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  1. #11601
    Huckin' trails
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    How was your commute today?

    Regarding tubeless and studs, I am considering using some WSS homemade sealant for my DIY studded tires for two main reasons : virtually no chance of flats from screw heads getting past the tire liner and tearing the tube, and at the same time helping to offset the significant added weight of the 250ish some M4x10mm studs by taking out the heavy tire liner and tube.

    My only concern going that route is with sealant's performance in freezing temps and how long it will last too. I hope that the antifreeze used in the WSS mix will greatly improve the working temperature range.

    How was your commute today?-imageuploadedbytapatalk1383158575.148470.jpg

    How was your commute today?-imageuploadedbytapatalk1383158620.997373.jpg

    How was your commute today?-imageuploadedbytapatalk1383158642.562387.jpg
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  2. #11602
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    Quote Originally Posted by TenSpeed View Post
    I don't want pannier bags unless absolutely necessary. Currently using a backpack, but I get the dreaded sweaty back, even in this cooler weather.
    Why no panniers? They make life sooo easy. I use just one, a "grocery pannier" from Banjo Brothers. Had it for years, works great. Very big, but you can collapse it down with the straps when carrying a small (or no) load. Even on my MTB I hate riding with a pack.

    Is there anywhere you could leave clothes at work, like a locker? Leave several changes of clothes at work (and shoes, shoes suck to carry) and take the dirty ones home each evening. You may have to drive every once and a while to drop off more clothes.

    Here's the pannier I was talking about on my rig:


    Yesterday I did a few extra miles. It was beautiful out, sunny and about 78*F, so I headed up the canal towpath a few miles. Still waiting on the leaves to change color...

    Redneck Riviera, currently empty of rednecks.


    Sibley Mill


    The Savannah River was really pretty yesterday.


    "Traffic"

  3. #11603
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    Quote Originally Posted by BrianMc View Post
    In Ontario, Canada, this is called "Guelphing" after Guelph. Being nestled between the Great Lakes makes this a too common thing in the Kitchener-Waterloo & Guelph area. Nice to know it shows up elsewhere. Rode for my BS and MS through a lot of that in that area.
    I actually don't live in Portland but got the term from someone there. I'm in Wisconsin by the Lake Michigan and seem to only get it in spring and fall, but it's way better then rain!

  4. #11604
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    Quote Originally Posted by David C View Post
    Regarding tubeless and studs, I am considering using some WSS homemade sealant for my DIY studded tires for two main reasons : virtually no chance of flats from screw heads getting past the tire liner and tearing the tube, and at the same time helping to offset the significant added weight of the 250ish some M4x10mm studs by taking out the heavy tire liner and tube.

    My only concern going that route is with sealant's performance in freezing temps and how long it will last too. I hope that the antifreeze used in the WSS mix will greatly improve the working temperature range.
    I know you were a regular in my old thread on the subject, but I thought WSS tubeless worked terrifically well for DIY studs. In general, I find tubeless is more hassle than it's worth for my riding conditions. But DIY studs are a perfect reason to use it.

    In 6 months of Canadian winter expect to refresh the sealant at least once though, and twice if you're being proactive. And I always carry a little 2oz bottle in my tool pack for emergency top-ups.

  5. #11605
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    Quote Originally Posted by David C View Post
    My only concern going that route is with sealant's performance in freezing temps and how long it will last too. I hope that the antifreeze used in the WSS mix will greatly improve the working temperature range.
    I use WSS version 1 on my non-studded commuter tires, and have had no issues with temperature. I have the studs on separate wheels, and only use them when there's ice on the pavement, so most of the time I'm on the other tires. My low temp record is 4 below zero (F), and normal winter morning temps are down in the teens (F) through much of Jan/Feb. If anything, it lasts longer in the winter based on my experience. If I had homemade studs with potential screw-tip penetration down to the tubes, I'd run them ghetto tubeless without hesitation.
    You have no excuse for driving to work
    (unless you don't have studded tires)
    (no excuse for that either)

  6. #11606
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    How was your commute today?


    Awesome view from the bridge I cross over to go to my boys appt.


    Downtown Palmetto.

    The middle child feeling lovey with his sister after I arrived.

    I'm taking my new rear wheel into the LBS tomorrow. I purchased it on recommendation a week ago and it's been nothing but trouble. It creaks, won't hold true, and has a wobble at the axle point. Ask me how I feel about that.


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  7. #11607
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    How was your commute today?

    Newfangled and CB, good points and info. I did my first commute on the new studded tire and it's gnarly. Can't wait to hit the ice. The only thing keeping me from going getho tubeless right now is the wire bead tire seating in place on the clincher rim by itself without a tube. For my XC MTB, I had no problem when trying seating my other set on tubeless compatible carbon rims though, but they're not the same profile.

    If I get time to try messing up with this front wheel, I'll try to get the tire to seat and go tubeless. This year I'm trying some class 12.9 steel alloy M4x10mm button head screws, with 4mm sticking out. It's 1pm too long, but if I used 8mm screws, then I would have been 1pm short of the 3mm (or 1/8") ideal stud length.
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  8. #11608
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    Quote Originally Posted by TenSpeed View Post
    What I carry and how I carry is where I am having the issue. Hoping to get some help from the commuters here. I work at a hospital, and I wear hospital scrubs. I take them home and wash them since the service we use washes them with this horrible soap that makes me break out in a rash. So I have scrubs that I roll up to save room, undergarments, fresh socks, athletic shoes, deodorant, basic necessities, etc. I also need to carry my dinner somehow. I don't want pannier bags unless absolutely necessary. Currently using a backpack, but I get the dreaded sweaty back, even in this cooler weather. I don't want to switch to flat pedals, because I am used to riding clipped in, and honestly, I look at the SPD's on there as a bit of a theft deterrent. I also have to carry my Kryptonite U lock. Someone at work leaves their U lock just locked to the rack, which is a pretty genius idea.
    Any possibility of leaving the shoes and necessities at work? I leave shoes and clean-up supplies in my office (and when I had no office left in my locker at work), carrying my scrubs, lunch and personal stuff in my pannier. Leaving the lock on the rack is a good idea too, I left mine on the rack at the last place for just about 3 years and had another at home...worked out very well. If not panniers, maybe a trunk bag or frame bag of some sort? I changed to panniers after trying messenger bags, backpacks and sling bags due to the amount of stuff I carried and have never looked back. Just have to figure out what works best for your situation.

    Evidently I missed a short bit of rain/snow/sleet this morning after I got to work. Still have yet to bust out the tights and winter gear, but tomorrow morning is looking like I might have to as they're predicting low 20s and my knees have been aching from upper 30s. While I'm not looking forward to true winter riding, I am in a way.

  9. #11609
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    Big storm system moving into Indiana today. In spite of the radar showing nothing but rain in my area, I managed to stay fairly dry on the way in this morning. With the temperature of 61 and a south wind at my back, it was a fairly pleasant ride in. This afternoon looks like it might be a little different. Forecast shows 100% chance of rain, thunderstorms and wind gusting to 40mph. I'll be heading right into that.
    Quote Originally Posted by Skrufryder View Post
    Silly rabbit Jack Daniel drinking donkey kissing caterpiller

  10. #11610
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    Standard commute. 39F in the Valley with no wind. 36F with light drizzle in Anchorage. Just working for the weekend at this point.

  11. #11611
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    Finally have to change out the XT 760 crankset...

    The non drive side bearing always wears out about twice as fast as the drive side....

    I get about a year on a bearing set so that means this is my 7 set of bearings...(actually probably about 10 cause I used stock bearings for the first little while)...

    Anyway the axle was also slowly corroding where the non drive side bearing contacts...

    Budddy lent an old bike to a new rider and he broke the same vintage axle just flexing the suspension in the parking lot...

    So I checked mine and I am down to 60% of the remianing wall thickness.

    So an XT crankset will last 7 years of long cold winter commutes and heavy MTB use....That is 44,000 km.

    I got a XT 770 crankset for $215 and free shipping...

    So $0.005 per km

  12. #11612
    Ride Everything
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    Windy and 39f when I left this morning just before 6:30. Discovered that wet leaves + frozen wooden bridge = extreme pucker factor.
    GRAVELBIKE.COM - ride everything

  13. #11613
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    How was your commute today?

    Hey guys, I know this is a bit off-topic, but this morning I'm having a bit of trouble to cope with sad memories and rainy weather and I feel like crap. I have to get working on re-painting a frame and building it up for winter commute, but got zero motivation. How you deal with these days when you can't just go riding the trails ?
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  14. #11614
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    ^^Sorry for the sad memories, feeling icky, and lack of motivation, David, it is very dreary down here today too. Sometimes when I feel like that I just give myself permission to do nothing more than put my feet up and watch a movie for distraction and down time to get better...other times I might take a walk just to get out, and end up feeling better, even if I am re-running those thoughts on the walk. Hope you feel better soon.

  15. #11615
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeffscott View Post
    I got a XT 770 crankset for $215 and free shipping...

    So $0.005 per km
    But that's Canadian dollars and the metric system.... down here that's thousands of dollars per mile.
    You have no excuse for driving to work
    (unless you don't have studded tires)
    (no excuse for that either)

  16. #11616
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    How was your commute today?

    Thanks Mtbx. Good advices.
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  17. #11617
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    Quote Originally Posted by David C View Post
    How you deal with these days when you can't just go riding the trails ?
    This will sound like typical singlespeeder douchebaggery, but for rainy days I genuinely love having a singlespeed street cruiser with slicks and fenders. An hour on that will always improve my mood.

    And now, a tech conundrum:

    1x9 drivetrain, and the chain slips when in the 2 highest/smallest gears. It also very rarely slips in the 3rd highest gear, but in none of the others. When it happens it feels exactly like a chain with a frozen link, but it's not the chain because I've tried a few. In the 2 highest gears it is very regular, occurring ~40 pedal strokes, whether mashing or JRA.

    When I switched to 1x9 I wondered how long the 11&13 tooth cogs would last, but they can't be worn out. It's an xt cassette with maybe 500mi on it. Maybe 500mi, and very little of that riding would have been in those cogs, and none of it would have been crazy mashing. And the fact that it also occasionally happens on the 3rd cog - I couldn't have worn out all 3.

    Chain length is good. Cleaned and greased the pulleys. Cassette is clean, and doesn't have any garbage stuck in it. Played with the cable tension. Played with the b-screw.

    Any suggestions?
    Last edited by newfangled; 10-31-2013 at 01:18 PM.

  18. #11618
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    Quote Originally Posted by newfangled View Post
    When I switched to 1x9 I wondered how long the 11&13 tooth cogs would last, but they can't be worn out. It's an xt cassette with maybe 500mi on it. Maybe 500mi, and very little of that riding would have been in those cogs, and none of it would have been crazy mashing. And the fact that it also occasionally happens on the 3rd cog - I couldn't have worn out all 3.

    Chain length is good. Cleaned and greased the pulleys. Cassette is clean, and doesn't have any garbage stuck in it. Played with the cable tension. Played with the b-screw.

    Any suggestions?
    Sounds like a slightly bent RD hanger

  19. #11619
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeffscott View Post
    Sounds like a slightly bent RD hanger
    That's a possibility, although things sure look straight. The bike co-op is in the process of moving so I haven't been able to check the alignment, and it's a steel frame so I can't just swap on a new one. It will be on the list for next spring if I don't get it figured out.

  20. #11620
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    How was your commute today?

    No ride in for me today. I got fed up with my wheels constantly coming out of alignment and spending hours in my living room trying to true them. So, it's at the shop getting a full tune up. The wife and kids dropped me off at the office this morning, which they love, because they know I'll stop at the gas station and get them a treat. I'm such a sucker sometimes.

    I'm interested to see how the bike comes back. They've always treated me well, and they tend to bend over backward for commuters. Also thinking about picking up a new saddle this weekend. I would prefer to avoid weezer squeezers if possible, since I don't have a place to shower at work, and I like the idea of just jumping on and going, without having to get my special comfy shorts.


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  21. #11621
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    How was your commute today?

    Quote Originally Posted by newfangled View Post
    This will sound like typical singlespeeder douchebaggery, but for rainy days I genuinely love having a singlespeed street cruiser with slicks and fenders. An hour on that will always improve my mood.

    And now, a tech conundrum:

    1x9 drivetrain, and the chain slips when in the 2 highest/smallest gears and very rarely in. It also very rarely slips in the 3rd highest gear, but in none of the others. When it happens it feels exactly like a chain with a frozen link, but it's not the chain because I've tried a few. In the 2 highest gears it is very regular, occurring ~40 pedal strokes, whether mashing or JRA.

    When I switched to 1x9 I wondered how long the 11&13 tooth cogs would last, but they can't be worn out. It's an xt cassette with maybe 500mi on it. Maybe 500mi, and very little of that riding would have been in those cogs, and none of it would have been crazy mashing. And the fact that it also occasionally happens on the 3rd cog - I couldn't have worn out all 3.

    Chain length is good. Cleaned and greased the pulleys. Cassette is clean, and doesn't have any garbage stuck in it. Played with the cable tension. Played with the b-screw.

    Any suggestions?
    I haven't the slightest, but I can say that sounds incredibly annoying and frustrating.


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  22. #11622
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    Re: How was your commute today?

    Quote Originally Posted by newfangled View Post
    This will sound like typical singlespeeder douchebaggery, but for rainy days I genuinely love having a singlespeed street cruiser with slicks and fenders. An hour on that will always improve my mood.

    And now, a tech conundrum:

    1x9 drivetrain, and the chain slips when in the 2 highest/smallest gears and very rarely in. It also very rarely slips in the 3rd highest gear, but in none of the others. When it happens it feels exactly like a chain with a frozen link, but it's not the chain because I've tried a few. In the 2 highest gears it is very regular, occurring ~40 pedal strokes, whether mashing or JRA.

    When I switched to 1x9 I wondered how long the 11&13 tooth cogs would last, but they can't be worn out. It's an xt cassette with maybe 500mi on it. Maybe 500mi, and very little of that riding would have been in those cogs, and none of it would have been crazy mashing. And the fact that it also occasionally happens on the 3rd cog - I couldn't have worn out all 3.

    Chain length is good. Cleaned and greased the pulleys. Cassette is clean, and doesn't have any garbage stuck in it. Played with the cable tension. Played with the b-screw.

    Any suggestions?
    New cassette & chain ?
    Just an idea..........
    always mad and usually drunk......

  23. #11623
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    Quote Originally Posted by cmg71 View Post
    New cassette & chain ?
    Just an idea..........
    I rotate chains every month, and all the chains in my current rotation do the exact same thing. Currently, I'm refusing to try a new cassette on principle.

  24. #11624
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    Quote Originally Posted by newfangled View Post
    I rotate chains every month, and all the chains in my current rotation do the exact same thing. Currently, I'm refusing to try a new cassette on principle.
    Assuming all indexing is fine it's a puzzler. My last one like this was the quick-link separating. But multiple chains leaves the cassette or the RD/Mount. The process of elimination seems the only option.

  25. #11625
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    How was your commute today?

    Quote Originally Posted by newfangled View Post
    I rotate chains every month, and all the chains in my current rotation do the exact same thing. Currently, I'm refusing to try a new cassette on principle.
    By experiencing something similar, but not exactly like yours, I would suggest to take a look at the followings :

    B-screw adjustment
    Chainline alignment
    Hanger alignment
    Cogs alignment (make sure they are stacked flat and parallel on top of each others)

    Good luck !

    Oh, and I am tempted to go out riding the rain, but right now isn't a good time to fool around when everybody is waiting on me for things to get done.
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  26. #11626
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    Quote Originally Posted by BrianMc View Post
    Assuming all indexing is fine it's a puzzler. My last one like this was the quick-link separating. But multiple chains leaves the cassette or the RD/Mount. The process of elimination seems the only option.
    Shifting is fine and snappy. It's weird, because I can ride along for a block between skips. There's no noise, or jumping, or lag, or any indication that there's a problem, and then ca-chunk. I haven't been able to watch it happen, because I can't ride a whole block while looking down at my cassette. I've tried, but I keep looking up just as it skips. And it won't do it with the bike on a stand, or backpedaling.

    I really want to blame my freehub, but I don't know why it would occur every 40ish pedalstrokes, or why it would only affect the smaller cogs (other than something vaguely to do with slightly higher rpms). I found a trick for testing hanger alignment using a spare wheel that I'll try out tonight, but the one time I bent a hanger I sure knew that it needed to be replaced, because nothing worked properly. And failing that it'll grudgingly be a new cassette.

  27. #11627
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    Quote Originally Posted by newfangled View Post
    I really want to blame my freehub, but I don't know why it would occur every 40ish pedalstrokes, or why it would only affect the smaller cogs (other than something vaguely to do with slightly higher rpms). I found a trick for testing hanger alignment using a spare wheel that I'll try out tonight, but the one time I bent a hanger I sure knew that it needed to be replaced, because nothing worked properly. And failing that it'll grudgingly be a new cassette.
    Check wheel bearings (wiggle wheel side to side at the top, and then at the rear....

    Look for bent tooth on the cassette.

    Check for worn or damaged drop outs causing misalignment (will act like slightly bent hanger problem).

    Check rear suspension.

  28. #11628
    Human Test Subject
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    Today someone almost hit me and justified it by saying he didn't want to drive into a parked car. He could have just waited to pass me, but it really puts other peoples value of my life in perspective.

  29. #11629
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    ^^ Well yes, of course, that makes perfect sense, Sir! Next time just flatten me to avoid any paint scratches or miniscule delays!

  30. #11630
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    More "homework" for you Newf...is the cassette on snug? Is the derailleur tired (loosey goosey)?

  31. #11631
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    Quote Originally Posted by David C View Post
    How you deal with these days when you can't just go riding the trails ?
    Ella Fitzgerald.
    And pizza.
    Recalculating....

  32. #11632
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    With the weather cooperating, I made my fifteen mile commute home in 1:13 minutes. Big difference from Monday's windy 2 hour commute. I'm satisfied with this, especially cause I have close to twenty traffic lights to tend with on this route. I can of course count on half of those to work for me at least. Might get me some Big Apples for this bike though, as the 2.3 Panaracer Rampage on the front is certainly adding unneeded resistance. Nice not tending with a seat rack anymore either. Bike mounted racks are the only way to go it would seem. I fastened a crate to it for hauling jackets back and forth. All and all, the Haro is proving a satisfactory commuter.

  33. #11633
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    I was up late last night watching the SOX WIN THE WORLD SERIES and didn't take a good look at the weather. Ended up riding home in the rain today with no fenders and mostly non-waterproof clothing. At least it wasn't too cold, so it wasn't all that bad. I did have the built in rain cover with my new backpack, so that was nice. Worked great.

  34. #11634
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    How was your commute today?

    Well I went trick or treating with my brother, me dressed as a cow and him as a skunk. Had fun under the rain, but still I'm feeling the heart break, even over a year after.

    Hopefully November won't be as bad, but the weather will not improve haha
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  35. #11635
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    How was your commute today?

    Bike is still in the shop. I didn't think it would take this long to true some wheels and do a run through. Oh well, no complaints.


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  36. #11636
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    20 degrees a few mornings in a row followed by a humid 60 degree morning is really screwing with my ability to dress myself.

    This could be fun tonight, glad I didn't bring a light bike.
    * winds... southwest 25 to 30 mph with gusts up to 50 mph.

  37. #11637
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    How was your commute today?

    Yeah it's 15°C here and no wind. Rainy and cloudy, but they are expecting up to 90km/h east winds in the afternoon. Lucky I won't have to test their predictions today.

    For those who have experience with rusted/stuck BB, my brother has '96 GT steel frame and the cartridge BB is rusted in place big time. I suspect it's the stock one, and if so it's been there for almost 20 years. The left side cup is steel, so I can apply decent torque, but it won't move a hair even after soaking in WD40 for 24 hours and using a 5' long breaker bar. The drive side is even worst, the spline notches are plastic and pretty much all busted already, so you can't torque much. I really want to save the frame, but I'm running out of options here. Two last things on my list are to heat the steel or cut a 3/4" long slice under the BB shell with a grinder to try relieving the holding pressure of the frame on the cup.

    Help ?
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  38. #11638
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    Stormy last night on the ride home. The rain wasn't too bad, but the wind was pretty strong. I had a head wind to start and a side wind for the middle portion of my commute. I had to lean hard to my right to stay upright. Perfect conditions this morning.

  39. #11639
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    Quote Originally Posted by bedwards1000 View Post
    20 degrees a few mornings in a row followed by a humid 60 degree morning is really screwing with my ability to dress myself.

    This could be fun tonight, glad I didn't bring a light bike.
    * winds... southwest 25 to 30 mph with gusts up to 50 mph.
    Same here, I was way to hot this morning. The rain was not cold enough to justify the plastic-y rain knickers I chose. I did switch back to the cross bike, which should help a bit in the wind, which is forecast about 5mph less than yours is.

  40. #11640
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    Newf,

    I was gonna say what MTBX said... is the cassette tight on the freehub? I've had similar weird problems that wound up just being a loose lockring on the cassette.


    Quote Originally Posted by David C View Post
    . Two last things on my list are to heat the steel or cut a 3/4" long slice under the BB shell with a grinder to try relieving the holding pressure of the frame on the cup.

    Help ?
    Steel BB in a steel frame? Heat, baby. Lots of stuck bolts on the Jeep have finally given in when I break out the propane torch. Try to heat the BB rather than the frame if you can get at it. Heat, heat, heat, heat, and when you about have it glowing, whack it with a hammer to jar things loose, then try to unthread.
    You have no excuse for driving to work
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    (no excuse for that either)

  41. #11641
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    Yeah, heat- try a hair dryer for fun (if you have one), but a heat gun will be better. I disagree with CB about trying to heat the cartridge rather than the shell. With an inner and an outer anything, the heat actually expands them, so making the outer part bigger is what will loosen it up. I do similar on a regular basis to remove or install bearings at work. Though, in reality, you`re going to end up heating both pretty much equally unless you take a torch to it and toast the paint job. For the stripped splines, I`ve heard a trick (never tried it myself) that sounds like a good idea. If you can get the opposite side out, you can use a long bolt or a piece of threaded rod with two nuts and two big washers. Remove the cartridge and sandwich the shell between nuts and washers, then go to town on the appropriate nut, depending on which direction that cup turns. Or just get one out, change the cartridge from that side, and leave the other in there forever. If you cut the shell, the frame is done.
    Recalculating....

  42. #11642
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    Quote Originally Posted by rodar y rodar View Post
    I disagree with CB about trying to heat the cartridge rather than the shell. With an inner and an outer anything, the heat actually expands them, so making the outer part bigger is what will loosen it up. I do similar on a regular basis to remove or install bearings at work.
    You're on the money, but with Jeep bolts I've had better luck heating the bolt rather than whatever it's stuck in. It makes no sense according to physics. The "extreme measures" way to do it is to heat the heck out of whatever it's threaded into, and then apply dry ice to the bolt head if you can get at it...so in theory, you're expanding the outer part and shrinking the inner part...but you're right, in reality, you're just heating everything probably...plus, who has dry ice laying around?
    You have no excuse for driving to work
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    (no excuse for that either)

  43. #11643
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    Quote Originally Posted by David C View Post
    For those who have experience with rusted/stuck BB, my brother has '96 GT steel frame and the cartridge BB is rusted in place big time. I suspect it's the stock one, and if so it's been there for almost 20 years. The left side cup is steel, so I can apply decent torque, but it won't move a hair even after soaking in WD40 for 24 hours and using a 5' long breaker bar. The drive side is even worst, the spline notches are plastic and pretty much all busted already, so you can't torque much. I really want to save the frame, but I'm running out of options here. Two last things on my list are to heat the steel or cut a 3/4" long slice under the BB shell with a grinder to try relieving the holding pressure of the frame on the cup.

    Help ?

    Lock the bb tool on the cup with a large fender washer and a crankarm bolt, you need this tool- Name:  TL6028._T_.jpg
Views: 105
Size:  4.9 KB, other ones will require a longer than standard (crankarm) bolt. Ideally you want a thick washer that doesn't exceed the diameter of the bb tool so it won't interfere with the wrench fitting on the flats. Hold the spindle on the other side with a crankarm and lock the bb tool on the cup nice and tight. Use either a 32 mm wrench or a good adjustable wrench for the bb tool and find a long, stout cheater bar that will work with it. I've used this-
    How was your commute today?-84d2b5fc9897b4ba1abc244813b5670505336a9d_800x700.jpg
    which is about 3 feet long and very stout but any large pipe should do. Mount the frame on a heavy duty Park repair stand if you have access or have a friend or 2 hold the frame on the floor while you have at it.

    As mentioned above heat wouldn't hurt but I never had to resort to that and I have retired undefeated.

    JB- 1043 ( vague est.) / bottom brackets- 0!

  44. #11644
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    ^^Good idea for locking the removal tool into place. I have a long piece of 5mm allthread that I use to do the same thing for freewheel or cassette tools, but never figured out a way to do it for BBs.

    David, a few more thoughts: first, (you probably already know) be sure you`re not trying to turn the wrong way. Drive side uses left handed threads and the non-drive side uses regularRH threads. Secondly, once you get the booger out, I`d take the frame to a bike shop and get the threads chased. Finally, you did good by giving the WD40 time to soak in, but even after 24 hrs, it`ll still keep working. The logner it sits there, the better your chances are, so have patience.

    Quote Originally Posted by CommuterBoy View Post
    You're on the money, but with Jeep bolts I've had better luck heating the bolt rather than whatever it's stuck in. It makes no sense according to physics. The "extreme measures" way to do it is to heat the heck out of whatever it's threaded into, and then apply dry ice to the bolt head if you can get at it...so in theory, you're expanding the outer part and shrinking the inner part...but you're right, in reality, you're just heating everything probably...plus, who has dry ice laying around?
    Ah, that old theory V reality problem
    I think what happens is that you actually end up heating both parts- often impossible to avoid, but it seems to work to an extent anyways. As for cold, nothing we do warrants that, but I know it`s used for pressing a small part into something big, like valve guides into an engine block. The amount of expansion you can get by heating is surprising. We have an fancy-pants induction heater at work that automatically heats a bearing until the inner race is at 140 C. Then you grab it with thick heat resistant gloves and can push it right onto a shaft with your hands, and can even rotate the race easilly to make sure it`s seated. Within seconds, the shaft starts sucking the heat from the bearing and it freezes on as if it were welded in place. Very neat.
    Recalculating....

  45. #11645
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    How was your commute today?

    Thanks all for the tips.

    First, I did let it soak 24 hours in WD40, but may try to let it sit for 40-60 hours.

    Second, thanks for the reminder on the rotation rule, although I'm good with that already.

    Third, I have the top of line Park wall mounted repair stand, the BBT-32 and a nice 1 1/4" wrench to fit over, plus I already got my stack of thick washers and crank arm bolt to lock it in place. I had the frame down on the ground, wrench in parallel to ground plus 2° upward for optimal down force, then over the big wrench I had a 5' heavy steel pipe and nothing moved at all. If I was going a bit more, the BB tool was going to snap.

    Now, I think the heat might be the best option right now, I have everything from a heavy duty heat gun to a propane torch and I don't mind burning the paint off the BB area since it's easy to re-paint afterward anyway.

    Like I said, it's a standard square taper sealed cartridge BB, except that it has steel left cup and plastic notches for the BB body on the right side. So I don't have a choice but to at least loosen/remove the left cup in order to free the whole BB cartridge and get a new one in. I will definitively get the threads chased afterwards and get something like LX or XT cartridge since they have all strong metal cups and use plenty of waterproof grease too (usually white lithium grease).

    Since I never attempted to heat a stuck BB, using a propane torch, what should I be looking for to know when it's hot enough in there ?
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  46. #11646
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    How was your commute today?

    When it's red and glowy


    Tradere Scriptura Magister
    Bourbon: Because no good story ever started with "So, there we were eating salads".

  47. #11647
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    Quote Originally Posted by David C View Post
    Since I never attempted to heat a stuck BB, using a propane torch, what should I be looking for to know when it's hot enough in there ?
    If you don't care about the paint, I'd blast the BB shell with the propane torch for a long time... even if you get it glowing you shouldn't deform it.

    It's hot enough when the BB comes out



    Rodar, I gotta get me one of those
    You have no excuse for driving to work
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    (no excuse for that either)

  48. #11648
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    ^^ I'm impressed that a 5' bar won't budge it. I was sure I was going to break something with a 2' bar on a square-taper. I haven't used heat on a bike, but have had luck with it on my mower deck...I use a little heat, and tried it, then a little more, and re-tried, etc., until it worked and broke free.

    It turned into a beautiful but windy day right now, 63F and some peeks of sun.

  49. #11649
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    How was your commute today?

    Well I'll try probably tomorrow and hopefully not set my whole basement on fire. Thanks
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  50. #11650
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    Quote Originally Posted by David C View Post
    Thanks all for the tips.

    First, I did let it soak 24 hours in WD40, but may try to let it sit for 40-60 hours.

    Second, thanks for the reminder on the rotation rule, although I'm good with that already.

    Third, I have the top of line Park wall mounted repair stand, the BBT-32 and a nice 1 1/4" wrench to fit over, plus I already got my stack of thick washers and crank arm bolt to lock it in place. I had the frame down on the ground, wrench in parallel to ground plus 2° upward for optimal down force, then over the big wrench I had a 5' heavy steel pipe and nothing moved at all. If I was going a bit more, the BB tool was going to snap.

    Now, I think the heat might be the best option right now, I have everything from a heavy duty heat gun to a propane torch and I don't mind burning the paint off the BB area since it's easy to re-paint afterward anyway.

    Like I said, it's a standard square taper sealed cartridge BB, except that it has steel left cup and plastic notches for the BB body on the right side. So I don't have a choice but to at least loosen/remove the left cup in order to free the whole BB cartridge and get a new one in. I will definitively get the threads chased afterwards and get something like LX or XT cartridge since they have all strong metal cups and use plenty of waterproof grease too (usually white lithium grease).

    Since I never attempted to heat a stuck BB, using a propane torch, what should I be looking for to know when it's hot enough in there ?

    I think everyone has missed a critical point here.....you ride Montreal or at least quebec with lots of salt...

    The salt as probably worked its way into the threads and solidified and basically welded the to pieced of steel togeather...this is due to the fact that corroision products have a density lower than the parent material and this consumes all of the gap...

    Yes heating the thing will break it loss has CB says it will also probably damage the alignemnet of the frame and or the threads (the wall thickness is alot smaller on a bike than a Jeep)...

    So get some CLR and soak the thread in that (yes it will be a little difficult to contain the fluid)...

    Also rather than heat...which will weakning the steel as it gets hoter and hotter....try cold...

    Get some dry ice (phone around it is easy to get)...then put it inside the BB so that it shrinks the inside...

    Then when it melts get some steam or a heat gun at less than 300F and heat the outside...

    Repeat a couple of times...

    The use penetrating oil in the threads...then apply the dry ice to the inside...before the dry ice melts...put the wrench on it and give it a good solid wack with a big ball peen hammer...Hot the wrench with the hammer.

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