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  1. #801
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    Quote Originally Posted by JackP42 View Post
    If the connector is freely spinning and not unthreading, an internal part is broken/damage. There is a square shaft in a square hole that keep the piston from spinning when disconnecting the QD. Your options are send it in, or get new brake/mast assembly.
    So on one of my posts the connector is a bit tight to get out. I have to put a 8mm box wrench on it so I can wiggle it out. Can you thread back in? I would release all pressure from the post and remove the bottom with a cassette tool. This should allow you to back it out hopefully. Just make sure the connector is fully unthreaded first. Try that first before sending it back. The connector threads in to the brake shaft


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  2. #802
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    Hey. BTW donít try a snap ring like the one in first photo below. It gets hung up on the bottom nut. It has to be a style like in the second photo which is harder to find and called a "Constant Section" internal snap/retaining ring. I'm trying to source some just to make it easier to pull the brake when it is needed again.

    I used electrical cleaner from autozone and that worked great to clean the brake. The brake was contaminated with a ton of grease. I can't believe it worked at all.

    Post is as good as new now.




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    Last edited by bikeguy0; 03-06-2018 at 11:49 AM.
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  3. #803
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    How are people getting through to customer service for a ra number!?!? Left a couple messages last fall with no response. Have been running a dvo so i forgot about it over winter. Well a couple weeks a go i decided to try again. So far I have left a total of 6 messages and 2 emails with not one response. My wifes fall line post has never had an issue but mine has been nothing but problems have cleaned the break several times and replaced the seals. Still leaks and slips....worked for the first 2 weeks and that was it.
    Last edited by wvtrailbiker; 03-30-2018 at 08:13 PM. Reason: They solved the problem

  4. #804
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    Quote Originally Posted by wvtrailbiker View Post
    How are people getting through to customer service for a ra number!?!? Left a couple messages last fall with no response. Have been running a dvo so i forgot about it over winter. Well a couple weeks a go i decided to try again. So far I have left a total of 6 messages and 2 emails with not one response. My wifes fall line post has never had an issue but mine has been nothing but problems have cleaned the break several times and replaced the seals. Still leaks and slips....worked for the first 2 weeks and that was it.
    I made contact with them thru the website a couple of weeks ago. They were very responsive and got back to me quickly. We had some back and forth emails and those were quick exchanges as well.

  5. #805
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    My 175mm 9point8 lost air again after a "quick" rebuild, so I pulled it apart and decided to try upgrading the wiper seal at the top of the post.

    My problem seems to be that the grease all leaks out, the X-Wiper goes dry, and then the air starts to seep out. I was hoping that by upgrading the top seal to one with a garter spring I could keep the grease in.

    I ended up buying an AVX shaft seal, 25x33x7mm, from Amazon (more on that later*).

    I used a dremel and a sanding drum to remove the lip at the top of the seal head. There is still about 0.2mm difference in the ID vs. the OD of the seal, so you may want to remove a little more than this, or polish down the rubber on the outside of the seal.

    At 7mm thick the seal sticks out a little, and I opted to keep the metal washer that locks the bushing in place (even though it adds 1mm to the height). Another problem is that the garter spring is on the wrong side of the seal...I opted to put it "outside" instead of "inside" the dropper, since that's what most manufacturers do (and this is a double-lipped seal, so there will be a seal working on the inside too, it just doesn't have a garter spring).

    Anyways, easy project and so far it's fine. Time will tell. I'll update if it helps keep the grease inside. Worst case the difference between a rebuild kit from 9point8 ($53) and a rebuild kit that includes the v2 seal head ($67) is negligible, so you can easily revert.

    Lip ground down:
    9point8 Fall Line Dropper Post. Totally happy with mine!-img_20180326_195849.jpg

    Seal pressed in (I used two boards in a vice):
    9point8 Fall Line Dropper Post. Totally happy with mine!-img_20180326_201530.jpg

    9point8 Fall Line Dropper Post. Totally happy with mine!-img_20180326_201522.jpg


    * You can order the seal I used directly from the manufacturer here: Shaft Oil Seals TC25x33x7 I started a cart and didn't check out, so they emailed me the code "FreeShip" (not sure if there's a minimum) and "giveme5" ($5 off, unknown minimum). That said, there might be better seals out there...I haven't had time to go through SKF's catalog to find a similar spec seal, but I would have preferred that.

  6. #806
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    Quote Originally Posted by Porch View Post
    My 175mm 9point8 lost air again after a "quick" rebuild, so I pulled it apart and decided to try upgrading the wiper seal at the top of the post.

    My problem seems to be that the grease all leaks out, the X-Wiper goes dry, and then the air starts to seep out. I was hoping that by upgrading the top seal to one with a garter spring I could keep the grease in.

    I ended up buying an AVX shaft seal, 25x33x7mm, from Amazon (more on that later*).

    I used a dremel and a sanding drum to remove the lip at the top of the seal head. There is still about 0.2mm difference in the ID vs. the OD of the seal, so you may want to remove a little more than this, or polish down the rubber on the outside of the seal.

    At 7mm thick the seal sticks out a little, and I opted to keep the metal washer that locks the bushing in place (even though it adds 1mm to the height). Another problem is that the garter spring is on the wrong side of the seal...I opted to put it "outside" instead of "inside" the dropper, since that's what most manufacturers do (and this is a double-lipped seal, so there will be a seal working on the inside too, it just doesn't have a garter spring).

    Anyways, easy project and so far it's fine. Time will tell. I'll update if it helps keep the grease inside. Worst case the difference between a rebuild kit from 9point8 ($53) and a rebuild kit that includes the v2 seal head ($67) is negligible, so you can easily revert.

    Lip ground down:
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_20180326_195849.jpg 
Views:	38 
Size:	61.8 KB 
ID:	1189791

    Seal pressed in (I used two boards in a vice):
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_20180326_201530.jpg 
Views:	33 
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ID:	1189792

    Click image for larger version. 

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Views:	32 
Size:	59.3 KB 
ID:	1189793


    * You can order the seal I used directly from the manufacturer here: Shaft Oil Seals TC25x33x7 I started a cart and didn't check out, so they emailed me the code "FreeShip" (not sure if there's a minimum) and "giveme5" ($5 off, unknown minimum). That said, there might be better seals out there...I haven't had time to go through SKF's catalog to find a similar spec seal, but I would have preferred that.
    Nice work, keep us up to date. 9point8 are you out there? Why doesn't your post have a double lipped seal?
    Making shit harder than it needs to be isn't awesome, it's just...harder.

  7. #807
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    Quote Originally Posted by SoCal-Rider View Post
    I made contact with them thru the website a couple of weeks ago. They were very responsive and got back to me quickly. We had some back and forth emails and those were quick exchanges as well.
    Yup same here. Responses were usually same day. Sometimes they took 1-2 days to get back to me. All in all I'd say the CS was pretty solid for a small company.

    I bought a second 9.8 dropper recently so that says something.
    Safe riding,

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  8. #808
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    Quote Originally Posted by Porch View Post
    My 175mm 9point8 lost air again after a "quick" rebuild, so I pulled it apart and decided to try upgrading the wiper seal at the top of the post.

    My problem seems to be that the grease all leaks out, the X-Wiper goes dry, and then the air starts to seep out. I was hoping that by upgrading the top seal to one with a garter spring I could keep the grease in.

    I ended up buying an AVX shaft seal, 25x33x7mm, from Amazon (more on that later*).

    I used a dremel and a sanding drum to remove the lip at the top of the seal head. There is still about 0.2mm difference in the ID vs. the OD of the seal, so you may want to remove a little more than this, or polish down the rubber on the outside of the seal.

    At 7mm thick the seal sticks out a little, and I opted to keep the metal washer that locks the bushing in place (even though it adds 1mm to the height). Another problem is that the garter spring is on the wrong side of the seal...I opted to put it "outside" instead of "inside" the dropper, since that's what most manufacturers do (and this is a double-lipped seal, so there will be a seal working on the inside too, it just doesn't have a garter spring).

    Anyways, easy project and so far it's fine. Time will tell. I'll update if it helps keep the grease inside. Worst case the difference between a rebuild kit from 9point8 ($53) and a rebuild kit that includes the v2 seal head ($67) is negligible, so you can easily revert.

    Lip ground down:
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_20180326_195849.jpg 
Views:	38 
Size:	61.8 KB 
ID:	1189791

    Seal pressed in (I used two boards in a vice):
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_20180326_201530.jpg 
Views:	33 
Size:	96.0 KB 
ID:	1189792

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_20180326_201522.jpg 
Views:	32 
Size:	59.3 KB 
ID:	1189793


    * You can order the seal I used directly from the manufacturer here: Shaft Oil Seals TC25x33x7 I started a cart and didn't check out, so they emailed me the code "FreeShip" (not sure if there's a minimum) and "giveme5" ($5 off, unknown minimum). That said, there might be better seals out there...I haven't had time to go through SKF's catalog to find a similar spec seal, but I would have preferred that.
    Thanks for this, my posts generally hold air, but I have one that will always leak if there are temperature fluctuations, such as a warm day and then a cold night. Anyone else?

  9. #809
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    Quote Originally Posted by monts View Post
    Thanks for this, my posts generally hold air, but I have on that will always leak if there are temperature fluctuations, such as a warm day and then a cold night. Anyone else?
    Mine doesn't hold air more than a day, I need to lube it though

  10. #810
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    I was in the habit of wiping down my dropper stanchion after every ride. I realised that 9.8 doesn't recommend that and it means more frequent relubing. So I've stopped. I use a Mudhugger rear fender so my dropper never gets really dirty even in winter.
    Safe riding,

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  11. #811
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    Quote Originally Posted by Porch View Post
    My 175mm 9point8 lost air again after a "quick" rebuild, so I pulled it apart and decided to try upgrading the wiper seal at the top of the post.

    My problem seems to be that the grease all leaks out, the X-Wiper goes dry, and then the air starts to seep out. I was hoping that by upgrading the top seal to one with a garter spring I could keep the grease in.

    I ended up buying an AVX shaft seal, 25x33x7mm, from Amazon (more on that later*).

    I used a dremel and a sanding drum to remove the lip at the top of the seal head. There is still about 0.2mm difference in the ID vs. the OD of the seal, so you may want to remove a little more than this, or polish down the rubber on the outside of the seal.

    At 7mm thick the seal sticks out a little, and I opted to keep the metal washer that locks the bushing in place (even though it adds 1mm to the height). Another problem is that the garter spring is on the wrong side of the seal...I opted to put it "outside" instead of "inside" the dropper, since that's what most manufacturers do (and this is a double-lipped seal, so there will be a seal working on the inside too, it just doesn't have a garter spring).

    Anyways, easy project and so far it's fine. Time will tell. I'll update if it helps keep the grease inside. Worst case the difference between a rebuild kit from 9point8 ($53) and a rebuild kit that includes the v2 seal head ($67) is negligible, so you can easily revert.

    Lip ground down:
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_20180326_195849.jpg 
Views:	38 
Size:	61.8 KB 
ID:	1189791

    Seal pressed in (I used two boards in a vice):
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_20180326_201530.jpg 
Views:	33 
Size:	96.0 KB 
ID:	1189792

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_20180326_201522.jpg 
Views:	32 
Size:	59.3 KB 
ID:	1189793


    * You can order the seal I used directly from the manufacturer here: Shaft Oil Seals TC25x33x7 I started a cart and didn't check out, so they emailed me the code "FreeShip" (not sure if there's a minimum) and "giveme5" ($5 off, unknown minimum). That said, there might be better seals out there...I haven't had time to go through SKF's catalog to find a similar spec seal, but I would have preferred that.
    This is outstanding work. Please keep us informed how it goes. For what it's worth 9.8 stepped up to the plate for me. I agree 100% the grease dries or slips past their proprietary wiper and then the X ring dries and leaks. I was to the point of having to replace the X ring every 2-3 weeks since I ride every day. I informed them their updates SSR didn't resolve the problem. They wanted me to send the post back again but I was over being without a post for 3 weeks. They sent me a second post so I could send mine back for evaluation.

    This second post has now held air for 3 weeks but I have had to grease it. I am very eager to see how your modification holds.

  12. #812
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    I also bought a couple of x-rings (-214) and a seal head o-ring (32mm x 2mm) from theoringstore.com. I bought 10 o-rings and 4 x-rings for a total of $10/shipped.

    At some point I'll go through and figure out the sizes of all the o-rings in this dropper. So far my bushings have never really developed any slop, so I don't see the point in spending $60+ on the 9point8 rebuild kit.

  13. #813
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    One question: did you abandon the X ring and relying on this as the air seal with this mod or is this more about just an improved wiper and taking a belt and suspenders approach to air retention?

  14. #814
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    Quote Originally Posted by dodger View Post
    One question: did you abandon the X ring and relying on this as the air seal with this mod or is this more about just an improved wiper and taking a belt and suspenders approach to air retention?
    I kept the x-ring. Just hoping to keep the lube in the seatpost! Probably doesn't hurt with the air retention, though.

  15. #815
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    I'll start by saying 9.8's customer service has been great but I send my 200mm fall line back for service due to the post not returning up consistently. I sent it back in November for a service and I've only ridden it 4 times since and I never had a ride where it worked for the whole ride. I'm now debating on selling it and buying a Bike Yoke Revive. I want a post that works and I feel like spending almost $500 should get me a post that at least works for a month before I need to maybe re-lube it. When it works I love the action and the wolf tooth remote is amazing. Any thoughts or ideas. Like I said 9.8 has been good on trying to help me troubleshoot my issues but I hate being without a post now for a few weeks.

  16. #816
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    Quote Originally Posted by buddiesconfusion View Post
    I'll start by saying 9.8's customer service has been great but I send my 200mm fall line back for service due to the post not returning up consistently. I sent it back in November for a service and I've only ridden it 4 times since and I never had a ride where it worked for the whole ride. I'm now debating on selling it and buying a Bike Yoke Revive. I want a post that works and I feel like spending almost $500 should get me a post that at least works for a month before I need to maybe re-lube it. When it works I love the action and the wolf tooth remote is amazing. Any thoughts or ideas. Like I said 9.8 has been good on trying to help me troubleshoot my issues but I hate being without a post now for a few weeks.
    ouch, shipping to 9point8 gotta be adding up
    2017 yeti sb6c turq x01 eagle

  17. #817
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    I've had a few posts from them, they all eventually suffered the seal issue, but I have to hand it to them, at least they were cool and just mailed me some of those SSR kits so I can fix it myself and not be without the post during shipping.

  18. #818
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    Quote Originally Posted by useport80 View Post
    ouch, shipping to 9point8 gotta be adding up
    No hats off to 9.8 they paid shipping both times. But the weather just got nice today and is supposed to good the rest of the week and Iím Stuck without a bike! Makes me wish gravity dropper makes a internal post with 175-200mm of drop.

  19. #819
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    Currently riding my backup Lev Integra.

    My Fall Line (175mm) has lost it's holding power. I suspect that the contamination that I've been regularly cleaning from the brake chamber is seeping from the brake assembly itself. This was my suspicion when my first brake assembly slipped within the first 100 miles. 9p8 sent me a new one (bravo), but that one did the same. After about 6 cleanings, and using my floor pump to air up as suggested, it's now lost it's holding power. I'm guessing that there is not enough hydraulic fluid in the assembly to push the bladder anymore.

    I really like this post and I'm debating purchasing another assembly and giving it one more go. I haven't had any air issues, even after a couple of full maintenance rebuilds.

    I'm curious what others who have been battling contamination issues find.

  20. #820
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hawseman View Post
    Currently riding my backup Lev Integra.

    My Fall Line (175mm) has lost it's holding power. I suspect that the contamination that I've been regularly cleaning from the brake chamber is seeping from the brake assembly itself. This was my suspicion when my first brake assembly slipped within the first 100 miles. 9p8 sent me a new one (bravo), but that one did the same. After about 6 cleanings, and using my floor pump to air up as suggested, it's now lost it's holding power. I'm guessing that there is not enough hydraulic fluid in the assembly to push the bladder anymore.

    I really like this post and I'm debating purchasing another assembly and giving it one more go. I haven't had any air issues, even after a couple of full maintenance rebuilds.

    I'm curious what others who have been battling contamination issues find.
    Can you description the slipping a little more? Mine would always hold in position but would lose its return speed i.e. when I wanted it to return to full extension it would take forever to do it or I would have to physically pull it all the way up.

  21. #821
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    It went up fine, but wouldn't stay up with my weight and hitting obstacles. A good cleaning of the brake would fix it.

  22. #822
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    Why is a floor pump recommended over a shock pump?

  23. #823
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    Quote Originally Posted by pablobell View Post
    Why is a floor pump recommended over a shock pump?
    The pump doesn't matter as long as it's clean. It's common for shock pumps to suck up air chamber lube and drip it into the next thing you hook up. I use my shock pump, but double check it's clean.
    Making shit harder than it needs to be isn't awesome, it's just...harder.

  24. #824
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    Quote Originally Posted by alexbn921 View Post
    The pump doesn't matter as long as it's clean. It's common for shock pumps to suck up air chamber lube and drip it into the next thing you hook up. I use my shock pump, but double check it's clean.
    Can anyone give me any input on the setback seatpost, Like how is the clamp holding up does it feel any different than a regular dropper post. I need a setback sear post for my spot Mayhan this should be the final thing that allows me to dial in this bike! Thanks in advance !

  25. #825
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    My post is leaking at the head. Under the seat clamp area. Not really sure what can be done since this piece does not come off. Has anyone been able to fix this without sending it back?

  26. #826
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    Quote Originally Posted by monts View Post
    My post is leaking at the head. Under the seat clamp area. Not really sure what can be done since this piece does not come off. Has anyone been able to fix this without sending it back?
    Does the flange still align with the graphics on the lower tube, i.e. has the flange started to unthread?
    This should be covered under warranty so contact customer service and they can help you get the post returned and repaired.

  27. #827
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    Quote Originally Posted by JackP42 View Post
    Does the flange still align with the graphics on the lower tube, i.e. has the flange started to unthread?
    This should be covered under warranty so contact customer service and they can help you get the post returned and repaired.
    No it doesn't align, it's slightly off. I guess I'll contact them unless someone chimes in with a cure for the moment, I have a race this weekend.

  28. #828
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    Quote Originally Posted by dgw7000 View Post
    Can anyone give me any input on the setback seatpost, Like how is the clamp holding up does it feel any different than a regular dropper post. I need a setback sear post for my spot Mayhan this should be the final thing that allows me to dial in this bike! Thanks in advance !
    I had a offset seat clamp ordered from the start, so I can't compare with the normal clamp.
    But I'm guessing it's the same, I have no issues with it.
    I needed to offset my seat, as I have a 32inch inseam, but riding a med frame, and I found my seat would always be pushed back past the safe point on the rails.
    Having the offset clamp solved that, and it still works in exactly the same way for easy access to the seatpost valve if needed.
    I have had mine for a year and a half now, and only just starting to get a little air loss which is rectified each or every other ride with a quick top-up.
    I have a v2 nut rebuild kit on the way which I am hoping will fix that.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  29. #829
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rootsboy View Post
    I had a offset seat clamp ordered from the start, so I can't compare with the normal clamp.
    But I'm guessing it's the same, I have no issues with it.
    I needed to offset my seat, as I have a 32inch inseam, but riding a med frame, and I found my seat would always be pushed back past the safe point on the rails.
    Having the offset clamp solved that, and it still works in exactly the same way for easy access to the seatpost valve if needed.
    I have had mine for a year and a half now, and only just starting to get a little air loss which is rectified each or every other ride with a quick top-up.
    I have a v2 nut rebuild kit on the way which I am hoping will fix that.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Thanks for your input!! Just ordered 31.6 150mm with the 25mm offset, this should be the last thing I need to do for proper fit on my Spot Mayham 29er.
    Any one that needs service out of warr. highly recommend Mavericksuspension.com.The Flow Zone Ethan Franklin is a master at Dropper Post and all Front and rear shocks. Great prices and fast turn-a-round. He likes the 9point8 droppers!!

  30. #830
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    OMG, so glad I found this thread! I feel like I've found a support group that understands my suffering with this dropper.

    I'm at 2 years with my Fall-Line post and it's just been a constant annoyance for almost a year now. I've done the V1 to V2 nut conversion, changed seals, and lube on a regular basis, but I still get about 2-3 weeks of trouble free function before the return rate becomes slow, then I usually add a little lube to the upper which buys me another week, then I add air and start over.

    One thing that worries me though is the constant loosening and tightening of the seat clamp bolts has caused a situation where as I'm loosening them, they make a loud cracking type noise when they break loose and produce a slight burning smell. I've tried grease and anti-seize on the threads and under the heads, but it didn't help. I'm worried I'm going to break a bolt. Anyone else experiencing this?

  31. #831
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wareagle View Post
    Anyone else experiencing this?
    Yep, almost stripped the head. I definitely smelled the burn, but grease helped mine.

  32. #832
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wareagle View Post
    OMG, so glad I found this thread! I feel like I've found a support group that understands my suffering with this dropper.

    I'm at 2 years with my Fall-Line post and it's just been a constant annoyance for almost a year now. I've done the V1 to V2 nut conversion, changed seals, and lube on a regular basis, but I still get about 2-3 weeks of trouble free function before the return rate becomes slow, then I usually add a little lube to the upper which buys me another week, then I add air and start over.

    One thing that worries me though is the constant loosening and tightening of the seat clamp bolts has caused a situation where as I'm loosening them, they make a loud cracking type noise when they break loose and produce a slight burning smell. I've tried grease and anti-seize on the threads and under the heads, but it didn't help. I'm worried I'm going to break a bolt. Anyone else experiencing this?
    Welcome to the club, i guess!

    I have the same issue with my bolt. I think it's just oxidation. But that is kinda besides the point because you shouldn't have to be regreasing and refilling every couple weeks.

    I'd suggest at the very least going to theoringstore.com and buying some "-214" x-wipers and trying to replace yours again. I've had mixed luck, sometimes an x-wiper replacement fixes all my issues and sometimes it starts leaking again right away. At least with these $2 wipers it doesn't matter too much.

    So far my AVX shaft seal (see post above) is working great, too.

  33. #833
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    Okay, glad it's not just me. I wonder if this is a thing with titanium bolts. I don't think I have any other Ti bolts on my bike.

  34. #834
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    Quote Originally Posted by Porch View Post
    Welcome to the club, i guess!

    I have the same issue with my bolt. I think it's just oxidation. But that is kinda besides the point because you shouldn't have to be regreasing and refilling every couple weeks.

    I'd suggest at the very least going to theoringstore.com and buying some "-214" x-wipers and trying to replace yours again. I've had mixed luck, sometimes an x-wiper replacement fixes all my issues and sometimes it starts leaking again right away. At least with these $2 wipers it doesn't matter too much.

    So far my AVX shaft seal (see post above) is working great, too.
    I'll check that out. An earlier post mentioned McMaster Carr, but I couldn't find them on there, so I'll check out theoringstore. I saw the AVX mod, but not sure if I'm quite ready for something like that. Maybe if I get another dropper I might try it, as at least I wouldn't have to worry about messing it up (as it does at least sort of function most of the time now).

  35. #835
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    I had the same issue and solved it with some thin stainless washers under the bolt heads

  36. #836
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    Just did a complete wear item rebuild (V1 to V2 nut) on my Fall Line V1 after 2.5 years of service. Not that bad of a job, followed the YouTube video. Took 2 beers

    Couple of points of advice for anyone tackling this themselves:

    I didn't buy the Fall Line brake release tool, instead I went to Home Depot and bought an M7x1.0 - 80mm bolt for $0.97. I used a flat washer + 1/4" thick nut (I think it was 5/16" or 3/8", wide enough that it easily slipped over the shaft of the bolt) as spacers between the bolt head and the Park Tool cassette removal tool.

    Also, when they say use and elastic rubber band to hold the keys in the key pockets, you want that SOB tight. And you want it more on the top half of the keys. That was the hardest part of the rebuild!
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  37. #837
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    Quote Originally Posted by 06HokieMTB View Post
    Just did a complete wear item rebuild (V1 to V2 nut) on my Fall Line V1 after 2.5 years of service. Not that bad of a job, followed the YouTube video. Took 2 beers

    Couple of points of advice for anyone tackling this themselves:

    I didn't buy the Fall Line brake release tool, instead I went to Home Depot and bought an M7x1.0 - 80mm bolt for $0.97. I used a flat washer + 1/4" thick nut (I think it was 5/16" or 3/8", wide enough that it easily slipped over the shaft of the bolt) as spacers between the bolt head and the Park Tool cassette removal tool.

    Also, when they say use and elastic rubber band to hold the keys in the key pockets, you want that SOB tight. And you want it more on the top half of the keys. That was the hardest part of the rebuild!
    I see that 9point8 has a tool for the key install now. I wonder how it works. I agree that this is a pain. The foam ring takes a beating when you push the nut down to hold the top of the keys in place.

  38. #838
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hawseman View Post
    I see that 9point8 has a tool for the key install now. I wonder how it works. I agree that this is a pain. The foam ring takes a beating when you push the nut down to hold the top of the keys in place.
    The tool looks like it might work, there's a video on the site. I'd try anything over the rubber band method. horrible. I have a Bike yoke dropper that takes about 3 seconds to put the keys back in. so simple.

  39. #839
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    Yeah, Kindshock is simpler too. I do think the 9point8 has the least amount of play of all the droppers I have pissed money away on. I think the key-way design is a big part. I can't comment on the Bike Yoke dropper (assuming Revive).

    I've done droppers since the Pricepoint Sette post of the early 2K's (which I think still works). I've seen so much hype on this forum for every new dropper....then comes season 2. We'll see what happens with the Revive. I'm watching that one closely.

  40. #840
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wareagle View Post
    OMG, so glad I found this thread! I feel like I've found a support group that understands my suffering with this dropper.

    I'm at 2 years with my Fall-Line post and it's just been a constant annoyance for almost a year now. I've done the V1 to V2 nut conversion, changed seals, and lube on a regular basis, but I still get about 2-3 weeks of trouble free function before the return rate becomes slow, then I usually add a little lube to the upper which buys me another week, then I add air and start over.

    One thing that worries me though is the constant loosening and tightening of the seat clamp bolts has caused a situation where as I'm loosening them, they make a loud cracking type noise when they break loose and produce a slight burning smell. I've tried grease and anti-seize on the threads and under the heads, but it didn't help. I'm worried I'm going to break a bolt. Anyone else experiencing this?
    I had this problem as well, and did round out the bolt eventually. It was a royal pain in the ass getting it out. And the stock hardware cost $30, probably better to replace with steel. I've used anti-seize and its been fine since.

  41. #841
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    Has anyone experimented with installing a mechanical spring to replace the sir spring? I love so much about this post but the issues it has not holding air are making me start to look at other options. I really like how the post is user serviceable, light, good seat clamp, and the brake has been 100% reliable. I used to have a gravity dropper and that thing was totally bombproof, I can't help but think that if someone (or 9point8) would put in a mechanical spring it would be perfect.

  42. #842
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    Puting mechanical spring inside would make the dropper too heavy and technically is not possible too, because there is brake inside so the stanchion inner surface must be smooth (not possible with operated spring inside).

  43. #843
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    I've noticed I pretty much have to spray some wd40 or similar on a rag on wipe my post down every ride or it will function very and kind of step it's way up rather then smooth, do I just need to pull it apart and re grease?

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

  44. #844
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    Quote Originally Posted by Austin-nc View Post
    I've noticed I pretty much have to spray some wd40 or similar on a rag on wipe my post down every ride or it will function very and kind of step it's way up rather then smooth, do I just need to pull it apart and re grease?

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
    Yes, it will then be good for 2 weeks 😀

  45. #845
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    Quote Originally Posted by monts View Post
    Yes, it will then be good for 2 weeks
    Eh I might just keep oiling it every ride haha, noticed it's worse when it's stores with the seat down it barely comes up. It came on the bike when I bought it used so not as annoying as if I would have bought it myself. Other than that it seems to work great I've added air to it only once. Deff gets a workout on this up and down NC single track

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

  46. #846
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    Quote Originally Posted by PeterG View Post
    Puting mechanical spring inside would make the dropper too heavy and technically is not possible too, because there is brake inside so the stanchion inner surface must be smooth (not possible with operated spring inside).
    It might be possible to fit a spring below the stanchion inside the upper tube. Don't know if there is enough space though

  47. #847
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    Be careful with that. If you overdo it with the oil, it could end up contaminating the brake and cause it to slip. Happened to me and I had to take the post apart and clean it. Best to grease the upper nut with the proper grease

  48. #848
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skooks View Post
    It might be possible to fit a spring below the stanchion inside the upper tube. Don't know if there is enough space though
    There is no space below the stanchion when it's compressed - the reason why it is not possible unless you (and bike frame) accept at least 15 cm longer lower tube .

  49. #849
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    Quote Originally Posted by PeterG View Post
    There is no space below the stanchion when it's compressed - the reason why it is not possible unless you (and bike frame) accept at least 15 cm longer lower tube .
    Can confirm. I did a bunch of measurements to see if I could fit a spring in there and there is absolutely no room.

    The e13 dropper is only $250 new and i'm sure you can catch it on sale. It has a mechanical mechanism (though it's not truly "infinite", if i understand correctly) and uses a return spring instead of air. Their first year had a few issues but supposedly the current model is good. Rebuild kits are $30. That's where I will go once my 9point8 goes beyond repair.

  50. #850
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    I own an Easton 150mm dropper and a Raceface 150mm dropper, both based on 9.8 tech, they both work pretty good overall, no leakdown while riding, lots of hours ridden in the three+ years I've had them, never rebuilt, used often while riding, no issues other than slow return at temps below freezing.

    Then I splurged for a 9.8, what a friggin nightmare! First I got one that was too long, my fault of course, but the return process and shipping cost was astronomical. I get that they are in Canada, but they get $40 just to accept the post back, plus shipping both ways, regardless of whether the post is used or unused. Then it's weeks of waiting.

    So I get the second post and it leaks down fast enough that I have to pump it up during a an hour long ride. I exchanged numerous emails, they seems to struggles with the idea that a new post could have a problem, so I finally got them to accept the post back, with weeks and weeks of downtime. In the meantime I got an E13 post... which was half the price and worked perfectly.

    I sold the replacement post as soon as it arrived at a loss, total cost of this mistake including shipping, return inspection fee, and loss at resale was ~$250. Your mileage may vary.

  51. #851
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    I have an older Fall Line with the V1 nut. I thought my upper stanchion had "spun" but didn't know how that could happen without trashing the keyways. I am assuming since my seat is no longer aligned with the logo on the rear of the post that the head assembly has rotated. I am not getting any loss of performance as the post still works great. Never been rebuilt. I simply rotated the entire seatpost in the seat tube to maintain seat alignment. Any concerns?

  52. #852
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andy13 View Post
    I have an older Fall Line with the V1 nut. I thought my upper stanchion had "spun" but didn't know how that could happen without trashing the keyways. I am assuming since my seat is no longer aligned with the logo on the rear of the post that the head assembly has rotated. I am not getting any loss of performance as the post still works great. Never been rebuilt. I simply rotated the entire seatpost in the seat tube to maintain seat alignment. Any concerns?
    Hey mine did this and it was fine at first. But it took another hit and started leaking air. I had to send it back to 9.8 for repair, you can't do it yourself. Keep an eye on it, but I would not leave this post too tight in the seat clamp to avoid during a crash.

  53. #853
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    I actually got a return phone call from 9point8 support from leaving a phone message. They called me back in less than a day and told me just what "Monts" posted. Keep an eye on it and if it does start leaking then it will need to be returned to them for re-torquing of the top piece. I am assuming that it will eventually start leaking air. Is there a seal between the two pieces or is it just locktited and torqued, anyone tried to do this themselves?
    Overall I am very happy with the performance of the seatpost. Many seasons of hard riding and this is the first issue I've had.
    TIA
    Andy

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