Page 2 of 6 FirstFirst 123456 LastLast
Results 101 to 200 of 588
  1. #101
    mtbr member
    Reputation: kevingp's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    237
    Anyone got this already?

  2. #102
    74 & 29 pilot
    Reputation: MTB Pilot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    2,270
    Played with one today at the shop when the rep stopped by. Really nice and light. Action was smooth and the build seems solid. Can't wait to get one.

    MTBP
    MTBP
    "GIVE ME LIBERTY OR GIVE ME DEATH!"
    Turn on the truth: http://www.ronpaulchannel.com/

  3. #103
    Faster it.
    Reputation: Raine's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    77
    The shop I ordered from called the other day and said that the shipment should arrive sometime within the next 10 days

  4. #104
    mtbr member
    Reputation: robertj's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    402
    Subscribe...I'm interested in this post, sounds promising.

  5. #105
    fc
    fc is offline
    stoked Administrator
    Reputation: fc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 1996
    Posts
    26,935
    Here's our first-look review.

    Crank Brothers Kronolog Seatpost Revealed | Mountain Bike Review

    I'll update with video of all the internals and design stages.

    fc

  6. #106
    mtbr member
    Reputation: cerebroside's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    937
    My local shop is saying that their supplier won't have these until late summer.
    Anyone else had better luck?

  7. #107
    mtbr member
    Reputation: kevingp's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    237
    What are the advantages of this seatpost to regular ones? Does it act like a shock?

  8. #108
    mtbr member
    Reputation: cerebroside's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    937
    It is adjustable on the fly, so you don't have to stop moving or get off the bike to put your seatpost down for downhill or up for climbs. The video francois posted above goes through it pretty well.

  9. #109
    mtbr member
    Reputation: oh-really's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    99
    Quote Originally Posted by cerebroside View Post
    My local shop is saying that their supplier won't have these until late summer.
    Anyone else had better luck?
    My shop said their distributor will have them may 15th. Who knows?

  10. #110
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Calhoun's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    2,040
    looks like it survived WC DH

    "Mi amor Nuevo Miércoles!"

    -cabra cadabra

  11. #111
    Mr. Knowitall
    Reputation: hssp's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    852
    Quote Originally Posted by Calhoun View Post
    looks like it survived WC DH

    So it handles clamping the inner shaft? Most seatposts should however survice WC DH unless you crash

  12. #112
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    175
    Can you lift the bike by the seat with the post at ANY position? Everywhere seems to be saying that you can only do that at the lowest position.

  13. #113
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Calhoun's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    2,040
    Quote Originally Posted by hssp View Post
    So it handles clamping the inner shaft? Most seatposts should however survice WC DH unless you crash
    the Joplin would stop working without a crash
    "Mi amor Nuevo Miércoles!"

    -cabra cadabra

  14. #114
    mtbr member
    Reputation: socalMX's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    2,275
    Quote Originally Posted by francois View Post
    Here's our first-look review.

    Crank Brothers Kronolog Seatpost Revealed | Mountain Bike Review

    I'll update with video of all the internals and design stages.

    fc
    Thanks for the video! Yea, my Joplin4 on my NomadC has failed again! CB emailed me saying they will be offering a trade in value for the Krono... My only concern now is the mechanism not ollowing one to drop the seat all the way down as I like my seat really low! How tall is the mechanism? The collar on the Joplin is only about 3/4!

  15. #115
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Surfas's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    808
    Quote Originally Posted by socalMX View Post
    Thanks for the video! Yea, my Joplin4 on my NomadC has failed again! CB emailed me saying they will be offering a trade in value for the Krono... My only concern now is the mechanism not ollowing one to drop the seat all the way down as I like my seat really low! How tall is the mechanism? The collar on the Joplin is only about 3/4!
    Minimum exposed seatpost height is high at 5 inches + 2 inches to allow the rider to get the full 5 inches of adjustability. As a workaround, the max height of the post can be reduced with internal shims.

  16. #116
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    246
    I email crankbrothers about availability in So Cal and they said late March, early April.

  17. #117
    g3h6o3
    Reputation: PissedOffCil's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    3,707
    They mentionened they are working on a 27.2 version but any words on 30.0???
    Check out my SportTracks plugins for some training aid software.

  18. #118
    Mr. Knowitall
    Reputation: hssp's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    852
    Quote Originally Posted by PissedOffCil View Post
    They mentionened they are working on a 27.2 version but any words on 30.0???
    What frames have 30.0? This is highly off standard dimensions, but can be fixed using a shim

  19. #119
    g3h6o3
    Reputation: PissedOffCil's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    3,707
    It's not that uncommon... Older Norcos & Transitions used it among others.
    Check out my SportTracks plugins for some training aid software.

  20. #120
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    143
    Does anyone know the minimum insertion length of the krnonlog, or rather what's is total usable height fully extended? If it's 100mm minimum insert that would leave about 305 left over to the seat rails at the longest safe height. Or is it less than that?

    One of my KS posts with a 4" drop can extend about 241mm from the collar, while the other with 5" drop is 266mm, and I'm guessing KS's 6" drop then would go 292mm

    If the krnonlog can go 305 that allow me a more of a range in frame sizes. I like a super high seat compared to the frame.

    Also, I've never quite understood post lengths. When they say 405mm that doesn't mean it's 405mm plus the minimum insert right? It'd be much easier if they just listed posts with their total usable length. Unless I'm mistaken and that's what they already do?

  21. #121
    mtbr member
    Reputation: eurospek's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    5,464
    Quote Originally Posted by nord1899 View Post
    Any online shops out there that have this available to order from? Or anyone know when its expected to be generally available?
    Crank Brothers Kronolog Adjustable Height Seatpost - Pro Bike Supply
    konahonzo

  22. #122
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    240
    Any online shops out there that have this available to order from? Or anyone know when its expected to be generally available?

  23. #123
    mtbr member
    Reputation: socalMX's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    2,275
    Not til May 15 for this shop!

  24. #124
    74 & 29 pilot
    Reputation: MTB Pilot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    2,270
    Worst "company" that I've EVER had the pleasure to deal with. It's just a couple of guys with parts in their closets and no real phone # to get a hold of them on. They don't have in stock what they have on their website. They also sell on FleaBay and their reviews are awful.

    Forewarned

    MTBP
    MTBP
    "GIVE ME LIBERTY OR GIVE ME DEATH!"
    Turn on the truth: http://www.ronpaulchannel.com/

  25. #125
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mojojojoaf's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    761
    Yeah I was willing to give this post a try and still will but I needed to replace the KS I sold since I have a Moab trip planned for early May....couldnt wait. Got a spesh Blacklite.

  26. #126
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jazzanova's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    2,701

    Kronolog and KS Lev

    I have a kronolog waiting for me at my LBS. It does look nice. I am also considering to wait for a KS Lev, which should be out in 2 weeks. The Lev will be over $400.00 if not $450.00 which is steep... Kronolog is for $300.00.
    But I do like the KS lever much more. It should be also a little bit lighter. Somewhere between 450g and 480g.
    Thomson will be coming with their seatpost as well. But it is going to be >600g...
    Hmm...

  27. #127
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    246
    Quote Originally Posted by jazzanova View Post
    I have a kronolog waiting for me at my LBS.
    Who has these in stock?

  28. #128
    I am Specialized
    Reputation: tp806's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    780
    Quote Originally Posted by jazzanova View Post
    I have a kronolog waiting for me at my LBS. It does look nice. I am also considering to wait for a KS Lev, which should be out in 2 weeks. The Lev will be over $400.00 if not $450.00 which is steep... Kronolog is for $300.00.
    But I do like the KS lever much more. It should be also a little bit lighter. Somewhere between 450g and 480g.
    Thomson will be coming with their seatpost as well. But it is going to be >600g...
    Hmm...
    KS drop seatpost - LEV - YouTube

  29. #129
    mtbr member
    Reputation: eurospek's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    5,464
    Need to replace the cable on your Kronolog already?

    Pinkbike's got ya cover!

    Tech Tuesday - Crankbrothers Kronolog Cable Replacement - Pinkbike.com
    konahonzo

  30. #130
    mtbr member
    Reputation: kevingp's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    237
    I just bought mine. Waiting for it to arrive now.

  31. #131
    mtbr member
    Reputation: CrozCountry's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    1,345
    I saw this seat post at a shop today, and the bridge between the seat rails is made of plastic. It seems like an independent part that you stick between the rails before you put the seat in the clamp.

    Is this plastic just for holding things in the box, or is it actually used?
    Does it make sense to have plastic there under tight compression from the clamp bolt? Its tiny and thin.
    Do you need to move it every time you move the seat back and forward in the clamp, or is something holding it in place?

    You can see the plastic part between the two red clamps in the photo. In person it looks skinny and fragile.


  32. #132
    some know me as mongo
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    681
    I believe you are mistaken on that piece being plastic.

  33. #133
    mtbr member
    Reputation: CrozCountry's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    1,345
    Quote Originally Posted by sir_crackien View Post
    I believe you are mistaken on that piece being plastic.
    So is there another metal piece in the box? I should have asked the guy in the shop.

  34. #134
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    292
    I have just mounted my Kronolog. The piece in between the saddlerails is plastic and yes you have to use it when mounting the saddle.

  35. #135
    BBW
    BBW is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation: BBW's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    2,183
    Quote Originally Posted by KRob View Post
    Still can't imagine it sealing as well as a simple round tube.
    +1
    why in the world couldn't they make it ROUND? I asure you that the edge is a high friction point that will cause more wear to the seal than if it would be round IMO
    So maybe we have another cool looking POS
    BBW. MS, RD

  36. #136
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    286
    LBS sold two and has already had trouble with both. Setup issues and issues with the mechanical system on the post.

  37. #137
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    4,750
    Quote Originally Posted by jselwyn View Post
    LBS sold two and has already had trouble with both. Setup issues and issues with the mechanical system on the post.
    Please elaborate.

  38. #138
    ...
    Reputation: (Tom)'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    415
    Yeah I was disappointed to find that part of the seat clamp was plastic, especially considering the price. That said, I have about 1/2 dozen rides on mine and it works well and hasn't broken. Set up was a no brainer, checked the air pressure and bolted it on.

  39. #139
    mtbr member
    Reputation: kevingp's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    237
    Wow, I sure hope mine doesn't give me any trouble. Still waiting for it to arrive at the bike shop so he can mail it to me...

  40. #140
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    286
    They didn't say much. Just that there was trouble with the cable and setup one on and a separate issue with the actual mechanism on the second being very finicky. Hopefully they work great. I was hot to get one but didn't want to wait.

  41. #141
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    292
    The cable-issue is very delicate indeed, you should not make any tight turns otherwise the post will keep dropping (the mechanical clamp will not return to it clamp position)...found that out yesterday when mounting my post (you can read this also in the manual). So i would say that is not a malfunction of the post.

  42. #142
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    8
    Hi - I picked up a Kronolog on Tuesday and had it installed within a few hours. A few points:

    1) The cable length comes short. I have a Remedy 9 size 18.5" and I needed to replace the cable right away. I suggest you pick up a cable at the same time you pick up the Kronolog. That being said, install was easy.

    2) The white area on the stanchion gets marked up by the clamping mechanism. Not a big deal, but why the heck did they paint it white??

    3) The spring in the remote is a joke. They should have included a washer for it, as it starts to come through the hole. Also the spring scrapes against the inside of the trigger. This causes both noise and wear (I have flecks of aluminum on my handlebars now). Overall, I am not happy with the trigger design.

    4) The biggest complaint I have is the design of the clamping mechanism. To activate the clamp, the cable pulls on one end of the clamp and the cable housing pushes upwards, squeezing the clamp together. This means that the cable housing moves everytime you use the seat post, several millimeters. The whole point of having the attachment point at the base of the seat was to get rid of cable movement! A few millimeters might not seem like a big deal, but it is enough to cause cable wear on my paint job. Additionally, because of using the cable housing as half of the actuation process, you are required to have a fair amount of play in the trigger. The Joplin's trigger felt far more responsive.

  43. #143
    g3h6o3
    Reputation: PissedOffCil's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    3,707
    Quote Originally Posted by jkaylen View Post
    4) The biggest complaint I have is the design of the clamping mechanism. To activate the clamp, the cable pulls on one end of the clamp and the cable housing pushes upwards, squeezing the clamp together. This means that the cable housing moves everytime you use the seat post, several millimeters. The whole point of having the attachment point at the base of the seat was to get rid of cable movement! A few millimeters might not seem like a big deal, but it is enough to cause cable wear on my paint job. Additionally, because of using the cable housing as half of the actuation process, you are required to have a fair amount of play in the trigger. The Joplin's trigger felt far more responsive.
    This is very well explained in this setup video:

    ++ kronolog, eggbeaters, pumps, cranks, bottom brackets, multi tools : CrankBrothers ++

    If this is the biggest concern about the post, I still think it's a winner. It's good to have some hands-on feedback from real users at last. Keep it coming!
    Check out my SportTracks plugins for some training aid software.

  44. #144
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    1,011
    I just installed mine. Got the spacer installed, it is taped to the instruction sheet. I even cabled up my KS remote, as I am used to the way it feels. The post is super smooth, and works without a hitch so far. If the seat clamp holds up, I think this post is going to be a winner.

  45. #145
    mtbr member
    Reputation: muddywings's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    645
    Quote Originally Posted by jkaylen View Post

    3) The spring in the remote is a joke. They should have included a washer for it, as it starts to come through the hole. Also the spring scrapes against the inside of the trigger. This causes both noise and wear (I have flecks of aluminum on my handlebars now). Overall, I am not happy with the trigger design.

    4) The biggest complaint I have is the design of the clamping mechanism. To activate the clamp, the cable pulls on one end of the clamp and the cable housing pushes upwards, squeezing the clamp together. This means that the cable housing moves everytime you use the seat post, several millimeters. The whole point of having the attachment point at the base of the seat was to get rid of cable movement! A few millimeters might not seem like a big deal, but it is enough to cause cable wear on my paint job. Additionally, because of using the cable housing as half of the actuation process, you are required to have a fair amount of play in the trigger. The Joplin's trigger felt far more responsive.
    Would you foresee any issues with leaving the joplin (or in my case the maverick speed ball r) remote on there and using it? I would prefer to just keep mine as I'm used to using my pointer finger over the top of the trigger vs using my thumb.

  46. #146
    mtbr member
    Reputation: markymark's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    504
    hmmm... was just on the brink of ordering one of these and now the first bad reports are coming in. I'm going to wait a bit. First review in the review section is real bad.

  47. #147
    mtbr member
    Reputation: cerebroside's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    937
    Quote Originally Posted by markymark View Post
    hmmm... was just on the brink of ordering one of these and now the first bad reports are coming in. I'm going to wait a bit. First review in the review section is real bad.
    I'm kind of curious as to how much of that bad review IS actually poor installation. It seems to me that based on how the mechanism works it would be really easy to install it without enough slack in the cable, which would result in the mechanism continuously activating as the bike moves and the post randomly dropping. This is probably exacerbated by the apparently very short cable.

    On the other hand it could be an actual problem, but based on how it works and the other positive reports, the above sounds a lot more likely. From what I hear from the local shops I don't think I'm going to be able to get my hands on one for at least a month, so at least I can wait and let other people work out the kinks.

  48. #148
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jimarin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    501
    Quote Originally Posted by Scotth72 View Post
    I just installed mine. Got the spacer installed, it is taped to the instruction sheet. I even cabled up my KS remote, as I am used to the way it feels. The post is super smooth, and works without a hitch so far. If the seat clamp holds up, I think this post is going to be a winner.
    So it works ok with the ks lever?

  49. #149
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    1,011
    The KS remote works ok so far. It is a bit notchy on initial stroke, I think because the lever arm is shorter than the CB lever.
    I have it set up without the elbow, just a smooth curve of housing from the bar to the frame. I am using quality 4mm shift housing and a quality shift cable for actuation. I will report again after a couple of rides.

  50. #150
    mtbr member
    Reputation: markymark's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    504
    anyone concerned about the cable moving or freeplay in the trigger might want to watch this:

    <iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/Bcs7eh5lK-Y" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>



    Crank Brothers Kronolog Setup - YouTube


    edit: added link, don't know why the embed isn't showing up.


    .
    Last edited by markymark; 04-14-2012 at 05:40 AM.

  51. #151
    mtbr member
    Reputation: kevingp's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    237
    What? I dont see a link.

  52. #152
    mtbr member
    Reputation: cerebroside's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    937
    Quote Originally Posted by markymark View Post
    anyone concerned about the cable moving or freeplay in the trigger might want to watch this:
    ...
    Crank Brothers Kronolog Setup - YouTube
    ...
    .
    Haha, guess I was right then. Sounds like they shot themselves in the foot a bit by including such a short cable.

  53. #153
    mtbr member
    Reputation: kevingp's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    237
    I dont like the fact that the cables housing moves.

    Anyone has installed this on a trance x?

  54. #154
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    196
    I picked up mine two days ago. I walked into my LBS expecting to be on a waiting list to get one. They had one sitting in the display case and I walked out the door with a 10% discount. I installed it in just a few minutes and went for a short ride before I had to go to work. Most of you guys are saying that the cable was too short but I actually had to shorten mine after that first ride. I ride a large Rumblefish and it was just a smidge too long. It works great and is super smooth. I have no complaints. Yes the cable moves a tiny bit but is that really a huge deal for you guys? My only real complaint is how slow the rebound is. I would prefer if it just shoot up at full speed instead of slowing down for the last bit of travel. That is just personal preference though and not a big deal.

    As long as you take the time and set it up correctly with a bit of play in the trigger like the instructions say you should have no problems. I haven't at least. Needless to say, I am a satisfied Kronolog user.

  55. #155
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    292
    The cable was too long for my Mount Vision...

    I used today and it works great, ofcourse i cannot say anything on durability now. The post seemed to drop a few mm and settle than (when in normal ride mode), i guess this has something to do with the used pressure in the post. The range is 50psi to 80psi. Since i am not that light i suppose i have to use 80psi, where i have put in 60psi only. So for my next ride i will add some air.

    On the theme of adjustable seatposts i can say that i'm happy to have one now. So easy to use with remote. Just perfect! But like i said, that goes for all adjustable posts. Not only CB Kronolog.
    Last edited by Betzel; 04-15-2012 at 11:17 PM.

  56. #156
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    397
    I've done three rides on mine now and here are my thoughts:
    1. Cable was too short for my Intense Tracer (large) so like others had to spend an extra $20 on cables (at my rip-off lbs)
    2. Installing the new cable is easy but I can see where people may be going wrong. At the lever if the cable isn't sitting right it'll grind and feel rough. Remove and refit and all is well.
    3. You have to cut the inner cable off just above where it is crimped. Failure to do so and the extra length will touch the top inside of the mechanism cover and prevent the mechanism from engaging the post so it will pop up and stay that way. Easy to remedy.
    4. ISSUE: the seat clamp has come loose twice per ride (3 rides). Even after removing the bolt and loctighting it - it still came loose yesterday. Cleaned the threads last night with isoprope and re-applied loctight so am hoping that does the trick but definitely not as secure as a two bolt (Thomson like) set-up.
    5. The action is smooth when sitting on the seat or applying some pressure to it. However, if the seat is down and there is no weight on it, it take more force on the lever to get the seat top pop up and doesn't feel smooth (at the lever that is). There is obviously a lot of tension on the mechanism which is ballanced somewhat when you're seated making release easier.

    Overall the post is working well but if the seat keeps coming loose I'll be sending it back. The quality seem ok albeit slightly agricultural feeling when compared to a hydraulic post.

  57. #157
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    292
    I agree on your point 5, although i have no issue with it, but you need more force when you want the post to return to normal ride mode.

    I have no issue on the saddle though. Bolted it down very thight. Did you use the 12nm as stated on the post? And did you use the plastic 'thing' in between the rails?

  58. #158
    Supersonic Garfield
    Reputation: Trond's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    554
    If the plastic "thingy" wedged between the seat rails is not doing its job (compresses), the regular posts of CB ships with an aluminum version.

  59. #159
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    397
    Yes I used the plastic bridge. I don't have a torque wrench so I don't know how tight I made it but made it as tight as I thought I could without snapping the bolt. Will see if it stays tight on the next ride.

  60. #160
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    292
    Well, i don't have a torque wrench also, at least not one that goes to 12nm. So i did it also by hand. 12nm is pretty tight if you use a small screwdriver. Maybe you just have a faulty bolt.....

  61. #161
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    8
    I picked up a 25in/lbs to 250in/lbs torque wrench from Sears for about $55 a few months ago and it has been one of the best bike tool investments I have made (repair stand is the top, by far). I used it to tighten the seat clamp bolt and have had no issues after multiple rides. I also use the torque wrench for disassembling and re-greasing my rear triangle. Love it.

    On the Kronolog, after replacing the cable I am having far better performance. I did have an issue one time where I didn't fully engage the lever and the seat made a grinding noise as it lifted up. Won't be doing that again. Overall I am happy with it. I just wish they had included an unattached cable I could've cut to length myself.

  62. #162
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    292
    That is a very good idea! So CB, if you are reading here: do not mount the cable and just deliver a long inner and outer cable with it.

  63. #163
    Dude, got any schwag?
    Reputation: TheSchwagman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    841
    Quote Originally Posted by saturnine View Post
    when is cannondale going to step up and make a dropper post using lefty tech/
    I like my seatpost, not on zee left side, and not on zee right side, but right een zee middle. Und I like zee rubber side down, but sometimes eet is all zee way around.
    Billy

    Speed is sweet, it's like an avenue to
    ... Shredtopia!

  64. #164
    mtbr member
    Reputation: CrozCountry's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    1,345
    Fitted on a Giant Reign size M (23” TT) with original cable, no issues. If anything we could have cut it an inch shorter, but left it the way it is since everything was connected properly out of the box.

    To get some slack on the cable near the post, we did not zip tie the last cable attachment point on the frame (the one that is closest to the seat tube). This gives the cable freedom to move up and down. Took 10 minutes to do.

    Seat had to be tightened again with the plastic piece.
    It seems that the whole point of a stationary cable attachment is missed when the cable still moves and needs to be connected in a way that has slack. The plastic piece between the rails is lame.

    Impression from one ride: Works great on the trail with no issues, other than sloppy feel on the level. No side to side movement, no violent ball busting extension. Goes up and down quickly but not scary quickly.

  65. #165
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    8
    I have an 18.5 Remedy and ran it from left grip across front of bike and then along the underside of the top tube and up to the seat post. The original cable was about 2 inches too short.

  66. #166
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    3
    Guys the trade-in program is true. Since I live local I was able to go right into CrankBrothers headquarters and pick up a new Kronolog in exchange for my old Joplin 4. The price was a measly $150 +tax. I even got to meet the designer of the product. Really cool company with great customer service

    I just installed it on my Trek Remedy 8. Got it done fast without any hiccups. Just make sure to give it 2-3mm of slack on the actuator like the instructions say to prevent any unwanted deployment. So far so good just testing it around my driveway it's already miles better than the Joplin it just replaced. Buttery smooth.

  67. #167
    Faster it.
    Reputation: Raine's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    77
    Picked mine up yesterday, looks really good up close. Went to install it and in out-of-the-box configuration it was about 1 inch too high. They do include a spacer to install to limit the fully extended length, but when it came time to install the spacer you need a special tool to disassemble the seat post! The tool is a Park Tool SPA-2 spanner, about $9 online so I ordered that as well, should arrive tomorrow. However I am a little disappointed that I already spent the $300 for the post and have to buy a separate tool just to take it apart for that spacer thing.

    I think I'll email CB about the trade-in thing since I bought a Joplin 4 a couple months ago, make up some of that $$ back.

  68. #168
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    419
    Quote Originally Posted by RacerDad46 View Post
    Guys the trade-in program is true. Since I live local I was able to go right into CrankBrothers headquarters and pick up a new Kronolog in exchange for my old Joplin 4. The price was a measly $150 +tax. I even got to meet the designer of the product. Really cool company with great customer service

    I just installed it on my Trek Remedy 8. Got it done fast without any hiccups. Just make sure to give it 2-3mm of slack on the actuator like the instructions say to prevent any unwanted deployment. So far so good just testing it around my driveway it's already miles better than the Joplin it just replaced. Buttery smooth.
    I'm tempted to do this... Think I'll be getting ahold of them today, and should have a Kronolog on the way shortly!

  69. #169
    Cars Are Evil
    Reputation: Vermont29er's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    1,123
    Anybody know when/where these will be available? I've seen a few people mention they've bought one but I haven't found one for sale yet.

  70. #170
    Faster it.
    Reputation: Raine's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    77
    Got mine installed and did a test ride just to get the feel for it:

    1. For my Pivot 5.7 the cable length was fine; I did end up swapping it out anyways with Jagwire to match my derailleur cable/brake hoses.

    2. Like others mentioned above, cable installation needed a little tweaking. Since I was switching to Jagwire (thicker cable housing) the housing was tight inside the small plastic cable holder at the bottom of the post. Turns out that to get smooth actuation the cable housing MUST be able to slide through that plastic piece freely, or the bottom lever won't release from the post. All it took was a few seconds with a reamer to open the hole (again it's plastic so no problems with special tools) and the cable housing had ample room to slide.

    3. I do suggest that before you tighten the cable set screw that you A. make sure the spring inside the trigger is flush but not compressed, and B. dial out the tension adjuster on the trigger about 3 1/2 turns before final assembly. That way you can fine tune the cable actuation once you lock the cable in place. I found that you have to get the cable tension in the right "sweet spot" and the post will move up and down easily with the trigger.

    4. The saddle seems to be staying in place (unlike some complaints in this thread) but I'll reserve final comment until I get the bike on the trail. I did clean all of the surfaces (the side metal clamps, the bolt, the top of the seat post) with some isopropyl to remove any grease/oil, so maybe that helped.

    5. On my bike with the seat post all the way inside the seat tube, the saddle was still about 15mm higher than I preferred. Installing the internal spacer is a little time-consuming, but not difficult as long as you have that Park Tool SPA-2 spanner wrench I mentioned in an earlier post. Getting the outside cap off was easy )make sure you compress the seat post to relieve tension); getting the inside cap off took some muscle and some faith since it's threadlocked, but once you break it loose the rest of the job is fine. Just make sure you have a lot of rags around - there's grease everywhere on this thing.

    So far, I like it. I'm coming from a Joplin 4R which served me well, we'll see how the Kronolog holds up this weekend.

    EDIT: added some pics
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Crank Brothers Kronolog Adjustable Seatpost-mtbrpost1.jpg  

    Crank Brothers Kronolog Adjustable Seatpost-mtbrpost2.jpg  


  71. #171
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jimarin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    501
    I got my first ride in today. I'm very happy I got this one. I've owned a Joplin, gravity dropper and last a ks 950r. This one is the best (at least initially). 0 play. It feels like a rigid post when locked. I'm running 80 psi and love the fast return. This post probably is no good for the short. I'm 6'3 on a large frame and only could lower it about an inch. It feels very smooth and precise. The locking mechanism works well. If this thing is durable it will be the one to get. Time will tell.


  72. #172
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    243
    anyone know if crank brothers will be at sea otter this weekend? I wonder if I could just bring my post with me and see if they can do anything there...wishful thinking

  73. #173
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    196
    Before I went out for my 3rd ride on the post yesterday I noticed a bit of play in the post. If I grab the front and back of my saddle and rock it back and for the post will move. It's only a small amount, not enough to notice, but I can post a video if anybody is wanting to see it. Also I am finding the return super slow but I haven't checked the psi since the first ride.

    Also, I am noticing the cable starting to rub through the barrel adjuster on the remote. I have little flakes of aluminum on the bars like somebody else was saying. Not sure what to do about that. All in all though I am satisfied with this post so far.

  74. #174
    mtbr member
    Reputation: socalMX's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    2,275
    If any one is at Sea Otter, you can bring CB your old Joplin and walk away with a new Kronolog for just $150...Too bad im 6 hours south!

  75. #175
    Dirty minded
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    501
    Quote Originally Posted by darnelli View Post
    anyone know if crank brothers will be at sea otter this weekend? I wonder if I could just bring my post with me and see if they can do anything there...wishful thinking
    That'd be helpful, and you could include the slow return action so we are all on the same page.
    Maybe a rep from Crank bros. will respond.

  76. #176
    Dirty minded
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    501
    Quote Originally Posted by jimarin View Post
    I got my first ride in today. I'm very happy I got this one. I've owned a Joplin, gravity dropper and last a ks 950r. This one is the best (at least initially). 0 play. It feels like a rigid post when locked. I'm running 80 psi and love the fast return. This post probably is no good for the short. I'm 6'3 on a large frame and only could lower it about an inch. It feels very smooth and precise. The locking mechanism works well. If this thing is durable it will be the one to get. Time will tell.

    Could you post a video of the posts return action?

  77. #177
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    107
    I started out with ~85psi and a friend with a Reverb thought my return speed was comically fast. Today, I dropped it to 65psi and it slowed way down. It also feels like the lever needs less force to release the locking mechanism which is nice. Given the tiny amount of air they hold (barely a gnats fart of air was released) I imagine the pressure shoots way up when you drop the post (PV = nRT and what not) so I think I'm gonna stick with a lower pressure to not tax the seals too much.

    65 is slower but not so slow that it's unusable.

  78. #178
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    107
    I'll take a video with my camera phone and upload it somewhere, post it here.

  79. #179
    Faster it.
    Reputation: Raine's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    77
    Quote Originally Posted by Anita Handle View Post
    I started out with ~85psi and a friend with a Reverb thought my return speed was comically fast. Today, I dropped it to 65psi and it slowed way down. It also feels like the lever needs less force to release the locking mechanism which is nice. Given the tiny amount of air they hold (barely a gnats fart of air was released) I imagine the pressure shoots way up when you drop the post (PV = nRT and what not) so I think I'm gonna stick with a lower pressure to not tax the seals too much.

    65 is slower but not so slow that it's unusable.
    Seems like 60-70 is the sweet spot for psi, after fine tuning I also have mine at 65psi; I went as ow as 55psi but it wasn't enough to push the seatpost all the way up (it would stop about 3/4" short of full extension) whereas anything above 75psi is dangerous to "the jewels".

    It does say "50-100psi" on the post, I can't imagine who would do 100psi and still want kids in the future

  80. #180
    Faster it.
    Reputation: Raine's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    77
    <iframe width="640" height="360" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/oURZX9owO5Q" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
    Crank Brothers Kronolog Movement - YouTube

    <iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/40842783?title=0&amp;byline=0&amp;portrait=0" width="640" height="360" frameborder="0" webkitAllowFullScreen mozallowfullscreen allowFullScreen></iframe>


    Here's a video (same video, two sources) I made showing the movement of the Kronolog at 85-psi, then at 65-psi. Note that the sound in the video isn't as loud as it seems; there's some echo from the garage, and my bike stand getting tapped by the rear axle. But it's not silent - you have to expect some sound when you hit the trigger because of how the Kronolog uses a two mechanical levers to hold the post. Doesn't bother me at all, in fact on the trails a couple days ago (test ride #1) I liked that I could hear the seat post levers release when I hit the trigger, giving me an audible indication that the seat post did move.
    Last edited by Raine; 04-23-2012 at 04:32 AM.

  81. #181
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    70
    "Private Video" on the VIMEO link can't be watched. No, I don't have a VIMEO account.
    :: Titus FTM :: Santa Cruz TallboyC :: OnOne 456evo2 ::

  82. #182
    Faster it.
    Reputation: Raine's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    77
    Quote Originally Posted by StanSuarez View Post
    "Private Video" on the VIMEO link can't be watched. No, I don't have a VIMEO account.
    Fixed that =)

  83. #183
    mtbr member
    Reputation: markymark's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    504
    thanks raine, great vid, although you could change the caption to read 'at 85psi say goodbye to fathers day' ouch.

    saw this vid come up after yours, a bit more kronolog:
    MVI_0359.MOV - YouTube

    <iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/_UVJXzkgfG8?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

  84. #184
    Faster it.
    Reputation: Raine's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    77
    Quote Originally Posted by markymark View Post
    thanks raine, great vid, although you could change the caption to read 'at 85psi say goodbye to fathers day' ouch.

    saw this vid come up after yours, a bit more kronolog:
    Yeah I wasn't about to do a full-blown review on it, just showing the movement since that seems to be what most are looking for.

    Hey how'd you get the video to show up in your post?

  85. #185
    mtbr member
    Reputation: markymark's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    504
    Quote Originally Posted by Raine View Post
    Yeah I wasn't about to do a full-blown review on it, just showing the movement since that seems to be what most are looking for.

    Hey how'd you get the video to show up in your post?
    your embed vids are showing in your post btw, sometimes you have to refresh when you post up a youtube clip to see it, I have no idea why.

  86. #186
    Faster it.
    Reputation: Raine's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    77
    Quote Originally Posted by markymark View Post
    your embed vids are showing in your post btw, sometimes you have to refresh when you post up a youtube clip to see it, I have no idea why.
    Weird, now they're showing up. Go figure

  87. #187
    Faster it.
    Reputation: Raine's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    77
    BTW if anyone is interested, I've got my Joplin 4R in the classifieds. I was going to do the trade-in program with CB but you have to buy your Kronolog there from them (I pre-ordered mine elsewhere) so I'm not eligible. But if you want to buy my old Joplin 4R and trade-it in yourself, I get rid of the old post, you get a new Kronolog and save about $15.

  88. #188
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    243
    was able to upgrade my post at sea otter from the Joplin, worked out nicely

    unfortunately I didnt bring my bike so I set up myself and I'm on the verge of the post being a bit high, I'll probably need to throw 2-3mm spacer in there (cut down) but I don't have the spa-2 park tool

    anyway to get this spacer installed without using a spa-2 or do I need to go out and buy this ten buck tool for a one time use? any standard house or bike tools able to do the job?

    thanks in advance

  89. #189
    Faster it.
    Reputation: Raine's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    77
    Quote Originally Posted by darnelli View Post
    was able to upgrade my post at sea otter from the Joplin, worked out nicely

    unfortunately I didnt bring my bike so I set up myself and I'm on the verge of the post being a bit high, I'll probably need to throw 2-3mm spacer in there (cut down) but I don't have the spa-2 park tool

    anyway to get this spacer installed without using a spa-2 or do I need to go out and buy this ten buck tool for a one time use? any standard house or bike tools able to do the job?

    thanks in advance
    As far as I have experienced there is no way to get the spacer inside without the SPA-2 or something similar that can grab the two pin holes perfectly. Anything loose will just slip out and/or mess up the holes. If you don't want to spring for the SPA-2, I guess you can visit your local bike shop... but for me I ended up opening the post a few times - once after initial install to put the 20mm spacer in, again after one ride to try an extra 20mm spacer, then a third time to get it just right with a 30mm (combined) spacer. that said, if 2-3mm bothers you, you might be better off spending the $10 so you can get the post height perfect.

  90. #190
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    243
    yea that's what i was thinking, where did you get the extra spacers? thanks for the help

  91. #191
    Faster it.
    Reputation: Raine's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    77
    Quote Originally Posted by darnelli View Post
    yea that's what i was thinking, where did you get the extra spacers? thanks for the help
    I just went to the local hardware store and found some rubber spacers that had the same inner diameter as the one included with the seat post. Make sure you find something with the exact inner diameter - I figured something too tight might cause resistance, while something too loose might move around and cause some noise. They had plastic spacers also, but I tried the rubber instead - 5mm above the Crank Brothers spacer and 5mm below... went with rubber to act like a "cushion" so when the post rose up to the top it wouldn't have that "slam" noise, and it actually works

  92. #192
    mtbr member
    Reputation: kevingp's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    237
    Quote Originally Posted by Raine View Post
    I just went to the local hardware store and found some rubber spacers that had the same inner diameter as the one included with the seat post. Make sure you find something with the exact inner diameter - I figured something too tight might cause resistance, while something too loose might move around and cause some noise. They had plastic spacers also, but I tried the rubber instead - 5mm above the Crank Brothers spacer and 5mm below... went with rubber to act like a "cushion" so when the post rose up to the top it wouldn't have that "slam" noise, and it actually works
    What is your height? I have a kronolog coming by mail and I'm thinking ill need to install the spacer too. Im 5'6" and I have a 2012 trance, the thing with my frame is that i usually need to cut the seat post so i can adjust it to the heights i like. I have to do this because of the screw that holds the upper part of the rear triangle, it is very high and the post will not go all the way down.

  93. #193
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    243
    cool, got a picture of what you used? i'll probably run by the hardware store today to pick some up, thanks for the help!

  94. #194
    Faster it.
    Reputation: Raine's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    77
    Quote Originally Posted by kevingp View Post
    What is your height? I have a kronolog coming by mail and I'm thinking ill need to install the spacer too. Im 5'6" and I have a 2012 trance, the thing with my frame is that i usually need to cut the seat post so i can adjust it to the heights i like. I have to do this because of the screw that holds the upper part of the rear triangle, it is very high and the post will not go all the way down.
    I'm 5'9"-5'10" ... and there's no cutting on the Kronolog. You might have to go with the Giant Contact Switch instead, my brother also has a 2012 Trance X3 and he runs the Contact Switch with no fitment issues... not sure if the Kronolog will work for you, because when the saddle is at its lowest point it still sits about 2" above the seatpost clamp, due to the wedge mechanism being external.

  95. #195
    mtbr member
    Reputation: kevingp's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    237
    How much does it measure from the bottom to the mechanism?

  96. #196
    Faster it.
    Reputation: Raine's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    77
    Quote Originally Posted by kevingp View Post
    How much does it measure from the bottom to the mechanism?
    Took some pics for ya, here's the specs:


    With the saddle all the way down, the measurement from the centerbolt of the saddle mounting and the top of my seat post clamp (Crank Brothers Split QR) is 3.5" exact.


    A closer look, adjusted in Photoshop because I have overhead lights and the saddle was casting a shadow - 3.5" exactly from center bolt to seat clamp.


    Mech measurement from the seat post seal to the top of the seat post clamp = 2.5" exact. Coincidentally, you can see the red Park Tool SPA-2 spanner tool hanging on the shelf of my bike stand in the background.

    Another side note: For those coming from a Joplin 4 (like me), switching to a Kronolog required changes. Where my Joplin seat post was raised up about 1.5" to get my saddle height right, the Kronolog is inserted all the way into the seat post tube AND I had to add a 30mm spacer inside the Kronolog to limit the height of the saddle at full extension so that it was in the same position as my saddle with the Joplin.

    Also, the saddle mounting is not offset to the rear like on the Joplin; I previously had my saddle rails slid all the way forward with the Joplin; for the Kronolog to get the same fore/aft saddle position I had to slide the rails all the way forward.

  97. #197
    mtbr member
    Reputation: kevingp's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    237
    Thanks!
    I guess ill need to add the spacer too.

  98. #198
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    243
    how to remove the metal insert? i've attached a picture of where i'm at right now (instruction step 6)

    it doesn't specify using the red spanner, but i don't see how you can remove it without

    i'm having a hard time with that tool getting grip and twisting it, it's slipping out and scratching the metal surface

    anyone have tips? thanks.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Crank Brothers Kronolog Adjustable Seatpost-photo-1.jpg  


  99. #199
    Faster it.
    Reputation: Raine's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    77
    I see where you're at... the metal insert on your post is still a little sunken in - try this:

    1. First of all, to make things easier zip-tie the lever arms closed (in the mechanism) so that you can slide the seat post open/closed at will.
    2. Thread the black outer cap onto the center "pole" (the blue part in step 4 on the instructions).
    3. Using the black cap as a handle, push it back towards the post housing - basically extending the seat post to full length. If there's resistance, tap the pin in the Schrader valve to release some air.
    4. with the seat post fully extended, SLOWLY pull on the black cap again to pull the internals out towards the bottom of the seat post.

    If you get it just right the silver metal insert should be about 1/4" from the edge of the outer housing. That should give you ample room to get the SPA-2 flush with the silver metal insert for the best leverage. Then use the SPA-2 and twist the metal insert out just like with the black outer cap. I think I mentioned in an earlier post that the threadlock on the silver metal insert is pretty tight - it is! But it will loosen up with the right amount of leverage. Also it would help if you clamped the post on a bike stand so that you can apply the leverage perpendicular to the post, instead of trying to hold the post with one hand while trying to apply leverage to the SPA-2 with the other hand. (I used the bike stand method)

    Although the instructions don't specifically show it, I think they assumed that since the face of the metal insert is the same as the black outer cap with the two spanner holes (step 6), that it's a given to use the SPA-2 tool... plus in step 8 they do show the spanner as required to re-tighten down the silver metal insert.

  100. #200
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    243
    sweet thanks, that helped

    the key was once i took the first cap off, i hit the lever again and pushed down some more (you'll think there isn't anymore to go but it'll move) and let go, that leaves the metal cap in the picture sitting pretty high for the tool, just as raine said

    then i put a zip tie on the spa-2 (great suggestion), and put a pvc pipe on the end (2ft) to use as a torque bar, got it off decently easy after that

    now to dial in what size spacer...

    i went to the hardware store and bought some nylon bushings with a 0.3'' ID, i'll play around with different sizes that way

Page 2 of 6 FirstFirst 123456 LastLast

Members who have read this thread: 2

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •