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  1. #701
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    The shop recommended the Fox so that's what I got. Having an extra inch would be nice but the reviews for the Fox are highly favorable. I do admit that my bike has been on the back of cars, as high as 12k, <20 to 100 plus temps, snow and monsoons. At least three of my friends have gotten 9.8s upon my recommendation, but their posts haven't been stressed like my equipment.


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  2. #702
    Anytime. Anywhere.
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    I got some bad ideas in my head.

  3. #703
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    I finally bit the bullet and shipped mine back in for service. The post was no longer holding itself up, even with the cable disconnected from the bottom. I'm debating on selling it and buying a 2018 Fox Transfer.

  4. #704
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    Try the BikeYoke Revive post. As smooth and effortless as a KS LEV with 1,000x more reliability. 10,000x better action than the 9P8. Seriously, last post you'll ever buy.

  5. #705
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    Quote Originally Posted by jm2e View Post
    Try the BikeYoke Revive post. As smooth and effortless as a KS LEV with 1,000x more reliability. 10,000x better action than the 9P8. Seriously, last post you'll ever buy.
    Pretty bold statement regarding reliability considering the post is less than a season old. I feel we have lowered this bar a bit too much.

    Quote Originally Posted by WI-XC View Post
    I finally bit the bullet and shipped mine back in for service. The post was no longer holding itself up, even with the cable disconnected from the bottom. I'm debating on selling it and buying a 2018 Fox Transfer.
    The Fall Line has an issue with moisture getting into the brake compartment, which reduces the brake effectiveness. Varying dew points seem to accelerate this issue. Post #688 in this thread can have your brake holding like new again. Watch the 9point8 video on adding spacers. Once the lock ring is released from the bottom of the post, the brake assembly can be yanked right out. You want to be sure brake and surface is cleaned and very dry before reassembly.
    It's difficult to tell, but I assume the contamination is from moisture in the air of the shock pump (air dryer? nitrogen?). It does seem to have an oily feel, though. It may also be contamination from any grease from the bottom of the post working in. This process is part of my regular maintenance now and it does help. I do cuss trying to get the lock ring back in place. Those do-it-yourself videos always make it look easy - the beauty of post-process, video editing.

  6. #706
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    Well my post is leaking air. Post is 9 months old, but was serviced under warranty 4 months ago. Sucks that the shipping is more than the seals.

  7. #707
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hawseman View Post
    Pretty bold statement regarding reliability considering the post is less than a season old. I feel we have lowered this bar a bit too much.



    The Fall Line has an issue with moisture getting into the brake compartment, which reduces the brake effectiveness. Varying dew points seem to accelerate this issue. Post #688 in this thread can have your brake holding like new again. Watch the 9point8 video on adding spacers. Once the lock ring is released from the bottom of the post, the brake assembly can be yanked right out. You want to be sure brake and surface is cleaned and very dry before reassembly.
    It's difficult to tell, but I assume the contamination is from moisture in the air of the shock pump (air dryer? nitrogen?). It does seem to have an oily feel, though. It may also be contamination from any grease from the bottom of the post working in. This process is part of my regular maintenance now and it does help. I do cuss trying to get the lock ring back in place. Those do-it-yourself videos always make it look easy - the beauty of post-process, video editing.
    I just had this issue with my gf's fall line post. I emailed 9point 8 and they sent over a brake tool and a replacement brake the next day at no charge. I replaced it my self and It works great now. Also if you have the old style lever spend the extra $ and get your self the wolftooth lever. it makes set up was easier.

    Quote Originally Posted by alexbn921 View Post
    Well my post is leaking air. Post is 9 months old, but was serviced under warranty 4 months ago. Sucks that the shipping is more than the seals.
    I also have a fall line on my bike and it is having this issue and I'm going to disassemble and see if a seal is just not seated well, if not I will see if 9point8 will send over a new seal kit.

    even though I have had issues with both of these seat posts the level of customer service I have received has been fantastic so I will purchase another one when I get another bike.

  8. #708
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    Well, another season in the bag and all 3 of my 9point8s were hassle free again, as well as the other 3 owned by shop employees. I don't think any of them got more than a wipe down and regrease.
    The few that customers brought in complaining of slow return all just needed to be cleaned, greased, and aired up to 20psi. None of them came back. Meanwhile, we've averaged 2-3 Reverb rebuilds a week this summer. I wish Santa Cruz would spec the 9point8 instead.

    As a bonus here's a pic of a sub 20lb bike with a 5" 9point8. This bike ROCKS at covering high alpine miles.
    9point8 Fall Line Dropper Post. Totally happy with mine!-20170621_153345.jpg
    Keep the Country country.

  9. #709
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    My fall line seems to require a lot of force on the lever to actuate it and I've broken 2 cables this year. Anyone else have this problem?

  10. #710
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    Regarding the cable requiring lots of force, a few thoughts. Did you replace the housing when you replaced the cable? Is the cable getting bent going through your frame? My trigger requires more force than my arthritic thumb liked. I was able to attach a piece of aluminum to the level extending it one inch. With that it no longer required much force. But that does not solve the cable braking problem. Doubt it is the post at fault.

  11. #711
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    The wolf remote will fix a lot of your problems. The stock lever is too short. Also get some shimano sp41 housing and a good cable. It will be butter smoth.

  12. #712
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    Had that same resistance issue. Compared it to one of my other bikes with a LEV, even rigged up a luggage scale. 9P8 was 2-3x more force. For my arthritic hands that's a no-go. For mrs jm2e, it meant lifting her palm off the grip to pry harder. No-go. They recommended buying the Race Face lever which is apparently way smoother. At $60/lever, that was a no-go.
    Went with the BikeYoke Revive post instead. It's been awesome!

  13. #713
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    Quote Originally Posted by gibsonlespaulspecial View Post
    My fall line seems to require a lot of force on the lever to actuate it and I've broken 2 cables this year. Anyone else have this problem?
    If u are using the 2 pinch bolt method to secure the cable you need to be sure the two tiny allen bolts are flush completely. Any binding here will cause your symptoms. Its happened to me.

    The new style digit reverses cable, much easier to install/setup. Eliminates this possible issue.

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  14. #714
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    Quote Originally Posted by gibsonlespaulspecial View Post
    My fall line seems to require a lot of force on the lever to actuate it and I've broken 2 cables this year. Anyone else have this problem?
    I had the same problems, high lever force and broken cables. My solution was to modify an old shift lever. Works so much better! The activation force is much lower and the cable runs straight along the bar, so should not break as often. The best part was it cost me nothing. Very happy with the
    9.8 post.

  15. #715
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    No doubt I'd like to get the digit or wolf tooth remote but at $60 I'll probably just re-install another $4 cable instead.

  16. #716
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    I have the Raceface remote on one of my bikes and slightly prefer it to the 9point8 remotes on my other bikes. It's heavier though. If you have a front shifter or my Scott's shock remote you gotta use the 9point8 remote. In that case inspect and/or replace the cable twice a year.

  17. #717
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    So I took another look at my 1x remote (not the digit remote) and it's pretty clear what the problem is. As the lever gets pushed in and pulls on the cable, it starts to bend the cable right as it exits the lever. By the time the lever is pushed all the way in, the cable is bent pretty severely, probably 60 degrees. That will surely fatigue and eventually break the cable. Nobody else has this kind of problem?

  18. #718
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    Quote Originally Posted by gibsonlespaulspecial View Post
    By the time the lever is pushed all the way in, the cable is bent pretty severely, probably 60 degrees.
    Actually with my new $5 cable re-installed the lever's range of motion is less, so the bend at the end of the cable is more like 30 degrees. I contacted 9point8 and the admitted it's a bit of a design flaw. I'm really surprised they continue to sell this lever at this high-end price point.

  19. #719
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    Quote Originally Posted by gibsonlespaulspecial View Post
    My fall line seems to require a lot of force on the lever to actuate it and I've broken 2 cables this year. Anyone else have this problem?

    Yes, I break one cable every season out of the blue, and it can screw you on a ride if you don't have another on hand to fix it.

    Solution: Pay the $60 and get a wolf tooth. My post now functions way better overall and a cable change takes two seconds. I don't know why these posts would not just come with the wolf tooth (or the one that 9.8 makes, which is the same as the wolf tooth).

  20. #720
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    My Fall Line is 2 years old now. Works great. It's been ridden on at least 3 bikes in that time. I've had to lubricate the foam ring twice (maybe 3 times?). I've always reset the air pressure when doing the foam ring service.

    Quote Originally Posted by monts View Post
    Yes, I break one cable every season out of the blue, and it can screw you on a ride if you don't have another on hand to fix it.

    Solution: Pay the $60 and get a wolf tooth. My post now functions way better overall and a cable change takes two seconds. I don't know why these posts would not just come with the wolf tooth (or the one that 9.8 makes, which is the same as the wolf tooth).
    I converted an old SRAM X9 front shifter (opened it up and ground the teeth off the indexing wheel with a hand file) to be my dropper lever. Works great and I love the ergonomics!
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  21. #721
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    So after 2 seasons, my post developed a slow air leak coming from the seal head area (the threaded nut). I was going to rebuild all of it, but looked on the 9 point 8 site and they now have a quick seal kit for $11. It's intended for posts that are leaking air in that area. Super easy to install. I did mine last night in about 10 minutes and post is back to normal. Less time and effort involved in tearing the whole post apart and trying to fit those keys back in.

    Here is the kit:
    https://www.9point8.ca/index.php?rou...product_id=170

  22. #722
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    Iíve had 2 posts, one for over a year and the other for two. Both working great, no problems. (Both V1 seal nut).

    I got Fall Line for my wife and itís leaking at the main seal after very little use. Bummer - but 9point8 has a seal kit on the way. They offered to do the work, but sending it back and waiting for itís return is way more hassle than just doing the seals.
    --Reamer

  23. #723
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    I've had my 200 for over a year now. I ride everyday. When's it's good it's amazing but I'm now experiencing my third failure and ready to call it quits with this thing.

    1) Brake failure after a few months - they sent me a new post

    2) X seal failure after a few more months. I was replacing X rings every couple weeks and would still find air leakage with a soap bubble test. They sent me a new post and said they were examining the failure. They never would tell me what was wrong - just that it was a complex issue. Even with a new X ring and perfect upper tube air would leak past.

    3) Replacement post has been good for about 2 months and now here we go again with air leakage past the X ring.

    If it weren't the only 200 game in town I'd be so over it. Real shame cause the clamp mechanism is the best in class by far. Just wish they would use a spring instead of a pneumatic system. Ughhh!!!!!!

  24. #724
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    I had a 175 that was leaking and tried to get away with only changing the x ring, but it didn't stop until I rebuilt the post. Based on where it was coming from, it had to be the big red seal. Unfortunately you have to tear the whole post apart to replace that one! But after one rebuild (2 seasons) no problems. However, I grabbed a bike yoke revive recently for my hard tail, super nice! The action blows 9.8 away!

  25. #725
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    Quote Originally Posted by monts View Post
    I had a 175 that was leaking and tried to get away with only changing the x ring, but it didn't stop until I rebuilt the post. Based on where it was coming from, it had to be the big red seal. Unfortunately you have to tear the whole post apart to replace that one! But after one rebuild (2 seasons) no problems. However, I grabbed a bike yoke revive recently for my hard tail, super nice! The action blows 9.8 away!
    The big red seal is supposed to be a dust wiper only. The X ring is the air seal. But yeah, soap bubble test confirms air is leaking past the X ring and subsequently out the big red seal. 9.8 claims they have a new fix but I'm getting tired of being a beta tester. Post is awesome when it works but 3 failures in 1 year for what is billed as one of the most reliable posts is just not cutting it.

    Wish Revive was available in 200.

  26. #726
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    I find that dusty conditions really slow the post down to an unacceptable speed. I've checked on pressure, and there is no air loss. Speeds back up again when I clean the upper tube. Anybody else notice this? I've seen it on the v1 and v2.

  27. #727
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    Quote Originally Posted by half_man_half_scab View Post
    I find that dusty conditions really slow the post down to an unacceptable speed. I've checked on pressure, and there is no air loss. Speeds back up again when I clean the upper tube. Anybody else notice this? I've seen it on the v1 and v2.
    Ha! For mine muddy conditions will do exactly what you are describing, I then have to wipe and put the pl whatever # grease on it and it will work again, needless to say these posts are kind of inconsistent, bike yoke I just get on and ride, any or all conditions work no fails, they make a 185mm

  28. #728
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    Quote Originally Posted by dodger View Post
    The big red seal is supposed to be a dust wiper only. The X ring is the air seal. But yeah, soap bubble test confirms air is leaking past the X ring and subsequently out the big red seal. 9.8 claims they have a new fix but I'm getting tired of being a beta tester. Post is awesome when it works but 3 failures in 1 year for what is billed as one of the most reliable posts is just not cutting it.

    Wish Revive was available in 200.
    FYI - 9.8 says they have a new permanent fix for this issue. Gave me the option of sending it back or sending me parts. I chose parts so I'm not down for 2 weeks again. The post is easy enough to rebuild outside getting the brass guides reinserted...that's a real PITA.

    We will see how good this new improved solution is. Having a hard time imagining what they changed on the X ring. I've been a huge fan of this post and the 200 availability. I wrote of the first 2 incidents as isolated but now I'm definitely seeing design flaws. If I didn't need the 200 I'd be over the 185 Revive like white on rice. Good lord why can't somebody make a reliable post?!

  29. #729
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    Quote Originally Posted by dodger View Post
    I've had my 200 for over a year now. I ride everyday. When's it's good it's amazing but I'm now experiencing my third failure and ready to call it quits with this thing.

    1) Brake failure after a few months - they sent me a new post

    2) X seal failure after a few more months. I was replacing X rings every couple weeks and would still find air leakage with a soap bubble test. They sent me a new post and said they were examining the failure. They never would tell me what was wrong - just that it was a complex issue. Even with a new X ring and perfect upper tube air would leak past.

    3) Replacement post has been good for about 2 months and now here we go again with air leakage past the X ring.

    If it weren't the only 200 game in town I'd be so over it. Real shame cause the clamp mechanism is the best in class by far. Just wish they would use a spring instead of a pneumatic system. Ughhh!!!!!!
    I've had a similar experience, but I wish I could say I've gotten months of use between failures. I've also had 2 posts get scored by the keyways. I give up, back to trusty ks.

    I really want to love the drop line. The seat clamp is the best in the business, but it doesn't matter if the post doesn't work.

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  30. #730
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    I forgot my first failure was accompanied by keyway score too. Obviously these posts are not as bulletproof as we had originally hoped.

  31. #731
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    put me down for keyway scores too! however, I have a KS LEV that did that as well... damn dropper posts!!! can't live with em' can't live without em'

  32. #732
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    Quote Originally Posted by dodger View Post
    FYI - 9.8 says they have a new permanent fix for this issue. Gave me the option of sending it back or sending me parts. I chose parts so I'm not down for 2 weeks again. The post is easy enough to rebuild outside getting the brass guides reinserted...that's a real PITA.

    We will see how good this new improved solution is. Having a hard time imagining what they changed on the X ring. I've been a huge fan of this post and the 200 availability. I wrote of the first 2 incidents as isolated but now I'm definitely seeing design flaws. If I didn't need the 200 I'd be over the 185 Revive like white on rice. Good lord why can't somebody make a reliable post?!
    I'm interested in this fix and what it involves. Can you update this forum?

    I love this post and the concept. It's easy to maintain, but it seems that the 175 & 200mm are (more) susceptible to air leaks and brake assembly issues. Lengthening out the top nut service intervals would be a big plus. At least now they offer a quick seal kit, so I'm not dropping $50+ bucks for a rebuild kit. I do have enough P10L to open my own shop now.

  33. #733
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    I had a keyway score too on my 200mm. I do like my post but it seems like I have to lube it after every wet ride. If I wipe the post clean it will barley slide. I can lube the sanction with P10L it works again but not as good as pulling the top cap and adding it to the inside.

    I have had an air leak too threw the main seal and ended up forcing P10L threw the seal head to get it to seal.

    I don't understand why they don't have directional lipped seals that completely wipe the sanctions clean and keep dirt out like a fork or other droppers. That much lube shouldn't leak threw the seals and you shouldn't have to keep a decent coating of lube on the exposed sanctions.

    I do like that it's easy to service the post at home. The seat clamp is the best around and it's a good thing as I have to remove the seat at least once a month to add lube to the post. The brake design locks the post in position up and down which I love.

    Shipping from Canada is more than the seals/small parts.
    Making shit harder than it needs to be isn't awesome, it's just...harder.

  34. #734
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    You guys experiencing air loss:
    What pressure are you pumping to and what pressure is it dropping to?
    Keep the Country country.

  35. #735
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    I had to send two posts back and my buddy has to send his back because of air loss. Itís a shame because I like the post and I like supporting a North American start up. I have one post remaining which I may put on a SS. I have a Bikeyoke 185 on my main bike and a Transfer on my other bike. The finish and action of the Bikeyoke is nice and so far itís been reliable with about two months of use. Obviously too soon to judge reliability.


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  36. #736
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lelandjt View Post
    You guys experiencing air loss:
    What pressure are you pumping to and what pressure is it dropping to?
    I find about 25psi sufficient for a fast return with thunk top out with properly greased post. When the X ring goes bad it starts dropping slowly. At first 25 psi may last a few days before the post slows to an unacceptable speed. Putting the pump on it usually shows a pressure of around 15-20 psi then.

    Curious to see what new improved 'fix' they have beyond the X ring. I'll post up when it arrives.

  37. #737
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lelandjt View Post
    You guys experiencing air loss:
    What pressure are you pumping to and what pressure is it dropping to?
    22-23PSI to lower teens. It's fairly gradual in my case.

  38. #738
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    25 to 30. 30 is too much with a fresh lube but is needed after a couple rides.
    Making shit harder than it needs to be isn't awesome, it's just...harder.

  39. #739
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    what the hell is up with 'keyway scoring'?? i have a fine scratch about an inch long on my 200 at the front of the post. i know for sure it's not from anything i've done, but i don't understand it.

  40. #740
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    Wearing of the anodizing on the centerline of the front of the post is keyway scoring. It starts to show at the base of the post at full extension. It will only get worse over time and will affect the x ring seal so air will start to leak.
    Making shit harder than it needs to be isn't awesome, it's just...harder.

  41. #741
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    Quote Originally Posted by cunningstunts View Post
    what the hell is up with 'keyway scoring'?? i have a fine scratch about an inch long on my 200 at the front of the post. i know for sure it's not from anything i've done, but i don't understand it.
    I'll go out on a limb and guess they told you they've never seen it before? Obviously they're on a learning curve. The design holds a lot of promise but isn't bombproof yet. The 200 has more bending load than the shorter strokes. I don't think they've solved for that yet.

  42. #742
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    you guys are freaking me out here. i just saw it a couple of days ago and haven't communicated it to them yet. i love this dam post, it better not fail me, i'm expecting at least 5 solid years outta this thing! (on year 5 of my KS Lev, one home rebuild, one internal cleaning, year round use on primary bike)

  43. #743
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    Quote Originally Posted by alexbn921 View Post
    Wearing of the anodizing on the centerline of the front of the post is keyway scoring...
    Not necessarily, almost unlikely. Posted by manufacturer on another dropper forum: upper stanchion bends under the load and contacts inner surface of the lower tube, which scratches it, especially on longer droppers.

  44. #744
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    So with my third failure (second air leak thru the X ring) I got to thinking about the whole X ring design. I've seen X rings in use on Moto chains but really nowhere else and certainly not in a pressure application.

    I can practically set my calendar by the frequency of X ring failure on these things...every 2-3 months of daily riding. It's flawless until...it's not. The last time new X rings would still leak after a few weeks.

    So why is it that 9.8 still uses an X ring and separate wiper? I asked myself what others use for a reciprocating dynamic shaft seal. Look at any fork or any other dropper post...they all use a lip seal. And many of those hold far greater pressures than the measly 25 psi the Fallline needs to hold.

    My rebuild kit arrives Wednesday from 9.8. They told me it was an updated design but that's all they would say. If it's just an iteration of the X ring I'm going to try to find a lip seal that will fit the post/nut dimensions to replace the X ring and wiper. I figure most of the dropper have a similar post (stanchion) diameter. The challenge may be if the ID of the nut is big enough for a lip seal.

    I love this post when it works flawlessly for 2 months. I pull my friggin hair out when it starts losing air every 2 months.

  45. #745
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    Quote Originally Posted by dodger View Post
    So with my third failure (second air leak thru the X ring) I got to thinking about the whole X ring design. I've seen X rings in use on Moto chains but really nowhere else and certainly not in a pressure application.

    I can practically set my calendar by the frequency of X ring failure on these things...every 2-3 months of daily riding. It's flawless until...it's not. The last time new X rings would still leak after a few weeks.

    So why is it that 9.8 still uses an X ring and separate wiper? I asked myself what others use for a reciprocating dynamic shaft seal. Look at any fork or any other dropper post...they all use a lip seal. And many of those hold far greater pressures than the measly 25 psi the Fallline needs to hold.

    My rebuild kit arrives Wednesday from 9.8. They told me it was an updated design but that's all they would say. If it's just an iteration of the X ring I'm going to try to find a lip seal that will fit the post/nut dimensions to replace the X ring and wiper. I figure most of the dropper have a similar post (stanchion) diameter. The challenge may be if the ID of the nut is big enough for a lip seal.

    I love this post when it works flawlessly for 2 months. I pull my friggin hair out when it starts losing air every 2 months.
    I just rebuilt a 175mm the other day, I did not notice anything that was updated in my kit, it was definitely the same X Ring. If they have updated something, why would it not be available on the site? Can you post up some pics before you install it? I'd like to see what the difference is.

  46. #746
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    I'll take pics and document any updated process. They told me they didn't even have a video for it yet. They did say it required a full rebuild whereas you can do the X ring without rebuilding by just sliding the X ring over the lower tube.

  47. #747
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    As a counter point to all the problems people are posting here, I have been running my 150mm Fall line for 3 years with no problem. I have greased the top nut a few times and replaced the cable twice before switching to a hacked shift lever, which is far better than the stock remote. Love this post.

  48. #748
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skooks View Post
    As a counter point to all the problems people are posting here, I have been running my 150mm Fall line for 3 years with no problem. I have greased the top nut a few times and replaced the cable twice before switching to a hacked shift lever, which is far better than the stock remote. Love this post.
    The issues seam more prevalent on the longer travel posts. I don't understand why...

    There's greater translation so conceivably faster wear.

    The longer stroke might equate to greater pressure build up at full drop (though the volume should be more to begin with so maybe not).

    Greater bending forces but that should only impact the bushing and keyway wear.

    Frustrated by what is otherwise a top notch product hamstrung by a cheesy air seal.

  49. #749
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    New seal support ring

    9point8 Fall Line Dropper Post. Totally happy with mine!-img_1213-1-.jpg

    So this is the redesigned part. It's the foam holder ring. Obviously they know they have an issue if they're making design changes. I presume the cut outs are too keep the X ring lubricated better/longer.

    Bear in mind my bike and post see daily use so the interval of service will be proportional to someone that rides 1 or 2x a week.. There's no visible degradation to the X ring after 2 to 3 months but sure enough it starts leaking. I installed a new X ring and this new foam holder and all is fine for now.

    A couple tips for ya'll:

    1. The X rings are available in bulk from McMaster Carr for dirt cheap. I believe it's a -214 if memory serves. Pretty sure 25 were under $10

    2. On reinstalling the post/keys. The critical part is a very sturdy thick rubber band wrapped over the tops of the keys very tight. My first reinstall took probably 1/2 hr just in that step with lots of cussing. This time was maybe 5 minutes.

  50. #750
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    Thanks for posting, dodger. I was not expecting that. I'm skeptical, but looking forward to future updates. I'm holding off on buying the full rebuild kit for now. Hopefully, this extends service life.

  51. #751
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    Quote Originally Posted by dodger View Post
    2. On reinstalling the post/keys. The critical part is a very sturdy thick rubber band wrapped over the tops of the keys very tight. My first reinstall took probably 1/2 hr just in that step with lots of cussing. This time was maybe 5 minutes.
    Man, I was cussing and yelling so much the first time I tried to do the install on the keys.!! Ha! Bike maintenance is such a trip, huh?

    Thanks for the info and details

  52. #752
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    They really need to ditch the X ring/wiper and go with a lip seal like every other fork/dropper in the world. Air retention with a seal was figured out eons ago in the engineering world so it's frustrating that something so easy is the Achilles heel of this otherwise awesome post.

  53. #753
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    Quote Originally Posted by dodger View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_1213(1).jpg 
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ID:	1173192

    So this is the redesigned part. It's the foam holder ring. Obviously they know they have an issue if they're making design changes. I presume the cut outs are too keep the X ring lubricated better/longer.

    Bear in mind my bike and post see daily use so the interval of service will be proportional to someone that rides 1 or 2x a week.. There's no visible degradation to the X ring after 2 to 3 months but sure enough it starts leaking. I installed a new X ring and this new foam holder and all is fine for now.

    A couple tips for ya'll:

    1. The X rings are available in bulk from McMaster Carr for dirt cheap. I believe it's a -214 if memory serves. Pretty sure 25 were under $10

    2. On reinstalling the post/keys. The critical part is a very sturdy thick rubber band wrapped over the tops of the keys very tight. My first reinstall took probably 1/2 hr just in that step with lots of cussing. This time was maybe 5 minutes.
    Ok.... thanks for posting. Is that foam ring holder available yet on their site? Man i just did a rebuild without it! And yeah, I don't really want to play around with the keys again! Let us know how the post functions, do you notice any difference in operation? Smoother return?

  54. #754
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    Quote Originally Posted by monts View Post
    Ok.... thanks for posting. Is that foam ring holder available yet on their site? Man i just did a rebuild without it! And yeah, I don't really want to play around with the keys again! Let us know how the post functions, do you notice any difference in operation? Smoother return?
    No difference in operation/feel. Hoping the difference is in longevity. I'm guessing the seal ring perforations will aid long term continued lubrication of the X ring or possibly they're to prevent some odd localized pressure build up between the X ring and seal holder?

  55. #755
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    So their crack customer service team got back to me with modified instructions...a day after the new part arrived!

    Fortunately there was nothing earth shattering:

    1) Don't use the nut assembly for the purpose of key insertion (have people been doing this?) The video doesn't suggest that and it would seam obvious to me not to bugger up the foam trying to do so

    2) Only light coat of grease on the X-ring. I always suspected too much was not ideal. grease is in compressible and trying to squeeze too much into an area could force a leak?

    3) Make sure the X ring is fully bottomed in the nut before threading the nut into the post. I'm paraphrasing here because their modified instructions desperately need a competent tech writer. They suggest a soft tool to do so but I can't think of anything that will easily fit in the nut/Xring annulus. Maybe the blunt edge of an allen wrench but I would just suggest using the foam holder/seal support ring and pushing it axially to fully bottom the X ring. I think they're trying to prevent rotational degradation if the X ring is not fully bottomed and then threaded onto the post.

    4) The most interesting thing was they said the new foam holder/seal support ring actually gets crushed on installation now. I am guessing they are using the foam as secondary air retention if the ring gets crushed, compressing the foam into the annulus? Seams very agricultural to me.

    They really need a V3 nut that will accommodate a lip seal and be done with this air leakage nonsense.

  56. #756
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    ... and wrench flats

  57. #757
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    Quote Originally Posted by dodger View Post
    So their crack customer service team got back to me with modified instructions...a day after the new part arrived!

    Fortunately there was nothing earth shattering:

    1) Don't use the nut assembly for the purpose of key insertion (have people been doing this?) The video doesn't suggest that and it would seam obvious to me not to bugger up the foam trying to do so

    2) Only light coat of grease on the X-ring. I always suspected too much was not ideal. grease is in compressible and trying to squeeze too much into an area could force a leak?

    3) Make sure the X ring is fully bottomed in the nut before threading the nut into the post. I'm paraphrasing here because their modified instructions desperately need a competent tech writer. They suggest a soft tool to do so but I can't think of anything that will easily fit in the nut/Xring annulus. Maybe the blunt edge of an allen wrench but I would just suggest using the foam holder/seal support ring and pushing it axially to fully bottom the X ring. I think they're trying to prevent rotational degradation if the X ring is not fully bottomed and then threaded onto the post.

    4) The most interesting thing was they said the new foam holder/seal support ring actually gets crushed on installation now. I am guessing they are using the foam as secondary air retention if the ring gets crushed, compressing the foam into the annulus? Seams very agricultural to me.

    They really need a V3 nut that will accommodate a lip seal and be done with this air leakage nonsense.
    1. I slide the nut assembly close to the top of the keys to kind of hold them together, but once you realize you can mess up the foam ring it was obvious to not to put any pressure on it.

    2. I'm cheap with the grease! However, during my recent rebuild I had to use more than I wanted to on the keys, but don't think I put too much on the X Ring. Will keep it in mind.

    3. If I remember correctly, my X Ring is always buried in the nut from sliding it, I don't remember it moving back out. It seems it would bottom out regardless once you thread it, but I guess they are saying it does not?

    4. So the new foam ring holder thing gets crushed when you thread it? What happens when you pull it back apart to do a re-lube?

  58. #758
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    Another vote for 9.8

    Mine was installed in August of 2015.....AZ, lots of heat, dry and dusty. I'm a terrible mechanic and I thought the install was easy with their instructions. Didn't touch it for about a year except wipe downs. One brake rest in Montana. Finally did the foam ring re lube myself and have done it a handful of times since. Recently developed an air leak. 9.8 Customer service answered the phone and quickly responded to emails. It went back on Friday and will get the V2 nut. I don't look at the changes to the design as an admission of flaws, rather a desire to make a great product even better. Almost 2.5 yrs of service and our season here is almost year round....I'll take that any day.

    I understand it sucks and is frustrating to have your problems, but just wanted others to know that for every person with an issue, there's a whole bunch of others out there riding with no problems....

    Hope you get your post issues resolved soon...

  59. #759
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    You can add me to the list of scoring on the front centerline of the post stanchion. I noticed it a couple of days ago while changing the saddle. It's a very fine score, can hardly feel it, at the moment. I have the 150mm version. At the moment the post is working fine.

    I assume the repair involves sending the dropper back for a new stanchion. Have they figured out why this is occurring?

  60. #760
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    Quote Originally Posted by trail-blazer View Post
    You can add me to the list of scoring on the front centerline of the post stanchion. I noticed it a couple of days ago while changing the saddle. It's a very fine score, can hardly feel it, at the moment. I have the 150mm version. At the moment the post is working fine.

    I assume the repair involves sending the dropper back for a new stanchion. Have they figured out why this is occurring?
    I've been hearing that it is not because of the keys (referred to as 'keyway scores') and that it is a result of having the seat post too tight. I don't know, I really don't run my seat post overly tight, it's a QR, but I have 3 perfectly spaced on the front of my post.

  61. #761
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    Quote Originally Posted by monts View Post
    I've been hearing that it is not because of the keys (referred to as 'keyway scores') and that it is a result of having the seat post too tight. I don't know, I really don't run my seat post overly tight, it's a QR, but I have 3 perfectly spaced on the front of my post.
    Yeah, I'm not too sure about that either. I don't have my QR too tight to allow the post to rotate in a crash. The scores only appeared within the last 3-4 rides meaning I went over 18 months with none or any other issues.

  62. #762
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    today i went biking in some cold temps 15-19F degrees with the wind chill, and initially the dropper was slow to extend and eventually it just stopped extending period. when i got home, i checked the air pressure and it was at 0psi. i've never had this happen before. i had put in 30psi the week earlier.

    i was out earlier this week in about 32F degrees and everything was fine.
    2017 yeti sb6c turq x01 eagle

  63. #763
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    I think I've come up with a fix for slow return speeds in dust (La NiŮa in Arizona levels of dust). Regreasing of everything with their recommended grease only resulted in satisfactory performance for a few rides in really dusty conditions.

    Now what I do is just hose down the upper tube with Maxima SC1 before every ride:
    https://www.amazon.com/Maxima-SC1-Si...rds=maxima+sc1

    It takes all of 2 seconds. A can lasts me about a season, and has many uses. The trick is to never wipe off the upper tube of the Fall Line after applying, just leave the full coat on. I fastidiously apply SC1 to my fork stanchions and shock body before every ride, wiping down after a minute to cure, but this is not the appropriate approach for the Fall Line. Run it wet.

  64. #764
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    Quote Originally Posted by half_man_half_scab View Post
    I think I've come up with a fix for slow return speeds in dust (La NiŮa in Arizona levels of dust). Regreasing of everything with their recommended grease only resulted in satisfactory performance for a few rides in really dusty conditions.

    Now what I do is just hose down the upper tube with Maxima SC1 before every ride:
    https://www.amazon.com/Maxima-SC1-Si...rds=maxima+sc1

    It takes all of 2 seconds. A can lasts me about a season, and has many uses. The trick is to never wipe off the upper tube of the Fall Line after applying, just leave the full coat on. I fastidiously apply SC1 to my fork stanchions and shock body before every ride, wiping down after a minute to cure, but this is not the appropriate approach for the Fall Line. Run it wet.
    I've used silicone spray on my KS LEV with good results but was always hesitant to use it on the 9.8 because they swear by the special grease and not to mix with anything else. You've had no issues? I might give it a try. I'm tired of slopping grease on this thing every ride.

  65. #765
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    Yeah, I don't think they tested their grease in the Southwest. I haven't had any air loss from seal failures after testing this approach this season, April to the present.

  66. #766
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    You need to be careful that it doesn't migrate into the brake compartment. 9p8 recommends that P10L grease because it doesn't separate and get oily, which would heighten the chance that the brake gets contaminated.

    It goes without saying, but Brake + Lube = bad.

  67. #767
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    I've had a contaminated brake in the past, but successfully cleaned it up. It's documented earlier in this thread. This was before I started testing with the SC1, and I suspect the oil was from the shock pump after pumping up my fork.

    Haven't had a problem with the SC1. It's not an oil, just a light coat of silicone, most of which is scraped off at the wiper.

  68. #768
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    Yes, I've had similar problem and I only use P10L. I'm just stating what 9p8 claims as the reason for pushing that P10L grease.

    I'd still argue that SC1 has more likelihood of contaminating the brake than P10L. Silicone is great stuff, but spray a little on your rotors and it's lights out.

  69. #769
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    Even if it eventually does contaminate the brake at a rate of once every sixth months, that service interval is far superior to the three rides I get from their recommended grease, freshly packed, in the conditions I ride.

  70. #770
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    Quote Originally Posted by dodger View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_1213(1).jpg 
Views:	105 
Size:	100.7 KB 
ID:	1173192

    So this is the redesigned part. It's the foam holder ring. Obviously they know they have an issue if they're making design changes. I presume the cut outs are too keep the X ring lubricated better/longer.

    Bear in mind my bike and post see daily use so the interval of service will be proportional to someone that rides 1 or 2x a week.. There's no visible degradation to the X ring after 2 to 3 months but sure enough it starts leaking. I installed a new X ring and this new foam holder and all is fine for now.

    A couple tips for ya'll:

    1. The X rings are available in bulk from McMaster Carr for dirt cheap. I believe it's a -214 if memory serves. Pretty sure 25 were under $10

    2. On reinstalling the post/keys. The critical part is a very sturdy thick rubber band wrapped over the tops of the keys very tight. My first reinstall took probably 1/2 hr just in that step with lots of cussing. This time was maybe 5 minutes.
    So their fancy new foam holder doesn't do squat. 3 weeks and my post is leaking slowly already. Was actually doing it by 2 weeks but I couldn't find the leak with a soap bubble test so I chalked it up to anomaly. I did a submerge test just now and found a slow leak past the wiper. Good thing I bought that batch of X rings at McMaster Carr.

    I'm over this post now. Somebody else please make a 200 post that I don't have to service every couple weeks. PLEASE!

  71. #771
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    damn....I didn't have a lot of faith in that fix. I still like the post - it'll just have to keep up the service. Appreciate the update.

  72. #772
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    On the plus side, that looks like it would be an economical and light weight substitute for a wedding band.

  73. #773
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    I wish there was a grease port on that collar.
    °Geaux Tigers! - °Visca el BarÁa!

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  74. #774
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    Anybody else have their post at 9point8 for warranty work right now? I sent mine in 3 weeks ago and they said they were held up waiting on new X-rings from Germany, but they were supposed to be in at the first of this week. At first they were very prompt with their responses to my emails but they just dropped off the map, I haven't heard back from them in a week and I called yesterday and left a VM and haven't gotten a call back, just wondering what is going on up there.

  75. #775
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    Update - they just got back to me, they are getting their seals in today and are going to get the posts that are in for warranty out ASAP. I love this post, I really hope this fixes the problem.

  76. #776
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    If they have to order standard X rings all the way from Germany then they should realize their design is not robust. I too love my post, when it holds air!!

    The redesigned seal support ring didn't help my X-ring hold for more than 2 weeks. The replacement is holding now at 1.5 weeks. They are sending my past complete post back as they claim it's now holding air with the updated seal support ring.

    I'll say it again...these guys need Nut V3 with a proper SKF energized lip seal/wiper.

  77. #777
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    I don't see the issue with an x-ring, isn't that what most MTB shocks use? The ones that i've serviced, anyways. They see a lot more in-and-out action than my dropper ever will!

    Oh well, glad to see that i'm not the only one with this problem. I have done the "quick service" and the "full service" myself but still am getting a lot of the grease coming out the top after a few weeks. Usually that happens for a while and then the air starts coming out.

    I have a 175mm and a 150mm. I've had good luck on the 175mm by running slickoleum instead of the 9point8 grease. The slickoleum being a thicker grease (and having been told by a 9point8 tech that it's okay to use) seems like it might be less likely to migrate past the x-ring. That is also what every shock i've repaired has recommended as a lubricant for seals.

    Agreed that it would be nice to fit the sealhead from a Fox Transfer or Thomson seatpost onto the 9point8.

  78. #778
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    Quote Originally Posted by Porch View Post
    I don't see the issue with an x-ring, isn't that what most MTB shocks use? The ones that i've serviced, anyways. They see a lot more in-and-out action than my dropper ever will!
    I think it's more to do with the flex we subject the posts to with our butts. Shocks normally don't see that kind of bending. We see the spring loaded dust wipers and rebound shaft seals on our forks, however, and I think that's what dodger is pointing out.

  79. #779
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    Quote Originally Posted by half_man_half_scab View Post
    I think it's more to do with the flex we subject the posts to with our butts. Shocks normally don't see that kind of bending. We see the spring loaded dust wipers and rebound shaft seals on our forks, however, and I think that's what dodger is pointing out.
    Good point! Wonder if the V2 seal head could just me opened up enough to take a fox or Thomson seal.

  80. #780
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    Quote Originally Posted by half_man_half_scab View Post
    I think it's more to do with the flex we subject the posts to with our butts. Shocks normally don't see that kind of bending. We see the spring loaded dust wipers and rebound shaft seals on our forks, however, and I think that's what dodger is pointing out.
    100%! I think that's what 9.8 is missing. Lab tests aren't going to replicate this unless they plan accordingly. A spring energized lip seal is more suited to accommodating minor displacements.

  81. #781
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    The main problem with the seal head is that while x-rings are great at holding air they suck at wiping lube. These post puke all the lube out. My fork doesn't leak a drop of oil and My post shouldn't either.
    If they want to keep the x-ring then they need a lipped seal on the outer dust wiper.
    I personally think that the x-ring should be replaced with dual lipped seals.
    Making shit harder than it needs to be isn't awesome, it's just...harder.

  82. #782
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    Quote Originally Posted by half_man_half_scab View Post
    I've had a contaminated brake in the past, but successfully cleaned it up. It's documented earlier in this thread. This was before I started testing with the SC1, and I suspect the oil was from the shock pump after pumping up my fork.

    Haven't had a problem with the SC1. It's not an oil, just a light coat of silicone, most of which is scraped off at the wiper.
    Rode very muddy wet conditions yesterday, used a small shot of silicone spray before my ride and post returned much better. based on past experience I know for sure the 9.8 grease would not have held up, but the silicone spray worked.

  83. #783
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    Quote Originally Posted by alexbn921 View Post
    The main problem with the seal head is that while x-rings are great at holding air they suck at wiping lube. These post puke all the lube out. My fork doesn't leak a drop of oil and My post shouldn't either.
    If they want to keep the x-ring then they need a lipped seal on the outer dust wiper.
    I personally think that the x-ring should be replaced with dual lipped seals.
    I was thinking about it overnight and I agree with you. My posts only have issues when they run out of lube.

    Not sure if you all are familiar with the online o-ring places, but this is a good one:
    The O-Ring Store LLC, We make getting O-Rings easy!

    Two things here...

    One is that the x-rings are available in other materials (viton). Are they actually a -214? The person above wasn't sure.

    The other is that they make double-lipped wipers that may fit in our application, but I can't say for sure without more measurement. For example: 1 Rod Wiper Seal Universal H-Style [H-1000] : The O-Ring Store LLC, We make getting O-Rings easy!

    About the H-Style wipers:
    "H type double lip wipers are one piece snap* in type rod wipers made from 90 durometer urethane. Wiping and sealing functions can be performed from a single component in low pressure systems. As the external lip scrapes foreign matter from the rod, the other lip acts as an effective pressure seal in low pressure pneumatic applications and a secondary seal to trap slight leakage in hydraulic systems."

    So it could act as a secondary seal, but i think it's probably too big (tall) to fit.

  84. #784
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    Maybe a better option is this guy: https://www.amazon.com/SKF-Small-CRW.../dp/B00CLJ119M

    Our post measures 1" diameter, and our seal head is 1.5"x~0.325" This seal is 1" ID, 1.375" OD, 0.25" tall, so it would fit if someone had a way to ream out the seal head for this to fit. Personally I don't have the machinery to do that professionally, but maybe i could spend some time with a dremel...

    Here's what that seal looks like:
    Name:  Screenshot_20180127_090302.png
Views: 627
Size:  4.8 KB

    Edit: I ordered one, I'll see how it looks when it gets here. In the meantime, if this is a bad idea i'd love to hear from some of the more experienced people!

  85. #785
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    The seal looks like it will work, but fitting it will be difficult. You need a full rubber seal like an skf fork seal. If they just switched to skf fork style seals I think the post would slide smother and keep all of it's lube in. Mine only loses air or slows down when it gets dry.
    this might work better.
    OS25x32x4mm R23 Oil Seal - Oil Seals - Bearing Shop UK

    edit
    FOX Kit: 2017 Transfer Seatpost rebuild 803-01-140 - FOX FOX spare parts - Bikes for family | Service | Parts
    Last edited by alexbn921; 01-27-2018 at 11:03 AM.
    Making shit harder than it needs to be isn't awesome, it's just...harder.

  86. #786
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    Yeah i think you're right, I realized that the spring is on the wrong side of the one i posted. Unfortunately SKF doesn't make a bike seal catalog that I can find on the web with dimensions. Not sure who else makes similar seals.

    It would be interesting to measure the shaft of a Fox Transfer and see if it's also a 1" shaft. If so, I bet the seal that comes with those would be easy to adapt to our seal head.

  87. #787
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    i could be wrong guys, but wouldn't you think the guys at 9p8 would know all this stuff? i think the founder is a long time engineer and i suspect they have a number of enginerds on staff who analyze these details.

    anyhow, i put a small amt of finish line stanchion lube on mine on occasion to keep it running smooth. only had to do the official lube thing once, but then again the bike isn't seeing regular use at this time of year.

  88. #788
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    Woohoo, found this! https://www.amazon.com/KS-Wiper-Seal...s=dropper+seal

    Ordered one just to see. Seems like it might be a good fit for the 9point8 seal head once the upper ridge is removed. 25mm internal (just under 1"), 33mm OD (1.299").

    Edit: Received the seals, nothing worth writing home about. On the KS shocks they're retained by a locking collar and that's not really possible on the 9point8 seal head.

    I found some 25x32x7mm seals, dual lip, with a garter spring and a steel frame on amazon for $4 each, but unfortunately they're coming from China. I'll update when they get here.
    Last edited by Porch; 02-09-2018 at 10:50 AM.

  89. #789
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    Has anyone used a different grease other than the 9point8 grease? I want to lube mine. But I donít want to order their grease if I donít have to.

  90. #790
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    Quote Originally Posted by AmadoMTB View Post
    Has anyone used a different grease other than the 9point8 grease? I want to lube mine. But I donít want to order their grease if I donít have to.
    Long time ago I learned from a buddy of mine to squirt a few drops of tri-flo around the seal when the post is starting to slow down on the return. Hold down the lever, pump the post up/down a few times, wipe off the excess, enjoy the smooth action. Knock on wood, never contaminated my brake (I also don't hang my bike for storage).

    _MK

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  91. #791
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    Thank you. Definitely hit it with suspension spray. But Iíve done so many rides in the rain on it that I know it needs a lube job.

  92. #792
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    Quote Originally Posted by AmadoMTB View Post
    Thank you. Definitely hit it with suspension spray. But Iíve done so many rides in the rain on it that I know it needs a lube job.
    Yep, A quick shot of suspension spray gets me through the rain/mud. Otherwise during dry weather I haven't had to use anything other than the 9.8 grease around the seal

  93. #793
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    Quote Originally Posted by AmadoMTB View Post
    Has anyone used a different grease other than the 9point8 grease? I want to lube mine. But I donít want to order their grease if I donít have to.
    The 9point8 guy told me on the phone that if you don't have their special grease on hand, then some slickoleum (slick honey, etc.) will do in a pinch.

  94. #794
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hawseman View Post
    Pretty bold statement regarding reliability considering the post is less than a season old. I feel we have lowered this bar a bit too much.



    The Fall Line has an issue with moisture getting into the brake compartment, which reduces the brake effectiveness. Varying dew points seem to accelerate this issue. Post #688 in this thread can have your brake holding like new again. Watch the 9point8 video on adding spacers. Once the lock ring is released from the bottom of the post, the brake assembly can be yanked right out. You want to be sure brake and surface is cleaned and very dry before reassembly.
    It's difficult to tell, but I assume the contamination is from moisture in the air of the shock pump (air dryer? nitrogen?). It does seem to have an oily feel, though. It may also be contamination from any grease from the bottom of the post working in. This process is part of my regular maintenance now and it does help. I do cuss trying to get the lock ring back in place. Those do-it-yourself videos always make it look easy - the beauty of post-process, video editing.
    Can you please please provide some commentary how the hell you got the lock ring out? I tried to push the black spacer down per the video on adding spacers and the damn black ring gouged. BTW if 9point8 follows this thread: Use a snap ring here please......with the holes in it so you can actually get the damn thing out. Using a lock ring makes it way harder than it needs to be.
    My Team: Feedback Sports Racing

  95. #795
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikeguy0 View Post
    Can you please please provide some commentary how the hell you got the lock ring out? I tried to push the black spacer down per the video on adding spacers and the damn black ring gouged. BTW if 9point8 follows this thread: Use a snap ring here please......with the holes in it so you can actually get the damn thing out. Using a lock ring makes it way harder than it needs to be.
    Yes, a circlip would be nice. Believe it or not, the ring comes out easier than it goes in. It's a pecka. On one end of the clip is a lip. You can wedge a small screwdriver and help pry it out, while pushing down on the other side. It's hard to keep it from spinning, but it'll go. Same idea going back in. I work the non-lip side into the slot holding it down and in place, while working the lip end out and down. It's frustrating, but it will go. You really need to have it in a bike stand, but I've had it between my legs sitting. Good luck.
    There may be a trick to making this easier, but I am not aware.

  96. #796
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    Cannot Remove Quick Connect from Fall Line Base?

    My LBS attempted shorten my cable housing for my Fall Line post and apparently the cable broke inside and quick connect will not thread out. Has anyone else encountered this dilemma and is there method or process to successfully removing the quick connect without sending the post back to 9.8? My favorite mechanic claims that it will not back out, it just spins clockwise?

    9point8 Fall Line Dropper Post. Totally happy with mine!-img_0109.jpg

    9point8 Fall Line Dropper Post. Totally happy with mine!-img_0110.jpg

    Please any help would be greatly appreciated, I am planning on attending the Sedona Mountain Bike Festival and not looking forward to using a fixed post for the rides.

  97. #797
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    The brake is probably jammed and not pressing on the walls to hold it in place. Try to unthread the bottom with a cassette tool. You should then have access to the jammed/broken parts.
    Making shit harder than it needs to be isn't awesome, it's just...harder.

  98. #798
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    Quote Originally Posted by CDIDriver View Post
    My LBS attempted shorten my cable housing for my Fall Line post and apparently the cable broke inside and quick connect will not thread out. Has anyone else encountered this dilemma and is there method or process to successfully removing the quick connect without sending the post back to 9.8? My favorite mechanic claims that it will not back out, it just spins clockwise?

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Please any help would be greatly appreciated, I am planning on attending the Sedona Mountain Bike Festival and not looking forward to using a fixed post for the rides.
    If the connector is freely spinning and not unthreading, an internal part is broken/damage. There is a square shaft in a square hole that keep the piston from spinning when disconnecting the QD. Your options are send it in, or get new brake/mast assembly.

  99. #799
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    No good

    Quote Originally Posted by dodger View Post
    I forgot my first failure was accompanied by keyway score too. Obviously these posts are not as bulletproof as we had originally hoped.
    I got the Race Face version, the Turbine post has the same internals,

    I got the same on two dropper posts. it's time to try something else.
    9point8 Fall Line Dropper Post. Totally happy with mine!-38530243744_ef933246a3_b.jpg

    here is my review: https://wp.me/p60aTF-2sW

  100. #800
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    One of the best features of the Fall Line is the seat clamp. I didn't realize that the Turbine didn't use it. That really makes adding air a major pain....not surprised that you rounded off the bolts.
    Thanks for review.

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