightness issues with these two caps.
  • 07-05-2014
    half_man_half_scab
    I think tightening part #68, the 'bottom cap', is only going to increase preload on the spring, the initial force required to get it moving. Mine is flush with the bottom of the post to minimize preload.

    If it's not staying down I would check to make sure cabe tension is not too high.
  • 07-07-2014
    dustyduke22
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by cjsb View Post
    Thanks, that is a good tip to know for future reference. I did repeated attempts of loosening the bottom cap until finally with about an inch before the bttom of th seat tube, the seat would stay in the down position.

    I eliminated the top cap as the issue as I tightened the top cap so much that the seat would not go down, so i loosened the top cap and then focused on the bottom cap until it found the right spot. I am not sure why the bottom cap is far from being in the tightest position for it to work, but hey it works, and this looks like the same position it was in when I removed it, so let's call it returned to "factory settings".

    It's a very simple post but don't understand the tightness issues with these two caps.

    The reason you're having issues is you tightened up the to cap too much. Take it back apart and put in the plastic part on top of the spring you removed. There is a fine line with tightening the top cap. If its too tight, the bottom position wont catch. Tighten it where you think you want it. See if it goes into the bottom position. If it does, then tighten it a little bit more. You will eventually get to the point when you tighten in a tad more and it seat wont catch. Once you hit that point, back it off a little to the last place it caught. I always run a strip of electrical tape around top cap just to keep it in the right position.

    If you can't get it to catch in the dropped position, loosen the bottom cap. I have mine as loose as it will get and have no issues with having enough spring tension.
  • 07-07-2014
    cjsb
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by dustyduke22 View Post
    The reason you're having issues is you tightened up the to cap too much. Take it back apart and put in the plastic part on top of the spring you removed. There is a fine line with tightening the top cap. If its too tight, the bottom position wont catch. Tighten it where you think you want it. See if it goes into the bottom position. If it does, then tighten it a little bit more. You will eventually get to the point when you tighten in a tad more and it seat wont catch. Once you hit that point, back it off a little to the last place it caught. I always run a strip of electrical tape around top cap just to keep it in the right position.

    If you can't get it to catch in the dropped position, loosen the bottom cap. I have mine as loose as it will get and have no issues with having enough spring tension.

    Thanks for the tip. I rode it on the trails this morning and had to loosen the top cap a little after the post activated from up to down on its own. Loosening it a little seemed to do the trick as for the next 11 miles it worked perfectly.
    there is always a learning curve for me with new stuff, but I am impressed with how easy it was to take the post out and re-grease, it was less than 10 minutes.

    Next tqsk is to replace the LH switch with a RH switch so I can run it upwide down on the LH side.
  • 07-07-2014
    half_man_half_scab
    I think the function of the top cap is to manage the looseness of the bushing and seal around the inner post. When you tighten the top cap to the point that there is no play you lock the bushing and seal in place, causing binding at some point in the post's travel. Having the top cap backed off from fully tight allows the bushing and seal to float around and help the inner post find the path of least resistance down. In my experience, you can get away with having it pretty loose, and it maximizes the smoothness of travel, but it accelerates wear on the bushing and seal. Though these parts wear over time even if setup properly from the start, and it's good to check top cap tightness periodically. As they say on the GD website, just a mm of play is best.
  • 07-11-2014
    bertrenolds
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by markymark View Post
    It's stated on their website that running the holes at the back is better for clydes. Of course it is stronger to have the holes on the side that doesn't have all the pulling stresses from the riders weight. It's what I've been doing for 5 months, 260lb no problems. Got a shimano brake noodle too, work perfectly. No boot either.

    What is meant by holes at the back? I am getting this post and does that mean have the cable coming out of the tube facing the back tire and use a noodle?
  • 07-11-2014
    wankel
    Re: Gravity Dropper Turbo LP
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by bertrenolds View Post
    What is meant by holes at the back? I am getting this post and does that mean have the cable coming out of the tube facing the back tire and use a noodle?

    Yes.

    I have also been running mine without a boot and no problems so far.

    Sent from my Z10 using Tapatalk
  • 07-11-2014
    trap121
    Gravity Dropper Turbo LP
    Has anyone heard if they are going to release a new lever? There is talk about it last year but I believe that's all it amounted too
  • 07-12-2014
    cjsb
    1 Attachment(s)
    Well, don't have to fuss with adjusting the saddle bolts for a while, must have gotten lazy on some kickers and came down on the saddle, sheared the bolt and collapsed the rails. Was a nice Pure V...the cost of bad technique and lazy riding...Odd thing is that I have no idea when it happened on my ride. Noticed it when i was cleaning the bike off later at home, lifted it up by the saddle and the whole thing detached from the seatpost, somewhat comical....

    Attachment 907669
  • 07-12-2014
    colin1
    cjsb - I'd say you got lucky on that one :)
  • 07-14-2014
    dustyduke22
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by trap121 View Post
    I emailed them about the new lever as well. Was told it will be avaiable late 2013.

    Can anyone comment if running it without the boot has caused any problems?

    I have run mine without a boot from day 1. Not only does it look better, but its easier to keep things sliding properly :)
  • 07-14-2014
    cjsb
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by colin1 View Post
    cjsb - I'd say you got lucky on that one :)

    yeah, once I figured out what happened I realized how lucky I was. The rear saddle bolt was snapped in half per the picture and the front saddle bolt was driven into the bottom of the saddle and almost came through the top side of the saddle. I guess it wasn't a clean break right away and there was enough tension on everything for it all to hold together until I got home. I am going to clean my bike more frequently, this wa the first ride ina month where I cleaned it right afterwards.
  • 07-31-2014
    cjsb
    I replaced my LH switch with a RH switch to run underneath the bar on the LH side. It was really difficult not to fray the cable when I reinserted. It frayed so badly that the switch wouldn't work.

    Got a new cable and got it installed, but had a similar issue. Got the cable tightened with those tiny screws and then tried bending the cable per the GD video, but as soon as I grabbed the cable it frayed badly.

    Anyone have any tips for not fraying the cable?
  • 07-31-2014
    bertrenolds
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by cjsb View Post
    I replaced my LH switch with a RH switch to run underneath the bar on the LH side. It was really difficult not to fray the cable when I reinserted. It frayed so badly that the switch wouldn't work.

    Got a new cable and got it installed, but had a similar issue. Got the cable tightened with those tiny screws and then tried bending the cable per the GD video, but as soon as I grabbed the cable it frayed badly.

    Anyone have any tips for not fraying the cable?

    I just put a new cable in yesterday and had the same problem. I ended up just cutting my cable almost right up to where the 2 tiny screws hold down the cable. I think the real issue is that we are cutting the cable with the 2 screws tightened down, I bet if we cut the cable without the screws secured this would not happen.
  • 07-31-2014
    rockhop
    Quote:

    Anyone have any tips for not fraying the cable?
    I assume you're using proper cable cutters and not cutting pliers (aka dikes) because they'll just mash the ends.
  • 07-31-2014
    cjsb
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by bertrenolds View Post
    I just put a new cable in yesterday and had the same problem. I ended up just cutting my cable almost right up to where the 2 tiny screws hold down the cable. I think the real issue is that we are cutting the cable with the 2 screws tightened down, I bet if we cut the cable without the screws secured this would not happen.

    I cut my cable before running through the switch and the tiny screws, got it to the correct 3/4" extended from the housing, too.
  • 07-31-2014
    cjsb
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by rockhop View Post
    I assume you're using proper cable cutters and not cutting pliers (aka dikes) because they'll just mash the ends.

    I use a Park cable/housing cutter tool. After the cut there was no fraying. The cable was fine after inserting and tightening down. But when I went to bend it, just the slightest grab with the needle nose and it exploded.
  • 07-31-2014
    cjsb
    maybe a pick would work better to bend it instead of grabbing it with pliers?
  • 08-01-2014
    shoal
    Either solder the tip or can use super glue...

    Sent from my LG-D801 using Tapatalk
  • 08-01-2014
    cjsb
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by shoal View Post
    Either solder the tip or can use super glue...

    Sent from my LG-D801 using Tapatalk

    so after threading through and tightening down apply some super glue, I am going to give that a try for the next cable--thanks!
  • 08-01-2014
    Paris Galanis
    Hi. What is the max torque settings for the seat clamp bolts?
  • 06-25-2015
    cjsb
    update on the easy DIY service on the GD. I have a second GD with about a year on it, used it on 2 different bikes. Yesterday it would not stay in the down position, first time I have had issues with this one. 10 minutes of reading on the GD site and two minutes tightening the top cap and it is back to working perfectly. Love the GD!