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Thread: Bikeyoke Revive

  1. #301
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    Quote Originally Posted by bendoe5010 View Post
    I sent an email to them yesterday. I can't speak for the membrane, but there is no lever. You have to buy the remote separately

    Here is their answer:

    "Hi Jean

    Bike Yoke Revive Dropper Post | Jenson USA

    the above Bike Yoke SEATPOST does not come with the remote, sorry.

    here is a link to the Bike Yoke remotes ~ Search | Jenson USA

    Good Luck & Thanks for writing!"
    Their email is misleading. All of the Revive's should come with the Triggy remote. The lever that is inquired about is the reset lever that is an option.

    https://www.bikeyoke.de/en/quick-reset-lever.html

  2. #302
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    yes all revives come with post, cable, housing, anchor, and triggy

    neat plastic burp lever not included.
    "Put your seatbelt back on or get out and sit in the middle of that circle of death." - Johnny Scoot

  3. #303
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    It's not plastic, it's blacked stainless steel.
    Either plastic or aluminum wouldn't last a single revive.

  4. #304
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    Quote Originally Posted by BXCc View Post
    Their email is misleading. All of the Revive's should come with the Triggy remote. The lever that is inquired about is the reset lever that is an option.

    https://www.bikeyoke.de/en/quick-reset-lever.html
    Thanks!

    Misleading is not the word I would use then. Totally wrong email might be more appropriate.

    On my email, I was really talking about the remote, as he was in his reply.

    Oh well, I guess I will give it a try and order it anyway...

    Sorry for the confusion trigger vs lever.

  5. #305
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    The Jenson person was sorely misinformed. You can see the correct answer right in the Q&A section of the very listing he linked!

    I've purchased two Revives from Jenson. Both included the Trigger remote. You should have absolute confidence that you will receive the same.

  6. #306
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    I received my Revive ordered from Jenson earlier this week. It did include the triggy remote and other items mentioned in post #302.

  7. #307
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    Quote Originally Posted by InertiaMan View Post
    The Jenson person was sorely misinformed. You can see the correct answer right in the Q&A section of the very listing he linked!

    I've purchased two Revives from Jenson. Both included the Trigger remote. You should have absolute confidence that you will receive the same.
    I did see the comments as well, and maybe I shouldn't have asked to double check!
    Thanks again. I will order mine this morning then.

  8. #308
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    Quote Originally Posted by PeterG View Post
    Based on my experiense the source of creaking is the clamp claddle, not rail clamps. You can definitely use some grease (e.g. copper one) for the clamp cradle, but the best way for longevity is to use washer cut from thin 0.2 - 0.3mm copper plate. I did so for all my droppers (KS Lev, RF Turbine) and no creaking issues since then (two years). I'm sorry I have no picture of the washer itself, jut of the paper templates on copper plate.
    What an interesting idea - Is it necessary to make the washer so big that the bolts go through it, or would a piece clamped in between the cradle / seatpost head be sufficient?

  9. #309
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    I did the washer with the bolts going through for practical reason, the washer holds well in the place when the bolts are loosen. I have to correct the plate thickness info above - it's 0.1mm (I've checked), after a couple years of use the washer got some cracks on sides from the high pressure, but still works. I would recommend 0.1 mm brass over 0.1mm copper, it should be tougher (in theory, not tested yet), or maybe 0.2mm copper. 0.1 and 0.2mm brass and copper sheets are available on eBay in various sizes.

  10. #310
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    Quote Originally Posted by PeterG View Post
    Based on my experiense the source of creaking is the clamp claddle, not rail clamps. You can definitely use some grease (e.g. copper one) for the clamp cradle, but the best way for longevity is to use washer cut from thin 0.2 - 0.3mm copper plate. I did so for all my droppers (KS Lev, RF Turbine) and no creaking issues since then (two years). I'm sorry I have no picture of the washer itself, jut of the paper templates on copper plate.
    Just to make sure I understand, you put the copper washer between 1 and 2, correct?

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  11. #311
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    Yeah, correct.

  12. #312
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    Is there any way to reduce the travel on these? I'm wondering if a 185 post dropped to 160 would give a greater distance between bushings at full height and help reduce any fore/aft play.

  13. #313
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    Quote Originally Posted by accordnick View Post
    I've sent them an e-mail, will report the results if any. There is no local service center here.
    They replied quickly and I'm posting the whole answer. It may be useful for others:


    I am sorry to hear about the scratch in your upper tube.
    To be honest, we have had a handful of posts, with a similar mark on the
    stanchion. The mark is always exactly located on the front middle of the
    stanchion.
    If the scratch doe not come from dirt contaminated wiper or innner tube,
    then it can only come from the stanchion contacting the inside of the
    lower tube, (which I assume).
    Under load , the stanchion flexes between upper bushing and lower
    bushing and can contact the inner tube under follwing circumstances or a
    combination of those:

    1. The actualy (not virtual) seat tube angle of the bike is quite
    slack, so the force component of your body weight that causes the bend
    of the stanchion is bigger, than with a steep seat tube angle and may
    cause slight contact between stanchion and lower tube and cause this
    mark over time.
    2. The seat collar is clamped too tight (5Nm "dry" should not be
    exceeded) and slightly squeezes the lower tube and reduces the gap
    between lower tube ID and stanchion for earlier contact
    3. The body weight of the rider will also have an effect on the
    bend/flex of the stanchion
    4. The tolerances of the upper/lower bushing sizing are unfortunate

    Please note, that this scratch can not come from the guiding pins, as
    many people think. The pins do not move relatively to the stanchion.
    Please also try to drop the post pushing in the direction of the
    seat-tube. Many customers drop the post just with a downward force,
    which will inevitably cause more wear on the stanchion and bushings.
    Dropping a dropper-post should alway be excecuted pushing in the
    direction of the seat-tube (forward - downward), which will not only
    make the action much smoother, but also reduce the wear.

    Normally this scratch should not affect the function of the post. Please
    double check the torque on your seat collar and keep an eye on the
    scratch (does it stay same, or does it get significantly worse).
    If the scratch becomes worse, please contact me again and we will have a
    look at the post and fix the issue for you - no doubt!

  14. #314
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    Good advice, but the scratch is only going to get worse and I would make sure that they replace your post before the warranty is over.
    I had an identical wear mark on my 200mm 9point8 and they replaced the post under warranty.
    Making shit harder than it needs to be isn't awesome, it's just...harder.

  15. #315
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jessarpi View Post
    Hi Sacki, what do you do if you do spray out a good amount of oil with the air? I do mean a good amount (which is bad).
    As long as the post locks properly and as long you do not have to reset too often, then it will be fine.
    When you check air pressure: Always keep the pump attached, so the oil goes inside the pump and you can pump it back inside.
    Also: Always reset the post and let it rest un upright position for a minute before releasing/checking air pressure air and only release the air, when the post is in upright position.
    If you have lost too much oil, the post wil not lock properly anymore.
    In this case you can fill oil through the air valve with a syringe (remove the valve core first!!!) Then stroke the post manually a few times to suck the oil down into the oil chamber.
    Always just fill in 2cl at a time, so you don´t get too much oil in the post. You will feel, that there is too much oil in the post, when it is too hard to compress towards the end.

    Youl will have to fill
    BikeYoke staff member - www.bikeyoke.com

  16. #316
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    Just installed mine this weekend. Overall, the installation was a breeze--much easier and less finicky than the Easton dropper that it is replacing. Overall, build quality and the feel is excellent! I look forward to using it.

  17. #317
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    Anyone running the 185 yet?

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk
    Marin County, CA

  18. #318
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    Sacki,

    I ordered a revive lever and a rebuild kit.

    you emailed me back, what type of wiper I have, spring or no spring, so you can
    send the right kit

    I emailed you back, no spring.

    then it took me about a day to actually look, and there is a spring, so I made
    a mistake. and emailed you as soon as I could... I have a spring!

    ---------------------------------------
    Just now I got email saying my order is dispatched. can you tell
    me if I am getting the correct, spring wiper ? I know I messed up though...

    my order
    The status of your order 402000 from 13.11.2017 changed.


    thanks
    "Put your seatbelt back on or get out and sit in the middle of that circle of death." - Johnny Scoot

  19. #319
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    NOTE to bikeyoke

    I see you have a list on your website of confirmed posts the Triggy Lever works on...

    I can confirm it works on DVO Garnet internal dropper just fine....

    the dimensions of everything on the Garnet where the cable anchor sits and cable action is nearly identical to Revive, and Triggy works great (and is a good improvement on the Garnet thumb-tab thing)
    "Put your seatbelt back on or get out and sit in the middle of that circle of death." - Johnny Scoot

  20. #320
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    What spare parts do I need to get my remote CrankBrothers highline remote working with BikeYoke Revive?
    https://www.bikeyoke.de/en/seatpost-...-160-30-9.html

    https://www.crankbrothers.com/product/highline-remote

    This remote is free-cable-end actuated, means that "stoppy block" of cable is on the dropper side.
    OK

  21. #321
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    ---------

    And one more question about Revive versions:
    what is the differenve between Revive and Revive 2.0?
    Which version is selling on official site?

    2.0 you can see there https://www.bike-components.de/en/Bi...-mm-o69407499/
    OK

  22. #322
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    Quote Originally Posted by DriverB View Post
    Anyone running the 185 yet?

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk
    Been running it for about a two months. So far so good. I love the extra few cm of drop.

  23. #323
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    Quote Originally Posted by jminus View Post
    Been running it for about a two months. So far so good. I love the extra few cm of drop.
    Nice. I'm debating it vs. the 160 for a Nomad 4 build I'm working on. Based on the RS reverb 170 dimensions (stock on N4 L), I believe they imply I can fit the Revive 185. Al

    A bit more weight too but my original goal was to maximize insertion without going to the collar. Not sure if it's overkill as I'm sure the 160 drop is effictively fine too

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk
    Marin County, CA

  24. #324
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    Quote Originally Posted by DriverB View Post
    Nice. I'm debating it vs. the 160 for a Nomad 4 build I'm working on. Based on the RS reverb 170 dimensions (stock on N4 L), I believe they imply I can fit the Revive 185. Al

    A bit more weight too but my original goal was to maximize insertion without going to the collar. Not sure if it's overkill as I'm sure the 160 drop is effictively fine too

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk
    I was fine with 150 on my previous post, but having the seat even further down turned out to be awesome for jumping. I would run 200mm if they had one

  25. #325
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    Who ordered directly from bikeyoke.com, would you please look at the payment operation - does it come as a "sport goods/sport shop"?
    It's important if I want to get cashback (buying only from shops with "sport" codes of transaction)
    OK

  26. #326
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    MCC code (Merchant category code)
    OK

  27. #327
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    be careful ordering from bikeyoke using paypal to fill in your address

    i ordered via paypal and used paypal address automatic
    got receipt in email, it's being sent to wrong state, but correct zip

    so, 2 things

    1-ordering a service kit apparently there are two kinds but no way to know that on web site, [but they email you and ask what you need before they ship]
    2- do not trust address to be correct if using paypal.

    i'll post what happens but i think i just flushed 21 eu down the drain
    partly my fault i guess but this is first time i paid for something via paypal and the
    address was messed up. i have only one paypal address



    EDIT: Bikeyoke got a hold of me and they said they know
    of this issue where state defaults to bottom of the list
    and my parts are in fact going to the right place.
    Last edited by 127.0.0.1; 4 Weeks Ago at 07:17 AM.
    "Put your seatbelt back on or get out and sit in the middle of that circle of death." - Johnny Scoot

  28. #328
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    Quote Originally Posted by 127.0.0.1 View Post
    i ordered via paypal
    what was the MCC code of transaction?
    OK

  29. #329
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    didn't have one

    Seller infoBikeYoke Germany+49 0176208108 -48http://www.bikeyoke.comsacki@crankingsolutions.com

    it does say bicycles as a category it just doesn't specifically say MCC


    anyhow, first time in 10 years I had a paypal auto-inject address go wrong, which is why I don't check too often. once I click paypal and my address
    gets automatically filled I look at zip and it was correct. state was all sorts
    of wrong, I will likely never get my parts. as I said yeah I goofed but it should
    not autopopulate most of my address and get the state wrong. something is
    broken on their end.


    EDIT: Bikeyoke got a hold of me and they said they know
    of this issue where state defaults to bottom of the list
    and my parts are in fact going to the right place.
    Last edited by 127.0.0.1; 4 Weeks Ago at 07:17 AM.
    "Put your seatbelt back on or get out and sit in the middle of that circle of death." - Johnny Scoot

  30. #330
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    uhmm... in transactions history for your card should be the code for that payment..


    Anyway, if somebody bought from BY please look at MCC. Thanx.
    OK

  31. #331
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    Quote Originally Posted by ka81ua View Post
    uhmm... in transactions history for your card should be the code for that payment..


    Anyway, if somebody bought from BY please look at MCC. Thanx.
    what do you mean card ? I used paypal. there is no card involved.

    paypal transaction history says CategoryBicycles
    "Put your seatbelt back on or get out and sit in the middle of that circle of death." - Johnny Scoot

  32. #332
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    I did look and no code, I also paid with PayPal.
    I checked the receipt at BikeYoke.
    The transaction at Paypal.
    The transaction at my bank.

    No code.

  33. #333
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    Just to clear what i'm talking about, here screenshot of history from app from my bank and the last one (paypal transaction, with red arrow) is "Sporting goods".

    OK

  34. #334
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    I don't see that information on my bank.
    Send an email to BikeYoke and ask them directly.

    Screenshot of the transaction on my bank app:

  35. #335
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aglo View Post
    Send an email to BikeYoke and ask them directly.
    that was the first thing i've done, of course.


    Hi,

    I am not really sure, what you/we need this (MCC code for) information for.
    But I assume sports/sport goods should be appropriate.

    Cheers
    Sacki
    ))


    p.s. anyway, very appreciate all your comments here. Thanks.
    OK

  36. #336
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    Paypal will flag it as bicycles category.
    "Put your seatbelt back on or get out and sit in the middle of that circle of death." - Johnny Scoot

  37. #337
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    Quote Originally Posted by ka81ua View Post
    ---------

    And one more question about Revive versions:
    what is the differenve between Revive and Revive 2.0?
    Which version is selling on official site?

    2.0 you can see there https://www.bike-components.de/en/Bi...-mm-o69407499/
    pretty hard to tell what that site is posting...scrolling through the zoom images
    it shows TWO droppers in the images. one has a silver spring loaded wiper seal one doesn't (you can see it in the images)
    so they are using some sort of stock images on that link.
    "Put your seatbelt back on or get out and sit in the middle of that circle of death." - Johnny Scoot

  38. #338
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    Quote Originally Posted by ka81ua View Post
    that was the first thing i've done, of course.

    p.s. anyway, very appreciate all your comments here. Thanks.

    Ask them if you can buy something from them and cancel it immediately after you receive the PayPal notification with no costs for you or them.
    If yes, buy something like the "Circlip lower tube" at €0.90 from BikeYoke, then cancel it.
    The transaction should appear listed on your bank history.

  39. #339
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aglo View Post
    \
    If yes, buy something like the "Circlip lower tube" at €0.90 from BikeYoke, then cancel it.
    The transaction should appear listed on your bank history.
    don't even know why it haven't come in my mind. Thanks!!
    OK

  40. #340
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    Quote Originally Posted by PeterG View Post
    I did the washer with the bolts going through for practical reason, the washer holds well in the place when the bolts are loosen. I have to correct the plate thickness info above - it's 0.1mm (I've checked), after a couple years of use the washer got some cracks on sides from the high pressure, but still works. I would recommend 0.1 mm brass over 0.1mm copper, it should be tougher (in theory, not tested yet), or maybe 0.2mm copper. 0.1 and 0.2mm brass and copper sheets are available on eBay in various sizes.
    Thanks - .1mm brass sheet ordered from ebay - If this doesnt quiet things down will purchase a new saddle.

  41. #341
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    Could somebody please explaine about that sheet and noises...
    OK

  42. #342
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    Quote Originally Posted by 006_007 View Post
    Thanks - .1mm brass sheet ordered from ebay - If this doesnt quiet things down will purchase a new saddle.
    Had same problem, creaking saddle clamp firstly tried different saddles.
    Later just cleaned carbon paste, and applied toothpaste.
    Four month and it still quiet.

  43. #343
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    Quote Originally Posted by VitaliT View Post
    Had same problem, creaking saddle clamp firstly tried different saddles.
    Later just cleaned carbon paste, and applied toothpaste.
    Four month and it still quiet.
    And a reduced risk of your revive getting a cavity! Wintergreen?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  44. #344
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    Quote Originally Posted by ka81ua View Post
    Could somebody please explaine about that sheet and noises...
    Bikeyoke Revive
    Bikeyoke Revive
    Bikeyoke Revive

  45. #345
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    Quote Originally Posted by PeterG View Post
    Based on my experiense the source of creaking is the clamp claddle, not rail clamps. You can definitely use some grease (e.g. copper one) for the clamp cradle, but the best way for longevity is to use washer cut from thin 0.2 - 0.3mm copper plate. I did so for all my droppers (KS Lev, RF Turbine) and no creaking issues since then (two years). I'm sorry I have no picture of the washer itself, jut of the paper templates on copper plate.
    Aren't those washers made of copper matterial (although it's only 0.3 mm) too thick (strong) to be elastic to fit that place in seatpost?
    OK

  46. #346
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    0.3 mm is too much, I've checked actual sheet thickness and corrected the dimensions in the topic Bikeyoke Revive. 0.1mm brass is OK, I think 0.2mm would be too. The best way is to try to find the optimal thickness vs. fit and wear, that's not that expensive.

  47. #347
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    Got my first ride on my Bike Yoke Revive post today. Great post, I've been on Reverbs for years and the lever action of the Revive is so much nicer and lighter than the push button. Post action is also great. Very smooth and easy to activate. So glad I got this post over the other options.

  48. #348
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    First ride on the Revive the other day, action from the start was spot on. 185mm drop with a low stack height is great as it means you can run it in a lot of frames where a 170mm reverb might not work. During the ride the return action went a bit sluggish, i am not sure if this was temperature or pressure related. I never checked the pressure before I set off but I did check it today and added a bit more. Other than that it was rock solid all ride and the action is very smooth.

  49. #349
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    New to the forum... so I got my first ride in on this post today as well. Super sloppy and cold out here in western PA today but post was rock solid! Bike was covered in frozen slop after but no noticeable affect on the function of the post at all. I gave everything a quick spray off after and all is well. So far I'm highly impressed, I have two 9.8 Fall Line's on my other bikes, but this seems to be a notch above them in terms of build, quality, set up, etc! Also, as for the install, super easy, just gotta make sure you pull your cable tight into the remote to get the sizing. there is a rear feed Triggy too that allows you to size your cable up that way too, which is super nice...

  50. #350
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    After delay on UPS side, mine is getting delivered today. How did you guys applied carbon/friction paste?

    I put it on KS Eten on my aluminum bike before. I put it on entire bottom tube and some inside of seat tube. That was that and I never took it out after that.

    On kids bikes, I put it on and had to take seat post out one time and whole thing was scratched up.

    Do you put friction paste just around inside of clamp where it actually grabs? Whole bottom tube? Go all out and put everywhere?
    2012 S pecialized Hardrock Sport Disc 29er

    2017 SANTA CRUZ Hightower CC X01

  51. #351
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    Quote Originally Posted by HaxEJxuK View Post
    After delay on UPS side, mine is getting delivered today. How did you guys applied carbon/friction paste?

    I put it on KS Eten on my aluminum bike before. I put it on entire bottom tube and some inside of seat tube. That was that and I never took it out after that.

    On kids bikes, I put it on and had to take seat post out one time and whole thing was scratched up.

    Do you put friction paste just around inside of clamp where it actually grabs? Whole bottom tube? Go all out and put everywhere?
    I have mine installed in a carbon frame without any friction paste. I’m a 200 pounder and I have no issues with it slipping or binding with proper-ish torque on the seat collar.


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  52. #352
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    No friction paste in the frame, just a bit of grease. I did apply friction past on the saddle clamp/rail interface after having my ti railed saddle slide back.
    I got some bad ideas in my head.

  53. #353
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    hmmmm, I thought grease was no no for dropper especially for carbon frame? That was clamp doesn't have to be tight which might mess up operation of dropper action.

    Also, directly from BikeYoke Revive manual

    "Apply a suitable friction or anti-seize compound to the
    inside of the seat tube and inserted surface of the
    seatpost! Do not use grease!"
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  54. #354
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    Quote Originally Posted by HaxEJxuK View Post
    hmmmm, I thought grease was no no for dropper especially for carbon frame? That was clamp doesn't have to be tight which might mess up operation of dropper action.

    Also, directly from BikeYoke Revive manual

    "Apply a suitable friction or anti-seize compound to the
    inside of the seat tube and inserted surface of the
    seatpost! Do not use grease!"
    This.

    Isn’t it even written on the post?

  55. #355
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    Quote Originally Posted by ka81ua View Post
    ---------

    And one more question about Revive versions:
    what is the differenve between Revive and Revive 2.0?
    Which version is selling on official site?

    2.0 you can see there https://www.bike-components.de/en/Bi...-mm-o69407499/
    2.0 has a microvalve and comes with the reset lever.

    Microvalve quote from pinkbike:
    "All Revives now come with a patented new feature called “Microvalve”. Microvalve is a small membrane that sits inside the outer oil/air chamber and is there to minimize the chance of air getting inside the inner chamber, where it would cause a springy post. Unlike an IFP, the Microvalve membrane is installed statically and just offers enough resistance to not let air pass it when the post is static; i.e. when you put the post upside down or lay it down for a while. However, when you drop or raise the post, the pressure will easily bend the membrane, so that oil can pass and won´t affect Revive super smooth action. This membrane will effectively reduce the frequency between required resets while keeping the reset procedure and actuation of the post itself as smooth and easy as before."

  56. #356
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    On my aluminum frame I applied copper anti-seize compound and grip paste, probably overkill, but no problem so far .

  57. #357
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    Has anyone received a post recently from Jenson or any of the other US based retailers that was the version with the membrane/microvalve and reset lever?

  58. #358
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    Quote Originally Posted by ac1000 View Post
    Has anyone received a post recently from Jenson or any of the other US based retailers that was the version with the membrane/microvalve and reset lever?
    Got mine the other day from Backcountry. No reset lever, what is the membrane?

  59. #359
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    Quote Originally Posted by ac1000 View Post
    Has anyone received a post recently from Jenson or any of the other US based retailers that was the version with the membrane/microvalve and reset lever?
    how do we tell ?
    tell me, and I'll tell you if my recent Jenson post has one

    no I am not opening it up
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  60. #360
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    I can look it up if one could tell me how to tell. I literally got mine like 2 hours ago.

    Sucks I can't put it on. My Hightower came with Reverb with clamp built in. Since I'm removing it, there's no clamp to mount brake or Revive. Just ordered clamp and waiting game begins again.
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  61. #361
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    Quote Originally Posted by coolatt View Post
    31.6 / 160mm Revive


    I also noticed a very small amount of forward/backward movement of the stanchion at full extension, that decreases as the post is lowered. Anyone else have this? I'd say my 3 year old LEV has some forward/backward movement, but definitely more rotational movement.
    I want to bring this up again because it starting to become noticeable while riding. When climbing technical sections where I am weighting and unweighting the saddle I can feel a slight knock which I feel is the front to back movement.

    Off the bike, the post only seems to be able to rock front to back at full extension, anything lower and it's absent. It's not the lower tube. I can feel with my hand at the wiper it's the upper tube.

  62. #362
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    Quote Originally Posted by HaxEJxuK View Post
    I can look it up if one could tell me how to tell. I literally got mine like 2 hours ago.

    Sucks I can't put it on. My Hightower came with Reverb with clamp built in. Since I'm removing it, there's no clamp to mount brake or Revive. Just ordered clamp and waiting game begins again.
    If you ordered directly from Sacki/BikeYoke they have been shipping the 2.0 since June. If you purchased your post from somewhere else I guess only way of knowing is to ask BikeYoke to check your serial number.

  63. #363
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    anyone order post or parts
    direct from Bikeyoke Germany to US ?
    how long did it take to arrive ?
    "Put your seatbelt back on or get out and sit in the middle of that circle of death." - Johnny Scoot

  64. #364
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    Quote Originally Posted by ac1000 View Post
    Has anyone received a post recently from Jenson or any of the other US based retailers that was the version with the membrane/microvalve and reset lever?
    My guess is that if the retailer doesn't have sell 185s yet they are not selling the 2.0. It appears the 185 was released along with the 2.0 reboot based on the pinkbike article.

    I am intending on the 185 for my N4 build, not sure if I will have to order it from Germany

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  65. #365
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    Quote Originally Posted by HaxEJxuK View Post
    I can look it up if one could tell me how to tell. I literally got mine like 2 hours ago.
    I think if it came with a lever that pops in the reset hex that it would be the 2.0.
    I want the later version because I turn my bike upside every day to take wheels on and off and also transport my bike in my hatchback on its side.
    Sounds like the revised version would be preferred for my specific situation.

  66. #366
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    Quote Originally Posted by ac1000 View Post
    I think if it came with a lever that pops in the reset hex that it would be the 2.0.
    I want the later version because I turn my bike upside every day to take wheels on and off and also transport my bike in my hatchback on its side.
    Sounds like the revised version would be preferred for my specific situation.
    They started to ship with the levers just recently so you could still have a 2.0 even if you did not get the lever. But like you said.... If it came with the lever it should definitely be 2.0.
    Ordered mine in October from BikeYoke and mine came without the lever since it was not ready by then. But it's still 2.0. When the lever was ready and added with the posts the price went up 10 euro.

    Was in contact with BikeYoke to confirm I did have 2.0 and they were nice enough to send me the lever also (free of charge).

  67. #367
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    I ordered a second Revive post from backcountry and it came with the small reset lever and the triggy design is a little different from the other one I have. I can't see any difference in the posts and both work great but it you want to be sure you have the newest one then backcountry has them.

  68. #368
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    Quote Originally Posted by ScottW View Post
    I ordered a second Revive post from backcountry and it came with the small reset lever and the triggy design is a little different from the other one I have. I can't see any difference in the posts and both work great but it you want to be sure you have the newest one then backcountry has them.
    And they are selling the 185 which suggests it's 2.0... Good find must be recent didn't see it a few weeks ago

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  69. #369
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    FYI,

    Sacki replied my question back saying ones with serial number that starts with 1705 and higher are v2. Mine doesn't have lever but starts with 1707 so ones from Jenson are v2 too!
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  70. #370
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    Quote Originally Posted by HaxEJxuK View Post
    FYI,

    Sacki replied my question back saying ones with serial number that starts with 1705 and higher are v2. Mine doesn't have lever but starts with 1707 so ones from Jenson are v2 too!
    Thanks for posting this! Solid answer.

  71. #371
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    Quote Originally Posted by 127.0.0.1 View Post
    anyone order post or parts
    direct from Bikeyoke Germany to US ?
    how long did it take to arrive ?
    update: took about 8 days. not bad
    "Put your seatbelt back on or get out and sit in the middle of that circle of death." - Johnny Scoot

  72. #372
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aglo View Post
    It's not plastic, it's blacked stainless steel.
    Either plastic or aluminum wouldn't last a single revive.
    ok yeah I just got my reset lever

    wow it is tiny. and need some serious finger pressure to activate it.


    installed... the oring finds a spot and hold it tight.
    it is not gonna come out during a ride, no matter how hard i throw down.

    what a sweet little design, so glad I got it.
    "Put your seatbelt back on or get out and sit in the middle of that circle of death." - Johnny Scoot

  73. #373
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    Quote Originally Posted by 127.0.0.1 View Post
    (...)
    what a sweet little design, so glad I got it.
    Couple rides back I had flipped my bike and forgot to check the seatpost for sag, meanwhile while climbing a short steep section I felt I couldn't get full power on my legs, after finished that section I noticed the seatpost was sagging like 1/2in, and while still seated I did a revive, how neat is that. You can bleed your seatpost even while riding, I approve .

  74. #374
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aglo View Post
    Couple rides back I had flipped my bike and forgot to check the seatpost for sag, meanwhile while climbing a short steep section I felt I couldn't get full power on my legs, after finished that section I noticed the seatpost was sagging like 1/2in, and while still seated I did a revive, how neat is that. You can bleed your seatpost even while riding, I approve .
    Hmmm. My bike and I rolled down a bank. My post feels a little short. I need to check it.


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  75. #375
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    I'm looking at the Revive, but very concerned that there appears to be no full service procedure. I've seen the video of the very basic service of essentially just cleaning the dust wiper.

    If I'm going to spend $400, I want the seat to last more than 200 hours. What's the deal, does it really not ever need a full service? Seems unlikely.

  76. #376
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    My understanding is that it's fully user serviceable with cheap standard parts and simple tools. There just isn't a published procedure yet. Parts are available I believe.

    However, I'd expect the hydraulics to go for a very long time before needing any attention.

  77. #377
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    I asked same thing from Sacki before I bought the Revive. He assured me that all parts will be available and the procedure is simple and they will not let me down. Very happy with my post now.

  78. #378
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    After 5 months my 160 was getting a bit sticky. Pulled apart and did a relube, smooth as butter again. Super easy took about 30 mins, just watched the video on their website.

  79. #379
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    Quote Originally Posted by HaxEJxuK View Post
    FYI,

    Sacki replied my question back saying ones with serial number that starts with 1705 and higher are v2. Mine doesn't have lever but starts with 1707 so ones from Jenson are v2 too!
    Just got and installed my 160mm from Jenson.
    It has a serial number that started with 1710 and it came with the little lever.
    Super easy install. I've left the Specialized Command post lever on for now and it works great with it.

  80. #380
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    Wolftooth doesn't list it, does anybody know which version of the Wolf Tooth ReMote works best with the Revive?

  81. #381
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    I've just installed one to run with a Fox Transfer 1x lever. It gives a very light feel.

    I have a light action wolftooth lever for my Thomson but I imagine this will get replaced with a Revive next time it goes wonky. I don't know if the LA will be best for it but it will sit better with my brake levers, pull enough cable and feel very very light.

    Now my cable clamps at both ends, I can recycle all my old mech cables as they're always okay in the middle. Run through brake housing with a bit of oil in makes for a super light feel as well.

  82. #382
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    Quote Originally Posted by VonFalkenhausen View Post
    Wolftooth doesn't list it, does anybody know which version of the Wolf Tooth ReMote works best with the Revive?
    Is there anything wrong with stock remote?
    Recently I had a chance to test the Revive and actuation was so smooth compared to KS Lev with Southpaw. Seatpost itself has outstanding low friction in seals.

  83. #383
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    The Triggy remote is great. Very ergonomic and functional. The only reason I'm using a different lever is that I already have a well functioning, expensive aftermarket lever and it works with the Revive.

    Sacki has clearly considered this is going to be the case which is why you can order the post without a lever.

  84. #384
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    Quote Originally Posted by prosto_mtb View Post
    Is there anything wrong with stock remote?
    Recently I had a chance to test the Revive and actuation was so smooth compared to KS Lev with Southpaw. Seatpost itself has outstanding low friction in seals.
    I'm sure it is a good lever, I just happen to have a ReMote and like it quite a bit. I am considering a Revive for a different bike and want to stick with the ReMote and I may also change versions on the existing ReMote since there was no option when I originally purchased it.

  85. #385
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    Quote Originally Posted by VonFalkenhausen View Post
    I'm sure it is a good lever, I just happen to have a ReMote and like it quite a bit. I am considering a Revive for a different bike and want to stick with the ReMote and I may also change versions on the existing ReMote since there was no option when I originally purchased it.
    I have the original ReMote with my revive and it is an awesome match. The pull is already so light that I don’t see a need for the lighter action ReMote and I would rather have the shorter lever throw.

  86. #386
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    Quote Originally Posted by jminus View Post
    I have the original ReMote with my revive and it is an awesome match. The pull is already so light that I don’t see a need for the lighter action ReMote and I would rather have the shorter lever throw.
    I also have Remote (not light action) with my Revive and it feels perfect. I'd like to see how the stock Triggy feels but I really don'y see any reasons too. Personally would not go out of my way to buy a third party lever but since I had one with my Thomson Covert it replaced, I just left it there.

  87. #387
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    Thanks guys, that is going to work well for me.

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    Quote Originally Posted by arnea View Post
    I asked same thing from Sacki before I bought the Revive. He assured me that all parts will be available and the procedure is simple and they will not let me down. Very happy with my post now.
    Quote Originally Posted by onzadog View Post
    My understanding is that it's fully user serviceable with cheap standard parts and simple tools. There just isn't a published procedure yet. Parts are available I believe.

    However, I'd expect the hydraulics to go for a very long time before needing any attention.
    Thanks for the help. I ordered a 185mm Revive! Looks like I will still have to pull it out of the seat tube a bit, but the slammed height will still be less than my 150mm Reverb. Can't wait to get rid of the Reverb that sinks 21mm when I sit on it. Supposedly I could rebuild it and fix the problem, but not worth it to me anymore.

  89. #389
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    Got a 160mm Revive after my KS Lev Integra 125mm failed me one last time. Easy process to order via Bikeyoke in Germany and it took about a week from buying to it arriving at my house in the UK (the delay was more to do with our side rather than with DeutschePost)
    Not used it yet but felt great and smooth when setting the seat height up last night and the triggy is much better than the KS lever (oh yea it works with that too)
    Think my bike shop lost my reset lever though...I did see it in the box (which looked like an expensive bottle of malt :-) ) Its a tiny thing isn't it? Guess I better order a couple just in case.
    Alex

  90. #390
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    Quote Originally Posted by alexchung View Post
    (...)Its a tiny thing isn't it? Guess I better order a couple just in case.
    Alex
    Yup, its very tiny and black, at least I was expecting something bigger. But it works just fine.

  91. #391
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    I have about 20 rides on the Bikeyoke 160. Awesome. Stanchion Action is better than my Thomson Dropper on other bike. I am coming from Gravity Dropper, so Bikeyoke Revive has a high standard of durability to meet. However, the Gravity Dropper is so outdated, ugly, and has not been re engineered for slacker seat tube angle on modern bikes. I am loving the Revive so far. I want to sell Thomson, and buy a 2nd Revive.

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    Quote Originally Posted by justinnardella View Post
    Thank goodness I’m not alone. The scratch does seem to have gotten worse for me and I can just barely feel it, so I’m going to contact BikeYoke. I will post their response.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Are there any news regarding development of these scratches?

    I'm concerned about durability of this post, since I want to pull the trigger on one after NY and this option is far from cheapest.

    I don't see upper tube replacement part on bikeyoke website, which is sad, since you can get one for KS and RockShox posts.

  93. #393
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    Not everything is listed on the website, but everything is available. It's a much smaller company than the likes of ks, Fox or rockshox.

    You can ask for any part you need and get just that part. You won't have to order an expensive top cap sub assembly like some, just because you need a cheap little bush (yes, I'm looking at you rockshox).

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