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  1. #601
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    Quote Originally Posted by jdaigneault View Post
    This happened to me once last year. I rotated it back and had no further issues with it. Once riding season was over I sent it back to 9.8 and they warrantied the fix, but explained the logo would never line up again, that was not a concern to me. 9.8 actually recommends running the seat post clamp a little loose, I forget their torque, so in the event of a crash, the whole post rotates inside the frame.
    Same here. It rotated on a fall two weeks after I got it. I straightened it then sent it in at the end of the season to be warrantied (as they suggested). I got it back last week.

  2. #602
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    Rubber band method was a success for me. I just used my fingers to keep the bullet side from sliding up then tap it in with my other hand


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  3. #603
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    I have about 10 rides on my 200mm fallline and it has stopped returning I checked air pressure and it was fine so I pulled the top cap and the seal was dry. Lubed it back up and its perfect again, but it seems like they don't have an internal wiper to keep the lube inside, like a fork does. Having to lube it every couple weeks sucks.

  4. #604
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    Quote Originally Posted by alexbn921 View Post
    I have about 10 rides on my 200mm fallline and it has stopped returning I checked air pressure and it was fine so I pulled the top cap and the seal was dry. Lubed it back up and its perfect again, but it seems like they don't have an internal wiper to keep the lube inside, like a fork does. Having to lube it every couple weeks sucks.
    just rubbing a little grease around the seal area (instead of pulling the top cap apart) works fine for me, it's just like lubing a fork stanchion, takes two seconds. I do that every 4 or 5 rides during mud season. When it's dry out, I think I did once in a 3 month period.

  5. #605
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    I hate to keep piling on 9point8 because I really do think they are a good company but I have been disappointed in my 150mm fall line.

    After about a month of riding I had the seal under the seatpost clamp go out. Had great customer service setting up a warranty repair return, but it took almost a month turn around to get it back, which I understand isn't necessarily their fault with customs and what not, just kind of a shock after having a week turn around on a thompson elite dropper service when I lived in Alaska.

    But cherry on this sundae is the same seal just went out again, three months after that warranty return. oh, and lubing the stanchion every other ride is a new one too.

    Like I said, their service has been great, and I legitimately think they are a good company, but.. this is ridiculous

  6. #606
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    Mine was bombproof for the first three quarters of last year but just finished a week of riding in AZ and the creaking returned with a vengeance by the end of the week. It works fine but I do find it frustrating that the time between lubrication has diminished.

    Functionally, it still works great but that creaking is getting on my nerves

  7. #607
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    It's worth to note, that the weakest point of the post design is that the stanchion outer surface serves also as a working part, so requires a good lubrication and air tightness to upper nut and even a small stanchion surface scratch would send the post to trash. None of forks or other seatposts design depends on vulnerable outer stanchion surface. The rest of the design is very good.

  8. #608
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    Quote Originally Posted by monts View Post
    just rubbing a little grease around the seal area (instead of pulling the top cap apart) works fine for me, it's just like lubing a fork stanchion, takes two seconds. I do that every 4 or 5 rides during mud season. When it's dry out, I think I did once in a 3 month period.
    That's what I do every few rides, even more in the mud season. I will clean my fork stanchions and seal area as well as the dropper. A very slight film of Slick Honey around the stanchion's keeps them moving like butter. You don't need to lather the whole thing up just a short section lowest to the seals. I do the same to my shock.

  9. #609
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    Quote Originally Posted by TraxFactory View Post
    That's what I do every few rides, even more in the mud season. I will clean my fork stanchions and seal area as well as the dropper. A very slight film of Slick Honey around the stanchion's keeps them moving like butter. You don't need to lather the whole thing up just a short section lowest to the seals. I do the same to my shock.
    I just talked to one of nine point eight guys the other day over the phone and he told me you should "take care of the post exactly like your suspension." Makes sense to me, wipe it, lube it, etc. Also, grab the grease nine point eight sells, i was using slick honey but the recommended grease around the seal works like a charm. Even better and you dont need much at all.

  10. #610
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    Quote Originally Posted by monts View Post
    I just talked to one of nine point eight guys the other day over the phone and he told me you should "take care of the post exactly like your suspension." Makes sense to me, wipe it, lube it, etc. Also, grab the grease nine point eight sells, i was using slick honey but the recommended grease around the seal works like a charm. Even better and you dont need much at all.
    I clean my suspension after every ride. You should never lube your sanctions as it will just attract dirt and wear them out faster. Most forks and shocks have an internal wiper built into the seal to prevent the lube from escaping. My fork never weeps oil, but my seat post does. Seems like a simple fix. I'm still very happy with the post and think its the best on the market. I will lube it externally for awhile and see how it goes.

  11. #611
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    Quote Originally Posted by alexbn921 View Post
    You should never lube your sanctions as it will just attract dirt and wear them out faster.
    I dunno, I do. Not like greasing a bearing, its a slight film (after cleaning) then cycle the suspension. Keeps that seal buttery smooth. Wipe away any excess.

    Never ever worn out a stanchion.

  12. #612
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    Quote Originally Posted by TraxFactory View Post
    I dunno, I do. Not like greasing a bearing, its a slight film (after cleaning) then cycle the suspension. Keeps that seal buttery smooth. Wipe away any excess.

    Never ever worn out a stanchion.
    I thought Fox actually recommended lubing the seal area of your fork with Fox Float fluid (and recommended slick honey as an alternative). It reduces stiction and prolongs the life of your seal. Well either way, same concept for the post. You don't smear it all over the stanchion, but yeah, just a light coat around the seal area.

  13. #613
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    anyone else having trouble loosening the nut on your Fall Line? Im trying to relube the seal by following the instructions in their video here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xNJKvRWdveQ

    but I cant get the damn thing loose. I am using the exact same Park clamp that they use in the video, but the clamp cant grab the nut, no matter how tight i crank it. and the whole thing just spins in the clamp.

    any ideas?

  14. #614
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    Did you release the air? Try also to wrap the post with the piece of old tube and so the top nut. This way I was able to loose top nut on RF dropper (similar design) by hands only. Both parts must be degreased by isopropyl (use gently only on post tube and top nut).

  15. #615
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    Quote Originally Posted by PeterG View Post
    Did you release the air? Try also to wrap the post with the piece of old tube and so the top nut. This way I was able to loose top nut on RF dropper (similar design) by hands only. Both parts must be degreased by isopropyl (use gently only on post tube and top nut).
    i did release air, but maybe i need to scrounge around and try with a tube. thanks for the suggestion. i got frustrated and put the post back on the bike but will try again soon using this method

  16. #616
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    Quote Originally Posted by sooner518 View Post
    i did release air, but maybe i need to scrounge around and try with a tube. thanks for the suggestion. i got frustrated and put the post back on the bike but will try again soon using this method
    Use a strap wrench, super easy. Clamping it doesn't work well at all. I paid $5 for a strap wrench and had that thing apart in two seconds.

  17. #617
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    Quote Originally Posted by monts View Post
    Use a strap wrench, super easy. Clamping it doesn't work well at all. I paid $5 for a strap wrench and had that thing apart in two seconds.
    This. I used a Craftsman Strap wrench and it came right off.

  18. #618
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    Same problem loosening the nut. Tried the work stand and a strap wrench. Eventually brought it in to a shop. They struggled too. They were able to get it loose by leaving the saddle on, clamping the nut in the work stand and rotating the saddle.

  19. #619
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    Hello, so I have slipping issues again. I tried all 3 reset methods but none of them helped me. I can cycle the post just by hand. I received the post from warranty service it was in Germany and they said nothing is wrong with post. It worked when I got it but bit strange, was slipping a little bit. I havent toutched the bike for 3 weeks and now its slipping again. i dont know whats wrong. Im very frustrated I wanna ride but I cant because of it.

  20. #620
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    My Falline is due for a lube job. Are you guys taking the whole post out of the seat tube? If so, are you dis-connecting the cable also? Has anyone done a lube with the post still in the seat tube?
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  21. #621
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    Quote Originally Posted by kevinboyer View Post
    My Falline is due for a lube job. Are you guys taking the whole post out of the seat tube? If so, are you dis-connecting the cable also? Has anyone done a lube with the post still in the seat tube?
    Having it off the bike and on some soft jaws really makes the task easier. The cable mechanism is so easy to detach But I suppose if all your doing is repacking the collar, you could work on it on the bike.


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  22. #622
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    Quote Originally Posted by Junersun View Post
    Having it off the bike and on some soft jaws really makes the task easier. The cable mechanism is so easy to detach But I suppose if all your doing is repacking the collar, you could work on it on the bike.


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    Thanks for the tips. I couldn't get it to break loose at all by hand and I don't own a strap wrench, so I'll get one and try again.
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  23. #623
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    I leave it on. The seatpost is a great counteracting force to the strap wrench

  24. #624
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    Can anyone recommend a substitute for the P10L grease? I would buy it from 9point8 but 12.95 shipping for a 4$ thimble of grease?


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  25. #625
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    Quote Originally Posted by reamer41 View Post
    Can anyone recommend a substitute for the P10L grease? I would buy it from 9point8 but 12.95 shipping for a 4$ thimble of grease?


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    Check this thread out....

    Fall Line Service
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  26. #626
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    Quote Originally Posted by kevinboyer View Post
    Check this thread out....

    Fall Line Service
    Thanks!


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  27. #627
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    i see wolftooth have a specific fall line ReMote now....suggestion seems to be a slightly different cable pull/pressure so the release and brake mechanism works optimally?

  28. #628
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    Quote Originally Posted by dRjOn View Post
    i see wolftooth have a specific fall line ReMote now....suggestion seems to be a slightly different cable pull/pressure so the release and brake mechanism works optimally?
    Actually it is a 9point8 lever that is manufactured by Wolf Tooth and available through 9point8. It is based on Wolf Tooths ReMote lever, but the lever is longer giving more leverage and the travel stops are adjusted so the lever has more travel to assure the brake reset function can be achieved. So all the great features of the ReMote but optimized for use with DropLoc posts like 9point8's Fall Line and the RaceFace/Easton Turbine and Haven.

  29. #629
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    I ordered the new lever and should be here next week. I have the Wolftooth version on two bikes right now and it is great but the changes sounded like they would be nice so I ordered it.
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  30. #630
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    Quote Originally Posted by JackP42 View Post
    Actually it is a 9point8 lever that is manufactured by Wolf Tooth and available through 9point8. It is based on Wolf Tooths ReMote lever, but the lever is longer giving more leverage and the travel stops are adjusted so the lever has more travel to assure the brake reset function can be achieved. So all the great features of the ReMote but optimized for use with DropLoc posts like 9point8's Fall Line and the RaceFace/Easton Turbine and Haven.
    oh thats good to know the new 9point8 wolftooth lever is actually different from the normal wolftooth remote lever. i might try it now.

    do you know if the new 9point8 wolftooth lever is matchmaker or sram clamp compatible? i hate the stock/old 9point8 lever because it isn't matchmaker compatible

    edit: nm, i just looked on the 9point8 website and it says the new digit is matchmaker compatible.
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  31. #631
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    The original Wolftooth ReMote works great. Plus, the picture of the wolf on the trigger is boss.


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  32. #632
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    Heading to Moab next week by car, but I live at sea level and thus my Fall Line uses sea level air in the chamber. Should I depressurize the post before I leave home and do the same when leaving Moab?

  33. #633
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    Quote Originally Posted by dngr View Post
    Heading to Moab next week by car, but I live at sea level and thus my Fall Line uses sea level air in the chamber. Should I depressurize the post before I leave home and do the same when leaving Moab?
    LOL. The air is dryer there too so you'll need to moisten it.
    No you don't have to change your air out.

  34. #634
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    Quote Originally Posted by dngr View Post
    Heading to Moab next week by car, but I live at sea level and thus my Fall Line uses sea level air in the chamber. Should I depressurize the post before I leave home and do the same when leaving Moab?
    9point8 can weigh in if they'd like, but my understanding is that their posts have will self-equilibrate if you fully depress the lever (further than you would in normal use) once you get to your destination. It certainly wouldn't hurt- and is easy enough to do.

  35. #635
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    Isn't that rather thermal compensation of brake fuid expansion rather than air pressure equalization? In the mountains air pressure changes by ca. 8mbar (0.008 bar) for each 100 m of altitude raise/decline (i.e. ca. 0.08 bar/1000m), which is negligible compared to 2 bar (ca. 29 psi) of the seatpost air pressure.

  36. #636
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    Quote Originally Posted by dngr View Post
    Heading to Moab next week by car, but I live at sea level and thus my Fall Line uses sea level air in the chamber. Should I depressurize the post before I leave home and do the same when leaving Moab?
    You don't need to vent the post for shipping. The only reason to adjust the air pressure is if there is a significant temperature change. For example setting the air pressure at room temperature and then riding at below freezing is enough of a temperature difference that the air pressure will noticeably be affected and the post will return slower or possibly not completely.
    Have fun in Moab. Trails there are awesome!

  37. #637
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    I really want to love this post, it checks all my boxes. 200mm of drop, mechanical cable actuation, microadjust saddle angle, and the ability to remove the saddle without losing the angle setting. Unfortunately my post has been plagued by problems from the start. After the first ride it had leaked down to nothing in the air spring. A couple rides later the brake started slipping and a "brake reset" did not remedy the issue. I was forced to disassemble the post to clean contamination off the brake and out of the air chamber. A few rides later the brake started slipping again, no way in hell the contamination came from the pump this time , as I have switched to a separate previously unused shock pump to use exclusively on this post. Now for the last straw, last night I felt a grinding sensation while lowering the saddle and the stanchion has 2 large scratches which have somehow occurred from the internals of the post.

    I have been in posession of this post for under a month, while injured, so it has seen only a handful of rides. I have emailed the company 4 times (beginning with the first time it leaked) since buying the post and have received not one reply. Facebook messenger, no reply. Posts on their page, no reply. Phone call, no answer and so far no call back. This is probably the worst experience I have ever had with a bike part.
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  38. #638
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    Quote Originally Posted by rollertoaster View Post
    I really want to love this post, it checks all my boxes. 200mm of drop, mechanical cable actuation, microadjust saddle angle, and the ability to remove the saddle without losing the angle setting. Unfortunately my post has been plagued by problems from the start. After the first ride it had leaked down to nothing in the air spring. A couple rides later the brake started slipping and a "brake reset" did not remedy the issue. I was forced to disassemble the post to clean contamination off the brake and out of the air chamber. A few rides later the brake started slipping again, no way in hell the contamination came from the pump this time , as I have switched to a separate previously unused shock pump to use exclusively on this post. Now for the last straw, last night I felt a grinding sensation while lowering the saddle and the stanchion has 2 large scratches which have somehow occurred from the internals of the post.

    I have been in posession of this post for under a month, while injured, so it has seen only a handful of rides. I have emailed the company 4 times (beginning with the first time it leaked) since buying the post and have received not one reply. Facebook messenger, no reply. Posts on their page, no reply. Phone call, no answer and so far no call back. This is probably the worst experience I have ever had with a bike part.
    I'm starting to wonder as well. I just got one of my posts back for what I assume was contamination on the brake. Same issue with no calls back, no responses to emails and social media. The only way I was able to get a response was the online chat function and they were very helpful. You should try that but I'm getting a little worried as well with the communication or lack thereof.


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  39. #639
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    Quote Originally Posted by rollertoaster View Post
    I really want to love this post, it checks all my boxes. 200mm of drop, mechanical cable actuation, microadjust saddle angle, and the ability to remove the saddle without losing the angle setting. Unfortunately my post has been plagued by problems from the start. After the first ride it had leaked down to nothing in the air spring. A couple rides later the brake started slipping and a "brake reset" did not remedy the issue. I was forced to disassemble the post to clean contamination off the brake and out of the air chamber. A few rides later the brake started slipping again, no way in hell the contamination came from the pump this time , as I have switched to a separate previously unused shock pump to use exclusively on this post. Now for the last straw, last night I felt a grinding sensation while lowering the saddle and the stanchion has 2 large scratches which have somehow occurred from the internals of the post.

    I have been in posession of this post for under a month, while injured, so it has seen only a handful of rides. I have emailed the company 4 times (beginning with the first time it leaked) since buying the post and have received not one reply. Facebook messenger, no reply. Posts on their page, no reply. Phone call, no answer and so far no call back. This is probably the worst experience I have ever had with a bike part.
    Bummer!!! What a drag to have issues so soon!

    I have had a few relatively minor issues with my 175mm, but every time I call them up on the phone I usually get someone right away, and they have been very generous with providing a solution to each issue free of charge. Try calling, I haven't used email or FB, maybe those don't work as well with them.

    I'd be very surprised if they didn't get you sorted out quickly once you get a hold of them.

    Good luck!

  40. #640
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    the online chat has been offline every time I have checked. they refuse to reply or offer any assistance
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  41. #641
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    Quote Originally Posted by rollertoaster View Post
    the online chat has been offline every time I have checked. they refuse to reply or offer any assistance
    Emailed for new business over the weekend. So far no response from 9point8. I share your frustration....


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  42. #642
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    Quote Originally Posted by locktonimage View Post
    Emailed for new business over the weekend. So far no response from 9point8. I share your frustration....


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    A lot of the bike industry is crazy busy right now getting ready for the Sea Otter Classic. I bet that mid next week when everyone is back and they have unpacked things will get back to normal.

  43. #643
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    Quote Originally Posted by locktonimage View Post
    Emailed for new business over the weekend. So far no response from 9point8. I share your frustration....


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    really? wow. i emailed them on friday regarding my new 9point8 digit remote and they got back to me within 2-3 days
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  44. #644
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    here's the 9point8 digit with the matchmaker

    9point8 Fall Line Dropper Post. Totally happy with mine!-20170418_172613.jpg
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  45. #645
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    9point8 customer service has disappeared over this last month. In the past I would get a reply from them within 24 hours. They had fantastic customer service. Left them emails twice over the last month with no reply at all. Anyone else experiencing this problem? Hope it is only a temporary problem

  46. #646
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    Quote Originally Posted by gorgebiker View Post
    9point8 customer service has disappeared over this last month. In the past I would get a reply from them within 24 hours. They had fantastic customer service. Left them emails twice over the last month with no reply at all. Anyone else experiencing this problem? Hope it is only a temporary problem
    Ive left them numerous emails over the past 6 months an never received a response...

    That said, i have the post and luv it, little worried if i have problems.

  47. #647
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    They were having issues with their email. It has been corrected.


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  48. #648
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    I have been running a 150mm Fall Line for about a year and a half and have been very happy with it. My only gripe was that the lever force was higher than I liked. Yesterday I replaced the inner and outer cable with Shimano housing and it is MUCH better. Noticeably less force required at the lever and much smoother action. I wish I had done this sooner!

  49. #649
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    can anyone recommend a good strap wrench to help me service the dropper. I have a cassette tool but need help getting the collar part off

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  50. #650
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    Craftsman 2-piece 16" Rubber Strap Wrench Set with Plastic Handles
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  51. #651
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    Quote Originally Posted by useport80 View Post
    can anyone recommend a good strap wrench to help me service the dropper. I have a cassette tool but need help getting the collar part off

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    I picked up one of these Klein 6in strap wrenches and they work great. They have a nice rubber or silacone strap that grips really well and they are smaller than those plastic ones I've tried before. They are made in the USA too which is nice.

    Klein Tools 6 in. Grip-it Strap Wrench S-6H at The Home Depot - Mobile

  52. #652
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    If the brake is slipping can we confirm the only fix is warranty replacement or a new brake part. Ie there is no user serviceable item on the brake?
    Last edited by locktonimage; 4 Weeks Ago at 07:20 AM.

  53. #653
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    I've had well over a year of no problems with my 150 dropper, but yesterday whilst riding my seat turned like the head/clamp was unscrewing from the top of the post. I just turned it back and it tightened up again but it unscrewed a couple more times during the ride. I had a couple of crashes in the past where the seat got turned and I just knocked it straight again and not had any problem since until yesterday. Apart from the head unscrewing the post is working fine.

    So, is the seat head/clamp just screwed onto the top of the post? Can I unscrew it completely and apply some strong locktite and screw it back on? Anyone else had this issue?
    Last edited by trail-blazer; 4 Weeks Ago at 07:24 AM. Reason: Spelling

  54. #654
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    9point8 Fall Line Dropper Post. Totally happy with mine!

    Anyone had this issue? Not just marks, these are grooves. Had the post for less than 2 months.


  55. #655
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    Quote Originally Posted by locktonimage View Post
    If the brake is slipping can we confirm the only fix is warranty replacement or a new brake part. Ie there is no user serviceable item on the brake?
    Have you tried a brake reset? You want to do it at the point where it slips as this will be the widest point inside the post. Another possibility is that grease has migrated down onto the brake. In that case cleaning it and the inner tube with alcohol will fix the slipping.

  56. #656
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    Quote Originally Posted by kragu View Post
    Anyone had this issue? Not just marks, these are grooves. Had the post for less than 2 months.

    Holy Crap man!! Something scratched it. That sucks. I'm surprised it isn't leaking air. Probably going to need a new stanchion.


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  57. #657
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    Quote Originally Posted by kragu View Post
    Anyone had this issue? Not just marks, these are grooves. Had the post for less than 2 months.

    Contact customer service and they can get the problem sorted for you.

  58. #658
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    trail-blazer, you should not use an anaerobic thread locker like Loctite products as the off gassing of the thread locker as it cures is very harmful to the brake inside the post and will cause it to rapidly fail.
    The head flange is torqued to 100 ft-lbs torque and head with a high strength epoxy. It will be challenging to do this without putting components in the post at risk.
    I would recommend you contact customer service and they can take care of getting the flange issue corrected.
    Last edited by JackP42; 4 Weeks Ago at 07:34 AM.

  59. #659
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    Quote Originally Posted by JackP42 View Post
    Contact customer service and they can get the problem sorted for you.
    Is this likely to cost me, in your experience? Fairly certain I've done nothing to warrant the damage.

  60. #660
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    Quote Originally Posted by kragu View Post
    Is this likely to cost me, in your experience? Fairly certain I've done nothing to warrant the damage.
    Without taking the post apart and determining the cause, it is hard to say. Speculation doesn't really add value at this point. It's free to contact customer service and start a discussion on how to get issue resolved.

  61. #661
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    Quote Originally Posted by JackP42 View Post
    trail-blazer, you should not use an anaerobic thread locker like Loctite products as the off gassing of the thread locker as it cures is very harmful to the brake inside the post and will cause it to rapidly fail.
    The head flange is torqued to 100 ft-lbs torque and head with a high strength epoxy. It will be challenging to do this without putting components in the post at risk.
    I would recommend you contact customer service and they can take care of getting the flange issue corrected.
    Thanks for the response. I'll get in touch with their service people. Hopefully I can do a temporary fix to get me through the summer as I'd hate to have to send it in and be without the post for a couple of weeks at the start of the season.

    Perhaps instead of epoxy they could use a pin to secure the head to the tube. It could be designed that the pin shears in a crash to save the post after which it could easily be replaced by the dropper owner.

  62. #662
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    Anyone have problems with it not holding air for more than 24 hours?

  63. #663
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    Just want to give 9point8 a big thumbs up.

    So I sent 9point8 customer service an email today explaining my problem I experienced with the head flange unscrewing on the post stanchion last weekend (see my post above) and asked if there was any DIY fix I could do to avoid me having to send back the post and miss out on riding for a couple of weeks till it gets turned around.

    I got a phone call within 4 hours from them giving me a solution on how to repair my post. It's not an easy process from the sound of it and is most likely temporary and I'm not sure I'll attempt it yet but I'm really impressed with their service and for getting back to me so quick, let alone offering me a solution. They could so easily just have said to send it back. That would certainly have been the easy option for them, especially since the repair wouldn't be covered by warranty

    Well done.

  64. #664
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    I use Dow Molykote 55 O-Ring Grease for my 9point8 dropper as well as my shock and fork. It is expensive, but the 5 oz tube has lasted years, you dont need much. This is an industrial grease that is made specifically for this type of application. The Molykote 55 is good for -80 to 350F. I also use it on the bushings and pins inside the dropper.

    I use this grease alone and nothing else for this dropper. DONT use oil in the relube process or on the post, I had put a drop of Fox float on there once and that made its way into the brake area and had to clean and rebuild the dropper after that.

    You have to be very careful since this dropper design is very sensitive to the lubricants, it is easy for oil/grease to get into the inner parts and one drop of oil in there and the internal brake wont keep the seat up anymore.


    Quote Originally Posted by reamer41 View Post
    Can anyone recommend a substitute for the P10L grease? I would buy it from 9point8 but 12.95 shipping for a 4$ thimble of grease?


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  65. #665
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    I had the same problem. One easy way to find out is to put air in it (about 50 psi) and put some water with dishsoap around the main dust wiper on the stem and see if it bubbles. When mine leaked, it leaked past the x-ring and vented through the dust seal with bubbles forming there. The other o-rings are static and would not fail as quickly. Mine failed in less than a year of it being new, I replaced it myself than having to get it warrantied.

    You can go to the 9.8 website and they have instructions on how to replace the x-ring. You can buy a replacement seal kit or buy a similar seal for cheap, it is size -213 X-ring (aka dash 213).

    I use Molykote 55 o-ring grease instead of the 9.8 grease they sell.

  66. #666
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    Quote Originally Posted by crondula View Post
    I use Dow Molykote 55 O-Ring Grease for my 9point8 dropper as well as my shock and fork. It is expensive, but the 5 oz tube has lasted years, you dont need much. This is an industrial grease that is made specifically for this type of application. The Molykote 55 is good for -80 to 350F. I also use it on the bushings and pins inside the dropper.

    ......
    Thanks for the tip! I'll pick some up.
    --Reamer

  67. #667
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    Quote Originally Posted by crondula View Post
    I use Dow Molykote 55 O-Ring Grease for my 9point8 dropper as well as my shock and fork...
    Quoted from the datasheet:
    "Molykote ® 55 O-ring Grease is a silicone-based material that helps ensure positive lubrication and sealing by slightly swelling rubber O-rings and seals..."
    "COMPATIBILITY: Molykote ® 55 O-Ring Grease has been hown to swell natural rubber. However, compatibility of the lubricant may vary with the plasticizer content of specific materials (especially elastomers). Small-scale compatibility testing should be conducted prior to the use of this product in any application. ..."
    Maybe good for 9point8, but I'm not sure about shock and fork.

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