Page 7 of 8 FirstFirst ... 345678 LastLast
Results 601 to 700 of 743
  1. #601
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    33
    Quote Originally Posted by jdaigneault View Post
    This happened to me once last year. I rotated it back and had no further issues with it. Once riding season was over I sent it back to 9.8 and they warrantied the fix, but explained the logo would never line up again, that was not a concern to me. 9.8 actually recommends running the seat post clamp a little loose, I forget their torque, so in the event of a crash, the whole post rotates inside the frame.
    Same here. It rotated on a fall two weeks after I got it. I straightened it then sent it in at the end of the season to be warrantied (as they suggested). I got it back last week.

  2. #602
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Junersun's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Posts
    1,491
    Rubber band method was a success for me. I just used my fingers to keep the bullet side from sliding up then tap it in with my other hand


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Current Bikes

    2018 Santa Cruz Chameleon 27+
    2016 YT Tues AL
    2016 Banshee Rune

  3. #603
    Ride Fast Take Chances :)
    Reputation: alexbn921's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    1,683
    I have about 10 rides on my 200mm fallline and it has stopped returning I checked air pressure and it was fine so I pulled the top cap and the seal was dry. Lubed it back up and its perfect again, but it seems like they don't have an internal wiper to keep the lube inside, like a fork does. Having to lube it every couple weeks sucks.

  4. #604
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    173
    Quote Originally Posted by alexbn921 View Post
    I have about 10 rides on my 200mm fallline and it has stopped returning I checked air pressure and it was fine so I pulled the top cap and the seal was dry. Lubed it back up and its perfect again, but it seems like they don't have an internal wiper to keep the lube inside, like a fork does. Having to lube it every couple weeks sucks.
    just rubbing a little grease around the seal area (instead of pulling the top cap apart) works fine for me, it's just like lubing a fork stanchion, takes two seconds. I do that every 4 or 5 rides during mud season. When it's dry out, I think I did once in a 3 month period.

  5. #605
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    24
    I hate to keep piling on 9point8 because I really do think they are a good company but I have been disappointed in my 150mm fall line.

    After about a month of riding I had the seal under the seatpost clamp go out. Had great customer service setting up a warranty repair return, but it took almost a month turn around to get it back, which I understand isn't necessarily their fault with customs and what not, just kind of a shock after having a week turn around on a thompson elite dropper service when I lived in Alaska.

    But cherry on this sundae is the same seal just went out again, three months after that warranty return. oh, and lubing the stanchion every other ride is a new one too.

    Like I said, their service has been great, and I legitimately think they are a good company, but.. this is ridiculous

  6. #606
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    285
    Mine was bombproof for the first three quarters of last year but just finished a week of riding in AZ and the creaking returned with a vengeance by the end of the week. It works fine but I do find it frustrating that the time between lubrication has diminished.

    Functionally, it still works great but that creaking is getting on my nerves

  7. #607
    Slovakia (Europe)
    Reputation: PeterG's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    665
    It's worth to note, that the weakest point of the post design is that the stanchion outer surface serves also as a working part, so requires a good lubrication and air tightness to upper nut and even a small stanchion surface scratch would send the post to trash. None of forks or other seatposts design depends on vulnerable outer stanchion surface. The rest of the design is very good.

  8. #608
    used to be RipRoar
    Reputation: TraxFactory's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 1999
    Posts
    2,043
    Quote Originally Posted by monts View Post
    just rubbing a little grease around the seal area (instead of pulling the top cap apart) works fine for me, it's just like lubing a fork stanchion, takes two seconds. I do that every 4 or 5 rides during mud season. When it's dry out, I think I did once in a 3 month period.
    That's what I do every few rides, even more in the mud season. I will clean my fork stanchions and seal area as well as the dropper. A very slight film of Slick Honey around the stanchion's keeps them moving like butter. You don't need to lather the whole thing up just a short section lowest to the seals. I do the same to my shock.

  9. #609
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    173
    Quote Originally Posted by TraxFactory View Post
    That's what I do every few rides, even more in the mud season. I will clean my fork stanchions and seal area as well as the dropper. A very slight film of Slick Honey around the stanchion's keeps them moving like butter. You don't need to lather the whole thing up just a short section lowest to the seals. I do the same to my shock.
    I just talked to one of nine point eight guys the other day over the phone and he told me you should "take care of the post exactly like your suspension." Makes sense to me, wipe it, lube it, etc. Also, grab the grease nine point eight sells, i was using slick honey but the recommended grease around the seal works like a charm. Even better and you dont need much at all.

  10. #610
    Ride Fast Take Chances :)
    Reputation: alexbn921's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    1,683
    Quote Originally Posted by monts View Post
    I just talked to one of nine point eight guys the other day over the phone and he told me you should "take care of the post exactly like your suspension." Makes sense to me, wipe it, lube it, etc. Also, grab the grease nine point eight sells, i was using slick honey but the recommended grease around the seal works like a charm. Even better and you dont need much at all.
    I clean my suspension after every ride. You should never lube your sanctions as it will just attract dirt and wear them out faster. Most forks and shocks have an internal wiper built into the seal to prevent the lube from escaping. My fork never weeps oil, but my seat post does. Seems like a simple fix. I'm still very happy with the post and think its the best on the market. I will lube it externally for awhile and see how it goes.

  11. #611
    used to be RipRoar
    Reputation: TraxFactory's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 1999
    Posts
    2,043
    Quote Originally Posted by alexbn921 View Post
    You should never lube your sanctions as it will just attract dirt and wear them out faster.
    I dunno, I do. Not like greasing a bearing, its a slight film (after cleaning) then cycle the suspension. Keeps that seal buttery smooth. Wipe away any excess.

    Never ever worn out a stanchion.

  12. #612
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    173
    Quote Originally Posted by TraxFactory View Post
    I dunno, I do. Not like greasing a bearing, its a slight film (after cleaning) then cycle the suspension. Keeps that seal buttery smooth. Wipe away any excess.

    Never ever worn out a stanchion.
    I thought Fox actually recommended lubing the seal area of your fork with Fox Float fluid (and recommended slick honey as an alternative). It reduces stiction and prolongs the life of your seal. Well either way, same concept for the post. You don't smear it all over the stanchion, but yeah, just a light coat around the seal area.

  13. #613
    mtbr member
    Reputation: sooner518's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    1,938
    anyone else having trouble loosening the nut on your Fall Line? Im trying to relube the seal by following the instructions in their video here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xNJKvRWdveQ

    but I cant get the damn thing loose. I am using the exact same Park clamp that they use in the video, but the clamp cant grab the nut, no matter how tight i crank it. and the whole thing just spins in the clamp.

    any ideas?

  14. #614
    Slovakia (Europe)
    Reputation: PeterG's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    665
    Did you release the air? Try also to wrap the post with the piece of old tube and so the top nut. This way I was able to loose top nut on RF dropper (similar design) by hands only. Both parts must be degreased by isopropyl (use gently only on post tube and top nut).

  15. #615
    mtbr member
    Reputation: sooner518's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    1,938
    Quote Originally Posted by PeterG View Post
    Did you release the air? Try also to wrap the post with the piece of old tube and so the top nut. This way I was able to loose top nut on RF dropper (similar design) by hands only. Both parts must be degreased by isopropyl (use gently only on post tube and top nut).
    i did release air, but maybe i need to scrounge around and try with a tube. thanks for the suggestion. i got frustrated and put the post back on the bike but will try again soon using this method

  16. #616
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    173
    Quote Originally Posted by sooner518 View Post
    i did release air, but maybe i need to scrounge around and try with a tube. thanks for the suggestion. i got frustrated and put the post back on the bike but will try again soon using this method
    Use a strap wrench, super easy. Clamping it doesn't work well at all. I paid $5 for a strap wrench and had that thing apart in two seconds.

  17. #617
    Ride Fast Take Chances :)
    Reputation: alexbn921's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    1,683
    Quote Originally Posted by monts View Post
    Use a strap wrench, super easy. Clamping it doesn't work well at all. I paid $5 for a strap wrench and had that thing apart in two seconds.
    This. I used a Craftsman Strap wrench and it came right off.

  18. #618
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Posts
    99
    Same problem loosening the nut. Tried the work stand and a strap wrench. Eventually brought it in to a shop. They struggled too. They were able to get it loose by leaving the saddle on, clamping the nut in the work stand and rotating the saddle.

  19. #619
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Posts
    16
    Hello, so I have slipping issues again. I tried all 3 reset methods but none of them helped me. I can cycle the post just by hand. I received the post from warranty service it was in Germany and they said nothing is wrong with post. It worked when I got it but bit strange, was slipping a little bit. I havent toutched the bike for 3 weeks and now its slipping again. i dont know whats wrong. Im very frustrated I wanna ride but I cant because of it.

  20. #620
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    822
    My Falline is due for a lube job. Are you guys taking the whole post out of the seat tube? If so, are you dis-connecting the cable also? Has anyone done a lube with the post still in the seat tube?
    *2018 Pivot Mach 5.5 Custom Build*
    *2017 Knolly Warden Custom Build*
    *2014 Knolly Endorphin Custom Build*

  21. #621
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Junersun's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Posts
    1,491
    Quote Originally Posted by kevinboyer View Post
    My Falline is due for a lube job. Are you guys taking the whole post out of the seat tube? If so, are you dis-connecting the cable also? Has anyone done a lube with the post still in the seat tube?
    Having it off the bike and on some soft jaws really makes the task easier. The cable mechanism is so easy to detach But I suppose if all your doing is repacking the collar, you could work on it on the bike.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Current Bikes

    2018 Santa Cruz Chameleon 27+
    2016 YT Tues AL
    2016 Banshee Rune

  22. #622
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    822
    Quote Originally Posted by Junersun View Post
    Having it off the bike and on some soft jaws really makes the task easier. The cable mechanism is so easy to detach But I suppose if all your doing is repacking the collar, you could work on it on the bike.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Thanks for the tips. I couldn't get it to break loose at all by hand and I don't own a strap wrench, so I'll get one and try again.
    *2018 Pivot Mach 5.5 Custom Build*
    *2017 Knolly Warden Custom Build*
    *2014 Knolly Endorphin Custom Build*

  23. #623
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    285
    I leave it on. The seatpost is a great counteracting force to the strap wrench

  24. #624
    mtbr member
    Reputation: reamer41's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    736
    Can anyone recommend a substitute for the P10L grease? I would buy it from 9point8 but 12.95 shipping for a 4$ thimble of grease?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    --Reamer

  25. #625
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    822
    Quote Originally Posted by reamer41 View Post
    Can anyone recommend a substitute for the P10L grease? I would buy it from 9point8 but 12.95 shipping for a 4$ thimble of grease?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Check this thread out....

    Fall Line Service
    *2018 Pivot Mach 5.5 Custom Build*
    *2017 Knolly Warden Custom Build*
    *2014 Knolly Endorphin Custom Build*

  26. #626
    mtbr member
    Reputation: reamer41's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    736
    Quote Originally Posted by kevinboyer View Post
    Check this thread out....

    Fall Line Service
    Thanks!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    --Reamer

  27. #627
    mtbr member
    Reputation: dRjOn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    2,350
    i see wolftooth have a specific fall line ReMote now....suggestion seems to be a slightly different cable pull/pressure so the release and brake mechanism works optimally?

  28. #628
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    124
    Quote Originally Posted by dRjOn View Post
    i see wolftooth have a specific fall line ReMote now....suggestion seems to be a slightly different cable pull/pressure so the release and brake mechanism works optimally?
    Actually it is a 9point8 lever that is manufactured by Wolf Tooth and available through 9point8. It is based on Wolf Tooths ReMote lever, but the lever is longer giving more leverage and the travel stops are adjusted so the lever has more travel to assure the brake reset function can be achieved. So all the great features of the ReMote but optimized for use with DropLoc posts like 9point8's Fall Line and the RaceFace/Easton Turbine and Haven.

  29. #629
    mtbr member
    Reputation: bikeguy0's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    299
    I ordered the new lever and should be here next week. I have the Wolftooth version on two bikes right now and it is great but the changes sounded like they would be nice so I ordered it.
    My Team: Feedback Sports Racing

  30. #630
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    347
    Quote Originally Posted by JackP42 View Post
    Actually it is a 9point8 lever that is manufactured by Wolf Tooth and available through 9point8. It is based on Wolf Tooths ReMote lever, but the lever is longer giving more leverage and the travel stops are adjusted so the lever has more travel to assure the brake reset function can be achieved. So all the great features of the ReMote but optimized for use with DropLoc posts like 9point8's Fall Line and the RaceFace/Easton Turbine and Haven.
    oh thats good to know the new 9point8 wolftooth lever is actually different from the normal wolftooth remote lever. i might try it now.

    do you know if the new 9point8 wolftooth lever is matchmaker or sram clamp compatible? i hate the stock/old 9point8 lever because it isn't matchmaker compatible

    edit: nm, i just looked on the 9point8 website and it says the new digit is matchmaker compatible.
    Last edited by useport80; 04-07-2017 at 01:54 PM. Reason: im stupid
    2017 yeti sb6c turq x01 eagle

  31. #631
    change is good
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    2,594
    The original Wolftooth ReMote works great. Plus, the picture of the wolf on the trigger is boss.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

  32. #632
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    20
    Heading to Moab next week by car, but I live at sea level and thus my Fall Line uses sea level air in the chamber. Should I depressurize the post before I leave home and do the same when leaving Moab?

  33. #633
    Ride Fast Take Chances :)
    Reputation: alexbn921's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    1,683
    Quote Originally Posted by dngr View Post
    Heading to Moab next week by car, but I live at sea level and thus my Fall Line uses sea level air in the chamber. Should I depressurize the post before I leave home and do the same when leaving Moab?
    LOL. The air is dryer there too so you'll need to moisten it.
    No you don't have to change your air out.

  34. #634
    Goat Wrangler
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Posts
    168
    Quote Originally Posted by dngr View Post
    Heading to Moab next week by car, but I live at sea level and thus my Fall Line uses sea level air in the chamber. Should I depressurize the post before I leave home and do the same when leaving Moab?
    9point8 can weigh in if they'd like, but my understanding is that their posts have will self-equilibrate if you fully depress the lever (further than you would in normal use) once you get to your destination. It certainly wouldn't hurt- and is easy enough to do.

  35. #635
    Slovakia (Europe)
    Reputation: PeterG's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    665
    Isn't that rather thermal compensation of brake fuid expansion rather than air pressure equalization? In the mountains air pressure changes by ca. 8mbar (0.008 bar) for each 100 m of altitude raise/decline (i.e. ca. 0.08 bar/1000m), which is negligible compared to 2 bar (ca. 29 psi) of the seatpost air pressure.

  36. #636
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    124
    Quote Originally Posted by dngr View Post
    Heading to Moab next week by car, but I live at sea level and thus my Fall Line uses sea level air in the chamber. Should I depressurize the post before I leave home and do the same when leaving Moab?
    You don't need to vent the post for shipping. The only reason to adjust the air pressure is if there is a significant temperature change. For example setting the air pressure at room temperature and then riding at below freezing is enough of a temperature difference that the air pressure will noticeably be affected and the post will return slower or possibly not completely.
    Have fun in Moab. Trails there are awesome!

  37. #637
    mtbr member
    Reputation: rollertoaster's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    1,157
    I really want to love this post, it checks all my boxes. 200mm of drop, mechanical cable actuation, microadjust saddle angle, and the ability to remove the saddle without losing the angle setting. Unfortunately my post has been plagued by problems from the start. After the first ride it had leaked down to nothing in the air spring. A couple rides later the brake started slipping and a "brake reset" did not remedy the issue. I was forced to disassemble the post to clean contamination off the brake and out of the air chamber. A few rides later the brake started slipping again, no way in hell the contamination came from the pump this time , as I have switched to a separate previously unused shock pump to use exclusively on this post. Now for the last straw, last night I felt a grinding sensation while lowering the saddle and the stanchion has 2 large scratches which have somehow occurred from the internals of the post.

    I have been in posession of this post for under a month, while injured, so it has seen only a handful of rides. I have emailed the company 4 times (beginning with the first time it leaked) since buying the post and have received not one reply. Facebook messenger, no reply. Posts on their page, no reply. Phone call, no answer and so far no call back. This is probably the worst experience I have ever had with a bike part.
    Team _________

  38. #638
    mtbr member
    Reputation: bikeguy0's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    299
    Quote Originally Posted by rollertoaster View Post
    I really want to love this post, it checks all my boxes. 200mm of drop, mechanical cable actuation, microadjust saddle angle, and the ability to remove the saddle without losing the angle setting. Unfortunately my post has been plagued by problems from the start. After the first ride it had leaked down to nothing in the air spring. A couple rides later the brake started slipping and a "brake reset" did not remedy the issue. I was forced to disassemble the post to clean contamination off the brake and out of the air chamber. A few rides later the brake started slipping again, no way in hell the contamination came from the pump this time , as I have switched to a separate previously unused shock pump to use exclusively on this post. Now for the last straw, last night I felt a grinding sensation while lowering the saddle and the stanchion has 2 large scratches which have somehow occurred from the internals of the post.

    I have been in posession of this post for under a month, while injured, so it has seen only a handful of rides. I have emailed the company 4 times (beginning with the first time it leaked) since buying the post and have received not one reply. Facebook messenger, no reply. Posts on their page, no reply. Phone call, no answer and so far no call back. This is probably the worst experience I have ever had with a bike part.
    I'm starting to wonder as well. I just got one of my posts back for what I assume was contamination on the brake. Same issue with no calls back, no responses to emails and social media. The only way I was able to get a response was the online chat function and they were very helpful. You should try that but I'm getting a little worried as well with the communication or lack thereof.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    My Team: Feedback Sports Racing

  39. #639
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Posts
    253
    Quote Originally Posted by rollertoaster View Post
    I really want to love this post, it checks all my boxes. 200mm of drop, mechanical cable actuation, microadjust saddle angle, and the ability to remove the saddle without losing the angle setting. Unfortunately my post has been plagued by problems from the start. After the first ride it had leaked down to nothing in the air spring. A couple rides later the brake started slipping and a "brake reset" did not remedy the issue. I was forced to disassemble the post to clean contamination off the brake and out of the air chamber. A few rides later the brake started slipping again, no way in hell the contamination came from the pump this time , as I have switched to a separate previously unused shock pump to use exclusively on this post. Now for the last straw, last night I felt a grinding sensation while lowering the saddle and the stanchion has 2 large scratches which have somehow occurred from the internals of the post.

    I have been in posession of this post for under a month, while injured, so it has seen only a handful of rides. I have emailed the company 4 times (beginning with the first time it leaked) since buying the post and have received not one reply. Facebook messenger, no reply. Posts on their page, no reply. Phone call, no answer and so far no call back. This is probably the worst experience I have ever had with a bike part.
    Bummer!!! What a drag to have issues so soon!

    I have had a few relatively minor issues with my 175mm, but every time I call them up on the phone I usually get someone right away, and they have been very generous with providing a solution to each issue free of charge. Try calling, I haven't used email or FB, maybe those don't work as well with them.

    I'd be very surprised if they didn't get you sorted out quickly once you get a hold of them.

    Good luck!

  40. #640
    mtbr member
    Reputation: rollertoaster's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    1,157
    the online chat has been offline every time I have checked. they refuse to reply or offer any assistance
    Team _________

  41. #641
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Posts
    7
    Quote Originally Posted by rollertoaster View Post
    the online chat has been offline every time I have checked. they refuse to reply or offer any assistance
    Emailed for new business over the weekend. So far no response from 9point8. I share your frustration....


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  42. #642
    Ride Fast Take Chances :)
    Reputation: alexbn921's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    1,683
    Quote Originally Posted by locktonimage View Post
    Emailed for new business over the weekend. So far no response from 9point8. I share your frustration....


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    A lot of the bike industry is crazy busy right now getting ready for the Sea Otter Classic. I bet that mid next week when everyone is back and they have unpacked things will get back to normal.

  43. #643
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    347
    Quote Originally Posted by locktonimage View Post
    Emailed for new business over the weekend. So far no response from 9point8. I share your frustration....


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    really? wow. i emailed them on friday regarding my new 9point8 digit remote and they got back to me within 2-3 days
    2017 yeti sb6c turq x01 eagle

  44. #644
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    347
    here's the 9point8 digit with the matchmaker

    9point8 Fall Line Dropper Post. Totally happy with mine!-20170418_172613.jpg
    2017 yeti sb6c turq x01 eagle

  45. #645
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Posts
    99
    9point8 customer service has disappeared over this last month. In the past I would get a reply from them within 24 hours. They had fantastic customer service. Left them emails twice over the last month with no reply at all. Anyone else experiencing this problem? Hope it is only a temporary problem

  46. #646
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    357
    Quote Originally Posted by gorgebiker View Post
    9point8 customer service has disappeared over this last month. In the past I would get a reply from them within 24 hours. They had fantastic customer service. Left them emails twice over the last month with no reply at all. Anyone else experiencing this problem? Hope it is only a temporary problem
    Ive left them numerous emails over the past 6 months an never received a response...

    That said, i have the post and luv it, little worried if i have problems.

  47. #647
    change is good
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    2,594
    They were having issues with their email. It has been corrected.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

  48. #648
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    481
    I have been running a 150mm Fall Line for about a year and a half and have been very happy with it. My only gripe was that the lever force was higher than I liked. Yesterday I replaced the inner and outer cable with Shimano housing and it is MUCH better. Noticeably less force required at the lever and much smoother action. I wish I had done this sooner!

  49. #649
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    347
    can anyone recommend a good strap wrench to help me service the dropper. I have a cassette tool but need help getting the collar part off

    Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
    2017 yeti sb6c turq x01 eagle

  50. #650
    Ride Fast Take Chances :)
    Reputation: alexbn921's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    1,683
    Craftsman 2-piece 16" Rubber Strap Wrench Set with Plastic Handles
    Sears.com

  51. #651
    SoCal mtbr
    Reputation: arashi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    285
    Quote Originally Posted by useport80 View Post
    can anyone recommend a good strap wrench to help me service the dropper. I have a cassette tool but need help getting the collar part off

    Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
    I picked up one of these Klein 6in strap wrenches and they work great. They have a nice rubber or silacone strap that grips really well and they are smaller than those plastic ones I've tried before. They are made in the USA too which is nice.

    Klein Tools 6 in. Grip-it Strap Wrench S-6H at The Home Depot - Mobile

  52. #652
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Posts
    7
    If the brake is slipping can we confirm the only fix is warranty replacement or a new brake part. Ie there is no user serviceable item on the brake?
    Last edited by locktonimage; 05-28-2017 at 07:20 AM.

  53. #653
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    83
    I've had well over a year of no problems with my 150 dropper, but yesterday whilst riding my seat turned like the head/clamp was unscrewing from the top of the post. I just turned it back and it tightened up again but it unscrewed a couple more times during the ride. I had a couple of crashes in the past where the seat got turned and I just knocked it straight again and not had any problem since until yesterday. Apart from the head unscrewing the post is working fine.

    So, is the seat head/clamp just screwed onto the top of the post? Can I unscrew it completely and apply some strong locktite and screw it back on? Anyone else had this issue?
    Last edited by trail-blazer; 05-28-2017 at 07:24 AM. Reason: Spelling

  54. #654
    mtbr member
    Reputation: kragu's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    2,520

    9point8 Fall Line Dropper Post. Totally happy with mine!

    Anyone had this issue? Not just marks, these are grooves. Had the post for less than 2 months.


  55. #655
    Ride Fast Take Chances :)
    Reputation: alexbn921's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    1,683
    Quote Originally Posted by locktonimage View Post
    If the brake is slipping can we confirm the only fix is warranty replacement or a new brake part. Ie there is no user serviceable item on the brake?
    Have you tried a brake reset? You want to do it at the point where it slips as this will be the widest point inside the post. Another possibility is that grease has migrated down onto the brake. In that case cleaning it and the inner tube with alcohol will fix the slipping.

  56. #656
    mtbr member
    Reputation: bikeguy0's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    299
    Quote Originally Posted by kragu View Post
    Anyone had this issue? Not just marks, these are grooves. Had the post for less than 2 months.

    Holy Crap man!! Something scratched it. That sucks. I'm surprised it isn't leaking air. Probably going to need a new stanchion.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    My Team: Feedback Sports Racing

  57. #657
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    124
    Quote Originally Posted by kragu View Post
    Anyone had this issue? Not just marks, these are grooves. Had the post for less than 2 months.

    Contact customer service and they can get the problem sorted for you.

  58. #658
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    124
    trail-blazer, you should not use an anaerobic thread locker like Loctite products as the off gassing of the thread locker as it cures is very harmful to the brake inside the post and will cause it to rapidly fail.
    The head flange is torqued to 100 ft-lbs torque and head with a high strength epoxy. It will be challenging to do this without putting components in the post at risk.
    I would recommend you contact customer service and they can take care of getting the flange issue corrected.
    Last edited by JackP42; 05-29-2017 at 07:34 AM.

  59. #659
    mtbr member
    Reputation: kragu's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    2,520
    Quote Originally Posted by JackP42 View Post
    Contact customer service and they can get the problem sorted for you.
    Is this likely to cost me, in your experience? Fairly certain I've done nothing to warrant the damage.

  60. #660
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    124
    Quote Originally Posted by kragu View Post
    Is this likely to cost me, in your experience? Fairly certain I've done nothing to warrant the damage.
    Without taking the post apart and determining the cause, it is hard to say. Speculation doesn't really add value at this point. It's free to contact customer service and start a discussion on how to get issue resolved.

  61. #661
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    83
    Quote Originally Posted by JackP42 View Post
    trail-blazer, you should not use an anaerobic thread locker like Loctite products as the off gassing of the thread locker as it cures is very harmful to the brake inside the post and will cause it to rapidly fail.
    The head flange is torqued to 100 ft-lbs torque and head with a high strength epoxy. It will be challenging to do this without putting components in the post at risk.
    I would recommend you contact customer service and they can take care of getting the flange issue corrected.
    Thanks for the response. I'll get in touch with their service people. Hopefully I can do a temporary fix to get me through the summer as I'd hate to have to send it in and be without the post for a couple of weeks at the start of the season.

    Perhaps instead of epoxy they could use a pin to secure the head to the tube. It could be designed that the pin shears in a crash to save the post after which it could easily be replaced by the dropper owner.

  62. #662
    mtbr member
    Reputation: kitejumping's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    543
    Anyone have problems with it not holding air for more than 24 hours?

  63. #663
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    83
    Just want to give 9point8 a big thumbs up.

    So I sent 9point8 customer service an email today explaining my problem I experienced with the head flange unscrewing on the post stanchion last weekend (see my post above) and asked if there was any DIY fix I could do to avoid me having to send back the post and miss out on riding for a couple of weeks till it gets turned around.

    I got a phone call within 4 hours from them giving me a solution on how to repair my post. It's not an easy process from the sound of it and is most likely temporary and I'm not sure I'll attempt it yet but I'm really impressed with their service and for getting back to me so quick, let alone offering me a solution. They could so easily just have said to send it back. That would certainly have been the easy option for them, especially since the repair wouldn't be covered by warranty

    Well done.

  64. #664
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    7
    I use Dow Molykote 55 O-Ring Grease for my 9point8 dropper as well as my shock and fork. It is expensive, but the 5 oz tube has lasted years, you dont need much. This is an industrial grease that is made specifically for this type of application. The Molykote 55 is good for -80 to 350F. I also use it on the bushings and pins inside the dropper.

    I use this grease alone and nothing else for this dropper. DONT use oil in the relube process or on the post, I had put a drop of Fox float on there once and that made its way into the brake area and had to clean and rebuild the dropper after that.

    You have to be very careful since this dropper design is very sensitive to the lubricants, it is easy for oil/grease to get into the inner parts and one drop of oil in there and the internal brake wont keep the seat up anymore.


    Quote Originally Posted by reamer41 View Post
    Can anyone recommend a substitute for the P10L grease? I would buy it from 9point8 but 12.95 shipping for a 4$ thimble of grease?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  65. #665
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    7
    I had the same problem. One easy way to find out is to put air in it (about 50 psi) and put some water with dishsoap around the main dust wiper on the stem and see if it bubbles. When mine leaked, it leaked past the x-ring and vented through the dust seal with bubbles forming there. The other o-rings are static and would not fail as quickly. Mine failed in less than a year of it being new, I replaced it myself than having to get it warrantied.

    You can go to the 9.8 website and they have instructions on how to replace the x-ring. You can buy a replacement seal kit or buy a similar seal for cheap, it is size -213 X-ring (aka dash 213).

    I use Molykote 55 o-ring grease instead of the 9.8 grease they sell.

  66. #666
    mtbr member
    Reputation: reamer41's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    736
    Quote Originally Posted by crondula View Post
    I use Dow Molykote 55 O-Ring Grease for my 9point8 dropper as well as my shock and fork. It is expensive, but the 5 oz tube has lasted years, you dont need much. This is an industrial grease that is made specifically for this type of application. The Molykote 55 is good for -80 to 350F. I also use it on the bushings and pins inside the dropper.

    ......
    Thanks for the tip! I'll pick some up.
    --Reamer

  67. #667
    Slovakia (Europe)
    Reputation: PeterG's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    665
    Quote Originally Posted by crondula View Post
    I use Dow Molykote 55 O-Ring Grease for my 9point8 dropper as well as my shock and fork...
    Quoted from the datasheet:
    "Molykote ® 55 O-ring Grease is a silicone-based material that helps ensure positive lubrication and sealing by slightly swelling rubber O-rings and seals..."
    "COMPATIBILITY: Molykote ® 55 O-Ring Grease has been hown to swell natural rubber. However, compatibility of the lubricant may vary with the plasticizer content of specific materials (especially elastomers). Small-scale compatibility testing should be conducted prior to the use of this product in any application. ..."
    Maybe good for 9point8, but I'm not sure about shock and fork.

  68. #668
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Posts
    1,630
    I'll just add that I'm very happy with my 9point8 post.

    It's been working perfectly so far.
    Riding Washington State singletrack since 1986

  69. #669
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    173
    Any updates on the scratched post? I found a similar scratch on my post, but doesn't look as bad as kragu's (see pic above), my scratch does not seem to affect performance at all but I was wondering.

  70. #670
    Ride Fast Take Chances :)
    Reputation: alexbn921's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    1,683
    Quote Originally Posted by monts View Post
    Any updates on the scratched post? I found a similar scratch on my post, but doesn't look as bad as kragu's (see pic above), my scratch does not seem to affect performance at all but I was wondering.
    contact customer support. It will only get worse.
    What size it yours?

  71. #671
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    173
    9point8 Fall Line Dropper Post. Totally happy with mine!-img_0394.jpg

  72. #672
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    173
    It's kind of hard to see and I can't feel it when running fingers over it but I do visibly see it.

  73. #673
    mtbr member
    Reputation: steve650b's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Posts
    28
    I am looking at getting the new digit remote but I kinda like the grip on the wolf tooth one. Has anyone tried both on the fall line? Is the digit that much better in terms of the lever throw?

  74. #674
    mtbr member
    Reputation: bikeguy0's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    299
    Quote Originally Posted by steve650b View Post
    I am looking at getting the new digit remote but I kinda like the grip on the wolf tooth one. Has anyone tried both on the fall line? Is the digit that much better in terms of the lever throw?
    I have both including the light action wolftooth. I like the digit better.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    My Team: Feedback Sports Racing

  75. #675
    mtbr member
    Reputation: steve650b's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Posts
    28
    Cool, thanks. Is the feel of it a little different than the wolf tooth one?
    I am currently using their normal thumb lever and don't like how far the lever needs to be pushed.

  76. #676
    mtbr member
    Reputation: bikeguy0's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    299
    Quote Originally Posted by steve650b View Post
    Cool, thanks. Is the feel of it a little different than the wolf tooth one?
    I am currently using their normal thumb lever and don't like how far the lever needs to be pushed.
    Well the light action and digit both have longer arms so they have to be pushed further than the standard lever but it makes it a lighter feel. If you don't like how long the lever has to be pushed with the light action lever the digit isn't going to be any better.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    My Team: Feedback Sports Racing

  77. #677
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Junersun's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Posts
    1,491
    Good idea, don't like the look. I'll just use my mudhugger and call it done.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Current Bikes

    2018 Santa Cruz Chameleon 27+
    2016 YT Tues AL
    2016 Banshee Rune

  78. #678
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    679
    Actually it doesn't have to be pushed that much, or it doesn't feel like it. It's about 7-8mm pull, that's all the dropper needs. Have a bit more info about the Digit here:
    https://youtu.be/9-dCxhVg-iI

    Quote Originally Posted by bikeguy0 View Post
    Well the light action and digit both have longer arms so they have to be pushed further than the standard lever but it makes it a lighter feel. If you don't like how long the lever has to be pushed with the light action lever the digit isn't going to be any better.
    2016 Transition Smuggler
    2016 TREK Fuel EX 9

  79. #679
    Keep on Rockin...
    Reputation: Miker J's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Posts
    4,945
    So, any reason other than the 170-200mm option, to go with the 9.8 over the Fox Transfer?

    I need a second post and can live with 150mm. My current 150mm Transfer is flawless after many miles. My Spec post and GD are good too but not enough travel.

  80. #680
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Junersun's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Posts
    1,491
    Quote Originally Posted by Miker J View Post
    So, any reason other than the 170-200mm option, to go with the 9.8 over the Fox Transfer?

    I need a second post and can live with 150mm. My current 150mm Transfer is flawless after many miles. My Spec post and GD are good too but not enough travel.
    I have a few friends who have had problems with their fox which makes me not want to get one.

    I'm still going strong on the 9.8 but I'm pretty sure on my next build I'm going to give the Revive a try!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Current Bikes

    2018 Santa Cruz Chameleon 27+
    2016 YT Tues AL
    2016 Banshee Rune

  81. #681
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    679
    Quote Originally Posted by Miker J View Post
    So, any reason other than the 170-200mm option, to go with the 9.8 over the Fox Transfer?
    I need a second post and can live with 150mm. My current 150mm Transfer is flawless after many miles. My Spec post and GD are good too but not enough travel.
    Well for one 9.8 is not a hydraulic dropper but a mechanical one (Easton and RaceFace licensed their tech). Fox is hydraulic like all the other ones, whether they use a sealed cartridge or not.
    Service is easier on the mechanical ones, check the 9.8 site for all the parts available.
    2016 Transition Smuggler
    2016 TREK Fuel EX 9

  82. #682
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Posts
    84
    My 9.8 was bad out of the box. I liked it a lot, but temp changes would make the brake not function at all. We thought we had fixed it with cable tension, but it started acting up. LBS finally said we should send it in. Been running a transfer as a loaner. I'm thinking about keeping the transfer.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  83. #683
    mtbr member
    Reputation: reamer41's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    736
    I just installed another Fall Line. I've got two, this was for my wife's bike.

    Gotta have free play in the cable. Other than that they've all been trouble free and easy to set up.
    --Reamer

  84. #684
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    679
    Quote Originally Posted by benyl View Post
    My 9.8 was bad out of the box. I liked it a lot, but temp changes would make the brake not function at all. We thought we had fixed it with cable tension, but it started acting up. LBS finally said we should send it in. Been running a transfer as a loaner. I'm thinking about keeping the transfer.
    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Temp swings is one of the reasons for the 9.8 FL to get a brake reset. Once you do that you should be just fine. What kind of issue were you experiencing? Sagging or not engaging? Brake reset should have solved that I think.
    2016 Transition Smuggler
    2016 TREK Fuel EX 9

  85. #685
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    679
    Hey all I'm still working on the review and install vid but here is what comes with the Fall Line dropper. I ordered it with the new Digit remote, a small upcharge from the ThumB/ standard remote
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9iCpMLdQk3w
    2016 Transition Smuggler
    2016 TREK Fuel EX 9

  86. #686
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    347
    Quote Originally Posted by Miker J View Post
    So, any reason other than the 170-200mm option, to go with the 9.8 over the Fox Transfer?

    I need a second post and can live with 150mm. My current 150mm Transfer is flawless after many miles. My Spec post and GD are good too but not enough travel.
    i heard that customers can't service the fox transfer dropper and that it has to be sent into fox for service due to the nitrogen cartridge. at least thats what the fox customer service rep told me. not sure if there is some other way that customers can service it.
    2017 yeti sb6c turq x01 eagle

  87. #687
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    679
    Finally got around to finishing the installation and review of the dropper, very happy with the performance after using it for a couple of weeks. Looking forward to testing the 4 season performance but so far so good. Lots of details, I included as much as I could in here. Still fresh in my mind so ask me any questions.
    https://youtu.be/1gKp7RD-nAA
    2016 Transition Smuggler
    2016 TREK Fuel EX 9

  88. #688
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    1,257
    Here to add some data and guidance on slipping issues.

    I have a 175mm post that worked great for a year, and then wouldn't hold at full drop. I tried brake resets, new cable and housing, but it was still slipping.

    I then pulled the brake out of the post and found some greasy contaminants on the brake assembly. As mentioned earlier, this could have come from a shock pump that had some lubricant on the fitting, perhaps from my fork air chamber, which subsequently was injected inside my post when I was topping it up with air. Or maybe I was being to aggressive with lubrication of the nut seal.

    Anyway, I first tried rubbing down the braking mechanism and inside of the post with isopropyl and a bunch of clean shop towels taped to a wooden dowel. The result was slight reduction in slipping, but still not perfect.

    I then tried some Maxima Suspension Clean: https://www.amazon.com/Maxima-Suspen...spension+clean

    ... hosing down the brake and inside of the post, then getting after it with paper towels, and this solved my problem. The Suspension Clean is a magical product that leaves no residue, and gets everything squeaky clean. Be advised that it has a potent urinal lozenge order, and further, it got me high as a kite in my work space. Ventilation is a good idea when cleaning, unless you're in to doing mind altering substances in truck stop bathrooms.

    As far as maintenance goes, I f'ing hate unscrewing the seal nut. They really need to put wrench flats on it for v3. What works best for me in the southwest is another Maxima product: Maxima SC1 Silicone Detailer | MotoSport

    I spray it on, let it cure for about a minute, then wipe it down with a pair of old undies. It repels dust and makes it easier to wash off mud. I use it everywhere on my bike, excluding braking surfaces.

    Cheers.

  89. #689
    used to be RipRoar
    Reputation: TraxFactory's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 1999
    Posts
    2,043
    Quote Originally Posted by half_man_half_scab View Post
    Here to add some data and guidance on slipping issues.
    That is good to know about that cleaner, thanks for posting..

  90. #690
    fuggansonofahowa
    Reputation: Hawseman's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    972
    Great post, h_m_h_s. I had similar experience and pulled the brake assembly. I assumed the brake cartridge had leaked. The contamination was oily and plentiful. 9p8 was great and sent a replacement brake assembly. I cleaned the hell out of the brake tube and all is well for the past 6 months.
    But I especially want to thank you for the Maxima Suspension Clean suggestion. The local office supply stores are asking for ID when purchasing compressed air cleaners. This sounds like a good alternative to bath salts too. Happy riding!

    p.s. - f'in seal nut. It's hard to deal with, and because it is, I often pinch and destroy the o-ring.

  91. #691
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Posts
    253
    I recently picked up a KS Carbon 175mm dropper and put it on my second bike. I have the 175 Fall Line on my other bike. I have dozens of rides on the KS and not once have I had to do anything to it, it just keeps working 100%. I forgot how nice that freedom is! The 9point8 loses it's air after every 8-10 rides, even lubing every other time. Usually it loses it during the middle of a ride too. It's really a drag to have to deal with. I had to put a new seal on after just a few months, and now the new one is leaking just 10 rides in. I've never had so much trouble with a dropper, even my old reverb! Now that KS has a lighter and actually well working alternative it might be time to switch both bikes over! Sorry guys but the product seems to be critically flawed. The maintenance requirement is excessive. I hope they can redesign it to work better at some point, the product is solid in all other aspects and CS is unbeatable. Going to miss it some, but not the air loss!

  92. #692
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    481
    That's too bad that you are having issues with your fall line. I have been running mine for 2 years now with zero problems. The only lubing I do is to dribble some tri-flow on top of the nut periodically. This definitely keeps it running smoothly and has never contaminated the brake.

  93. #693
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Posts
    253
    Quote Originally Posted by Skooks View Post
    That's too bad that you are having issues with your fall line. I have been running mine for 2 years now with zero problems. The only lubing I do is to dribble some tri-flow on top of the nut periodically. This definitely keeps it running smoothly and has never contaminated the brake.
    Wish I was one of the lucky ones, I really do otherwise love the post, but their manufacturing and/or assembly processes must not be very consistent then. There are a lot of posts on here about leaking air problems.. some on this page alone. When I raised the issue there was no offer to replace the post with a working one (I was lucky to get a rebuild kit for just the cost of shipping and import fees), and the full rebuild failed in short order just the same. In the end the product and service didn't provide a good solution to me, as the end customer. I wouldn't be switching to KS if the product/service worked, but it didn't. What choices do I have really? Buy another one and take a chance again? No thanks! Enjoy yours, I'm jealous!

  94. #694
    mtbr member
    Reputation: rollertoaster's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    1,157
    I just sent back my second fall line. My original was a complete lemon and failed in several ways within 100 miles.
    The replacement made it about 3 times as long before a stanchion scratch emerged from within. It also had gotten rough to move and leaky.

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
    Team _________

  95. #695
    Hey, a Bright Shiny Thing
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    193
    Yeah, stinks when things don't work. I have a v1 going on two years......first 12 months I did nothing to it. I ride in hot dry and dusty all the time. Zero problems. Finally got around to lubing the seal nut, its so easy to do. Now I do that every few months and its golden.

    Remember, the bad ones you hear about here are the anomalies in my opinion.....You don't usually hear about the ones hat work all the time....and there are plenty of those.

    I will buy another if mine ever goes bad.

  96. #696
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    3,730
    So I ordered a 30.9 x 150 for a custom frame. When the frame arrived I didn't have enough insertion for the post, so I emailed 9.8 about an exchange for a shorter post and they said that it could be exchanged "no problem" for a nominal fee of $65.

    I called and explained that I bought the post directly from 9.8 and that it was unused. The 9.8 employee told me the fee was to cover restocking and a "function test".

    I explained again that the post is new in the box, never connected, unblemished. He said " that's our policy"

    Okay, so I get the idea behind a restocking fee, esp for a product that's returned. What I don't get is charging the same restocking fee for an exchange as you would for a return.

    I have an Easton and a Race Face already, I decided to spring for the more expensive 9.8, but now I'm wondering if it was a mistake.

    Great product I'm sure, but not a good approach to keeping customers. Maybe things ain't so rosy for 9.8 these days.

    I'm feeling spiteful, there are less expensive options...

  97. #697
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    531
    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    I'm feeling spiteful, there are less expensive options...
    Seems like a fair policy for them to implement -- especially since they offer 'free shipping' to US these days. (Nothing is actually 'free').

    You should get over it. Move along. Or don't.

  98. #698
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    3,730
    Quote Originally Posted by CWnSWCO View Post
    Seems like a fair policy for them to implement -- especially since they offer 'free shipping' to US these days. (Nothing is actually 'free').

    You should get over it. Move along. Or don't.
    Think about how that would go over at your LBS. Yeah, it wouldn't fly at my LBS either.

    I'll get over it, I'll pay the 15% extortion fee.

    This is just a heads up for anyone thinking 9.8 doesn't have stinky stools.

  99. #699
    change is good
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    2,594
    Sigh.... I really like their posts but both of my 175s are losing air. Usually have to refill every 3-5 days but the one on my Switchblade will now not hold air for a two hour ride. I'm in Crested Butte this week and forgot to take the one off my other bike to have as a back up. I really like the set back option and the 175 drop. I'm a heavy dude with a 35in inseam so droppers and I don't get along. Like others, I have had issues with annoying gremlins. I'm sure 9.8 will step up to the plate like they have in the past. I need a post now so off to the bike shop to overnight a E13. It's indexed, has less drop, no setback and is heavy but they claim it's simple and tough. F Reverb - V1 failed, V2 creaked. Previous gen Giant - dirt fouled cable too easily and head rotated. KS - will not touch because of CS history. Specialized - do they have a 150? Thomson/Crank Brothers - varied reports of reliability. Will consider the new Fox or Giant if the E13 fails in 3 months which seems to be the max life expectancy of droppers.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

  100. #700
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Posts
    253
    Quote Originally Posted by DrDon View Post
    Sigh.... I really like their posts but both of my 175s are losing air. Usually have to refill every 3-5 days but the one on my Switchblade will now not hold air for a two hour ride. I'm in Crested Butte this week and forgot to take the one off my other bike to have as a back up. I really like the set back option and the 175 drop. I'm a heavy dude with a 35in inseam so droppers and I don't get along. Like others, I have had issues with annoying gremlins. I'm sure 9.8 will step up to the plate like they have in the past. I need a post now so off to the bike shop to overnight a E13. It's indexed, has less drop, no setback and is heavy but they claim it's simple and tough. F Reverb - V1 failed, V2 creaked. Previous gen Giant - dirt fouled cable too easily and head rotated. KS - will not touch because of CS history. Specialized - do they have a 150? Thomson/Crank Brothers - varied reports of reliability. Will consider the new Fox or Giant if the E13 fails in 3 months which seems to be the max life expectancy of droppers.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
    This mirrors my experience with my 175. I find I have to lube it very well and air it up before every ride, then usually makes the ride.... even after doing a full rebuild.

    I have the KS 175 on my other bike, no issues so far.

    If Fox made a 175 I would ditch my 9point8 immediately.

Page 7 of 8 FirstFirst ... 345678 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. 9point8 new dropper post???
    By shirk in forum Components
    Replies: 101
    Last Post: 09-27-2015, 12:01 AM
  2. Replies: 25
    Last Post: 05-14-2015, 02:06 PM
  3. 9Point8 Pulse Dropper Post Review
    By GMONEY80 in forum Fat bikes
    Replies: 13
    Last Post: 06-25-2014, 09:27 AM
  4. Anti-fall line and fall line
    By pixy in forum Trail Building and Advocacy
    Replies: 22
    Last Post: 08-09-2012, 02:00 PM
  5. Not totally happy with my 2x10.
    By Damitletsride! in forum Endurance XC Racing
    Replies: 21
    Last Post: 06-20-2012, 12:17 PM

Members who have read this thread: 315

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •