Building up my commuter/daily
Ive been looking at cylocross bikes to turn into my commuter instead of riding my hardrock. In my basement i had an early 90's Giant atx 760 i never really use because the frame is a bit big for me. I kept it since it has a really nice mix of parts.
I pulled it out and decided to play around with it and see what i can build.
So far Ive got vbrakes over the canti's
Put on a rear rack and the basket is what 20oz soda bottles come in.
Have a set of nashbar streetwise 1.5 tires on the way
Im thinking of adding a set of trekking bars
Nashbar Trekking Mountain Bike Handlebar - Mountain Handlebars
but im unsure of my handle bar size. Also will my brake/shifter combo fit on them? Or should i look at a set of bullhorn, moustahe?
The fork is in really good shape so I dunno if i wanna keep it or go rigid. What do yall think?
What about this wheel set since mine are pretty jacked.
http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Prong to duct_10053_10052_533230_-1___202477#ReviewHeader
This is just a budget build so im not looking to toss a ton of $$ into it. Here it is in all its 20+yr old glory right now.
Nice project! I like the soda basket on your rack- made a similar basket for my first commute-specific bike and sort of moved on from that idea on my current bike, but sometimes I wish I still had the flat and wide basket again. Maybe I should think about a quickly installable/removeable version. The 1.5 slicks will be a lot nicer for paved riding than knobbies.
Butterfly bars: I`ve seen pics of them set up with the shifters and brake levers in the forward position (also seen them set up with the goodies in the rear position), so some people have obviously managed to work them around the bends. No guarantees though, and I certainly doubt Nashbar will be able to confirm that for you. They SHOULD be able to tell you the clamp diameter so you`ll at least know if they`ll fit your stem. AFAIK, all mtb levers are designed to clamp around a 7/8 diameter, so little chance of a mismatch if you want the levers rearward. Keep the reach in mind- it looks like the forward position will be a couple inches ahead of your current hand position and the rear position will be behind your current setup. Okay with that?
Fork: You`re the one who said budget build. Keep the suspension for now and maybe buy a rigid next year if you feel like it?
Wheels: I`m guessing they`d be a great option if you`re usually easy on wheels- I had a set of low end Mavics with 24/28 lacing for the last few years of MTBing and they did fine for me. If I tended to trash wheels, I`d be looking at at more standard configurations with at least 32 spokes and tough rims. Harris offers a non disc Deore + Rhynolite set for under 150, I think. Probably similar for less if you shopped around.
EDIT: Your current wheels are most likely 7-speed, could either be 126 or 130mm spacing. A new wheelset will be for 135mm spacing. Is the frame steel or aluminum? For steel, even 126 to 135 is doable, but you`ll need to respace the rear triangle, and 130 to 135 is even simpler- can either respace or just force the wider hub in every time you put the wheel in there. If you have an aluminum frame, cold setting is not an option. Will probably be fine with a slightly wider hub, but I wouldn`t try squeezing a 135 into 126.
Also check to see whether you have cassette or freewheel. 7-speed cassette, you`ll just need to order or make a little shim to go behind the cluster (or move up to to 8-speed). If it`s a freewheel, remember to order a cassette with the new wheels (7+ shim or 8).
If it's choice between a rigid fork or new wheels, I'd definitely go for the fork. I think you'll notice the difference of the fork a lot more than the wheels.
And like Rodar said, those 24 spoke wheels are maybe not the best idea, especially if you're loading up your rack.
Im fine with the controls moving back a bit. The frame is a 16" and ride a 15 so i have a bit of room to play with in the cockpit.
Ill probably stick with the sus fork since even our bike paths around here are old so the pavement isnt the best and if it aint broke dont fix it .
For wheels ill probably cruise to my LBS and have them hook me up. Luckily i have a really good shop and to boot they are a Giant dealership and love giant bikes. When i 1st bought this off craigslist I took it to them to check out and they gave me a free tune up just cause they liked the old bike.
Its an old Cro mo frame i wanna say around 1992 ish.
I never thought of loading it up the rack and less spoke count. Ill be using it to go grocey shopping to so ill want a strong rim. Plus im not a light guy myself at 230lbs.
I randomly weighed a gallon of milk after a ride one day home after carrying it in my backpack and i had no clue milk weighed 8lbs. lol
Groceries are heavy! I take a lot of weekend tours when the weather is nice, and sometimes drag home two panniers full of groeries from the supermarket. The average load on a grocery run is a lot more than the average load of camping gear. And at over 200 pounds, I`d try to stay away from "foo-foo" wheels for utility work.
What`s up with the wheels you have now? Totally shot, or just in need of some lovin? Rim & spoke issues, or bearings?
Guys at the shop said the hoops themselves were bent. They tried to true it up the best they could but they still werent right. The rear wheel is actually an old one they had laying around. So i could go in and drop a couple bucks for a front wheel and call it a day.
I also ran across these h-bars
Looks like my controls will go nicely on there and have room for lights. My commute is at 4am so lights are a must. Ill have to look more into those and see if people like them
I thought I'd chime in since I have experience with the wheels you're thinking about as well as the handlebars.
I bought the wheels last year in July and have put about 5,500 miles on them to date, all commuting miles except for a 360 mile three day touring trip with a tent, sleeping bag, full panniers, etc. Regular commuting involves just the panniers. I weigh 175, so you have about 60 pounds on me. I'm not easy on my wheels, curbs, potholes, stairs, but there's a certain degree of finesse that comes with 17 years of riding that helps keep parts from getting banged up I guess. Anyway, I bought the wheels and rebuilt the hubs before putting the wheels on the bike, the grease from the factory is crap and the races were too tight, I doubt the hubs would have lasted long like that. Aside from that I haven't touched them since, they spin very smooth and haven't needed any truing.
The butterfly a.k.a. trekking handlebars offer a variety of hand positions and work just fine with MTB controls as far as the bar diameter goes. Here's my setup as of right now:
'94 RSBikes Stampede (commuter), '05 Prophet, '09 Scattante XRL Team, '10 Slice 4
Retired: 97 C-DaleSuper-V, 05 C-Dale R5000
Thanks for commenting. Thats a great looking bike and those bars look like theyll fit my need perfectly and look comfortable.
YayYay my street tires came in 2 days early. Took it for a 6mile run and im really liking them. Seems to really liven the bike up.
Ive been kinda having issues with my left crank arm coming loose. im having to tighten it down every 20miles or so. Am i going to need a new arm or am i screwed and need a new set? the numbers on the crank is a shimano fc-mc20 . If i need a new crank what could i replace it with?
Woohoo! Glad you like the new tires.
You put a little smear of grease on the spinde and bolts? You might be able to order a single arm, but I`ve never seen them sold that way except for a few fancy boutique brands or out of "bike junk yards". Is there a bike co-op near you? If it`s a square taper in 170 or 175 length, they`ll probably be able to hook you up for just a couple bucks. If it`s Octalink, your chances diminish, but still worth a shot. All you need is the same length and BB spindle interface- nothing else is going to be enough different to matter. If all else fails, you should be able to find a cheap triple crank for under $50 on the internet.
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