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  1. #201
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    Quote Originally Posted by jm2e View Post
    @Ergon: How would you describe the difference between the various price points within each saddle model? Is it just rail material, or do other parts of the saddle use different materials that might affect comfort or longevity and durability? In other words, if I get the most base model, will it ride differently or hold up differently than the "pro" model?
    -no name (i.e. SMA3)
    -Sport
    -Comp
    -Pro
    -Pro Titanium
    -Pro Carbon
    Jm2e - I'm not Ergon, but I spec these on a ton of bikes so I'll add my 2 cents. I mostly install the SMC3.

    The Comp & Pro are the 2 models we sell 99% of the time since they have the TInox rails. The Comp has a nylon composite shell, vs the Pro has a carbon composite shell. I have both on my personal fleet of mtn bikes and I can't tell the difference in the ride quality.

    I did have one guy bend a chromoly rail, but I think that might have been an isolated incident. I personally only recommend the Comp & Pro with the TInox rails.

    Hope that helps.
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  2. #202
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    Quote Originally Posted by ehfour View Post
    The terrain I ride is fireroad up and DH down on a 160mm AM, 175-180lbs with gear and 1-2 hrs ride 3-4 times a week. Any additional thoughts or insight before I pull the trigger on option 1 or 2?
    The riding style you described points you to the SMA3, which is our comfort trail saddle. Personally, this is my go-to for places like Sedona and Moab.....3+ hour rides with longer pedaling sections and then lengthy technical downhills.

    Jeff K
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  3. #203
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    Quote Originally Posted by jm2e View Post
    @Ergon: How would you describe the difference between the various price points within each saddle model? Is it just rail material, or do other parts of the saddle use different materials that might affect comfort or longevity and durability? In other words, if I get the most base model, will it ride differently or hold up differently than the "pro" model?
    -no name (i.e. SMA3)
    -Sport
    -Comp
    -Pro
    -Pro Titanium
    -Pro Carbon
    The sub-models reflects material used for rails, shell, foam, cover, etc. Some examples....

    Pro - Ti rails, carbon shell
    Pro Carbon - carbon rails, carbon shell
    Comp - Ti rails, plastic shell
    Pro Ti - solid ti rails, carbon shell

    Detailed break down of saddle models and materials on website as well as this PDF.

    Having ridden just about every model, I can tell you the carbon shelled saddles are stiffer. The plastic shelled saddles are a bit more forgiving due to a bit more flex. Personally, I prefer a firm saddle...found on Pro and Pro Carbon models.

    Our most popular saddles are Comp and Pro models.

    Jeff K
    Ergon US

  4. #204
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    Belated brief review. I rode the SMR3 on my Mukluk early this year in the Arrowhead Ultra endurance race. Mated up with Ground Effect Underdog shorts I was a happy as a clam. I had to end my race at mile 100 after breaking five ribs at mile 75, but riding from 7 AM to 8:30 PM, with only two 15 minute breaks, I was amazed how comfortable I was in the saddle. No chafing, no sore spots, all on varied terrain of mostly flats to begin and then significant hills after mile 40.

  5. #205
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    maybe the ergon rep can help me here.

    i have the sme3 size medium. how do i go about installing or confirming the saddle is level, considering it has a dip or hump in the middle? i have a spirit level, and according to the setup picture im supposed to put the level at the nose, starting at the centerline of the saddle. but there's a dip at the centerline of the saddle

    setup picture:
    Ergon SM3 saddle-44070310_detail_1.png
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  6. #206
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    Quote Originally Posted by useport80 View Post
    maybe the ergon rep can help me here.

    i have the sme3 size medium. how do i go about installing or confirming the saddle is level, considering it has a dip or hump in the middle? i have a spirit level, and according to the setup picture im supposed to put the level at the nose, starting at the centerline of the saddle. but there's a dip at the centerline of the saddle

    setup picture:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Yes, there is a minor relief in the saddle. The bottom of the relief does not figure into the equation when leveling the saddle. You want to look at the saddle as an overall, especially where your sit bones will be contacting. Best it to take a level and run it from the sit bone area to the nose of the saddle. This area is level and will give you a starting point. Ultimately, saddle angle will vary from rider to rider based on bike set up, bike geometry, rider flexibility, rider specific needs, etc, etc

    Jeff K
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  7. #207
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    Just ordered a medium smc3. Mostly based on the awesome reviews but also because of Jeff's great help in this thread.

    I've been riding specialized avatar comp 143s for years and they're discontinued​. The ones I own have bent rails and creak. The smc3 seems like a fairly close match. Hope this works out cause I need a lifeline. I've bought and returned several other saddles in the last year, usually for being too hard. And I hate anything with a rise in the rear, which eliminates a LOT of options. Will report back soon. If I like it, I'll be buying 2 more.

  8. #208
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    Once I tried an SMR3, I had to swap all my bikes over to Ergon. Two SMR3 and one SME3. Excellent saddles...

    and oh so light.



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  9. #209
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    Yep, that's what I thought your living room would look like 😉

  10. #210
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    Quote Originally Posted by 92gli View Post
    Yep, that's what I thought your living room would look like 😉
    That's actually my bike room but where I do most of my living.
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  11. #211
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    Got the smc3 today and love it so far. I threw it on my road bike so I could try it right away. Definitely ordering another.

  12. #212
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    BTW, Nashbar has a screaming deal on SR3's (road saddle). $20 - $60 for Regular, Pro and Pro Carbon depending on type, size and color. Looks like they are closing them out or something. I ordered two Pro Carbon for the road bikes (they only had M Pro Carbon M white but swap the bar tape and I'm good to go).

  13. #213
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    hey so I just ordered your smr3 pro carbon saddle and I was checking to make sure it will fit my seat post.

    I have a thomson dropper post and a few pages back you said something about oval rails.....do I need to do something to make it fit

    thanks

  14. #214
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    Quote Originally Posted by Singletrackd View Post
    hey so I just ordered your smr3 pro carbon saddle and I was checking to make sure it will fit my seat post.

    I have a thomson dropper post and a few pages back you said something about oval rails.....do I need to do something to make it fit

    thanks
    They do offer different clamps for carbon rails, but you only need them if you're having a hard time getting the nose of your saddle down far enough. Being that my Vertigo has a slacker than most STA, I'd say you're safe.
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  15. #215
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    Quote Originally Posted by Singletrackd View Post
    I have a thomson dropper post and a few pages back you said something about oval rails.....do I need to do something to make it fit
    Thomson has an alternate saddle rail clamps for oval rails. This is 100% needed to work with our Pro Carbon saddle models.

    Jeff K
    Ergon US

  16. #216
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    Quote Originally Posted by ERGON View Post
    Thomson has an alternate saddle rail clamps for oval rails. This is 100% needed to work with our Pro Carbon saddle models.

    Jeff K
    Ergon US
    Jeff,

    I have two carbon railed Ergon saddles mounted on Thomson droopers. The Thomson site doesn't have a lot of information about the carbon specific clamps, but I did some digging and found this more informative bit on Chain Reaction:

    "So, if you have rails larger than 7mm do you need this new clampset? Maybe, maybe not. Thomsons standard rail clamps can accommodate rails up to 7 x 10mm, but riders using their setback post with over-sized rails may have issues getting the saddle nose down. If this is you, the over-sized rail clampset will give you about 5 to 8 more degrees of nose down adjustment. The over-sized rail clampset is also more cosmetically appealing than the standard clamps on over-sized rails.

    Either clampset is okay for use on carbon saddle rails. The over-sized rail clampset is compatible with any vintage Elite or Masterpiece seatpost."

    That and when I asked my LBS to order the special clamps, they didn't even know what I was talking about. They said they'd been putting carbon railed saddles on Thomson posts for years.

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  17. #217
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    The two bikes furthest left... both crabon Ergons on Thomson droopers.

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  18. #218
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    I have a Ergon SM3-L, i've had this one for several years and I'm not sure which saddle this corresponds to now with the new designation? any help?

  19. #219
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    Jeff, could you please break down the differences between the SMC3 and SMA3 for me? I understand that the SMA3 is more geared towards trails and the SMC3 towards touring, but what if you like to do both equally? Which saddle is the better compromise for both of these activities?

    I was also wondering about which size to get, as I have a sit bone width of 11cm and am right inbetween the S (9-11) and M (11-13) sizes.

  20. #220
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    The SM3 at the time was our only saddle. This saddle is now the SMR3. If you had the SM3-L, the equivalent would me the SMR3-M

  21. #221
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    The SMC3 is more of a dedicated sitting saddle, ie: XC riding style. Ideal SMC3 rider is casual mtber that is out doing 2+ hour xc rides with his buddies on local singletrack. The SMC3 uses same shell as our xc race saddle, the SMR3.

    SMA3 has a smoother shape, shorter nose, etc. This is a great saddle for say like spending the weekend riding in a place like Moab. Your on a 140+ travel bike, dropper post, etc, and your going up and much as down. The SMA3 uses the exact same shell as our SME3 (enduro race saddle). Only difference over the SME3 is the SMA3 has more foam and a relief channel.

    If you measure 11cm, get a Medium.

  22. #222
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    Quote Originally Posted by ERGON View Post
    The SMC3 is more of a dedicated sitting saddle, ie: XC riding style. Ideal SMC3 rider is casual mtber that is out doing 2+ hour xc rides with his buddies on local singletrack. The SMC3 uses same shell as our xc race saddle, the SMR3.

    SMA3 has a smoother shape, shorter nose, etc. This is a great saddle for say like spending the weekend riding in a place like Moab. Your on a 140+ travel bike, dropper post, etc, and your going up and much as down. The SMA3 uses the exact same shell as our SME3 (enduro race saddle). Only difference over the SME3 is the SMA3 has more foam and a relief channel.

    If you measure 11cm, get a Medium.
    Thanks a lot for the quick reply, but I'm still a little confused, please allow me to give you some more detail. I ride a hardtail with a standard seatpost and I use it for both light to medium up and down trail riding (no downhill or enduro) and long XC tours (~120km).

    Maybe I'm asking for a compromise that doesn't exist, but if you had to give a recommendation, which of these saddles suits both of these riding styles best?

    Also, to be honest, I never quite got the purpose of a "trail saddle" because when you're riding down a trail, you're not sitting in the saddle anyway...

  23. #223
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    Definitely the SMC3 model.

    The SMA3 not a viable option based on what you just told me.

    Trail saddles tend to be shorter in length also more fluid in shape. Versus an "xc" style/shaped saddle, the shorter and fluid shape of a trail saddle is easier to move around over as well as deflect the rider legs and clothing.

  24. #224
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    All right, thanks a lot, I was kinda leaning towards the SMC3 anyway .

  25. #225
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    Thanks for the reply.has the seat changed any since my old seat and i assume the size has changed since my old saddle was a large and now you say a medium will work?

  26. #226
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    Yes, at the time of the SM3, this was our one and only model and it was only offered as a S or L. This older model has been greatly upgraded in materials. Also the SM3-L is now our M sized saddles. A new L size has been introduced.

  27. #227
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    Maybe not the best place for this, but I've got an SME3 (145mm) with the blue accents that I rode for about 6 months. Just didn't work for me. PM me if interested in it.
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  28. #228
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    Finally got all of my bikes switched over to Ergon saddles after being blown away by the comfort of a new SM3 I took on a bikepacking trip last summer. For me, the big difference seems to come from the sit-bone indentations, which creates a noticeable improvement in stability over my previous favorite, the WTB Silverado. Now that I'm used to the Ergons, riding a Silverado feels like I'm balanced atop it vs. the more locked in position I get with the Ergon.

    Hey Jeff, my SMR3 Carbon has lost its little yellow cap beneath the forward rails. Any reason it's needed?

  29. #229
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    Quote Originally Posted by albeant View Post
    Hey Jeff, my SMR3 Carbon has lost its little yellow cap beneath the forward rails. Any reason it's needed?
    No, not 100% needed. It's simply a cover.

  30. #230
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    Hi ergon,

    I do not have the luxury of getting my sit bone width measured locally.

    As such, I would like to tap on your experience. Im riding a 6" full Sus bike. Most of the time I'll be on my saddle when I climb. During decent, my dropper post will lower my saddle.

    I riding a WTB pureV which sometimes numb my lower region on Long rides. Also, the profile of the saddle don't allow me to shift my weight far back as I would like.

    As such, I'm looking to get a suggestion for a saddle from your lineup. My Hip circumference measured 95cm. When I ride, it will usually be about 5-6 hours (2 hours to get to the trail )

    Thanks !

  31. #231
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    You can measure your sit bone width with a piece of aluminum foil and a metric tape measure/ruler. Put the foil down on some carpet (preferably slightly raised, like on stairs). Sit down on the foil (not wearing jeans or something with seams). Press your butt down firmly to make a good impression then carefully stand up. You should be able to see indentations of your sit bones. Measure the center to center distance of those with your tape measure.

  32. #232
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    @Cup, suggested saddle is the SMA3, which is our comfort trail / all-mountain saddle. This saddle uses the same shell and shape as our SME3 enduro race saddle, but with more foam and a relief channel.

    Andeh suggestion above good for at-home saddle sizing.

    Also be sure to plug all you info into our saddle selector - Saddle Selector / ERGON BIKE

  33. #233
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    I just bought the Ergon SMA3 Comp Stealth saddle medium sized. The fit is fantastic, it looks very sporty, and it's very comfortable. The shape allows for seamless transitioning off the back of the saddle. Well done Ergon.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Ergon SM3 saddle-20170426_161830-2-.jpg  

    Ergon SM3 saddle-20170426_161809-2-.jpg  


  34. #234
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    Tried the foil method mention. Couldn't get the indentation after more then 30mins of trying.

    I tried to manually feel for my butt bone and manually measured with the tape. It shows 16cm. Should I go for medium for the model , SMA3?

    Thanks

  35. #235
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    Quote Originally Posted by cup View Post
    Tried the foil method mention. Couldn't get the indentation after more then 30mins of trying.

    I tried to manually feel for my butt bone and manually measured with the tape. It shows 16cm. Should I go for medium for the model , SMA3?

    Thanks
    Try this method.




  36. #236
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    @Ergon, I'm about to pull the trigger on a SMA3 Comp and wanted to confirm the sizing before I do. My sit bones measure 10.5cm which puts me really close to the cusp of the two sizes. Do you advise I go for the smaller or larger size? I'm 6'2" and 174 lbs. Thanks.

  37. #237
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    Go larger if you fall between two sizes.

  38. #238
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    anyone experience creaking or noises from the sneeze nose?

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  39. #239
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    So a quick impression of my SMA3 Comp Stealth Black. I'm please with how it looks and the weight. The thumb indentation test says it's fairly firm, quite a bit firmer than the 4 year old Bontrager Evoke I had on loan from a friend. My sit bones measured 10.5cm and so went for the medium size as advised.

    I did a 1.5 hour ride yesterday on mostly rooty trail and after about 50mins became really uncomfortable with my perineum area and the inside of my sit bones hurting. When I got back I noticed that my saddle had slid all the way back in the seat clamp (still can't figure how as I torqued it to 12Nm as indicated on my seat clamp, and it felt tight) but would explain the pain I was getting as I must have subconsciously started sitting further forward on the saddle than I should to compensate for the saddle going back.

    After resetting the saddle I did another 1 hour ride today and it seemed better but difficult to tell as my rear was still a little tender from yesterday.

    One minor issue is the black coating on the rails as pretty much already worn off where it gets clamped which is disappointing. I did some back and forth seat adjustments so now two thirds of my rails are now worn to silver. It's minor but I would have hoped the coating was more durable.

    Also, I seem to have a creak or a tick sound from the saddle when I'm riding seated. I cannot pinpoint from where on the saddle it originates as I cannot replicate the noise when off the saddle and forcing it in various directions by hand. I didn't have any sound with the old saddle so this must be saddle related. I'm going to have to do some more investigating but it's a little irritating as I try keep my bike silent.

    So at the moment the verdict is still out whether this saddle is a good fit for me.

  40. #240
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    Quote Originally Posted by trail-blazer View Post
    So a quick impression of my SMA3 Comp Stealth Black. I'm please with how it looks and the weight. The thumb indentation test says it's fairly firm, quite a bit firmer than the 4 year old Bontrager Evoke I had on loan from a friend. My sit bones measured 10.5cm and so went for the medium size as advised.

    I did a 1.5 hour ride yesterday on mostly rooty trail and after about 50mins became really uncomfortable with my perineum area and the inside of my sit bones hurting. When I got back I noticed that my saddle had slid all the way back in the seat clamp (still can't figure how as I torqued it to 12Nm as indicated on my seat clamp, and it felt tight) but would explain the pain I was getting as I must have subconsciously started sitting further forward on the saddle than I should to compensate for the saddle going back.

    After resetting the saddle I did another 1 hour ride today and it seemed better but difficult to tell as my rear was still a little tender from yesterday.

    One minor issue is the black coating on the rails as pretty much already worn off where it gets clamped which is disappointing. I did some back and forth seat adjustments so now two thirds of my rails are now worn to silver. It's minor but I would have hoped the coating was more durable.

    Also, I seem to have a creak or a tick sound from the saddle when I'm riding seated. I cannot pinpoint from where on the saddle it originates as I cannot replicate the noise when off the saddle and forcing it in various directions by hand. I didn't have any sound with the old saddle so this must be saddle related. I'm going to have to do some more investigating but it's a little irritating as I try keep my bike silent.

    So at the moment the verdict is still out whether this saddle is a good fit for me.
    yeah i just developed a few creaks and noises with my sme3. im not sure why it started happening after only 4 months of use.

    the saddle is definitely firm, i still haven't decided if i like the saddle.
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  41. #241
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    I have a SMC3 Comp saddle that I have been using for a year now. No creaks on it yet . I weigh 260 fully kitted with 3L hydration pack. I have been happy with it. But I also know that each one's bottom is different.

  42. #242
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    Quote Originally Posted by huckleberry hound View Post
    I have a SMC3 Comp saddle that I have been using for a year now. No creaks on it yet . I weigh 260 fully kitted with 3L hydration pack. I have been happy with it. But I also know that each one's bottom is different.
    Did it take any time to break in and if so how long approx.? I'm wondering how long I should give mine before I call it a day and move on.

  43. #243
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    I knew instantly that it was a match. On the other hand my previous saddle took about a month to get used to.

  44. #244
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    If your saddle appears to be making noise, please double check a few things that we have seen as noise makers outside of the saddle.

    1. Make sure seatpost rails are clean and free of any dirt and/or grit.
    2. Make sure seatpost rail clamps are tightened to torque spec.
    3. Make sure seapost as it slides into the seat tube is clean, free of dirt, and tightened to torque spec.

    If these are all good-to-go and noise is indeed coming from saddle, please return the saddle to an Ergon retailer for warranty consideration. All Ergon saddle should be solid, no move, and be noise free.

  45. #245
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    im sorry if this has already been answered, but how is the firmness of the sma compare to the sme ?

    i might my sme3 to be pretty firm. im starting to wonder if i should switch it out for an sma
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  46. #246
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    The the SMA3 is the comfort version of the SME3. The SME3 was developed for the riders and racers on the EWS circuit....so naturally it is firmer. The SMA3 is a comfort trail saddle. The SMA3 takes the SME3 shell and shape and adds thicker foam as well as a considerable relief channel.

  47. #247
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    @Ergon. I got a SMA3 in medium a couple of weeks ago. I measured between 10cm and 10.5cm after taking 3 sit bone measurements. As I was close to the cusp for the two sizes I was advised to go for the larger size.

    I did a 5 hour ride over the weekend and got really bad chafing around my sit bone area, something I've never experienced before with other saddles. Also, I had some discomfort / pain on the inside edge of my sit bones and perineum area. It's almost like my weight is being carried on the edges of the relief channel and need to tilt the saddle slightly nose down to relieve that pressure. I'm not sure why I got the chafing but I assume it is fit related.

    So my question is, do you think the smaller size may suit me better? Does the smaller size have a narrower relief channel? I'm going to keep using it for another couple of weeks to make sure it's not just a break in thing but wonder if the smaller size would be better before exploring other options.

    I know saddles are very personal and it may be that the Ergon fit just doesn't suit me but want to make sure I've given it a proper chance.

  48. #248
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    The relief channel will be the same size on the S and M saddles.

    Chances are you need to drop your saddle height 1-3mm....same with a possible 1-2 nose down. Ergon saddles tend to be taller on the rails than other saddle brands. So, you cannot simply just replace your old saddle with the Ergon saddle and be good to go. As with any new saddle purchase, there will be some adjustments needed.

    We always suggest seeing a professional bike fitter to get dialed into any new saddle and/or bike. There are so many variables effecting riding discomforts that need to be addressed.

  49. #249
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    Quote Originally Posted by ERGON View Post
    The relief channel will be the same size on the S and M saddles.

    Chances are you need to drop your saddle height 1-3mm....same with a possible 1-2 nose down. Ergon saddles tend to be taller on the rails than other saddle brands. So, you cannot simply just replace your old saddle with the Ergon saddle and be good to go. As with any new saddle purchase, there will be some adjustments needed.

    We always suggest seeing a professional bike fitter to get dialed into any new saddle and/or bike. There are so many variables effecting riding discomforts that need to be addressed.
    Thanks for replying. Good to know there is no difference in relief channel size. I'll check my saddle height but curiously on my last ride I felt that the saddle it could do with going a little higher but I'll check it to be certain. I have already got it pointing 0.5-1deg down but will try with a little more. It's difficult to measure the angle as there is no level section unless you measure on the rails. Following the method on the diagram on the packaging isn't very precise.

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