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  1. #1
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    Spring overhaul, what should I do?

    Now that it seems like the snow is leaving and its getting warming, I think its time to overhaul the bike. I'm just not sure if I'm forgetting anything major, so let me know if I'm forgetting something.

    -clean/lube seat post
    -clean/lube pedals
    -replace brake pads
    -replace brake cables
    -clean/lube v-brakes
    -replace shifter cables
    -clean/lube derailluers
    -clean/wax the frame
    -intense clean/lube of drivetrain
    -cleaning of the rims

    I'm going to let the shop assess my hubs and BB, that's above me.

  2. #2
    MTB, Road, Commuting
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    You've already named off more things than I do on a yearly basis. If they are working well and don't seem damaged or frayed I'll run cables for years. The same with brake pads.

    I'd add check the chain for wear. A worn chain will wear out the cassette & rings so it's best to catch it early.

  3. #3
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    I try not to mess with bearings as long as they turn smoothly and have no play. Not worth the risk of error to me just to prod something that's already working fine. All the more with the sealed bearings everything uses these days.

    Definitely check the chain though. And consider replacing the cable housings as well. Stuff can get in there, especially over the winter, and the cables just don't move like they used to.

  4. #4
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    Check your rims for wear. Winter grit plus V-brakes will wear through them eventually. Better to find a small hole by cleaning/inspecting than to have a rim fail during braking. I had one rim that developed a hole, and another that weakened so that it just folded over when I used a tire iron.

  5. #5
    squish, squish in da fish
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    get a chain and a sprocket checker, best $30 you'll spend. then you won't be putting a worn chain on a good cassette of vise versa. always replace cables and housings as a set.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by KentheKona View Post
    Now that it seems like the snow is leaving and its getting warming, I think its time to overhaul the bike. I'm just not sure if I'm forgetting anything major, so let me know if I'm forgetting something.

    -clean/lube seat post
    -clean/lube pedals
    -replace brake pads
    -replace brake cables
    -clean/lube v-brakes
    -replace shifter cables
    -clean/lube derailluers
    -clean/wax the frame
    -intense clean/lube of drivetrain
    -cleaning of the rims

    I'm going to let the shop assess my hubs and BB, that's above me.
    Forgot the headset the lower bearing can get loaded up with dried salt

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sanath View Post
    I try not to mess with bearings as long as they turn smoothly and have no play. Not worth the risk of error to me just to prod something that's already working fine. All the more with the sealed bearings everything uses these days.

    Definitely check the chain though. And consider replacing the cable housings as well. Stuff can get in there, especially over the winter, and the cables just don't move like they used to.

    Salt gets in behind the bearings and can cause pitting on the shafts and axles....if you have been ridding through salted snow take all the bearings off and clean the shafts.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by bedwards1000 View Post
    You've already named off more things than I do on a yearly basis. If they are working well and don't seem damaged or frayed I'll run cables for years. The same with brake pads.

    I'd add check the chain for wear. A worn chain will wear out the cassette & rings so it's best to catch it early.
    YUp cables last a long time and generally do not fail catastrphically..

    In a salty winter chains should be checked every month or so....and yes a chain checker works just fine.

  9. #9
    I Ride for Donuts
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    I have never lubed a seatpost or waxed a frame. But they don't use salt on the roads here, so...

    x3 on the cable life... I use full length housing, which extends cable life dramatically. I leave enough of a tail so I can cut the tip off, pull the cable out, shoot some carb cleaner through the housing, lightly lube the cable, and put it back in every year or two, whether it needs it or not
    You have no excuse for driving to work
    (unless you don't have studded tires)
    (no excuse for that either)

  10. #10
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    [QUOTE=CommuterBoy;11120254x3 on the cable life... I use full length housing, which extends cable life dramatically. I leave enough of a tail so I can cut the tip off, pull the cable out, shoot some carb cleaner through the housing, lightly lube the cable, and put it back in every year or two, whether it needs it or not [/QUOTE]

    I am about 5 years on the XTR cable with open housings....but it has the little rubber boots.....they say don't lube so I haven't all of the black coating is long gone on the exposed cables...don't now what is going on inside the housings. Still shifting great.

    I ride the MTB to connute so the little tails are long since unravelled and very short.

    Basically unless I change the RD/FD I ignore the cables.

  11. #11
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    I get at least one or two cracked housings every winter, and replace those.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by KentheKona View Post
    Now that it seems like the snow is leaving and its getting warming, I think its time to overhaul the bike. I'm just not sure if I'm forgetting anything major, so let me know if I'm forgetting something.

    -clean/lube seat post
    -clean/lube pedals
    -replace brake pads
    -replace brake cables
    -clean/lube v-brakes
    -replace shifter cables
    -clean/lube derailluers
    -clean/wax the frame
    -intense clean/lube of drivetrain
    -cleaning of the rims

    I'm going to let the shop assess my hubs and BB, that's above me.
    When i first build a bike I tear down ALL components and lube them with, lithium grease, synthetic grease, molykote, different oils. this enables me to pretty much just wipe the bike down 2 times a year and oil the chain.

    If you used the correct lube on the seatpost/frame it last a couple of years imo, I use texaco multifak, and inside the frame i use different sprayable oils. it should be pouring out before assembly.

    Pedal axles can be molycoated when they start creaking.

    Brake pads gets replaced when worn out.

    Cables ona commuter last a couple of years if oiled imo. get the best possible ones from the start too, run full length.

    Lubing the v-brake axles is a good idea.

    The derailleurs gets dirty in about 30mseconds so just wipe them down and oil pivots.

    No need to clean a frame on a commuter imo. Just wipe it down with water and paper

    Cleaning the rims is nice especially when changing tires, I just put mine inflated in the shower and give them a scrub until clean with soap and water.

    The chain and cassette is pretty useless to clean imo, that being said my favorite method for cleaning the chain is dunking it in white spirit (naphta) and then shaking it (don't throw it away, can be used multiple times), then a quick shower with starting gas for cars (ether) different chamical polarity, dissolves different things, then after that acetone. then I dunk it in my special mix and let it sit for an hour. I made a special lube with molycoat, motor oil, hydraulic oil, crc 556, teflon spray and so on. It last me 6 months per treatment!


    That being said. if i were to recommend someone what they should do it would be this: remove ALL nuts and bolts, grease them. Put grease around all entry points into the frame and bearings. Check cranks bearings (clean/relube), and all bolts here, including the chainwheel bolts. Spray oil/grease in the cable housings. Check saddle bolts. Remove, clean and relube headset and steerer tube if steel, check stem bolts. Open hubs and clean/relube if possible. Get some grease into the shifters. Lube brake lever axles and brake axles. Check tension in wheels. Lube chain and derailleur.

    **** lasts forever if maintained properly. If you do it right one time no need to worry for several years imo just some oil here and there and such.

    A small edit: I MUCH prefer stuff that has cup and cone bearings, because you can clean these and relube them easily. headsets, hubs, bottom brackets and so on. If I can avoid cartride bearings I do. Those are disposable and/or a hassle to open/remove imo.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.

    Quote Originally Posted by iheartbicycles View Post
    Specialized sucks ass.

  13. #13
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    Thanks for all the input. The bike is coming up on 3 years old and nothing but the chain and brake pads have been changed, so I figured now was the time to take care of it. Western NY loves their salt, so the bike took a major salt attack even with the fenders.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by KentheKona View Post
    Thanks for all the input. The bike is coming up on 3 years old and nothing but the chain and brake pads have been changed, so I figured now was the time to take care of it. Western NY loves their salt, so the bike took a major salt attack even with the fenders.
    Ouch good luck....I left my seat post for one winter and the damn thing froze up...

    Three years of everyday winter riding without a clean up???

  15. #15
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    first year of winter riding. The first year I was a sunny day rider, 2nd year I got fenders and started riding in light rain. Coming into this third year, I ride in everything and rode through the winter. So maybe its really more like 2 1/2 years of riding. I did pull the seatpost and pedals at the beginning of the winter and hit them with some thick anti-seize grease.

  16. #16
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    Oh snap, you're in Rochester! Internet high five!

    (I'm in Macedon, about 20 miles east of Rochester. Let me know if I can help you out with anything. I've got a few tools. We can check out your bearings if you want.)

  17. #17
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    Do you do any of the local charity rides?

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