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  1. #1
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    XX1 or XO1 in Colorado

    Just wanted to hear some thoughts on experience with xx1 in the mountains.

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    Kaj
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    been setting most of them up with 30 tooth chain rings. People are happy with them. Here's a link to the gear comparison:

    https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...2dENPVFE#gid=0
    Kona Wo for Fat Biking, Ibis HD3 for Trail Shredding, Merckx Road bike for collecting dust in garage

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    Thanks! good to hear.

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    Quote Originally Posted by micgills View Post
    Just wanted to hear some thoughts on experience with xx1 in the mountains.
    I was using a 28t XX1 with a 10 speed type 2 XO 11-36 rear and was impressed. I beat on it and never dropped a chain. It was JUST enough gearing on a 29er, but I would have liked the 42 rear for really long climbs on all day rides. I didn't miss not having a 10t vs the 11t though--I really wish they would just come out with an 11-42 10 speed cassette that didn't need a new freewheel.

  5. #5
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    Running xx1 w/ grip shift. Dig it. 32t works good for me- although do find myself on a rare occasion looking for another climbing gear. I could see putting a 28 t on there. Sounds like some machine shops can even make a 26t due to xx1 bcd. Reasons why I'd choose xx1 over xo1. Cons obviously cost. On a superficial level gear changes occur with a clunk but no impact to performance. I have wracked the derailleur on rocks hard a few times and it hasn't crumbled- yet. It will and that's going to hurt.
    Get it - no dropped chains and singlefying drivetrain improves ride experience. Plus lose several hundred grams over your existing setup.

  6. #6
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    The difference in cost is negligible but if I were upgrading an existing bike, I'd get all the XX1 parts but the cranks, then just get a Raceface or Wolftooth ring for your existing crankset. That'll mean you are limited to a 30t as your smallest front ring, though.

    Not having a front derailleur rules. I set my wife's bike up with XX1 this year and she is ecstatic.

    -Walt
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  7. #7
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    XX1 or XO1 in Colorado

    Xx1 36 up front works great here in Colorado

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    RE: XX1 or XO1 in Colorado

    Been riding XX1 with 32 up front this whole year and loving it. Before the start of this year my longest mtb ride ever was 35 miles on a 3x9. This year I raced in the Breck 68 (70 miles 8.5k climbing). and thought xx1 was perfect.

    Do I sometimes wish I had an extra low gear? Yes, but I did on my 3x9 as well. I think you just adapt to what you have.

    The only downside is the big jump between the 10 & 12 tooth cog. It's a pretty big jump and sometimes I find myself flicking between the two. That's me being fussy though. Either way I can't see me getting a front derailleur on a new bike ever again
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    Quote Originally Posted by mbco1975 View Post
    Been riding XX1 with 32 up front this whole year and loving it. Before the start of this year my longest mtb ride ever was 35 miles on a 3x9. This year I raced in the Breck 68 (70 miles 8.5k climbing). and thought xx1 was perfect.

    Do I sometimes wish I had an extra low gear? Yes, but I did on my 3x9 as well. I think you just adapt to what you have.

    The only downside is the big jump between the 10 & 12 tooth cog. It's a pretty big jump and sometimes I find myself flicking between the two. That's me being fussy though. Either way I can't see me getting a front derailleur on a new bike ever again
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    Well that pretty much sold me. I do alot of climbing so thanks!
    what bike are you you?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Walt View Post
    The difference in cost is negligible but if I were upgrading an existing bike, I'd get all the XX1 parts but the cranks, then just get a Raceface or Wolftooth ring for your existing crankset. That'll mean you are limited to a 30t as your smallest front ring, though.

    -Walt
    +1 but slight correction: Wolf tooth makes a direct mount 28T for GXP cranks...

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    Quote Originally Posted by micgills View Post
    Well that pretty much sold me. I do alot of climbing so thanks!
    what bike are you you?
    Specialized Epic Expert.

    You might want to invest $10 in these race face boots to protect your shiny new carbon cranks

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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by ingluis View Post
    +1 but slight correction: Wolf tooth makes a direct mount 28T for GXP cranks...
    And if that isn't low enough, they are going to start shipping the 26t late next week! I am very interested in one of those (and a 36t for the resorts assuming they are fairly easy to switch out). I specifically bought X9 cranks for the new bike so I would be able to run Wolf Tooths.

  13. #13
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    not on xx1 but i have converted my casette to 11-41 with 32 front. i dont really care for 10 in the back. its great not having to care about front der. go fo it you will love it. i run race face narrow/wide ring in front, no tensioners or guides. didnt drop chain once. it is great upgrade.

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    Quote Originally Posted by kristian View Post
    And if that isn't low enough, they are going to start shipping the 26t late next week! I am very interested in one of those (and a 36t for the resorts assuming they are fairly easy to switch out). I specifically bought X9 cranks for the new bike so I would be able to run Wolf Tooths.
    Dang... my correction stands corrected.

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    XX1 or XO1 in Colorado

    Hadn't seen wolf tooth. Another correction looks like they offer 24t for direct mount gxp according to their website. $78. That'd be nice on a Fatbike.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Walt View Post
    The difference in cost is negligible but if I were upgrading an existing bike, I'd get all the XX1 parts but the cranks, then just get a Raceface or Wolftooth ring for your existing crankset.

    -Walt
    Walt, how are those RF narrow wides working with 11sp chains? Haven't tried that one yet.
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  17. #17
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    I just installed a Wolf Tooth 30. First ride this morning. Running 11-34 out back. It was awesome. Not a single dropped chain and I'm using way more of my cassette now. Need to switch to 10spd and run 11-36. Should be just about right.
    I'm here for the downhill

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by brankulo View Post
    not on xx1 but i have converted my casette to 11-41 with 32 front. i dont really care for 10 in the back. its great not having to care about front der. go fo it you will love it. i run race face narrow/wide ring in front, no tensioners or guides. didnt drop chain once. it is great upgrade.

    Brankulo is the 11 - 41 a homemade thang or where did you get it, and if ya made it is there a how too somewhere?

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    Quote Originally Posted by ironbrewer View Post
    Brankulo is the 11 - 41 a homemade thang or where did you get it, and if ya made it is there a how too somewhere?
    there are 3 ways that i know of that you can convert your cassette to high range one, depending how much you want to spend. i went the cheapest way, which was adding 42 cog from ebay to 11-36 cassette, just to see if i would like it. ended up keeping it, have been on mine for almost 8 months. total cost for me was i think $35, but i already had extra cassette that i needed for conversion. pm me if you need more details.

  20. #20
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    XX1 has worked great in and around Colorado Springs, as well as for the Leadville Silver Rush 50 last month. I started out with a 32T initially (which worked fine around town), but switched to a 30T for Leadville. I love the simplicity of this group, as well as the ease of setup and reliability so far...and man, is it quiet.

  21. #21
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    I only have a little time on one but they seem fine so far. Honestly I have had pretty good luck running just a tall-tooth unramped (ie Bling Ring) setup with the XX1. And I ride pretty rough stuff in general. So the narrow wide isn't even really mandatory IMO unless you're really hucking/shredding the Jamestown moto trails or something.

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  22. #22
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    I've had one a few weeks now. Moved on from my 1x9 setup. I'm loving it. Those two extra rings have really helped on high country stuff. I've ridden copper to Kokomo, two elks, some local stuff and today pikes peak. No chain problems. It's nice to stay in my 1x9 mentality around town and have those two extra rings to sit and spin in on altitude stuff.

    Rode w a couple friends today both running xx1. One had a 28t on a trek carbon full suspension and another had a 30t on a Bronson. They were both shredding really technical stuff and liked the setups.

    The guy w the Bronson broke a chain on a local ride previously. Hasn't had a problem since. The trek was acting up missing shifts and shifting by itself but once we adjusted it on the trail it was fine. It's a setup you'll have to keep up on cause replacing parts is not cheap but it seems to be a pretty ideal range for my riding. I'm really digging it.

  23. #23
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    awesome info. not sure what I will buy may just base that decision on price. could just go a mix of xt - xtr and save a few hundred. At this point I am thinking pivot mach 6 or bronson for these components. I guess you can't really go wrong no matter what I do.

    I am demoing a bronson now but got to wait until the mach 6 comes so I can at least throw a leg over one. Ughh hardest part is waiting; the longer I wait the more justifying I have.

  24. #24
    zrm
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    The problem with this set up is you'll loose top end gears. If you don't mind spinning out at <20mph then you should be OK.

  25. #25
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    I don't know man...I haven't had any issues reaching 20+ MPH when in the 10T in the back. I could see it being an issue if you spend a lot of time on the road, etc to transition to and from trails, but on the trail, not at all. With the rocks, climbs, switchbacks, etc, how often are you really using anything smaller than 18T? I'm sure some might, but unless I'm descending, I know I'm not.

    With how easy (maybe not cheap) it is to swap the rings up front, you can quickly tailor the system for the conditions that you'll be riding in. Most people I know check at least tires, chain, etc, before riding. Swapping an XX1 chain ring would add less than 5 minutes to that process. I've typically been running a 32T here in Colorado Springs, but switch to a 30 for places like Leadville, etc. I would even consider a 34T for here in town, but my frame is limited to a 32T.

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    HAd you done Leadville on a 2x10 at all? I am on the fence and either want to go XX1 or full XTR with Specialized cranks. Either way I am wanting to upgrade, but love the simplicity of XX1. Do you miss the smaller shifting differences you get when you're in the small ring? For me i find it helps me find the perfect gear, don't know if i'll miss that though.

  27. #27
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    I did the Leadville Silver Rush 50 in 2012 using 2x10, and XX1 in 2013. The only difference that I noticed, was that I was fatter and slower. I didn't notice an advantage or deficiency using either, except XX1 is simpler and I only had to worry about one shifter. I'm not the brightest bulb on the tree, so less thought when exhausted was nice.

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by chrisgardner73 View Post
    I did the Leadville Silver Rush 50 in 2012 using 2x10, and XX1 in 2013. The only difference that I noticed, was that I was fatter and slower. I didn't notice an advantage or deficiency using either, except XX1 is simpler and I only had to worry about one shifter. I'm not the brightest bulb on the tree, so less thought when exhausted was nice.


    Ya i don't think it would really matter to me. I just wish there was a way to demo the group before buying it. That would be nice haha
    If only...

  29. #29
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    Single chainring perhaps an option out here in CO for the pv$$ies among us (I'm looking at ME, Chief):

    42 Tooth Cog for 10 Speed from OneUp - NSMB.com Mountain Bike Reviews, News, Photo and Video

  30. #30
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    How old are you guys who are running 1x11? I'll be 50 shortly and I am fit, but I am still running 3x9 and 3x10 for fear of these old knees running out of gears in the hills.

  31. #31
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    Don't think in terms of single/double/triple. Break it down to numbers:

    easiest gear triple/10sp is 22/36=.61111
    easiest gear XX1 is 28/42 = .6666667
    #2 easiest gear on a 3x10 would be 22/32=.6785

    therfore, your easiest gear with XX1 is going to feel like somewhere between your #1 and #2 cog while in a 22 granny. Not really a huge difference.

    BUT - if you focus on this side of the gear range, you're going to give up some on the top end, as 42/11=3.82 and 28/10=2.8.

    I've been using a 1x11 XO1 setup since October. I've got a 30t on it. At first ride, I could tell I gave up a wee tad on climbing but it's gone now. I've given up so much on the top end, though, that I think I'd appreciate having a 32 on there and giving up a little on the easy side.
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    Bumping an older thread here... I just got a SC Bronson C with the XO1 kit for use as my one-bike quiver in the Front Range, everything from rolling XC to chunky AM (and perhaps the occasional trip to Trestle for lift served downhill, though that's rare). I was a bit nervous about the 1X11 setup. I'm a decent climber but not a rocket - a little on the heavy side and my level of fitness varies depending on how much I'm getting out.

    After three rides, so far I'm impressed but feeling like the stock 34t chainring is probably a little much for me on the longer climbs. I made it up Hello Kitty (at Buff Creek) last weekend without walking or too much resting, but it was more effort than I'd like. On the downhills, the top gear was fine for me - I used it for the dirt road at the end but never felt like I needed another one. I just ordered a 30t ring and intend to try that one out this weekend - my guess is it'll solve the uphill dilemma but I'll end up missing the top gears on the runouts.

    I'll report back when I've got more data.

  33. #33
    zrm
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    Bottom line is you're going to give up something on either the bottom or top end for a weight savings.

  34. #34
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    I'm running a 26" Mojo HDR with a 32t and feel it's just right. I do wish for a bit more top end at times but it's not common.

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by zrm View Post
    Bottom line is you're going to give up something on either the bottom or top end for a weight savings.
    Not just weight savings, IMHO. I also notice the ease of use (no thinking about a front derailleur) and the incredibly quiet and smooth action. But your point is well taken - it's not a free lunch, you definitely have to give something up. It's just a question of whether what you gain is worth what you give up.

  36. #36
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    I have been running the 32t X01 from the start with my 5010 that i purchased a few months ago. I came off of an 8-speed 24-34-46 / 12-32 and I agree about the top end but I am not missing it much. The 32/42 on the X01 matches mt 24/32 almost exactly so I am missing nothing on the low end. I haven't drop a chain or missed a shift yet.
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  37. #37
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    I have been looking at the new XTR quite a bit and it may be a better use of the gear range than xx1. There isnt the weight savings, but the small loss in rotational weight is going to be fairly insignificant. A 26t chain ring is not exactly heavy...
    I'm debating whether I may want to give the XTR a whirl or not.
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  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jkon View Post
    Not just weight savings, IMHO. I also notice the ease of use (no thinking about a front derailleur) and the incredibly quiet and smooth action. But your point is well taken - it's not a free lunch, you definitely have to give something up. It's just a question of whether what you gain is worth what you give up.
    Agreed
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  39. #39
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    XX1 or XO1 in Colorado

    I spent 5 days in CB last summer running XX1 on my Bronson, did all the big rides from town and it ended up being ok. I have a 32 on mine. I think if your fit it's fine, for the long distance stuff u just need to settle in and get through the big climbs.

  40. #40
    zrm
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jkon View Post
    Not just weight savings, IMHO. I also notice the ease of use (no thinking about a front derailleur) and the incredibly quiet and smooth action. But your point is well taken - it's not a free lunch, you definitely have to give something up. It's just a question of whether what you gain is worth what you give up.
    Well, sure if that is a big deal to you but having shifters on both handlebars has never seemed to be much of an issue for me.

  41. #41
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    I'm running 32t xo1 on a Bronson C and loving it. At first I thought of going to a 30t but sucked it up and got a little stronger so the 32 is perfect now. I really like how it freed up space on my bars to move my dropper control to where the front shifter was. I agree with what others have said, don't see myself ever having a front derailer again.

  42. #42
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    I agree with what others have said, don't see myself ever having a front derailer again.
    Amen brother.

    I'm on a T-29 and am not a super fit racer boy. I've got a 32 up front and it's fine for all my front range climbs, the toughest sections are tough, but still ridable. I feel like the 32 would be a bit high somewhere like CB where you cimb for an hour or two, unless I was fit which is incentive to get fit, while a 30 would be great for where I am right now.

    There are very few places on my everyday rides where I spin out and wish I had a bigger gear and those places are always dirt or paved roads and since I'm not racing DH, I could care less. I'll happily trade that for lower gearing.

    Pros - It's silent, it's lighter, it works well and doesn't drop chains. It's essentially invisible like any good piece of gear.

    Cons - $@!!Q)&%4!! expensive.

    Once the price comes down significantly, 1 X whatever will take over the world.

  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by zrm View Post
    Well, sure if that is a big deal to you but having shifters on both handlebars has never seemed to be much of an issue for me.
    +1

    Retrogrouch here. I like the ease of use of being able to spin an easy gear when I'm climbing 10% grades for hours at a time. Guess I'm a little backward...

    I think this is really like the typical "what gear should I use on my singlespeed?" thread. Depends on how tough you are, how hard or easy it is for you to push big gears, and whether you are OK with working hard.

    As a disclaimer, and as bacon boy will surely point out, I am old. Also, slow, fat, and exceedingly lazy. I find shifting a front derailleur easier than grinding away with a 30 gear/inch gear up a jeep road.

    But like any real-world retrogrouch, I have enough experience to know that it's very likely that I'll be eating those words eventually. Fifteen years ago I said that disc brakes were irrelevant in a dry climate. 12 years ago I said that 8-speed was what I would ride forever because 9 speed would never be durable enough. Etc.
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  44. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kaj View Post
    been setting most of them up with 30 tooth chain rings. People are happy with them. Here's a link to the gear comparison:

    https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...2dENPVFE#gid=0
    Might I ask which wheel size?

    Last weekend in GJ/Fruita I ran 650b wheels/tires with a 30T front and 11-36T rear. Wanted a way to 'feel' see what X01 (or 10spd 11-42T) with a 34T upfront would feel like. I found a few times where I wanted a lower gear or two.

    Thinking 30T 11-42T will be good for a 6" 27.5 aggressive trail/AM bike.

  45. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by TomP View Post
    +1

    Retrogrouch here.
    Me too

    I am old. Also, slow, fat, and exceedingly lazy.
    Me too. Which is why I have a 26T chainring on my X01. 26x42 is almost equivalent to a 22x36 typical low gear on a 3X, 29er set up, which is what I need. So far, I don't really care about losing gears on the high end.


    Fifteen years ago I said that disc brakes were irrelevant in a dry climate. 12 years ago I said that 8-speed was what I would ride forever because 9 speed would never be durable enough. Etc.
    Me too. I still say some of that crazy sh*t.

  46. #46
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    My trail bike is a pretty big travel 29er (160/150 ft/rr) that comes in at ~30lbs despite it having a pretty significant carbon footprint. So here's a bit of an interesting take on the 1x??...almost specifically for the bigger travel (and heavier) 29ers. I think I may have to stick w/ a 2x?? because I have crappy knees.

    Grannygear’s notes for the unveiling:

    It was an interesting presentation that Shimano gave us at Sea Otter while we ate some great food and drank ‘adult beverages’, etc. I was impressed by the engineering approach they took in reconsidering how different riders and different bikes have different gearing needs. The rush to the double crank left some biiiig gaps in gearing and the present 1×11 system only added to that. So while the Shimano 11 spd approach is only an 11-40 cassette, they are looking at it as a XC race set-up, not a trail bike deal. Trail bikes deserve wider and deeper gearing and the way they look at it, they deserve a double crank at least. And the thought of a return to triple cranks, although I want to run away and hide from that, makes a lot of sense to get a truly functional gearing approach. According to Shimano, we lost our efficient “drive gear”. I agree. And I do not always agree with Shimano. So pay attention. Who knows when this will happen again!

    To explain a bit, remember when we all rode triple cranks and 26″ wheels? I used to wear out the middle ring three to one over the granny and I hardly ever replaced the outer ring unless I had bashed it to death. A 32T middle cog was good for 75% (just to toss out a number) of the riding. The granny ring (a 22T) was great for longer, steeper climbs and the big ring was for the obvious fast DH and cruising home on pave’. But that middle ring was the ‘driving gear’ where you spent most of your time.

    A 36/22 on 29er has no such ‘driving gear’ in my neck of the woods. It just does not work out that way. A 30T middle ring would bring that driving gear back, but at the expense of a triple ring price tag. Interesting. I want it but I don’t want it. I do LOVE the idea of running a 26/38 double crank and having that 40T cog, giving me both bigger chain rings and a decent low gear. And, if I really need to torque along, a 24×40 is pretty darn low and would be good for anything I have around here, even on a bigger 29er trail bike.

    It is a different, but well reasoned approach that differs from what I have seen the current SRAM 1x system most often applied to, that being trail/AM bikes. Shimano does not always do what the market is calling for. It took them too long to give us 29″er-deep gearing on cranks for example, and let’s forget about Rapid Rise, shall we? But this had me looking at gearing in a way I had come to, well, forsake, for lack of a better word, as gearing has gone from close ratios/more options/more flexibility to wider gaps/less options/less flexibility and so on.

    Perhaps this is a return to greater practicality and when this trickles down to the everyman level of XT/SLX, as we assume it will, it will be interesting to see how it is embraced by riders.

    Full article: Shimano Announces New 11spd XTR M9000
    Naysayers never apologize. Critics go to their grave thinking everyone else is wrong.
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    Quote Originally Posted by TomP View Post
    +1

    Retrogrouch here. I like the ease of use of being able to spin an easy gear when I'm climbing 10% grades for hours at a time. Guess I'm a little backward..
    For my XC/All Day Epic 29er rig, I've definitely decided that I prefer 2x10 with a 24/36 (or 22/33 for Uber climbing). Like... climbing back up to Kenosha pass after spending all morning getting up/down Georgia pass.

    On flow trails with quick, steep & punchy ascents (like GJ/Fruita) find it easier to keep the cassette in the 3rd or 4th gear and just 'toggle' (for lack of a better term) back and forth between the two rings.

    For the AM bike, I think 1x is cool. But, to be perfectly honest, the only reason I went 1x on my AM bike is I needed a new (direct mount) FD to go 2x on my new frame... And I'd rather buy a Wolftooth 42 GC than a Sram/Shimano Front D (I have like 3 front D's sitting in the parts bin).

  48. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tyrich88 View Post
    I'm debating whether I may want to give the XTR a whirl or not.
    The XTR 11-40 is definitely geared to those who want a 2x11 set up. They have 2 racer oriented cranks 26-36 & 28-38, and one trail oriented 24-34.

    In the 1x11 set up, I'm not sure who it's geared too. If you run a 30 or 32 or 34 like most are doing with XX1, you give up a little bit on the low end with not having a 42 tooth. But on the high end you give up about 10% more without have the 10 tooth. My guess is those who want XTR shifting and a 1x11 will want to do so using a XX1 cassette.

    btw: puns intended
    Kona Wo for Fat Biking, Ibis HD3 for Trail Shredding, Merckx Road bike for collecting dust in garage

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    Kaj

    you referenced 30T X01 for the Front Range... what wheel size are you primarily setting up?

  50. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by hokiebrett View Post
    Kaj

    you referenced 30T X01 for the Front Range... what wheel size are you primarily setting up?
    We're doing it both for 29 and 27.5. I think that works out as most 29ers we are selling are 120mm travel or less, and most 27.5's are 130mm travel or more. So the 29ers riders are happier with a little taller gear.
    Kona Wo for Fat Biking, Ibis HD3 for Trail Shredding, Merckx Road bike for collecting dust in garage

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