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  1. #1
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    XX1 or XO1 in Colorado

    Just wanted to hear some thoughts on experience with xx1 in the mountains.

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    Kaj
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    been setting most of them up with 30 tooth chain rings. People are happy with them. Here's a link to the gear comparison:

    https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...2dENPVFE#gid=0
    Kona Wo for Fat Biking, Ibis HD3 for Trail Shredding, Merckx Road bike for collecting dust

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    Thanks! good to hear.

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    Quote Originally Posted by micgills View Post
    Just wanted to hear some thoughts on experience with xx1 in the mountains.
    I was using a 28t XX1 with a 10 speed type 2 XO 11-36 rear and was impressed. I beat on it and never dropped a chain. It was JUST enough gearing on a 29er, but I would have liked the 42 rear for really long climbs on all day rides. I didn't miss not having a 10t vs the 11t though--I really wish they would just come out with an 11-42 10 speed cassette that didn't need a new freewheel.

  5. #5
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    Running xx1 w/ grip shift. Dig it. 32t works good for me- although do find myself on a rare occasion looking for another climbing gear. I could see putting a 28 t on there. Sounds like some machine shops can even make a 26t due to xx1 bcd. Reasons why I'd choose xx1 over xo1. Cons obviously cost. On a superficial level gear changes occur with a clunk but no impact to performance. I have wracked the derailleur on rocks hard a few times and it hasn't crumbled- yet. It will and that's going to hurt.
    Get it - no dropped chains and singlefying drivetrain improves ride experience. Plus lose several hundred grams over your existing setup.

  6. #6
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    The difference in cost is negligible but if I were upgrading an existing bike, I'd get all the XX1 parts but the cranks, then just get a Raceface or Wolftooth ring for your existing crankset. That'll mean you are limited to a 30t as your smallest front ring, though.

    Not having a front derailleur rules. I set my wife's bike up with XX1 this year and she is ecstatic.

    -Walt

  7. #7
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    XX1 or XO1 in Colorado

    Xx1 36 up front works great here in Colorado

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    RE: XX1 or XO1 in Colorado

    Been riding XX1 with 32 up front this whole year and loving it. Before the start of this year my longest mtb ride ever was 35 miles on a 3x9. This year I raced in the Breck 68 (70 miles 8.5k climbing). and thought xx1 was perfect.

    Do I sometimes wish I had an extra low gear? Yes, but I did on my 3x9 as well. I think you just adapt to what you have.

    The only downside is the big jump between the 10 & 12 tooth cog. It's a pretty big jump and sometimes I find myself flicking between the two. That's me being fussy though. Either way I can't see me getting a front derailleur on a new bike ever again
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    Quote Originally Posted by mbco1975 View Post
    Been riding XX1 with 32 up front this whole year and loving it. Before the start of this year my longest mtb ride ever was 35 miles on a 3x9. This year I raced in the Breck 68 (70 miles 8.5k climbing). and thought xx1 was perfect.

    Do I sometimes wish I had an extra low gear? Yes, but I did on my 3x9 as well. I think you just adapt to what you have.

    The only downside is the big jump between the 10 & 12 tooth cog. It's a pretty big jump and sometimes I find myself flicking between the two. That's me being fussy though. Either way I can't see me getting a front derailleur on a new bike ever again
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    Well that pretty much sold me. I do alot of climbing so thanks!
    what bike are you you?

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Walt View Post
    The difference in cost is negligible but if I were upgrading an existing bike, I'd get all the XX1 parts but the cranks, then just get a Raceface or Wolftooth ring for your existing crankset. That'll mean you are limited to a 30t as your smallest front ring, though.

    -Walt
    +1 but slight correction: Wolf tooth makes a direct mount 28T for GXP cranks...

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    Quote Originally Posted by micgills View Post
    Well that pretty much sold me. I do alot of climbing so thanks!
    what bike are you you?
    Specialized Epic Expert.

    You might want to invest $10 in these race face boots to protect your shiny new carbon cranks

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    Quote Originally Posted by ingluis View Post
    +1 but slight correction: Wolf tooth makes a direct mount 28T for GXP cranks...
    And if that isn't low enough, they are going to start shipping the 26t late next week! I am very interested in one of those (and a 36t for the resorts assuming they are fairly easy to switch out). I specifically bought X9 cranks for the new bike so I would be able to run Wolf Tooths.

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    not on xx1 but i have converted my casette to 11-41 with 32 front. i dont really care for 10 in the back. its great not having to care about front der. go fo it you will love it. i run race face narrow/wide ring in front, no tensioners or guides. didnt drop chain once. it is great upgrade.

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    Quote Originally Posted by kristian View Post
    And if that isn't low enough, they are going to start shipping the 26t late next week! I am very interested in one of those (and a 36t for the resorts assuming they are fairly easy to switch out). I specifically bought X9 cranks for the new bike so I would be able to run Wolf Tooths.
    Dang... my correction stands corrected.

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    XX1 or XO1 in Colorado

    Hadn't seen wolf tooth. Another correction looks like they offer 24t for direct mount gxp according to their website. $78. That'd be nice on a Fatbike.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Walt View Post
    The difference in cost is negligible but if I were upgrading an existing bike, I'd get all the XX1 parts but the cranks, then just get a Raceface or Wolftooth ring for your existing crankset.

    -Walt
    Walt, how are those RF narrow wides working with 11sp chains? Haven't tried that one yet.
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  17. #17
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    I just installed a Wolf Tooth 30. First ride this morning. Running 11-34 out back. It was awesome. Not a single dropped chain and I'm using way more of my cassette now. Need to switch to 10spd and run 11-36. Should be just about right.
    I'm here for the downhill

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by brankulo View Post
    not on xx1 but i have converted my casette to 11-41 with 32 front. i dont really care for 10 in the back. its great not having to care about front der. go fo it you will love it. i run race face narrow/wide ring in front, no tensioners or guides. didnt drop chain once. it is great upgrade.

    Brankulo is the 11 - 41 a homemade thang or where did you get it, and if ya made it is there a how too somewhere?

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    Quote Originally Posted by ironbrewer View Post
    Brankulo is the 11 - 41 a homemade thang or where did you get it, and if ya made it is there a how too somewhere?
    there are 3 ways that i know of that you can convert your cassette to high range one, depending how much you want to spend. i went the cheapest way, which was adding 42 cog from ebay to 11-36 cassette, just to see if i would like it. ended up keeping it, have been on mine for almost 8 months. total cost for me was i think $35, but i already had extra cassette that i needed for conversion. pm me if you need more details.

  20. #20
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    XX1 has worked great in and around Colorado Springs, as well as for the Leadville Silver Rush 50 last month. I started out with a 32T initially (which worked fine around town), but switched to a 30T for Leadville. I love the simplicity of this group, as well as the ease of setup and reliability so far...and man, is it quiet.

  21. #21
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    I only have a little time on one but they seem fine so far. Honestly I have had pretty good luck running just a tall-tooth unramped (ie Bling Ring) setup with the XX1. And I ride pretty rough stuff in general. So the narrow wide isn't even really mandatory IMO unless you're really hucking/shredding the Jamestown moto trails or something.

    -Walt

  22. #22
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    I've had one a few weeks now. Moved on from my 1x9 setup. I'm loving it. Those two extra rings have really helped on high country stuff. I've ridden copper to Kokomo, two elks, some local stuff and today pikes peak. No chain problems. It's nice to stay in my 1x9 mentality around town and have those two extra rings to sit and spin in on altitude stuff.

    Rode w a couple friends today both running xx1. One had a 28t on a trek carbon full suspension and another had a 30t on a Bronson. They were both shredding really technical stuff and liked the setups.

    The guy w the Bronson broke a chain on a local ride previously. Hasn't had a problem since. The trek was acting up missing shifts and shifting by itself but once we adjusted it on the trail it was fine. It's a setup you'll have to keep up on cause replacing parts is not cheap but it seems to be a pretty ideal range for my riding. I'm really digging it.

  23. #23
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    awesome info. not sure what I will buy may just base that decision on price. could just go a mix of xt - xtr and save a few hundred. At this point I am thinking pivot mach 6 or bronson for these components. I guess you can't really go wrong no matter what I do.

    I am demoing a bronson now but got to wait until the mach 6 comes so I can at least throw a leg over one. Ughh hardest part is waiting; the longer I wait the more justifying I have.

  24. #24
    zrm
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    The problem with this set up is you'll loose top end gears. If you don't mind spinning out at <20mph then you should be OK.

  25. #25
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    I don't know man...I haven't had any issues reaching 20+ MPH when in the 10T in the back. I could see it being an issue if you spend a lot of time on the road, etc to transition to and from trails, but on the trail, not at all. With the rocks, climbs, switchbacks, etc, how often are you really using anything smaller than 18T? I'm sure some might, but unless I'm descending, I know I'm not.

    With how easy (maybe not cheap) it is to swap the rings up front, you can quickly tailor the system for the conditions that you'll be riding in. Most people I know check at least tires, chain, etc, before riding. Swapping an XX1 chain ring would add less than 5 minutes to that process. I've typically been running a 32T here in Colorado Springs, but switch to a 30 for places like Leadville, etc. I would even consider a 34T for here in town, but my frame is limited to a 32T.

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    HAd you done Leadville on a 2x10 at all? I am on the fence and either want to go XX1 or full XTR with Specialized cranks. Either way I am wanting to upgrade, but love the simplicity of XX1. Do you miss the smaller shifting differences you get when you're in the small ring? For me i find it helps me find the perfect gear, don't know if i'll miss that though.

  27. #27
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    I did the Leadville Silver Rush 50 in 2012 using 2x10, and XX1 in 2013. The only difference that I noticed, was that I was fatter and slower. I didn't notice an advantage or deficiency using either, except XX1 is simpler and I only had to worry about one shifter. I'm not the brightest bulb on the tree, so less thought when exhausted was nice.

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by chrisgardner73 View Post
    I did the Leadville Silver Rush 50 in 2012 using 2x10, and XX1 in 2013. The only difference that I noticed, was that I was fatter and slower. I didn't notice an advantage or deficiency using either, except XX1 is simpler and I only had to worry about one shifter. I'm not the brightest bulb on the tree, so less thought when exhausted was nice.


    Ya i don't think it would really matter to me. I just wish there was a way to demo the group before buying it. That would be nice haha
    If only...

  29. #29
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    Single chainring perhaps an option out here in CO for the pv$$ies among us (I'm looking at ME, Chief):

    42 Tooth Cog for 10 Speed from OneUp - NSMB.com Mountain Bike Reviews, News, Photo and Video

  30. #30
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    How old are you guys who are running 1x11? I'll be 50 shortly and I am fit, but I am still running 3x9 and 3x10 for fear of these old knees running out of gears in the hills.

  31. #31
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    Don't think in terms of single/double/triple. Break it down to numbers:

    easiest gear triple/10sp is 22/36=.61111
    easiest gear XX1 is 28/42 = .6666667
    #2 easiest gear on a 3x10 would be 22/32=.6785

    therfore, your easiest gear with XX1 is going to feel like somewhere between your #1 and #2 cog while in a 22 granny. Not really a huge difference.

    BUT - if you focus on this side of the gear range, you're going to give up some on the top end, as 42/11=3.82 and 28/10=2.8.

    I've been using a 1x11 XO1 setup since October. I've got a 30t on it. At first ride, I could tell I gave up a wee tad on climbing but it's gone now. I've given up so much on the top end, though, that I think I'd appreciate having a 32 on there and giving up a little on the easy side.
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    Bumping an older thread here... I just got a SC Bronson C with the XO1 kit for use as my one-bike quiver in the Front Range, everything from rolling XC to chunky AM (and perhaps the occasional trip to Trestle for lift served downhill, though that's rare). I was a bit nervous about the 1X11 setup. I'm a decent climber but not a rocket - a little on the heavy side and my level of fitness varies depending on how much I'm getting out.

    After three rides, so far I'm impressed but feeling like the stock 34t chainring is probably a little much for me on the longer climbs. I made it up Hello Kitty (at Buff Creek) last weekend without walking or too much resting, but it was more effort than I'd like. On the downhills, the top gear was fine for me - I used it for the dirt road at the end but never felt like I needed another one. I just ordered a 30t ring and intend to try that one out this weekend - my guess is it'll solve the uphill dilemma but I'll end up missing the top gears on the runouts.

    I'll report back when I've got more data.

  33. #33
    zrm
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    Bottom line is you're going to give up something on either the bottom or top end for a weight savings.

  34. #34
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    I'm running a 26" Mojo HDR with a 32t and feel it's just right. I do wish for a bit more top end at times but it's not common.

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    Quote Originally Posted by zrm View Post
    Bottom line is you're going to give up something on either the bottom or top end for a weight savings.
    Not just weight savings, IMHO. I also notice the ease of use (no thinking about a front derailleur) and the incredibly quiet and smooth action. But your point is well taken - it's not a free lunch, you definitely have to give something up. It's just a question of whether what you gain is worth what you give up.

  36. #36
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    I have been running the 32t X01 from the start with my 5010 that i purchased a few months ago. I came off of an 8-speed 24-34-46 / 12-32 and I agree about the top end but I am not missing it much. The 32/42 on the X01 matches mt 24/32 almost exactly so I am missing nothing on the low end. I haven't drop a chain or missed a shift yet.
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    I have been looking at the new XTR quite a bit and it may be a better use of the gear range than xx1. There isnt the weight savings, but the small loss in rotational weight is going to be fairly insignificant. A 26t chain ring is not exactly heavy...
    I'm debating whether I may want to give the XTR a whirl or not.
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  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jkon View Post
    Not just weight savings, IMHO. I also notice the ease of use (no thinking about a front derailleur) and the incredibly quiet and smooth action. But your point is well taken - it's not a free lunch, you definitely have to give something up. It's just a question of whether what you gain is worth what you give up.
    Agreed
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  39. #39
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    XX1 or XO1 in Colorado

    I spent 5 days in CB last summer running XX1 on my Bronson, did all the big rides from town and it ended up being ok. I have a 32 on mine. I think if your fit it's fine, for the long distance stuff u just need to settle in and get through the big climbs.

  40. #40
    zrm
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jkon View Post
    Not just weight savings, IMHO. I also notice the ease of use (no thinking about a front derailleur) and the incredibly quiet and smooth action. But your point is well taken - it's not a free lunch, you definitely have to give something up. It's just a question of whether what you gain is worth what you give up.
    Well, sure if that is a big deal to you but having shifters on both handlebars has never seemed to be much of an issue for me.

  41. #41
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    I'm running 32t xo1 on a Bronson C and loving it. At first I thought of going to a 30t but sucked it up and got a little stronger so the 32 is perfect now. I really like how it freed up space on my bars to move my dropper control to where the front shifter was. I agree with what others have said, don't see myself ever having a front derailer again.

  42. #42
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    I agree with what others have said, don't see myself ever having a front derailer again.
    Amen brother.

    I'm on a T-29 and am not a super fit racer boy. I've got a 32 up front and it's fine for all my front range climbs, the toughest sections are tough, but still ridable. I feel like the 32 would be a bit high somewhere like CB where you cimb for an hour or two, unless I was fit which is incentive to get fit, while a 30 would be great for where I am right now.

    There are very few places on my everyday rides where I spin out and wish I had a bigger gear and those places are always dirt or paved roads and since I'm not racing DH, I could care less. I'll happily trade that for lower gearing.

    Pros - It's silent, it's lighter, it works well and doesn't drop chains. It's essentially invisible like any good piece of gear.

    Cons - $@!!Q)&%4!! expensive.

    Once the price comes down significantly, 1 X whatever will take over the world.

  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by zrm View Post
    Well, sure if that is a big deal to you but having shifters on both handlebars has never seemed to be much of an issue for me.
    +1

    Retrogrouch here. I like the ease of use of being able to spin an easy gear when I'm climbing 10% grades for hours at a time. Guess I'm a little backward...

    I think this is really like the typical "what gear should I use on my singlespeed?" thread. Depends on how tough you are, how hard or easy it is for you to push big gears, and whether you are OK with working hard.

    As a disclaimer, and as bacon boy will surely point out, I am old. Also, slow, fat, and exceedingly lazy. I find shifting a front derailleur easier than grinding away with a 30 gear/inch gear up a jeep road.

    But like any real-world retrogrouch, I have enough experience to know that it's very likely that I'll be eating those words eventually. Fifteen years ago I said that disc brakes were irrelevant in a dry climate. 12 years ago I said that 8-speed was what I would ride forever because 9 speed would never be durable enough. Etc.
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  44. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kaj View Post
    been setting most of them up with 30 tooth chain rings. People are happy with them. Here's a link to the gear comparison:

    https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...2dENPVFE#gid=0
    Might I ask which wheel size?

    Last weekend in GJ/Fruita I ran 650b wheels/tires with a 30T front and 11-36T rear. Wanted a way to 'feel' see what X01 (or 10spd 11-42T) with a 34T upfront would feel like. I found a few times where I wanted a lower gear or two.

    Thinking 30T 11-42T will be good for a 6" 27.5 aggressive trail/AM bike.

  45. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by TomP View Post
    +1

    Retrogrouch here.
    Me too

    I am old. Also, slow, fat, and exceedingly lazy.
    Me too. Which is why I have a 26T chainring on my X01. 26x42 is almost equivalent to a 22x36 typical low gear on a 3X, 29er set up, which is what I need. So far, I don't really care about losing gears on the high end.


    Fifteen years ago I said that disc brakes were irrelevant in a dry climate. 12 years ago I said that 8-speed was what I would ride forever because 9 speed would never be durable enough. Etc.
    Me too. I still say some of that crazy sh*t.

  46. #46
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    My trail bike is a pretty big travel 29er (160/150 ft/rr) that comes in at ~30lbs despite it having a pretty significant carbon footprint. So here's a bit of an interesting take on the 1x??...almost specifically for the bigger travel (and heavier) 29ers. I think I may have to stick w/ a 2x?? because I have crappy knees.

    Grannygear’s notes for the unveiling:

    It was an interesting presentation that Shimano gave us at Sea Otter while we ate some great food and drank ‘adult beverages’, etc. I was impressed by the engineering approach they took in reconsidering how different riders and different bikes have different gearing needs. The rush to the double crank left some biiiig gaps in gearing and the present 1×11 system only added to that. So while the Shimano 11 spd approach is only an 11-40 cassette, they are looking at it as a XC race set-up, not a trail bike deal. Trail bikes deserve wider and deeper gearing and the way they look at it, they deserve a double crank at least. And the thought of a return to triple cranks, although I want to run away and hide from that, makes a lot of sense to get a truly functional gearing approach. According to Shimano, we lost our efficient “drive gear”. I agree. And I do not always agree with Shimano. So pay attention. Who knows when this will happen again!

    To explain a bit, remember when we all rode triple cranks and 26″ wheels? I used to wear out the middle ring three to one over the granny and I hardly ever replaced the outer ring unless I had bashed it to death. A 32T middle cog was good for 75% (just to toss out a number) of the riding. The granny ring (a 22T) was great for longer, steeper climbs and the big ring was for the obvious fast DH and cruising home on pave’. But that middle ring was the ‘driving gear’ where you spent most of your time.

    A 36/22 on 29er has no such ‘driving gear’ in my neck of the woods. It just does not work out that way. A 30T middle ring would bring that driving gear back, but at the expense of a triple ring price tag. Interesting. I want it but I don’t want it. I do LOVE the idea of running a 26/38 double crank and having that 40T cog, giving me both bigger chain rings and a decent low gear. And, if I really need to torque along, a 24×40 is pretty darn low and would be good for anything I have around here, even on a bigger 29er trail bike.

    It is a different, but well reasoned approach that differs from what I have seen the current SRAM 1x system most often applied to, that being trail/AM bikes. Shimano does not always do what the market is calling for. It took them too long to give us 29″er-deep gearing on cranks for example, and let’s forget about Rapid Rise, shall we? But this had me looking at gearing in a way I had come to, well, forsake, for lack of a better word, as gearing has gone from close ratios/more options/more flexibility to wider gaps/less options/less flexibility and so on.

    Perhaps this is a return to greater practicality and when this trickles down to the everyman level of XT/SLX, as we assume it will, it will be interesting to see how it is embraced by riders.

    Full article: Shimano Announces New 11spd XTR M9000

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    Quote Originally Posted by TomP View Post
    +1

    Retrogrouch here. I like the ease of use of being able to spin an easy gear when I'm climbing 10% grades for hours at a time. Guess I'm a little backward..
    For my XC/All Day Epic 29er rig, I've definitely decided that I prefer 2x10 with a 24/36 (or 22/33 for Uber climbing). Like... climbing back up to Kenosha pass after spending all morning getting up/down Georgia pass.

    On flow trails with quick, steep & punchy ascents (like GJ/Fruita) find it easier to keep the cassette in the 3rd or 4th gear and just 'toggle' (for lack of a better term) back and forth between the two rings.

    For the AM bike, I think 1x is cool. But, to be perfectly honest, the only reason I went 1x on my AM bike is I needed a new (direct mount) FD to go 2x on my new frame... And I'd rather buy a Wolftooth 42 GC than a Sram/Shimano Front D (I have like 3 front D's sitting in the parts bin).

  48. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tyrich88 View Post
    I'm debating whether I may want to give the XTR a whirl or not.
    The XTR 11-40 is definitely geared to those who want a 2x11 set up. They have 2 racer oriented cranks 26-36 & 28-38, and one trail oriented 24-34.

    In the 1x11 set up, I'm not sure who it's geared too. If you run a 30 or 32 or 34 like most are doing with XX1, you give up a little bit on the low end with not having a 42 tooth. But on the high end you give up about 10% more without have the 10 tooth. My guess is those who want XTR shifting and a 1x11 will want to do so using a XX1 cassette.

    btw: puns intended
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    Kaj

    you referenced 30T X01 for the Front Range... what wheel size are you primarily setting up?

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    Quote Originally Posted by hokiebrett View Post
    Kaj

    you referenced 30T X01 for the Front Range... what wheel size are you primarily setting up?
    We're doing it both for 29 and 27.5. I think that works out as most 29ers we are selling are 120mm travel or less, and most 27.5's are 130mm travel or more. So the 29ers riders are happier with a little taller gear.
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    Quote Originally Posted by TomP View Post
    +1

    Retrogrouch here. I like the ease of use of being able to spin an easy gear when I'm climbing 10% grades for hours at a time. Guess I'm a little backward...

    I think this is really like the typical "what gear should I use on my singlespeed?" thread. Depends on how tough you are, how hard or easy it is for you to push big gears, and whether you are OK with working hard.

    As a disclaimer, and as bacon boy will surely point out, I am old. Also, slow, fat, and exceedingly lazy. I find shifting a front derailleur easier than grinding away with a 30 gear/inch gear up a jeep road.

    But like any real-world retrogrouch, I have enough experience to know that it's very likely that I'll be eating those words eventually. Fifteen years ago I said that disc brakes were irrelevant in a dry climate. 12 years ago I said that 8-speed was what I would ride forever because 9 speed would never be durable enough. Etc.
    FWIW When I got my first bike with disk brakes, it was also my first FS bike and it wasn't the FS that made me say "holy s**t how did I live without this?" it was the disk brakes.

    As to gearing, it's pretty hard to change the math. Maybe one day there will be 12 or 13 gear cogsets, but right now, even if I don't use either the super granny or the tallest gear I have, I still like having them when I want and need them and like I said, I really don't think having a front derailleur is a problem in search of a cure.

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    Lol @ Shimano trying to reason away SRAM's 1x11. Ridiculous BS if you ask me. Shimano has been outdone, and not by just a little bit.

    I think SRAM 1x11 is a significant leap forward in drivetrain design and it shifts and feels much better than any other drivetrain on the market. No dropped chains, no chain slap, great shifting performance, no FD, light weight...

    For racing, IDK/don't care, but for trail riders I can't see very many people choosing Shimano anymore. They have some catching up to do.
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    Quote Originally Posted by davec113 View Post
    Lol @ Shimano trying to reason away SRAM's 1x11. Ridiculous BS if you ask me. Shimano has been outdone, and not by just a little bit.
    +1 - I obviously haven't ridden it yet, but the new XTR looks like Shimano came out with an 11 speed slightly wider range cassette in order to appear to be doing something to keep up with Sram. All the riders who want to go 1x will still choose Sram and in my opinion the last thing I need in a 2x or 3x drivetrain is more overlapping gears. Maybe the explanation that the even gaps in the shifting provide a better ride is true in road riding, but for me rapid terrain changes cause much more cadence change then a slightly bigger gap when shifting between 2 cogs ever would.

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    Quote Originally Posted by davec113 View Post
    Lol @ Shimano trying to reason away SRAM's 1x11. Ridiculous BS if you ask me. Shimano has been outdone, and not by just a little bit.

    I think SRAM 1x11 is a significant leap forward in drivetrain design and it shifts and feels much better than any other drivetrain on the market. No dropped chains, no chain slap, great shifting performance, no FD, light weight...

    For racing, IDK/don't care, but for trail riders I can't see very many people choosing Shimano anymore. They have some catching up to do.
    Most people will ride what the bike is spec'ed with. Yes in some cases they have a choice, but in most they do not.
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    Quote Originally Posted by davemk View Post
    in my opinion the last thing I need in a 2x or 3x drivetrain is more overlapping gears.
    Especially un-ridable, overlapping gears. You can still cross chain with a 2x, it's just not as horrible sounding as with a 3x.

    I typically use my granny ring for the first 1-5 gears and then the middle ring for the remaining 5.

    I rarely (basically never) use middle ring in a big-big (no 42T big ring, 2xbash). Never use the granny in a little-little situation.

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    Quote Originally Posted by davec113 View Post
    Lol @ Shimano trying to reason away SRAM's 1x11. Ridiculous BS if you ask me. Shimano has been outdone, and not by just a little bit.

    I think SRAM 1x11 is a significant leap forward in drivetrain design and it shifts and feels much better than any other drivetrain on the market. No dropped chains, no chain slap, great shifting performance, no FD, light weight...

    For racing, IDK/don't care, but for trail riders I can't see very many people choosing Shimano anymore. They have some catching up to do.
    The new XTR has a 1X, 2X or 3X option. SRAM XX has a 1X or a 2X option.
    The only thing Shimano doesn't have is the cassette with a 10T small or 42T big, and I think, like most others, that that is a mistake. But it appears that many 1X riders don't necessarily need all that range, (and 2x or 3x riders will still be around and won't care), so I think it is a bit of an overstatement to say that not many people will choose Shimano anymore...

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    Quote Originally Posted by davec113 View Post
    Lol @ Shimano trying to reason away SRAM's 1x11. Ridiculous BS if you ask me. Shimano has been outdone, and not by just a little bit.

    I think SRAM 1x11 is a significant leap forward in drivetrain design and it shifts and feels much better than any other drivetrain on the market. No dropped chains, no chain slap, great shifting performance, no FD, light weight...

    For racing, IDK/don't care, but for trail riders I can't see very many people choosing Shimano anymore. They have some catching up to do.
    I just don't think I can push a 28x42 (0.666) for an hour or two...I think this is the min rec'd by Sram? But, Ethan F (Maverick Sus) told me he's running a 26x42 (0.619), which is just a touch above a 22/36 (0.611)...I might be able to do this tho.

  58. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by SicBith View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by davec113
    ...for trail riders I can't see very many people choosing Shimano anymore. They have some catching up to do....
    Most people will ride what the bike is spec'ed with. Yes in some cases they have a choice, but in most they do not.
    It's true, most riders will ride what their bike came with, and maybe tinker a little, upgrading a derailleur here, getting a different chainring there.

    What will happen is that some people will eliminate certain bikes from consideration because they don't come with the group the customer wants.

    Personally, I can't really relate to this. I have bought lots of complete bikes (and many frame/fork setups) but I have not stuck with a stock setup since the 90s (I think the last bike I rode as it came out of the box must have been the Rocky Mountain Blizzard I bought in '96). Working at a shop spoiled me badly...

    I got a drivetrain setup based on SRAM x.9 nine speed in 2007 to build up a bare frame (Lenz Lev 4.0). I got a CK bottom bracket and XT 9-speed crank, I run an XTR/Dura Ace chain. I have probably been through 10 rear derailleurs (all x.9), four middle rings, a couple steel grannies, three rear trigger shifters (one was an x.0, my only drivetrain indulgence) maybe a dozen and a half chains, half a dozen 970/980/990 cassettes. The big ring is from day one. It's got half a dozen teeth gone, works fine for pulling the chain. Just hammer it straight when it gets bent. The King bottom bracket is getting rough, but it's still OK. The front shifter is fine. Front derailleurs typically had to be fitted for each new bike because they all mount differently.

    That basic setup went from the Lenz to a Voodoo Canzo (2009), then to a StumpJumper 29 (2010), then to a Tomac Diplomat (2011), then to a Giant Anthem (2013), now back to the Tomac which is my primary bike today.

    The Canzo was bare frame. The Stumpjumper came with a drivetrain of some sort, don't even remember what because it went to Craigslist. The Tomac was a bare frame. The Giant came with a Shimano SLX 2x10. I rode it with that 2x10 for a few months but found it ridiculously finicky, and didn't care for the loss of my bottom ratios.

    I say all this because it is important for you all to know: The SRAM 9 speed stuff was/is bomber. It still shifts when the hanger is a little bent, it still shifts when it's dirty or the chain is dry, shifts fine when the chain is worn. It shifts NOW. Smooth, quiet. Lots of low gears. Lots of high gears.

    I'm feeling totally retrogrouch about it because I love it as much as I loved my Shimano XT RapidFire 8-speed. I dreaded the day when that stuff would become unavailable. I was not impressed with Shimano 10 speed, and I expect to be un-impressed with both those guys' 11-speed. But that's just how we roll in retro-grouch-land.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pau11y View Post
    I just don't think I can push a 28x42 (0.666) for an hour or two...I think this is the min rec'd by Sram? But, Ethan F (Maverick Sus) told me he's running a 26x42 (0.619), which is just a touch above a 22/36 (0.611)...I might be able to do this tho.
    That's what I have Pau11y, 26x42 with a Wolftooth ring direct mount.

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    You have to consider though, with X01 that the jump between sprockets is larger, so even if you match your lowest gear, your jump to the next gear is a little bigger:

    For X01 with a 26T the top 3 sprockets are 42,36,32, so the ratios (and 29er gear inches) would be

    .619 (18)
    .722 (21)
    .813 (24)

    For 22 chainring with 11-36 the top 3 sprockets are 36,32,28 and...

    .611 (18)
    .687 (20)
    .796 (23)

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    Quote Originally Posted by TomP View Post
    I say all this because it is important for you all to know: The SRAM 9 speed stuff was/is bomber. It still shifts when the hanger is a little bent, it still shifts when it's dirty or the chain is dry, shifts fine when the chain is worn. It shifts NOW. Smooth, quiet. Lots of low gears. Lots of high gears.

    I'm feeling totally retrogrouch about it because I love it as much as I loved my Shimano XT RapidFire 8-speed. I dreaded the day when that stuff would become unavailable. I was not impressed with Shimano 10 speed, and I expect to be un-impressed with both those guys' 11-speed. But that's just how we roll in retro-grouch-land.
    These two paragraphs resonates w/ me...

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    Quote Originally Posted by smilinsteve View Post
    That's what I have Pau11y, 26x42 with a Wolftooth ring direct mount.
    So last year, I went from ~190 nekkid down to 172 (was my lightest), and now back up to ~180. This summer, I'm hoping to get down to ~high 160s. If I can, then I might be able to push the taller gear (26x42). And, I might be able to make a full XX1 work w/ just shiftie, mech, stack, and chain...which might keep the cost to just the left nut...

    But dude, my TB carries a lot more meat than yours...I mean just in tires...!

    Edit: oh wait, I guess I'd need a new drive shell too.

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    Yep, TomP just explained very eloquently why I won't be doing this type of system anytime soon... Well, somewhere between the wear characteristics and the 300-450 dollar cassettes...

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    Quote Originally Posted by TomP View Post
    I say all this because it is important for you all to know: The SRAM 9 speed stuff was/is bomber...
    I agree, and also had TWO X9 9-speed setups... still have it on my DH bike!

    Then I wanted to go 1x on my trail bike and found a stupid-good deal on a SRAM XX 10-speed setup. I think it sucked compared to the 9-speed, more finicky and shift quality was worse. More maintenance and adjustment needed.

    6 months or so ago I got a deal on the entire XX1 group that I couldn't refuse and I gotta say, this is XX1 is better than SRAM's 9-speed drivetrains!
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    I have mine setup with a 30t ring on a 27.5er and it's fine, I doubt you will have an issue with 28 x 42 gearing on you 29er. The advantages are pretty massive, if you can afford it I would do it.

    A lot of it is what you're used to, and I find I will use the lowest gear on ANY bike I'm riding on steep hills... and wish I had even lower, 'cause I'm lazy like that.
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    So, any thoughts on this: General Lee 11 42 Cassette Rear Sprockets Kit Shimano SRAM XX1 Alternative | eBay

    Might need a crank w/ a removable spider to get a proper Q w/ a single ring...?

    Edit: here's a long term review of that kit above...the 2nd version that converts a XTR stack. The above link converts a XT stack.
    General Lee Cassette Adaptor ? Long Term Test | I-MTB

  67. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pau11y View Post
    So, any thoughts on this:
    We've been doing aLOT of 42 tooth cogs on 10 speed drivetrains. You can run a 1x10 with a single ring up front and a 11-42 in back, or a 2x10 with a 42 in back (think 24x42 or 22x42 low!).

    OneUp components and a few others did this first. Basically you remove you 17tooth cog and put a 42 tooth on the back of the cassette. Not all cassettes work, and some people find the new 15 tooth to 19 tooth jump in the back a bit big so they swap the 15 for 16. And if you are running single and don't want a chain guide you should pick up a narrow/wide chainring. Worst case you are talking $200 for 42th & 16 th cog + narrow/wide chainring.

    In any case you have a 11-42. Better than the XTR setup really. At first these rings were running $100 a pop, which was steep but not too bad. Now companies like E13 and Wolftooth are jumping on board.

    We actually have a couple 1x10 stock 2014 bikes (Kona Process 111 & Giant Trance SX alloy) which we wouldn't be stocking except for the fact we can get these rings.

    It's awesome really. You get 90% of XX1 for $70 bucks ($200 worst case).
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  68. #68
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    I just checked the link on that General Lee one. It's $250. If you don't need a new cassette it seems like way too much. Check out E13, Wolftooth, OneUp and others for just the 42 tooth cog.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kaj View Post
    I just checked the link on that General Lee one. It's $250. If you don't need a new cassette it seems like way too much. Check out E13, Wolftooth, OneUp and others for just the 42 tooth cog.
    I just built this set up, wolf 42 in the rear on a 10 speed 1070 cassette,all for $190, and a direct mount (light as heck) wolf 30 up front for $80. Looks light, cheep and you can replace your most used gear (the 42) in the rear cassette instead of buying a whole new one. Cant wait to try it out, will post up results.

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    Quote Originally Posted by davec113 View Post
    A lot of it is what you're used to, and I find I will use the lowest gear on ANY bike I'm riding on steep hills... and wish I had even lower, 'cause I'm lazy like that.
    Bingo. Me too. I finally had to limit my granny gears. I tried a 22Tx32T crankset with 12-36 rear and 26" wheels. The 22x36 granny was too low. I actually couldn't clean really technical lines as I simply didn't have enough gear inches to get me up and over tech.

    Also setting up a 1x10 with a Wolftooth 42T on my AM bike.

    30T N/W up front
    27.5 wheels

    I've run 2xbash on my bikes for years. Never have missed the big ring, nor have I felt that it was 'slow' on the trail. Learned recently my cassettes were 12-36. Yes, I would spin out on pavementd... oh well.

  71. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by TomP View Post
    It's true, most riders will ride what their bike came with, and maybe tinker a little, upgrading a derailleur here, getting a different chainring there.

    What will happen is that some people will eliminate certain bikes from consideration because they don't come with the group the customer wants.

    Personally, I can't really relate to this. I have bought lots of complete bikes (and many frame/fork setups) but I have not stuck with a stock setup since the 90s (I think the last bike I rode as it came out of the box must have been the Rocky Mountain Blizzard I bought in '96). Working at a shop spoiled me badly...

    I got a drivetrain setup based on SRAM x.9 nine speed in 2007 to build up a bare frame (Lenz Lev 4.0). I got a CK bottom bracket and XT 9-speed crank, I run an XTR/Dura Ace chain. I have probably been through 10 rear derailleurs (all x.9), four middle rings, a couple steel grannies, three rear trigger shifters (one was an x.0, my only drivetrain indulgence) maybe a dozen and a half chains, half a dozen 970/980/990 cassettes. The big ring is from day one. It's got half a dozen teeth gone, works fine for pulling the chain. Just hammer it straight when it gets bent. The King bottom bracket is getting rough, but it's still OK. The front shifter is fine. Front derailleurs typically had to be fitted for each new bike because they all mount differently.

    That basic setup went from the Lenz to a Voodoo Canzo (2009), then to a StumpJumper 29 (2010), then to a Tomac Diplomat (2011), then to a Giant Anthem (2013), now back to the Tomac which is my primary bike today.

    The Canzo was bare frame. The Stumpjumper came with a drivetrain of some sort, don't even remember what because it went to Craigslist. The Tomac was a bare frame. The Giant came with a Shimano SLX 2x10. I rode it with that 2x10 for a few months but found it ridiculously finicky, and didn't care for the loss of my bottom ratios.

    I say all this because it is important for you all to know: The SRAM 9 speed stuff was/is bomber. It still shifts when the hanger is a little bent, it still shifts when it's dirty or the chain is dry, shifts fine when the chain is worn. It shifts NOW. Smooth, quiet. Lots of low gears. Lots of high gears.

    I'm feeling totally retrogrouch about it because I love it as much as I loved my Shimano XT RapidFire 8-speed. I dreaded the day when that stuff would become unavailable. I was not impressed with Shimano 10 speed, and I expect to be un-impressed with both those guys' 11-speed. But that's just how we roll in retro-grouch-land.
    I've had bikes spec'd with both Shimano XT and XTR and my latest bike came spec'd with Sram XO and as far as I'm concerned they both work fine. The drivetrain of both brands will run nice and quiet when clean, lubed and properly adjusted and will run noisy and rough when dirty and out of adjustment. One of the rear cogs on the Sram broke, literally a chunck broke off after about 400 miles which they replaced free of charge and I've had no other issues so far. Never had serious problems with the Shimano stuff other than normal wear and tear.

    People get so invested in their opinions. It's really interesting to watch them get all worked up about how X is so superior and Y just sucks.

  72. #72
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    Interesting discussion. I just got a new bike moving from the "old" 3x9 to XT 2x10. Mine is geared 24, 38 with the 11,36 in the rear. I really like it....much more simple and has almost the same range I had with my old bike. The 38, 36 is sometimes a little steep for me when climbing, but suspect as I get in better shape it will be fine for 90 percent of what I ride.

    I for one would be interested in the new 11,40 shimano just released. I only have one bike and don't think the 1x11 would work for me as an all around bike used for various types of rides.

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    I agree. I am intrigued because, for my longer marathon style races, I know I will want a smaller gear to fall back on, but I currently run a 2x10 with 38,28 rings and that 38 is good for all of the XC Racing I do, but when I go to the mountains and do a lot of climbing I would like to have that smaller gear to do this too... Shimano is giving that option. I could run 1x11 for racing and then add a 2x chainring set up and FD for Leadville and other long distance races with lots of climbing.
    Seems like a good idea to me! I've never ridden Xx1 though, So that may work just fine for me as well and just changing chainrings to suit each race type.
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    Yeah, I don't know about 'speed wars', I can't really care too much about how MANY speeds there are, but at the same time, all other things equal, (i.e. price point and mechanical,) you can't think a chain that's narrower is going to be stronger, last longer, or be easier to shift with crap all over it... Microdrive anyone?

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    Quote Originally Posted by zrm View Post
    I've had bikes spec'd with both Shimano XT and XTR and my latest bike came spec'd with Sram XO and as far as I'm concerned they both work fine. The drivetrain of both brands will run nice and quiet when clean, lubed and properly adjusted and will run noisy and rough when dirty and out of adjustment. One of the rear cogs on the Sram broke, literally a chunck broke off after about 400 miles which they replaced free of charge and I've had no other issues so far. Never had serious problems with the Shimano stuff other than normal wear and tear.

    People get so invested in their opinions. It's really interesting to watch them get all worked up about how X is so superior and Y just sucks.
    Dude, you quote my post as an example of people who should be laughed at because they think Shimano is better than SRAM or vice versa? I think what I was saying is I like my 9 speed triple. I never said it's better than Shimano's 9-speed triple, which I never had on any bike I owned (well, road bike with Ultegra 9).

    What I said was I had a 10 speed setup and found it finicky, especially when compared to my drivetrain for the last 7 years. When I had a 10-speed drivetrain I found myself hauling out my Park DAG (derailleur alignment gauge) every couple weeks because the bike was shifting funny. The hanger would be oh so barely out of alignment. Get it perfect and the bike would shift, until the next strong breeze blew on it bumping the hanger .75 mm out of alignment.

    I have no idea whether SRAM 10-11 speed would be better. Never tried it at all on anything. Never said anything about it.

    I'm a fan of stuff from both companies. I run Shimano cranks only. Mostly because they are the widest ones out there and my knees and hips appreciate that. I run Avid (SRAM) BB7 mechanicals, but if I went with hydro brakes it would be Shimano SLX or XT. I run the best available Shimano chain, regardless of what the rest of the drivetrain is.

    I'm picky and I have strongly held opinions. But they aren't based on anything other than experience. Since I've been serious about riding shifty bikes since 1974, I think maybe I'm entitled to my opinion. Go ahead and reply with something snarky and put a laughy emoticon on it, would you?
    Tom Purvis - Salida, CO - http://teamvelveeta.tom-purvis.com

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    Re: XX1 or XO1 in Colorado

    Quote Originally Posted by TomP View Post
    Dude, you quote my post as an example of people who should be laughed at because they think Shimano is better than SRAM or vice versa? I think what I was saying is I like my 9 speed triple. I never said it's better than Shimano's 9-speed triple, which I never had on any bike I owned (well, road bike with Ultegra 9).

    What I said was I had a 10 speed setup and found it finicky, especially when compared to my drivetrain for the last 7 years. When I had a 10-speed drivetrain I found myself hauling out my Park DAG (derailleur alignment gauge) every couple weeks because the bike was shifting funny. The hanger would be oh so barely out of alignment. Get it perfect and the bike would shift, until the next strong breeze blew on it bumping the hanger .75 mm out of alignment.

    I have no idea whether SRAM 10-11 speed would be better. Never tried it at all on anything. Never said anything about it.

    I'm a fan of stuff from both companies. I run Shimano cranks only. Mostly because they are the widest ones out there and my knees and hips appreciate that. I run Avid (SRAM) BB7 mechanicals, but if I went with hydro brakes it would be Shimano SLX or XT. I run the best available Shimano chain, regardless of what the rest of the drivetrain is.

    I'm picky and I have strongly held opinions. But they aren't based on anything other than experience. Since I've been serious about riding shifty bikes since 1974, I think maybe I'm entitled to my opinion. Go ahead and reply with something snarky and put a laughy emoticon on it, would you?
    Retrogrouch level: Jedi!

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    Haha! love it! Nothing beats experience!
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    What the heck are you guys riding up that would require a 26/42 gear ?
    "If you're getting chased, you don't have to be first, just don't be last!"

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    Quote Originally Posted by mtbgtr View Post
    What the heck are you guys riding up that would require a 26/42 gear ?
    I have a climb 30 minutes outside of Boulder that I need to walk more than I like, takes about an hour. 26x42 and you'll still need to walk some of it. I'm riding a 30x42, and I walk about 30% of it. There's other ways up that you don't need to walk, but sometimes I like to attack it straight on. BTW-- the descent is worth it.
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    What trail ? I'm in Monument.
    "If you're getting chased, you don't have to be first, just don't be last!"

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    There are lots of trails like this from Golden Gate Canyon to Estes headed towards the continental divide. Many don't have names, but they are steep and fun. All around Ned, Brainard and Rollins Pass. If you ride there a good bit, like I do, you want low low gears. Or you can just be frickin tough and ride a single speed like some folks do.
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    I don't doubt you. I have ridden in most of those areas. I too was a retrogrouch, til recently. But finally was willing able to upgrade from my 18yr old YBB, 24-34-46 12-32 setup to the 21st century. I started riding offroad in '74 getting my first real mtb in '82.
    "If you're getting chased, you don't have to be first, just don't be last!"

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    Quote Originally Posted by mtbgtr View Post
    What the heck are you guys riding up that would require a 26/42 gear ?
    Aren't there any "lane of pain" trails around the Springs? I'm on a 22/36, which is just a touch lower than that 26/42, and for the most part, I don't need to walk...but the last 1/4 mile of Chimney is a pretty big suck!

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    Yes there are but that's a matter of opinion also. A lot of the steep stuff around my neck of the woods its very rocky and ultra low gearing won't get me enough momentum to get over some stuff. For me, and please don't take this wrong, if I can hike it faster than spinning it, I'd rather hike it. Its the old racer in me. Now if its a pride thing I'll do it, like the very old original route up to 401 from Schofield Pass, which is gone now or certain parts of some unmarked trails up Pikes Peak.
    "If you're getting chased, you don't have to be first, just don't be last!"

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    Quote Originally Posted by zrm View Post
    Well, sure if that is a big deal to you but having shifters on both handlebars has never seemed to be much of an issue for me.
    it's not having the shifters there that is an issue, it's having to use them. And juggle between both as the need for different gears arises. It would be kinda nice to get away from that, for me.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mtbgtr View Post
    What the heck are you guys riding up that would require a 26/42 gear ?
    Climb up to the Canyon Creek Trailhead from Whitepine. Among (many) others.
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtbgtr View Post
    What the heck are you guys riding up that would require a 26/42 gear ?
    You are either a monster (NTTAWWT) or you need to get out more.









    And strangely enough... every hike-a-bike picture I have seems to include that dumb f**ker WKD-RDR.

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    Quote Originally Posted by TomP View Post
    Climb up to the Canyon Creek Trailhead from Whitepine. Among (many) others.
    Interesting you would mention that one...

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    XX1 or XO1 in Colorado

    Ahh bikewalking, a favorite pastime of mine and a close second to bikedrinking.

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    Keep in kind these guys are on long travel 29er's... With (presumably) big, high volume 2.3-2.4 tires.

    A 26T front cog is nothing. They HAVE to have a 22T with an 11-36 cassette!

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    Quote Originally Posted by TomP View Post
    Dude, you quote my post as an example of people who should be laughed at because they think Shimano is better than SRAM or vice versa? I think what I was saying is I like my 9 speed triple. I never said it's better than Shimano's 9-speed triple, which I never had on any bike I owned (well, road bike with Ultegra 9).

    What I said was I had a 10 speed setup and found it finicky, especially when compared to my drivetrain for the last 7 years. When I had a 10-speed drivetrain I found myself hauling out my Park DAG (derailleur alignment gauge) every couple weeks because the bike was shifting funny. The hanger would be oh so barely out of alignment. Get it perfect and the bike would shift, until the next strong breeze blew on it bumping the hanger .75 mm out of alignment.

    I have no idea whether SRAM 10-11 speed would be better. Never tried it at all on anything. Never said anything about it.

    I'm a fan of stuff from both companies. I run Shimano cranks only. Mostly because they are the widest ones out there and my knees and hips appreciate that. I run Avid (SRAM) BB7 mechanicals, but if I went with hydro brakes it would be Shimano SLX or XT. I run the best available Shimano chain, regardless of what the rest of the drivetrain is.

    I'm picky and I have strongly held opinions. But they aren't based on anything other than experience. Since I've been serious about riding shifty bikes since 1974, I think maybe I'm entitled to my opinion. Go ahead and reply with something snarky and put a laughy emoticon on it, would you?
    No, I was agreeing with you (and rambling a bit. I happens when you get old)

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    Quote Originally Posted by zrm View Post
    No, I was agreeing with you (and rambling a bit. I happens when you get old)

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    Quote Originally Posted by SkaredShtles View Post
    You are either a monster (NTTAWWT) or you need to get out more.

    ...
    Good answer.

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    I'm an old phart who rides a 29er, and I'm not ashamed to admit that I use--and like--my bike's 24/36 low gear (drivetrain is 24/36 with 11-36).
    GRAVELBIKE.COM - ride everything

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    Quote Originally Posted by GRAVELBIKE View Post
    I'm an old phart who rides a 29er, and I'm not ashamed to admit that I use--and like--my bike's 24/36 low gear (drivetrain is 24/36 with 11-36).
    Ha. I just switched to that to make me ride faster. I was running 22/33 with 11-36 on my XC 29er. Climbing up Mt. Falcon last night, I was wishing I still had the 22T cog up front! lol (And, at 32, I'm probably not considered an old phart...)

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    Re: XX1 or XO1 in Colorado

    Quote Originally Posted by hokiebrett View Post
    Keep in...
    A 26T front cog is nothing. They HAVE to have a 22T with an 11-36 cassette!
    I was toying w/ the idea of a OneUp 40T w/ a 2x10 and a 22T granny ring

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    Quote Originally Posted by hokiebrett View Post
    Ha. I just switched to that to make me ride faster. I was running 22/33 with 11-36 on my XC 29er. Climbing up Mt. Falcon last night, I was wishing I still had the 22T cog up front! lol (And, at 32, I'm probably not considered an old phart...)
    I'll be 52 next week. Best thing I ever did for building stamina was to start riding to work a few years ago. That, combined with longer weekend rides makes climbing on dirt a bit less taxing.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pau11y View Post
    I was toying w/ the idea of a OneUp 40T w/ a 2x10 and a 22T granny ring

    Sent from my GT-P3110 using Tapatalk
    We should have a crawl ratio contest.

    You vs. my Wrangler TJ in 4-low (2.78:1 reduction) with 4.56 gears and only 33" tires. lol

    (I can put it in first and jump out of the Jeep... and walk along side of it)

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    Quote Originally Posted by hokiebrett View Post
    We should have a crawl ratio contest.

    You vs. my Wrangler TJ in 4-low (2.78:1 reduction) with 4.56 gears and only 33" tires. lol

    (I can put it in first and jump out of the Jeep... and walk along side of it)
    If by "crawl" you mean as slow as possible, My Polar C200 often goes into sleep mode when I'm climbing...I think it stops recognizing speed at 2mph. And, since the 29ers have a BB height lower than wheel axle, I can balance on bike at a pretty low speed. Climbing Deer Creek is like an hour-long track stand

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    Quote Originally Posted by SkaredShtles View Post
    You are either a monster (NTTAWWT) or you need to get out more.










    And strangely enough... every hike-a-bike picture I have seems to include that dumb f**ker WKD-RDR.

    Where are these pics taken? They look vaguely familiar.
    "If you're getting chased, you don't have to be first, just don't be last!"

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