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  1. #1
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    Best cable lock?

    I know these things can be cut, but what is the best cable lock that will give a thief the most trouble?

  2. #2
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    The thicker the better, the specs should state the thickness of the cable. I find the non-self coiling ones easier to use, especially if you want to weave it through a wheel or 2. I have a Master Lock Python like this:
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  3. #3
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    I know that you're asking about cablelocks, but they're really only meant for deterring drunks and kids. If you're actually worried about thieves then get something else.

    I've got a couple of bulky, full-sized ulocks, but I've recently switched to a mini which works great:



    Eventually I'll probably spring for a fancy Tigr Lock. But for now the mini-ulock is small enough to fit in a bag, reasonably light, and fairly cheap (at the Canadian equivalent of REI it's only $25). It can also be cut, but it's a lot more secure than any cablelock would ever be.

    Why Cable Locks Suck Urban Velo
    Buyer's Guide To Bike Locks - BikeRadar
    How to lock a bike guide
    BicycleSource.com
    Bike Lock
    Best Bike Locks - 2005 Tests

  4. #4
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    I have about 6 cable locks...no one has yet to try to cut one off our bikes...somebody did try to break the tumblers on one lock.

    So it does provide some deterence...especially when three cables tie three bikes together...

    Anyway the thing I like is the combo's can be changed, so you don't forget...all bike locks in our place are 08-18....my birthday.

  5. #5
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    @jeffscott: Where did you say you lived again? I see a "vacation" coming on...

  6. #6
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    U-Lock, Tiger Lock (Cool, BTW, thanks for the link), cable, chain, no lock... depending on the situation, any of those might be the best bet. I do understand that cables are almost like giving your bike away in some places, but it might be all the OP really needs. I think I`ll buy a mini U one of these days, but my <$10 Bell cable lock is light, easy to fit around lamp posts or the D-ring tie downs in the back of my truck, and it`s been keeping my bike mine for several years. Well, this one and the one before that I had to cut off when the keyhole froze up one day. I wish mine were straight instead of coiled too, but the cheapos all seem to be coil.

  7. #7
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    Security is subjective. You have to give something up for higher levels of security.

    For instance: NOBODY is getting your bike if you use this:
    Kryptonite New York Legend 1590 Chain Lock

    However the trade-off is that it weights half as much as your bike and cost half as much, too.

  8. #8
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    that looks like the perfect lock for in my garage. 5 foot length? YES PLEASE.

  9. #9
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    If you like your bike and want to keep it DO NOT USE CABLE LOCKS. My bike was stolen outside the gym last Saturday morning by two thieves caught on camera but not enough detail to identify them. It was a good quality 12mm cable locked to the iron fence. Just snipped with bolt croppers. I now run/walk or drive to the gym but will not be cycling due to thieves. This is in Derby, UK but it could be any city.

  10. #10
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    I live in New York. Most the cable locks I see are lying on the ground cut. IMHO cables are only good for keeping honest people honest. Best bet if a nice sturdy U-lock with a secondary cable to run through your wheels so no one takes them. Also lock it up even in garages, storage, etc. I lost a very, very nice bike because I assumed it would be safe in a locked storage locker in the basement of my building. Thieves pried the lock off the door and took my mountain bike and left my road bike (which on a whim I had locked to shelf with a u-lock, more to keep it out of the way than for security.)

  11. #11
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    If you really must have a cable lock:
    Amazon.com: OnGuard Rottweiler 5025 Bicycle Armored Bicycle Cable Lock: Sports & Outdoors

    I have one to lock bikes onto my car. Apparently they are still easy to cut, though, by simply bending them until the armor separates. I use mine mainly as a deterrent and don't leave bikes on there for long (usually just when I'm eating dinner after a ride).
    Matt

  12. #12
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    Apparently thieves will go to any length to try and steal something! Destroy?
    On youtube, they cut down a tree to get a bike and then decide it's either not worth it or the bike is damaged. I can't link the video because of less than 10 post but you just can't leave a nice bike out in the public for too long.

  13. #13
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    How about the On Guard Beast. It's a hardened steel/titanium chain and lock. 3' long. Looks to be on par with the Kryponite New York Legend 1590 referenced above but a bit less money. It also has a $3500 theft insurance. Anyone have any thoughts on this one?

    I've had the On Guard Rottreiller also referenced above and it did defeat a bolt cutter once while I had both my bikes locked up outside a mall.
    However, the key/lock finally failed/jammed while I was on a biking vacation in Phoenix and I had to cut it off. It took three hack saw blades and an hour of hard work to get through it. Pretty good lock for a cable. (Disclaimer: Not a professional bike theif)

    Any thoughts on the Albus Bordo 6000 reviewed here on mtbr recently?

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by KRob View Post
    Snip... (Disclaimer: Not a professional bike theif)
    Now, that's a funny disclaimer.

  15. #15
    I'd rather be on my bike
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    I used to use a cable lock but became weary when I saw a few on campus that were simply cut laying on the ground where a bike used to be. I opted for this Kryptonite U Lock: ProductInformation
    It is fairly hefty, weighs about 3-4 pounds, but should be a good enough deterrent for the rack at work, which is in a parking ramp with 24 hour surveillance and lots of foot and car traffic.

    Goes through the rack, frame and front wheel. No quick release on the rear wheel, so it would take some time and some tools to get it off, and it isn't the prettiest or most expensive rear wheel either, and it is a single speed lol.
    '13 FELT TK3 48:15
    Fixed gear - but not a hipster
    2014 miles - 1021/2500

  16. #16
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    Cable locks can be cut with surprisingly cheap pliers, but the biggest weakness is that they can be twisted open with 30cm rod or bar or anything similar. takes 15 seconds maybe, and its quiet.

    U-locks are hard to cut with bolt cutters but can be cut with angle grinders in about 3sec no matter which one you get. Biggest problem with them is the size and shape.

    beefy chain and padlock is the best, hard/impossible to cut with bolt cutters depending on size, no leverage/twist attacks possible, and they flop around when trying to cut them with angle grinders as opposed to u-locks.

    also the chains can be had PROPERLY hardened from pragmasis as opposed to ALL other brittle crap just for show locks like abus and kryptonite.
    the padlocks can be had from squire with hidden shackle and made out of boron steel, just as the chains. I got my pragmasis/squire combo from england and it was cheaper than abus best armored cable lock with shipping. The difference is that now i actually have some real security.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.

    Quote Originally Posted by iheartbicycles View Post
    Specialized sucks ass.

  17. #17
    I'd rather be on my bike
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    For the average commuter, carrying a heavy duty chain and lock really is not that feasible, especially traveling more than 10 miles each way. I had to go with weight and security, along with cost, so mine works well for me. Would it survive in NYC? Not sure.
    '13 FELT TK3 48:15
    Fixed gear - but not a hipster
    2014 miles - 1021/2500

  18. #18
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    The more that I think about bike theft, the more I tend to think that carrying around heavy steel chains, U locks, cables, specially hardened locks etc is not the real answer to stop thieves. How much ironmongery are we expected to travel with so that we can safely stop for a meal / do a bit of shopping / visit friends. Perhaps inbuilt GPS tracking devices are a better way to go. I don't know and all these chains / locks etc do not protect saddles and accessories. I have recently bought some demountable pedals for my commuter as another idea...they just clip in and out.

  19. #19
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    I had a beefy type abus armored cable lock, it weighed about 1.8-2kg or so. my new chain and padlock weighs about the same, but now I also use a thinner cable that goes through the front wheel and saddle. I have them under the saddle in a modded mondo xl bag from topeak.

    They way I see itis this: I have 2 choices, either I make sure no one wants to steal the bike or I don't, and then its gone some day.

    I lug this around everywhere I go.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.

    Quote Originally Posted by iheartbicycles View Post
    Specialized sucks ass.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by newfangled View Post
    I know that you're asking about cablelocks, but they're really only meant for deterring drunks and kids. If you're actually worried about thieves then get something else.

    I've got a couple of bulky, full-sized ulocks, but I've recently switched to a mini which works great:



    Eventually I'll probably spring for a fancy Tigr Lock. But for now the mini-ulock is small enough to fit in a bag, reasonably light, and fairly cheap (at the Canadian equivalent of REI it's only $25). It can also be cut, but it's a lot more secure than any cablelock would ever be.

    Why Cable Locks Suck Urban Velo
    Buyer's Guide To Bike Locks - BikeRadar
    How to lock a bike guide
    BicycleSource.com
    Bike Lock
    Best Bike Locks - 2005 Tests

    ULOCKS do not work worth a sh!t either.....last summer some guy simply cut the rubber off, froze the metal, hit it with a hammer and off he went. I got it back a week later in a van pulled over across the Idaho border. Now I use the very heavy Bolt cutter buster chain from my bike shop. It can withstand the the freezing as well. Now I know it would be heavy. But why don't they make a ulock made from the same metal properties. However I did some research.....I have seen some bolt cutter style at walmart by Kryptonite and the chain part is good....but the base part is the same cheap metal that can be frozen. You have to go to your bike shop for a good one and plan on spending around 80 bucks.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yuri Natenpuhl View Post
    I know these things can be cut, but what is the best cable lock that will give a thief the most trouble?
    Honestly, none.

    What's wrong with U-locks, why do you specifically want a cable lock?

  22. #22
    J-Flo
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    I am looking for the best way to lock up 2-4 bikes on the back of my truck on a Kuat rack. I have been using two NY U-Locks and the heaviest cables I could find (only 12mm) run through the eye hole on my truck frame. Best solution would be a very heavy (25-30mm) cable long enough to run through the four bikes with a tough loop on the end for attaching to a small U-lock, but all the heavy cables I have seen have a built-in loop lock that won't work for this purpose and most are pretty short.

    I suppose a heavy chain with rubber cover would work too but haven't seen one that could work.

    Why they sell so many 6-8mm cables is beyond me. Those are very little deterrent.

  23. #23
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    Pragmasis has the option of having one end of a chain one of those big rings, noose ring or whatever they call it. Look up their uk site, i think they have videos showing how to use them the best way too. you can get these chains up to 6m I believe.

    Personally i would go for a 10-11mm chain and thick rubber around it not to damage the bikes, trust me even an 11mm naked chain has enough weight to damage bikes if you are not careful.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.

    Quote Originally Posted by iheartbicycles View Post
    Specialized sucks ass.

  24. #24
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    Best cable lock?

    Quote Originally Posted by Badger242 View Post
    I live in New York. Most the cable locks I see are lying on the ground cut. IMHO cables are only good for keeping honest people honest. Best bet if a nice sturdy U-lock with a secondary cable to run through your wheels so no one takes them. Also lock it up even in garages, storage, etc. I lost a very, very nice bike because I assumed it would be safe in a locked storage locker in the basement of my building. Thieves pried the lock off the door and took my mountain bike and left my road bike (which on a whim I had locked to shelf with a u-lock, more to keep it out of the way than for security.)
    Yah i seen guys riding $5k bikes hockey taped up with big chains wrapped around the frame in Manhattan.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jfloren View Post
    I am looking for the best way to lock up 2-4 bikes on the back of my truck on a Kuat rack. I have been using two NY U-Locks and the heaviest cables I could find (only 12mm) run through the eye hole on my truck frame. Best solution would be a very heavy (25-30mm) cable long enough to run through the four bikes with a tough loop on the end for attaching to a small U-lock, but all the heavy cables I have seen have a built-in loop lock that won't work for this purpose and most are pretty short.

    I suppose a heavy chain with rubber cover would work too but haven't seen one that could work.
    I can list out long cables, but they're not that much thicker:

    30 feet x 10mm
    https://www.kryptonitelock.com/Pages...PNumber=830504

    30 feet x 10mm
    Akita #8073 ? OnGuard Locks

    Most space efficient way to lock bikes with a cable is to wrap one end of the cable around the farthest bike and through itself, then lock the cable back to itself on the side you lock it. This is an image from a quick image search, notice how the cable loops through itself rather than running all the way back to the start -


    Here's a chain that loops through itself like the cable, but it's not terribly long -
    https://www.kryptonitelock.com/Pages...PNumber=999546

    Quote Originally Posted by Jfloren View Post
    Why they sell so many 6-8mm cables is beyond me. Those are very little deterrent.
    Most likely because making the cable thicker provides almost no additional deterrent. Cables are made up of several individual strands of wire - cutting through twice as many strands of wire is not that much more difficult than cutting through just a few.

    A much thicker cable lock gets you a very very small increase in security. The only way to greatly increase security is to use something solid to lock them up, like a ulock or a chain. Driving down the road with a chain or ulock might not be a great idea either, as it could damage the paint on the bike frame as it smacks against it.

    Puting a ulock at the end of the cable is pointless - you're not getting more security than the cable provides. Just use a regular toughened lock.

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